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Terri's Trails
Terri's Trails

Terri's Trails

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    A new eucalyptus farmLarge group of Spanish pilgrims in hi-viz vests reminiscent of the Fátima pilgrimsThe valley was really beautifulMy room in the guesthouse

    Camino Portuguese Part II - Day One

    30. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Ponte de Lima to Labruja
    ~9.75 km/6 miles

    Since I took the bus to Ponte de Lima instead of walking I was able to split my planned 27.6 km day into two walking days. Today's walk was very short.

    I had booked a guest house in Labruja and though I wanted to get a fairly early start to beat the heat I was worried that I would get there too early. But I sent the owner a WhatsApp message around 9 am asking if I could leave my backpack until my room was ready. She responded promptly that I was welcome to come in whenever I got there, and that my room was already ready.

    There was quite a bit of elevation gain over the 9.75 km, so I was happy that I was walking before the day heated up.

    It was a really nice walk through a lush green valley.

    When I arrived at the guesthouse there were signs directing me to the back door, which was open. No one was home, so I didn't know which room was mine, so I sent the owner another message, and she told me that I could choose any of the three guest rooms. So I picked the room with the prettiest bed. 😊

    After a shower and washing my clothes I decided to set out for the only place to eat in the area - a small store/café which was about 20 minutes away.

    On the way there I had to cross a small stream on a suspension bridge, and I noticed some trails down by the stream. After my lunch of a ham and cheese sandwich, chips, and a Coke I decided to explore the trails on my way back. I discovered that there was a small "Ecovia" along the stream, and like the Route of Stone and Water there were old watermills on either side.

    It was getting pretty hot again, so I was glad that I was able to explore the area without my backpack.

    It seemed that I might be the only guest at the house that day until about 5 pm, when Julie, a young German woman arrived. I was happy to have the company! Our hostess made us a dinner of steak, fried egg, plain spaghetti noodles, and salad. I smooshed my egg into my pasta and topped it with parmesan cheese, which tasted quite good.    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    I love all the statues and other public art that you find in Portugal & Spain. Even in small townsI had a really nice room, with great air conditioning!

    Camino Part II Ponte de Lima

    29. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    I had originally planned to walk from Braga to Ponte de Lima over two days, but with the heatwave going on I decided to take the bus there so I could shorten my initial days of this second part of my Camino.

    When I walked the Central Route of the Camino Portuguese in 2019 it was kind of a rushed trip, and one of the places that I wasn't able to fully appreciate was Ponte de Lima, so I decided that it would be the starting point of Part II.

    As I was walking to the bus station in Braga around noon I spotted a pharmacy thermometer that read 37C, which is 97F! I was glad that I had changed my plans and wasn't walking.

    Unfortunately, it was too hot to get out and explore much in Ponte de Lima.    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    1
    3This is an aerial view that I found onlineAt the bottom of the hill was a bus stop where I got the bus back to town.

    More from Braga

    28. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    I took a Bolt car to visit the Santuário do Bom Jesus do Monte which was a little bit out of the city, and we'll worth the visit, even in the heat - it was at least 95F today.

    The Santuário is located in a beautiful park on the slopes of Mount Espinho.

    There's a small lake, walkways, and a man made grotto, but the star of the show is the church, or more specifically, the series of stairs leading up to it.

    My driver dropped me off at the top so I didn't have to scale the 573 steps up in the heat. Though I could have taken the funicular if I had been dropped off at the bottom.

    I did walk down, and took pictures at each landing.

    After descending the stairs there was a very pretty walkway (fortunately with a lot of shade). Along the walkway were some small buildings, which I finally realized we're chapels. Within each one was a biblical scene.    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    6

    Santiago

    27. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    A couple of others that I met early on while walking from Lisbon arrived today. I met both Kristina from Slovakia (I met her on day two) and Cliff from Australia on the plaza.

    Angie, Jzionna and I took a few pics in front of the Cathedral.

    Dinner at La Galiciana again, because it's a perfect place for a group - especially when you don't know how many will show up.    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    11151

    Camino Day 30 - Santiago!

    26. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Areal to Santiago
    ~15.76 km/9.8 miles

    I'm still playing catch up on the blog - I'm writing a week after the fact.

