• Juliadoherty
Apr – Jun 2023

PCT 2023 - Prep & Trail

This is a journal which will take me on a journey. From preparation to the trail itself. Read more
  • PCT 2023 - Day 21 - Whitewater River!

    May 7, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    The one with the dangerous river crossings, a swarm of bees and a Mexican Wave with strangers!

    📍 Location: MM 219.5 to 232

    🏔️ Elevation: 4836ft
    🥾 I actually walked: 12.3 miles
    💰 Money: No money spent
    ⛑️ Health: I’m managing my blisters but it’s difficult with all these river crossings. Apart from my feet I’m feeling good.

    ☀️ Weather: Very hot, but the water helped. I dipped my hat into the river every 3rd crossing. DinkyDi is nagging me constantly about hydration and eating which I’m very grateful for.

    🍲 Food: A bag of M&M’s for breakfast (I know!), and a coffee. Around 11 we had lunch. I had chicken noodles with bacon and extra onion (yum!). Endless snacks and dinner tonight was a dehydrated meal surprise. It had potatoes in it and chicken. It tasted awful but I ate it all as I need the calories.

    💤 Sleep: Awful! I hope I sleep better tonight. It was too hot for clothes so I slept in my underwear but my skin was sticking to my airmat. I tried sleeping on top of my quilt but got cold. It was a restless night and I was pleased when the clock turned to 4.30am!

    🐍 Snake count: 9! We passed another rattler today (holding my breath as we did!)

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    🌄 6.30am I was up mega early so had a coffee whilst waiting for everyone. I’m feeling apprehensive about today as we have lots of river crossings to do and we have heard many horror stories about this section. I’m with a super sensible group and we all agreed to stick together through the first half of the day.

    💦 6.50am We (Me, Disco, DinkyDi, Joey, Erica, Edelweiss, Maddy and Crypto) reach the river which was meant to be low in the morning but right now it is raging! I instantly see why it’s called “Whitewater River”. I’m feeling nervous and I’m so glad I’m with good friends. Everyone is feeling apprehensive and Disco Daddy is the first to cross. He makes it look so easy. Once he is across, we all take to the river. DinkyDi reminds us to unclip our packs so that if we fall we can release the backpack easily. Disco Daddy shouts from the other side to remind us to have three points of contact at all times. Slow and steady we all make it over. If you see the video you can see how scared I was. There is one young lady left called Maddy who is stuck with fright in the middle of the river. Her walking partner “Crypto” explains to us that she nearly drowned in a boating accident when she was 16 and this river malarkey was pure hell for her. We all jump to our feet and offer support and encouragement as she makes her way across the river. She’s small, like me, so the force of the current was challenging. When she made it she just looked up and started crying. That got me and DinkyDi tearing up as well. I was still shaking with adrenaline but what an achievement. Wow!

    💦 7.40am - 2nd crossing. I won’t name them all but there was over 20 crossings today. My feet looked all wrinkled when we finally pitched up to camp!

    🎒 8.40am - We pass a lady who is hiking in the opposite direction to us and I stop to say hi. She totally blanks me and keeps her head down as she walks past me. I look up at DinkyDi and we shrug our shoulders. That lady must be having a bad day I thought. We later find out from Disco that the lady had fallen in the river and lost half of her gear. Blimey, she was having a bad day. She’s had enough and was heading off trail. 😢

    🐝 9.09am We are now on the mountain ridge and feeling so high. I keep stopping to take photos. What’s that noise? It sounds like a low flying airplane. “Bees!” Yells DinkyDi. And a huge swarm of bees flew over our heads. I’ve never seen a swarm that big before and it was simply fascinating to watch.

    🦶 11am - Mission Creek rest and late breakfast (noodles with onion, chicken and bacon). I snack on Snickers and tend to my blisters. The ones on my big toes/callus area have reappeared and it’s not pretty. Everyone is here resting up in the shade. We stop for nearly an hour, enjoying the scenery, filling our water bottles and escaping the sun.

    ☀️ Disco, Crypto, Edelweiss & Maddy are the first to leave. Our goal is mile marker 232 which is just 6.5 miles from here. We are in no hurry so enjoy our time by the river.

    🌳 1pm - The rest of the gang pack up and hit the trail. These water crossings are good fun and a wonderful break from the heat of the sun. The terrain constantly changes from wonderful rock formations to gorgeous forest trail. We plough through mud and DinkyDi says “some people pay a fortune for a mud bath and we get it for free!”. Navigation is often challenging, but the rock cairns were strategically placed and we didn’t have any squiggles today.

    🌱 1.39pm - The next section is saturated with a plant that we think is Poodle Dog Bush. It’s highly poisonous and everyone is walking extremely carefully. If you brush against it then you may end up with blisters and a severe rash which is not good. We are slow through this part and the conversation is very low.

    🦺 14:00hrs We see a man up the trail wearing a hard hat. He is standing right next to a big bush of Poodle Dog bush. “Hello” I said and thanked him for his hard work of clearing the trail. “Is that Poodle Dog Bush?” I asked. He shook his head and gave me a very long plant name that I’ve completely forgotten! What numpties we all were! 😂

    👋 Two mins after seeing the trail maintenance guy, we stumble across a whole group of maintenance people. Any excuse to stop and have a break I got chatting to them. They also agreed to do a Mexican Wave for my YouTube channel. How funny! I’m having the best day!

    🎒 We’ve now lost Joey & Erica and it’s just DinkyDi and I. Di has a bad shoulder which is giving her lots of pain. We do a makeshift shoulder cushion from buffs which help a bit, but she really needs a new pack that offers more support. These ultralight packs have no frame or load lifters so when you have 30lbs on your back it can be very uncomfortable.

    💧 We take it slow and steady and the river crossings are still deep. I’m up to my thighs at nearly every attempt. It’s cold but welcomed.

    ⛺️ 4.30pm - Eventually we make it to camp where Disco, Joey and Erica have been waiting for us. Disco has made our “dining room” which has become a regular habit. We love Disco daddy!

    🛀 6pm - Everyone is knackered so we retire to bed. I can hear the birds chirping and the sound of Whitewater River flowing. I take the opportunity to have a bath inside my tent. These super thick bath wipes are awesome and it’s lot long before I’m feeling clean again. Note to self: buy more bath wipes when you get to Big Bear.

    Tomorrow we have a big day. Over 16 miles and more water crossings! Bring it on!

    As always, thanks for listening to my rambles.
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 22 - Snow Angels

    May 8, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The one with snow angels, endless dangerous squiggles and a remote cabin!!

    📍 Location: MM 232 to MM 246

    🏔️ Elevation: 8500ft!!
    🥾 I actually walked: 14.4 hard miles!
    💰 Money: no money spent
    ⛑️ Health: I can feel the start of shin splints on the last section of todays hike so was glad to see the cabin. I’m not brave enough to take off the plasters and tape on my feet. I’ll do that when we get to Big Bear in the comfort of a hotel room. For now, they seem to be holding up.

    ☀️ Weather: This morning it was freezing, but it soon warmed up and I was moaning about the heat. By 4pm I had gloves on and was moaning about the cold and the snow!!

    🍲 Food: Snickers at 5am! Lunch was noodles and a packet of tuna fish. More snacks followed by Chicken stew and dumplings (dehydrated meal). I also ate my first Hershey Bar today. Yum!

    💤 Sleep: Pants! I’m sweating so much and the moon is so bright that I hardly catch a wink of sleep. It’s going to be a very long 16 miles today!!

    🐍 Snake count: 9 - no extras today.

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    👋 4am - wide awake. Joey is packing up as well and I wave him goodbye at 4.30am. By 4.50am I’m ready and head down to the first river crossing with my head torch on. I need to fill up with water but I’m not keen on crossing this river on my own in the dark, so I wait for Disco and DinkyDi who are only 10 mins behind me.

    🥶 We cross the river and my feet are instantly wet and super cold. Even my waterproof socks haven’t kept my tootsies warm. I tell myself to suck it up and deal with it. The sun will rise soon and before I know it I’ll have bone dry, warm feet.

    🥾 6.40am Disco has already taken flight so it’s just me and DinkyDi. We are both slow up hill and today we have 16 miles of incline! It’s gonna bd a tough day! We stop for an extra breakfast and Di swigs her cold soaked oats. It looks gross! She has an Ozzy saying “that’s terrible Muriel” as she shakes her head. We trudge on, climbing over blow down trees and more freezing river crossings. The views are spectacular when I remember to look up rather than stare at my boobs! 😂

    🥗 10.45am - DinkyDi and I stop at the creek for a long break. We crack open the stoves and have a hot early lunch of noodles with bacon bits which was a real luxury. We rest our weary bones knowing that we still have many miles of incline before we can rest.

    🤕 The trail today is relentless and my right hip is feeling the pain. My flutes are screaming at me and my right shin is also throbbing. But, I know I’m not in as much pain as DinkyDi. Her pack is digging into her shoulders and each step she’s in chronic pain. DinkyDi stops to stretch it out every 2 mins or so. She never moans and is made of pure grit.

    🚻 12.16pm - We finally reach Mission Creek which was our next goal for a break. We instantly take off our heavy packs and they land with s thud on the sandy ground. This alpine forest with its cute little creeks and floor Leiden with pine cones is gorgeous. I need a wee so grab my trusty portable buddy and go looking for a spot. I crouch down near a bush not realising how close to the trail I was. A guy from the. Netherlands called “Barry” waved at me just as I was pulling up my trousers! 😂 Oh well, it was bound to happen sooner or later. We fill up with four litres of water as this is the last water source for some time. 4 litres of water is heavy! As mentioned, Di is in chronic pain with her shoulder and needs a new backpack. She tried on a fellow hikers “Osprey” pack and likes it. Let’s hope they sell backpacks at Big Bear.

    🌲 The terrain is starting to change. The bare rock with bush is vanishing now and we are seeing more beautiful Redwood trees, soft pine needles on the ground to walk on. We sing and laugh, stop and stretch and constantly leapfrog Barry and his wife (I’ve forgotten her name). It’s a bit like a game.

    👼 13.18 We then come across a big patch of snow. Like a little kid, DinkyDi screams “Snow angels, come on Jukebox, let’s do snow angels”. So I set up the camera and we lie down in the freezing cold snow making snow angels. We laughed like children as the cold ice seeped through our thin shirts. We just got up and Barry and his wife turned up. “We’ve just done snow angels” says DunkyDi with a big grin on her face. He looked at our efforts in the snow. I must admit, they were a bit pathetic. Barry showed us how it should be done. He dived into the snow, made a perfect circle with his arms, and then his legs. He got us carefully and filled in bits with his hands as if he was making a sand castle on the beach. These Netherlands people know how to make good snow angels, but I think DinkyDi and I had more fun!

    ❄️ 15.10 Little did we know that the patch of snow was about to get ten times worse and I regret loosing one of my Microspikes. As we traverse icy cliffs with landslides to our left I shout out loud to Di “I’m glad my mum
    Can’t see me now!”. We are tired and it would be easy to make a mistake. It’s late afternoon so the snow is melting, slushy and slippery. It’s quite dangerous and Discos words are etched in my head. “3 points of contact”. I’m following DinkyDi and we are helping each other through a tricky bit. She stops suddenly after negotiating a blow down tree and looks up.
    We hear a voice from above and it’s Barry. “What are you ladies doing down there?” He bellows. “The fast road is up here”. Di looks at me and we both check the map. Yep, we’ve been following an animal track and not the trail, which is about 100ft above us. Squiggle! Oops. We can either double back over that landslide or be adventurous and scramble up the rocks. Scramble it is! Again, I’m glad my family can’t see me now as it’s not something I’d recommend!

    🥾 We trek on and it’s getting late and I’m tired. The trail was not clear today and we made lots of squiggles, traversed more “iffy” land slides and if I’m honest, I was questioning what I’m earth I’m doing here! I should be at home with my family, in my nice warm house, eating Matt’s wonderful jambalaya. It’s the first time since I’ve started that the grumps have appeared in my mind and that’s not good. I know this mindset is not healthy so I switch on an audiobook. I’m listening to “Never Finished” by David Goggins and it’s the perfect book to get me fired up for the last stretch.

    ⛺️ 5pm - Todays walk has been tough, so DinkyDi and I decide to cut it short at 14.4 miles and stay in the remote cabin. As we approach Coon Creek Cabin it’s looking a bit run down and not what I was visioning at all. Joey is outside and we high give him and ask if he is stopping here. “Yes, it’s a roof and it’s going to get cold tonight. I’m not sure if I’ll stay in the main building or one of the huts out the back” he says. There are bear boxes and fire pits outside. DinkyDi lay out packs on the picnic benches and go to explore. In Joeys words “it’s a good fixer upper”. He is right. This is literally just a big wooden building with no windows or doors, but it has three rooms and a roof as well as massive fireplace. The floor on the room to the right is all sunken and looks quite dangerous. Our friends from the Netherlands turn up and start pitching their tent outside. I turn to
    DinkyDi “what do you think?, Inside out?” She looks at me and says “how often will you get a chance to sleep in a derelict cabin in the woods in California?”. “Ok, let’s do it” and we grab our packs and make camp in the main building.

    😃 Joey and Erica make camp in the room to the left, and then in walks some familiar faces! Handyman is here with Kodak, Hops and Sorry! It’s so exciting to see them all and it raises our spirits. We stop to share stories in the trail and catch keith where our other friends are. Amber and Harry are literally 5 miles away so we may see them tomorrow.

    🐻 6.30pm It’s freezing so we all clamber into our sleeping bags. I’ve got my puffy pants on and I’m starting to feel toasty and warm. Di was adamant that we should put our food bags in the bear boxes outside but everyone else said that there won’t be bears around here. “But there are no doors and a bear could easily get inside” she said. No one wanted to venture outside into the cold so she gave in with the protests and we all shoved our food bags deep into our rucksacks as a way of preventing odours escaping.

    🐭 What on earth!!! There is a commotion from the room in the right and I look up to see Erica screaming and bashing her sleeping bag as if it was attacking her. “Get off” she screams as a little mouse runs around her and over her sleeping bag. It scuttles through her room into ours and DinkyDi, the animal lover, says “ah, how cute”! Everyone gets up at this point, grabs their food from their rucksacks and head out to the bear boxes outside. DinkyDi was right and we should have done that in the first place!

    8pm - snuggled up I rest my eyes and it’s not long before I’m fast asleep. Well, sort of!

    Thanks for reading my rambles. All the comments and encouragement is really helping. I schedule these posts so sometimes it may be a few days or even a week before I can catch up with the comments but I do read them all. ❤️❤️
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 23

    May 10, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    The one with the 250 miles, Goblin and a squiggle with a giggle!

    📍 Location: MM 246 to Big Bear

    🏔️ Elevation: 8535ff (Onyx Summit)
    🥾 I actually walked: 20 miles baby!!
    💰 Money: $190 on two nights in a hotel, $10 hitch, $40 for pizza, salad and hot chocolate (expensive!).
    ⛑️ Health: If I’m honest, I’m feeling it today. 20 miles was challenging and my right shin is very painful. I’ll treat my blisters in the morning and hopefully feel better after a few days rest.

    ☀️ Weather: The weather was freezing first thing but was around 20 degrees for the rest of the day. So, for me, it was a perfect weather day.

    🍲 Food: Snickers for breakfast (it’s all I had left!). Tuna and pitta bread for lunch and then a big hot pizza with salad for dinner. We’ve heard stories of people leaving the trail due to losing too much weight and not eating enough calories, so my next resupply will be more calorie dense. I’ve already lost quite a bit of weight and I can’t afford to loose any more.

    💤 Sleep: Bloody awful. Around 11pm we heard a loud noise, like a thud at the back door of the cabin (where there was no door, just a door frame). We were shitting ourselves as we thought it was a bear but soon figured out it was snow falling off the roof and landing on the concrete. The wind was howling all night and it was well into the minus figures. I’m glad we were inside and felt for those in a tent. It was an experience but I’m so looking forward to sleeping in a real bed with central heating!

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    🧊 5.30am Omg! It’s so cold. My fingers are not working and it’s incredibly painful to pack up my gear. I’m just thankful that I don’t have a tent to roll up! We are all very quiet. Erica seems to have recovered from her mouse incident and Joey is sleeping soundly. It’s just DinkyDi and I that are awake. I’m so glad that’s she’s and early bird like me.

    🥶 6.30am And we are off! My hands are warming up with my liners in and my deer skin gloves, but my feet are still completely numb. Our original goal was 11 miles today, then camp tonight. This will leave us with a short day tomorrow as we head into town.

    🥾 We have 600ft of elevation over a period of 2 miles, and then the terrain is downhill or flat(ish) all the way to Big Bear Lake. (Food, bed, warm!). As we stop to stretch and catch our breath I turn to Di. “What do you think about pushing ourselves today and try to get into town?” Di looks at me and says “that’s 20 miles!”. “I know, but town food is a big motivator and after we summit this section then it’s all downhill”. We agree that we will give it a go, but if it’s too much then we will just pop our tents up when we are tired. DinkyDi is like me and it’s good to have a goal!

    🐿️ 8.29am - This forest is absolutely stunning. We have the privilege of looking around us today rather than watching our feet. We sit for a moment and listen to the woodpecker and then we spot the bird on a fallen tree. A little chipmunk is with the bird and they seem to be working as a team. It’s fascinating to watch

    🏔️ 9.10am - After a gruelling climb we finally reach Onyx summit. A kind trail Angel has left lots of bottles of water here and Di fills up. For some reason I just don’t drink as much as everyone else and I always have spare water with me. I snap a photo of a sign giving details of hiker friendly accommodation in Big Bear and then we are on our way agin.

    🧺 12 pm - Knowing we have a big day ahead of us, we set little goals. We want to reach the spring that has picnic tables by lunch time. We roll up at 12 noon. Perfect timing! We have now completed 9.4 miles and it’s only midday. Our goal of 20 miles is looking hopeful. We are eating lunch with Handyman, Joey, Sorry and Hops. They are all youngsters and chat enthusiastically about the trail. Fully refreshed with food in our belly and muscles stretched, DinkyDi and I haul on our heavy packs and set off into the woods again. The trail takes us over lots of streams and we have to hop on stones and fallen logs to cross. It’s fun and distracting which is good.

    👧 1.30pm - We come across a group of youngsters sitting in a circle with a camp leader. They start to clap and cheer Di and Me saying “well done, keep going”. We stop to chat and DinkyDi teaches them the “leave no trace” dance which they all perform for camera (see video clip). What a great boost to our moral. With a hop and a skip we continue on our hike. Only 8 miles to go now!

    💃 2pm - We pass a second group of youngsters but they are listening to their leader explaining about the environment so we just continue on the trail. More creeks to negotiate and the trail
    is now going up! I thought we were done with the inclines for today but hey ho, let’s get this shit done! (Which is our phrase adopted from Pat Knight…. Thanks Pat!). We come across a wooden bridge and I say to DinkyDi “we can’t cross a bridge without doing a bridge dance”. “What’s a bridge dance?” She asks. “I’ve no idea!” I replied.
    I laughed “let’s make one up”. So
    We both danced over the bridge (multiple times and laughed a lot!). Our choreography skills were little to be desired but we had fun nether the less. “How far do we have left?” asks Di, and we both check our phones. Shit!! We were so far off trail it was unreal. How on earth did that happen? “Right, we have two choices. We either walk back to the trail which looks to be about 2 miles, or we continue on this trail and have a bit of an adventure. This trail looks like it might meet up with the PCT trail in about a mile or so. What do you think Di?”. DinkyDi grins at me “we are here for an adventure aren’t we? Let’s see where the path takes us”. We pick up our poles and with enthusiasm of the unknown we venture off into the hills.

    🥾 3.10pm - We can see the PCT trail way down below us and it’s on the other side of the river in the canyon. We keep stopping very few hundred yards to check the this trail is leading us in the right direction. We seem to be on track and the red PCT line is now getting closer to our green “lost squiggle” line. DinkyDi says “wouldn’t it be funny if we saw Handyman” as he left for lunch before us. We then hear the sound of hiking poles click clacking on the ground to our right. Blimey, it’s Handyman! How spooky is that? We start howling with laughter and the sweat is pouring off him. He has just climbed a huge incline out of the canyon and it looked tough. Our little squiggle saved us quite a climb but we tried not to grin too much! Looking at the map, we shaved about a mile off the route today. Now that’s a good squiggle!

    🦅 We are now 14 miles into our hike and it’s getting tough. Handyman has zoomed ahead. We spot a man sitting on a rock in the shade and stop to say hi. His name is Goblin. He’s about the same height as me, has a small beard and is 29 years old. He got the trail name Goblin as he cowboy camped in a cave. The name suited him. As we chat a huge vulture flew over our heads. Wow! I’ve never seen one that close before. They are gigantic!

    🥾 As we turn the next corner we see out first glimpse of the stunning blue waters of Big Bear Lake. It’s only 6.5 miles away but it feels close. As we are taking photos and stop to book accommodation as we finally have service. We are joined by Erica and Joey. There are now five of us all walking together in single file and the chatter is high. We are mainly talking about pizza, beer, wine and a hot shower!

    This last section down the mountain is beautiful but it does go on forever! We see a big off road vehicle parked on an old dirt road. It’s a good feeling to see some sort of civilisation as we emerge from the wilderness after days on the trail.

