• Lansers on the Loose ...

Our Walk About Italy!

I love to walk and was delighted to discover a tour company called "Walk About Italy" that offers walking tours off the beaten tourist path! We are eager to explore the magical areas of Cinque Terre and the Amalfi Coast on foot! 👣 Read more
  • Trip start
    September 28, 2024

    Farewell to Canada for now ...

    September 28, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Today is the day our new adventure begins! Thank you Lethbridge for kissing us good-bye with ribbons of red and yellow waving through the darkening skyline last night. I will miss the ever special sunsets we get to enjoy in our home here in Lethbridge ... but ... I am guessing, hoping, trusting that Italy will offer up a few of its own as we gaze westward out towards the seas from the Amalfi Coast and Cinque Terra!

    I woke up this morning feeling a wee bit eager for our trip ... despite knowing that it will be a long, long, long day of planes, trains and automobiles before we arrive at our Airbnb tomorrow in Piano di Sorrento! We are spending three nights in the Sorrento area before our walking tour of the Amalfi Coast begins.

    I still have to be the tour guide until October 2nd. And, today will be a very, very long one because it doesn't end until tomorrow! Our itinerary looks like this:
    Leave home at 10:45am Sept 28th
    Ride to the bus terminal in Lethbridge...thank you Sweetie! (15 minutes)
    Flix Bus to downtown Calgary (3.25 hours)
    Uber from downtown Calgary to YYC (30 minutes)
    Flight from Calgary to Rome (9 hours and 55 minutes)
    Shuttle from Rome airport to Rome Train station (32 minutes)
    Rome train station to Naples train station (65 minutes)
    Naples train station to Piano di Sorrento train station (63 minutes)
    Piano di Sorrento train station to Airbnb (8 minute WALK)
    Arrival at Airbnb ... @ 6:00pm (tomorrow!)
    Since the pandemic, we have travelled with carry-on only ... but now ... we are checking one bag as well as taking our carry-on bags. It turns out that geriatric galivanting in the "golden years" now involves trekking poles, knee braces, tubs of medicated ointment for cranky knees that won't fit in the carry-on and pain killers for comfort! These things take up more space than I realized. So ... a checked bag it is. The extra suitcase complicates the ease of train hopping when you are rolling more than one bag, but I have faith in the old boy's "cougar reflexes" to manage the extra suitcase. Fingers crossed that it arrives in Rome when we do!

    I decided to post this preamble to our trip because I don't expect to write again until we finally kick off our shoes tomorrow night at the Airbnb. I hope to catch up with you then on how all the connections went on our 'never-ending' day of commuting!

    Looking forward to seeing you again then!
    ❤️k&j❤️
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  • The Universe is Conspiring on my Behalf!

    September 29, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Our daughter kindly taxied us to the bus depot. I don't think we tipped her enough though! 😘 And, we enjoyed a lovely ride up to Calgary on the Flix bus ... savoring the sunshine and Autumn colors

    Amazingly, we triggered NO bells or whistles through security. That had to be a first! Usually one of us is out of bounds ... 🥴

    We had an ontime departure and got to load in Zone 1. We are learning there are many perks to flying "Premium Economy" including white linen dinner and breskfast service ... lovely white wine ... comfy wide seats with footrests that raise ... blankets that we didn't need because it was warm ... pillows and oodles of leg room!!

    But all of this luxury doesn't hold a candle to the most unbelievable thing that happened so far on this trip ... maybe in my life!  I still cannot wrap my head around what transpired as we were seated in a nice little restaurant sipping some wine and enjoying some appetizers.

    I got up to take a walk and refill our water bottles and when I returned to the table, the old boy was chatting it up with a fellow who had been seated at the table beside us. My hubby never misses a chance to talk with a stranger!! 

    We learned he was travelling overseas alone because his wife had a medical issue just a few days ago. He spoke about feeling guilty for leaving her behind but he had a couple weeks off work and she suggested he continue on without her.

    Before I continue ... a little back story is essential. I am an only child and am grateful I got to know one of my cousins on my mom's side (Betty Anne) ... but ... due to family strain arising from the estate of my grandmother, I never got to know the others.

    I watch my grandchildren enjoying such strong loving relationships with their cousins ..  and ... it magnifies my interest in generating bonds with the family I have never known. 

    So, recently I reached out to Betty Ann and two of my girl cousins (Laura Lee and Cynthia) to see if we could meet for lunch. We have set a date for Nov. 7th. I also have a cousin named Rick Peterson who I have not seen for about 55 years. His mom (my mom's sister Doris) passed away in her sleep about 53 years ago when my cousin Ricky was just 12 years old. He had an older brother, Dell, who was about 14 years older than him. After my Aunt Doris died, my Uncle Ivan and the boys moved around alot. Consequently, my mom's side of the family completely lost touch with all of them. 

    So anyway ... a few years ago, my cousin Betty Ann and I had talked about looking Ricky up. Bette had heard he worked with the Calgary police service ... but for some unknown reason, she and I never followed up on our good intentions.

    Okay ... so back to our conversation in the airport. We learned that the solo traveller seated beside us is currently living in Kelowna but used to live in Calgary. During the conversation. he shared that he retired from the police force some time ago. I knew it was a long shot, but when I heard that, I felt compelled to ask him if he had ever known ... or ... heard of ... or ... worked with someone called Rick Peterson?  

    He got a very quizzical ... maybe hesitant (?)... but very strange look on his face. I filled the subsequent pause with an apology for asking such an odd question ... but ... explained that I had a cousin named Rick and wondered if he might know him.

    At that point, he looked at me and said ... "I am Rick Peterson."

    What??!!???  It seemed too crazy to be true. I asked if he had a brother Dell. He confirmed it to be true! His dad was, indeed, Ivan.

    So, there I was ... looking into the eyes of my long lost cousin!!

    Seriously ... it felt entirely surreal!  He was equally astounded to hear that our mothers were sisters. 

    So ... it feels like some wildly, divinely designed serendipity was at play here. Who finds long lost relatives at the airport while heading away on vacation?!?

    We took a photo and shared a hug before we had to board our plane. I will look forward to sharing my "find" with my other cousins ( who are also his cousins) when we meet for coffee. And, we might have to travel out to Kelowna to spend more time reconnecting with him!

    Isn't that just the best story ever?? My heart was so full as we landed in our spacious premium seats and enjoyed spectacular service and white linen meals. We also slept for about 5 hours too. And, if all that wasn't enough to convince me that the Universe was conspiring to do me good ... we even arrived in Rome 40 minutes early!

    The good juju continued as we were able to take an earlier shuttle from the airport to the train station and then paid a bit extra to take an earlier train from Rome to Naples.

    From there we hopped on the local train and arrived in Sorrento a couple hours ahead of schedule!!. 

    The cab couldn't get us to our airbnb because roads were closed due to a religious celebration! There is a carnival happening outside our door tonight!! The fireworks just sounded too! It's a bit too busy for me but as I am writing this ... the old boy is down getting some authentic street food from one of the vendors! Apparently it's made from cow nose or pigs feet! 😬

    By the time we got to the Airbnb, our 20+ hour commute was catching up with me. I could have kissed our host when I saw that he had placed a bottle of Italian wine on the table for us. It tasted so divine!

    We found our way to the grocery store and reminded ourselves... more than once as we scarfed down our pizza ... that we are in Italy! 🇮🇹

    We are so grateful to be here and look forward to exploring more after a much needed sleep! For now, we really need to tuck into bed. I will say goodbye for now and catch up with you again tomorrow!

    Lots of love,
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
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  • Walk, Eat, Walk, Drink, Walk & Be Merry!

    September 30, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Its always fun to get settled into a new hotel or airbnb! Our place here is quite lovely, but it should be advertised with a disclaimer: Narrow people need only apply! I can hardly fit through the space in the shower doors and the old boy has to squeeze in sideways! I have no idea how anyone larger would use the bathroom facilities??

