Travel Day
Jun 10–11 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Let the adventure begin...
7.20am – I pick up Maxine and within minutes we’re deep in conversation. In fact, we’re chatting so much that we completely fail to notice the others overtaking us on the M11 (apparently they were bibbing their horns and waving like mad people, but no, we didn’t see a thing!).
Then again, we didn’t see them at the Long Stay car park either…..Mainly because we were in the wrong car park. Oops. Mid Stay here we come.
10.00am – No Adventure Geek airport departure would be complete without a visit to Wetherspoons. Traditions are important. Then we experience another tradition…. Flight delayed…
Still, eventually we board and settle into our seats. Happy days.
Fifteen minutes later another announcement crackles over the speaker by our captain.
“We will be remaining on the aircraft for at least another hour before departure.”
Apparently it was weather-related. Oh joy. I have a good book and watched Office Romance on Netflix.
5.35pm – First glimpse of Albania
Wow. I thought flying into Dubrovnik was spectacular, but the approach into Podgorica Airport was on another level. As we descended through the clouds, endless mountains stretched towards the horizon. Deep green forests covered the slopes, broken only by winding rivers, tiny villages and narrow tracks snaking across the hillsides. Somewhere down there were the famous trails of the Albanian Alps that we’d soon be walking ourselves.
It looked wild, remote and wonderfully untouched and for the first time I allowed myself to get excited. The mountains are calling..
5.55pm – Welcome to the heat
The cabin doors open and the heat hits us immediately. 31°C! The bags arrive surprisingly quickly and I’m now on the hunt for our driver. Eventually I spot him proudly holding a sign that reads:
EDVENTURE GEEK
Close enough. And we are off. Albanian driving commences and I’m immediately thankful for the travel sickness tablets that I consumed on the plane. We stop for diesel… €1.79 per litre, so they are feeling the pinch here as well. Our driver puts in €107 worth of fuel and we are soon back on the road. Driving in Albania is certainly an experience.
Under Albania’s communist regime, private car ownership was heavily restricted and very few people owned vehicles until the early 1990s. Today, however, the roads are full of cars and everyone seems to be in a hurry. At one point we were overtaking a lorry while a car headed straight towards us with its headlights flashing. Eeeek!
Border control seemed to take forever. Eventually we made it through and arrived in Shkodër, one of Albania’s oldest cities and often known as the gateway to the Albanian Alps.
As we stepped off the coach, Stephanie, Julie, Snay and Jennie were waiting for us waving Albanian flags. What a lovely welcome.
8.30pm – Dinner at Tradita
After a quick freshen up, James, our host for the trip, led us on a short walk through the streets of Shkodër to our restaurant for the evening. Tradita Restaurant felt more like stepping into a traditional Albanian courtyard than a restaurant.
Old bicycles hung from the walls. Antique farming tools and wooden carts were dotted around the grounds. Lanterns glowed softly in the evening light while vines and flowers climbed over stone walls. Traditional Albanian music drifted through the warm air and a lady sang nearby as we sat beneath the open sky.
It had the feel of a rustic taverna where people have been gathering, eating and telling stories for generations. The waiter was superb. He remained remarkably calm while sixteen ladies attempted to order dinner at the same time. Beer and wine were flowing, conversations bounced around the table and you could already see friendships beginning to form. I have a good feeling about this trip.
Tonight I tried cornbread for the first time, served with a warm cheese dip. I really liked it.
I wasn’t quite so keen on my pasta, which was rather salty, but the Albanian alcohol-free beer was definitely a hit.
Time for bed
Just as I was settling down for the night, our phones started pinging.
A message from James. The ferry timetable had changed. Instead of meeting at 5.45am, we now didn’t need to leave until 8.30am. Result!
Tomorrow the real adventure begins.Read more
DAY 2 – ALBANIAN ALPS ADVENTURE
June 11 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
The one with… Wild horses, a ferry through the mountains and Maxine’s AirTag rescue mission
6.36am - I’m on the hunt for coffee! Note to self, always bring your travel kettle! I find a cafe open and walk inside. It’s full of men and the chatter goes quiet and I feel all eyes on me. I say to the lady behind the counter “coffee?” And she says “no” and shoos me away. I am confused so I ask again…. Looking around and seeing the men drinking coffee… “no” she replies and then Carrie’s on working behind the bar. Ok, perhaps it’s a men only cafe? Do they have those in Albania?
