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- Dag 166
- tirsdag 17. juni 2025 10:40
- ☀️ 81 °F
- Høyde: Sjønivå
Fransk PolynesiaMoorea-Maiao17°29’18” S 149°54’22” W
Mo'orea

The views as we cruised to our anchoring spot at Mo’orea were maybe the most spectacular we’d yet had in French Polynesia, which is saying something. We anchored at the mouth of 'Ōpūnohu Bay with a perfect view of Mount Tohivea. It was the kind of place where it felt like you could sit and stare at the scenery all day.
But we did have an excursion planned, called a “Motu Picnic Escapade.” We tendered in to the pier and immediately transferred to a small catamaran that would take us out snorkeling and to a motu (small islet). The snorkeling stop was with sharks and rays, so it was pretty similar to things we’d done already, but it was still fun. Then it was on to the motu for the picnic. Along the way we were able to spot some sea turtles swimming.
There were actually two small islets sitting off the coast of Mo’orea with a narrow channel between them. We snorkeled in the channel, which had a reasonably strong current running through it. That made going up-current some work, but drifting down was easy. The snorkeling was so-so; shallow waters, lots of dead coral, but some living and enough fish to keep it interesting.
After snorkeling we went back on shore for the picnic. There was not a ton of vegetarian food, but what they had was good and we had enough. There was some time after lunch to do your own thing, which frankly was not really needed. Thomas had fun with a dog who routinely swims over to the motu from the “mainland.”
Going back to the ship was another beautiful journey. We passed by one of those hotels with rooms built out over the water that had been out of commission since before the pandemic. They had a dolphin still living there and his caretaker had him do some jumps for us as we passed by. I never did get the story on the dolphin as far as why he’s still there.Les mer
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- Dag 167
- onsdag 18. juni 2025 13:05
- 🌬 81 °F
- Høyde: 56 ft
Fransk PolynesiaFakarava16°3’41” S 145°37’3” W
Fakarava

Our next stop in French Polynesia was at Fakarava. Unlike the previous islands, which were mountainous remnants of volcanoes, Fakarava is an atoll, where the volcanic cone has completely eroded away. All that is left is the reef surrounding a large lagoon.
Not a lot of people live on Fakarava and there isn’t much infrastructure. Given this, we had no real plan for the day. We took a tender in around 10:00 and looked around the pier area. To the right looked a little better than to the left, so we went that way. Almost immediately we saw a sign for tourist information, so we went in there. We were assisted by a very nice young man who had a large photograph of the area and helped us figure out where we might want to go.
We walked down the street a bit and found a shaded grassy area looking out over the lagoon. Looked like a good place to try, so we set our stuff down there. While looking out at the water we saw three different nurse sharks cruise by, which was very cool. Linda, David, Liz, and Thomas headed out to snorkel while DJ, Tom, and myself stayed at camp. Then we would rotate. The snorkeling was decent if you went out far enough. I was lucky enough to see a sea turtle while I was out there.
A number of other ATW passengers came by and joined us and after a while we had a pretty good beach party going. Some of us walked down to the “coral church,” which was a very pretty Catholic church. Inside it was decorated largely with ornaments made from local materials.
After the church we made the short walk to the ocean side of the island, which was much rougher and windier than the sheltered lagoon side. And then it was time to tender back to the ship.Les mer
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- Dag 169
- fredag 20. juni 2025 10:25
- ☀️ 79 °F
- Høyde: 968 ft
Fransk PolynesiaNuku Hiva8°50’25” S 140°5’47” W
Nuku Hiva

Our final stop in French Polynesia was at Nuku Hiva, an island in the Marquesas group. I hadn’t come up with a plan for this stop, so we hurriedly looked for a tour guide or some form of transport to get us around. We lucked out here: I found a listing on Tripadvisor that just had an email address and sent off a query. Got a response back that the guide was open and could give us a tour around the island for seven people. Great!
We were on the first tender to the dock. Upon arrival we looked around but did not see our guide…hmm. I didn’t have a phone number, so just replied to the email I had. But a few minutes later a modified pickup truck with benches and a canopy in the back pulled up. This was Debora, our guide. She apologized for being late and we piled in for our tour. Debora has lived her whole life on Nuka Hiva, is married to the former mayor of Taioha'e, the regional capital, and worked with the UN when they were establishing a UNESCO heritage site on the island. She really knew her stuff.
We rode up and over the central mountain peaks, going through a pretty good tropical downpour on the way. The canopy held up though, and the four of us in back – myself, Tom, Thomas, and DJ – enjoyed the experience greatly. Our first stop was in the Taipivai valley, where Herman Melville lived for several weeks after deserting the ship he was on. This experience became the background for his book Typee. We learned a bit about Melville and also got a few banana hand pies that were delicious.
The remaining tour consisted of stops at scenic viewpoints and a brief history of the local population. Like so many of the stories of indigenous populations coming into contact with Europeans, it was a sad story. Before the Europeans arrived, there were an estimated 200,000 people living on Nuku Hiva and the surrounding islands. By the early 20th century that number had dropped to 2,000, mainly due to introduced diseases. Much of the local culture, which was passed down verbally, was lost. Some was recorded, ironically by Europeans, and there are efforts underway to preserve that culture as much as possible.
Leaving Nuku Hiva means an end to the South Pacific portion of our journey and an end to any new stops for us. The reality that the trip is coming to an end is setting in. On the bright side, New Caledonia, Vanuatu, Fiji, Samoa, and French Polynesia were all wonderful – strikingly beautiful and welcoming. We’d come back in a heartbeat to any of them, but I think Vanuatu and Fiji wound up tops in our hearts.Les mer