    🔨 5:30pm - A group of day hikers are heading towards us. I’m up front and stop to chat. This guy has a long grey beard, jeans and a heavy metal t-shirt on. In one hand he has a beer, in the other he is holding a hammer. Yep! A hammer. He seems friendly enough so I ask him what the hammer was for. Apparently they have been down the mines today searching for crystals. They have had quite a successful day. He is heading to Big Bear Lake and offers us a lift (it was his vehicle we saw about half a mile back). I wondered how many beers he had consumed so said thanks but we already had a lift organised from the highway (which was true as Erica had arranged a trail Angel pick up at 6.30pm).

    💦 With a mile to go I decide that I really do not need three litres of water. Why on earth am I carrying this much extra weight. Just as we start to empty my bottles and feed the trees Goblin said “I need water!” We all look over to him as the last drop plops out onto the ground. “ only joking” he said with a cheeky grin.

    🚗 6.30pm - A fantastic trail Angel called Jacob collects all five of us in his car. His has a cooler attached to a trailer at the back and gives us all ice cold drinks. He’s such a lovely man and he obviously enjoyed hearing tales of the trail. He drops Joey, Erica and Gobion off at Motel 6 which is just outside of town and then me and DinkyDi get dropped off at the Sierra Blue Suites where we both have our own room booked for two nights. (A big thanks to Becca, Sue & Debby for your PCT donation which helped pay for the room tonight, it’s pure heaven).

    🍕 8.15pm - We are all settled in and nip outside to grab a pizza. DinkyDi and I are both shattered but we know we need to eat. I order a medium ham and pineapple pizza and a hot chocolate (thanks to Emily for your donation). It was the best pizza I’ve ever eaten. I never thought I would ever crave for salad but the crisp lettuce with ranch dressing was devoured in seconds.

    🛌 9pm - I fall into the massive Queen sized bed and before I know it, I’m fast asleep.

    Thank you so much for reading my rambles. It’s been an adventure that’s for sure!
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 24 - Goblin

    May 13, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    The one with the Goblin trail magic, half naked men and a beautiful camp site.

    📍 Location: Big Bear to MM 286

    🏔️ Elevation: 7687ft was the highest today
    🥾 I actually walked: 15.4 miles
    💰 Money: $20 on breakfast
    ⛑️ Health: I feel good today!

    ☀️ Weather: Perfect. We were walking mainly through the forest so we had lots of shade and a nice breeze as we are up high.

    🍲 Food: A hearty breakfast of eggs, sausage, toast and hashbrowns. I snacked throughout the day, then had a chicken stroganoff dehydrated meal. Oh, and a tangerine 🍊!!

    💤 Sleep: I slept like a log last night at Motel6 which I shared with DinkyDi. I had purchased some sleep tablets from the supermarket (a bit like Nightnurse) and it seems to have worked. I’ll try it in my tent tonight.

    😃 People update: Amber is staying in Big Bear for a few days and then getting a ride to Wrightwood to catch up with Harry. Her knee was double the size!

    Remember the guy who left his shoes in Nitsy’s car, Jim? He turned up at our campsite tonight and was reunited with his footwear! He looks happy.

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    After an amazing few days rest in the wonderful Ski Resort of Big Bear Lake, it’s time to hit the trail. Goodbye Big Bear, it’s been a blast and probably my favourite town so far.

    🍳 7.30am - First stop… coffee and breakfast at Lumberjacks Cafe! We enquire as to what a Sloppy Joe is, but decide to leave that for another day. Instead we indulge and “carb up” with eggs, sausage, hashbrowns, toast and an endless pot of coffee.

    🥾 830am Breakfast done we’re on our way. We have around four miles of walking to do before we are back on to the PCT… going up! (Of course). It’s a dirt track so not too challenging.

    🎒 DinkyDi is now much more comfortable with her new Osprey Pack. She has sent home her heavy Jetboil and replaced it with a lightweight stove. Her shoulders should soon recover and her body will thank her, but perhaps not her bank balance. Ouch!

    🚙 9:12am We passed a man who was tinkering with his Jeep so I stopped to say hello and secretly wishing he’d offer us a lift up this hill to the trail. He didn’t offer a lift and was busy letting air out of his tyres so he could have done off-road fun.

    🐸 1154am We are up high now and enjoying the beauty of this forest. We keep leapfrogging a guy called Peter, but he is very quiet and doesn’t say much. As we emerge onto the ridge we are gifted the most amazing view of Big Bear Lake and the snow capped mountains beyond. It was a real wow moment. The trail starts to descend and we are now bumping into many day hikers. I can see why people come up here, it’s stunning.

    🏔️ 12.15pm - We reached a junction and to our left was Goblin. He had been to see Bertha Peak and said the 360 views were awesome. On a good day you can see Los Angeles apparently. He’s talkative but he tells us that he has not been well. He thinks it may be the water but he has been coughing, has a bad stomach and just no energy. He’s not really sure what it is but is convinced that it’s not Covid as he had the virus just before he started the PCT in late March. He walks with us and DinkyDi and I are mothering him a bit.

    🎶 “Can you hear music?” Asked DinkyDi. “I sure can!”. We turn the corner to see two very nice strapping men with no tops on, with two women and two dogs (Frankie & Tuckey). They are bopping away to tunes and enjoying the sunshine. Di asks if she can photo the dogs, and all four people, plus the dogs pose for a snap. Di notes the dogs names and she’s happy!

    👂 1212pm - Goblin is now way in front of us and DinkyDi and are are walking together. Today we have a similar pace. I stop to pick up an Apple AirPod which appears to have fallen out of someone’s ear. A couple coming towards us look as if they are looking for something so I stopped to ask if they have lost an airpod. Nope, it wasn’t them. I thank them and use the opportunity to check the map. “Bloody hell Di, we’ve missed the turning…. Again”. We turn around and head back up the hill for our bonus miles today. Bonus mikes suck! We found the turning, and then spot “Quiet Peter” who has done exactly the same as us. As he passes us he rolls his eyes. We are chatting to a young family when then next person to appear is Goblin! He also missed the turn! I took the lost AirPod out of my pocket and laid it back on the bench where I’d found it. Hopefully it will be reunited with its owner soon!

    🥪 1pm - I’m tired and was pleased to see that DinkyDi and goblin had stopped for a break. Goblin always lays down with his legs in the air and Dinky lays out her a Tyvek. I’m happy with my little chair! We are here, in the shade for about 40 mins. The highlight of the break was Goblin sharing a tangerine with us. Pure heaven!

    🥵 2:15 pm It’s getting hot now and the sun is zapping my energy. It’s another slow climb so I need a distraction. Garth Brooks, “Friends in Low Places” was the first song to pop up on shuffle. This song reminds me of Bubba on The Camino and I sing my heart out all the way down the mountain.

    ⛺️ 5pm We are now looking for a campsite. Our initial thoughts were Little Bear Camp Ground, but it was busy with weekend warriors and lots of PCT hikers, so we push on. Me, DinkyDi and Goblin arrived at camp for the night which is a beautiful spot by the creek. We have grass (a luxury!). We set up our dining room, spend way to much time watching a bug under a log and then eat dinner. We were just about to go to bed when Jim turns up! Jim is the guy who left his shoes in Nitsy’s car. He looks happy and was reunited with his footwear.

    😴 I’m snuggled up in my quilt and take a sleeping aid tablet. They helped last night so I’m hoping for similar results… night night

    Thanks for listening to my rambles. Xx
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 25 - A Tough Day!

    May 13, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The one with a mental challenge, fire bees and a surprise hostel.

    📍 Location: MM 286 to Cedar Glen Malt Shop

    🏔️ Elevation: max 6353ft
    🥾 I actually walked: 15.4 miles
    💰 Money: $22 on burger and milkshake, $80 on a hostel for the night. £62 on a cotton liner (Amazon)
    ⛑️ Health: Lack of sleep and poor food combined with the heat resulted in a bad day. I’m exhausted and there is nothing left in the tank.

    ☀️ Weather: Very hot. It must be in the 30’s.

    🍲 Food: This is terrible and I must make an effort to eat better. I had some breakfast bars, then nothing all day apart from snacks of nuts, M&M’s, snickers. We finally made it to the malt shop around 6pm when I feasted on a huge cheeseburger and chips followed by a chocolate milkshake. I know it’s not good (no lectures please).

    💤 Sleep: I’m really suffering in my tent. It’s way too hot. Goblin does not pitch his tent until the sun goes down as dyneema tents are like greenhouses. So I’ll try that next time. I’ve ordered a cotton sheet liner from Amazon which is being delivered to Wrightwood, so hopefully that will help.

    😃 People update:

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    ⛺️ 640am- And we’re off, wake up with my grumpy pants on. I feel like 💩. Goblin is walking with us. He’s slow at packing up, so he was awake at 3.40am to make sure he was packed up in time!

    🤕 740am - I’ve got a blinding headache and sinus pain.I have Sudafed in my pack but I can’t find them anywhere. DinkyDi is helping me look for them. I’m very grumpy now as I take everything out of my pack. Finally I unpack my tent and there they are! Phew. Tablets taken, and hopefully I will start to feel better soon.

    😢 830am DinkyDi and goblin are way ahead of me now. I’m way to slow for them today. I’m struggling with the heat and it’s only 8.30am. Knowing that I’ve got this all day is quite depressing. I find a shady area and get out my little chair. Had a bit of a cry and then check my phone. This high up I have service so I sent a text to Rachel. We chat and I tell her how I’m feeling. She’s amazing and gives me lots of support and encouragement. (Thanks Rachel). I nip to the loo, then I pack up with a much better attitude. Let’s get this shit done!

    💦 9.53 am - Holcomb Creek is raging and I’m on my own. Should I just sit and wait for someone or should I just go for it? I decide to go for it and keep my shoes on. It’s hot out here so I know they will dry quickly, plus I need to cross it again in another 1.7 miles. As I steadily enter the water my feet shrink with the cold as the river engulfs my shoes. I crab 🦀 across the creek using my trekking poles. I can see the bottom, which is great. It reaches my knees, so not too bad. I safely cross, pat myself on the back for a job well done, and continue along the trail.

    ☀️ 10.34am - Another water crossing and I catch up with DinkyDi and Gobljn. Dinky has been waiting for me which was sweet. Goblin has all of his stuff laid out in the sun. He had falling head first in the river and everything was soaking wet. He didn’t hurt himself though which was good.

    🐝 11 o’clock - There was a sign written by a hiker on the ground which I thought said “freebies” but it actually said “fire bees”. We looked up and the tree to our left was alive with bees. We stayed for a while as it was fascinating to witness these bees working so hard. They were loud as well (see video).

    🤢 12.10pm I’m feeling it! All these water crossings, ascents, blow down trees and the heat of the sun. I’m struggling today. My head hurts, I’m very slow and feel a bit sick. As I type we are 2.7 miles from The Malt Shop. I can do this! The mental strain is eroding the spirit (love these words, thanks Kimberly)

    📱 15.42 - We finally reach Splinters Cabin. DinkyDi phones a trail angel who can give us a ride to the malt shop where we can rest and have a burger. I’ve been looking forward to this all day. He also tells us that he has a hostel in the village if we wanted to spend the night. Here we can have a shower/bath and he will cook breakfast for us tomorrow. Goblin looks at us and said “hell yeah!. We are platinum blazing” (which means you are doing the trail in luxury!).

    🥾 The road is closed from Splinters cabin, so we need to walk another 1.7 miles to catch a lift. I’m much more motivated now. We need to do nearly 1000ft in elevation over 1.7 miles which was really hard work. DinkyDi was off like a shot but Goblin was struggling. He can’t reach his water without taking his pack off, and that takes ages. He’s still not feeling great and stops every few hundred yards for a break. It’s a slow and steady walk up the mountain and finally we see DinkyDi and the trail angel with a pick up truck.

    🛻 5.50pm - Dinky & Goblin clamber into the back of the truck and I sit in the front seat. He takes us to the malt shop and we devour food as if we haven’t eaten for a month! It tasted so good!!

    🏡 We are then driven to his hostel, which is actually a massive house on stilts with multiple levels. There is only us three here and we have a room each! I have a long soak in the bath and I feel my batteries recharging. By 8pm I’m fast asleep and I sleep through the night.

    Let’s see what tomorrow brings.

    Thanks to Bradley & Bess Camp for your donation which paid for my hostel tonight. It’s sincerely appreciated. Xx
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 26 - Hot Springs

    May 15, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    The one with 300 miles, long siesta and lots of naked dudes!

    📍 Location: Cedar Glen Malt Shop to Deep Creek Hot Springs (MM 307)

    🏔️ Elevation: 5328ft
    🥾 I actually walked: 12 miles
    💰 Money: $34 of resupply.
    ⛑️ Health: I feel great today. No pain or ailments.

    ☀️ Weather: overcast to begin with but then the sun came out. It was manageable today.

    🍲 Food: hostel breakfast of scrambled eggs, potatoes, red peppers, sausage, onion etc. Hiker hash! I then ate a big bowl of water melon from the supermarket. Lunch time I had noodles and bacon, then dinner was chicken and rice meal. Snacked throughout. I’m losing weight so need to keep my calorie intake up!

    💤 Sleep: I slept really well at the hostel and feel great this morning.

    🐍 Snake count: 10! We saw two more rattlers today.

    😃 People update: Our tramily has dispersed somewhat. Disco is now a day ahead of us. Amber is poorly so stayed in Big Bear, whilst Harry continued walking. (Amber will get a hitch to catch him up). Handyman is also ahead of us, and so is Joey & Jesse. I’m sure we will catch up in Wrightwood.

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    🍳 6am - We stayed at the hostel (which was actually just a big house that California Chromes grandmother left him when she died). It was good having a room to myself. I’m up and have a nice long hot shower. I leisurely pack up before heading down to breakfast. Lounging around writing my blogs, editing videos and watching the squirrels feeling relaxed and ready for the day ahead. Breakfast is served. California Chrome (Trail Angel)! has cooked Hiker Hash (see food description above). It was yum!
    DinkyDi didn’t sleep well as she was too hot and her fan in the room wasn’t working. Goblin also had a rough night, but I think that was more to do with a migraine that came on just before he went to bed. 😢

    🏬 7.44am - Our trail angel drops me, Goblin and DinkyDi at Stader Bros Supermarket so we can grab a few bits. I only needed a few things but $34 later! Part of my resupply was butt paste! Yep, that’s what it is called. I’ve run out of Sudocrem and even though I’ve not had Butt Chaffe for a few weeks, I feel prevention is better than cure! 😂

    🛻 8.30am - Dinky & Goblin hop in the back of the open pick up truck whilst I clunk click, every trip, in the front seat. It’s a very squiggly road back to the trail and I’m keeping my head down to prevent motion sickness. The thought of the two behind me bouncing around in the back makes me cringe (this just wouldn’t happen in the umUK). We pass a sheriff and I hold my breath, but nothing happens.

    🥾 9am - Let the hiking commence! We wave goodbye to CC (trail angel) and start the 1.7 mile trek back to the trail. It’s all downhill and easy walking. We reach a ford in the road and take our shoes off to cross. After drying my feet and putting my shoes back on, I then realise that I’ve left my walking poles on the other side of the ford! How frustrating. So I take my shoes off again, wade across, retrieve my poles, and cross back to once again to dry my feet. As I’m doing so, a fleet of five forest ranger cars pull up to cross the ford. If only they had arrived 5 mins earlier!

    🙌 945am - 300 miles baby! Can you believe we have walked over 300 miles of the trail! Only 402 to go! We (Me, DinkyDi and Goblin) celebrate with a Chandler dance in front of the little plaque.

    🦅 I’m loving the trail today. It’s fairly easy hiking and we are up high, following Deep Creek River which is way below us. It’s a strong river and flowing hard. It’s loud but beautiful. We have vultures flying above us and lizards darting across our feet.

    🐕 11.15am - Deep Creek break for water. We have caught up with the guy who is walking the PCT with a dog. It’s very upsetting as Sandy (dog) is so skinny and we think the man has run out of food. The poor dog is carrying a dog rucksack and the man tells us she’s not drinking. Both Goblin & DinkyDi try to get her to drink to no avail. DinkyDi is super upset as she is an animal lover. In her spare time in Oz she volunteers at an animal shelter. Di gets emotional when she swallows a bug so you can imagine how upset she was when she saw Sandy the dog in this state. She fed the dog some food and gave her lots of cuddles (through a few tears). The guy grabbed Sandy , picked her up and threw her in the river saying “drink some water Sandy”! He went on to explain that the dog had developed a fear of water in the last few weeks (probably all those awful water crossings!). What do you do in situations like this? No service, no-one to call? It’s just heart breaking.

    ☀️ 12.50 pm - We trudge on and I’ve now lost everyone again as it’s hot and I am slow. I’m sitting under a tree on a stone taking five minutes praying for the next seasonal stream which is just 2.1 miles ahead and then I’ll have a long siesta.

    🧺 1.30pm - Di is waiting for me as we make a little picnic area under a tree. We have fabulous views. Di didn’t want a siesta at the next water source as we knew that the dog would be there. Out of sight is out of mind. We have lunch, chat to hikers that are passing us and I edit some videos.

    🥾 3pm - it’s cool enough to hike out. Let’s get this shit done! Naked bodies…. Here we come!

    🐍 3:40 pm We are walking along a ridge and two German hikers that we met earlier call for our attention across the ravine. “Rattlesnakes ahead” they yelled! They had made a sign in the sand out of twigs and the written the word “rattlesnake” next to it. We stop in our tracks and then we can hear it. The first one was gigantic and must have been 10cm in diameter and 5ft long. It was ready to strike at any minute. The Germans gave us directions as we crossed the ravine (down a steep rocky decline and then back up) and stayed away from the trail. They told us that there was a second snake in the next bush so we dodged both. DinkyDi just takes charge and I was like a little scared sheep and just followed her, trying to keep my breath as calm as possible. Once we reached the other side the Germans continued on and we waited for Jordan (from France) who was not far behind us. We directed him, in the same way the German hikers had shown us and everyone crossed safely. That’s what this trail is like. Everyone looks out for each other and it’s one thing I love about hiking long trails.

    💦 4:30 pm. I’m nervous now as we reach Deep River Creek and it looks dangerous. We have caught up with the German couple (who we find out are a paramedic and a nurse in the real world). They helped save a woman who was swept away at Whitewater crossing a few weeks ago. She had hypothermia and a broken leg, with other injuries from the rocks. Jordan is also with us, so we cross together with the knowledge that we are in safe hands. I can’t see the bottom and it’s quite rocky so we have to feel our way across. DinkyDi went first and I was following her movements until she went a bit to deep. “Go the other side of that rock” she shouts to me over the noise of the river. Jordan and I do as we are told and we are all safely across. My shorts are wet up to the crotch but I know they will dry off soon. My Skinner Socks worked a treat and now I can dry my feet and put on dry socks and trail runners. On reflection, that was really really good fun. We’re now on our way to hot Springs so I think we should be there by 6 o’clock-ish.

    👋 1752hrs - “surprise” said a voice from behind us. We both turn around to look and we see “Nancy” waving frantically at us. Nancy is one of those women who has no idea when to stop talking and she always knows things better than anyone else. If you have seen the Bill Bryson film “A walk in the woods” then you will know the kind of person I’m talking about. She’s not malicious in anyway, and I’m sure she has a kind heart, she’s just a bit annoying. In a very two faced way I say “hi Nancy, how have you been?”. I catch eyes with DinkyDi who rolls her eyes and continues hiking. She waits behind me and I wave her on. “No, please go in front of me as I like to stop often and take video footage”. “I saw you guys over a mile ago and have been walking to catch up with you”
    She claimed. “Well, you caught up with us” I said and ushered her on. She was soon at DinkyDi’s heals and I could her her chatter as we hiked.

    🤩 There it was! Deep Creek Hot Springs! As I look to my right I see a tall blonde guy blowing up a sleeping pad, stark naked! Everything was dangling as he puffed breath into that pad, I didn’t know where to look! (Well, I did, but I shouldn’t have!) 😂 We continued walking and realised that we may be the only people here who had clothes on! Nancy vanished and went to look for somewhere to camp. OMG! The guy with the dog was here… naked! It’s one thing seeing strangers, but very different seeing someone you know naked! I only recognised him as he still had his hat on, and Sandy the dog was roaming around. We took off our packs and I looked at DinkyDi. “Are you going for a dip?” I asked. “Um… not sure yet”. At that moment a local came over and gave us the run down of the place. He was dressed in blue dungarees with a big white beard. He was obviously a regular here and told us which pools were hot and which were cold. He has been here all day. I’m just glad he had clothes on! Sandy the dog saw us and came running over. Di and I removed her harness (poor thing!) and it’s was red raw under her armpit. She was so skinny and Di was instantly in tears. The owner just didn’t seem to care. DinkyDi couldn’t resist and spoke her mind to the man (by now he was dressed). “This dog needs to come off trail” she said through her tears with a few snot bubbles coming out of her nose. “She didn’t sign up for this, it’s cruel. She has sores from the pack and she is limping. She’s hungry and dehydrated. Please take her off trail” she pleaded. He didn’t seem to respond much as
    he just said “she did 1000 miles with me last year”. I urged DinkyDi to come and soak her feet in the hot pool, which she eventually did.

