To the End of the World

Pamplona to the end of the world. もっと詳しく

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To the End of the World Mikka
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日13
2022年7月29日金曜日 22:02
🌙 20 °C
海抜: 827 m
スペイン Monasterio De San Zoilo 42.340375, -4.6112242°20’25” N 4°36’40” W
Carrion de los Condes
2022年7月29日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 20 °C
For 500 years, pilgrims stayed and healed at the Monastery of San Zoilo in Carrion de los Condes. Today, the Monastery is a high class hotel with Michelin priced (and Truck Stop inspired) restaurant.

The monastery features a “Camino de Santiago” theme, which stands in stark contrast to the treatment of pilgrims. And, yes, I stayed here. Paid more than what I’d paid for the past week in accommodation, including a €50 dinner that could have come from the bowels of an East London greasy spoon (and would probably have tasted better).

I wanted to see the Monastery, and the only way to do so is to stay here. Not my proudest and most pilgrim moment, I admit.

Tomorrow, I’ll be back to being Just A Pilgrim, but tonight I am grumpy Mikka, angry at myself for spending so much money to, essentially, just witness the Church (again) strut its riches while asking for more.もっと詳しく
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旅行者This post made me laugh. I'd probably would've done the same
2022/07/31返信する
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日14
2022年7月30日土曜日 10:52
☀️ 20 °C
海抜: 860 m
スペイン Calzadilla de la Cueza 42.3308, -4.76533742°19’51” N 4°45’55” W
Fields
2022年7月30日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
I don’t post very many pictures from the road lately. This is my view. It’s always the same, corn and sunflower fields, for miles.

That is shit for a picture journal, but I love it. My body is used to the walking by now, and my mind gets to soar.

Ten more kilometers, one more break in the middle of that, and I’ll be in Terradillos de Los Templarios.

The weather is amazing, a light wind drives me forward, and the road is light on the feet. I can’t seem to be able to wipe the smile off my dumb face, and I don’t want to. 350 down, 590 to go… and I intend to enjoy the shit out of every single one of them.もっと詳しく
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日14
2022年7月30日土曜日 23:08
🌙 20 °C
海抜: 877 m
スペイン Terradillos de Templarios 42.364328, -4.88454742°21’52” N 4°53’4” W
Compostela
2022年7月30日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 20 °C
Santiago de Compostela derives its name from the myth that, all the way along the Way of St James, the Milky Way will lead you towards it.

This is obviously incorrect, but for about two weeks in summer and in the Meseta it is as close to true as it can be.

Last night I went outside to see the stars and let them guide me. Cell phone pictures do, of course, not do this justice, but with a magnificent sky above me, the galaxies of the Milky Way pointing West toward my goal, even I could and wanted to believe it.もっと詳しく
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日15
2022年7月31日日曜日 9:03
☀️ 16 °C
海抜: 808 m
スペイン Sahagún 42.370342, -5.00034442°22’13” N 5°0’1” W
Half Way Point
2022年7月31日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
This is not 100% accurate, and obviously I am walking further so it only applies to pilgrims ending in Santiago de Compostela, but it’s a moment nevertheless, passing the half way point of the Camino Frances.もっと詳しく
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日15
2022年7月31日日曜日 12:07
☀️ 25 °C
海抜: 813 m
スペイン Calzada del Coto 42.382835, -5.07813142°22’58” N 5°4’41” W
One third
2022年7月31日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
It occurred to me that as of today, one third of this magnificent adventure already lies behind me.

Over 350 kilometer of dust and sun I have met amazing people, shared laughs, patched smaller ailments, talked, and sometimes just sat silent and listened to the Babylonian mix of languages and voices.

Some of those I’ve met have found their calling in pushing each other to new distances, others hurt themselves in that process and had to slow down or drop out.

Everyone’s Camino is different, each walking their own, and so I do not judge. But to me, the Camino is not about proving my manhood or fitness as a pilgrim but about slowing down for the things along the way. An old woman showing us the 80cm long key to her bodega (bodegas are heaps of dirt and rocks under which wine and food is stored), a man telling me about his donkey, or a friendly stranger buying me a coffee and explaining her thoughts on art.