Two to TravelYou really lucked out with your last-minute guide. The valley looks lovely. In 2017, storms delayed our arrival until late, late afternoon, so we had to cancel our tour and just wander around town.
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- Dag 174
- onsdag 25. juni 2025 19:00
- ⛅ 79 °F
- Høyde: 59 ft
Forente staterHonolulu21°17’9” N 157°50’48” W
Sea days and Honolulu

After leaving Nuku Hiva and French Polynesia, we had four sea days to get us up to the Hawaiian Islands. These were filled with the usual activities, plus rehearsal for the magic show that Henry is putting on, the Country Fair (we didn’t win anything in the raffle but Tom did), and the crossing the equator ceremony.
We pulled into Honolulu a little before 3:00 PM on Wednesday, meaning there would be little time for shoreside activities. We’d been told that everyone would need to exit the ship for immigration processes, so we’d planned some activities with friends to kill that time. Turns out that did not happen, and instead we’d all be called by deck to come down to the lounge to clear face-to-face immigration. Instead of announcements being made for each deck, however, it was just a huge cattle call. We had been waiting in our room for the announcement when I saw people leaving the ship. So we went down to find a line extending from the lounge to the boutiques. Fortunately the process was quick and the line didn’t take too long, but this was poorly handled.
We had some shopping we wanted to do so we went over as a group to the Ala Moana Center. We picked up some essentials and then got a quick bite (which was very good!) in the food court. After that we crossed the street to Magic Island to watch the sunset. It was all very nice for an impromptu Waikiki visit.Les mer
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- Dag 175
- torsdag 26. juni 2025 19:31
- 🌬 79 °F
- Høyde: Sjønivå
North Pacific Ocean21°4’25” N 157°50’4” W
Honolulu day 2

Despite having been to Hawaii many times, we’ve never spent much time in Waikiki. So our plan for our day in Honolulu was to have a day at Waikiki Beach. We took an Uber to Kapi Olani Park, which is at the end of the beach near Diamond Head, and set up shop there. From this spot we could get in the water, walk down Kalakaua Avenue to see the shops and eateries, check out the zoo and/or aquarium if we wanted, and just generally see what people do on Waikiki.
We started off with some swimming. While the beach is obviously a nice sandy beach, the bottom quickly turned rocky where we were. That didn’t stop the boys from having a great time, though. There was just enough wave action to keep it interesting without being exhausting. We got some good vegetarian food from a spot just down the beach and the boys and their grandfather walked down a ways to get some ice cream.
One interesting bit was when a monk seal swam between the boys and I and the shore. We were no more than six feet from it and he looked huge! Apparently he was looking for a spot to haul out on the beach, but it was far too crowded for his comfort. Surprising to get so close to one, though!
We made a full day of it, getting back to the ship around 4:30. Sail away was at 6:00, so we ate out on the Terrace to watch Oahu slip away. Next up is Hilo and the Big Island and our final port stop of the trip.Les mer
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- Dag 176
- fredag 27. juni 2025 06:48
- ⛅ 73 °F
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Forente staterHawaiʻi County19°48’46” N 155°3’53” W
Hilo

Our excursion for the stop in Hilo was to Volcanoes National Park. The trip started with the obligatory and totally unnecessary shopping stop, this time at Big Island Confectionary. We did pick up some cookies as a gift for Ken, whose birthday was upcoming. After that it was about 45 minutes up to the park itself.
We had three stops in the park. The first was at the overlook for the Kilauea crater. The crater had been active, but was in a quiet period while we were there. We saw steam and smoke, but no lava. We then went to the visitor center where we got stamps to put in the boys’ national park passport books. The final stop was at the steam vents. These are openings where collected water hits hot rocks, creating steam. These were interesting, and there was a good trail that we took that gave additional looks at the Kilauea crater.
We got back to the ship after the Terrace closed, so we had a late lunch at Waves. The last port call of the trip was over and now it was just the road home.Les mer
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- Dag 181
- onsdag 2. juli 2025 06:37 UTC
- ☁️ 61 °F
- Høyde: Sjønivå
North Pacific Ocean31°51’28” N 122°17’55” W
Final Days