    🍄 As we sit in the pool soaking our feet, a stream of naked dudes kept walking by. Then the drum playing started! A group of youngsters were high on mushrooms and god knows what else. They were playing drums and dancing which went on until the early hours.

    🥁 7.32pm - We are pitched up on a slope far away from the drum playing, although we can still hear it. We had to dodge the human poles of poo on the way up! It was really bad. I have a bad vibe about this place. Two people are behind bush having sex and the ladies head kept popping up and down. I looked at Di, “we are too old for this” I said and she starts laughing. “I need to get water” she said. So after we pitch our tents Di ventures back to the pools in search of clean water and I stay at the site to keep an eye on our stuff. Drums are still playing in the air and bloody mozzies are driving me mad! I think we are in for an interesting night!

    👘 DinkyDi returns with two litres of water in her hand. She tells me about meeting a drop dead gorgeous guy who was wearing a white robe and nothing else. (The robe was undone!). Apparently he looked like Hugh Hefner! She had to ask him where the pipe was for the water was and didn’t know where to look! 😂 she can’t tell the story without laughing and we are giggling like teenagers! She had to cross pools of people. Some were “spaced out” and she had to hop over naked bodies. One young woman was looking at DinkyDi and smiling. “Can I cross over there?” Asks Di. The girl said nothing but just continued to smile. So Di stepped over her anyway. “If I was her mum then I’d be worried!” She said as she explained the story. Eventually she found the pipe, got two litres of water and headed back up towards camp. She stopped to chat to Hugh again on the way up! (As you do!) lol 😂

    🐝 8.20pm - Meanwhile, I try to cook dinner but it’s impossible with all these mozzies. They are getting everywhere! I’ve swallowed that many that I probably don’t need dinner anyway! I give up and get into my tent and have a bath with my wet wipes! That’s better. Two mins later I hear a loud scream. “Shit, shit, shit” came the strong Australian accent! “You ok? What’s happened?” I asked. “I’ve spilt my noodles all over my tent. Those bath wipes are handy” she said.

    Needless to say, it’s been an eventful day and we drift off to sleep to the sound of a drum playing in the background! Until Di’s tent collapses on her in the middle of the night. But that’s a story for tomorrow.
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 27 - Echoooo

    May 16, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The one with the rainbow bridge, a spillway surprise, and a snake pit!

    📍 Location: Hot springs to mm326.4

    🏔️ Elevation: 3573ft
    🥾 I actually walked: 19.2 miles
    💰 Money: No money spent
    ⛑️ Health: Blister on my right heal after walking a long day in the heat.

    ☀️ Weather: Too hot.

    🍲 Food: Breakfast bar, snacks, orange, pasta with chicken for lunch, then noodles with bacon for dinner.

    💤 Sleep: I slept ok, but DinkyDi’s tent collapsed on her so she had a pants night sleep.

    😃 People update: The dog, Sandy has gone to Joshua Tree Inn for a day of rest. We have lost Goblin I’m afraid as he is just not well.

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    💤 6:30 am, I had a rather good sleep last night in the tent at the hot springs. I quite liked the drums in the background. Both doors of my tent were open and apart from a white dog barking at me and scaring me to death it was all good. Dinky Di’s tent collapsed on her so she didn’t sleep brilliantly. The pegs don’t hold well in this sand (which is why I use rocks rather than pegs). She was still holding up her tent with one hand at 5.30am today!! Bless

    💦 This hot springs place is weird naked bodies are everywhere, even at 6:30 in the morning. There was one woman sitting on the trail in a pink onesie. I said good morning and asked if she was ok, she looked very blank and didn’t really acknowledge me at all. I’m not sure what to make of it all. 😂

    🌈 730am - The trail is lovely today and we have a nice gentle, cool breeze. It’s easy going and the pace is quite fast. I have my stride on and I’m feeling good. We soon spot the famous “Rainbow bridge” - this is going to be fun! The rainbow bridge is quite long and arches like a rainbow, but also has multiple colours on the edges. I’m with DinkyDi so we do a rainbow dance on the rainbow bridge (all for YouTube of course!)

    🗣️ 8.53am - We are chatting and then we both spot the Mojave River Forks Dam ahead of us. There was a comment on the app to say that one lady had 15 mins of fun talking to herself here. Apparently the echo is something surreal. We’ve timed it right as the sun has cast a huge shadow against the right hand side of the dam, so we dump our packs and have some fun before making a brew. DinkyDi is the first to go. She takes a deep breath..,, “cooooooo weeeeee”. She shouts. The echo is bounced back multiple times and we laugh! Then the laugh is bounced back which made us laugh even more. It was such good fun, I felt like a child again. 10 mins later we are making a coffee. Two south bound hikers are now approaching and Di can’t wait to show them the echo. She gives clear instructions and the German couple spend a few minutes shouting into the spillway. What fun! They then gave us some advice about the next section of the trail “look out for the red bandana, when you do the river crossing”. We reciprocated, look out for the naked old men, at hot springs! 😂

    💦 1025am - It took us a while to figure out where to cross the Derp Creek River but eventually we just went for it. We didn’t see the red bandanna until we were half way across but it was not too late. The water was over my knees and the current was strong. It was actually quite nice to cross and cooled me down for a while. As we exited the river we both could hear the distinct sound of a rattlesnake. Actually, it sounded like more then one. We hurriedly dried our feet and we’re just about to set off when there was a commotion the other side of the river. We could hear a familiar voice shouting “No, Sandy, it’s this way”. The man with the dog was here. We knew Sandy didn’t like deep water and I knew DinkyDi would want to help. Plus, there was a rattlesnake or possibly two still making a hell of a rattle!

    🐍 Di shouted at the man to take off Sandy’s backpack. This time he obeyed and did as instructed. The crossed the river with Di’s guidance. “Do you have a dogs lead!” Asks Di “there is a rattlesnake ahead”. The guy starts to explain that Sandy just ignores snakes, but also knows that Di won’t let this go. He puts Sandy on the lead and we all head up the trail together. Where is that snake? We can hear it and it’s very loud. I on the bank is and unusual shaped box. Di saw a man doing something with the box a while ago and didn’t think anything of it. As we walked by we realised it was a snake pit! God knows how many snakes were in there but it sounded like a big gas leak! I didn’t take photos or videos, I just walked very fast!

    ☀️ 1230pm - I can’t go on. The man and the dog got a ride into town and are taking a few days off (phew!). This heat is killing me and I need to stop. We find an shady area in the trees with a little stream. It’s effect for a siesta! People pass us over the next few hours. We caught up with Jim (the guy who lost his shoes) Jesse and the two German nurses. Awesome break. It’s now 2:30pm and we’re on our way again.

    💦 315pm - We catch up with the German couple (Hannah & ??). Hannah is standing in the stream with just her bra. Her sun hoodie is in the stream. What a great idea to get cool! Both DinkyDi and I take our sun hoodies off and soak them in the cold water spring. It was a bit of a shock putting them back on again but boy did it feel good!

    🤕 420pm - Another river crossing but this time I wasn’t so lucky. I fell in as I slipped on a rock. It was actually quite cool and refreshing although my feet were rather squelchy.

    🌳 1818 after a hot day walking through the blazing heat, I’m now in a lush green forest, Dinky Di tells me it smells divine, though I have no sense of smell. The Sun is going down and it’s incredibly pretty. I’m exhausted but we still have 4 miles to go to the chosen destination of Silverwood Lake Picnic area.

    🌅 19:57 Wow! We created a peak and Silverwood Lake is presented to us . It’s absolutely stunning and we all stop in our tracks to take in the beauty. The setting sun is shining on the mountain tops and makes the lake glow. I’m very tired but we have half a mile left to go before we get to camp. I’m on my own Jesse and Dinky Di have gone ahead. I’m quite happy about that. I’m just walking at my own pace into camp and can see them both in the distance as we trek around the lake. This section reminds me of Loch Lomond on the West Highland Way.

    🏕️ 20.11hrs - We finally made it to camp. We have picnic tables and put toilets (a real treat). I’m past hunger but I force myself to eat noodles. Some fishermen gave us a few beers and a huge packet of Doritos to munch on. How lovely was that?

    ⛺️ I tried pitching my tent but the ground is too hard for the pegs, so we all decide to cowboy camp. Jesse is cowboy camping on top of one of the concrete picnic tables (I’d be worried that I’d fall off!). DinkyDi is cowboy camping underneath a picnic table. I’ve just set up on a flat bit of ground out of the way of everyone else. I look at the stars and then at the lake. This is so beautiful. I’m so lucky to be here.

    Night night. Thanks for listening to my rambles.
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 28 - Golden Arches!

    May 17, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    The one with a surprise in the desert and The Golden Arches.

    📍 Location: mm326.4 to Cajon Pass.

    🏔️ Elevation: 4000ft
    🥾 I actually walked: 19.3 miles according to my Garmin (the trail was just over 16 miles).
    💰 Money: $24 in MacDonalds and $97 for a hotel room.
    ⛑️ Health: I have shin splints in my right leg and I also now have a pain in my left foot. It’s painful to walk and I’m limping with each step. A blister has blown up on my right foot which doesn’t help.

    ☀️ Weather: In the mid 30’s! Too hot for walking.

    🍲 Food: Breakfast biscuits, snacks all day and then I pigged out in MacDonaldd with a quarter pounder with cheese, fries, Dr Pepper and an apple pie.

    💤 Sleep: I cowboy camped last night as the pegs/stakes would not go into the ground at Silverwood Lake Picnic Area. It was a struggle to sleep as I was sweating again and also people getting up to use the loo and things crawling over me.

    🐍 Snake count: 12 - Another two today (the count is not including the snake pit!)

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    🌄 6am - I’m ready before anyone else. DinkyDi had a terrible nights sleep under the picnic bench with mice running on her and people walking by in the night. She’s very quiet this morning so she waves me off and I walk on my own. Sometimes it’s good to have a day of solitude. The sunrise is gorgeous at is starts to peak over the maintains and shine down on the lake below. I’m getting higher and higher now and just taking it all in.

    🚻 8.10am - I stop to go to the loo and as I walk away I realise that I only have one walking pole. Oh no! Where is the other one? I walk up and down this last stretch but can’t find it anywhere. I’m distracted from my pole hunt from a voice above “Jukebox!!” Shouts a familiar voice. (DinkyDi), look who I’ve found…. It was Hans (Now known as “old man” as he he uses a napkin at every meal, even dehydrated meals!). We’ve not seen Hans since the early days and I assumed he was miles ahead of us. It was so good to see him. I instantly noticed how much weight he had lost. He’s lost over 20lbs already and has been poorly with a bad foot for a week or so. Both Hans and Di helped me search for my walking pole, to no avail. I made out that it was fine and I’ll figure something out, but in my head I was worried about the inclines ahead and how on earth would I pitch my tent with just one pole? The other two are faster than me. Di knows I need some solitude today so they were soon a spec on the horizon.

    👍 I’m enjoying the hike today. It has some climbs but there are no river crossings or blow down trees so far! Life is good.

    🐍 10am - It’s very hot now (must be in the 30’s) so I sit down in the shade. I have service so send a text and chat with Rachel. As we are chatting a snake slid past me while I’m sitting on a stone and I didn’t flinch at all. It wasn’t a rattler, it was about two foot long and an emerald green colour. I went to take a photo but it was too quick for me and slid into the rocks. I realise that my fear of snakes must be a thing of the past as I would have screamed and hyperventilated just a few weeks back! Rachel tells me how brave I am and I smile to myself. DinkyDi saw a bug kill and then drag a tarantula earlier today and caught it on video. There are some scary things out here!

    🙌 10:40 am “Whats that?” I say out loud to no one! Then I start laughing. Right in the middle of the trail is a trekking pole! It’s been staked into the middle of the trail so that I couldn’t miss it. It’s not my pole, it has been left by Hans as a gift for me. He only needs one pole and doesn’t have a trekking pole tent. I later find out that someone had gifted these poles to him when he broke his earlier on in the trail. How cool is that? Thanks, “old man” I owe you one big time. #TheTrailProvides

    🥵 10.55am - It’s way too hot to walk, but my end goal today is MacDonalds, so I’m highly motivated. MacDonalds has never been a motivator before but the thought of a juicy quarter pounder, fries, coke and an apple pie is super inspiring right now! I soak my sun shirt and hat in the stream and it feels amazing. If I’m going to continue in this heat, I must soak my cap at every stream I pass and drink as much as possible!

    🏔️ 1400hrs - Wow! I turned a corner to reveal the most amazing deep Canyon with striking cliff edges and snow capped mountains beyond. In the distance I can see the main Highway and hear trucks honking their horns. Macdonald is calling! 4 miles to go!

    💭 15:00 - The last 3 miles are challenging. The trail is winding down the mountain and it just takes forever. Its switchback after switchback with cliffs on both side of the 2ft trail. Some areas are quite sketchy and I’m so glad I have two poles! I still can’t see McDonalds although I know it’s going to be around here somewhere. The app said 0.5 miles. I’m day dreaming of a coffee maybe a chocolate milkshake and a McFlurry. Oh…. Yes! A McFlurry would be so good right now.

    👋 3:15pm - Finally I see a sign for McDonalds and the gold arches are glowing like a prize at the end of a marathon. As I walk into the restaurant I instantly spot Joey & DinkyDi. Dinky is shivering as the air conditioner is freezing. I’m thankful for the cool air but after sitting down for a few mins I do put my fleece on. We catch up and I order food. No-one has seen Hans or heard from Jesse. He was still asleep on the picnic bench when Di left the campsite this morning.

    🍔 As my teeth sunk into a juicy quarter pounder I savoured every bite. It tasted so good after days of dehydrated food (actually, it’s only been two days but feels like forever!).

    🍟 4.30pm - I sent Jesse a text to check that he is ok. “I’m 2.5 miles away” he replied. “Ok, we will wait for you” I text back. He arrived limping and looking a big beat up but was in good spirits. He ordered some food and sat down with us. There is now a big group of hikers in MacDonalds. We’ve been here for hours!! Free refills, air conditioning and running toilets will do that to a hiker!!

    🏨 Decision made. Jesse and I are going to stay at The Cajon Pass Inn (just across the way) for the night. I need to rest my shin and foot, plus the pole that Hans gave me is broken. The pole won’t adjust for my tent and I don’t want to cowboy camp tonight. I need sleep!

    👋 Jesse and I wave goodbye to the group as they trek on for another few miles to camp for the night. We then check in at the hotel across the road.

    🚿 I’ll make a decision about the next section tomorrow. For now it’s a hot shower and an early night in a real bed.

    🙏 Thank you to Pat Knight, Claire Whitehead and Karen Balloch for your donations today. The hotel and food were just what I needed. ❤️❤️
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 29 - HIGHWAY WALK!

    May 19, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The one with the apocalypse highway the hail storm and snow traversing.

    📍 Location: Wrightwood to Angeles National Forest (campground).

    🏔️ Elevation: approx 8600ft
    🥾 I actually walked: 22.1 miles
    💰 Money: $5 on a shared hitch
    ⛑️ Health: Feeling really good, even after 22 miles!

    ☀️ Weather: weird! A real mix of overcast, then hail storm, then thunderstorms followed by scorching heat!

    🍲 Food: Toast with jam and fried potatoes (left over from yesterday). Lunch I had chicken noodles and dinner I had dehydrated scrambled eggs and sausages with onion and peppers (it wasn’t too bad).

    💤 Sleep: I slept well in the cabin. Let’s hope I sleep ok in my tent tonight.

    😃 People update: It’s Maddies birthday today so I hope we catch up with her. She’s 26 years young.

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    🛻 7am - We patiently wait outside of our cabin for a trail angel called Brian to collect us. He has a massive truck and we pile our backpacks into the back. Two hikers are already inside, Pather and another lady that I do t recognise. We chat about our last few days in Wrightwood and how much we enjoyed the farmers market and wine festival. Before we know it Brian is stopping the truck and we are at Inspiration point, the start of our next section. Let’s get this shit done! Our goal today is 15 ish miles.

    🏔️ 741am The trail this morning is gorgeous. Mount Baden Powell and Mount Baldy (where the famous actor went missing earlier in the year) is towering above us. We are weaving through the forest with small sections of melting snow. It’s not too hot and our pace is fast. We are all a bit concerned about young Maddie whose birthday it is today. She ventured up here yesterday and got caught in the thunderstorm. Wow! I just passed a sign that says Canada 2277 miles, Mexico south 373 miles. I guess I’ve walked 373 miles so far (give it take a few squiggles).

    🌵 906.am - A section hiker joins us. He walks as fast as he talks “check out the DevilsPunchbowl” he shouts as he points over to the right at a clearing. I stop for a minute and take in the scene. The Mojave desert looks so vast and spreads as far as the eye can see. We will be crossing that in about a week and I’m not looking forward to it.

    🐐 921am - We reach a campground with out toilets and picnic tables. We are about 4 miles in to our hike and it’s a good place for a first quick break. Me, Joey and DinkyDi and enjoying the day so far but that is just about to change. DinkyDo spots a sign that says “beware of roaming goats” and gets all excited. She is keen to see a long horned goat on this adventure.

    💦 945am - From the picnic area we head up the disused highway. It’s been closed for some time as there are landslides and snow blocking the road. The highway goes on for 34 miles so we have a long way to go! A good few miles in (going up) and we all need water. We can hear water flowing hard but none of us can see it. Eventually we find a stream which is flowing well and we all filter up.

    🚗 1140 am - This highway has a strange vibe. I feel like I’m in an apocalypse as we trudge along the empty road and clamber over rock slides. It’s like time has stoped still. I’m ahead of Joey & DinkyDi now. I quite like the road walking. With exception to the snow sections and the landslides, it’s easy walking and we have stunning views to our right over the desert floor and mountain ranges to our left with snow capped forest trails.

    👮‍♀️ I’ve stopped for a break on the highway as a sign above me saying $1000 fine for littering. Funny, as who would police that? I’m gonna wait here for Joey and Di and rest my feet for a while.

    ⛈️ 1pm - Yeah we found Maddy! She didn’t go all the way up Ben Powell yesterday as the storm came in. She hunkered down in her tent after the heavens opened and watched the lightning. She’s 26 years old and has such a sense of adventure. She was wise to pitch up and then not climb the mountain. I’m glad we’ve caught up with her and that she’s safe. WThe four of us are now walking the highway and the sun is now hiding behind dark clouds. I prefer the temperature but I’m a bit concerned that those dark clouds will turn to rain. I’ve still got my umbrella up and it’s not long before I’m hearing the pitter patter of raindrops on my brolly. ☔️ Everyone stops to put on their rain gear (mine is at the bottom of my pack so I decide to just stick with my umbrella for now). DinkyDi had sent her rain jacket in her bounce box so only had an emergency poncho in her pack. She looks like she is about to go on the water flume and DisneyLand! 😂

    🌧️ 138pm - It’s now thundering and the rain has turned to hail. Everyone carry’s on walking but I stop to dig out Mg rain jacket from the bottom of my pack. I’m behind everyone now but I feel so much better.

    ❄️ 210pm - The rain continues and we also have to cross snow packed sections on the road which are a bit sketchy. We take our time and use our poles to negotiate the tricky sections. We have caught up with other hikers now which is fun and helps the pas the time on the Highway. DinkyDi spots the poisonous poodle dog bush plant, which we all avoid like the plague. Then Maddie shouts out “look, tree pimples!” And we see lots of little mushrooms growing from the trees. This area has been burnt so most of the trees are black and rather sad.

    🥪 2.25pm - We reach Islip Saddle which has a pit toilet and picnic benches. It’s a great place for lunch so we fire up our stoves and I enjoy hot noodles with tuna.

    🐸 The road goes on and on. We reach a notice saying “PCT closed due to protection of an endangered yellow legged frog”. Apparently it is nearly extinct so they are protecting the land.

    🎤 3.20pm - The highway takes us through two large tunnels and we have fun singing and shouting echooooo. Big kids!

    ⛺️ 5.20pm - Finally, we decide to camp for the night. Just me and DinkyDi. Maddie and Joey have carried on but after 22.1 miles, we are pooped! We have lovely campground with toilets which is a bonus. We set up camp, enjoy a dehydrated meal together and by 7pm it’s hikers midnight and we are off to bed. I watch an episode of breaking bad but I don’t see the end as I’m fast asleep.

    😴 Night night.
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 30 - 28 miles!

    May 22, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    The one with the 400 miles, a record 28 miles, and where is DinkyDi?

    📍 Location: MM 396 to MM 427
    🥾 I actually walked: 27.9 miles! My longest day so far.
    💰 Money: No money spent
    ⛑️ Health: I feel great! No pains at the moment but I may feel differently in the morning!

    ☀️ Weather: Hot

    🍲 Food: Not enough!

    💤 Sleep: Slept quite well considering I’m still really hot and sticky!

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    🌄 6.13am - I woke up to a fabulous sunrise. We collect our rucksacks from the toilets (good thinking DinkyDi, bears are unable
    to open doors!!), we pack up quickly and we are off! Bye bye campsite. You were a good one!

    🏔️ 635am - The first section of the trail is all uphill. We reach Cloudburst summit with an elevation, 7018 feet and my heart is pounding.

    👃 I notice that this is the first morning that I’ve woken up without a bloody nose. I’m not sure why I’m getting nose bleeds but they seemed to have stopped now.

