Our Walk About Italy!

September - Oktober 2024
  • Lansers on the Loose ...
I love to walk and was delighted to discover a tour company called "Walk About Italy" that offers walking tours off the beaten tourist path! We are eager to explore the magical areas of Cinque Terre and the Amalfi Coast on foot! 👣 Weiterlesen
  • Lansers on the Loose ...

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  • Italien Italien
  • Kanada Kanada
Kategorien
Pärchen, Natur, Sehenswürdigkeiten, Ausflüge, Urlaub
  • 19,6TKilometer gereist
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  • The bus to the train station!
    A quick capuccino (before 11:00am ... so no Italian protocols were violated)😉The wet view through the train window enroute to Pisa!Piled up our luggage on the seats!

    A Wet Welcome to Pisa

    8. Oktober 2024 in Italien ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Today was a travel day for us with much rain in the forecast!

    Up early and trying to fit everything back into the suitcases! Aside from a couple small purchases ... it seems tighter than before! How does that happen??

    All in all, in our Walk About Italy- The Eonders of Amalfi, we covered 56 kms on foot!  It was more than I bargained for in terms of effort and intensity and time, but also more than we bargained for in terms of awe, wonder and joy!

    And maybe one the best things about this trip was the wonderful connections we made with our fellow walkers. It's truly magical to see how guickly bonds are formed when we do arduous things together! I was ever grateful for the encouragement of "not much further" or "you're doing great" or high -fiving because we "did it". Whether "it" was 1308 uneven rock steps down ... or ... endless hikes to unknown Vista straight uphill.

    After a day of travelling to Pisa via one bus, two trains and a taxi ... we don't even mind the rain. It gives us a chance to snuggle in ... catch up on these blogs ... and ... get to bed early without FOMO on fun with our new friends!

    We meet our new group of fellow walkers tomorrow. Part of me is hoping they are as wonderful as the last group ... and ... part of me is hoping they won't be as much fun, so I can get more sleep I deveoped puffy bags under my eyes fromm all the late nights!! 😉

    We opted to stay the night in Pisa because we missed this destination on our last trip to Italy. With all the rain ... and no end in sight in the forecast ... I'm not sure if we'll see the leaning tower this time either.

    We enjoyed a really good burger with homemade potato chips in the restaurant and then hopped into bed by 8:30pm. We want to be rested for the new journey ahead!

    Hugs from Iyaly,
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
    Weiterlesen

  • On the Rails Again!

    9. Oktober 2024 in Italien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We were excited that we didn't have to set an alarm today! We awoke before 7:00am anyway! 😉 We headed down to breakfast and who should be there?? Well ... a lady and her husband from Quebec were there! It was so crazy because we actually sat and chatted with them outside the garden when we were on our Amalfi tour. They were staying at the same hotel as us. And, it turns out they are coming to Cinque Terra and staying in Levanto too!!

    I always think it is meaningful when people keep crossing paths. I have no idea what meaning I am giving it ... but ... it seems like the Universe is putting us in each other's presence for a reason. If we see each other again while we are in Cinque Terra, I am going to get really curious about it all!!

    The clouds were threatening rain, but after breakfast we dared to walk 20 minutes to see the leaning tower of Pisa! We weren't sure if it would be worth the trek... and ... feared that if we got lost we'd be late for our check out and miss our train to Levanto! However, we are so incredibly glad we took the risk! An audible gasp escaped me when we came around a corner and I spotted the top half of the tower! I have seen pictures of it, but they don't do it justice!

    It came into full view as we arrived at the square!! It is so beautifully maintained! We were so impressed! Actually, we now wish we had given ourselves more than one night in Pisa! It has such beautiful energy about it! Lovely little lanes and a large river running through it. The faces of the buildings are old but they are painted different colors. It reminded us of Denmark!

    We hopped the train from Pisa to Levanto! It was a little hard to tell when to get off ... and ... we had a really long stop at one of the stations. We ended up being 25 minutes late in arrival, but have no idea what was going on.

    We were starving by the time we arrived and scooted across the street to the hotel restaurant! The old boy ordered the rabbit and I had tge ravioli! He contends ... not surprisingly that this dish of rabbit is the best yet! Even better than the one he most enjoyed in Cuba.

    With our bellies full, we met our new group at 4pm. We wandered the small alleys and lanes of Levanto and enjoyed a ferinata. It's made from chick peas and was delicious!