We had five sea days from Hilo to San Diego, which meant plenty of time for good byes, packing, and other activities. I’ll just touch on the highlights.
We entered our second ship building competition of the cruise. We built our ship, the “Can Do,” out of discarded aluminum cans, duct tape (obtained from fellow passenger Jeff), a coat hanger, dental floss, and twine (obtained from fellow passenger Angela). The sea trial day came and went without any notice and we thought the event might have just been dropped, but then it got scheduled for the next day. There were only two entrants, ours and Donya’s, which celebrated her late husband Patrick. We were both awarded first place.
We had a magic show on the first sea day. Fellow passenger Henry is a practicing magician and taught a group of us some tricks. We started out just messing around but then Henry thought maybe we could put on a show. So the eight of us got a slot in the Insignia Lounge for the pre-dinner show. It turned out great! All four members of our family performed and had a wonderful time. The only bummer was that CD Bryn promised to do a video recording of the show and failed to follow through on that. We did get David and Linda to record from their seats, so we do have that record of the performance. I was really proud of the boys for getting up and doing their tricks in front of a live audience.
The final Sing Out Loud performance was emotional as the group had secretly prepared a song for our ATW hosts Paul and Carolyn. As the show was ending they told everyone to stick around and then sang “Thank You for Being a Friend” from Golden Girls. Even Paul got a bit teary-eyed. Shout out to Devin for being the only performer in both of these shows!
Finally, on the last sea day, Elizabeth performed in a belly dancing show. Fellow passenger Valerie had been leading classes for months and, like Henry, thought it would be fun to turn the activity into a show. It was terrific! The ladies (and one man!) in the group were originally going to be background dancers, but Valerie wanted them to all have the spotlight for a while so they all got solos. It went very well.
Overall we tried to squeeze as much out of the final days as we could. It was hard to believe that our grand adventure was coming to an end.Les mer
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- Dag 181
- onsdag 2. juli 2025 06:42 UTC
- ☁️ 63 °F
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North Pacific Ocean32°42’10” N 117°31’15” W
Birds!

