Sarria to Portomarín

A 25km day with lots of rain.

We left our pensión at 7:45, surprised to find it was not raining. The forecast was 100% certain about lots of rain. We had no sooner sat down in the first bar we found for breakfast when the heavens opened. It was torrential and sideways at times in the strong wind. Alas it was much the same when we’d downed our juice, toast and coffee so we donned the ponchos and headed out into it. It continued to rain, and very heavily at times, all morning. Some of the tracks leading out of Sarria were turned into creek beds. They improved outside the city limits a bit. In these circumstances, resigned to having sodden feet all day, we put our heads down and cranked out 12km without a break.

Pilgrim traffic was noticeably heavier due to those beginning their trek at Sarria. So much so that there was a line out the door at the coffee place we passed as the rain cleared. We walked on a few hundred meters and stopped in a shed containing vending machines, and tucked into a KitKat and coffee. From then on there was little rain and we were able to appreciate the beautiful countryside: more lush green cow country, with a tiny village every few kilometers. About an hour later we stopped at a very nice bar at Brea and had something resembling lunch.

Along the track we met some of the usual suspects, Lisa from Portland, and Paula (a.k.a Hot Wheels) and her 3 fellow Hoosier pals (Hoosier = person native to Indiana). We took pictures of each other at the milepost indicating we had exactly 100km to travel to reach Santiago.

One other stop for a drink at a nice bar in Mercadoiro before covering the final 6km or so to Portomarín. There was quite a steep descent just before reaching a very high bridge over the Miño river leading into town.

We checked into our Pousada de Portomarín. It’s a grand old place, a former Parador, built in the 1960s. Relieved to find our wet feet had no blisters, we took care of some washing and boot drying and headed downstairs for the usual couple of cleansing radlers.

This place has a restaurant where we will dine and breakfast, thus avoiding any unnecessary walking.

We were happy with the ponchos’ performance today. They felt a bit clammy in the heavy rain but everything under them remained quite dry.Read more