    We started our first full day in Sorrento with some breakfast at home, but followed it up with a tasty little capuccino at a local place around the corner from us. As oodles of local patrons came in for their morning esspresso, we realized that it is customary here for the high test coffee drinks to come with a side of water! I'm not sure why, but we both drank it! The java was such a great reminder of how good European coffee tastes! 

    We had already logged 10,000 steps by 1:00pm! We found our way to the Piano train station so we know our way there when we leave this beautiful place. And we wandered the area a bit before we mosied up the chutzpah to WALK back to Sorrento train station to get a map of the area. It was a $40 EUR taxi ride from there yesterday, but we decided to do the 2.8kms on foot.

    It was a very loud, precarious and nerve wracking trek because long stretches of it were right on the road beside the constant traffic. They created a pedestrian path that is about 18" to 24" wide (at best)! My nervous system was not liking it. I would honestly have turned back but the old boy passionately pesuaded me to carry on. I'm really glad he did. We had such a great day exploring Sorrento!! 🤩

    We stopped for lunch at "iL Leone Rosso"... and had a local white wine! Best ever!! The menu was the size of a book! It was impossible to decide. I opted for canneloni and the old boy had a seafood risotto. His dish was so loaded with seafood, he said he felt like he was opening little gifts with every bite. He acquired a huge pile of shells on his plate! And, the server surprised us with a "present for you." He brought us a complimentary bruschetta! It was amazing. Crusty bread for sopping up tasty sauces is served in a brown bag. The dessert was ricotta cheesecake with pears. Very nice. And, the bill comes with a very icy cold and complimentary limoncello! I just love Italy!! 😋

    After our leisurely two hour lunch, we wandered down the 100 steps to the Port of Sorrento. It was a perfect 22°C sunny day to sit by the sea and enjoy a Campari Orange! It's a signature drink here in Italy but we've never tried one before. However, our dear friend Sig loves them. It was exceptionally refreshing! And, we noticed the Italians make ice cubes with holes through the middle! So smart! 👏 They are better for cooling the drink and you more ounces of good stuff in the glass! 👍

    After that, we hiked back up the cliffs and retraced our steps to make the long journey home. By the time we got back, we had logged 19,584 steps ... i.e. 13.84 kms! We'll be lathering our knees with our medicated ointment tonight! 😉

    We're home now ... not the least little bit hungry yet and it's already 7:30pm. I'm not sure what the rest of the evening will bring ... but ... we sure had a great day! Hope all is well with all of you!

    See you tomorrow,
    ❤️ k& j ❤️
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  • What? Where? Why?

    October 1, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    So ... this gadget was on the counter when we checked into our airbnb. 🤔 Anyone know what it is? We have no idea but don't want to miss out on some gadget fun before we check out of here tomorrow morning!

    We decided to walk down to the Port here at Piano di Sorrento (aka Porto Marina Di Cassano). Google said it was a 22 minute walk but Im sure that didn't include the longest switchbacks down the cliff side that we have ever encountered! 

    The scenery was gorgeous and it is so much quieter and more relaxing than the Port of Sorrento. It is still busyling with tourists there! We are so happy that we chose to stay here instead of Sorrento. And when we reached the seashore, we found a wonderful table overlooking the gulf of Naples. It was so quiet until they turned the music on. Since there was only two tables (apparently tourist season is done here now!) ... we got brave enough to ask them to turn it off again. It was such a treat to be away from the clamor of traffic ... the worst of which is the dang motorbikes! We were happy to here only the seagulls!

    We started off with another local white wine. It's my turn to say "it's the best ever" white wine I've had. It's better than those in Spain ... which I thought were amazing. I ordered the ravioli Caprese and the old boy started with anchovies. They were "good" but not the best ever. Then he had the octopus ... which was caught this morning. He declared that truly was "the best ever." It said it was as tender as butter and he claimed it was even "better than lobster." He offered me a bite but ... I was not even curious enough to taste it!  And, when we looked it up on Trip Advisor, we discovered the seaside restaurant was rated #1 in the area! It was a great place to languish over a very lovely lunch! 

    Oh ... we discovered 'why' they serve water with the coffee. It is to clear the palate and makes the coffee taste better. Apparently it is only a custom of Southern Italy. It is not done north of Rome. 

    Did I share how hot and sunny it is here? It is only 22°C but it feels like 27°! I am now wishing I had packed more than one skort and far fewer long leggings!! The old boy is gloating a bit because he only packed two pair of pants. The rest are shorts. By the looks of what we packed in our suitcases, you'd think we were headed for different destinations! 🥴  In all honesty though, I'm hoping he gets to be right in terms of the weather yet to come!

    We made the hike back up the switchbacks and, thankfully, it wasn't as bad as I expected! Most of the stores and restaurants close from 3:00pm to 7:00pm (ish) ... so ... we headed home to rest ourselves. We don't have quite as much energy as we did during our big day yesterday!

    Hopefully we can catch a sunset tonight and get to bed early! We are checkingbout in the morning and travelling by train to Naples. Our first walking tour begins tomorrow at 4:00pm!

    Opefully I'll chat with you again before we go to bed!

    Hugs from Italy,
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
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  • A good start & end - but the middle 🥴

    October 2, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    The last two days have been so long and jam packed that I have been too tired to blog at the end of them. I'll try to catch up, but am not sure hoe successful I will be at it.

    We had a great start to our day of commuting to Naples! We enjoyed our last cappuccino at our local cafe and then wheeled our bags to the train station in Piano di Sorrento.

    We were, once again, riding the local commuter train and could have taken the "Express" train but it cost $15EUR/person. It didn't arrive any earlier than the regular train, but they assigned seats. We opted to spend $4.60 each, instead, thinking that there would be ample room on the train at 10:00am in the morning.

    We were so wrong! We had to squeeze ourselves into the "handicapped" space at the back of the train. There were two large dogs with two guys sitting on the floor. One woman was synchrd in tight with all the wheelchair harnesses around her and her bags to hold them stationary! It looked hilarious. She was so tied in that she couldn't even get out once the seats opened up. 🤣

    All I can tell you is that it required more core strength than I had to stay erect during the swaying of the train and all the starts and stops. I didn't dare step bacl lest I hit the dog ... which I was warned, would bite me.

    Thankfully, about 30 minutes into our 75 minute ride, oodles of seats opened up when people got off at the Pompeii stop.

    We were seated comfortably after that, but at one point, I had to take a picture of a woman seated on top of her bags

    We talked about walking from the Napoli station to the hotel because it is only 3kms, but the cobblestone can be unforgiving. They do provide some suitcase trails along the main streets in Piano di Sorrento, but we weren't certain about the walking directions and conditions here in Naples.

    So, given that Uber only operates in some of the biggest cities in Italy, we opted to get a taxi to eliminate all the walking to the hotel. It sounded like a solid idea, however, our cab driver quoted us $40 ... which seemed steep to me. My Rome2Rio app on my phone said it should have been about $20, but I didn't feel like haggling with him. Once we got in the car, he said "cash". I realized then that he wasn't even going to turn the meter on!!! Yikes. At that moment, I knew we had become the quintessential "naive tourists" that he was going to chuckle about stiffing over supper tonight!

    But wait ... it gets even worse. He drove us for 10 minutes and then dropped us off in a square near the old town. He said we had to walk ... just "up there" because it was pedestrian traffic only from that point.
    It turned into a 30 minute walk through the maze of the old town of Napoli.