    🌲 We are walking through another gorgeous forest of Redwood and Pine trees. It feels so good to be back on the trail and away from the highway. After negotiating a few creek crossings we finally spot the 400 mile marker (well, DinkyDi spotted it as I walked right past it!). Photos snapped and high fives done for doing 400 miles, then we are off again.

    🥾 DinkyDi is on a mission today. She is walking behind me but is right up close and I can hear her every step. I step to the side and ask her to overtake me which she does. We walk together for around 4 miles and then the heat is so intense that I shift into a lower gear and she is now way ahead of me.

    🦁 10.36am - I’m 10 miles done and sitting under a huge Redwood tree enjoying some shade. I take my shoes off and wave goodbye to “Worthy” as he passes me. Looking at the map, I now have 4.6 miles of uphill, so I decide to stay here a bit longer and camel up, eat some snacks and get ready for the climb. DinkyDi is well gone now so I’ll be solo hiking this next section. Apparently there is a lot of mountain lion activity in this area so in need to be on my “A” game.

    🌵 11.30am - I’ve sat here for nearly an hour and I really should get going! My end goal today is the Fire Station and it’s still a long way to go! I exit the forest and I suddenly feel very much back in the desert. I’ve decided that I really don’t like walking in the desert. The sand gets in your toes, the lizards make you jump, the snakes are around each corner and its frigging hot! I’m now hiking in an exposed area and the sun is beating down on me. I’ll put my umbrella up once I get to the top of this hill.

    🥾 1:00pm I reach a crossroads. The PCT goes straight up! (Raises eyebrows) so my inquisitive mind wonders where the nice paved road to the left goes! I open my app and check out the map. Ah! It’s a blue route (an alternate trail that is also the PCT. It’s a bit longer but stays on the road which is currently out of service). This route contours the mountain rather than going up and down it. I have a battle with my subconscious. Is is cheating if I take the longer, but easier route? I know that DinkyDi would be following the main PCT but there is no way I’ll catch her up after my long break. This way I have a fighting chance. Decision made, and I turn left and head along the road.

    ⛈️ 1.15pm - I’m now at 14 miles into the track I can hear thunder. I’m so glad I took the road and I hope everybody is okay up in the mountain. I’ve only got another five or 6 miles left before I reach the fire station thingy, I’m looking forward to ordering pizza! (Apparently they deliver pizza there!).

    🤩 2:20 pm, I’m taking a quick break and sitting on a stone looking out at the most amazing views over the desert and the forest. I can see the fire station below. It’s not that far, maybe 3 miles. “Ping” I suddenly have service and my phone is going off like fireworks, ping, ping, ping ping! I have a quick conversation Paul Coxon (walk leader back home) thanks Paul he doing a cracking job along with all the others who are supporting me whilst I’m away. It’s humbling to read the WhatsApp conversations and also makes me wonder if I’m actually needed in the business!

    📱 I message Rachel, Matt and my mum and then I’m on my merry way again with a pep in my step.

    🚽 Oh no, I need the loo, and not a number one. I’m on a dirt road with no bushes or trees to hide behind. What should I do? I’ve not seen a soul for hours, so, right there on the track I dig a cat hole and do what needs to be done. My little bidet is awesome! Just as I’m hauling my rucksack on my back a guy comes around the corner on a bicycle! Blimey, if he had turned that corner just two mins earlier then he would have had a shock! He chats for a while and confirms that the building below is the fire station. He continues on his bike up the hill and I skip down the mountain!

    👋 3.00pm - Yey! Maddie waves at me and shouts “free soda!!” I make my way around the back of the fire station and see a sea of familiar faces and some new ones. Sketch is here eating pizza! He kindly offers me a slice. Im so tempted, but it’s covered in olives and I’m not keen on olives so graciously decline. I still get a big hug though which was great. Joey, Erica and a few others are here, but no DinkyDi. Im sure she won’t be long, I say to myself. No one else has seen her today. I grab a free can of ice cold coke and plonk myself down at the picnic table. A guy called Bobby is here (nice chap) and I also chat to a guy wearing a kilt called Dundee. (Yep, he was Scottish!). I decide to wait for DinkyDi and wave people goodbye. The only person left is Bobby as he is leaving around 5pm and doing some night hiking. My plan is to walk about 2 miles and then pitch up (unless DinkyDi has other plans when she gets here).

    🥾 5pm - I’ve waited nearly two hours for Di, so I’m guessing she has either pitched early or she has bypassed the fire station. I’ve still got a few miles to do so I think I’ll make a move. Bobby left a few mins ago so I’m here on my own, and I don’t want to pitch in the dark.

    ⛺️ 6.10pm - I walk down to the next picnic area and cross the road. Looking at the map, there is another dirt road that mirrors at PCT but cuts out quite a bit of elevation. It rejoins the PCT at mile marker 421, where I decide is the perfect place to camp. The hike up is easy and I’m surprised how much energy I’ve got. I’ve already completed over 20 miles as I reach my spot. I get my little chair out and take a seat before I start unpacking. I hear a noise coming from the trail. “Hi Bobby” I say. He looks surprised to see me. “How on earth did you get there?” He asks. “I took the road, it’s an easy route”. Bobby takes off his pack and sits on the ground next to me. He gets out his map (he’s a paper map guy) and study’s it for a while. “Hey, that road leads all the way to the ranger station which is my goal for tonight. It’s about 14 miles”. “Sounds like a plan” I said and wished him well. 5 mins later I decide that camping on my own on the side of the road is perhaps not such a good idea. I put my chair away, haul on my rucksack and head up the road. I’m feeling full of energy so I think I may be able to catch up with Bobby. Sure enough, 20 mins later we are walking together and talking about everything and anything. He started his PCT in early March and has some great stories to tell. He worked for Google before retiring early to do the PCT. We chatted for ages and the miles just flew by. We spot deer prints in the sand and take photos of the amazing pink, purple and orange sunset. We turn a corner and I can see two tents pitched up. I recognise one tent “Worthy” but not sure who the other was?. It’s now 8.30pm and I’ve walked nearly 28 miles. “That’s me done for the night, thanks for the company Bobby”. “It’s my pleasure” he said, and with a wave he continued along the road. I pitched up as quietly as I could and Worthy popped his head out of his tent to say hi.

    What a day. I’m still worried about DinkyDi as I’ve not heard from her. I sent her a WhatsApp to say that I hope she is ok and I’m at mile marker 427. I hope to catch her tomorrow.
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 31 - Snake Repellent!

    May 22, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    The one with the amazing clouds, snake repellent and a cold beer!

    📍 Location: MM 427 to Acton.

    🏔️ Elevation: 6524ft
    🥾 I actually walked: 19.3 miles
    💰 Money: $25 for a burger and beer, $20 for the campground.
    ⛑️ Health: I’m feeling absolutely brilliant. No issues at the moment at all.

    ☀️ Weather: Overcast and cool in the morning, then hot 🥵 in the afternoon (but I’m coping much better in the heat now).

    🍲 Food: Breakfast bar, noodles and tuna for lunch (I’m fed up of tuna!), then burger 🍔 for dinner.

    💤 Sleep: on and off all night.

    😃 People update: I’m worried about DinkyDi. I’ve had no response from my messages which is unlike her. She’s either lost power or not had service since yesterday.,

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    🌄 6:40 am. I had a rather restless night (hot sweats again) but I didn’t wake up until 5.30am. I packed up slowly and was on the trail by 6.30am. Worthy was camped next to me and we had a chat before he left. He did a long day yesterday as well, but he was keen to walk on his own. He said walking with others was causing him some anxiety about keeping up and not stopping to enjoy the journey. I completely get that. I also enjoy the solitude of hiking solo, but it’s nice to camp with others in the evening.

    🥾 736am - As Worthy took the PCT route, I looked at the map. I decided to continue on the dirt road as it merged with the PCT in a few miles and it would be nice to see the views rather than looking at my boobs or feet all the time. Looking at the footprints, I’m not the only one who has taken this route.

    🛻 I hear the sound of a truck coming up behind me. The road was closed so I was curious as to who it was. It was actually two trucks, with trail maintenance rangers. They stopped to chat saying that I’d chosen a good route as the PCT is heavy with brush and bracken at the moment. “It will tear your legs up!”
    he said with a grin. “We are clearing it slowly and the section towards Messenger Flat Campground is now clear”.

    ☁️ I’m really enjoying the walk today. The weather is cool and there is a light wind. Below is the most incredible cloud inversion that stays with me for a few hours before it finally dispersed.

    🏔️ 747am - I’ve got to the top of the a summit (over 6000ft) and the views I just can’t describe it. Just looks like the ocean over the desert. Sorry for sounding like a scratched record but it was a spectacular view.

    👋 I’m now 6500 feet and it’s all down here from here all into the town of Acton. (Or so the elevation profile on the map would have you think!).

    🌲 830am - I’m now back on the PCT trail and I feel right at home! I’m dodging cliff edges, climbing over blow down trees, scraping my body and my pack through the brush. Oh the joy! Where is my hiking buddy? I’m missing DinkyDi right now.

    🌵 9:34am - I’m back on a dirt road with amazing views over mountains and the desert. I’ve not seen a single person in the last two hours. I’m just on my own and it’s very peaceful. I’m listen to the birds, watch the lizards dart across the road. Apparently the ones that look like sand and are a form of toad, not a lizard, and they squirt blood out of their eyes when I’m danger! I stay away from those ones!

    🎒 My backpack is having some issues on my body. It’s not the backpack (Atom Pack) it’s me. I’ve lost so much weight, that the hip belt is just not holding place anymore. I’ve also lost fat around my hips so it’s laying on the bone and is quite sore. Hey Ho! Onwards and upwards. Acton is not that far away now I think it’s probably about 10 miles.

    🧺 11.30am - Reached the North Fork Rangers Station. Joey & Maddie are here as are the English couple Jason & Sophie. I rest here for about an hour or so. Still no word from DinkyDi.

    🐍 2pm - I keep leapfrogging a nice German couple (Hannah & Darian). Darian is a paramedic and Hannah is a nurse. As I turn a corner on a switchback they are in the middle of the trail and spraying each other from a bottle (the sort you see in a hairdressers when they want to just wet your hair). I’m curious and ask “what’s in the bottle?”. Darian has a sever phobia of snakes. It’s 100 times worse than my phobia and it’s ruining his hike. Every branch or twig is a snake, every cricket or bird in the bushes is a snake. He’s not sleeping as he is worried about snakes. Darian explained “someone in Wrightwood told us that snakes hate vinegar and olive oil, so we are spraying our legs every few hours. We’ve not seen a snake today so we think it’s working. Do you want some?” He asks. “Why not?” I said and turned around so he could spray the bottom of my legs and gaiters. “Blimey, that stinks!” I said, making a scrunching with my nose. “We hope the snakes think the same” said Hannah with a smile. All three of us stank our way down the mountain….. snake free!

    💦 2:35 pm, I’ve just reached Mattox Canyon Creek but I don’t need water as I filled up at the Ranger Station. Instead I dunk my cap in the cold water and put it back on my head….. brrrrr now that’s cold but oh so good! The canyon now goes up… of course it does!!

    🚗 4.26pm - Finally, I reached the car park and I’m not sure what to do. Shall I go to the RV campground, or do I have time to get to Acton before the post office closes? A guy called Kevin pulls up in a posh looking truck and lowers his window. “Would you like a ride to town?” He asks. There is another hiker in his passenger seat, so I thank him and accept his offer. “Hop in” he says! The guy in the front seat introduces himself as Poncho. I can smell him from the back seat which makes me very self conscious about my own hygiene. I vow to myself that I will have a shower tonight, even if it’s a cold bucket shower at the pub in town!

    📦 4.38pm - Kevin dropped us off outside a pub called 49’ers. I waved goodbye (he refused any compensation for the ride). Americans are so kind. My first chore was to collect my bounce box from the post office which closed at 5pm. Sorted (I can’t wait to put in my new Salomon shoes tomorrow!).

    🍺 I then made my way back to the 49’ers pub. Joey, Erica, Bloom, Bobby and two English people who knew me from YouTube called M&M. They had been walking with Ash from Ireland and they FaceTimed Ash from the bar! It was good to catch up. Ash is currently in Wrightwood and is therefore about 4 days behind me. I ate a huge burger, with a huge side salad and a non alcoholic beer. Lush! I added M&M to my little year book which is now nearly full up!

    🏕️ 6pm - Many of the hikers are staying at the bar. There is space outside the back for tents, and they have buckets for showers and laundry (cold water). Disco Daddy is at the KOA up the road which is a proper campsite with full facilities, including laundry and hot showers. For $20 they also give you a pitch, Wi-Fi, free coffee, a towel, body wash and shampoo. I’m sold!

    😃 I’m outside in the car park and get chatting with a husband and wife who have just eaten in the pub. I nick named them George & Mildred. Mildred was so in awe of what us PCT hikers are doing. I cheekily say “I don’t suppose you are able to give a ride to a nice English lady? I’m hoping to get to the RV park”. Mildred is in her element and says “of course, we’d happily give you a ride”. George opens up the boot and lifts my pack into the trunk. His face was a picture when he realised how much it weighs! 😂

    🤴 The car journey was about 15 minutes and all they wanted to talk about was King Charles and the coronation. They had both been glued to the TV and watched all of the event from start to finish. “We are not keen on Camila, and that poor Lady Diana” said Mildred. They had cried when the Queen died and they were happy that Prince Harry had gone to the Coronation. We reached the campground. “Where do you go?” Asks George? “I have no idea, but drop me here and I’ll figure it out” I said. “Oh no you won’t” said Mildred. “That looks like the reception area over there. We can go in and make sure you are at the right place”. With that, they both got out of the car with me and escorted me into reception! I felt like my mum and dad were holding my hand, but it was quite sweet. “Disco Daddy!!” I screamed, a bit too loudly! He came over and we hugged each other. I introduced Disco to my chaperones which reassured them that I was in the right place. George & Mildred (not their real names) gave me a big hug each and then I waved them goodbye. Americans are so kind.

    ⛺️ 6.30pm - Fee paid, washing done and I’ve had a lovely hot shower. I’m snuggled Ip in my tent and I can hear trains going past in the background. By 8.30pm I’m exhausted and snuggle up in my cotton liner.

    Disco Daddy and I have a plan for tomorrow. I’m looking forward to hiking with him again.

    🌙 Night night
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 33

    May 23, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    The one with the bad mood, Tom Hanks to cheer me up, and more snakes!

    📍 Location: Agua Dulce (454) to MM 474.2
    🥾 I actually walked: 24 miles (exhausting)
    💰 Money: $20 for a donation to the Oasis campsite.
    ⛑️ Health: My body just aches tonight which is understandable. My feet feel like hamburger meat and my heels are painful to touch. Hopefully a good nights sleep will sort it out.

    ☀️ Weather: A mix. Cool, then up in the mountains we were walking in mist and it was freezing. Down in the canyon it got warm and sunscreen was needed!

    🍲 Food: Amazing Berry and oats breakfast, tortilla and honey for lunch (too sweet for me), then dehydrated lasagna for dinner (surprisingly good).

    💤 Sleep: I slept ok last night (Oasis campground) but there were three men in tents surrounding me who were synchronised snoring!

    😃 People update: Saw AJ today and he has a new trail name: Facial Recognition. There was a trail register as well so we now know where most people are on the trail.

    ⚙️ Gear update: My old shoes still had mileage in them but it’s nice to have new ones. My backpack is looking beaten up, my tent is doing brilliantly and my new cotton liner is working well. I love having 1 x The 1.5lt bottles rather than 4 x smart water bottles. It’s also easier to filter water using the squeeze bag, rather than two bottles (air gets stuck and it’s a pain with the bottles).

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    🍳 7am - Late start but we are off! I’ve had a proper breakfast of oats and fruit and caught up with blogs. I’m walking with Disco again today. DinkyDi messaged me and is currently resting up in Acton. I hope our paths cross again in the future.

    🦅 710am - We see a massive bird of prey in the tree, just sitting there and then it spreads its wings.. wow! I wish I knew what it was. I’m guessing a hawk of some kind.

    🎵 8 am - The walk-through Agua Dulce is pleasant with lots of ranches and equestrian places. We see an older lady with long grey hair pruning her flowers in the front garden and she’s got rock music blaring out of Radio. She didn’t spot us as she was in a world of her own. Disco smiles at me and points and I just smile back, life is fun if you let it be.

    ✍️ 8:50am - We are now 3 miles into the hike. In the middle of nowhere is a box on a post which holds a trail register. Disco and I sign the book and spend some time looking through to see who is where. We are just about to leave when I notice the three little weird sculpture things at the base of the post. I’ve Googled it to find out more but to no avail.

    😢 1016am - Disco is off! He’s a strong hiker and I’m struggling to keep up with him today so I need to let him go. I’m still going up and it’s just relentless. I think it’s more of a mental battle rather than a physical one but each step takes another part of my soul. I think about home, the dogs, my walking club and then as the climb gets harder my thoughts go to darker places and challenges of the past.
    It’s not cold, but it’s overcast and grey skies. Usually, for me, this is perfect walking weather, but today the grey skies match my mood and I’m finding it hard to shift.

    🐍 1020am - I try to change my mood and plug in my AirPods. Ive nearly finished “Tom Hanks, The Making of Another Major Motion Picture Masterpiece”. It’s still chilly and foggy so I know there won’t be any snakes to worry about…., or so I thought! “F**K me” I nearly trod on a bloody snake that was in the middle of the trail. My heart was beating as I backed up. Where is my vinegar and olive oil solution when I need it! I take out one AirPod and grab my phone to record the snake. It merges with the sand so it’s not a good shot, but you can still see it (not sure if it was a rattler or not?). It didn’t rattle, but it did cool up. I waited a few minutes but it was still in striking pose. Eventually, after about 10 mins of waiting, I started dancing on the trail. Doing a rain dance and stamping my feet hard in the ground. If anyone witnessed this then I must have looked a bit mad, but it worked! Hey, snakes don’t like my dancing. 😂 as it retreated back into the long grass.
    The good mood has been restored by adrenaline and Tom Hanks!

    🥪 11.15am - Eventually I reach the top of the first summit (over 5 miles up hill!) and Disco waiting for me (love that guy). I’m not in an overly talkative mood but we find a quiet spot, out of the wind with another couple of hikers and stop for an early lunch. Food… that’s better.

    🌳 11:50 am - We didn’t stop for long as the mist was now covering the mountain and visibility is becoming difficult. Disco and I descend the mountain which was much quicker than going up! The trail turns to a forest area and suddenly I can smell the lush green grass. I know it must be a strong aroma as I have a very poor sense of smell. The smell reminds me of home and once again I start to feel homesick. I look at my watch and do the calculations in my head, back home it’s 5pm and Matt & Rachel will be halfway through Megan & Marks wedding. I wonder how the day is going and what Megan’s dress is like. What is the weather like? I hope it’s sunny. I’ve got no service so I can’t message anyone. I miss home.

    💦 12pm - We reach a water source which is a stream that has a pipe sticking out of the ground. It’s flowing well. There are no reliable water sources for the next 15 miles, so we stop to fill up. I filter three litres into my bottles, then add another 750ml to my shoulder bottle that has electrolytes and a lemon squirt of cordial to make it taste better.

    🤩 1217 pm - Even though we are descending a mountain it’s still very high. Emerging from the forest we are greeted by a surprise view of Lake Bouquet. It’s just lovely to see something different.

    😃 1:13 pm Disco (being from Switzerland) is a Kilometre person rather than a mile person. We stop at a sign on the ground which reads 750 km! He takes a selfie and his big grin says it all. 750 sounds so much further than 466 miles!

    🚁 1:35 pm - Disco is off again and I can see him way in the distance. I am flagging a bit now but determined to do over 20 miles today, even if my feet are killing me! I stop often. This must be an area for military training as I’m entertained by low flying jets, then a HUGE military plane (sorry, I have no idea what sort of planes but they were not commercial). Not long after that a series of helicopters flew in between the saddle of a mountain and I just watched in awe of their skills.

    👋 2 pm - Disco has stopped and is talking to someone up ahead on the trail. As I get nearer i recognise his faceZ it’s AJ, who I’ve not seen since Idlywild. He has been off trail with his wife Steph but has now flipped and walking South Bound to fill in his steps. He has a trail name “Facial Recognition” as he knows everyone’s face on the trail but can never remember their names. It’s great to see him and he chats to us for a while. I also get him to write in my little year book as I had printed his photo ages ago but then didn’t see him again until today to write in the book.

    🥾 2:52 pm - Im now 16 miles into the hike and I’m very tired. A very colourful day hiker (wearing a face mask) is coming down the mountain. He stops to chat and his clothes are not the only thing that is full of vibrancy and energy. Ken is local and he tells me with pride that he is over 60 and still hikes at least 12 miles everyday to keep fit. He is extremely enthusiastic about hiking and loves to talk to the ThruHikers. “Is the man in front of you your husband?” He asks. I laugh and explain that no, we just met each other on the trail. I could stay and chat for ages but I have miles to do, so make my excuses and wish him well with his hiking. I also stole a bit of his energy! 😜

    🥘 4.40pm - We have a plan! Disco and I stop at 18 miles for a rest and to have some dinner. I’m starving and cook a lasagna (the heaviest meal in my food bag). Boy, did it taste good! Disco had a Chinese meal (King Pau Beef, or something like that). We stop here for a while and recharge our batteries. Our plan is to walk another three miles and then camp. That way, we have an easier day tomorrow.