Wow! Am I seeing things? As I continue my hunt for a coffee I spot horses on the street eating out of the bins! One has a bad leg. This is a strange morning!
Street dogs are everywhere. But they all look well fed and seem happy enough.
I return to the hotel as breakfast opened at 7am and I finally get my coffee. It’s strong coffee and does the trick! I’m joined by the girls as they appear in drinks and drabs. It sounds like everyone slept well.
Breakfast is done. After a bit of cat herding, we finally get everyone onto the bus and we’re ready for the next stage of the adventure.
8.38am – And we’re off!
OMG. They are playing a tourism video on the bus which appears to have been created entirely by AI. It features three glamorous women with perfect hair, no shoes and apparently not a care in the world as they frolic through Albania.
Naturally, we spend the next few minutes discussing how we could recreate the video ourselves in the mountains and meadows. Picture a group of 50+ year olds dramatically swinging our hair in waterfalls whilst staring thoughtfully into the distance.
I think we’d absolutely nail it. 😂
The drive continues through twisty mountain roads and then we enter a dark tunnel. There is literally only room for one vehicle so I hope nothing comes the other way! Then everything stops.
A police car appears in front of us in the opposite direction.
Reverse.
Apparently this is a thing and our driver takes it all in his stride.
Eventually, we get moving again.
10.16am – We make it to the ferry.
11.23am – And we’re off!
It’s difficult to describe just how peaceful this journey feels.
Lake Koman isn’t actually a natural lake. It was created in the 1970s when the Drin River was dammed to generate hydroelectric power. What they accidentally created was one of the most beautiful boat journeys in Europe.
The water snakes through steep limestone mountains that rise almost vertically from the shoreline. In places it feels more like travelling through a Norwegian fjord than the Balkans. The water changes colour constantly, from deep green to turquoise, depending on the depth and the sunlight.
People spread themselves around the ferry. Some chat quietly. Others take photographs every few minutes because the scenery somehow keeps getting better.
There’s a group from Canada onboard who are also heading into the mountains to hike over the next few days.
The ferry moves at a wonderfully slow pace and now I completely understand why it takes three hours to reach our destination. Nobody seems in any rush.
We play Qwirkle and Hannah wins.
1.30pm – Time for the next mode of transport. Another mini bus.
As we wind our way towards Valbona there is plenty to keep us entertained.
A donkey standing in the road.
A cow randomly on the footpath chewing a tree.
Another cow.
And then another cow.
Meanwhile, we follow the Valbona River, which is a stunning shade of aqua blue. The water is so clear it almost doesn’t look real.
2.11pm – We stop for a break and watch a group of local boys launching themselves into the river from the rocks. The water looks freezing, but the boys seem completely unbothered. What a fantastic place to grow up.
Another 45 minutes later and we finally arrive.
Unfortunately, my travel sickness tablets have clearly decided their shift is over. The last hour on the bus feels absolutely dreadful.
At one point I hear somebody shout, “Cute little train!!”. I can’t even lift my head to look.
The moment I step off the bus, however, I feel instantly better. Funny how that works.
We are staying at Kol Gjoni Guesthouse in Valbona, a family-run lodge set right in the heart of the Albanian Alps. And wow. The scenery is incredible.
Snow-capped mountains rise on every side and the valley feels wonderfully remote. The Valbona Valley sits within one of Albania’s oldest national parks and forms part of the dramatic mountain region known as the Accursed Mountains. Thankfully, despite the name, they’re absolutely beautiful.
We scatter to our rooms.
I lie down on my enormous king-sized bed “just to rest my eyes”.
Two hours later I wake up. Oops.
Still, I feel like a new woman. I head downstairs, grab a zero beer and go for a wander.
I spot Max, Hannah, Snay, Ann and Dee standing on the huge stone riverbed that separates the lodge from the road, so I wander over. They’ve had quite the adventure.
What started as a gentle walk somehow turned into a 1.5-hour expedition involving rivers, streams, wet feet, barbed wire fences, someone’s garden and a healthy amount of being lost. Apparently Hannah ended up with soggy feet after an unexpected encounter with a stream.
The hero of the story was Maxine.
Using the “Find My” app on her iPhone, she tracked the AirTag hidden inside her luggage and used it to navigate back towards the guesthouse. Genius!
6.30pm – Dinner.
And what a dinner. This was one of those meals that just kept arriving.