    At one point, the cobblestone grabbed my suitcase right out from under me and fell flat on the road. Fortunately, I stayed vertical. We put the address into google maps and it should have been 350meters to the hotel. Google was cutting in and out because of the narrrow lanes and buildings and we ended up being rerouted a few times! I stopped and asked for help twice. We were both so fuming mad by the time we found our way to the garage door entrance to the hotel. As I write this, I'm still not sure if we arrived at the main door or the car parkade at the back of the hotel??? Wait NOW ... I might be a naive tourist, but if this hotel has a parkade ... you can absolutely, totally and without a doubt DRIVE straight to it!! 😠

    It's a really lovely old hotel with oodles of character ... and ... as we are sipping some wine and enjoying a charcuterie board on our little deck, we are back to enjoying Italy. That is, until I made the mistake of checking if Uber was available in Naples. It turns out it IS! Guess how much??? $12 to $18EUR. I wasn't instantly annoyed again. It took quite a few sips of this amazing local wine before I was ready to forgive the cab driver. It's one thing to more than double the fare ... it's another insult to not even drop us where we asked to be taken!

    Fortunately, our room was ready by 1:00pm. It's a good thing we had extra time to cool off (metaphorically and literally!) before meeting our group at 4pm to start the tour! We ordered some wine and cheese and had some time to sit our little deck overlooking the pool. We even figured out how to work the air conditioning ... I think! 🤞

    One of the best parts of being here, now, is that I get to hang up my role as tour guide for a while. I am looking forward to someone else guiding the way for the next six days!! I seriously hoping that the weather forecast for rain will be WRONG. It is clouding over as I write .... so ... who knows??

    We dawned our trusty walking shoes and met our fellow 'walkers' at 4pm in the lobby. We've got a great group ... several people from South Africa, one from Zimbabwe, two couples from the US (one Florida and one California), one couple that live in both Whistler, Canada and South of San Francisco.

    We enjoyed getting to know them over a short walk through the old city of Nsples and then over dinner. We were treated to three different kinds of pizza ... we learned the tradional Margherita was named after the queen back then.

    It was a great day, all in all ... and ... I felt like we we were off to a great start with our walking tour! We tucked into bed about 11:pm.
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  • Pompei and Vesuvius

    October 3, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    After a great breakfast, we toured Pompei this morning. It was staggering to think that the entire city of Pompei was buried in the eruption of Vesuvius! The parts of the civilization tgat survived were so impressive! It was so great to have a tour guide explaining all the things we were seeing and experiencing.

    After a grest lunch ... this fine group of people hiked almost a kilometer up to the volcano ... in the rain. Our tour guide was exceptionally passionate but his pace was a bit fast for the old boy and I. Sadly, I didn't have time to look around much because I had to keep my eye on my foot placement.

    We traced the side of the volcano for a bit! I thought we were going to descend tge same way we walked up. However, they decided to take us a faster and more direct way down. The guide got tge keys to a path that they closed for the last 7 years. We were tge first ones to sink down to our ankles in volcanic stone as we "surfed" down the mountain trying to stay erect! 😬

    My shoes were filled with lava stones and my heart was filled with terror! As you all know ... I do not enjoy adrenalin filled adventures like this. I was just grateful to get to the bottom safely!!

    We got tonour room and had a shower ... my ankles were black from the trek down! We enjoyed drinks together and shared many laughs during supper.

    We stayed up way too late ... but ... it was an emotionally exciting and explosive way to spend our first full day of walking ... hiking ... surfing! I think we got 5 hours of sleep before we were up and at it again. Hence my delay in posting this!

    More to come ... eventually ...
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
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  • A Walk DOWN to the Sea

    October 4, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    The day started early ... again ... but included some wonderful experiences for us. Our first stop after breakfast was the Benedictine Abbey of Cava ... which dates back to 1011AD. There are still six monks who live there and when we arrived, we were greeted by a Gregorian chant that they were doing to start their day. The chanting had such a mystical energy to it. We didn't hear the massive organ, but apparently it has 3000 pipes. It took up a whole wall! We also learned that the monks jobs are to work and pray. The monastery is enormous ... so ... there will be no shortage of work to keep it up.

    Walking through all the rooms of the monastery was moving in some mysterious ways. You could not help but wonder about all the people whose lives have been guided by their strong Roman Catholic beliefs. Apparently the southern part of Italy holds the strongest connection to religion. And, it is also a place of great superstition!

    We headed out from the Monastery into the forested area and walked amongst the lemon trees and chestnut trees. We learned how valuable the chestnut trees are to the locals. They grow tall and straight and, because of that, are very useful in constructing the pergolas that line the limestone cliffs of the Amalfi Coast. The grapes are grown on the pergolas and the land underneath is used for other crops or gardens. By suspending the grapes, they double their acreage. They actually plant willow trees at the end of the rows because the small branches are used to tie the vines to the pergola. I actually had one tied around my arm to show us how strong the knot is, but ... how easy it is to untie!

    Side note ... I am ever grateful that I kept that bit of willow because the old boy ended up using it to repair my broken trekking pole. Somehow ... I had a screw loose (hey ... no pun intended!) and lost the clasp that held it in place. We had the guide tie the kind of knot they use here on the Amalfi Coast and I was back in business!

    There are 570 kms of trails in the Amalfi Coast! We took just one! I would have loved to capture more pictures and keep my head up to take in all the picturesque views ... but the path is very rocky and uneven. I didn't want to risk injury. So, for now, I will take home a few pictures and most of the journey will be held in my heart!

    I was a bit worried about whether or not I would enjoy lunch today. I knew it was going to be a spaghetti made with anchovy oil. I don't care for anchovies, but I swear ....... THAT spaghetti was the very best pasta I have eaten since we arrived in Italy. Maybe the best pasta I have EVER tasted anywhere! I savored EVERY SINGLE bite!!

    After that, we headed to another church where we were taught how to paint our own ceramic tiles! Ceramics are a hallmark of the Amalfi coast! It was a bit daunting to start with, but they will fire them and glaze them and they will deliver them to us on our last day of the tour! I am eager to see how they turned out!

    We then walked down to our hotel ............. way down!! The itinerary said we would be walking 5kms today, but my phone indicated that we actually logged 11kms. Down hill is hard on the knees, so my injury started to act up a bit. I am grateful that I brought analgesics and anti-inflammatory meds! I expect I will need them soon.

    We enjoyed another lovely supper and stayed up way, way, way too late again. We have such a fantastic group that its hard to leave the fun and head to bed!!!!

    Hugs to one and all,
    ❤️k&j❤️
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  • Moving on to Minori!

    October 5, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    It was raining a bit today when we started our journey! We were headed to Tremonti to visit an authentic farming space! Isadora is a totally self-sufficient farmer ... and ... he even brews his own wine! He is also a musician!

    We were supposed to have a 40 minute visit but it turned into almost two hours. It was so enjoyable to learn about the way he lives his life! He is not married, but has a sparkle in his eye. And, he was clearly enjoying the opportunity to connect with all of us! Our guide was trying to translate, but Isadora's enthusiasm was hard to keep up with.

    We learned that the pagodas are made from chestnut trees (because they are strong and grow straight and tall as we stated before) and allow the land to be worked ... above and below.

    We entered into the maze of narrow streets of the town, only to learn that these mazes were intentional! They allowed people protection from the pirates! The "ladies of the night' would lure the pirates in ... would run ahead ... and then the pirates either got lost in the maze or went through the tunnel that dropped steel gates that trapped them and then they poured boiling oil over them!!!!

    Eeeeegads! Can you just imagine the life of those who lived here before us?? We think we have a hard challenge or two every once in a while!

    We were so very grateful to have the path lead us to lunch at our guides Mom and Dad's house. They prepared the most magnificent lunch for us! We started with their homemade Limoncello spritz. I am not usually one for a spritz because I do not like carbonation ... but ... THIS was so delicious! I learned that the secret ingredient was their lemon marmalade!

    We also enjoyed little balls of eggplant that were so scrumptious and a variety of other delights that will remain on the top of the list of the food we have enjoyed here along the Amalfi Coast!

    There is so much more to say ... but ... the words just can't do it all justice, so I will sign off for now. All I can say is that 'Walk About Italy' offers you an experience like no other!