    😂 We are just about to pack up when two ladies walk by. I shout to them “if you are looking for a tent spot then you can have this one. We are moving on shortly”. They both gave a sigh of relief and sat down to join us for a while. They are German and in their late 20’s. They are not hiking big miles as they are both struggling with tendon injuries. One lady introduced herself as “Oxygen”. She got the name because on her first night on trial, she had a dehydrated meal and sprinkled the oxygen packet into her dinner thinking it was seasoning ha ha 😂

    🥾 5:15 pm and we’re on the move again 2.9 miles to camp!

    🪦 5.41pm - I come across a a wooden bench near the trail, in memory of a guy called Bob Kimmerly, makes a nice place to stop and sit for a rest. Next to the bench is a board with lots of names and times ie 6:20:32. I have no idea what the board and numbers are for. I tap the bench and thank Bob for the short respite then continue on my way.

    🏕️ 6.10pm - I catch up with Disco who has saved me a lovely tent spot. We are on a ridge but we are surrounded by bushes and quite well protected from the wind. I pitch my tent and close all the doors. Stripping naked I grab the bath wipes. I go through three wipes which are large and thick but it feels so good to scrub my whole body clean. I then put on my Jim jams and I’m ready for bed. It’s only 7pm and my intention is to write up my blog but my eyes are heavy and I can feel the weight of the day engulfing me. I’m the tent next door I can hear the gentle snores of Disco and it’s not long before I join him in the land of nod!

    🌙 Night night everyone.

    Thank you for listening to my rambles, signing off for now Jukebox
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 32 - Movie time!

    May 24, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    The one with the rocks from the movies, a happy Disco Daddy, and an Oasis in the desert.

    📍 Location: Acton to MM 454! (Yep, over 450 miles!)

    🥾 I actually walked: 14.2 miles
    💰 Money: $22.80 bounce box, $34 resupply. $102 at the outfitters, $26 to top up my Esim card. $30 for dinner.
    ⛑️ Health: I feel great and it was a fun, easy day of hiking.

    ☀️ Weather: Perfect. Mainly overcast with a sprinkling of sunshine!

    🍲 Food: Breakfast was a blueberry muffin filled with cream cheese (weird but tasted good). No lunch, just snacked all day. Then pigged out on Chicken Fettuccine with salad and garlic bread, all washed down with refillable coffee!

    💤 Sleep: last night I slept like a log in my tent! I only woke up once when the train behind us was honking. Apparently they were honking throughout the night! I only heard it once.

    😃 Gear update: My Tyvek bivvy is in my bounce box (I have no intention of cowboy camping again, too many bugs). Bath wipes are essential! I love my chair and I’ve not seen anyone else with one. My umbrella is also used nearly everyday.

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    🚗 8am - Disco and I are ready to go but I need to send a package to hiker town. There is a guy called Jimmy who offers lifts but it looks like he is still asleep as there was no life from his RV. We are just about to put our thumbs out when a very swanky motorhome pulls into the car park. Two ladies get out. “I don’t suppose you are going into Acton?” I ask. “Are you hikers?” Asked one lady. “You must know my son, he’s also a hiker”. And then out popped two young lads. They are from Canada and the mums had flown down to meet up with their sons on the trail, and hired a motorhome. After talking to one of the sons, we discovered that his dad was born in Welford!! (Yep, Welford, Nr Daventry in the UK). This is where I’m from. They moved to Market Harborough and then Canada when the lad was just nine years old. What a small world!!

    We are dropped off at the market and then discover that the post office doesn’t open until 10am! So we grab breakfast from the indoor market of coffee and bagels and sit outside charging our phones and writing blogs. We resupply for 5 days worth of food and then I send my package. Our next task is to get a lift back to the trailhead, so we both start walking and out our thumbs out. Within two mins we hear a whistle and a guy across the road is waving us over. His name is Kevin and he has been a trail angel here for over 20 years. He’s a character and knows the area really well. The 15 minute journey took a bit longer as our resident tour guide stopped to show us things. He pulled over and told us to get out (I had to let Disco out as the car was an old cop car and only opened from the outside!). Kevin pointed below and we could see the animal sanctuary which a famous actress operates (I’ve forgotten who). Kevin gets excited as he squeaks “the tigers are out!”. Sure enough, we see tigers roaming in the enclosure. Wow, I wasn’t expect that this morning.

    The journey continued, “they recorded parts of Breaking Bad down there”, then he showed us where the movie sets are filmed. He then pulled over again and pointed out a huge nest in a tree in the distance. “That nest belongs to two red tail hawks” he said. I saw them this morning.

    1130am - We reach the trailhead and Kevin leaves us with some words of advice.
    1. Walk heavy as snakes are out in the grass and they don’t like heavy vibration.
    2. Check out the huge rocks this side of the mountain, it’s where Star Wars was filmed. You will see the famous Star Trek rock formation much later in the day, just before Agua Dulce.
    3. He gave Disco advice about the Sierras as well.

    We both left him cash on his seat and said our goodbyes. It’s getting late so we need to crack on. 11 miles to do today.

    💦 Within a few mins of starting the trail, we are already crossing rivers. Disco nearly fell off the log but he just about held it together.

    👌 Yey! I’ve just heard from DinkyDi. She’s ok, has shin splints and is taking it easy. I think she’s also having phone problems as I’m not getting her WA messages.

    1215 pm - This is a beautiful area. We have lots and lots of massive rock formations. I have a confession, I’ve never seen Star Wars so I’ve no idea which rocks were in the film. Disco, on the other hand is a film addict. He collects films and even has his own cinema room in the basement of his house in Switzerland. He reliably informs me that there are nine Star Wars films!

    Random thought: I’m loving the smell of detergent in the wind from my freshly laundered clothes. I’m also super stoked with my new Salomon Senseride 4 trail runners, I’m flying up the mountains today.

    🏔️ 1.30pm - We have a break on top of the mountain. I love my little chair and scoff down some snacks.

    😂 2:40 pm We are now weaving down the mountain and we can see the Highway in the distance. We think we have to cross it via a tunnel but we are not sure. We discus the options of crossing the interstate as we walk and joke about being in a live “frogger game”. People of a certain age will understand what I mean. Disco then abruptly stops in the trail looking confused “what is the thing that goes green, then red when you press the button?” He rarely struggles to find the correct English word. “A pelican crossing? A zebra crossing?” I offer. His eyes twinkle as he laughs and says “no, a frog in a mixer!”

    3pm - The trail takes us through a tunnel that goes underneath the Interstate. It’s good fun I didn’t see the guy behind me as I was recording and it scared the life out of me.

    310.pm - Wow wow wow! These rock formations are just amazing. They tower above us and have clear lines, a bit like the inner circle of a tree. It’s something to do with this section being on the San Andreas fault. Apparently, earthquakes are quite common around here.

    3:10 pm, We spot more weird statue things. Remember the ugly mini statues from the early days? They are now scattered along the trail and make me smile each time I see them. There is a small plaque next to them saying “Greetings PCT Hikers, from Wunderlik guardians.

    Two young lads skip by us and shout “watch out for poison oak, it’s the plant with the three leaves and an oily texture on top”. We spot it immediately and shout a thanks as they were soon a blip in the distance.

    4.05pm - There it is! Disco is very excited as we approach the famous Vasquez Rocks Natural Area Park. We admire an array of interesting and beautiful rock formations created by the San Andreas Fault. Dozens of movies and television shows have been filmed with this area as their scenic backdrop, including scenes in Blazing Saddles, Planet of the Apes (2001 version), some of the Star Trek movies and television shows, Bonanza, The Lone Ranger, Gunsmoke, MacGyver and The Twilight Zone (TV). We stop here for a while taking photos and reading the notice boards.

    Our final destination is less than a mile away, and real food is calling!

    4.36pm - Made it to 2ft Adventures (an outfitters supplying PCT gear). Their main shop is in Julian where I purchased my tie died sun hoodie. This is a portable trailer version in the middle of a field. I bought another sun hoodie (same as my heart one as I love it). I can keep it clean and wear it on the plane home. I also bought another Opsack and some dehydrated meals. Now where is that pub before I spend anymore in this shop?

    5 o’clock- made it to the Cowboy Tavern had a fantastic meal of chicken fettuccine garlic bread , and salad it was lovely. They didn’t sell alcohol because their licence has not yet been approved, but their coffee was lush! Disco had a shrimp cocktail then

    6:13 pm Feeling rather full up, we haul our packs onto our backs for the last time today and walk up the road. We are looking for a PCT hideaway called “The Oasis”. It wasn’t long before we spotted it as there were hikers everywhere. $20 to pitch your tent, showers
    (Cold), laundry, a flushing toilet and places to charge your electronics. This will do nicely! We pitch up and settle in for the night.

    Today was a great day. I’ve enjoyed walking with Disco and we have had a giggle.

    Thanks for listening to my rambles and for following along. I love the comments and notes of encouragement. ❤️❤️❤️.

    Signing off now. Jukebox xx
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 34 - Bikers Rock!

    May 26, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The one with the painful Achilles, a hug from a stranger, and staying in a bizarre hut!

    📍 Location: MM 474.2 to Hiker Town (but took a ride for 11 miles of the trail).

    🥾 I actually walked: 6.4 miles
    💰 Money: $40 in The Rock Inn, $40 to stay at Hiker Town and collect my box.
    ⛑️ Health: I’m so gutted! My Achilles on both feet are tender to touch and it’s incredibly pain going up hill. I’ve rested for most of today, and may take a day off tomorrow (depending on how I feel).

    ☀️ Weather: Overcast again whilst walking. As I lie in this little hut the wind is roaring outside! I’m glad I’m not camping tonight.

    🍲 Food: Breakfast bar & snacks on trail. Eggs, sausage and hash brown for brunch. I also treated myself to a big ad of cherry pie and ice cream (thanks Trina). At Hiker Town they fed us hikers with hot dogs and salad, and I also ate some noodles. A big food day!

    💤 Sleep: Not great. It was windy and the hot sweats are back! I may sleep better in the hut tonight on a proper bed. Fingers crossed 🤞

    😃 People update: Disco continued walking. I’ve heard from Bloom who is now in Lake Morena. Charmer aka Jesse is also at Hiker Town, and I caught I with DJ and Sketch today. So people are around me, which is great.

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    🥾 6.46 am - and we are off. It’s freezing and I’m in pain. My Achilles heels on both feet are killing me and the day starts with an incline. This is going to be a long day as I gobble up the hill.

    💬 7:10 am more of those little statues. I chat to Disco and he quieted if all these little statues was good for the environment ie: Leave No Trace. He has a point! We go to great lengths to make sure that we leave no trace of anything when we have been in nature. We put the rocks back where we found them, we even bury our toothpaste froth! So scattering little statues over the environment makes you question if it’s entertainment or destruction of nature?

    🏡 730am - I’m feeling very homesick today. I think it’s because I the family attended a wedding yesterday that I really wanted to attend. It’s been over 5 weeks now and I miss the comfort of home, my gorgeous daughter and very supportive husband. I miss little Alfie and his funny ways and Ava and her moodiness. The more I think about home the deeper I get into a funk. This is the first time I’ve questioned what on earth am I doing out here?

    🔥 8:30 am - I made it to the trial register and the fire station is literally just down the road. Disco is waiting for me and Sketch was there in his tent. I’m very grumpy and I just want to get out of this awful wind and have some real food. It’s been a week since I slept in a bed and

    🛻 9am - A wonderful lady called Sissy picks me up in her massive Chevrolet Truck. We chat in the truck as she drives me the 6 miles to the post office in Lake Hughes. She lives with her grandfather up in the mountains and reminds me of Heidi with the stories she tells. Sissy waits for me, then drives me to The Rock Inn, but is now worried about me. “It’s gets rowdy in thereon a Friday and Saturday night. I’d let you stay with me but my grandfather is a chain smoker and that won’t work. Hold on, let me make a quick phone call”, she says. While we are chatting in the truck she calls a guy called Mike to see if he has any room at his rental places. No joy, but I am gobsmacked by the generosity of the locals at these places. She gives me a big hug and tells me to call her if I have any problems, but with all the kerfuffle of getting my pack out of the truck I forgot to grab her number. I give her a big hug and she wishes me well. Americans are kind hearted.

    🍺 9.40am - The Rock Inn is aptly named in more ways than one. The building is made from large stones and is dark inside. They also have a stage where I assume bands play. As I walk in the busyness of the place goes quiet and all heads turn to check out the hiker that has just walked through the door. Initially, this felt uncomfortable, however a friendly waitress who I later found out was called Jamie, told me to put my pack in the back yard and then find a seat.

    I find a cosy booth and quietly take off my shoes. My feet are saying thank you as the pain in my Achilles reduces substantially. Plugging in my power pack for more juice and then Jamie takes my order of two eggs, sausage, hashbrowns and coffee. I tried the vanilla cream this time and it was lovely.

    🥚 So things always turns out well. I’m gutted as they have no rooms available here (they stopped providing accommodation during Covid). I was at a quandary when Jamie said “I can give you a lift to Hiker Town after my shift, if that suits?”. She doesn’t finish until 4pm but that gives me a full day of resting in the pub and catching up with videos, blogs and emails. The Wi-Fi is painfully slow, but during uploads I’m entertained by the clientele in this establishment. First of all, two ladies walk in and I recognise them instantly! They are the two mums from Canada who are meeting their sons and gave me and Disco a ride a few days ago. They are both wearing new sun hoodies and loving their trip. They excitedly tell me that tonight they are staying at an ostrich farm which is just down the road! I’m so tempted to join them, just for the experience, but my body is saying “Julia, you need to sleep in a proper bed and rest your body”. In need to listen to my body!

    🤠 Everyone here is dressed like a cowboy (not kidding!). One woman has a massive cowboy hat and a Mexican shawl. The guys at the bar just need guns hanging from a holster and you would think you were in a Western Movie. Country music is playing in the background and as the back door opens sawdust floats inside…. You can’t make it up! I love it!

    🏍️ Then I smile as I hear a roar from outside and a group of Harley Davidson riders pull up. They are all old boys and travelling across the country, East to West. They are fascinated that I’m walking the PCT and ask me loads of questions. It passes time as I’m waiting for another YouTube video to upload.

    📸 So, the Harley Davidson group call me over and would like me to participate in a group photo. Sure! Why not? So I head outside into the sunshine and they unravel a big banner that says “have bike, will travel” I pose with them all behind the banner and they all then take turns to fist bump 🤛 me! I’m having such a surreal day! 😂

    🥧 3pm - I’m not that hungry, but I do fancy pie! I call Jamie over and order warm cherry pie and vanilla ice cream. I wash it down with a non alcoholic beer. I check with Jamie that she’s still ok to give me a lift and she nods happily.

    4pm - I wait patiently for my ride.

    4.30pm - I’m still waiting patiently for my ride. The “mums” return with the boys. They are all settled in at the ostrich farm and quite excited about it. They tell me that the Jamie, the waitress, is cashing up so she shouldn’t be long. I wait patiently.

    5.35pm - I’m still waiting patiently but now I’m thinking that I’m a mug and have been taken for a ride! (Or not taken for a ride as the case may be). I’m now outside as I need some fresh air. I’ve been in the bar for a good proportion of the day, I’m in pain and extremely tired. I’ve tried Uber, to no avail. So if Jamie doesn’t give me a lift soon then I’ve no idea what I’m gonna do. I’m kicking myself for not getting Sissy’s number earlier today.

    5.50pm - I grow a pair, and head back inside to ask Jamie if she’s still happy to give me a ride. I need to know either way as I still have nowhere to sleep tonight. She’s sitting at the bar wrapping cutlery in napkins. “Are you still here?” She says. “Someone said you got a ride. “I’m still here, I was just waiting outside in the fresh air. Are you still able to give me a ride or should I try and get a hitch!”. She hesitates (not sure why?), but says “I’ll be outside in a minute”. I turn and head back out of the door after politely saying thank you.

    🚗 6.10pm - “Are you ready?” Says s voice from behind me. It’s Jamie with her car keys in her hand. I nod enthusiastically and grab my heavy pack, and my bounce box that I’d collected from the post office. Finally we are off! It’s literally 11 miles down the road and I could have walked it if I’d left after lunch! Jamie is s as talker and I sat listening to her stories about her son and his illness. She’s adamant that I’m not to mention her phone number in any blog or Facebook group as she doesn’t want people calling her for rides. (I understand and promise not to do that as she shouts out her number).

    🍉 6.40pm - We arrived at Hiker Town and I’m not really sure what to make of it. After waving goodbye to Jamie I stand in the middle of what can only be described as a makeshift Western cowboy village. The sheriff office is to my right and across the way is a hut saying “doctors”. There is another one labelled “hotel” and the place has all nation flags flying. I see a familiar face “Charmer” and walk over to where hikers have congregated. As I’m chatting a little Mexican lady appears from nowhere “Are you new?” She asks, I nod. “My name is Watermelon Sugar High” and to prove it she points to a hand written name badge that is hanging around her neck. This lady has long dark grey hair and is about four foot tall. “You want some watermelon? And some Mexican hot dogs? Come, follow me”. I leave my pack with the hikers and follow Watermelon into her house. She opens the fridge and sure enough she hands me a plate of fresh watermelon, “you take” she encourages, so I grab a big slice of cold, mouthwatering watermelon and bite into its deliciousness. “Follow” says the lady and I let her lead me out of the back door and into another cabin where there are a few more hikers. Another Mexican lady is busy cooking sausages and making hot dogs. In the cabin is another familiar face, DJ, who I’ve not seen since Julian. I’m now sitting down on a sofa, stroking a golden retriever and eating hot dogs with guacamole and mixed salad. Watermelon says “come find me when you are finished” and again I nod to say thanks.

    Watermelon showed me to my hut, named “Cristal”, for the night. It has a bed with a clean sheet (I need to use my sleeping bag. There is also a chair. That’s it! No electric and no room for a bedside table. There is black paper at the window to keep out the light. DJ is in the hut next door. “You are here. Put your pack here then find me in the house and you can have a hot shower”. I thank her and sit on the bed, feeling grateful for the rest.

    🚿 7.30pm - Heading back into the main house in search of a hot shower, the lovely Watermelon with Sugar gives me a clean towel and soap then points me in the direction of the bathroom. “You take as long as you want. Hot shower is good for the soul as well as the body” she says and then pats me on the arm. Her kindness is overwhelming and I feel rather emotional as I lock the door, turn in the shower and piping hot water cascades over my rather pathetic looking beat up body. Dirty water washes away from my body and slowly I’m feeling my energy return.

    🛌 8.40pm - I’ve eaten some noodles and brewed a hot chocolate and now I’m snuggled up in this cozy hut with just the sound of the wind blowing a hooley out there. Thank his I’m not in my tent. Thoughts go out to Disco Daddy, DinkyDi and a few others. I wonder where everyone is tonight as I close my eyes and let sleep take over.

    Thanks for reading another waffly journal entry. It’s been a surreal day. Signing off for now… Jukebox
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 35 - Night Hiking!

    May 26, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    The one with the scary drug deal, glow sticks and windmills.

    📍 Location: Hiker Town (517.6) to MM 533.7

    🥾 I actually walked: 18.2 miles (16 on trail)
    💰 Money: $14 for loaded fries and a drink from the market.
    ⛑️ Health: My Achilles are still sore (right more than left). Todays walk is flat so I should be fine. 🤞

    ☀️ Weather: As we set off at 5pm it was still 29 degrees!

    🍲 Food: Breakfast bar, loaded fries with chicken and cheese, then Mac & cheese with pulled pork for dinner.

    💤 Sleep: I slept well again last night in the little cabin.

    😃 People update: Bloom walked into Hiker Town this morning. She has already walked 10 miles but then hiked out with us tonight. That made a 27 mile day for her. Go Bloom!!

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    Today is a bit different as we hiked out at 5pm. We have a long flat walk of 12 miles, then 4 miles uphill to do, in a very exposed area. Many people walk this section at night to miss the heat of the day. This is going to be a very different experience. Hiking with Miles, his mum, Disco and Bloom.

    🎒 5 pm and we are off! It feels so good to be back out on the trail even if my rucksack feels super heavy with 3.5 litres of water and three days of food.

    🌸 5:20 pm We walk through a huge field of yellow flowers (they look like big buttercups) and then turn right when we reach the aqueduct. I’m soon to learn that the PCT follows the LA aqueduct for a long while, but it’s in different styles. Section A is a beautiful open river style which we follow for about a mile. The river then goes underground and suddenly we are walking on top of a humongous pipe, section B (now this was fun!). The pipe then heads further underground and we walked on a paved road that had big blocks of concrete every half a mile or so, section C. You can hear the water below.

    🎤 610pm - We had heard the sad news of Tina Turner passing so Disco Daddy had downloaded her greatest hits and we sang Tina tunes through section A. We slaughtered Simply the Best! 😂

    🌅 7:15 pm - It’s still warm and the sun is going down slowly. It’s just beautiful and I question why Ive not really completed much night hiking before now?

