The big one

A 255-day adventure by Katarina Read more

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Day 73
Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 10:14 AM
⛅ 22 °C
Altitude: 211 m
Chile Arroyo Burgos -46.53823, -71.7283546°32’18” S 71°43’42” W
Leaving Chile Chico
January 20, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
After couple of days on and off on Chile Chico and another sleepless night in the camp because of the Israeli group, we are ready to leave. This part of the route is very popular with hitchhikers but we didn't brave the hot weather and the wait. We have chosen more pleasant option with the Martin Pescador transport. The route should be really scenic and the weather is perfect.Read more
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Day 73
Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 10:30 AM
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 223 m
Chile Puerto Rio Tranquilo -46.62731, -72.6756146°37’38” S 72°40’32” W
Chile Chico -> Puerto Rio Tranquilo
January 20, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Definitely the most scenic part of our hour at so far. We were really glad that we have chosen more expensive way of transport. The views were absolutely breathtakingly beautiful and our driver stopped few times for us to take more pictures. The journey took over 4 hours even though it's only 186 km.Read more
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Day 73
Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 4:30 PM
⛅ 4 °C
Altitude: 223 m
Chile Puerto Rio Tranquilo -46.62731, -72.6756146°37’38” S 72°40’32” W
Puerto Rio Tranquilo
January 20, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C
After 4 hour scenic journey from Chile Chico we have finally arrived to Puerto Rio Tranquilo. Little village directly on the lake General Carrera is connected via Caretera Austral with Puerto Montt. This place is known as gate to the marble caves that have been formed by wind and water. The beach was full of shops the offer the tours on the boat. It does not have an ATM and we started running low on cash. Fortunately we will have just enough for the camp, bus and the tour. We have spent the first evening after the arrival drinking on the beach and enjoying sunshine. The weather is great and it finally feels like holiday. Next stop is Coyhaique.Read more
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Day 74
Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 10:10 AM
☀️ 23 °C
Altitude: 204 m
Chile Puerto Rio Tranquilo -46.62305, -72.6637546°37’23” S 72°39’50” W
Trip to the marbel cave
January 21, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
The best trip so far!
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Day 74
Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 10:45 AM
⛅ 27 °C
Altitude: 207 m
Chile Chile Chico -46.64778, -72.6080346°38’52” S 72°36’29” W
Capillas de Marmol
January 21, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
The best 10 000 CLP we have spent so far on our trip. I have been looking forward to this on for so long. Definitely top of my list of things to do in South America. I think it exceeded both our expectations. The weather was fantastic and as we have done the tour in the morning, the light was just perfect.Read more
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Day 76
Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 1:58 PM
☀️ 14 °C
Altitude: 286 m
Chile Coihaique -45.56963, -72.0699345°34’11” S 72°4’12” W
Lunch at the Casino Bomberos
January 23, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
We have found the place wondering around and looking to by bus tickets. I have seen this place on TripAdvisor as the best restaurant in Coyhaique. Ots part of the fire station and it helps out to finance the station. As it was lunch time, we gave it a shot. The place is primarily for locals and we were lucky enough to grab a table. We have chosen a lunch menu for 6 500 CLP and Petr tried a local crafts beer. For strater was a super delicious beef broth wit chunks of meat, rice, coriander and spring onion. For main was kind of mix of potatoes, vegetables and onion with fried egg on the top. It wasn't as good as the soup but still very nice and huge. For dessert we had a bowl of a watermelon that was nice light finish to a very nice meal. The restaurant was full the entire time and the ladies who worked there were very efficient. It was a great option for a lunch.Read more
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Day 77
Wednesday, January 24, 2018 at 11:15 AM
☀️ 10 °C
Altitude: 628 m
Chile Laguna verde -45.53625, -72.0191145°32’11” S 72°1’9” W
Reserva Nacional Coyhaique
January 24, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C
The reserve is located 3 km from the boarder of the town. As for most of them in Chile and Argentina, there was no public transport so we hiked it quite uphill. The fee is CLP 3 000 that we not really willingly paid. We still don't get why should we pay for walk in a forest. As we have arrived quite late, we chose the shorter circuit around the 4 lagoons. It was a nice walk and for our surprise, there was so much bamboo everywhere. All in all it was ok way to spend an extra day in Coyhaique.Read more
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Day 78
Thursday, January 25, 2018 at 9:10 AM
☀️ 11 °C
Altitude: 216 m
Chile Coihaique -45.57675, -72.0788245°34’36” S 72°4’44” W
Coyhaique
January 25, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C
From Puerto Rio Tranquilo this had to be our be next stop. We weren't sure how long we will stay as we needed to figure out a way to get to Puerto Montt. We arrived quite late and walked to the camp El Camping next to the river. On the gate was sign there is no more free spaces but we had to try to ask as oh other option would be go back to town by a very steep hill. Thankfully they found us a spot and this camp became our home for quote a bit at the end.