    We winded our way on foot back to the hotel ... we ended up having an exceptional experience (emotionally, physically and spiritually!).

    Bye for now ...
    ❤️k&j ❤️
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  • The Riches of Ravello!

    October 6, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    The owner of 'Walk About Italy' has a PhD in geology and shared a little bit about why all the Limestone cliffs have do many nutrients to grow all the grapes and gardens. The cliffs are covered with greenery!   Apparently it has to with the calcium carbonate! I won't go into any more of the science of it, but it was interesting!!

    We walked to Ravello which is 400 meters above the sea levels and was home to the richest of families of Amalfi. We visited the beautiful garden called "The Gardens of Villa Cimbrone" with a view over the sea from the "infinity terrace".

    We enjoyed a fabulous lunch and then descended directly down the 1320 concrete/rock steps of the cliffside to the seaside town of Minori. While in many ways it seems easier to go 'down' than 'up' ... I just have to share that these steps are made of uneven stones and some of them are wide and some of them are deep ... and none of them are flat ... so there is no way to find an even gait! I was terrified I was going to roll an ankle if I didn't keep my eyes pasted to the path! The knees take such a kicking ... even with top of the line hiking shoes!!! I found myself wondering what on earth the locals wore on these rough stone staircases and pathways!

    After a short stop at the hotel to freshen up, we took the ferry to Amalfi for dinner! And, it was there that I had the most unusual surprise. They served an appetizer of an anchovies. I really don't enjoy them. The old boy has invited me to taste them ... over and over again ... because he always claims "they are the best ever". However, much to my disappointment, they never are.

    None of these ones are fried ... they were more like ceviche ... cured in lemon juice!! I would never have believed the old boy's urging that these did not taste fishy ...but ... one of fellow walkers does not enjoy them either and suggested that I try them. OMG ... they were absolutely delicious!! That is twice now that anchovies have surprised me on this trip!!

    After dinner, I was so grateful that the bus was taking us back hotel. By the end of the day, we had logged 18,402 foot steps.

    It's been both a blessing and a challenge to place one foot in front of the other as we make our way around the Amalfi Coast. I am so glad we have embarked on this walking journey while we can still do it. There is something so unique and special about seeing your surroundings on foot! I am also ever grateful that we have avoided the touristy crowds with this exceptional itinerary!

    I chat again with you all soon,
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
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  • Our Last Day with this Glorious Group

    October 7, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Last day of walking. We walked through the little town of Scala and arrived at a little church. The owner of 'Walk About Italy' has joined us and treated us to a magical concert with his flute. I have enclosed a short snippet of it but he played for over four minutes. I closed my eyes as the sounds reverberated through our hearts as we all allowed his music to touch us in such a deep way. It was quite the moment!

    After that, we hiked a long way overlooking Amalfi until we arrived at the most magnificent waterfalls. It was an arduous hike in some ways and I was grateful for my walking sticks. It must be a very popular path because we passed several groups of hikers! It was a very challenging walk for me because it was very humid and although the air temperature was only 21° ... the sun was hot. It felt more like 27°. I was more red-faced than I have been on any hike yet ... and ... my freshly washed hair was wet up to my ears as sweat collected on my neck. The scenery was so rewarding though ... I remain grateful I persisted through my fatigue!!

    We had a lovely lunch! We have not had a bad meal yet. And then, we hiked another 1008 stairs down to the town of Amalfi!! It was so, so, so busy!! We were reminded how fortunate we have been to see so much of the Amalfi Coastline without zigzagging amongst hoards of tourists.

    A short ferry ride back took us back to Minori! We hustled off to do our laundry before dinner! Neither of us have ANY clean clothes left. We have perspired through all of them. Although the forecast was for rain this past week, we have been treated to days of sunshine!

    We will only have one travel day between our "Amalfi Coast Wonders" tour and "Off the Beaten Path of Cinque Terra." Fortunately, there was a laundromat right by the hotel in Minori. $5 EUR for a wash and $3 for a dry ... and a quick shower in between! We could have used the hotel valet laundry but it would have cost us the same amount to do one shirt!

    Everything was going well until the old boy realized his back pack was not in the room. Panic set in when we realized he had forgotten it somewhere. 🥺

    We hoped it was NOT left on the ferry ... and ... prayed that it was in laundromat! I was trying to calm myself down with reminders that there is no problem so great that it can't be solved with a pocket full of money. I'm so happy to report it didn't cost us a dime ... he found it right where he set it down in the laundromat! Whew!!!

    Our last supper together was enjoyed after another 208 steps up the hill. It was the only disappointing meal we had during our entire tour of Amalfi! Despite a fes raised eyebrows as tasted the first course, we all made the best of it with grace and gratitude because we have eaten so well the whole time! A little less food was not going to hurt anyone!

    Our ceramic tiles were presented after dinner! Tears and hugs followed as we anticipated the end of our time together and said goodbye to folks who have now become family!

    We have an invitation from one of our new friends to come to Zimbabwe for a vacation!! It's very, very tempting! I've always said I'd love to go back to Africa. Who knows???

    For now ... we must prepare for more hiking in Cinque Terra!!

    Bye for now,
    ❤️k&j❤️
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  • A Wet Welcome to Pisa

    October 8, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Today was a travel day for us with much rain in the forecast!

    Up early and trying to fit everything back into the suitcases! Aside from a couple small purchases ... it seems tighter than before! How does that happen??

    All in all, in our Walk About Italy- The Eonders of Amalfi, we covered 56 kms on foot!  It was more than I bargained for in terms of effort and intensity and time, but also more than we bargained for in terms of awe, wonder and joy!

    And maybe one the best things about this trip was the wonderful connections we made with our fellow walkers. It's truly magical to see how guickly bonds are formed when we do arduous things together! I was ever grateful for the encouragement of "not much further" or "you're doing great" or high -fiving because we "did it". Whether "it" was 1308 uneven rock steps down ... or ... endless hikes to unknown Vista straight uphill.

    After a day of travelling to Pisa via one bus, two trains and a taxi ... we don't even mind the rain. It gives us a chance to snuggle in ... catch up on these blogs ... and ... get to bed early without FOMO on fun with our new friends!

    We meet our new group of fellow walkers tomorrow. Part of me is hoping they are as wonderful as the last group ... and ... part of me is hoping they won't be as much fun, so I can get more sleep I deveoped puffy bags under my eyes fromm all the late nights!! 😉

    We opted to stay the night in Pisa because we missed this destination on our last trip to Italy. With all the rain ... and no end in sight in the forecast ... I'm not sure if we'll see the leaning tower this time either.

    We enjoyed a really good burger with homemade potato chips in the restaurant and then hopped into bed by 8:30pm. We want to be rested for the new journey ahead!

    Hugs from Iyaly,
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
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  • On the Rails Again!

    October 9, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We were excited that we didn't have to set an alarm today! We awoke before 7:00am anyway! 😉 We headed down to breakfast and who should be there?? Well ... a lady and her husband from Quebec were there! It was so crazy because we actually sat and chatted with them outside the garden when we were on our Amalfi tour. They were staying at the same hotel as us. And, it turns out they are coming to Cinque Terra and staying in Levanto too!!

    I always think it is meaningful when people keep crossing paths. I have no idea what meaning I am giving it ... but ... it seems like the Universe is putting us in each other's presence for a reason. If we see each other again while we are in Cinque Terra, I am going to get really curious about it all!!

    The clouds were threatening rain, but after breakfast we dared to walk 20 minutes to see the leaning tower of Pisa! We weren't sure if it would be worth the trek... and ... feared that if we got lost we'd be late for our check out and miss our train to Levanto! However, we are so incredibly glad we took the risk! An audible gasp escaped me when we came around a corner and I spotted the top half of the tower! I have seen pictures of it, but they don't do it justice!