When I arrive in Muxia, the angry sea bashing the darkened rocks underneath me, a red sun setting into a vast ocean, until only the light of the lighthouse remains underneath the stars, the universe won’t ask how long it took me to Leon, but how many new memories, friends, and decisions I have made.もっと詳しく
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日16
2022年8月1日月曜日 7:15
🌙 15 °C
海抜: 856 m
スペイン Bercianos del Real Camino 42.38842, -5.14531642°23’18” N 5°8’43” W
Late Start and „cheating“ a bit
2022年8月1日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 15 °C
Today I am giving my tortured legs a bit of a rest. I’ll be taking a bus past the industrial outskirts of Leon, which is essentially just a cat and mouse game against trucks and speeding cars on the freeway, and I pre-booked my bunk bed in an albergue to have a little more time to get there and see the town.

Yesterday’s 25 kilometers along the freeway, my boots pounding asphalt more than any other surface, led to slightly more discomfort than I am willing to admit (Mikka is getting old). If I want to make it to Astorga on the 4th and Foncebaddon on the 6th, it’s maybe not a bad idea to start fresher tomorrow.

With Leon I am slowly leaving the Meseta for the hilly final 250 kilometers towards Sarria. O Cebreiro and the Cruz de Ferro lie ahead, both nice day-long inclines to the highest and second highest point of my journey respectively, The landscape will turn green again, oak trees at first, followed by eucalyptus forests as the climate goes from desert to mountainous and then ocean.

I’ll certainly miss the gruff landscape and its equally gruff inhabitants. On the other hand, I can do with a little more shade, temperatures are forecast to soar again.もっと詳しく
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日16
2022年8月1日月曜日 12:14
☀️ 28 °C
海抜: 845 m
スペイン Plaza Santo Domingo 42.59565, -5.57550542°35’44” N 5°34’32” W
Barbershop
2022年8月1日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
I had too much hassle with the Mohawk, so now it’s just a Mo. Ten bucks with a cup of coffee and a discussion of Man City vs Liverpool, totally worth the six to nine months to grow back.
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日16
2022年8月1日月曜日 14:02
☀️ 31 °C
海抜: 841 m
スペイン Casa Botines 42.598101, -5.57020642°35’53” N 5°34’13” W
Leon
2022年8月1日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C
This is the view from my hostel. I am literally between Cathedral, Gaudi Palace, and main plaza.
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旅行者Nice spot. What is the name of the Hostel?
2022/08/01返信する
MikkaCovent Garden, new and amazing. Owner did 18 Caminos or so.
2022/08/01返信する
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日17
2022年8月2日火曜日 6:55
🌙 17 °C
海抜: 840 m
スペイン Casa Botines 42.598113, -5.56992642°35’53” N 5°34’12” W
Leaving León
2022年8月2日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 17 °C
It will be a hot day and though I’ll have only 26 kilometers ahead of me, most of it will be pounding asphalt on my way out of León and along N-120.

After last nights‘ discovery of vino de verano (wine with Kas lemon) I slept a little too long, but the feet are happy and the pack feels light, so I have high hopes to arrive with a smile.もっと詳しく
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日18
2022年8月3日水曜日 9:07
⛅ 22 °C
海抜: 859 m
スペイン Villar de Mazarife 42.472805, -5.76102242°28’22” N 5°45’40” W
Mind
2022年8月3日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
I didn’t write much yesterday. I was done. Not physically, I feel absolutely fine, and not emotionally, I am happy as can be, but mentally.

The Meseta ends tomorrow, first over lightly rolling hills, then steeply up and down into Ponferrada. The past week from Burgos, through endless wheat and sunflower fields, has given me a chance to think and clear my mind, just as Navarra and La Rioja shaped my body. Those final 300 to Santiago will be in service of the soul, and yes, there will very likely be tears.

I can’t believe how fast the past 200 went by, deep in thought, plodding along the roads and over dirt tracks. I hope the next 200 will feel longer, I don’t want this to end.もっと詳しく
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日19
2022年8月4日木曜日 9:41
☀️ 21 °C
海抜: 919 m
スペイン San Justo de la Vega 42.460358, -5.98363942°27’37” N 5°59’1” W
La Casa de los Dioses
2022年8月4日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
The last time I came past here was four years ago. Since then the world has changed, and tens of thousands of pilgrims have come past as well. Three first sentence he greeted me with: "You were here before! Welcome back, Iceland."もっと詳しく
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旅行者You must have left a lasting impression. Nice.
2022/08/04返信する
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日19
2022年8月4日木曜日 12:59
☀️ 29 °C
海抜: 876 m
スペイン Astorga 42.454269, -6.05289442°27’15” N 6°3’10” W
Astorga
2022年8月4日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
I have left the Meseta and am entering the hills that will take me to Galicia, the last province on my walk.