    Then we took a local train to Vernazza. This is a small fishing village that is classified as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. It was so quaint! I fell in love with it immediately!

    We stopped at a little trattoria for dinner and had a chance to get to know folks in our new group. There are 5 folks from Australia, 4 from USA, one couple from South Africa and us.

    We are off to bed early and looking forward to our adventures tomorrow!

    Grateful that we didn't get wet tonight,
    ❤️k&j❤️
    Weiterlesen

  • It's Supposed to be a Wet One Today!

    10. Oktober 2024 in Italien ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    We awoke to forecasts of rain for most of the morning. Our itinerary was changed because we were supposed to walk through the vineyards of Riomaggiore and visit the Monastery of Montenero, but apparently the walkways can become very slippery when wet.

    So ... our changes for the rain included a train ride to Corniglia instead. This is one of the five terraces of Cinque Terra (that we were not supposed to visit) but ... the rain changed our plans.

    Corniglia is the only one of the terraces that is not at sea level. We climbed 373 steps to reach the village. It didn't seem too hard though, because these steps are made of flat bricks in the middle of the walkway. They are soooo much easier to navigate than the uneven rocks that lined the paths in Amalfi!

    This might be a good time for me to share that Cinque Terra is a National Park. The five terraces include Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso. We learned that fishing is strictly prohibited between the two capes that bookcase Cinque Terra. The National Park pays for public busses that provide uphill and downhill transportation in each of the villages.

    We enjoyed a visit to Vernazza last night and really had a wonderful morning! The scenery was not just spectacular ... it was entirely magical. One of the things I am really enjoying about this 'Walk About..." is the pace. It is quite different than Amalfi! We are offered more time to take pictures and really soak in the beauty that surrounds us! I'm not sure if the location is what makes the difference ... or... the guides, but we are thoroughly enjoying the pace of the this incredible tour. So far, it is more in keeping with what I expected when I signed up for the two 'Walk About Italy' itineraries.

    We could not have been more pleased than to realize that our change in plans meant we averted a massive downpour of rain. We sauntered through the villages (dry) and I took so many pictures that I drained my battery. I wish I could share them all, but here is a small smattering of them.

    We also really enjoyed a short break between 3 and 5pm to head back to the hotel! It was a chance to digest some of the wonderful moments we experienced this morning! And, we meet again at 5pm to head out for dinner and a short walk. We've already logged 9,367, so I'm not sure how much further we will walk, but it has not felt the least bit grueling. And, the sun has come out!!! I am so happy to go wherever the guides take me!👏👏👏

    We wnded up taking the train the Manarola for dinner. We caught the sunset! I will post the photos separately in another blog!

    See you there,
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
    Weiterlesen

  • Sunset in Manarola

    10. Oktober 2024 in Italien ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    As I shared in Part 1 of the blog for today ... we took z train to Manarola for dinner. This Terra e is incredibly popular for sunsets! We were extra fortunate that the recent bad weather fostered a magnificent sunset for us to enjoy!

    Let me bore you with photos from the 40ish minutes that we witnessed the sun decanting behind the ocean! ❤️❤️❤️

    We also enjoyed a very fishy dinner! The old boy was in heaven ... and ... I was pleasantly surprised.

    It was another exceptional day in this incredibly sensational part of the world!

    See you tomorrow for more memory making,
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
    Weiterlesen

  • It Was Uphill Again Today!!

    11. Oktober 2024 in Italien ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Today, we set off to Moneglia ... which is the Latin names for "jewels". The jewels are the hills which bring the riches of wine and olives and persimmons and many other delights to mankind!

    This cute little medieval village off the beaten path in Cinque Terra. It's unusual in that the road that runs over the old railway has just two street lights on it. The green light changes only once every 20 minutes ... so ... the locals must plan their travel around the timing of the light change! Isn't that hilarious! Well ... maybe it's not hilarious if you are waiting for the light to change.

    I just cannot get over the way these terraces have become home to many, many people! Our guide, Letizia lives in this charming place. She and her husband own a restaurant high up on the hills. We hiked up and up and up and up and up to get there! It was well worth every deep breath, every calf stretch and every gluteus maximus contraction it took to arrive there! This little 'gem' is also the home to the only sandy beach in the region.

    The view from our table was breathtaking! Leti shared that her father grows olives and that this weekend will be harvest time. It is a grueling task which has been made more difficult by the scarcity of processing mills. There used to be 13 in the area but now, if I heard her correctly, there is only one.