    It came into full view as we arrived at the square!! It is so beautifully maintained! We were so impressed! Actually, we now wish we had given ourselves more than one night in Pisa! It has such beautiful energy about it! Lovely little lanes and a large river running through it. The faces of the buildings are old but they are painted different colors. It reminded us of Denmark!

    We hopped the train from Pisa to Levanto! It was a little hard to tell when to get off ... and ... we had a really long stop at one of the stations. We ended up being 25 minutes late in arrival, but have no idea what was going on.

    We were starving by the time we arrived and scooted across the street to the hotel restaurant! The old boy ordered the rabbit and I had tge ravioli! He contends ... not surprisingly that this dish of rabbit is the best yet! Even better than the one he most enjoyed in Cuba.

    With our bellies full, we met our new group at 4pm. We wandered the small alleys and lanes of Levanto and enjoyed a ferinata. It's made from chick peas and was delicious!

    Then we took a local train to Vernazza. This is a small fishing village that is classified as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. It was so quaint! I fell in love with it immediately!

    We stopped at a little trattoria for dinner and had a chance to get to know folks in our new group. There are 5 folks from Australia, 4 from USA, one couple from South Africa and us.

    We are off to bed early and looking forward to our adventures tomorrow!

    Grateful that we didn't get wet tonight,
    ❤️k&j❤️
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  • It's Supposed to be a Wet One Today!

    October 10, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    We awoke to forecasts of rain for most of the morning. Our itinerary was changed because we were supposed to walk through the vineyards of Riomaggiore and visit the Monastery of Montenero, but apparently the walkways can become very slippery when wet.

    So ... our changes for the rain included a train ride to Corniglia instead. This is one of the five terraces of Cinque Terra (that we were not supposed to visit) but ... the rain changed our plans.

    Corniglia is the only one of the terraces that is not at sea level. We climbed 373 steps to reach the village. It didn't seem too hard though, because these steps are made of flat bricks in the middle of the walkway. They are soooo much easier to navigate than the uneven rocks that lined the paths in Amalfi!

    This might be a good time for me to share that Cinque Terra is a National Park. The five terraces include Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso. We learned that fishing is strictly prohibited between the two capes that bookcase Cinque Terra. The National Park pays for public busses that provide uphill and downhill transportation in each of the villages.

    We enjoyed a visit to Vernazza last night and really had a wonderful morning! The scenery was not just spectacular ... it was entirely magical. One of the things I am really enjoying about this 'Walk About..." is the pace. It is quite different than Amalfi! We are offered more time to take pictures and really soak in the beauty that surrounds us! I'm not sure if the location is what makes the difference ... or... the guides, but we are thoroughly enjoying the pace of the this incredible tour. So far, it is more in keeping with what I expected when I signed up for the two 'Walk About Italy' itineraries.

    We could not have been more pleased than to realize that our change in plans meant we averted a massive downpour of rain. We sauntered through the villages (dry) and I took so many pictures that I drained my battery. I wish I could share them all, but here is a small smattering of them.

    We also really enjoyed a short break between 3 and 5pm to head back to the hotel! It was a chance to digest some of the wonderful moments we experienced this morning! And, we meet again at 5pm to head out for dinner and a short walk. We've already logged 9,367, so I'm not sure how much further we will walk, but it has not felt the least bit grueling. And, the sun has come out!!! I am so happy to go wherever the guides take me!👏👏👏

    We wnded up taking the train the Manarola for dinner. We caught the sunset! I will post the photos separately in another blog!

    See you there,
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
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  • Sunset in Manarola

    October 10, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    As I shared in Part 1 of the blog for today ... we took z train to Manarola for dinner. This Terra e is incredibly popular for sunsets! We were extra fortunate that the recent bad weather fostered a magnificent sunset for us to enjoy!

    Let me bore you with photos from the 40ish minutes that we witnessed the sun decanting behind the ocean! ❤️❤️❤️

    We also enjoyed a very fishy dinner! The old boy was in heaven ... and ... I was pleasantly surprised.

    It was another exceptional day in this incredibly sensational part of the world!

    See you tomorrow for more memory making,
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
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  • It Was Uphill Again Today!!

    October 11, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Today, we set off to Moneglia ... which is the Latin names for "jewels". The jewels are the hills which bring the riches of wine and olives and persimmons and many other delights to mankind!

    This cute little medieval village off the beaten path in Cinque Terra. It's unusual in that the road that runs over the old railway has just two street lights on it. The green light changes only once every 20 minutes ... so ... the locals must plan their travel around the timing of the light change! Isn't that hilarious! Well ... maybe it's not hilarious if you are waiting for the light to change.

    I just cannot get over the way these terraces have become home to many, many people! Our guide, Letizia lives in this charming place. She and her husband own a restaurant high up on the hills. We hiked up and up and up and up and up to get there! It was well worth every deep breath, every calf stretch and every gluteus maximus contraction it took to arrive there! This little 'gem' is also the home to the only sandy beach in the region.

    The view from our table was breathtaking! Leti shared that her father grows olives and that this weekend will be harvest time. It is a grueling task which has been made more difficult by the scarcity of processing mills. There used to be 13 in the area but now, if I heard her correctly, there is only one.

    In order to get Extra Virgin Olive Oil, the olives must be processed within 24 hours of being picked!! I had no idea. It is no wonder that EVOO is so expensive! She shared that if it is pressed more than once, it is usually pressed with chemicals ... so ... regular olive oil is not as healthy as the EVOO.

    We enjoyed the most delicious starter in this restaurant. It was zucchini and onions deep fried in the most light and scrumptious batter I have ever tasted!! After that, Leti's husband demonstrated how they make pesto. It was so interesting because there is no set recipe. Given that the area was very poor, the recipes were simply suggestions that invited you to add things like garlic "If you have".

    I am not an avid pesto fan, but ... once again ... I really enjoyed it after it was added to the trofia pasta!! This particular pasta was only made with flour and water ... but ... "If you have eggs" you could add that too!

    I have now enjoyed anchovies (once) and mussels (once) and pesto (once!). Italy appears to be stretching my palate!! I also got to taste persimmons today! They grow on the trees here in abundance and our chef made the most lovely flambe to go with them and some ice cream ... that I also really enjoyed!!!

    We ended the day early and then hiked all the way down the hill to the train station. We arrived back at the hotel and enjoyed a free afternoon! We very much appreciated the opportunity to do our laundry ... again! We are moving to Rapallo tomorrow and will be there for the last three days of our "Walk About ...".

    Oh ... I should also share that Leti also took us to an Oratory. These buildings are often confused with churches because they look very similar, but it is not a church. It is a group of people who are Catholics, but have come together to do good works ... help the less fortunate, social justice etc. There were many fading frescos on the walls and a painting that was hidden on the ceiling because it was rumored to be very valuable.

    Okay ... I shall say good-bye for now. Hope all is well with all of you at home. Ciao from us ... for now,
    ❤️k&j❤️
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  • Hello Rapallo!

    October 12, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We started the day with a walk from Levanto along the old train line to Bonassola. This charming little fishing village boasts one of the most lovely beaches of the Italian Riviera.

    Along the way, we bumped into some nuns who were on their way to the building we could see way off in the distance at the tip of the cape. We learned that they were on the their way to 'Our Lady of the Cape' ... a little stone chapel that was built in the 1600s.
    Of course, the old boy started flirting with one of them and he learned she was from Africa. When I asked if I could take a photo, she snuggled right in under his shoulder. We chatted briefly with all of them before they scooted off into the distance. They all seemed to be so light-hearted to me. One of the other people on our tour also commented that they seemed so joyful ... quite unlike the nuns that her husband had experienced while in school.