Bigger city also means better food. No more wilted leaves on oil, a vegetarian burger and good patatas bravas are waiting for me. Yay!もっと詳しく
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旅行者Fuel up on good food for the road ahead. Keep hydrated 👍
2022/08/04返信する
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日19
2022年8月4日木曜日 19:18
⛅ 32 °C
海抜: 879 m
スペイン Astorga 42.45755, -6.05580342°27’27” N 6°3’21” W
Gaudí
2022年8月4日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C
As Spain lay in the throes of one of the worst poverty driven famines and health disasters, as churches and hospitals had to turn away the sick and ailing, the Bishop of Astorga commissioned this palace from his friend Gaudí. It looks a bit like Disneyland, I guess.もっと詳しく
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日19
2022年8月4日木曜日 22:39
⛅ 22 °C
海抜: 877 m
スペイン Astorga 42.456781, -6.05510642°27’24” N 6°3’18” W
I hosed myself hard
2022年8月4日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
This morning, leaving the albergue of horrors (that’s for a blog post after the trip), I pulled my charger from the communal charging station and the US-EU converter slipped off.

You’d think that a town like Astorga has a shop selling a US/EU converter or a new charger. Nope to both. I have to make do with what I could get, the worlds shittest 18W charger that managed to get my phone from 55 to 75 percent in two hours, not even mentioning the time it took to get my watch charged.

Until Ponferrada I’ll thus be without reliable phone, watch, or tablet charge. I might be able to find an albergue where charging overnight is an option, but most places have communal charging areas and I’d rather not leave my hardware there unattended. Damn, I really need that 100W monster to work again, let’s hope…もっと詳しく
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日20
2022年8月5日金曜日 7:16
🌙 13 °C
海抜: 873 m
スペイン Valdeviejas 42.460483, -6.08710342°27’38” N 6°5’14” W
Up the hill
2022年8月5日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
Today’s leg takes me onto the highest point of the Camino. Once an abandoned town with wild dogs and dangerous paths, Foncebadón has become a bit of a hippie pilgrim haven with vegan bars (and a steak house) a mere hours walk from the Cruz de Ferro.

This is me leaving the second part of the Camino, getting used to the new pilgrim numbers that doubled in Leon and Astorga, and returning to steep inclines and descending rocky paths. The landscape already has turned greener and the winds are less harsh in the morning. I’ll be a good day, see you at the Cowboy Bar 🤠もっと詳しく
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日20
2022年8月5日金曜日 10:37
☀️ 20 °C
海抜: 1,024 m
スペイン El Ganso 42.46283, -6.20711342°27’46” N 6°12’26” W
The Cowboy Bar
2022年8月5日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
A Camino staple and legend, the owner is a man of few words but a heart of gold. It has a foosball table, cold beers, and a Spaniard’s idea of what a Texan bar would look like. There’s no way I’d skip this stop.もっと詳しく
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旅行者How was the bar?
2022/08/05返信する
MikkaExactly the way some guy who has never been to the US, let alone the West, would imagine a cowboy bar to be 😀
2022/08/05返信する
旅行者🤣 that is a spot on description
2022/08/07返信する
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日20
2022年8月5日金曜日 19:14
⛅ 27 °C
海抜: 1,433 m
スペイン Foncebadón 42.491236, -6.3429342°29’28” N 6°20’35” W
(Ascending) to Foncebadón
2022年8月5日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
After a few kilometers of uphill and somewhat hasty uses of shade, I am in Foncebadón. My bed feels soft and the mountain air wafts smells of a nearby campfire into the room.

The best part is the shower. It’s a normal shower, all right, but positioned under a large ceiling window that turns the whole experience into an outdoor event without the exposure. I really didn’t want to leave the lukewarm water and cold mountain wind combination.

Now I am headed across the street to take an early (7:30 is very early in this part of the country) dinner at the vegetarian place and maybe suck down a glass of tinto di verano for dessert.

Tomorrow morning it’s an early rise again to see the sun come up at the Cruz de Ferro.もっと詳しく
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日21
2022年8月6日土曜日 7:35
☀️ 14 °C
海抜: 1,509 m
スペイン Foncebadón 42.48893, -6.36172542°29’20” N 6°21’42” W
Cruz de Ferro
2022年8月6日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
The Cruz was moved in the 80s to get it closer to the tour bus stop, but the original has been here since before the Camino (and, as a heap of rocks since before Christianity).