    I have these nifty new sleep earbuds that allow me to set an alarm that only sounds in my ears. I set it for 6:30 so that I'd be ready to go when Jzionna got here from Padrón. I also set a back up alarm for 7:00 on my phone. Typically, I wake up before my alarm, so I was a bit "alarmed" when I heard my phone alarm going off at 7. What happened to my ear bud alarm? It turned out that I had accidentally set it for 6:30 PM not AM. 🤦‍♀️

    After finding my phone which was tangled up in my sheets I saw that Jzionna had left me several messages. She had left at 5:30, meaning that she would be there any minute!

    I scrambled to get packed as quickly as possible, and just as I was finishing up Jzionna appeared outside my window.

    It was great to walk my final day into Santiago with a friend, and we arrived to the plaza in front of the Cathedral just as the bells rang out noon.

    After taking the requisite photos in front of the Cathedral we went off to our separate accommodations.

    Later in the day we met up with Angie, another friend from home who I'd also met in Coimbra. And in the evening we had dinner with a few of my Camino friends who I hadn't seen in about a week, and some of their friends too. We met at Mercado La Galiciana - a large building that houses a variety of restaurants, like an upscale food court.    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    My South Korean friend who I'd met about a week after I started from Lisbon was on my boat.
    Maneuvering through a street market in Padrón really slowed me down!11Getting closer!

    Camino Day 29

    25. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Vilanova de Arousa to Areal
    ~28 km/17 miles by boat & ~13 km/8 miles walking

    My last day on the Spiritual Variant. It was strange, because instead of waking up and walking I had to wait to take the boat at 10:30. It was a large boat, that held 100+ passengers, so it took a bit of time to get everyone on board and our backpacks stored below deck. We finally took off at around 11. Though the captain said that the trip would be about 1.5 hours, it was actually closer to 2 hours before I was on land again and could start walking. I got to the guesthouse I had booked at about 4:00, after stopping for lunch of grilled chicken and French fries.

    Dinner was offered at my accommodation, which ended up being another round of chicken)(but baked this time) and French fries.

    Then I set my alarm for 6:30 so I'd be up in time to meet Jzionna, my friend from home who would start walking early from Padrón so that we could walk into Santiago together.    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    1
    2

    Camino Day 28

    24. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Os Castaños to Vilanova de Arousa
    ~17.2 km/10.7 miles

    My stay at Hostal Os Castaños included breakfast, so I got a later start than normal because breakfast started at 8. Often the included breakfasts aren't worth waiting for, but today's was good - toast, egg, ham, fruit, and fresh orange juice. I gave my coffee to the South African couple that I sat with, as they were I need of mire caffeine than me.

    Fortunately, the walk today wasn't long nor strenuous, or I would have skipped the breakfast in favor of an early start.

    I walked along the river and past vineyards, where the vines are elevated off the ground on roof like trellises. According to Google's AI "Elevating the vines allows for better aeration, sun exposure, and reduced moisture, which helps mitigate the risk of fungal diseases and pests common in the region's wet, oceanic climate."    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    21

    Camino Day 27

    23. maj 2025, Spanien

    Combarro to Os Castaños
    ~16 km/10 miles

    I'm playing catch up on the blog. I'm writing this a week later.

    This was an absolutely beautiful walk - one of the top five days on any Camino.

    After a steep climb out of Combarro I continued uphill, but at a more moderate grade, then downhill to Armenteira. There were some pretty views down onto Combarro and the pretty inlet that it sits on. I didn't see another soul on the trail all morning.

    After a quick look at the monastery in Armenteira I continued on, excited for the next part called La Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua (The Route of Stone and Water). I was not disappointed. It was 8 tree shaded kilometers along the Armenteira River with multiple waterfalls. Along the way there are 12 old water mills that have been restored. I was really happy that I had planned a short walking day so that I coukd take my time and really enjoy it.

    I arrived at my accommodation. Hostal Os Castaños in the early afternoon, and had a yummy salad with chicken, apples, and peppers. After I ordered three women from Tennessee arrived, and we talked a bit.

    For dinner I went to a little snack bar/café type place and had a surprisingly good pizza while I chatted with a South African couple.    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    4
    12A really looooong horreo!3My tiny, and somewhat tacky room in Combarro. But at 35€ with my own bath I'm not complaining!2Really good salad with scallops and shrimpCombarro is a cute, but very touristy town1This town is horreo central!