    In order to get Extra Virgin Olive Oil, the olives must be processed within 24 hours of being picked!! I had no idea. It is no wonder that EVOO is so expensive! She shared that if it is pressed more than once, it is usually pressed with chemicals ... so ... regular olive oil is not as healthy as the EVOO.

    We enjoyed the most delicious starter in this restaurant. It was zucchini and onions deep fried in the most light and scrumptious batter I have ever tasted!! After that, Leti's husband demonstrated how they make pesto. It was so interesting because there is no set recipe. Given that the area was very poor, the recipes were simply suggestions that invited you to add things like garlic "If you have".

    I am not an avid pesto fan, but ... once again ... I really enjoyed it after it was added to the trofia pasta!! This particular pasta was only made with flour and water ... but ... "If you have eggs" you could add that too!

    I have now enjoyed anchovies (once) and mussels (once) and pesto (once!). Italy appears to be stretching my palate!! I also got to taste persimmons today! They grow on the trees here in abundance and our chef made the most lovely flambe to go with them and some ice cream ... that I also really enjoyed!!!

    We ended the day early and then hiked all the way down the hill to the train station. We arrived back at the hotel and enjoyed a free afternoon! We very much appreciated the opportunity to do our laundry ... again! We are moving to Rapallo tomorrow and will be there for the last three days of our "Walk About ...".

    Oh ... I should also share that Leti also took us to an Oratory. These buildings are often confused with churches because they look very similar, but it is not a church. It is a group of people who are Catholics, but have come together to do good works ... help the less fortunate, social justice etc. There were many fading frescos on the walls and a painting that was hidden on the ceiling because it was rumored to be very valuable.

    Okay ... I shall say good-bye for now. Hope all is well with all of you at home. Ciao from us ... for now,
    ❤️k&j❤️
    Weiterlesen

  • Hello Rapallo!

    12. Oktober 2024 in Italien ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We started the day with a walk from Levanto along the old train line to Bonassola. This charming little fishing village boasts one of the most lovely beaches of the Italian Riviera.

    Along the way, we bumped into some nuns who were on their way to the building we could see way off in the distance at the tip of the cape. We learned that they were on the their way to 'Our Lady of the Cape' ... a little stone chapel that was built in the 1600s.
    Of course, the old boy started flirting with one of them and he learned she was from Africa. When I asked if I could take a photo, she snuggled right in under his shoulder. We chatted briefly with all of them before they scooted off into the distance. They all seemed to be so light-hearted to me. One of the other people on our tour also commented that they seemed so joyful ... quite unlike the nuns that her husband had experienced while in school.

    Little did we know, but that chapel was exactly where we were headed as well. We stopped for a little coffee break and bathroom break. It was only 10:30am ... but ... the old boy was not the least bit interested in any more coffee. He contended that he was ready for a nice white wine and was not to be dissuaded by the good natured shaming that was aimed in his direction. I ended up being grateful that he ordered it, because it came with a delicious plate of appetizers and I was already hungry. 👏👏

    By the time we joined the nuns at the cape ... it was like we were old friends. They welcomed us, with the warmest smiles ... to gather with them in that wee, small space. Their celebration of their joyful spirits was so evident in their songs! I recognized one of the songs, but could not remember the words well enough to sing along. I was simply moved to tears by the experience! ❤️

    We then walked up to the convent and enjoyed the most delicious lunch at Buranco. The view was exceptional as we gazed upon the hillsides lined with olive orchards and vineyards!

    By the time we got back to Rapallo we had logged 14,451 steps (about 10kms). The old boy is really appreciating the knee brace ... and ... I am delighted to share that I haven't needed analgesics nor anti-inflammatories since Amalfi! 👏👏👏👏👏

    After a little time to freshen up, we headed out on foot again for our dinner reservation. We could not believe our eyes when, while enroute, an amazing fireworks erupted right beside us!! I've added a snippet, but I took three videos in total! Theraucous display went on for almost 5 minutes!

    We enjoyed another wonderful meal and, once again, ate far too much. We toddled home later than I would have preferred ... but ... we fell asleep with our hearts as full as our bellies! 🙌

    Hugs to you all,
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
    Weiterlesen

  • Rain, Rain, Go Away .....

    13. Oktober 2024 in Italien ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We have lost track of what day it is more than once on this trip! Today was no different! 🥴 As I was trying to orient myself to time and space, I realized it was Canadian Thanksgiving and we would be missing dinner with our family this year!