The following 9 kilometer are steeply downhill until El Acebo, where I am posting this from, drinking Cola Zero and eating way too much.もっと詳しく
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日21
2022年8月6日土曜日 13:07
☀️ 27 °C
海抜: 931 m
スペイン Riego de Ambros 42.520241, -6.47828442°31’13” N 6°28’42” W
A Vegan/Vegetarian Food Truck
2022年8月6日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Being vegetarian on the Camino is hard. But every once in a while something cool comes along. Like this food truck.
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日21
2022年8月6日土曜日 20:50
☀️ 31 °C
海抜: 577 m
スペイン Molinaseca 42.53863, -6.52224242°32’19” N 6°31’20” W
Molinaseca
2022年8月6日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C
Ran into the lady from the vegan place up on the mountain and had some more great vegan food, this time tempura vegetables in a spicy sesame sauce.

Today took everything I had, my poor ACL screaming at me at every step down this steep, rocky, hill. There is no denying it, I am getting older, but put into relation of having walked 500 kilometers to find a place that shows me my limits, I am happy.

I generally just walk head down in thought, but allowed myself some Stanford lectures on neuroscience today, parts of which might make it into a paper on the neuropsychology of the Camino, and some that will probably change how I approach my post-Camino life.

Despite eating a lot I am losing weight and feel better than I have in years. Early exposure to sunlight sets my circadian rhythm perfectly, the exercise combined with success markers at every stop helps modulate my mood.

The only minor speck on the otherwise great day is out albergue which is hot, sticky, and loud. But I have a hunch that I’ll be sleeping very well tonight 😀もっと詳しく
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日22
2022年8月7日日曜日 11:01
⛅ 27 °C
海抜: 543 m
スペイン Museo de la Radio 42.544492, -6.59290842°32’40” N 6°35’34” W
Ponferrada
2022年8月7日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
Had great pancakes for breakfast after an easy 10k walk into town. The castle is a must and free to Icelanders and Norwegians because apparently they paid for it.

Today takes me to Camponaraya and an albergue promising to be better than last nights shite.もっと詳しく
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日22
2022年8月7日日曜日 18:17
⛅ 32 °C
海抜: 493 m
スペイン Camponaraya 42.579788, -6.66849842°34’47” N 6°40’7” W
Alberge Camponaraya
2022年8月7日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C
Of course there was no such luck. The albergue is mediocre but nothing to complain about. But it is in the attic of a local bar, which has a party or something like that and we’re not welcome. So our choice is being in bed in a sweltering room at 3pm or wandering the empty Siesta streets of a Sunday in rural Spain with nothing to do and no where to sit.もっと詳しく
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旅行者That sucks
2022/08/07返信する
旅行者Not good...😔
2022/08/08返信する
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日23
2022年8月8日月曜日 9:23
☀️ 21 °C
海抜: 539 m
スペイン Valtuille de Abajo 42.605563, -6.74893342°36’20” N 6°44’56” W
Mountains in sight
2022年8月8日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
The terrain is getting progressively more rolling and steep, as the vegetation gets thicker and greener. We’re in the last stretch before crossing the mountains into Galicia, the final province.
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日24
2022年8月9日火曜日 7:44
⛅ 17 °C
海抜: 576 m
スペイン Trabadelo 42.649588, -6.88177242°38’59” N 6°52’54” W
A late start
2022年8月9日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Decided to start extra late today and only walk 10 kilometers to the foot of O Cebreiro. I am feeling a bit under the weather, which could be food or lack of sleep and I intend to fix both today.
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旅行者Good stuff. Always listen to your body 👍
2022/08/09返信する
MikkaYeah, I needed that!
2022/08/09返信する
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日24
2022年8月9日火曜日 21:52
🌙 23 °C
海抜: 674 m
スペイン Las Herrerías 42.670753, -6.98100542°40’15” N 6°58’52” W
Leon … done
2022年8月9日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 23 °C
The sun is setting over my last day in the province of Leon. Tomorrow, somewhere up the hill, I’ll be entring Galicia.

The landscape has changed drastically, from a flat, barren, and dusty scenery to lush greens and steep inclines and declines. It rained a bit today, and did yesterday as well, which feels good on the skin and for the soul.

Updates will be more frequent now, including videos, since I have crushed my time goal to O Cebreiro, leaving me space for a more casual and leisurely stroll over the final 320 kilometer.もっと詳しく
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5いいね

もっと詳しく