    Camino Day 26

    22. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Arcade to Combarro
    ~24 km/15 miles

    Started on the "Spiritual Variant" of the Camino today. I didn't spend much time in Pontevedra because my plan is to come back through here in about 10 days, for Part II of this Camino.Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    21Phone booth turned into a little library1Bread delivery "mailbox"1Robot waiter2

    Camino Day 25

    21. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Vigo to Arcade
    ~23.3 km/14.5 miles

    I got a early start because I knew that there were some big hills ahead, and I encountered the first ones as I was leaving the city. But the views of the harbor in the morning were well worth the effort.

    I passed through Redondela where the Central and Coastal routes merge, and suddenly there were lots more pilgrims on the trail - and some more hills to climb!

    I think that I was the first to arrive to my albergue at 12:30 - at least I was the first to take a shower.

    After making up my bed with the provided sheets and blankets I went for lunch at a cute restaurant I had read about on the Wise Pilgrim app. They had a huge assortment of burgers and sandwiches, but the really cute thing was being served by a robot. Unfortunately, it turned away so fast after delivering my burger that I didn't get a good picture of it. After I picked my plate off of it a cartoon cat face was on the screen. You can see video of it on Google Maps here:
    https://maps.app.goo.gl/qUVCD9NqvzqAJrtt6?g_st=ac    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    I Googled the name of this ship, and learned that it is a ship that transports cars
    Busy pedestrian streetOld, but spacious roomView from my balconyBalcony off of my room

    Camino Day 24

    20. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Nigrán to Vigo
    ~17 km/10.5 miles

    Sorry, I got tired of writing, but here are pictures from the day.

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    3Glass Beach - small beach full of sea glass. Not too sunny, so nothing really sparkle1Glass Beach1Baiona1First tortilla of the Camino. Just fair. I rate it 5/103Yummy crepe with smoked salmon, spinach, and brie

    Camino Day 23

    19. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Porto Mougás to Nigrán
    ~24 km/15 miles

    According to booking.com I couldn't check in to my albergue until 4 pm, so I didn't rush getting started.

    I decided not to take the official Camino route because I wanted to see the "Glass Beach" which is covered with sea glass.

    While the official route went inland, I stayed along the coast all day. The route was mostly along the road, but there's a wide cycling/pedestrian walkway.    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    First Galician Camino marker
    A bag piper (for photo ops and €) Welcome to Galicia!1View from my room1Swordfish dinnerMy roomDeluxe wall mounted trash can 😂1Clothes drying greenhouse

    Camino Day 22

    18. maj 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Caminha to Porto Mougás
    ~24 km/15.5 miles

    I'm writing this almost a week later as I slowly catch up on this blog.

    On this day I took the boat to cross over the estuary into Spain. The boat left around 7:45, and by the time we landed about 15 minutes later it was already 9:00! Spain is one hour ahead.

    The coast seems more rugged here, and it was gray with clouds that threatened rain, but didn't really deliver.

    I got a private room with bath with a nice view of the ocean at the albergue for only 10€ more than a bunk bed in the dorm. The tiny bathroom was so tight that I had to sit kind of sideways to use the toilet. The wall mounted trash can was much more convenient than one of those tiny step on trash cans, just less classy looking. 😅

    The albergue had the best area for drying clothes that I've seen - clotheslines set up in a huge, mostly empty greenhouse.

    There was also a restaurant on the property where I enjoyed a good swordfish dinner.    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    My feet got really tired of walking on these rocks!4Really nice path through a forestThere are lilies growing wild everywhereMore lilies!11My albergueTown Square in Caminha

    Camino Day 21

    17. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Viana do Castelo to Caminha
    ~30.5km/19 miles

    I started out on the official Coastal route that is a bit inland, but after walking several kms on an extremely rocky road, and encountering crowds of other pilgrims, I went down to the Litoral route, closer to the ocean. Although it was a little longer, it was much nicer.Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    A pile of stones for paving the roadThere were lots of churches on the way todayThe funicular1

    Camino Day 20

    16. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Esposende to Viana do Castelo
    ~25.3 km/15.75 miles

    Note - I am writing this many days late, so my memories have faded.

