DAY 1 - CAMINO LA RIOJA

The One with Brass Bands, Too Many Stamps & Goldfinches.

📍 Location: Pamplona → Puente la Reina

🥾 Miles: 17.4 miles

⛑️ Health: One person sporting a couple of blisters, and my left foot is grumbling. Otherwise, spirits (and bodies) are in good shape.

🌦️ Weather: Goldilocks weather – not too hot, not too cold, just right!

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We arrived yesterday after a long day of travelling, but the reunion was worth it. This small group of ten walked together last year, so the bond is already there. Sitting in the Pamplona sunshine with a cold lemon beer, catching up on life, and sharing stories with the same waiter from last year (still flashing that gorgeous smile) gave me a really good feeling about this trip.

Morning in Pamplona

🍳 Breakfast at 7am was a feast – eggs on toast, fruit (real fruit this time, not the tinned kind!), yoghurt, and of course, I pocketed an apple for the road. My suitcase was left in reception ready for Pilbeo, the luggage transfer service, and by 8:30am we were stepping out into the dusky streets of Pamplona.

The city was slowly waking up: narrow cobbled streets lined with tall buildings, shuttered balconies, and the odd café setting up for the morning. As I gave the walkers’ briefing and organised the obligatory group photo, we set off, following the familiar yellow arrows and tiny silver scallop shells embedded into the pavements.

Just minutes later, we were stopped in our tracks. At 8:44am, a full brass band was marching through the park, Spanish flags waving, uniforms gleaming. No idea what the occasion was, but what a welcome to Spain!

Stamps, Stamps, and More Stamps

By 9:14am the competitive streak was showing. The record for stamps on a week-long Camino trip is 57 (set by Wendy on the Camino Inglés), but I have a sneaky feeling this group will smash it. A detour through the University gardens earned us a “special” stamp, and at 9:53am the first café appeared – cue another stamp. By mid-morning, the city was behind us and the countryside opened up: little stone bridges, shaded woods, and rolling hills.

At one point, Lou nearly danced her way into the pavement when she tripped over a hosepipe – thankfully, she stayed upright, and we all had a good giggle.

Alto de Perdón

By 12:10pm, after a steady climb, we reached the famous Alto de Perdón. This ridge is marked by a striking line of iron pilgrim statues, representing centuries of walkers making their way to Santiago. From here, the views stretched across the plains, with the Pyrenees still visible in the distance. With clear skies and a gentle breeze, it was the perfect place to stop for coffee (I had a flask with me) and a snack.

The descent, however, was less fun. Loose gravel and steep slopes make it a tricky section, and I’ll admit I was cautious, it was here back in 2018 that I did a full face plant! Thankfully, this time I made it down in one piece, chatting with Kate (“The Crab”) all the way into the next village, Uterga.

Detours and Surprises

⛪️ At 1:17pm we tried something new – the alternative route to the church of Santa María de Eunate. This mysterious 12th-century Romanesque church is octagonal in shape, surrounded by an open-air cloister. Its origins are still debated: was it built by the Knights Templar, or as a chapel for pilgrims? Either way, it has an otherworldly atmosphere, especially in the silence of the countryside. Entry was just €1.50, and stepping inside its cool stone interior was well worth the extra 1.7 miles.

On the way there, Kate’s Merlin bird app identified a noisy flock of European goldfinches. Their chatter was so loud, it sounded like they were accompanying us on our detour!

By mid-afternoon we were back on the Camino, choosing the low route by the river (the mountain range could wait for another day – our legs had already clocked 15+ miles).

Arrival in Puente la Reina

At 4:50pm we finally reached our destination – Hotel Jakue in Puente la Reina. The place has changed so much since my last visit: new spa facilities, gorgeous rooms, and a very warm welcome. Dolphin (aka Cheryl) wasted no time in booking a one-hour massage, while I opted for a long soak in the bath. Bliss.

Dinner at 7:30pm was excellent – a generous buffet of salads and pastas, followed by hake or chicken with chips. Over dinner we shared our “rose and thorn” moments of the day – one highlight, one challenge. It’s always fascinating to hear everyone’s reflections, and a tradition I cherish on these trips.

And because 17.4 miles clearly wasn’t enough for some, a few of us took a stroll into town after dinner. Just four of us this time, but yes, more stamps were collected – definitely into double figures for the day!

By 9:50pm I was in bed, exhausted but happy.

🛰️ A quick note on the “animal” nicknames you’ll see in this blog! This year I’ve given everyone in the group a small GPS tracker to pop inside their rucksack. Each tracker is labelled with a different creature – bear, cat, dolphin, crab, ladybird, fish and so on. It means I can see where everyone is on the trail, while they still have the freedom to “walk their own Camino.”

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Closing Thoughts

The Camino is always full of surprises – whether it’s a brass band in Pamplona, unexpected conversations on a rocky descent, or stumbling across a centuries-old church that whispers of mystery and faith. Day 1 reminded me that the Camino isn’t just about the walking – it’s about the laughter, the connections, the little moments that you don’t plan but will never forget.

Thanks for following along with our journey. Tomorrow we set out for Estella… and I can’t wait to see what the road brings.

Buen Camino! 🌄🥾💛En savoir plus