Camino Portuguese

April - June 2023
Backpacking the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela followed by visits to Madrid, Seville and Barcelona Read more
  • 53footprints
  • 3countries
  • 45days
  • 746photos
  • 1videos
  • 9.2kmiles
  • 4.4kmiles
  • 4.3kmiles
  • 40miles
  • Day 5

    Belem

    April 25, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Belem is just a few miles from downtown Lisbon. The architecture of the abbey is fantastic and, along with the church, is centuries old. The Belem Tower would have been the last thing Portuguese sailors would have seen as they ventured into the Atlantic.Read more

  • Day 5

    Food and drinks of Lisbon

    April 25, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Lisbon is known for its seafood, especially its codfish that is cured in salt. They use the cod to make codfish cakes with serra cheese in the center. They are everywhere and good for a little snack. They also make a custard filled pastry called Pastel de Nata. Best dessert! I have eaten one every day!! Beer is a regular as is the cherry ginjas. This is best if poured into a dark chocolate cup. Eat the cup when half filled with the liquor and it tastes like a chocolate covered cherry. But the coffee is small!!Read more

  • Day 5

    Getting ready for the main event!

    April 25, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Camino de Santiago, known in English as the Way of St James, is a network of pilgrims' ways or pilgrimages leading to the shrine of the apostle Saint James the Great in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain, where tradition holds that the remains of the apostle are buried. (Wikipedia.). This used to be a religious pilgrimage but today people walk for all kinds of reasons including just for the challenge!

    We are packing our packs and will be leaving Wednesday morning. We are 5 hours ahead of the US so when you wake up Wednesday, we will already be well underway. We will carry our personal needs in our backpacks, buy food along the way, and stay as often as we can in albergues (hostels or guest houses). Stay tuned!!! Santiago here we come!
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  • Day 6

    Camino Day 1 Lisbon.Vila Franca de Xira

    April 26, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    Walked 21.75 miles under sunny skies, 84 degrees with little shade. We collapsed onto beds upon entering our room. Tomorrow is to be 89 deg.

    We left from Lisbon and saw 5 pilgrims from Lisbon who are walking the Camino to Fatima, a much more popular route in southern Portugal. We also passed 2 Slovenians who were biking to Santiago and a Frenchman and a Canadian walking- actually, they passed us. Other than that, it was just the two of us walking through parks, fields, along highways, or over boardwalks.

    We are at Retiro and spoke with Jason from Florida. He is a 40 year old doing his second Camino. He said his flight landed at 8:00AM and he went directly to cathedral to pick up his Camino passport. He obviously walked faster than us, arriving only an hour later.

    This was the second time we went into a restaurant only to be told that the kitchen didn't open until 7:00. That was ok, just gave us some dedicated beer drinking time.

    Things we learned.
    - Stop at the cafes along the way when you see them - we didn't and then they weren't around when we wanted one.
    -. Carry snacks!! (Fortunately, we did!)
    - Carry extra water it fill up at the cafes you stop at. We ran out before we got to our final destination.

    I'm thankful for:
    - the beautiful wildflowers that were in season today.
    - our health. Although we were very tired and very sore, we made it without complications.
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  • Day 7

    Camino Day 2 - to Azambuja

    April 27, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F

    We decided on a short day, only 12 miles. A couple reasons:. To get a good sleep and adapt to the physical routine, and because it was 91 deg when we stopped hiking and there was zero shade. The next 3 days look to be 20 mile days .

    Today we met up with our Portuguese friends again. They are on a 5 day trip to Fatima. They range in age from 33 - 58 and are all from the same church. This is a true spiritual pilgrimage for them. They tried to convince us to go to Fatima first and then on to Santiago but we don't need anymore extra miles. We won't see them again as they were going farther today and will shortly veer off of our path. Bom Camino!

    We have met the other Americans. Jason is from Florida and we met him at the restaurant last night. We may or may not see him again. He had a plan and walks much faster than us. Today we met two ladies from California as we were leaving the cafe we stopped at, Allison and Jaz.

    I am thankful for:
    - those walking poles!!! When my legs get tired, they are a little extra support.
    - GPS. We follow the camino trail of yellow arrows but sometimes they are hard to find. It is nice to know you are on the right track or if you are off of it before you have gone too far.
    - flowers, animals, and things that I said, "oh, we have that at home!" We are really not all that different
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  • Day 8

    Camino Day 3 - to Santarem

    April 28, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    21 miles today and the weather forecasters are as bad here as they are at home. Last night, the forecast was for a cloudy day. We didn't see many clouds and most were in the morning when it was cool. Very little shade, once again. The last 1.5 miles were up hill.

    Today we walked primarily through farmland - some ready to be planted, some recently planted, and we saw tomatoes being planted by a big machine doing several rows at a time. There were so many picturesque moments, but pictures would not do then justice (and if I stopped every time I wanted a picture, it would have taken us another hour!)

    We walked with Jeff from California for a while today and met Connie and Lizbet from Denmark. Jeff is 71 and did the Frances last year as a 70th birthday present to himself. Lots of bikers doing the camino as well.
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  • Day 9

    Camino Day 4 - to Golega

    April 29, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Did a little over 20.25 miles today. It seemed easy helped by the fact it was only mid 70s with a great breeze most of the way.

    Walked several miles through vineyards followed by miles of cornfields. In both cases, we were right in the middle of the fields.