    This was Kelly's last day on the Camino, and we mostly walked inland, with more ups and downs than in previous days.

    Upon approaching Viana do Castelo you can't help but notice the beautiful church way above the town. Rather than adding one more hill to my walk I took the funicular up yo the top. The views up there were stunning.

    A group of us went out for dinner and I had an amazing salad (sorry no picture) and chocolate cake with ice cream for dessert.

    I was sad to say goodbye to Kelly, she has been a great Camino friend, but I'm looking forward to what comes next.    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    1
    1Kite surfers2Great salad/grain bowl for dinnerThis dessert was called a brownie, but it was likr a meringue with chocolate ganache

    Camino Day 19

    15. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Vila do Conde to Esposende
    ~24 km/15 miles

    Note - I am writing this many days late, so my memories have faded.

    Not long after leaving Vila do Conde we checked the map to see how far we had to walk, only to discover that we had accidentally booked a place that was 8 km farther from Esposende!

    We did some quick searching on booking.com and found a hotel with two beds for about 20€ more. I think that I could have walked he additional 8 km, but Kelly wasn't having it. She called the first place that we had booked (on her account) , and they advised that she request cancelation with a full refund. Later on in the day she discovered that the request had been granted. Whew!    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende

    I'm completely behind on the blog...

    14. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 59 °F

    I'll try to catch up soon

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    1
    Hostel building1There were some beautiful buildings in Vila do Conde

    Camino Day 18

    14. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Matosinhos to Vila do Conde
    ~23 km/14.3 miles

    Note - I am writing this many days late, so my memories have faded.

    Today I walked past the jetty where I fell and broke my wrist in 2022. It was much longer than I remembered! I searched for the beach bar that called the ambulance for me to thank them, but there were quite a few and none of them looked the way that I remembered.

    The day started with some breakfast at a bakery with an abundant assortment of yumminess.

    Most of the day was spent walking on boardwalks along the ocean in perfect weather.

    I slept at the Pousada de Juventud, which is a very well run hostel. I was somewhat annoyed when the other women in my room insisted that the skylight window which I had opened earlier in the day to let in fresh air be completely closed, lest one of them feel a draft and get sick. 🙄

    After dipping our toes in the ocean Kelly and I headed to Lidl to procure a couple of frozen meals and desserts for dinner, which we enjoyed in the hotel's lovely dining room.    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    1Cork tree

    Camino Day 17

    13. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Grijó to Matosinhos
    ~26 km/16 miles

    Note - I am writing this many days late, so my memories have faded.

    The walk between Grijó and Porto was tougher and prettier than I had expected. There were some beautiful wooded areas with some hills to climb.

    As I got closer to Porto I caught up with Jaewoong, a South Korean man who had stayed in many of the same places as I had. We walked across the bridge into Porto together, then headed to the Cathedral where Kelly was waiting.

    After getting some pasteis de nata fresh from the oven Kelly and I said goodbye to Jaewoong and went for lunch.

    Then it was a nice walk along the Douro River, then a right turn up the coast when we got to the Atlantic.

    After checking into our respective hostels we went to a tour of the Pinhais Sardine Factory. Unfortunately, the catch that day hadn't been good, so the company didn't have any fish to process. Instead, the workers were packaging tins that had been already processed. Part of the tour was learning how to properly label a tin of sardines. Then the best part - sampling them. By that point I was pretty exhausted, so after some dessert and sangria I went to my hostel and bed.    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    1
    First horreo sighting. The horreos in Portugal are much more basic than those in Galicia.1

    Camino Day 16

    12. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    São João da Madeira to Grijó
    ~19 km/12 miles

    Note - I am writing this many days late, so my memories have faded.

    Kelly took the bus to Porto so that she could spend more time there, so I walked alone today. We will meet up tomorrow.

    The municipal albergue where I'm staying has several rooms with just a single bunk bed, so we three of us had our own rooms. There were only five of us staying here.

    It was rainy, and there weren't really any good places to eat within walking distance, so three of us took an Uber a few kilometers away to join the rest of the group I have been having dinner with most nights.    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    A sign reminding drivers that it's "pilgrim season"
    No train station, so this was set up to board the train121

    Camino Day 15

    11. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    Albergaria-a-Nova to São João da Madeira
    ~22 km/13.7 miles

    Today marked the first day of new territory for me on this route. In 2022 I tested positive for Covid while I was in this area, and isolated in a nearby town for 6 days before taking a train to Porto.