    Although we are not sitting around the table celebrating with them, we are basking in so much gratitude for this trip and for the good health that allows us to remain so active! We clocked 18,655 yesterday (13.09kms) and logged another 16,000 steps today (10.58kms) and we haven't even had dinner yet!

    While the rain was threatening to dampen our day ... we were super grateful it turned out to be just a couple of light showers! We hopped onto a local bus which took us to Santa Margherita Ligure. This was the start of our hike up to the Valley of the Mills ... where we passed oodles of olive trees. We ended up enjoying a fabulous lunch at the olive/almond mill way! Sorry ... no food pictures! I was hungry by the time we arrived that I just got lost in the moment of savoring every morsel!

    I wish I had taken pictures, however, because the old boy particularly enjoyed the 'lard shavings' on the charcuterie board. Seriously. They were laying aside the salami and the cheese. We even had to ask what it was. He LOVED it.

    After our tummies were full ... we bundled up to protect from the rain shower and headed down the hill to Portofino. I had heard of Portofino, but came to understand it is a very posh little town with high end shops! We walked into one of the shoe stores and the sales person immediately looked to my shoes. I guess she wasn't impressed with my Salomon hikers because she didn't even greet me. I was clearly not of the right class or caliber to have been warmly welcomed to her establishment! We took our exit promptly!😉

    We picked up a Christmas ornament to hang on our tree and enjoyed a lovely glass of wine instead of risking further chagrin! We were clearly out of our element here!! 🤣😂

    We caught the ferry back to Rapallo and will enjoy a nice dinner and evening on our own tonight! It's been so incredible ... but ... I am peopled out and conversation-ed out for today. I will enjoy the silence of being on our own for the evening.

    Tomorrow is our last full day here. In some ways, we can't believe it is already coming to an end, but in other ways, we are ready to go home. We have five nights in Positano on our own, though, before we are flying home.

    So ... I have to wish that the rain will go away again tomorrow. The forecast is not looking good! It is supposed to start raining at midnight tonight and has a 90% chance of raining clear through until Tuesday morning. Yikes!!!

    That said, we've had forecasts for rain that never came true. If we get wet on our last tomorrow ... we will have nothing but gratitude for all the rain we DIDN'T get that was forecast.

    Okay ... so night, night for now! Happy Thanksgiving to all our Canadian loved ones! xoxo
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
    Weiterlesen

  • Our last day with 'Walk About Italy'

    14. Oktober 2024 in Italien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Well ... the forecast is for more rain, but the radar map looks good! 🤞 I'll carry my rain coat ... just in case.

    We took the train to Chivaria. This is a very affluent community. It remains authentic in that there are very few, if any, tourists ... except us! It was such a treat to meander amongst the locals and get a window into their day to day experiences.

    We stopped at a restaurant for lunch that was recommended by our guide. We arrived right at noon when it opened and got a table. By 1:00pm there was a line up of locals waiting for a seat.

    The menu is posted on a blackboard outside the door. We opted to have the farinata, the vegetables and the minestrone soup! It was absolutely delicious!

    Oh ... when we were in Spain, I discovered an eyebrow pencil that I loved from KIKO of Milan. I bought one ... for $16.99Eur. Once I knew I really liked it, I looked online to order more, but they were $30! I found a Kiko in the Naples train station. The pencils were $13.99Eur there. So I bought six. Then, I got to thinking that my life expectancy might be more than six eye brow pencils worth, so when I saw a Kiko here in Chivaria, we went in. Only $9.99Eur here!! I bought six more! 🙌

    After our delightful lunch, we were in search of an espresso and a dessert. The old boy had "the baba of all babas" ... i.e. the best ever! 😉

    We also learned that espresso has less caffeine than a drip coffee because the water is only on the coffee for such a short while! We also learned that it is be drank in two sips! Who knew???? Oh, and it's a cardinal sin to drink Cappucino after 11:00am. I might have mentioned this before, but it's such a faux pas that it bears repeating! 🤣

    After some free time we met our group for our last walk together. We hopped a bus that took us high us the cliffside to Ruta. From there we walked all the way down to the seaside!

    My eyes enjoyed it, but my knees weren't so fond of that trek. After about an hour of walking, we were invited to use the public toilet on the cliffside ("probably no paper though" because it would be " two hours before the next toilet stop." Thank goodness one of group members had some wipes.