    Met more pilgrims today, two from Bangor, Maine (Dan & Heather) and our friends from Denmark, all struggling to get through another 20 mile day. Our friends from Denmark, Connie and Lisbeth, retired teachers, did the Camino Frances last year. They said that the Frances was more hilly, but was easier to do because there are cafes everywhere and lots of places to stay. You could determine how far you wanted to walk. Here, you have to walk until there is a place to stay, which could be 10 miles or 20 miles, but nothing in between! And there have only been two or three cafes throughout the 20 miles. We have been making reservations 3 and 4 days out and sometimes have to call 2 or 3 places to get a room. Once we get to Porto, things should be different as many people start there.
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  • Day 10

    Day 5 - To Tomar

    April 30, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    A little over 19 miles today and that was a push. It was a low energy day. Sure glad we scheduled tomorrow as a rest day. Tomar looks like a fun place to check out - we are in the old city.

    Spent some time with our Danish friends, mostly at a cafe stop that was long overdue. While at the cafe we also met a young couple from Siberia. I bet they were loving the 80s weather with sunny skies.

    It was a challenging day. We both started out dragging and then had to go 14 miles before we came to an open cafe and could get some coffee, juice, cold water and/or beer. Earlier we stopped on a park bench and then later in the shade of a tree to eat what we were carrying. Today we left the river Teo and started up. A lot of ups and downs, but mostly ups, through a few nice neighborhoods and then through the forest. It was a hot, quiet, peaceful day.
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  • Day 11

    Day 6 - Rest Day in Tomar

    May 1, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Today was a very necessary rest day. 20 mile days catch up to you. We slept in, had breakfast at the hostel, and spent some time planning our future accommodations. This is not how we planned our trip but there are many more people doing the Camino than in the past. So, where do we stay? There are albergues - shared dormitory type rooms and shared baths and kitchen. They fill up quickly. We have been staying in (and mostly booked ahead) hostels or guesthouses. We have been able to get a private room with a shared or private bath, and shared kitchen. Most of them include breakfast. They have been clean and comfortable, where many pilgrims are staying and average 60E.

    Today was sunny and hot. Tomar is a beautiful town with a lot of medieval history. We took a tuk-tuk around town for a guided tour. Our guide was a local named Monica. This town has been largely influenced by the Knights of Templar and Christianity and yet it also has the oldest synagogue in the world. There are only two Jewish families currently living here but many make a pilgrimage from Israel to worship here.

    Thoughts on our first week:
    There is so much to take in on this trip.
    1) There are snails everywhere. We may lose then when we move away from the river area but some days you had to be careful where you walked so you didn't step on them.
    2) If the people here have a yard, they have an orange tree, and I am jealous! (I also want a kumquat tree!)
    3) There are so many pilgrims from all over the world to meet. This in itself is an experience. Today we met Emma, a 24 year old yoga instructor from the czech republic. Emma was having know issues. We also ran into our friends from Denmark, who decided to take a rest day, also.
    4( Walking through all of the small towns gives one the chance to witness Portugal as it is. Seeing people working in the fields or the industry, tending their own gardens, coming to the cafes with their families for Saturday breakfast, washing their white houses, teenagers hanging out at the hamberquesa, being in a bar where everyone knows each other (except us!), celebrating holidays with parades, and junior hockey teams winning the championship with car honking and cheers in the streets. We don't understand their language, and yet we can relate. This is very different than being in the tourist big cities.
    5) Communicating outside of the bigger cities is a little more difficult but most Portuguese people are friendly and try their best. (Most of their English is still better than my Portuguese). At a tavern we ate at earlier this week, the man spoke no English and his wife, the cook, spoke broken English. When we asked about food, she had a picture of a common Portuguese dish - meat (pork or beef), rice, French fries, and an egg. That is what she would cook for us. We got it, and liked it. If we could speak Portuguese, maybe we would have had more options, but if you only speak English, there is one picture. Lol
    6) Taking an escape from everyday living, enjoying nature, and peaceful solitude, not having any idea what the day or date is. Honest, everyday we ask each other "What day is today?"
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  • Day 12

    Day 7 Tomar to Aalvaiazere

    May 2, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    The guide book says that we would climb out of the flat plains into the central province and climb we did - up, up, and up some more. 20 miles with a high of 92°. (Okay we came down some, but every time we came down, we went up more!) We left at 6:00am to get as much of the trek in as we could before it got too hot. A lot of the hills were Pittsburgh type hills but some were straight up, seemingly never ending. We went through very nice forestry areas and some nice suburban areas, as well as little towns. There were many olive groves, aromatic wildflowers, and yards with planted flowers. A very pretty day but very hot. We were blessed with some shade and a little bit of cloud coverage. It could have been a lot worse. And there was only one cafe on the trail.

    We are spending the night at the Albergue Pinheiros run by Carlos. He greeted us with port wine and a very special stamp. Pilgrims carry a passport and get stamps from the places they stay and cafes. I am sure we will not get another stamp as special as Carlos's. He also recommended a place for dinner. Many of the pilgrims staying here went there so we had a great time socializing with our friends from Denmark, Maine, and a new friend from South Africa (Senid, a retired traveling nurse).

    I am thankful...
    ... That we only have one more 20 mile day scheduled.
    ... That there was a gas station/convenience store right when we needed it.
    ... For my husband, whom I love to travel with. We have experienced so much already and I know I wouldn't have done this without him!
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