Bean soup (it needed lots of salt and pepper),fresh bread, sour cream, salad, lamb, roast potatoes, a delicious spinach and cheese pastry thing. Courgettes with cheese and tomatoes. The food just kept coming out!
Then dessert arrived. Sponge pudding with jam. Ann & Dee said it was just like their mum used to make.
The chatter around the tables is lively and everyone seems relaxed and happy.
With my belly full, I’m keen to stretch my legs. We’ve spent most of the day sitting down and my body is demanding movement.
I open the Geocaching app and discover there’s a cache about 1.5 miles away. Perfect.
Jennie, Stephanie, Paula, Claire and I head off along the road before crossing the river towards an old mill house.
It’s around 8pm by now, so we know we don’t have long before darkness arrives. We reach the location. We search. And search. And search some more.
No geocache.
By now it’s getting properly dark, so we admit defeat and start heading back.
Thankfully the torches on our phones do a decent job of lighting the way.
By the time I finally climb into bed at around 10pm, I’m tired but excited.
Tomorrow is hiking day.
And I can’t wait.Read more
Day 3 – Albanian Alps Adventure
June 12 in Albania ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C
The one with… the cat from New York, the café in the middle of nowhere and the singing on the summit.
Last night we had the thunderstorms of all thunderstorms. Lightning danced over the mountains, the thunder was so loud it rattled the windows, yet somehow it all felt spectacular rather than frightening. Despite the noise, I drifted off to sleep with no issues at all. It must be this mountain air.
7.00am - Morning routine completed. There is nothing better than journaling on a balcony with stunning scenery all around me.
7.30am- Downstairs, everyone is in the queue making lunch. There are bread rolls, cheese, rice, avocados, apples and a whole range of other things laid out on the tables. Breakfast is also a feast. The Albanians certainly know how to eat. Although, I’m not convinced they’ve mastered coffee yet. You could practically stand your spoon up in it, it was that thick and strong.
8.30am (ish) The next adventure is about to unfold.
After a guided yoga session by Maxine (wonderful) we pile into two mini busses which takes us to the trailhead. Calling it a road would be generous. It was more like driving along a rocky riverbed and how we all managed to stay in our seats I’ll never know. I’m just glad I took extra travel sickness tablets this morning.
Beep! Beep! The driver leans on the horn as he attempts to persuade several enormous horned cows to move off the track.
9.27am - The climb begins.
For the first section we are being led by a local Albanian guide called David who speaks no English and appears to be tackling the mountain in jeans and a jumper.
Apparently there are two routes to the summit. The summer route is currently closed due to a large landslide of snow and ice, so we are taking the winter route instead.
David is leading from the front, James is in the middle of the group and I’m tail walking.
It’s a slow climb upwards through boulders, pine forests and sections with dramatic drops into the valley below. And yes, there is quite a bit of hands down scrambling involved.
Suddenly I hear shouting from further ahead.
It’s David.
Then I hear a familiar voice..Kelly joins in.
“It’s not safe!”
“Wrong way!”
“Don’t go that way!”
Someone had spotted hikers across the valley taking the closed summer route and David was desperately trying to warn them. From where we were standing it looked tempting enough, but there was clearly a good reason it had been closed.
10.39am - In the middle of the mountain we come across a café. Yep, halfway up a mountain. How bizarre.
It’s a makeshift wooden shack perched beside a stream. The water from the stream feeds the toilet and keeps a large tub of drinks beautifully cold. They serve tea, coffee, snacks and even beer. Absolutely brilliant. And a very welcome break.
The weather is perfect for hiking. Not too hot, not too cold, with enough cloud cover to make the climb comfortable.
As the technical section is completed, we say goodbye to David. We have reached the point where the summer and winter routes meet, and James now takes over for the final push to the summit.
The mountains surrounding us are part of the Albanian Alps, often known locally as the Accursed Mountains. Despite the dramatic name, they’re some of the most beautiful mountains I’ve ever seen, with jagged limestone peaks rising above deep green valleys.
Summit Time - Wow. I dropped my pack and left it with those having lunch below, while a few of us climbed to a nearby viewpoint. The views were simply breathtaking.
One of those moments where photographs don’t even come close. I breathed it in thinking that my life has brought me here. How bloody amazing.
As we headed back down, Paula and I started singing:
“She’ll be coming round the mountain when she comes…”
Two other hikers joined in and suddenly we had a little international mountain choir.
12.45pm - Lunch with a view.
And what a view. Sitting next to me is a young couple carrying a cat.
