Camino 2023

May - June 2023
A 50-day adventure by Terri's Trails Read more
  • 47footprints
  • 2countries
  • 50days
  • 527photos
  • 8videos
  • 914miles
  • Day 29

    Pendueles to Naves

    June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    Today didn't start too great. It started by being woken up at 5 am by the alarm of the only other person in the room, despite the large sign asking people not to make noise before 7:30am. The alarm was followed by the sounds of rustling plastic bags as he packed up for an interminably long time. I did manage to get about another 45 minutes of sleep, but not as much sleep as I would have liked before walking 27 km.

    Fortunately today's walk took me past several beautiful beaches, and eventually the alarm clock offender eating breakfast - I chose a different place for breakfast. 😉

    I had reserved a hotel for tonight in what can be best described as a hamlet, as it's too small to be called a village. I'm waiting for one of the two bar/sidrería/restaurantes to open at 8 so that I can eat dinner. I'll be joined by Tamara from the DC area who decided to stay here rather than walk farther at 4:30.
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  • Day 31

    San Esteban de Leces to Lastres

    June 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    I ended up not walking on the Camino today. I realized that if I did I wouldn't see much of the coast again because I will be heading inland to connect with the Camino Primitivo in a couple of days. So I decided to take a coastal path and walk to Lastres, a picturesque little fishing town terraced above the sea. Tomorrow I'll have a few extra kilometers to walk to get back on the Camino.

    It was a beautiful sunny (but a bit humid) day, perfect for taking in the views.

    My only problem was finding something to eat after I showered and washed my clothes. It was the time of day that most restaurants were closing down after lunch, but there was one across the street that was open. No menú del día offered today since it was Saturday. Most of the dishes on offer were raciones, which are portions meant to be shared, so I had to settle on an overpriced salad.

    Per usual, by the time I had eaten and had a chance to walk to the closest beach the skies had clouded over and the temperature had dropped. But the afternoon was saved by an open ice cream shop. 😅
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  • Day 31

    A bit of Trompe l'oeil

    June 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Shortly after I began walking this morning I came across the house with some great trompe l'oeil paintings.

  • Day 32

    Lastres to Amandi - goodbye to the sea

    June 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    After saying goodbye to the sea I walked about 45 minutes to rejoin the Camino in Colunga. It was already pretty warm and humid, and after stopping for breakfast I put my umbrella up to give me some shade and sun protection. But after a couple of hours of walking the Camino went off the road and onto the rarest kind of path on the Camino del Norte - a non rocky shaded dirt path beside a creek! It was wonderful to walk on after so much asphalt and stony trails.

    I met up with a very nice Spanish woman from Bilbao who patiently talked to me in slow clear Spanish. After a while we met a Spanish man, also from Basque Country, and the three of us walked together into Villaviciosa. They were stopping at the albergue there, but my destination for the day was a donativo albergue a couple of kilometers down the road.

    I was warmly welcomed by a young German woman who was volunteering there. I was a bit unhappy that all of the lower bunks were already taken, and had resigned myself to an upper bunk when the owner came in the room and folded another bed down from the wall because it was going to be a full house that night.

    The owner was a super nice and engaging guy named Sergio. As we arrived he wrote our names on a board accompanied by the flag of our nationality. He joined in a spirited game of Uno, then made a delicious vegetable paella for dinner, accompanied by a nice salad, bread, and wine, with homemade bread pudding for dessert.

    In the morning we were awakened by soft music playing on a speaker in the room at 6:30, then we all sat down to breakfast at 7:00. I haven't stayed in many albergues on this trip, but this was definitely one of the best albergue experiences I've had on any Camino.
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  • Day 33

    Amandi to Pola de Siero

    June 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Today it was goodbye to the Camino del Norte, as I am transitioning to the Camino Primitivo which starts in Oviedo where I will be tomorrow.

    I left the albergue alone this morning, but soon two young women from the Netherlands who had been at the albergue caught up with me while I was attempting to fix a noisy squeak in my backpack. Hannah and Ans had already walked 1800 km from Belgium! We walked together off and on for a while, then I decided to take a detour that goes by a pre-romanesque church. I knew that it wasn't open on Mondays, but hoped to be able to see the outside. Unfortunately it and the adjacent monastery were behind a locked gate, so I had to be satisfied with a picture of the top of the church. As I climbed out of the valley I was able to see the monastery nestled in the valley below.

    After stopping for second breakfast I caught up with a young French guy, and we walked together the rest of the way to Pola de Siero where we are staying at the public albergue, which has mostly single (non bunk) beds. I'm in a room with Dorotée from France who is also my age. It's a comfortable building with high ceilings and plenty of space between the beds. Shortly after arriving it started to rain, then pour, then loud claps of thunder. I'll wait a bit before heading to the grocery to resupply my snacks.
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  • Day 34

    Pola de Siero to Oviedo

    June 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    I'm a few days behind on posting, so this will just be mostly photos of Oviedo. The most memorable thing about this day's walk was that about halfway through it started pouring!

  • Day 35

    Oviedo to Grado

    June 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    After leaving the city of Oviedo the Camino returned to rural roads and some shady trails. The most memorable thing about today's walk was all the new pilgrims on the trail who started in Oviedo.

  • Day 36

    Grado to Salas

    June 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Once again I'm behind on posting, so another mostly picture entry.

    It was a bit hot and humid today, but fortunately there were some shady trails. I felt like I was the only guest at Hotel Soto, which was only 25€ for a single room. There was a great sunny terrace for drying clothes, and it was close to the albergue where my two Dutch friends were staying. They invited me to have dinner there with them, which was great because it was very different from the typical fare: Asian mushroom soup with Vietnamese spring rolls, vegetable curry, bread, wine and dessert.Read more

  • Day 37

    Salas to Tineo

    June 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    A steady uphill climb most of the day on nice shady trails. It was a very nice approach to Tineo which is built on the side of a hill, and has great views. I suspect that Tineo was hit hard by Covid because there is a plaque dedicated to Covid victims on the way into town.

    Hydrangeas grow like crazy here. I've even seen them off the trail, practically growing wild.

    I stayed in the albergue section of the Palacio de Meras hotel, which was very nice.

    Friday night in tiny Tineo was hopping, because it was high school graduation night. A boisterous group gathered at the restaurant where we had dinner.

    Edited to add: when we left town in the morning the graduation group was still partying at the bar on the main plaza.
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  • Day 38

    Tineo to Colinas de Arriba

    June 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Today was cloudy and mostly cool. It started out a bit foggy, so I missed any views that there were leaving Tineo.

    Tomorrow is supposed to be the most difficult day of the Camino Primitivo. Typically, the stage is from Borres to Berducedo which is just over 24 km, but I'm staying in a great albergue in Colinas de Arriba which will make my walk tomorrow just 21 km. There will be no places with services (food, bathrooms) to stop for those 22 km.

    I knew that this albergue had a private room in addition to the dorms, and around lunchtime I sent them a WhatsApp message to ask if it was still available. It was and I'm so glad that I decided to go for it, because it's the nicest private room that I e stayed in on this year's Camino. And it has the BEST shower!
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