    🪦 730 pm - We are now in section C and written into the concrete are the words “Terry Williams” DiscoDaddy tells us that Terry was a famous mafia dude who was shot twice and buried somewhere in the Californian desert. “See the arrow?, that must be where is body is buried” he laughed! I think the sun has gone to his head!! I still have no idea who Terry Williams is.

    🐮 7.50pm - We are still singing to Tina Turner and a herd of cows is to our left. As we bellow the words “What’s love got to do with it” a cow starts mooing very loudly and we roll about in giggles. We’ve been joined by two French people who are wearing bright orange jumpers. We have suggested the name (Tango duo). They are a bit young to remember the TV advert so I show them on YouTube. We call them “The Tangos” as we continue to leapfrog them during the night.

    🎄 837 pm - It’s now dusk so we stop in the middle of the road and in true Disco form, out come the glow sticks! All three of us are now lit up like Christmas Trees and this gives us a real pep in our step. I put “Now that’s what I call 80’s” on loud speaker and the three of us dance up the road to Queen “I want to break free”.

    🛻 9.10pm - There is some sort of mobile home park up ahead but there is not one single light on, which is weird. As we approach the park I instinctively turn off the 80’s music. We all get a weird vibe from this place as it’s dark and eeery. There are a mix of caravans and RV’s all over the place. We conclude that it’s deserted. There are no dogs or humans around at all. The mood is now a little more somber as we continue to trudge along the road (still lit up by glow sticks!).

    🚗 9.20 pm - In the distance we see a car which seems to be stationary and it’s headlights beaming bright. Disco is a bit ahead now and I’m walking with Bloom. “I think that car is on a different road. But if it’s on this road then I don’t like it! I don’t like it at all”. I said to Bloom. She nodded and we agree to stick together. The road makes a turn and now it’s obvious that we will be walking right by the car which is probably about half a mile away. As we walk we are speculating who on earth would be out in the middle of nowhere, parked smack bang in the centre of the road with their full beam on? We shout at Disco to slow down (he waits for us). This is best attacked in numbers! We pass two people who have pitched up on the right. I’m not sure if they are “The Tangos” or not? The car is now getting closer and Bloom and I pick up our pace to keep up with Disco. I get my phone out and record the approach. You can hear how nervous I am when you watch the video. By now we’ve decided that some sort of night drug deal is going on and we are just going to walk by and keep our heads down. We agree no eye contact and keep our walking poles in a good position for protection. We are ready for a fight! Three walking Christmas trees! 😂

    🔦 9.40 pm - We are now being blinded by the headlights and can’t see a thing (this is a smart tactic by the drugs people!). As we approach my breathing is getting heavier. We then see The Tangos at the rear of the car and I’m super confused. “Trail Magic” says a very jolly man. “Would you like some pizza and a coke?”. OMG! The guys name was Mr President and he’s an absolute legend. What a thoughtful thing to do, even if he did scare us to death at first! We stayed around and chatted for a while and ate pizza and drank coke. Life is great right now! 🍕

    12.15pm - As the night wore on we started to get tired and ended up pitching a mile before our end goal. Disco found us a great tent spot which was out of the wind.

    Pitching in the dark, underneath a giant windmill, was challenging but fun. I’ll find out if I’ve pitched on an ants nest in the morning.

    What a great night!

    Thanks for listening to my rambles.

    Signing off.

    Jukebox
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 36 - electricity!

    May 29, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    The one with electrocution, snake and landslide side trail.

    📍 Location: MM 533.7 to MM 546

    🥾 I actually walked: 13.5 miles
    💰 Money: No money spent
    ⛑️ Health: I’m very sore. My heels are still painful and I’ve also developed shin splints in my right leg. My body is screaming at me at the moment!

    🍲 Food: Breakfast bar, noodles and chilli Mac. Lots of snacks in between. I’ve not done a ramen bomb yet!!

    💤 Sleep: Surprisingly, I slept well. Apparently some guy was walking around our little site at 1am with a head torch on full beam and I never heard a thing!

    😃 People update: Getting to know lots of new people on this section. We see the Tangos every day.

    🐍 Snake Count: Lost count! Bloom nearly stepped on one today!

    THE LONG WINDRD VERSION:

    🥾 9:00 am - After a leisurely lie-in we finally hit the trail at 9am. It’s already hot but there is a lovely cool breeze and the wind farm is surprisingly beautiful. We have around 15 miles to do today so we are taking our time. We also have lots of elevation so I’m wary of my achilles and want to take my time. I’m a good girl and have completed my stretches before I head out.

    💦 9.43am - We are 3 miles into the hike and we reach a water source. I’ve carried 3ltrs since yesterday and still have the same! I must not be drinking enough. I watch their packs as Disco and Bloom take the small trail to the stream and grab a few litres of cold water.

    ⚡️ 1020 am - Ha! Now that’s quite funny. We approach a sign that reads “DANGER, High voltage , electrocution hazard. PCT Hikers have access” in other words, us “hiker trash” peeps are not important enough to worry about such things!

    🐍 1.10pm - Bloom and I are both struggling today. I think Bloom is just exhausted after her 26 mile day yesterday and I’m just in pain with each step. We are walking in zombie mode and I literally screamed at Bloom as she nearly stood on a snake! It’s forked tongue was bigger than it’s head! It recoiled and slid back into the bushes! I hope this water source is not too far. We need a rest and get out of this heat!

    ⚠️ 1.40 pm - Bloom is now leading and we are excited as we see tents and groups of people below us at the stream. I so need to sit down and rest my feet. My Achilles and shins are throbbing in my right leg with every step and I’m moving incredibly slowly. The trail takes a sharp turn to the right and before we know it, we are hanging on to trees and negotiating landslides. “This doesn’t feel right” I shouted to Bloom who was looking for the next bit to scramble. “I thought the same, but there are loads of footprints so it must be right”. She said. I looked down and I could also see lots of footprints, but there were other footprints leading back up the hill. I stopped and pulled out my phone to check the app. “Yep, we are off trail” I shouted to Bloom and we both laughed and turned around to scramble back to the trail above us. When we reached the top we then saw a big arrow made from stones pointing to a turn which was about 2 metres from where we were. We weren’t moody or angry. Shit happens and I was just glad for the rest when we finally made it to the stream!

    💦 2pm - We arrived at the Tylerhorse Canyon stream and we will have a long break here. I get my little chair out and set it up under a tree in the shade. I also set out my foam mat and enjoy a lie down with my feet up on my chair. “It’s so hot, shall we stay here for a few hours and then hike out when it’s cooler?” I asked Bloom. “That’s exactly what I was thinking” said Bloom. We had two hours of bliss. Soaking my swollen feet in the stream, eating hot noodles, enjoying snacks and chatting with other hikers. It was a lovely and well needed break. Disco Daddy was waiting for us as we arrived but he had already been there for 40’mins or so. He waved us goodbye and told us he’d see us at the campsite a bit later.

    🥾 345 pm -And we are on our way again. We have eight miles left to do and it starts with a steep climb up! Bring it on!

    ✍️ 5.18pm - We have been climbing for over an hour, so the trail register at the top was a welcomed break. We signed the register and chatted with an Austrian Hiker called Dominic. I check the elevation profile for the next section… downhill! Yey!

    ⛺️ 6.40pm - And we are done! I text Disco to let him know they we’ve stopped 2 miles before the agreed site as we are knackered. We will see him in town tomorrow.

    Bloom and I are camped on a ridge which is not ideal (could be windy) but at least it’s flat. We eat dinner, enjoy a hot chocolate together and then we are both in our tents by 7.30pm (8pm is known as Hiker Midnight). As I sit in my tent, washing the dust from my body with bath wipes I look out over the mountains through my open door. The night air is very calm. There is not a drop of wind! Let’s hope it stays that way!

    “Night night Bloom”. I say, but she is already asleep.

    Thanks for listening to my ramblings.

    Signing off.

    Jukebox
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 37 - Tehachapi

    May 30, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    The one with the mice, Ghost and a Thai meal with good friends.

    📍 Location: MM 546.5 to Tehachapi

    🥾 I actually walked: 17.2 miles (13.5 trail miles)
    💰 Money: $263 for two hotel nights, $45 Thai restaurant, $74 in Walmart (huge store!).
    ⛑️ Health: The stretching exercises, pain relief gel and taking my time has worked on my achillies. It’s still sore on my right foot but no issues with my left. The pain in my shin is sporadic. I just make sure I rub them as part of my resting routine.

    ☀️ Weather: Hot, but with a gentle breeze.

    🍲 Food: Breakfast bar and a hot hazelnut coffee, noodles with tuna for lunch and Thai meal for dinner. (Yum!).

    💤 Sleep: I slept quite well in the tent last night. We camped on a ridge and the comments in FarOut (the app) said the site was incredible windy, but we were lucky. No wind for us last night and I had my doors open to enjoy the stars.

    😃 People update: Tonight we had dinner with Amber, Harry and Sketch. It was great to catch up.

    ⚙️ Gear update - Early on I ditched the four smart water bottles and replaced with 2 x 1.5 litre bottles. My tent is looking a bit worn now and there are a few holes in the mesh of my pack. Everything is starting to look grubby and tired (including me!) 😂

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    🐭 5.10am - I hear a rustling from the palace of a tent next door. “Morning” I said. “Morning” reapplied Bloom. “Sorry if I woke you up last night” she said. “No? I didn’t hear a thing. Did you have a restless night?” I asked. “I’ll explain over coffee” she said. We spent the next 40 mins or so packing up and having breakfast. As we sit down to drink our coffee and watch the amazing sunrise Bloom explained what had happened last night. “You see the holes in the ground?” She says, pointing to he holes. “Yes, they are everywhere in the desert” I said. “Well, last night I discovered what lives in them! During the night I was bombarded by little desert mice who were popping up under my tent and trying to get inside”. She continued… “lesson learned, avoid those little holes if you can!”. Poor Bloom! She’s had lots of ping days recently and really needed a good nights sleep. Tonight we will be in a hotel room with a hot bath and clean sheets. Fingers crossed she sleeps well tonight.

    🥾 619 am - And we are off! We have nearly three miles of climbing before the trail starts heading down to Tehachapi (our final destination). We have fresh legs this morning but the climb is still very challenging. 19 miles to do today. It’s going to be a long day!

    ⛰️ 630 am - Walking on the trail is quite humorous. Bloom and I are both over 50 and these mountains are challenging. We hear footsteps behind us and are constantly living over to let people pass. The youngsters on the trail look as if they are not even breaking a sweat! We stop to let a small tramily pass. Leading the group was the Austrian guy that we saw yesterday named Dominic. “Hi” I said, “thanks for letting us pass” he replied politely. “It’s gonna be a long day” I said “so any excuse for a break!” I laughed. “Not so long. There is a road junction at 13 miles today, rather than carrying on to the 19 mile marker. That’s where we are getting off. It’s called Willow Springs Road.” And with that, he and his small trail family of three waved us goodbye.

    🙌 I looked at Bloom who knew exactly what I was thinking. “13 miles! Whoop! That’s made my day”. I said and did a Whoop! Into the air. I checked the app and sure enough there was an exit point at Willow Springs Road. Looking at the elevation, most of it was downhill as well. The good news gave us a real boost.

    709 am - The reason Bloom has her trail name is because she is fascinated by flowers and takes photos of them as we go. It’s lovely to hear someone enthusiastic about the flowers and I’m learning new things all the time. She first points out the Loopins. I knew that one, or so I thought! “These are actually stinging Loopins are are native to California. They thrive in the mountains and particularly in burnt areas. As we climb higher I keep asking her names of flowers. She spots a Milk weed which has a cloudy white leaf, and the gorgeous Desert Mariposa Lily which pops up in a vibrant orange colour. I think they look like tiny roses 🌹 in the desert floor.

    🪲 Bloom is also a lover of anything to do with nature. She spends a good few minutes rescuing a bee which is on the trail and she doesn’t want him to be trodden on. She then looks up the name of the big black beetles that stick their bums in the air and their heads in the sand. Apparently they are called Desert Stink Beetles. I’m enjoying walking with Bloom. She has a similar pace to me and is a fountain of knowledge on the trail. It’s good to see the trail through different eyes.

    ☂️ 7.47 am - As we reach the peak of the mountain (or nearly the peak) we spot a little oasis that has been created by someone with a sense of humour. Trail magic!! We have gallons of water, a hiker box, a big rubbish bin (Yey! We can get rid of our trash), chairs to sit down with parasols to sit under. There is a library box full of books and another cabinet called “pantry”. If yuh arrived here for a siesta in the middle of the day then this would be heaven. We are in the middle of nowhere, high up in the desert mountains and sitting in a chair with parasols creating shade. It’s all a bit surreal and I’m loving it!
    Bloom and I rest here for about 20 mins before heading our packs onto our backs and hike on. Eight miles to go! We got this!

    850 am - We feel like we are walking out of the desert now. The terrain becomes much more green and it’s great to see new things such as the amazing Joshua Trees. We still have sand but the tumbleweed has turned to green bushes and bracken.

    ⛅️ The weather is good. Just a nice cool breeze with wind turbines all around. The walking is easy and I’m really enjoying the trail today. It’s busy as well as people are passing us all day, and then we leapfrog them when they stop for a break.

    930 am - We hear someone running behind us. As usual we pull over to let the person pass. A young man recognises Bloom and as he runs (yep, he’s running not walking!), he says “have you seen my trail family Bloom?” She shouts after him and says “yes, they are a bit in front of us”. And like that, he was gone. “His name is Wilbur (something to do with a pig), but I call him Ghost. She says with a smile. “Ghost?” I asked. She explained that you think he is in front of you and then he pops up behind you! It’s like he vanishes and then reappears. “It’s difficult to explain” she says.

    Ten minutes later we hear someone else running behind us. It’s Wilbur/Ghost! He passes us again and just puts his hand in the air to say thanks for loving over. I’m super confused! He is fast and he passed us ages ago. I look at Bloom…. “Ghost” she says!!

    🧘‍♀️ 10.47 am - Break time. I’m in my little chair and Bloom has a yoga mat to lie down on. It feels good to rest. A very tall lady called “Catch Up” (I actually thought her name was Ketchup but was corrected later) is sitting to our left. She’s playing Ed Sheeran and enjoying a cigarette. I hum along to Ed as we break for about 15 mins. Check Up leaves and we shortly follow.

    🐴 12 noon - We are so close now! We are walking through the Wind Turbine farm and these things are huge and quite noisy. I then spit a big horse on the trail without an owner to be seen anywhere. Is it a wild horse? It just appeared from nowhere and starts galloping down the hill to say hello. My reaction is a bit different to Blooms. I stop in my tracks and hold up my poles to protect myself and Bloom is “ah, what a lovely horse “. I put bloom in the front because she doesn’t mind horses I prefer them behind a fence.

    🏨 1.10pm - We arrive at Willow Springs Road and I feel the relief knowing I will be in a warm bed later tonight. We were lucky enough to secure a hitch with a trail angel called Lucky Lucy who dropped us right outside our hotel. Check in was not until 3pm but our rooms were ready! Result! Disco Daddy is here as well but he couldn’t check in so spent the last few hours in the German Bakery in town which apparently has the best bread he has ever tasted!!

    Bath ✅
    Laundry ✅
    Gear explosion in my room ✅

    🍺 Disco messaged me. He fancies Thai food tonight and we think that’s a great idea. We set off around 5.30pm in search of a popular restaurant called Thai Apchapi. On route we popped into a liquor store that had a Beer cave in the back with over 700 beers! It was freezing inside but the variety of beer was amazing. Disco loved it, and Bloom found a beer she liked called Fat Cats.

    🍴 A guy from Canada called Brad joined us for a Thai meal. I indulged in a pork chow mien , and chicken satay. We all tried each others food as well. I particle like the steamed dumplings that Bloom was eating.

    👍 To my delight, I had a text from Harry & Amber. They were in town as well and came to join us at the restaurant. Sketch was with them. It was so good to catch up with them and to hear their stories from the last few days. They are hiking out tomorrow so I’m not sure if I’ll see them again before I head home. Home… that’s close now. Just two more weeks left and 136 miles left to walk!

    Thanks for listening to my rambles. It’s been a good day today.

    Signing off.

    Jukebox
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 38

    June 1, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    The one with the surprise at lunch, Christmas toes and two tumbles.

    📍 Location: Tehachapi to MM 583

    🥾 I actually walked: 17 miles
    💰 Money: No money spent
    ⛑️ Health: My feet are now taped up. With only 136 miles to go I am not giving up now!! End of the day I’m feeling good. My achillies are still a bit sore, but it’s manageable. The tape worked well.

    ☀️ Weather: Overcast in the morning but hitting late 20’s in the afternoon.

    🍲 Food: I stuffed myself silly on the Hotel breakfast with eggs, sausages, waffles and coffee. Lunch was hot noodles with bacon bits, dinner was dehydrated chicken fried rice with vegetables. I ate gummies, nature valley bars, sweets and trail mix in between. Hiker hunger is real!

    💤 Sleep: I’ve slept well in my king sized hotel room bed for the last two nights. I’m now back in a tent for the next 5 days!!

    😃 People update: Disco is staying an extra day in Tehachapi. He is fast so will catch us up. It was also good to spend lunch with Amber & Harry, Kodak & Flamingo.

    ⚙️ Gear update - I changed my bidet to a Vango fuel bottle with a spout. It works a dream and now I don’t have water spilling out everywhere.

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    🏨 I’ve spent two nights in Tehachapi. Yesterday I was not very sociable and spent all afternoon and evening just in my hotel room resting, stretching and having a long bath. I caught up with Matt & Rachel on FaceTime which is always good for the moral. I miss them both (and the dogs) terribly, but not long to go now.

    🍀 My pack is now the heaviest it’s ever been with six days of food and 4 litres of water. My feet are taped up and I feel good to go! I’m walking this last section with Bloom. Disco is slack packing a small section today and walking back to Tehachapi. Wish us luck!

    🚗 730 am - A lovely trail angel called Fran collects us from the hotel. She’s playing classical music and tells us all about her family. Her niece lives in Switzerland so she’s chatting away with Disco Daddy about places that she has visited in his home country.

    🥾 8 am - Fran drops me and Bloom off at the trail head and then takes Disco to a different section. And we’re off. The first section of this trail is walking in parallel to the busy interstate which is noisy. We have barbed wire on our left and trucks on our right. This part is not pretty I’m sort of looking forward to the mountains. I have a feeling that this may be where they recorded the start of the trail for Cheryl Strayed (from the film Wild), but I may be completely wrong.

    🏔️ 830 am - The highway is soon a spec in the distance and we are heading up into the mountains. Looking at the elevation profile, it’s going to be a climbing sort of day!

    🌸 1046 am - We reached the 5 mile mark and we are over 6000 feet. There are bright orange Mariposa lilies everywhere. It’s beautiful, like a flood of orange carpet all over the side of the mountain. The wind has died down now and the Sun is shining. It’s hot! Have I mentioned that I don’t like walking in the heat? 😂

    🌳 11.12 am - We stop for a 10 minute break under a Joshua Tree. It’s good to have some shade.

    🏔️ Blimey, this is trudging today. It’s a slog as we climb 6300ft into the desert mountains. The sand is getting in my shoes and I can feel the pain in my heels starting to scream under the strain of the incline. “Stop moaning, Jukebox” I say to myself. Then I start singing “these are a few of my favourite things”. I sing loud and it works! Gotta love Julie Andrew’s!

    Eventually, we have some reprieve as the trail turns on to a dirt road and we start heading down the mountain. We agree to stop at the tent site at the bottom of this hill for lunch.

    👋 1.30pm - Omg! Harry, Amber (The Royals), Kodak and Flamingo are here as well. Hugs all around! They camped last night and it was very windy. We chat at length and it’s good to catch up. We may see them again later at the water cache.

    🦶 “Has anyone else got numb toes?I ask, as I try rubbing life back into mine. Harry tells me that he has had numb toes for a while now and Flamingo has also suffered from numb toes for about two weeks. “Apparently it’s called Christmas toes”, Flamingo explained. “After a thru-hike, you don’t get feeling back i your toes until after Christmas”. In all my research for this trip I’ve never heard of Christmas toes!

    🥾 3 pm - After a nice long lunch, Bloom and I are off again.

    🤕 Note to self, turn cooker off before trying to put it away! (I burnt my thumb and finger!).

    🪨 5.10pm - We are now walking on very slippery gravelly sand with cliff edges to our left. We are negotiating rocks and big stones and the pace is very slow. As I clamber down one section my right foot slips from under me and I find myself flat on my rear end. Luckily, no damage that I can see. Bloom helps me up and we continue on at an even slower but more stable pace!

    6pm - It’s still in the late 20’s and baking 🥵. I look at the app and we’ve only done 16 miles so far. We still have just over 4 miles to go. We find a tree for anothe quick break before carrying on. Im ignoring the pain on my feet and I’m now hitching up my rucksack every ten minutes as it keeps slipping down over my hips.

    6.20 pm - We are now hiking down the mountain which is so much better on my feet. The pace has picked up and so has our chatter. It’s good to talk. I then hear a noise followed by a little scream. As I turn around, Bloom is on the floor and is in a lot of pain. I snap open her rucksack so that she can climb out of it and sit on the side. Her foot had caught a dead tree spike and she had gone over. It had tore her shoe and she’s also has a bad cut on her knee. We clean up the wound and patch her up. We agree to pitch before the next water source as we have enough to get us through the night and we can’t risk any more accidents today. We are both exhausted.