Not just any cat. A cat called Apollo that travelled all the way from New York. In a backpack. 😂
The young lady looked a little shaken and soon explained why.
They hadn’t known the summer route was closed and had followed a guide who apparently didn’t know either. At one point they were crawling across snow and ice when the surface collapsed beneath them.
She genuinely thought she was going to die. All while carrying Apollo on her back.
The cat seemed remarkably unfazed by the whole experience.
She politely asked if they could follow our guide down the mountain. Of course they could. So we are now a group of nineteen. Plus one cat!
2.00pm - Once past the more exposed sections, the forest trail down was magical. Ancient pine trees, mountain streams and dappled sunlight filtering through the branches.
Then, as if by magic, another café appeared in the middle of nowhere.
Cat lady joined us and we got to know the couple a little better. Unfortunately she had a couple of slips on the way down. In fairness, she was wearing regular trainers rather than hiking shoes and this trail wasn’t exactly forgiving.
If I’m honest, the final hour was a slog. Knees aching and that shaking that you get in your thighs. The sun now beating down on us. One foot in front of the other.
5.30pm - We made it.
While James sorted out the room keys, Ann led a Pilates stretching session in the garden. This was followed by Maxine guiding us through a meditation session.
Absolute heaven!
If only I could book yoga and Pilates teachers on every single trip.
7.00pm - Dinner was another three-course feast. Soup. Salads. Beef and potatoes. Cake.
The conversation flowed, the laughter was loud and everyone looked tired but happy.
Life feels pretty good right now.
8.30pm - I retreat to my room and before long I’m off with the fairies.
What a day.
Tomorrow’s hike is longer at around 15 miles, so a few people have decided to swap walking boots for a visit to the famous Blue Eye of Theth instead.
Whatever they choose, I’m pretty sure it’s going to be another memorable day.
Until tomorrow.
Thanks for following along.Read more
Day 4 – Albanian Alps Adventure
June 13 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
The one with… the whole cucumber, the snowball fight with a dog and the border crossing.
SUMMARY
Today was our biggest challenge of the trip. A long, demanding trek from Theth in Albania across the mountains into Montenegro, covering around 23km (15 miles) of rugged alpine terrain. It was a day of breathtaking scenery, aching legs, tears, laughter, wildflowers, stray dogs, snow patches and more determination than I knew some people possessed. For many, this was the toughest hike they had ever completed. For all of us, it was a day we will never forget.
THE LONG WINDED VERSION
Walking from Theth over the Montenegrin border to Vusanje.
The day starts Albanian style Waiting. Waiting. And a bit more waiting.
Breakfast was all set up, but we had to wait while photographs were taken of the impressive spread. James has the patience of a saint as he desperately tried to explain that one of our group was gluten-free and could not have bread in her packed lunch. When Trudi opened her lunch later, there was a whole cucumber (not sliced!) inside and bread!
9.20am - An hour late, but finally we’re off.
It’s about a mile before the actual trail begins and some people are already nursing wobbly legs from yesterday’s adventure. I have a feeling this could be an interesting day. Thankfully, spirits are high and energy levels seem good.
THE HIKE
The first section takes us through rocky terrain and across several mountain streams (my feet are soaking and we’ve not walked two miles yet). The water is crystal clear, tumbling down from higher up the mountains, and the air feels wonderfully fresh. The scent of pine trees mixes with damp earth and wild herbs growing beside the trail.
It’s not quite as technical as yesterday’s hike, but it manages to kick our backsides in a completely different way. The climb just keeps going.
Every time we stop for a breather, I turn around and have one of those moments where I genuinely have to remind myself this is real. Jagged limestone peaks tower above us, green valleys stretch into the distance and waterfalls tumble down the mountainsides. The scenery feels almost too perfect, like someone has painted it.
Photos simply don’t do it justice.
10.35am - We’re all puffing and panting when a little oasis appears. A tiny mountain shack selling cold drinks. And an actual toilet. I immediately regret the wild wee I had five minutes earlier.
James points towards a saddle high on the mountain behind us. “Once we reach that pass it’s downhill and rich meadows.” We all look up. Then it dawns on us. We haven’t even put a dent in this climb yet! Onwards and upwards.
The ascent is relentless. The higher we climb, the thinner the air feels. The rocky path demands complete concentration because one careless step could easily send you sprawling. Progress is slow. But nobody gives up.