    We finally arrived at a remote little cove where a rubber dingy was parked! My heart skipped a beat becsuse there was no one in sight! It was raining more by then and my thoughts were anxiously racing: "Seriously????? It's been a top notch tour thus far. We can't be heading off into the Liguerian Sea during a rainstorm in a dingy?????" 

    Before I panicked completely, someone caught sight of a larger rubber ducky speeding  towards us!  It was like a scene out of 'Survivor' when the castaways see a boat slowly coming into view out of the mist/fog over the water!

    Unfortunately, it was so small that it could only take 7 of the 15 of us ... due to the weather. The rest would have to wait until the next run. Fortunately for us, we escaped on the first tour back to civilization! It was wet but added some drama to the day!

    We made up tall tales about our narrow escape from the jellyfish as we sailed the stormy seas to safety! 🤣

    We landed in a gorgeous little seaside village called Camogli! Despite the increasing rain, we explored a little bit before we arrived at 'La Rotonda' for dinner!

    We thoroughly enjoyed our final dinner together and hopped a train home for night. Many hugs were exchanged, along with hospitable invitations for reconnections that were extended "if you ever come our way!"

    All in all, our time walking about Italy 🇮🇹  has been so rich and rewarding. We are tempted to do another tour ... maybe Sicily or Tuscany  or The Lakes in the north.

    I guess time will tell, but ... I could not believe my ears when the old boy  uttered the following:

    "Walking is addicting!"

    I couldn't agree more and am grateful he's got the bug! ❤️

    P.S. It's so funny because the itinerary said that today we would be having a relaxing day. It turned out to be almost 20,000 steps by the time we got back to the hotel!!
    I'll post some pics of our time in Camogli in a second post!
    Weiterlesen

  • Camogli

    14. Oktober 2024 in Italien ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    A tiny little seaside town with oodles of character! A fabulous end to a terrific tour! ❤️❤️❤️

  • And ... I'm Tour Guide Again

    15. Oktober 2024 in Italien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    With our two "Walk Abouts..." both behind us now, we're off to Positano today! I'm back in the tour guide saddle. Part of me is dreading it already and another part of me is looking forward to the flexibility and no alarm clocks for a few days!

    We enjoyed a nice breakfast and after a few more heartfelt goodbyes, we were headed towards the train station. We had been notified that our train was delayed by 14 minutes, so we thought maybe we'd have time to stop at a couple shops.

    Thankfully, one of our guides was taking the same train and noticed that it was more recently cited to be 'on time' again. Thank goodness we didn't dawdle when we thought we had extra time because we'd have missed our train! 🥴

    Five hours to Rome and then another train to Naples. We indulged ourselves by getting a private transfer from Naples to Positano. Sadly, however, there was a five car pile up on the highway and we ended up taking twice as long to get to Positano than we expected.

    Thank goodness I didn't have to tinkle! It would have made the extra hour exceptionally unbearable.

    It was dark by the time we got to Villa Mary. And, due to the Amalfi terrain, they couldn't drop us at the door. The driver said it was sbout 30 steps up and then straight ahead. We scoffed as we kept walking ... wondering when it would end!

    Some kind fellow was walking his dog and he asked where we were going and carried up one of our bags!!

    The owner of the villa met us in the lane and carried one bag the rest of the way. She brought us a bottle of wine and invited us to take our time and get settled comfortably on our deck before we officially checked in.

    As Taziana shared the map, she recommended we get the shuttle to a restaurant up the hill. We thought we were going to have to miss dinner, but this option worked so well.

    Apparently, this family owned restaurant still has Nonna working in the kitchen. One of the family offers a shuttle because otherwise people wouldn't go all the way up the hill to eat.

    It was hilarious, though, because we didn't, initially, get a table overlooking the cliffside. Once it was available, the shuttle driver was cleaning tables and he then told us to grab our drinks. We had no idea what he was doing. He moved our whole table so we could enjoy the view from the cliffside. Only in Italy ... 😆

    A short shuttle home and wefound ourselves settled into a much softer bed than is typical of our experience in Italy, thus far. The pillows were also so good. We had such a wonderful sleep!

    We are looking so forward to seeing what our time here will look like! I made the mistake of looking at the forecast. I am hoping that we will be lucky again and not get as wet as currently predicted!!

    Hugs to all,
    ❤️ k&j ❤️

    P.S. Less than 5000 steps logged today!! The 'walkabout' is clearly over ... 😉
    Weiterlesen