    🏕️ 6.40 pm - Lots of people have passed us so we are expecting the camp area near the spring to be busy. We find a spot at mile marker 583, Golden Oaks Spring. TourGuide is here and also Pickles and Steve. Blooms leg is bleeding heavily and we really need to stop. It’s sheltered well by the wind and we have a water pipe to filter water from.

    A challenging day with the inclines, but a good 17 miler in the bank. I’m sleeping next door to Steve so I hope he isn’t a snorer.

    Thanks for listening to my rambles.

    See you tomorrow. Night night

    Signing off.

    Jukebox
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 39

    June 2, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The one with the anniversary, 600 miles and a friggin big snake!!

    📍 Location: MM 583 to MM 603.1

    🥾 I actually walked: 20 miles (mainly uphill!!)
    💰 Money: No money spent
    ⛑️ Health: I was feeling great until lunch time when I took off my shoes. Where I’d taped my foot for my achillies issue, I now have a big blister that runs along the edge. I pop it, drain it, hand sanitizer it (used the last of the alcohol wipes yesterday) and dressed it. It still hurts!

    ☀️ Weather: chilly first thing but by 8am the sun came out and I was soon moaning about the heat!!

    🍲 Food: Breakfast bars (2), hazelnut coffee, noodles for lunch and beef stroganoff for dinner.,

    💤 Sleep: Sleeping underneath a wind turbine with its swooshing noise all night makes for a restless sleep. Luckily Steve wasn’t snoring, so that was a bonus.

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    🌄 6.30am - Packed up and we have a fabulous sunrise through the trees. It’s a busy campsite as this was the first water source in 17 miles! Today we have 20 miles before water but the elevation is not as high. When you are on a trail the key is to keep hydrated. Everyone talks about how far it is to the next water source. On the FarOut app people comment to say if the water is flowing well. In previous sections the water sources have been a few miles apart, but this section is tough with 14-20 mile water carry’s.

    👰‍♀️ 651 am - Yippee, I have service and receive a message from my lovely husband to say happy anniversary. 22 years today we got married. Love you Matt. Miss you see you in just over a week.

    🌲 Currently walking through the wind farm. These huge wind turbines are towering above us. We soon enter a forest trail section which is fairly cruisy and easy walking. I hear my feet thanking me for not having to do too much incline and they like the soft pine trail! We have lots of shade and it’s very pretty. I wish the whole trail was like this.

    👋 803 am - “Is that jukebox?” says a voice from behind. Its Tour Guide. She started on the same day as us from CLEEF campsite in Campo. Its lovely to see people from our original trial family. TourGuide is doing really well and she will smash it all the way to Canada.

    Ah….. a chipmunk poses for a photo. Cute!

    🌵 9.07am - A quick break before we exit the forest. We can see that we are about to go back out into the desert mountains. Oh joy!

    🐍 10:05 am - OMG! I swore again as I leapt to the right. A massive big snake on the left-hand side of the trail was probably about 4 foot long. It was black with one big yellow stripe down its back. Once I composed myself for nearly treading on the thing, I took a photo and video. My heart is still beating fast but this snake is rather elegant.

    👩‍⚕️ 1120 am - Most people pass us as we are hiking slower than everyone else. As we hear a person approach from behind we instinctively pull over to let him pass. He is limping quite badly so we ask if he is ok. Matris (may have that wrong) from Germany explains how he heard a “pop” and now has pain on the bottom of his foot. We sit down and I get out my little chair. He puts his foot in my lap and I tape up the sole with some KT tape. His feet stink but it doesn’t matter. We all stink! I’m not sure if it helps but he says thank you and we send him on his merry way.

    🥪 12.45pm - lunch time! Over 10 miles done and I’m ready for a break. TourGuide is here and then Sketch turns up. More noodles!

    🥾 2:20 pm - and we’re off again after a nice long break, 9 miles to go. I’m looking out for that 600 mile mark. The blister on my right foot is giving me some pain so I’m limping a bit. Hey Ho, let’s get this shit done!

    ⚡️ 2:40 pm Wow! An electric pylon has collapsed and we have to duck underneath it without out packs touching anything. We can hear the cracking and sizzling from above. I then spot a ring of rocks which suggested that someone actually camped here! How crazy is that? That pylon could fall at any moment.

    🦎 3.10 pm - This climb is relentless. It just goes on forever. To amuse ourselves we take videos and photos of a horny toad. These are difficult to spot as their camouflage skin blends with the sand. We spotted a couple though.

    🪓 3:15 pm - “Hey, is that Nathan” shouts Bloom as two figures approach us from the opposite direction. “It sure is” said a deep voice. Nathan and Michele are part of a trail maintenance crew and have been cutting down trees/ bushes etc and helping to clear the trail for us. We actually saw them back in Mission Creek many many moons ago. Bloom knew his name as it was written on his work helmet back in Mission Creek. We chatted for a while and gave them our thanks. This trail would be even more challenging without volunteers like these kind people.

    🌲 3:45 pm - Once again we are walking through gorgeous Forest Trail section. The ground is soft and pine cones are scattered along the trail. I love the wooded sections of this trail. The sun trying to peak inside to see what is happening beyond the trees.

    🏃‍♂️ 5:16 pm I realise that I’ve not out recorded anything to video for a while (for YouTube) so Bloom and I set up a quick “walk by” shot. Just as we are done, we turn around to see a bare chested man running down the hill. He also runs by my camera which is still recording! Lol. As he whizzes by he said “found my earphones, see you at camp!”. We giggle and I can’t wait to see the video!

    🌲 5:32 pm - Blown down after blow down. This is now turning into a full body workout as we climb over and crawl under the fallen trees.

    🕺 6 o’clock and we reach a big milestone of 600 miles! I complete a little video for Theresa who made a SHOUT donation and asked me to do the 500 mile song dance. It was good fun. 😂

    ⛪️ 6.26pm - The strange things you see in the woods! A massive sign showing Gods 10 commandments. See photo

    🏕️ 7.30pm - made it to camp! We are pitched about 0.2 from the water source but we have enough water for dinner and breakfast. There are just the two of us here which is lovely.

    Night night everyone and thanks for listening to my rambles.

    Signing off.

    Jukebox
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 40

    June 3, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    The one with the jingle bells, potential trail magic and a few tears.

    📍 Location: MM 583 to 617

    🥾 I actually walked: 17.1 miles
    💰 Money: No money spent
    ⛑️ Health: Not good. See long winded version.

    🍲 Food: Breakfast bar, snacks, chicken salad and crackers (chicken salad looked like sick when I opened it!). Dehydrated lasagna.

    💤 Sleep: I slept ok last night. It was quiet and the moon was bright. There was just me and Bloom in this spot so we could chat as we packed up without the fear of waking up other hikers.

    THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-

    ☕️ 6.05 am - We woke at 5am, packed up, ate breakfast and a hot coffee and then we were off! I’m hobbling this morning which is frustrating as I assumed a good nights sleep would help my tired feet. I keep stopping to stretch my Achilles, which eases the pain for a short burst.

    💦 6:30 am - After a short walk we reach the water source. They have some fabulous names for their creeks, this one is called Robin Bird Spring. I chat briefly to TourGuide and Lightbird before collecting two litres of water from the spring which tops up my bottles nicely. Bloom and I are off again and we are walking at a good steady pace.

    🌳 8:30 am - the scenery today is taking my mind off any pain in my body as it’s absolutely gorgeous. I shout out to Bloom “I love this trail today. The pine cones, the shaded areas, the smell of the forest. Even negotiating the blow down trees and hopping over streams is fun.

    🌺 Bloom is on the ball with the sea of flowers in the forest. We have carpets of small purple and yellow flowers. I’ve no idea what they were (Bloom did tell me but I’ve completely forgotten). We can hear a hawk squawking above us but we can’t see it and little squirrels keep crossing our path. Its so peaceful here.

    🪄 9:00 am - A guy overtakes us and tells us that there may be trial magic at the next water source. We are both excited and the idea of a cold can of Dr Pepper is now etched on our minds. Over the next three miles we talk enthusiastically about trail magic and how awesome it would be.

    🎅 9:10 am - We hear a familiar sound coming up behind us. It sounds like Santa and his reindeers with jingle bells! I turn around to see Nick a.k.a. “Lost Property” smiling as he is walking. “You sound like Christmas” I said as he passes us. “It’s really annoying” he says. “A stone somehow got inside my trekking pole and now it jingles with every step” he explained. I thought it sounded great, but I can imagine it would get on my nerves as well after a period of time.

    ✍️ 9:49 am - We stop for a quick second, while we sign the trial register. Bloom selects a sticker from my collection that says “Treat people with kindness”. She smiles as she places it in a prominent section in the book. We can see that Kodak, Flamingo, Charmer, Amber & Harry just in front of us. Trail magic is calling with only a mile or so to go, so we don’t hang around for too long.

    🥪 10.15am - We finally make it to the junction for the water source and turn away from the PCT. Following the dirt road towards Landers Meadow Campground we listen out for excited chatter and the infamous trail magic!

    The guy who told us about the trail magic was there and simply shrugged his shoulders. “Sorry” he said apologetically. “No trail magic today”. It’s not his fault, he was just passing on info that someone had told him and he was also down heartened about it.

    Feeling a bit glum I sit under a tree in the shade. Sweat is pouring from me and I need to get these shoes off my feet. As I peel my socks off and remove the dressing for my blister I am quite horrified to see what lay underneath. The blister has now spread across the back of my heel. I set to work by cleaning the area, sterilising my needle, popping the blister and draining it. I’ve no alcoholic wipes left and I know it’s important to keep clean, so I add hand sanitizer to the wound. I yelp in pain and Bloom gives me a look to say “are you ok?”. Once it’s clean and dressed with a new dressing, I then tend to another blister which has now appeared on the sole of my foot, underneath my toes. I’ve been walking on my toes to avoid putting my heel on the ground as that was hurting my Achilles. What a mess this is!!

    🥾 2:00 pm - We are now only 13 miles into today’s hike and still have seven to go. The gorgeous forest is a distant memory and the desert mountains tower before us once again. With limited shaded areas and I can feel myself getting upset with each step. I’ve gone quiet and I’m not my usual happy go lucky self.

    🛑 4pm - Just like Forest Gump I stop in the middle of the trail and say to Bloom “I’m calling it quits. I can no longer continue walking on this foot”. We sit down on a rock and I’m holding back the tears. For the last mile all I’ve been thinking about is what on earth am I doing? Each step is causing striking pains in my heels and my blisters are so sore. I have mashed feet at the base of my toes. A few days ago a friend sent me a text:

    “Hello lovely, hope you are listening to your body, you have nothing to prove to yourself or anyone else. Don't bugger yourself up for months and months 🥰 xXx”

    ✅ She was spot on. Thoughts go to my immediate future. My day job is a physical one and I need my feet! I’ve walked over 600 miles through some amazing scenery and challenging terrain. What have I got to prove? The goal was set by me, so I’m only letting myself down. If I continue and bugger up my ability to walk for a few months then I’ll be letting lots of other people down. Kind people who have been running my business for me whilst I’ve been away. They deserve better.

    😢 As I sit on a rock, with Bloom by my side, I feel very emotional. I text Matt & Rachel to let them know how I’m feeling. They are both super supportive. A message from Ali (a friend back home) comes in at the same time and then I’m a blubbering mess.

    I pull myself together. The next water source is 1.1 miles, and it’s all downhill. I click on the tab for the detailed information.

    “Kelso Valley Road is a paved road that leads twenty miles north to the town of Weldon, near Lake Isabella. It is not a viable road for hitchhiking, since it gets little traffic, but can serve as a trailhead”

    Trailhead…. That means that people get dropped off and collected here.

    🦶 5.25 pm - I’m now limping and it takes nearly an hour to walk the 1.1 miles. Poor Bloom is with me every step of the way. (Thanks Bloom). According to FarOut we have walked just under 16 miles today, but in my heart I know I’m done. This is where my adventure ends. Or at least my PCT hike.

    It sounds dramatic, but I’m so disappointed. I’ve got 85 miles to do, I’m so close to my goal.

    🚗 6.15pm - I take a selfie and post in the Trail Angels group to see if anyone is available to give me a ride to Lake Isabella (where I have a bounce box waiting for me). Within 30 mins I receive a message from a lady called Dana. I can take you to Ridgecrest if you are ok waiting for me? Ridgecrest is a bigger town and has much better hotel options so I say thank you and graciously accept. “It will take me about an hour to get to you. I’ll leave now. Can you send me your exact location please?” She asks.

    😇 I look at Bloom. This kind lady is prepared to drive over an hour, into the desert mountains to collect a stranger! Bloom just looked at me and said “trail angels are just that… angels”.

    🛻 After lots of messages back and forth, I sit and wait for a Silver Chevrolet Surburban vehicle (I had to Google what one looked like!). Whilst waiting, Bloom pitched her tent and then we ate dinner together. Bloom will get up early tomorrow morning and hike out. She will keep in touch so I know she is safe.

    ⏰ 7.30 pm - She should be here any minute now as it’s been over an hour. I wait patiently. It’s getting chilly so I put on my fleece.

    👼 8.10pm - We get a text from Dana. “I’m so sorry, the road is blocked so I can’t get through. Can you make yourself safe for tonight and then I’ll come back in the morning from the other direction”. I reply quickly and tell her that I very much appreciate her help. I can’t believe she’s driven all this way (she was about 10 miles from me) and that she’s prepared to go home and then try again in the morning. What a lovely lady.

    ⛺️ I pitch my tent (Bloom was a darling and collected rocks for me to hold down my tent). It’s going to be windy tonight. Was this the last time I’d be sleeping in my tent?……

    Thanks for listening to my rambles. It’s been one brilliant adventure so far and it’s just about to take an unexpected turn of events!

    Signing out.

    Jukebox
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 41

    June 4, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The one with the fantastic trail angel, a hot bath and an idea….

    📍 Location: Officially off trail. Now what?
    💰 Money: $200 for a hotel for two nights and $24 on a meal at Denny’s.

    THE STORY SO FAR:-

    5am - I hear a little voice outside of my tent “Jukebox, I’m off now” says Bloom. I open the tent door and wish her well. “Message me when you get to the water cache Bloom. Stay safe out there. I’ll wait for you in Ridgecrest” I say. “Will do, and please message me when Dana picks you up”. We say goodbye and then I snuggle back into my quilt. If Dana was leaving Ridgecrest at 8am then I would expect her to be here until 9am. I can take my time this morning and close my eyes for another hour or so if blissful sleep.

    6.30 am - I’m wide awake so start packing up slowly. A few people are now coming through for water. By 7am I see a familiar face walking down the trail. It’s Hans! Aka Old Man! He was the guy who kindly left his walking pole in the middle of the trail for me a few weeks back. I give him a huge hug and then notice that he has two poles again. “Please don’t tell me that you purchased another pole?” I said. “Nope, this is the pole that I left for you. You dropped it in the hiker box in Wrightwood so I picked it up again”. He smiled. “It was my pleasure to help you out”. He stayed with me for a while and we chatted whilst I packed up and he filtered water.

    8am - At just gone 8am a big Silver Surburban turned up and a lady called Dana climbed down from the drivers seat. Omg! She’s early and I still had some stuff to pack. I hobbled over and she opened her arms inviting me in for a hug. She held me so tightly as if she was my grandmother who had found a long lost granddaughter. She said “I’m so glad I found you. Are you ok?”. At this point I was just overwhelmed with all the kindness that people have shown me and I burst into tears. She then gave me another hug. Hans helped me by lifting my heavy rucksack into the back of her vehicle and then wished me luck for the journey. Hans always turns up just when I need him.

    8.15 am - Dana’s car is huge and super comfortable. She’s such a kind hearted lady and she talks about her family. She worries about her daughter (nearly 50) who is currently hiking in Washington area. “She’s a nurse” she explains with pride in her voice. “I lost my husband a few years ago and I thought that being a trail angel would help me meet interesting people”. I asked her how long she has been giving rides to PCT hikers and her response surprised me. “You are my first one” she said. “I saw your post on the Facebook Group and thought I need to help that lady. She can’t be dangerous if she is injured!”. I smiled and was super grateful that she took the plunge and collected me. She wanted to hear tales of the PCT and she shared stories of her own travels with her husband.

    8.40am - “Do you want to swing by Walkers Pass and grab a photo?” She asks. “Only if you have time” I offer. I think she is a bit lonely and is enjoying this little adventure today. We pull into Walker Pass Campground and I instantly spot another hiker that I know. “Sorry” is here with a guy called Lucky and a German lady called Leona. Dana offers them a ride to Ridgecrest and they happily accept. We now have a full car and I can see the pleasure that this is giving Dana. She’s asking lots of questions and is super interested about how we are able to walk this far. Suddenly her car phone rings out loud and she answers it. “Hi mum, I’m just checking that you are ok and not lost in the desert somewhere”. She smiles and explains that she has not just picked up the injured hiker but also another three all from different places in the world. We all say hi to her son. Reading between the lines, I think this was a big step for her.

    9.20 am- Dana drops me at my hotel (although she offered to host me at her house but she has already done so much I couldn’t accept). “Are you sure you will be ok?” She asks, looking concerned. “I’ll be fine. Nothing a good nap and a hot bath can’t fix”. I took a one of her business cards and will send her some flowers to say thanks as she refused any monetary compensation for her trouble. I say goodbye to Sorry who I’ve also known since the start of this hike.

    I settle into my hotel room. The first thing I do is have a long soak in the bath and try to figure out what on earth I’m going to do now.

    12 noon - I FaceTime home and it’s so good to see Matt & Rachel. We talk for nearly an hour. Matt says “why don’t you hire a car and then have a bit of a road trip back to San Diego”. I assume that would be expensive but he looks it up and it’s not that bad. After we hang up the call a new plan starts to ferment in my brain. My mind goes back to yesterday and the disappointment of not receiving any trail magic at the water source. I think back to the night of the midnight pizza and coke trail magic and then I know what I need to do. I visit Avis and book a vehicle that would be fine for me to sleep in (7 seater where the seats go down) and from tomorrow I will be a trail angel. I will look after my own Trail family to start with but once they are passed Kennedy Meadows then I will make my way back south along the PCT towards San Diego, offering trail magic as I go. I’m quite excited! This way I get to pay it forward from all the kindness that I’ve received over the last two months. A road trip it is…. Let part two of the adventure begin!

    Signing out for today and again, thank you for following along. I’ve no idea what is going to happen over the next 11 days, but hey, let’s see where the journey takes us!
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 42

    June 5, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The one with the hire van, terrible blisters and happy hikers.

    📍 Location: Walker Pass
    💰 Money: $574 on a mini van rental for 11 days( which I can also sleep in). $84 on trail magic supplies and food for me for the next few days (Walmart is cheaper when you buy in bulk). $10 on pancakes and coffee in a cafe.,

    THE STORY SO FAR:-

    I just want to say thank you to everyone who has followed along with this adventure. I have loved reading all the comments and messages of encouragement and support. It’s truly appreciated. 🙏 ❤️

    This will be my last entry as I will simply be driving and doing trail magic for the next week or so. I may add some extra photos to Facebook, especially from Kennedy Meadows. 😃

    🍳 8am - I’ve been wide awake since 4am. By 6am I needed to get out of the hotel room as I was feeling claustrophobic. I walked to a cafe and lounged around eating pancakes with syrup and two large coffees. I’ve edited all my videos and written up the blogs. I’m feeling quite productive this morning! The walk here was 1.4 miles and is literally around the corner from the car hire place. I can not put my right heel on the floor today which solidifies my decision to get off trail. I made the right choice.

    🛻 10am - I arrive at the car rental place and a nice guy called Eric takes my details. In 10 mins I’m standing in front of a Toyota Sienna with the keys in my hand. “It’s all self explanatory” he says, and leaves me to it! I’m now thinking that this car is huge. I tap the open button and climb into the drivers seat (which is on the wrong side!). Apparently it’s a hybrid car but I have no idea what that actually means. I’m chuffed that it’s an automatic. The key doesn’t go into an ignition, it’s one of those push button starts. The most scary thing is that it’s brand new with less than 200 miles on the clock!

    👋 I turn the engine on and try to link it to my phone. If I’m going to be driving for 700 miles then I need my audio books, Waze, music and podcasts. I can’t get it to work so I turn the engine off and then head back inside to ask Eric for a lesson on the various aspects of the car and to see if he can sort out the phone.

    🏬 30 mins later… I’m all sorted. I’m driving like Miss Daisy and I head down the main road. This feels so weird! I make my way to Walmart and park in a spot miles away from the entrance so that no one can dent the car! (Good training from my hubby!). I then hobble into Walmart and purchase stuff for the day ahead. For trail magic I get cans of pop, bottles of water, Gatorade and fruit. I’m looking forward to seeing their faces! Everyone loves a bit trail magic. Now that I’m not worried about the weight of things, I pick up a big bag of fresh cherries 🍒 my favourite.

    🪄 Walker Pass Trailhead is about 30 minutes drive from Ridgecrest. Bloom, Sketch and possibly Disco daddy will be arriving there sometime today. By the time I get to the trailhead I’m feeling more confident with the car. I set up the polystyrene cool boxes that I purchased with ice and added the drinks. It wasn’t long before my first lot of hikers came through. I was so happy to see their faces when they saw the trail magic in the hatchback. They all had a drink and one lady called me the Root Beer Angel! 😂 have you tried root beer? It’s disgusting, but the Americans seem to love it! (For me it tastes like perfumed medicine).

