DAY 2 – CAMINO LA RIOJA

The one with the stamp-collecting frenzy, the mysterious dog man, and the peaceful ruined church.

📍 Location: Puente la Reina → Estella

🥾 Miles: 16.4 miles

⛑️ Health: My left foot is now quite swollen, so I’ve ditched the KT tape and moved to zinc oxide for a bit more security. A few blisters have popped up in the group, and everyone’s flagging slightly… but spirits are always lifted after a glass (or two) of Rioja. 🍷

🌦️ Weather: Cool start but the sun came out with a vengeance as we rolled into Estella. An umbrella would’ve been a wise choice today!

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🍳 08:30am – Breakfast & briefing

Hotel Jakue put on a cracking buffet. Scrambled eggs with cheese, toast, and even boiled eggs for those who like it simple. After scribbling a few notes in my journal, we gathered in the cosy lounge for a quick briefing before setting off.

🌉 08:46am – The Bridge of Bridges

Before leaving Puente la Reina, we crossed the town’s pride and joy: the mighty medieval stone bridge. Built in the 11th century by Queen Doña Mayor, wife of King Sancho III, it was designed to help pilgrims safely cross the River Arga. Even now, standing on those cobbles, you can picture the thousands of dusty boots, hooves, and wagon wheels that have rattled over it for nearly a thousand years. Naturally, we took far too many photos.

🐶 10:07am – The incline & the dog-man mystery!

The trail started flat but soon reared up into a sharp incline. I was at the back fiddling with walking poles when I noticed a man ahead with a laminated photo of a dog pinned to his rucksack. Was it his beloved pup? A mascot? I’ve no idea. (See photo)

🫒 We passed our first olive orchards. I’ve never been a fan of olives, but apparently the local ones are the best in Spain. Maybe I’ll be converted by the time we reach Galicia. (Or not!)

🎵 10:30am – Music & queue etiquette

In the tiny village of Ziraqui, Michael Jackson’s Beat It blasted from a café. Stamp & coffee! Queueing for the loo prompted the inevitable “Brits know how to queue” debate.

😢 11:30am – The Zen Garden (or not)

I had been looking forward to a peaceful stop at the little Zen Garden… but it’s fallen into disrepair, weeds choking what was once a lovely resting place. A sad moment, and a reminder that not all things survive the passage of time, even on the Camino.

🐝 12:20pm – Lunch in Lorca

A glass of freshly squeezed orange juice and a Cornetto (nutritional balance, right?). Lorca also has bee hives producing delicious local honey. We bumped into Andy from Manchester again – last seen last night in a bar, wearing what looked suspiciously like a blanket skirt. No one dared ask why!

🌞 14:14 – Heat & holy shade

By now the sun was punishing. We ducked into a big church, where the cool air and three available stamps caused squeals of delight. Honestly, watching grown adults get giddy about stamps is one of the unexpected joys of this trip.

A small detour led us to a derelict old church. Just a husk of stone, but profoundly peaceful. We sat in silence, each lost in thought. Lou placed a stone in memory of her Nan – one of those Camino moments that sneaks up on you and lingers in your heart.

💬 4:00pm – Camino conversations

The final miles were spent deep in conversation with Tim, Andy’s friend. The Camino has a way of fast-tracking friendships: within an hour we were swapping life stories, things you wouldn’t normally share outside of these dusty trails. He peeled off to stay with nuns, while we headed across yet another handsome stone bridge into Estella.

🥘 Evening – Plaza life & paella

After a shower, I snuck down to the main plaza for some solo “me time.” Kindle in hand, I watched Spanish families stroll by, kids chasing footballs, and couples holding hands. Later, reunited with the gang, we tucked into plates of rich, saffron-stained paella, clinked glasses of wine, and played our usual “roses and thorns” reflection game.

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REFLECTION

Day 2 was harder than expected – hot, hilly, and foot-punishing – yet sprinkled with the sort of small, precious moments the Camino is famous for: silent reflection in a ruined church, laughter over stamp obsessions, and the comfort of strangers quickly turning into friends. Estella welcomed us with open arms (and good wine), and as I fell into bed, I thought: this is why we walk.Читать далее