The town itself is quite big and we came across our favorite Unimarc for shopping and nice pentagon square where at nice weather lots of people hang around and chill.Read more
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Day 80
Saturday, January 27, 2018 at 1:17 PM
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: Sea level
Chile Port Montt -41.47643, -72.9478541°28’35” S 72°56’52” W
Puerto Montt
January 27, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
After 23 hrs on the bus and long wait at 2 boarder crossing, we have arrived to Puerto Montt. One of the biggest town's in the area and therefore not one of the prettiest ones. We are staying it one night before we head towards Cochamo Valley where we have booked couple of nights in the campsite. Today we just need to get some shopping done and first thing in the morning we are heading further.Read more
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Day 81
Sunday, January 28, 2018 at 7:45 AM
🌙 -10 °C
Altitude: 11 m
Chile Río del Este -41.38025, -72.2863741°22’49” S 72°17’11” W
Puerto Montt -> Cochamo Valley
January 28, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 -10 °C
We didn't get to enjoy much off a sleep in today as our bus was leaving early in the morning. We grabbed a colectivo for the first time and for CLP 1000 we were in bus station in 5 minutes. We have enjoyed a lovely sunrise and got on with our journey.
The Lake District is covered with volcanos from which couple of them are still active. On the road we could see snow capped Osorno and very recently active Chalbuco.
Once we have arrived we got quick ride to get closer to the camp and we set to hike the last 13 km.
The forest here is much different to those back at home. Some of the ferns were over 2 m high and it all looked a bit like a jungle.Read more
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Day 81
Sunday, January 28, 2018 at 4:10 PM
☀️ 34 °C
Altitude: 308 m
Chile Estero La Junta -41.41398, -72.1324641°24’50” S 72°7’57” W
Day 1 - Cochamo Valley
January 28, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C
After a lovely hike for about 4 hours from the Base Camp, we have arrived to our camp. This will be our home for another 4-6 nights. We pitched our tent closer to the river and I could go crazy because of the horseflies everywhere.
In the afternoon we went to have a look at the other campsites and crossed a river to have a look at the tobogan. I think Petr will definitely return to test it out.
For dinner we had delicious pasta a went to bed early as it was a long day.Read more
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Day 82
Monday, January 29, 2018 at 11:30 AM
🌙 -10 °C
Altitude: 824 m
Chile Puerto Varas -41.42918, -72.1288441°25’45” S 72°7’44” W
On a way to the Amfiteater
January 29, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 -10 °C
Not that long hike that runs along two beautiful waterfalls and through a rainforest with huge alerces trees. We have seen quite few lizards taking in the sun and enjoyed walk in a shade as the sun was really out there.
We have climbed one of the waterfalls and then struggled a bit with getting down.
Last 500 m weren't that tough and in no time we have reached the amazing place.Read more
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Day 82
Monday, January 29, 2018 at 4:24 PM
🌧 21 °C
Altitude: 975 m
Chile Puerto Varas -41.43784, -72.1278841°26’16” S 72°7’40” W
Day 2 - Amfiteater
January 29, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌧 21 °C
After 2 waterfalls and 800 m of elevation we have reached the Amfiteater.
I'm not sure what is the play for today but we have enjoyed a lovely lunch with tuna and freshly baked bread.
The views are really stunning and the weather really worked out.
If it wouldn't be for all the horseflies, it would have been perfect.
After lunch we braved another 100 m of elevation to get to an interesting snow cave that has been created by melting ice.