    😃 By 1.30pm I was greeted by a very exhausted Bloom. She has done so well and smashed the last few days with big miles. She looks tired and needs a few days off. She grabs a Dr Pepper (her favourite) and then sits at the picnic bench for a well deserved rest. More hikers come through. One guy grabs some ice from my cooler then pours some bourbon over the top. He then takes a coke from my cooler and adds this to the mix. He took one look at me and said “heaven” with a cheeky wink! These are my people and I feel right at home. I know what it’s like to receive trail magic after a hard day of walking in the blazing heat. I’m in my happy place right now.

    🕺 2pm - A familiar bright yellow figure dances down the mountain…. It’s Disco Daddy with Miles not far behind him. I greet them both with a big hug and offer them a well deserved ice cold beverage.

    🏨 4pm - I’ve dropped everyone at their hotels in Ridgecrest and then receive a text from The Royals. They are in Ridgecrest and currently resupplying at Walmart. “Do you need a ride back to the trail?” I ask. “ are you sure?” Replies Amber. “Happy to help” I say. I tell them that I need to get something to eat and will collect them from Walmart at 5pm.

    😮 It was so good to see The Royals. Three Brits in a car and not one of us noticed that I was driving on the left until another car approached us head on! Oops! We dialled down the chatter so that I could concentrate on the road. I’m sure it will be second nature in a few days!

    🦶 At the trail head Amber and Harry grabbed their shopping bags and the decanting of produce started on the side of the road. With boxes opened, cheesy Mac going into zip lock bags, electrolytes and sachets of hot chocolate put into snack piles, coffee removed from jars. It was a big mess to start with but it all came together in the end. Rucksacks organised and now it’s time to sort out body parts! Harry declares that he needs to sort out his blisters. I thought mine were bad, but blimey his were really gross (see video). Amber has a painful rash on her leg caused by Poison Oak so she had bought cream to help reduce the irritation.

    🚌 As bodily parts are being looked after, a little noddy bus pulls up and six more hikers disembark. I recognise Sketch and give him a hug. Amber grabs nail polish from him and paints her nails bright blue as she was still waiting for Harry to finish draining his blisters. As I’m here I offer everyone drinks and they all take a mini Gatorade.

    👋 Eventually I wave them all goodbye and head back to Ridgecrest and the comfort of my hotel room…. On the right side of the road I hasten to add!!

    🌙 7.20pm - Just as I’m pulling up to the hotel car park I receive a WhatsApp message from Bloom. “I have a whole roast chicken from Walmart. Feel free to join me, room 210.”. I stop off and enjoy some warm roast chicken and fresh orange juice. We chat about the day. I can see how drained she looks so I thank her for the chicken and then say goodnight.

    It’s been a great day! I know it’s not hiking but I still feel very much connected to the trail. I’ll catch up with more people over the next few days.

    Night night and thanks for following along. I didn’t know whether to keep writing now that I’m off trail but I think I’ll just see what stories will unfold.

    Signing off.

    Jukebox
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 43

    June 6, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The one where I’m reunited with my Bounce Box, I spend time by a huge lake and sleep in the car for the first time.

    📍 Location: Lake Isabella
    💰 Money: I don’t note how much I spent as I wasn’t going to continue writing. At a guess I’d say it was around $60. The Chinese buffet, drinks, resupply top up and a windscreen thingy. But, I did make $20 for giving people a ride 😜.

    THE STORY SO FAR:-

    💤 7am - My day starts with yet another trip to Walmart. I need to get food for the next four days as I don’t want to be eating out every night.

    📦 With my trail angel bucket refilled with goodies I head back to the hotel to get my stuff. My plan today is to drive to Lake Isabella and collect my bounce box. In my bounce box I have “town clothes” which will make a nice change. I’m looking forward to wearing a clean cotton t-shirt and cut off trousers.

    🦊 When I reach Motel 6, I saw Brad who was looking a bit lost. “Hi Brad, did you want a ride to Walkers Pass?”. I asked. “Are you going that way?” He asked with a huge smile on his face. “Sure am. I just need to grab my stuff and get a quick coffee. See you in 30 mins”. My first trail angel job of the day. I drop Brad (now known as SilverFox - I’ll upload a photo so you can see who I’m talking about) off at the Walker Pass Trailhead and give him a hug goodbye. “You got this!” I said. “I’ll see you in Kennedy Meadows in a few days. He smiled and waved goodbye. I listen to the sound of his trekking poles as they hit the ground and he walks off down the hill back to the trail. As his backpack gets smaller in my rear view mirror I have a small pang of regret for not hiking on, but it soon passes. “See you in Kennedy Meadows” I say to no-one.

    🚗 I select “drive” and engage my poorly right foot on the gas pedal. Lake Isabella, here I come!

    It took me around an hour or so to get to the small town of Lake Isabella. It was a strange feeling seeing the sign for the turn off for “Kelso Valley Road” which is where Dana collected me just a few days ago. I pass through a small village called Onyx and then a hamlet called Weldon. These places are just like the Wild West with wooden buildings and bars on every corner. Some even have tumbleweed rolling through!

    📕 I’m listening to an audiobook called “The Other Passenger” by Louise Candlish and I’ve only got 30 mins left of the book. I’ve never read a murder/mystery book before but I’m hooked!

    🤩 Wow! The Lake itself is humongous and beautiful. The road weaves around its circumference and I’m loving the drive. The mountains are surrounding us and it’s good to see the scenery from a completely different perspective. I stop to take a quick video and some photos at a campground called “Paradise Cove”. I may camp here tonight, I thought to myself. (But I didn’t)

    📦 10am - I arrive at the post office just before 10am and collect my bounce box. Looking down at the battered up box, I think about the journey it’s had. I pat the box and say “you are now with me for the rest of this trip. No more smelly post offices”. It’s a good job no one can hear me as I talk to my box in the same way Tom Hanks talked to Wilson the football in Castaway!

    🍰 I lock the car and go exploring. It’s a relatively small town so it doesn’t take me long. I don’t see a single hiker here which feels strange. I mooch around the grocery store but buy nothing. I then hop across the road to a shop that sells everything. Outside there are pushbikes for sale and inside it reminds me of “It’s a gift” or “B&M” but not as big. I do buy some shampoo and also one of those cheap silver windscreen sun reflector things for the van. The lady at the checkout says hi and asks me if I would like to try a dehydrated rice crispy cake that she made earlier today. “Why not, thank you” and I took a small piece as she handed me the little packet. It was super sweet and I couldn’t have eaten much of it. She thought it was great that a hiker loved her rice crispy cakes. “It’s super light” she said with a smile. “I think we have an entrepreneur in the making” I said.

    🛻 I buy a hot tea from Subway and then turn the car around (I need a name for the car/van) and slowly make my way back to Walker Pass.

    🍉 2pm - I reach Walker Pass and park up by the bench where some hikers are already congregating. I join in taking photos (my book is nearly full) and giving out trail magic drinks and the last of the fruit from yesterday. It feels great to see their faces when I offer them a coke or Dr Pepper.

    🚙 4pm - Some hikers are keen to get back to Ridgecrest for resupply, so Pickles and David from the Netherlands hop in. They are camping at Walker Pass as they don’t want to pay for a hotel again so I tell them I’ll pick them up from Walmart a bit later when I’ve had something to eat from town.

    🇨🇳 I sent a message to Bloom “have you eaten yet?” A message comes back instantly and she says “no, are you in town?”. “Yep, give me five and I’ll pick you up.” I drive to Motel 6, just down the road, and Bloom is waiting for me. “What do you fancy to eat?” I asked. “I don’t mind” she replied. “Ok, well I’m not keen on pizza or burgers, so did you fancy a Chinese?. They have an all you can eat buffet just around the corner. “Sounds like a plan” says Bloom. The buffet was spot on and I had three helpings! I then realised that I should probably start thinking about what I eat again now that I’m not hiking!

    👋 I hug Bloom goodbye and tell her that I’ll see her in the morning then head back to Walker Pass via Walmart where Pickles and David are waiting for me, munching on a Subway. I’m loving this trail angel stuff!

    🌧️ Back at Walker Pass I find a spot that I thought was flat (it wasn’t) and set up my airbed etc in the boot. As I did this the heavens opened and it started to pour down with rain. I snuggled up in my quilt which was sliding down the mat as I’m parked at a weird angle. There is zero mobile phone service here so I just listened to the rain as it bounced off the car. As I drift off to sleep whilst looking out at the stars and the super bright moon, I think “I’m glad I’m not in a tent right now!”.

    Night night.

    As always, thanks for listening to my rambles. It’s a bit different now but I’ll keep writing as the stories unfold.

    Signing out.

    Jukebox
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 44

    June 7, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The one with the codgers, Kennedy Meadows and good times.

    📍 Location: Kennedy Meadows
    💰 Money: $30 on food.

    THE STORY SO FAR:-

    💤 5am - Walker Pass Campground - I must admit, I didn’t sleep brilliantly last night as I was parked on a slight slope and kept slipping down the airmat which resulted in my feet scrunched up against the seat. Note to self, park on the flat and swap your head to the other end for tonight! I’m wide awake and would love to just pack up and get going, but I promised to give some hikers a ride into Ridgecrest this morning at 6.30am. Let the “pottering” commence. There is no toilet roll in the pit toilets here, so I take two rolls from the pack of 32 that I purchased yesterday and made my way to the loos. I left one roll in each toilet and then used it myself. These pit toilets seem to be the norm at US campsites. They are relatively clean (much better than UK portaloos!).

    🦷 I then brush my teeth and pack up the van slowly. I’m waiting patiently for the hikers and they all join me around 6.25am looking worse than me! That rain last night and the howling wind made for a restless night for us all. They clamber in and then I’m off. I start with the chit chat but none of them are really talking to me. They just see me as a driver and not a hiker which made me a bit sad. They all continued chatting with each other and planning their next move. I drop them at Walmart and say goodbye. One guy said thanks and the rest just walked off. They didn’t offer any compensation for the ride (not that I was expecting any) but it’s just polite to offer. Well, that’s the first group of hikers that I’ve met in over 600 miles that I really didn’t warm too.

    🏔️ It’s now nearly 7am. I drive to Motel 6 and Bloom is waiting for me. I then drive to American Inn Suites where I collect Disco Daddy and Miles. This is more like it! The chatter is high and the nerves are kicking in for these three. There is a big black cloud in the mountains and they discuss the weather and waterproof clothes. It’s going to be a challenge, that’s for sure!

    👋 We reach Walker Pass and all three hand me $20 each for fuel. I refused to take it, but they insist that I use the money to pay it forward for other hikers (which I will). I hug them all and with a lump in my throat I wave them goodbye. “See you in Kennedy Meadows” I yell as they walk away waving.

    🚗 That’s it! Most of my trail family are now on the last section to the famous Kennedy Meadows. I get back in the car. Next stop for me is KM and I’m actually quite excited!

    👍 The sky is dark and it’s raining quite hard. My thoughts go to everyone who is on that last section of the trail. I hope they are ok and not too miserable. It’s an hours drive (or 3 days of walking!) from Walker Pass and I’m cruising along at a steady 65mph. It’s not long before I turn off the main interstate and head up into the mountains. I see that my phone has 5G so I pull over and decide to check Facebook. By now, day 40 has been published which tells the world that I’m off trail. I hesitate as I click the Facebook icon. I had this gut wrenching feeling that not only had I let myself down, but also the people who have been following me on this journey. I could feel the disappointment ooze through my fingertips as I tapped the notification tab. Sitting in my car, at the side of the road, the thoughts going through my head were so far away from reality. The comments and messages were so kind and full of admiration of what I had achieved, rather than what I hadn’t achieved. I couldn’t read all of them at first through the tears. I had a good cry and decided that it was time to change gear. I have a week left so let’s make the most of it.

    🪨 The mountain pass road is quite spectacular but I can’t stop to take photos as I’m busy dodging rocks on the road. The mini van is screaming at me during some sections and I miss having a manual gear box right now. I’m driving about 25 mph and some guy overtakes me in a Jeep! He must be a local as I soon see his little white car way up on the pass. Switchback after switchback (it’s like being on the trail again!). I see a sign “Kennedy Meadows, 13 miles. Elevation 6742ft. So that’s why my ears are popping!

    👋 I’m greeted by a “Welcome To Kennedy Meadows Community Sign” and I see the famous Grumpy Bear Cafe. I pull into the drive and then make my way inside. It’s full of hikers and I scour the place to see if I recognise anyone. I don’t see a soul that I know which is disappointing. Sitting at the bar, on my own, feeling rather deflated I wonder to myself “where do they do the clapping?”. I’m sipping a hot coffee when I see two familiar faces walk through the door. Is that really them? I think to myself? Yes!! I think it is! It’s The Codgers (David and Joe) from YouTube. They have a huge following and before I left the UK I devoured each of their videos to see what the trail was like. They are both retired but blimey, they know how to hike. I didn’t want look like a fan girl so I kept quiet. The place was busy and there were no seats left apart from the two chairs next to me at the bar. They made their way over and sat down next to me, drinking coffee. David said hi and that was my excuse to start a conversation. Wow! They started in early March and had reached Kennedy Meadows before getting off trail for four weeks to let the snow melt in the Sierras. They are hiking out tomorrow. Puzzled I said “do you know where they do the famous clapping in of hikers?”. Joe said “it’s down at the general store, about 2 miles down the road. We are heading down there shortly, when the shuttle arrives. They had 16 people in that shuttle yesterday and it only seats six!”. I had finished my coffee so asked “do you want a ride to the store? I’m heading that way”. They thanked me and we all took the short drive down the road to the general store. I actually have The Codgers in my car! Cool! They also let me take their photo and they are now in my little book.

    📸 We arrive at the main store and now I recognise it from all the photos and videos that I’ve seen. This is a very special place and it has a great vibe. I see some people that I know but none of my trail family, until Joey comes around the corner. “Jukebox” he says and gives me a hug. Maddie is here as well which is lovely.

    👏 👏 Suddenly our conversation is interrupted but a loud whoop and clapping. I’m guessing that hikers are walking in. Yep, two people that I don’t recognise are waving and taking a bow. People rush to hug them (must be trail family) and it’s just a fantastic atmosphere. This happens throughout the day as hikers make their way to the general store.

    🥾 Then I see two familiar bodies coming up the trail. I well up with pride as Amber and Harry (The Royals) are smiling and waving to the huge round of applause that they are greeted with. I run down the steps and give Amber the biggest hug. “Bloody hell, you two have done some miles to get here today!”. Amber was the first to say “49 miles in two days and it was hell. She then showed me photos of a blow down trees that they had to climb with her sticking her fingers up at them!” Lol

    🍺 They put their packs down and grabbed a beer. It was so good to see them both. Over the course of the evening more people arrived. People that I had given trail magic too which was great.

    😞 We are a bit confused as there is one small group of within our trail family who were ahead of Amber & Harry but had not yet arrived at Kennedy Meadows (and The Royals hadn’t seen them on trail either). That group was Handyman, Charmer, Chill, Kodak and Flamingo. They left the day before the Royals and they are fast hikers so we are all a bit concerned. Where are no they? They should be here by now!!

    🌙 It’s now 7.30pm and the youngsters are getting loud as they consume more beers. I say goodnight to Joey, Maddie, The Codgers and The Royals and head to my van. I spend a bit more time sorting out my sleeping kit and I’m parked on a super flat section of the car park. I clean my teeth, put on my Jim jams and snuggle up into my quilt. I propped my phone up and watched a film about Nike and Michael Jordan (Air) and by the time it was over the rowdiness from the general store had also died down. At this angle I can see the moon shining brightly and the stars are intense. I love it. I’m toasty warm and it’s not long before sleep takes over.

    Night night and thanks for listening to my rambles.

    Signing off.

    Jukebox
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  • PCT 2023 - Day 45

    June 8, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    The one with emergency trail magic, a near costly mistake and a sad farewell.

    📍 Location: Kennedy Meadows
    💰 Money: $60 for fuel, $35 for food.

    PART TWO… THE JOURNEY CONTINUES.

    💤 5am - I’m wide awake and I slept really well in my van last night. I could get used to this van life! There is ice on the windows but I am still nice and toasty.

    ☕️ I brew a coffee and make some chocolate Quaker Oats using my little stove. I get dressed (I can nearly stand up in the van!) and then hear voices from the store. It’s 6.30am and people are awake and moving around so I decide to mingle and join them. I sit with Joey, Maddie, Amber & Harry and they are all chatting about their plans to move forward. I’d already told Joey (now Toasty) that I wanted to hang around at Kennedy Meadows to see my trail family arrive at this monumental place so had told him and Maddie a few days ago that I couldn’t give them a ride to Ridgecrest. They had arranged a ride with someone else who would take them all the way to Chester, which was a result for them. Amber and Harry were also discussing their next plan. I listened (earwigging) quietly to Amber saying “I don’t want to get in the car with that bloke again. His driving is irrational and he just scares me”. Knowing that Amber nearly lost her life in a car accident a few years ago and had to have her spleen removed, I knew how difficult it was for her to feel uncomfortable in a car with an irresponsible driver. “Was he that bad?” I asked and interrupted their heated conversation. “It was awful said Amber. “I had to sit in his trunk of the car where he slept. His blankets smelled of piss and everything was so disgusting that I didn’t want to touch anything. He drove so fast that I was just praying for it to be over”. Harry said “it wasn’t that bad”. Amber have him one on “those” looks and said “you even had to tell him to slow down”. Harry couldn’t argue with that.

    ❤️ I then had a touch of the selfish guilts. This is my trail family and I have a 7 seater car! I can’t let them go with this guy so I have a change of heart and tell them I’ll give them a ride today, but please can we leave asap so that I can get back here to see Handyman, Kodak and Charmer walk in to Kennedy Meadows. “Are you sure?” Says Amber. I nodded . I thought she was going to squeeze the life out of me with the bear hug that she gave me. Bless, they paid for my breakfast as we all tucked in to blueberry pancakes, sausage patties, hashbrowns and scrambled eggs. (I need to slow this eating lark down now that I’m no longer hiking!).

    🚗 An hour later, I have four Brits in the car. Me, Amber & Harry & a guy called Steve. We are off to Ridgecrest which is just over an hour away.

    🙏 The Royals (Amber & Harry) order a car from Avis and then I drop them at Motel 6. Saying goodbye to Amber and Harry was emotional for me. I met them both at mile marker one and Amber did the Chandler dance with me. What a journey we have had together. I’m looking forward to following them both on social media to see how their journey pans out. They are two very special people.

    Steve heads off to The Half Mile Cafe making plans for his next step. I hug them all goodbye and they each give me some cash for fuel. Fuel!! Do I need fuel? I look at dashboard and I have just under half a tank. I’ll fill up here, whilst I’m in Ridgecrest and that should hopefully last me for a few days.

    ⛽️ I pull up to the Shell Garage. I put my card in and it says “begin to fuel”. I grab the green hose but it won’t fit in the petrol hole in the car. I’m super confused. I keep trying but it’s just not working. I must have looked a bit frustrated as a soldier pulled up next to me and said “hello ma’am, are you ok?”. I told him that I don’t understand why the nozzle doesn’t fit my car? “You have a regular unleaded vehicle ma’am, not a diesel” he said. “Oh! So green is diesel?” I ask, looking for reassurance. “It sure is. You need the black hose ma’am “. The labelling was weird but I put the green hose back and picked up the black one and it fitted straight away. Phew! $60 later and I’m good to go.
    Lesson learned… in the US the fuel colours are the opposite way around!

    🍺 Fully fuelled, I now drive an hour or so back to Kennedy Meadows. Loads of people are here and they all clap for me as I walk up the steps as if I’ve just arrived as a hiker. 😂 that made me smile. TourGuide, Handyman, Charmer, Sketch, Chill, M&M. Brad (now SilverFox) and others. These are my people. High fives all around and they already have purchased packs of beer to celebrate.

    📸 The afternoon is similar to yesterday. I’m now filling up my little ThruNote book with photos of people that I don’t want to forget. I meet more new people and geek out with a French guy called Fred and his wife Lilly. I say “geek out” but he is into technology and we chat about drones, Osmo pocket cameras, Insta360’s and much more. He loves my little Polaroid printer and takes a photo of it. I also spend quite a bit of time chatting to Mike who I met yesterday. He is such an interesting character. I’m my book he wrote “Flow” - Don’t push the river, it flows by itself. I love this. In life, our best days are when we simply let the journey unfold.

    🔊 As the day turns to dusk the youngsters are playing garden Jenga and it’s getting very loud. I think the beer is flowing well. Handyman & crew have gone to camp at a Grumpy Bears where they are planning a karaoke night. It’s gonna be messy!

    🍷 I’m chilled with a glass of white wine and listening to their pure happiness. I’m tired, so say goodnight to everyone and retire to my van.

    😴 I slip into my Jim jams, load a film “The Tender Bar” but I don’t watch it all as my eyes are heavy and I’m struggling to stay awake. I can watch the rest tomorrow.

    Night night everyone. Thanks, as always for listening to my rambles.

    Signing out.

    Jukebox
    Xx
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