    Little did we know, but that chapel was exactly where we were headed as well. We stopped for a little coffee break and bathroom break. It was only 10:30am ... but ... the old boy was not the least bit interested in any more coffee. He contended that he was ready for a nice white wine and was not to be dissuaded by the good natured shaming that was aimed in his direction. I ended up being grateful that he ordered it, because it came with a delicious plate of appetizers and I was already hungry. 👏👏

    By the time we joined the nuns at the cape ... it was like we were old friends. They welcomed us, with the warmest smiles ... to gather with them in that wee, small space. Their celebration of their joyful spirits was so evident in their songs! I recognized one of the songs, but could not remember the words well enough to sing along. I was simply moved to tears by the experience! ❤️

    We then walked up to the convent and enjoyed the most delicious lunch at Buranco. The view was exceptional as we gazed upon the hillsides lined with olive orchards and vineyards!

    By the time we got back to Rapallo we had logged 14,451 steps (about 10kms). The old boy is really appreciating the knee brace ... and ... I am delighted to share that I haven't needed analgesics nor anti-inflammatories since Amalfi! 👏👏👏👏👏

    After a little time to freshen up, we headed out on foot again for our dinner reservation. We could not believe our eyes when, while enroute, an amazing fireworks erupted right beside us!! I've added a snippet, but I took three videos in total! Theraucous display went on for almost 5 minutes!

    We enjoyed another wonderful meal and, once again, ate far too much. We toddled home later than I would have preferred ... but ... we fell asleep with our hearts as full as our bellies! 🙌

    Hugs to you all,
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
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  • Rain, Rain, Go Away .....

    October 13, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We have lost track of what day it is more than once on this trip! Today was no different! 🥴 As I was trying to orient myself to time and space, I realized it was Canadian Thanksgiving and we would be missing dinner with our family this year!

    Although we are not sitting around the table celebrating with them, we are basking in so much gratitude for this trip and for the good health that allows us to remain so active! We clocked 18,655 yesterday (13.09kms) and logged another 16,000 steps today (10.58kms) and we haven't even had dinner yet!

    While the rain was threatening to dampen our day ... we were super grateful it turned out to be just a couple of light showers! We hopped onto a local bus which took us to Santa Margherita Ligure. This was the start of our hike up to the Valley of the Mills ... where we passed oodles of olive trees. We ended up enjoying a fabulous lunch at the olive/almond mill way! Sorry ... no food pictures! I was hungry by the time we arrived that I just got lost in the moment of savoring every morsel!

    I wish I had taken pictures, however, because the old boy particularly enjoyed the 'lard shavings' on the charcuterie board. Seriously. They were laying aside the salami and the cheese. We even had to ask what it was. He LOVED it.

    After our tummies were full ... we bundled up to protect from the rain shower and headed down the hill to Portofino. I had heard of Portofino, but came to understand it is a very posh little town with high end shops! We walked into one of the shoe stores and the sales person immediately looked to my shoes. I guess she wasn't impressed with my Salomon hikers because she didn't even greet me. I was clearly not of the right class or caliber to have been warmly welcomed to her establishment! We took our exit promptly!😉

    We picked up a Christmas ornament to hang on our tree and enjoyed a lovely glass of wine instead of risking further chagrin! We were clearly out of our element here!! 🤣😂

    We caught the ferry back to Rapallo and will enjoy a nice dinner and evening on our own tonight! It's been so incredible ... but ... I am peopled out and conversation-ed out for today. I will enjoy the silence of being on our own for the evening.

    Tomorrow is our last full day here. In some ways, we can't believe it is already coming to an end, but in other ways, we are ready to go home. We have five nights in Positano on our own, though, before we are flying home.

    So ... I have to wish that the rain will go away again tomorrow. The forecast is not looking good! It is supposed to start raining at midnight tonight and has a 90% chance of raining clear through until Tuesday morning. Yikes!!!

    That said, we've had forecasts for rain that never came true. If we get wet on our last tomorrow ... we will have nothing but gratitude for all the rain we DIDN'T get that was forecast.

    Okay ... so night, night for now! Happy Thanksgiving to all our Canadian loved ones! xoxo
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
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  • Our last day with 'Walk About Italy'

    October 14, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Well ... the forecast is for more rain, but the radar map looks good! 🤞 I'll carry my rain coat ... just in case.

    We took the train to Chivaria. This is a very affluent community. It remains authentic in that there are very few, if any, tourists ... except us! It was such a treat to meander amongst the locals and get a window into their day to day experiences.

    We stopped at a restaurant for lunch that was recommended by our guide. We arrived right at noon when it opened and got a table. By 1:00pm there was a line up of locals waiting for a seat.

    The menu is posted on a blackboard outside the door. We opted to have the farinata, the vegetables and the minestrone soup! It was absolutely delicious!

    Oh ... when we were in Spain, I discovered an eyebrow pencil that I loved from KIKO of Milan. I bought one ... for $16.99Eur. Once I knew I really liked it, I looked online to order more, but they were $30! I found a Kiko in the Naples train station. The pencils were $13.99Eur there. So I bought six. Then, I got to thinking that my life expectancy might be more than six eye brow pencils worth, so when I saw a Kiko here in Chivaria, we went in. Only $9.99Eur here!! I bought six more! 🙌

    After our delightful lunch, we were in search of an espresso and a dessert. The old boy had "the baba of all babas" ... i.e. the best ever! 😉

    We also learned that espresso has less caffeine than a drip coffee because the water is only on the coffee for such a short while! We also learned that it is be drank in two sips! Who knew???? Oh, and it's a cardinal sin to drink Cappucino after 11:00am. I might have mentioned this before, but it's such a faux pas that it bears repeating! 🤣

    After some free time we met our group for our last walk together. We hopped a bus that took us high us the cliffside to Ruta. From there we walked all the way down to the seaside!

    My eyes enjoyed it, but my knees weren't so fond of that trek. After about an hour of walking, we were invited to use the public toilet on the cliffside ("probably no paper though" because it would be " two hours before the next toilet stop." Thank goodness one of group members had some wipes.

    We finally arrived at a remote little cove where a rubber dingy was parked! My heart skipped a beat becsuse there was no one in sight! It was raining more by then and my thoughts were anxiously racing: "Seriously????? It's been a top notch tour thus far. We can't be heading off into the Liguerian Sea during a rainstorm in a dingy?????" 

    Before I panicked completely, someone caught sight of a larger rubber ducky speeding  towards us!  It was like a scene out of 'Survivor' when the castaways see a boat slowly coming into view out of the mist/fog over the water!

    Unfortunately, it was so small that it could only take 7 of the 15 of us ... due to the weather. The rest would have to wait until the next run. Fortunately for us, we escaped on the first tour back to civilization! It was wet but added some drama to the day!

    We made up tall tales about our narrow escape from the jellyfish as we sailed the stormy seas to safety! 🤣

    We landed in a gorgeous little seaside village called Camogli! Despite the increasing rain, we explored a little bit before we arrived at 'La Rotonda' for dinner!

    We thoroughly enjoyed our final dinner together and hopped a train home for night. Many hugs were exchanged, along with hospitable invitations for reconnections that were extended "if you ever come our way!"

    All in all, our time walking about Italy 🇮🇹  has been so rich and rewarding. We are tempted to do another tour ... maybe Sicily or Tuscany  or The Lakes in the north.

    I guess time will tell, but ... I could not believe my ears when the old boy  uttered the following:

    "Walking is addicting!"

    I couldn't agree more and am grateful he's got the bug! ❤️

    P.S. It's so funny because the itinerary said that today we would be having a relaxing day. It turned out to be almost 20,000 steps by the time we got back to the hotel!!
    I'll post some pics of our time in Camogli in a second post!
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  • Camogli

    October 14, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    A tiny little seaside town with oodles of character! A fabulous end to a terrific tour! ❤️❤️❤️

  • And ... I'm Tour Guide Again

    October 15, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    With our two "Walk Abouts..." both behind us now, we're off to Positano today! I'm back in the tour guide saddle. Part of me is dreading it already and another part of me is looking forward to the flexibility and no alarm clocks for a few days!