On a way down we almost didn't find a path a took a little detour.
We made it back in 2 hours and starting cooking dinner as we were pretty starving.Read more
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Day 83
Tuesday, January 30, 2018 at 3:20 PM
☀️ 34 °C
Altitude: 307 m
Chile Estero La Junta -41.4141, -72.1318841°24’51” S 72°7’55” W
Day 3 - Cochamo Valley
January 30, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C
Today we have woken up to a rainy morning. The weather forecast was ear about it and therefore we have used this time to plan our trip further and read the travel guide about Peru.
As the day got on, the weather improved slightly and I have done some washing and I have finally fixed my pants.
We cooked and early dinner and watched couple of Friends.
Tomorrow we are continuing with another hike so it's nice to have a easy day.Read more
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Day 85
Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 11:30 AM
🌙 -10 °C
Altitude: 329 m
Chile Estero La Junta -41.40876, -72.1251241°24’32” S 72°7’30” W
Day 5 - Tobogan
February 1, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 -10 °C
Petr has been checking out the tobogan from day one. It's naturally created and looks dangerous to me. He couldn't wait to get on there. We got there quite early and there was no one around. First we took couple of pictures before Petr decided to go for it. The water underneath was freezing and I had a problem standing there.
Petr bravely climbed up the rock and with a full swing slides to the lagoon.
Absolutely loved It! I managed to get couple of really good pictures and videos.
Petr slides 6 times before he was definitely too cold to go for another one.
Thankfully the sun was shining and by the time we got back to camp, he was almost dry.Read more
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Day 85
Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 5:56 PM
🌙 -10 °C
Altitude: 15 m
Chile Río del Este -41.37898, -72.290641°22’44” S 72°17’26” W
Cochamo Valley -> Ensenada
February 1, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 -10 °C
Once we got back from the slide, we packed again all our stuff and headed to the Base Camp to try to catch the bus.
It's 13 km hike and we had 3 hours to get all the way to Cochamo to get the bus.
I thought we can never make it but we picked up a pace and it was mostly die the road.
First 11 km we did in 2 hours so we pretty much ran :)
The last 2 km was easy and last 100 m we had to actually run with the backpacks on as the transfer to Cochamo was about to leave.
We hopped on and thankfully managed to catch the bus.
The weather was great and soon we could see the volcanoes in the area.
We have arrived to Ensenada that has view to three volcanoes. Grabbed the first, rather expensive camp and headed to the beach.Read more
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Day 85
Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 8:34 PM
☀️ 9 °C
Altitude: 29 m
Chile Ensenada Volcán -41.2086, -72.5415941°12’31” S 72°32’30” W
Ensenada
February 1, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C
Lovely little place directly on the shore of Lago Ll.... From the beach that was covered in volcano ashes and rock from the Chalbuco explosion in April 2015 is a lovely view to Volcano Osorno and .... .
We got there right on time and after couple of days in Cochamo Valley where we didn't have any access to drinks, we have enjoyed lovely sunset with beer and chips, our favorite in South America :)Read more
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Day 86
Friday, February 2, 2018 at 4:18 PM
☀️ 20 °C
Altitude: 90 m
Chile Puerto Varas -41.31978, -72.9890241°19’11” S 72°59’20” W
Puerto Varas
February 2, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Town directly on the lake with view of the Osorno volcano was built by German migrants back in 19th century and the signs are still visible everywhere.
We walked through the town discovering many of its beauties and admired hydrogenas in full bloom.
The beach in the town filled up with people swimming in the lake and the entire town had very pleasant atmosphere.
In the camp where we stayed we had finally our first asado and enjoyed pisco sour.Read more
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Day 87
Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 1:25 PM
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 80 m
Chile Frutillar -41.13637, -73.027841°8’11” S 73°1’40” W
Frutillar Bajo
February 3, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
After a disappointing visit to Llanquihue we decided to check out the Fiesta de Las cervezas in Frutillar.
That turned out to be not that cool after all and instead of hanging around we decided to head to Frutillar Bajo that is by the lakeside.
It's really pleasant little place with view of four different volcanoes.
The beach was full of people with plenty of them swimming on the lake. Further on the lake were yachts and windsurfers.