    I left my albergue and walked about 40 minutes to the albergue where Kelly was staying. After helping Omar, a pilgrim we had met in Águeda with some tech issues we set out.

    We enjoyed really good weather for walking. No rain, and not hot.

    The big excitement was a bicycle race that passed us by.

    I was surprised by how large São João da Madeira is after being in so many tiny towns where everything is closed on Sundays. It was very different in São João. Several large grocery stores and a mall were all open and busy.

    I had booked a studio apartment for me and Kelly which was really nice and very new. Apparently Omar's initial plans for the day were too ambitious, and he messaged me for help finding a place. Fortunately, there was one room left for him.

    Our friends Cliff and José were in the building next door, and made reservations for our group at a Chinese buffet restaurant with a HUGE variety of dishes. There were the standard rice and noodle dishes plus an area where you could choose meat, seafood, veggie stand noodles to be cooked in a wok. At one end of the buffet were dozens of sushi rolls. Then there was fresh fruits and a huge choice of desserts.    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    111

    Camino Day 14

    10. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Águeda to Albergaria-a-Nova
    ~23 km/14.3 miles

    Two weeks completed! A short time period that feels so much longer because of everything place I've been and every person I've met.

    Not too many photos today. I walked with Kelly today, and we also ran into others we have met along the way. Mostly walking through small towns with fornerly grand old homes.

    We also passed through the larger town of Albergaria-a-Velha which was quite nice.

    I stayed in a very nice private room with shared bath at albergue. There were only four of us staying in the entire place. Katy from France and Kristina from Slovakia in the dorm. Peter from the Netherlands and me in private rooms.

    We went to dinner at a restaurant called Há Leitão, which roughly translates as There is Suckling Pig, a dish that this region is known for. From the outside the restaurant looked all but abandoned, as did the other businesses on this street.

    I hadn't had the suckling pig yet while in this area, and luckily there were two servings left that day. In addition to our main dishes we also had vegetable soup, salad, rice and French fries. Wine was served in a rustic clay pitcher. The owner brought us sliced fresh strawberries and a glass of port wine homemade by his friend.

    The national championship football (soccer) game was on TV, and we all cheered when the owner's favored team scored. As he was serving us he always had one eye on the game.    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    Breakfast buffet
    1Fátima shrine in the front yard of a homeSantiago symbolsEmergency station for Fátima pilgrimsPatio at the albergueMy room1More "trash art" by Bordalo II

    Camino Day 13

    9. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Curia to Águeda
    ~21.5 km/13.4 miles

     After a buffet breakfast with assorted pastries and bread, meat, cheeses, fruit, etc. we left the hotel and rejoined the Camino about 4 km from Curia.

    The day started out sunny, but we soon saw dark clouds, and there was quite a downpour as we stood partially sheltered by tress on the side of a busy road.

    Most of the day was spent walking on asphalt and dodging raindrops. We both had reservations at Residencial Celeste/Albergue de Peregrinos San António. Kelly was in the dorms, and I had a private room. Unfortunately, not as luxurious as the day before.

    A lot of other people we had met previously were also staying there, and we made some new friends. A group of 8 of us enjoyed dinner together in town.    Læs mere

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  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Rejsende
    So many headed to Fátima! We saw many groups like this.3Entrance to our hotelLittle castle on hotel groundsThe hotel's exterior was quite impressiveOur room1My roast chicken dinner

    Camino Day 12

    8. maj 2025, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Coimbra to Curia
    ~29 km/18 miles

    Today was a pretty long day - fortunately, it was overcast and fairly cool.

    Because of the thousands of pilgrims heading to Fátima accommodations were in short supply. So Kelly and I booked a hotel in a town slightly off the Camino. We were very surprised to find out that it was at a 126 year old spa/resort. The place had obviously seen better days, but retained much of its grandeur.

    Our large comfortable room was fitted with three beds, and a bathroom that you could ballroom dance in.

    On the grounds were a small lake with beautifully colored ducks, paddle boats, tennis courts, and a children's playground. But all a bit worn around the edges.    Læs mere

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