    We enjoyed a nice breakfast and after a few more heartfelt goodbyes, we were headed towards the train station. We had been notified that our train was delayed by 14 minutes, so we thought maybe we'd have time to stop at a couple shops.

    Thankfully, one of our guides was taking the same train and noticed that it was more recently cited to be 'on time' again. Thank goodness we didn't dawdle when we thought we had extra time because we'd have missed our train! 🥴

    Five hours to Rome and then another train to Naples. We indulged ourselves by getting a private transfer from Naples to Positano. Sadly, however, there was a five car pile up on the highway and we ended up taking twice as long to get to Positano than we expected.

    Thank goodness I didn't have to tinkle! It would have made the extra hour exceptionally unbearable.

    It was dark by the time we got to Villa Mary. And, due to the Amalfi terrain, they couldn't drop us at the door. The driver said it was sbout 30 steps up and then straight ahead. We scoffed as we kept walking ... wondering when it would end!

    Some kind fellow was walking his dog and he asked where we were going and carried up one of our bags!!

    The owner of the villa met us in the lane and carried one bag the rest of the way. She brought us a bottle of wine and invited us to take our time and get settled comfortably on our deck before we officially checked in.

    As Taziana shared the map, she recommended we get the shuttle to a restaurant up the hill. We thought we were going to have to miss dinner, but this option worked so well.

    Apparently, this family owned restaurant still has Nonna working in the kitchen. One of the family offers a shuttle because otherwise people wouldn't go all the way up the hill to eat.

    It was hilarious, though, because we didn't, initially, get a table overlooking the cliffside. Once it was available, the shuttle driver was cleaning tables and he then told us to grab our drinks. We had no idea what he was doing. He moved our whole table so we could enjoy the view from the cliffside. Only in Italy ... 😆

    A short shuttle home and wefound ourselves settled into a much softer bed than is typical of our experience in Italy, thus far. The pillows were also so good. We had such a wonderful sleep!

    We are looking so forward to seeing what our time here will look like! I made the mistake of looking at the forecast. I am hoping that we will be lucky again and not get as wet as currently predicted!!

    Hugs to all,
    ❤️ k&j ❤️

    P.S. Less than 5000 steps logged today!! The 'walkabout' is clearly over ... 😉
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  • Happy 71st Birthday to the Old Boy!!

    October 16, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We enjoyed a really relaxed morning! Our breakfast was delivered to our balcony at 9:00am! It was an incredible spread!! 😍

    We went exploring and headed down towards the beach. I was afraid we might get lost in the maze of lanes, but the paths were well marked!

    It was so incredibly busy down by the water. We wandered around a bit. We thought we might have a glass of wine at the Ocean Bar. We were warned that they would add 20% to the total for "service". We thought it might be worth it until we saw the price of wine. No glasses ... just bottles. $120. No. No. No.

    We opted to escape the tourist mayhem and headed back up the cliffside to our place. We stopped at the 'Mini Market' and got two sandwiches (made to order) ... a couple of bottles of wine, a bottle of water and some pasta to take home. We spent less than $38EUR.

    Our economical lunch was so very much enjoyed in the stillness on our deck! It was hot, though, so we headed down to sit by the pool and relax some more. There was a lovely young couple from Toronto at the pool. They were so fun to chat with!

    We made a reservation for a birthday supper tonight. We went to IL Ritrovo and there is another shuttle to take us there! The food was delicious! They gave the old boy a bib ... not because of his age but because he ordered the lobster! We also enjoyed some eggplant parmigiano and some ravioli! It was sll wonderful. Oh ... and a very generous pour of the house white wine! 🥂

    We thoroughly enjoyed the evening and had a great tour of Positano on the ride home because we were the last patrons to be dropped off in our car load! And, now, we are most happy to tuck into bed. In fact, as I write this ... the old boy is already snoozing! 😴😴

    Beuno Sera,
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
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  • Footloose and Fancy Free!

    October 17, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We are delighted to be facing this day with NO itinerary whatsoever. Other than breakfast being delivered at 9:00am to our balcony ... we have no time frames to meet. While we thoroughly sppreciated our 'Walk About Italy' tour guides doing all the organizing, it feels so liberating to simply let our hearts lead the way and allow the day unfold before us

    We had considered taking a ferry to Capri today, but neither of us were up for the crowds. We could still go tomorrow ... if the weather holds up and our inclination increases enough to set an alarm. For now, though, we are thinking we'll have a leisurely day!

    I noticed our Villa serves a spagetti lunch by the pool. The one with cherry tomatoes sounds good, but they offer one with lemon cream!! Spagetti with lemon cream?? Would it be sour, sweet or savory? I'm very curious to try it! Well, actually, I will probably play it safe and order the one with cherry tomatoes, but the old boy will be sure to try something new and go with the lemon cream.

    We ordered a second cappuccino and as we sipped it, I continued to marvel at the way the traffic flows on these one lane roadways. Somehow, the busses, cars, scooters, bicycles and pedestrians share the space so cooperatively! There is no honking nor middle-fingering when things get snarled up. As our driver said... "none of that makes the road wider." Someone needs remind all of us North American drivers about that non-negotiable reality! 🥴

    We headed down to the pool and enjoyed playing some clever! We've had these games with us for 20 days and haven't yet had a moment to play! The old boy kept reveling in how much he was enjoying his wins in such aesthetically beautiful surroundings! 😉

    We ordered the lemon cream pasta and it was so good!! What a treat not to have to leave this little piece of heaven to get our lunch.

    We hadn't done a darn thing all day but relax ... and so ... it made no sense that we felt so tired! We set the alarm and dozed on the chaisse lounges for 15 minutes in the filtered sunshine. Could it get any better??

    Then we got in gear and headed down to the mini market. Some very juicy looking cherry tomatoes had caught our eyes yesterday! We opted to get those and some olives and eat the last of the sandwiches 🥪 we picked up yesterday for dinner on our balcony tonight.

    Out intentions were solid, but by the time the old boy ordered some meat, some cheese, some limoncello and, and, and ... the bill was $81EUR!! Good grief ... we could have eaten out for that price! Looks like we'll be eating in until we check out on Sunday! 🤣

    We played Clever until I finally won a game. Whew! We enjoyed our balcony feast ... and ... just as we were headed to bed the bells started ringing. One church appears to be one full minute behind the other church. The bells ringing in both towers ... very rapidly ... for 60 seconds each. This has happened several times today. Any of you Roman Catholics know what that means? We are entirely clueless. 🤷‍♀️

    I'm going to take it as a signal that its time for children and elderly people to go to bed. I shall heed the call. Yes. I know. It's only 8:00pm, but I do love to tuck in early! 🙃😉🙃

    Wishing everyone at home a grest day!
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
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  • Another Lazy Day in Positano Paradise!

    October 18, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    The skies were overcast and cloudy as we opened our peepers this morning. I still cannot fathom how lazy we are feeling?? Perhaps all the adrenalin of walking over the past two weeks has finally left our systems? Who knows ... but ... its glorious to simply slow down and rest.

    The forecast for rain all day has confirmed that we will not get to the island of Capri on this trip. All I can say is that it's a darn good thing that we didn't venture all the way down to the sea to catch the 9:00am ferry because the rain started pouring down about 8:45am!! There is no way an umbrella, rain coat or poncho would keep a person dry in that kind of downpour!

    With the countless similar forecasts during our walk abouts, we were so darn lucky a downpour like this didn't happen until now.  In fact, I'm ever so grateful we made it 21 days without more than a few showers.

    The ferocity of it makes me think about the sailors and fishermen who get caught on the sea in something like this. Eeeeeek. The force of Mother Nature is nothing to scoff at!

    It was also so loud!! Our breakfast service was due just as things were letting up, but the balcony was wet, so I had no idea where they plan to serve us breakfast??