With the beautiful sunny weather we caught here it was picture perfect.
There is really nice pier and the southenmost opera house in the world.
We took a stroll along the beach and visited summer food festival.Read more
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Day 87
Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 5:27 PM
☀️ 23 °C
Altitude: 54 m
Chile Puerto Varas -41.31783, -72.9827741°19’4” S 72°58’58” W
Día del Kuchen
February 3, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
One of the best festivals we have encountered so far in South America. It was more lively then the one in Frutillar as the main square was filled with people.
A huge table covered with a white tablecloth has been set up along with a stage. On the table was soooo many "kuchen".
There was live music with original German fully clothed band :) It took a while for the judges to taste the 20 cakes that has been put up for the competition. In the meantime they started to hand over the donated pies. We had three different types and they were all delicious.
There was beer drinking competition for men and women and kids had their juice challenge.
I had to of course take a part and won a 3rd place. The price was cool t-shirt, pint glass and a bottle of beer.Read more
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Day 88
Sunday, February 4, 2018 at 2:25 PM
☀️ 30 °C
Altitude: 127 m
Chile Puerto Varas -41.17328, -72.4477241°10’24” S 72°26’52” W
Saltos de Petrohue
February 4, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
We have chosen Sunday for our visit and if we would have known what is ahead, I think we would have waited one more day.
It's located in National park and therefore there is CONAF who will charge you even for breathing :)
We paid the foreigner charge of 4 000 CLP and walked the 500 m to the "waterfall".
I must say, it was quite disappointing. It looks like a river with few rocks that create a but of cascades.
We definitely didn't think it was totally worth the money.
Hey ho! We shall know better next time!Read more
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Day 90
Tuesday, February 6, 2018 at 4:53 PM
☀️ 20 °C
Altitude: 13 m
Chile Valdivia -39.81323, -73.2484539°48’48” S 73°14’54” W
Mercado Fluvial del Valdivia
February 6, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
One of the main reasons for us to visit Valdivia is a colourful market by the river. One side is dedicated to fruit and vegetables and second to a fish market that you can smell instantly.
The biggest attraction of the market lies in the water and on its shore. Small colony of Lobos Marinos realized an easy lifestyle feeding on the remains of the fish thrown into the river by the fishmongers.
That allows for a very close up look at those huge and amazing animals.
We absolutely loved looking from the pier at the while they swim around, feed on the fish heads or sleep.Read more
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Day 90
Tuesday, February 6, 2018 at 5:15 PM
☀️ 20 °C
Altitude: 23 m
Chile Parque -39.82306, -73.2368939°49’23” S 73°14’13” W
Valdivia - day 1
February 6, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Our first day in Valdivia we were pretty tired as we have slept only 3 hours due to super rude Chileano in camp in Puerto Varas.
We decided to take an easy stroll through the streets before we head for dinner.
Right on our streetcar have discovered fantastic fruit and vegetables farmers market where we bought huge bunch of red grapes.
Along the way we Foy d remains of an old fort or a submarine "parked" in the river.
As Valdivia is considered capital of the cerveza, we had to try in Der Bear pint of local beer.
The weather was really nice and we have enjoyed lovely evening.Read more
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Day 90
Tuesday, February 6, 2018 at 7:24 PM
☀️ 20 °C
Altitude: 14 m
Chile Austral University of Chile -39.81035, -73.2541839°48’37” S 73°15’15” W
OTOMANO in Valdivia
February 6, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
First proper dinner in a long time but it was worth the while. The patatas bravas were super delicious and the burger was even better.
We got a pint of beer to go with it and after that we were ready for bed.Read more
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Day 91
Wednesday, February 7, 2018 at 3:06 PM
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 20 m
Chile Corral -39.8885, -73.4299839°53’19” S 73°25’48” W
Corral
February 7, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Little village famous for forts that have been built in here around 1650 by Dutch colonizators.
We have walked to the first one that was for free and therefore not that big. Second one wasn't for free and didn't look that cool so we decided to get a slice of Kuchen each instead.
While walking around, we have discovered hidden Festival de gastronomia.
They had mostly fish and empanadas so we tried both.Read more
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