2.00pm - We finally reach the summit. High fives all round. A few tears. Lots of smiles. We collapse onto the grassy saddle between the mountains, shoes off, enjoying what is genuinely one of the best ham salad rolls I’ve ever tasted. Food always tastes better at altitude.
Randomly, there are three stray dogs up here. They seem completely at home. One curls up beside Dee and promptly falls asleep. Another settles against Ann’s shoes as though they’ve been friends for years. It is one of those wonderfully weird mountain moments that nobody can quite explain.
2.36pm - The descent begins.
Well… I say descent. That doesn’t mean it’s all downhill. Oh no. There are still plenty of cheeky climbs thrown in for good measure.
The landscape on this side of the mountain feels completely different. The harsh grey rock gives way to lush alpine meadows bursting with colour. Yellow flowers known as “eggs and bacon” sway in the breeze alongside deep purple blooms, vivid blue wildflowers and delicate orchids hidden amongst the grasses. The air smells sweet and fresh. Everywhere you look there seems to be another postcard view.
Then Kelly spots snow.
“SNOW!”
Within seconds she is having a snowball fight with one of the dogs that has now officially joined our walking group. This is quickly followed by a snow angel. It had to be done.
The descent seems endless.
At first we’re all admiring the alpine forests, flower-filled meadows and towering rock formations. But after ten miles over a mountain, even spectacular scenery starts to lose its novelty when your feet hurt. People are getting tired. Really tired. There are a few slips. A few falls. A few more tears. Several plasters are deployed. (Note to self: replenish the first aid kit.)
I also slip on loose stones and land flat on my backside more than once.
Eventually we reach the border crossing as we step into Montenegro. It reminds me a little of the French-Spanish border on the Camino in the Pyrenees. A simple trig point. Huge mountains behind.
No border control. No queues. No passport checks. Just mountains. And another excuse for photographs and a quick break.
7.00pm - The final slog.
We still have around three miles to go. We stop briefly at an old shepherd’s hut before continuing towards the famous Blue Eye waterfall. The turquoise water looks almost unreal, glowing against the surrounding rock. I wish we’d had more time to spend there. By now, however, everyone is running on determination.
There is nothing quite like that feeling when you finally start seeing houses in the distance. Civilisation and signs that the end is near.
Eventually we stumble into the car park at around 8pm. Our driver has been patiently waiting for us for a few hours. There’s no time to stop for food. We simply pile into the people carrier, with the remainder of the group following behind in another vehicle, and set off.
We’re so exhausted that it takes us a while to realise the driver appears to be driving around in circles trying to find his way out of town.
Had I possessed any energy whatsoever, I would have found this hilarious.
James eventually puts Podgorica into Google Maps and passs his phone to me as I’m sitting next to the driver. I hold the phone in front of the driver so he can see where he’s supposed to be going.
Apparently he was an ex-policeman. His navigation skills might have been questionable, but he more than redeemed himself when we reached the border. He somehow sweet-talked the border officials and got us through remarkably quickly. His driving, thankfully, was excellent. The roads twisted and turned through the mountains, but he took everything steadily and for once I didn’t feel remotely travel sick.
11.26pm - You should have seen everyone trying to get out of the vehicle as we finally disembarked!
It looked like eleven constipated human beings attempting to walk.
I had a complete fit of the giggles.
We check into the hotel. Some head off in search of food. I’m done and it’s too late for food for me. A quick shower. A little stretching. Then straight into bed. Absolutely exhausted. Absolutely shattered.
And feeling an enormous sense of achievement.
FINAL THOUGHT
One thing I’ve learned over the years is that adventure isn’t about proving something to other people.
It’s about finding the challenge that’s right for you.
Six members of our group completed yesterday’s mountain crossing but decided that today’s hike wasn’t for them. Instead, they headed off to visit the Blue Eye and explore the area at a gentler pace. From the photos and stories, it looks like they had an absolutely brilliant day.
And that’s exactly how it should be.
Some people pushed themselves further than they ever thought possible today. Others listened to their bodies and chose a different adventure.
Both decisions were the right ones.
Because real adventure isn’t about keeping up with anyone else. It’s about knowing your own limits, stretching them when it feels right, and having the confidence to choose a different path when it doesn’t.
The mountains don’t care how far you walk.
The important thing is that you come away with memories, stories and a smile.
And judging by today’s laughter, tears, snow angels, stray dogs and slightly questionable packed lunches, I’d say we all achieved that. 😊🏔️🐾Read more