This was not a birding trip, obviously. There weren’t even any birding outings or walks on the trip. But I was always on the lookout for birds. Given that, I wound up with 165 life birds on the trip. For you bird nerds, here’s the list (taxonomic order of course!):
Lesser Whistling-Duck
Ruddy Shelduck
Paradise Shelduck
Brazilian Teal
Cape Teal
Brown Teal
New Zealand Scaup
Rusty-margined Guan
Indian Peafowl
Picazuro Pigeon
Malagasy Turtle-Dove
Oriental Turtle-Dove
Red Collared-Dove
Little Cuckoo-Dove
Asian Emerald Dove
Zebra Dove
Crimson-crowned Fruit-Dove
Nuku Hiva Imperial-Pigeon
Barking Imperial-Pigeon
New Zealand Pigeon
Greater Coucal
Pied Cuckoo
Asian Koel
Shining Bronze-Cuckoo
White-throated Needletail
Satin Swiftlet
African Swift
Bradfield's Swift
Pacific Swift
House Swift
Glittering-bellied Emerald
Antillean Crested Hummingbird
Buff-banded Rail
Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail
Gray-headed Swamphen
Black Crake
Blue Crane
Indian Thick-knee
Pied Avocet
South Island Oystercatcher
African Oystercatcher
Yellow-wattled Lapwing
Red-wattled Lapwing
Chestnut-banded Plover
White-fronted Plover
Pheasant-tailed Jacana
Eurasian Curlew
Spotted Redshank
Common Greenshank
Curlew Sandpiper
Sabine's Gull
Brown-hooded Gull
Brown-headed Gull
Black Noddy
Damara Tern
Yellow-billed Tern
Large-billed Tern
Black-naped Tern
Lesser Crested Tern
Greater Flamingo
Lesser Flamingo
Snowy Albatross
Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatross
Spectacled Petrel
Fluttering Shearwater
Asian Openbill
African Woolly-necked Stork
Asian Woolly-necked Stork
Lesser Adjutant
Milky Stork
Painted Stork
Lesser Frigatebird
Little Cormorant
Bank Cormorant
Cape Cormorant
Japanese Cormorant
Buff-necked Ibis
Black-headed Ibis
Eurasian Spoonbill
Indian Pond-Heron
Chinese Pond-Heron
Eastern Cattle-Egret
Medium Egret
Humblot's Heron
Spot-billed Pelican
Shikra
Fiji Goshawk
Swamp Harrier
Gray-headed Fish-Eagle
Spotted Eagle-Owl
Eurasian Hoopoe
Crowned Hornbill
Blue-tailed Bee-eater
Chestnut-headed Bee-eater
White-throated Kingfisher
Pacific Kingfisher
Channel-billed Toucan
Philippine Pygmy Woodpecker
New Zealand Kaka
Red-crowned Parakeet
Eastern Rosella
Monk Parakeet
White-winged Parakeet
Golden-capped Parakeet
Blue-and-yellow Macaw
Red-and-green Macaw
Red-shouldered Macaw
Rifleman
Pale-legged Hornero
Masked Water-Tyrant
Dusky-chested Flycatcher
Tui
Dark-brown Honeyeater
Gray Gerygone
Polynesian Triller
Whitehead
Rufous Whistler
Fiji Woodswallow
Southern Boubou
Philippine Pied-Fantail
New Zealand Fantail
Black Drongo
Malagasy Paradise-Flycatcher
Azure-winged Magpie
North Island Saddleback
Stitchbird
North Island Robin
Rufous-naped Lark
Southern Crag-Martin
Black Bulbul
Light-vented Bulbul
Swinhoe's White-eye
Orange River White-eye
Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrush
Samoan Starling
Black-collared Starling
Crested Myna
Chalk-browed Mockingbird
Song Thrush
Chinese Blackbird
Marico Flycatcher
Blue Rock-Thrush
Orange-bellied Flowerpecker
Southern Double-collared Sunbird
Seychelles Sunbird
Bornean Spiderhunter
Asian Fairy-bluebird
Red Fody
Fan-tailed Widowbird
Madagascar Munia
Chestnut-breasted Munia
Southern Gray-headed Sparrow
Cape Wagtail
Paddyfield Pipit
Yellow-throated Longclaw
Common Chaffinch
Yellow-fronted Canary
Oriole Blackbird
Yellow-hooded Blackbird
Plumbeous Warbler
Red-capped Cardinal
Yellow-billed Cardinal
Orange-fronted Yellow-Finch
Saffron Finch
Barbados BullfinchLes mer
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- Dag 182
- torsdag 3. juli 2025 08:44
- ⛅ 63 °F
- Høyde: 26 ft
Forente staterSan Diego32°42’51” N 117°10’27” W
THE END

We arrived in San Diego in the pre-dawn hours on July 3rd, 180 days since our departure from Miami on January 5th. It was a funny feeling to look out at a city that we are so familiar with after such a long series of new places.
We were very sad to leave the ship in the morning. Not only did it mean an end to an incredible adventure, it meant leaving the friends we’d made. At the beginning of the cruise we were told that the ATW passengers would become like family. We scoffed at that a little at the time. But it absolutely came to be true. It took a little longer for us to form these bonds because for the first several months we were not as available as others due to our schooling responsibilities on sea days. As we wrapped up the school year and had more free time during the day, we were able to spend more time with people and get to know them. As we did we realized what an incredible set of folks we were with. So many interesting stories and so many strong, smart, fascinating people! As we debarked in San Diego we walked through a collection of ATW passengers who were staying on until Miami or New York. Dressed in their Oceania bathrobes, they clapped and hugged us as we left. I don’t think there were many dry eyes.
Our main goal for the trip was to see a bunch of new places and to introduce the boys to them so they could potentially return to those they liked later in life. That happened as we’d hoped. What also happened was that they grew and bloomed in ways we hadn’t anticipated. As the only kids on the ship for the vast majority of the cruise, their interactions were all with adults. That led to a big boost in confidence and them becoming comfortable talking with anyone. I never would have guessed that they would be performing in front of large groups on the ship: Devin from early on with Sing Out Loud, and both of them in the magic show near the end of the cruise.
I’d like to think this has made them, and us, better people. We live in a fractured society, with people living isolated lives and interacting online only in their echo chambers. The cure for that is not to blacklist those who are not like you, it’s to get to know people better. The better we know each other the more likely we are to care about one another. And this starts with basic social skills, like listening attentively and being nice even when you don’t really want to. I saw the boys doing that and it filled me with pride. Liz and I were talking on the way home and said that after the decision to have kids, taking this trip was the best thing we’ve ever done.Les mer

Two to TravelThanks for taking us along on your ATW. Enjoyed arm-chair traveling along with you all.
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Handsome fellows right there!