    Fortnstely, there was a short break in rain so we got to dry things off and eat outside afterall. As it started up again, we just retreated towards our door. We thought we might have to pull the whole table inside,

    So ... we had nothing on our schedule today ... except that the old boy wants to go shopping. He spied a ceramic olive oil bottle in one of the shops we popped into when we went down to the beach a couple days ago.

    I talked him out of buying it at the time because it cost $55 EUR (plus .48/dollar exchange) and we already have a perfectly well functioning olive oil bottle! Also, the stress of keeping said pricey and precious bottle from breaking enroute home did not appeal to me. I rest my case. My defense was solid ... right?!?

    Nope. His heart felt differently than my head. He mentioned that he has regretted not getting it so, we'll be headed back to get him one today! Let's call this indulgence a nice belated birthday gift! 😘

    So, as soon as the rain subsided, a bit, we dared to go out for lunch and then to find the optimal olive oil bottle.

    We just made it to the restaurant when another torrential downpour hit. We opted to eat very slowly and wait it out before our shopping.

    My heart skipped a beat when I saw lemon chicken and baked potatoes on tge menu. The old boy was equally delighted to order tge squid with veggies. Although the pasta is wonderful ... I find a lack of protein and veggies in the Italian diet.

    This lunch was a perfect choice for us. Turned out that the squid was the most delectable and tender that the old boy has ever had! I know he says that about everything, but I can confirm that it was the best I've ever tasted ... and ... I don't care much for squid.

    It also turned out that baked potatoes look just like McCain's frozen french fries! I traded my fries for his veggies! We were both happy, happy,happy! 😋

    We headed down the street to one of the many ceramic shops here. And, after some serious deliberation, the old boy finally picked out a nice ceramic olive oil bottle. I would have included a photo but big signs prohibiting photos were pasted all over the shop. It's all wrapped up for travel now, so I don't want to unpack it. If you'd like to see it, you'll have to come for dinner. 😊

    I was grateful for the umbrella and raincoat on the trek back. The old boy opted to just get wet. To each their own.🤷‍♀️

    It seems to have settled down some now and so we've been back out on the balcony breathing in the scent of fresh rain and playing games. Not to brag, but I'm on a winning streak with the games!
    👍👍👍

    I think its safe to say we're settled in nicely for the evening now. We'll pull out our sandwich fixings for dinner and plan to snuggle into bed early again.. The bed here has a sponge waffle thing on it so it's far less hard than the other beds we've been on while in Italy. 👏👏

    The thunder is rolling again and it's supposed to rain heavily throughout the night and all day tomorrow! We are fine with that, though, because we have a ceramics class in the morning and I have a massage in the afternoon!

    We are wishing Sherisse an exceptional birthday today and were delighted we got a chance to sing her the birthday song on What's App! Technology is so wonderful in moments like this!!
    🥳🎊🎁💞

    Sending warm hugs across the pond,
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
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  • And the Thunder Rolls!

    October 19, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Another full day of rain is forecast for today. We awoke to gloomy skies and the persistent sound of thunder. Fortunately, our deck has stayed dry since yesterday afternoon. Hopefully it will continue to be a place of refuge for us to eat, rest and play games.

    That said ... its colder today than it has been in the three weeks since we arrived in Italy. Looks like I'll have a chance to wear some of the warmer attire that has simply been taking up space in my suitcase. 🥴

    I wasn't surprised when the internet went down again this morning, but I got a bit more concerned about the quality of our day when the power went out at 8:40am. The hillside was dark except for a couple of places!

    We hadn't even had a cup of coffee ... never mind breakfast. Do they have a generator? Do they cook with gas? Will our breakfast be late? How long will it be before our phones die? Will our ceramics class be cancelled if the power doesn't come back on? These are the wild and worrisome workings of my anxious mind!! The old boy is just relaxing ... trusting it will all be fine! Gah!!! 😵‍💫

    Breakfast arrived, just a wee bit late. The power came back on but continued to flicker. If it hadn't been for the rain, we probably would not have booked the ceramics class because we already did some ceramics with Walk About Italy.

    The old boy clearly wasn't fussy about it ... but he was a good sport and tagged along despite thinking it would be the same as the ceramic tile we made in Amalfi!

    However ... we were pleasantly surprised on all counts! The power was on and we started with a block of clay. The teachers were Claudia and her 27 year old son Armando. We had so much fun!! I decided to make two little bowls and the old boy made a tray! We crossed our fingers that the power would stay on because we were in a little room with no windows.

    We let our creative flow as generously as the rain ... and .. the old boy had a complete turn of heart. He was having so much fun creating. It turns out that he is quite particular about his artistry. He is still thanking me for 'forcing' him to participate! 😉

    When we were complete, Armando took one photo of us with his mom ... and just at that moment ... the power went out!!The timing of the power outage could not have been more perfect for us! 😘

    Armando and his mom will fire and glaze our creations and then ship them to us! We are eager to see the finished products once we receive them!!

    After our fun morning, we headed back down the lane to our room for lunch! Although I was lamenting the $86 Eur the old boy spent at the Mini mart for cold cuts, olives, cherry tomatoes and cheese .. I've been ever so grateful for it all because we haven't had to go out in the incessant rain more than once for food! 🙌

    The only thing we were lacking was some wine to go with our leftovers. We opted to risk paying more pay per bottle at our Villa rather than heading out in the rain to get one.

    We were deeply grateful when the owners gave us a complimentary bottle of wine ... offering it as an apology for the weather! Gosh!! Who does that?? We've had such great service from Villa Mary! If you are ever in Positano, we highly recommend it! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

    I was supposed to have a massage today at 3:00pm but the masseuse was coming from Sorrento by scooter. With all the rain, my massage was cancelled. It's okay though. The old boy needed a chance to redeem himself with the games! He had a rough day with many losses yesterday. 🤣

    Tonight we are going back to Il Ritrovo for our last dinner here in Positano. Tomorrow we are off to Rome by train and will spend the night near the airport.

    Bye for now
    ❤️ k&j ❤️
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  • Rome-ward Bound!

    October 20, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We had to set an alarm today for the first day in five days. Our time here in Positano has been so relaxed and leisurely. It was the perfect topping to a very rich and rewarding trip. We keep saying, "Our hearts are full!"

    We had a great ride from Positano to Naples. It was the younger brother of our driver who brought us from Naples to Positano! He was 2w and full of enthusiasm for all the decades ahead of him. It was such a joy to witness his spirit so alive and eager to enjoy life! 🙌

    Our train to Rome was perfectly uneventful. Our train from Rome train station to Rome Airport was equally uneventful. And our shuttle from airport to hotel was quite uneventful too. All in all a nice travel day. No mountains to climb ( physically, mentally or emotionally) and no drama to contend with either.

    Part of me keeps waiting for the next shoe to drop. Another part of me is just enjoying the lack of stress. 👍

    As I write this, we're checked into our room and into our flight! We just need to decide if we are heading out to eat a proper meal here in Rome or if we'll just nibble on the things I brought with us from Positano. I'm not sure where we'll land ... but ... I'll see you all in the morning!

    The last leg of our journey is upon us! And, as much as we loved, loved, loved this trip, we are really looking forward to being home. We have missed seeing the Autumn colors. Everything here stays ever so green. It's beautiful... but ... I love the plays of color we get at home during the Autumn season. 🍂🍁

    Night, Night from Italy,
    ❤️ k&j ❤️

    P.S. I bought 6 more Kiko eyebrow pencils at the Naples train station! I am bringing home 18 of them. I'm banking on some longevity!! 😄

    P.P.S. We opted to snack on the goodies I brought along and see if we could get a glass of wine from the hotel. All they had was Prosecco, so I made a cup of tea instead.

    Then, low and behold, a light rap at the door and the owner/shuttle driver arrived with a silver tray laden with a bottle of wine, some chips and some olives! 😍

    There are so many kind, wonderful people in the world! ❤️
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