The big one

A 255-day adventure by Katarina Read more

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Day 112
Wednesday, February 28, 2018 at 4:07 PM
⛅ 32 °C
Altitude: 1,600 m
Argentina Cafayate -26.07162, -65.9591326°4’18” S 65°57’33” W
Cabras de Cafayate
February 28, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C
A little goat farm only kilometre from the centre of Cafayate. It's done really beautifully with vineyards adjusted to them.
We have tried some cheese that was really tasty but rather expensive to buy.
Instead we have decided to head to a bodega and try some wine instead.Read more
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Day 113
Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 10:30 AM
⛅ 27 °C
Altitude: 1,615 m
Argentina Cafayate -26.07521, -65.9733926°4’31” S 65°58’24” W
Cafayate
March 1, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
Small village right after the Quebrada de Las Conchas that is famous for its wine. The square is very picturesque and there is lots of vineyards we wanted to visit. We stayed in a really lovely hostel La Morada and cooked some delicious pasta for dinner. First night we stayed up till 3 a.m. chatting with an Australian couple. I think it's one of our favorite places in Argentina. Very chilled with super cheap wine.Read more
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Day 113
Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 12:45 PM
⛅ 32 °C
Altitude: 1,627 m
Argentina Cafayate -26.06161, -65.970326°3’42” S 65°58’13” W
Bodega El Esteco
March 1, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C
Stunning vineyard right at the beginning of the Cafayate. We decided to visit this one as the night before we have bought a bottle of their very delicious white wine. The tour was in Spanish but thankfully the lady showing is around didn't have much of an accent and I actually understood fait bit of what she was saying.
An amazing experience was to see wine of 2018 already in barrels when the wine home is still covered in snow.Read more
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Day 113
Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 3:36 PM
🌙 4 °C
Altitude: 1,624 m
Argentina Cafayate -26.07689, -65.9794326°4’37” S 65°58’46” W
Vineyards and wine tastings
March 1, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 4 °C
We instantly felt in love with Cafayate. The little village is home to countless bodegas and vineyards.
We have visited quite few of them and discovered delicious Torrontes Otoñal from Domingo Hermanos, lovely red from Bodega El Esteco or even tried wine ice-cream.
We will definitely keep an eye on for those ones back home.Read more
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Day 113
Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 4:36 PM
⛅ 31 °C
Altitude: 1,346 m
Argentina Morales -25.76812, -65.6846125°46’5” S 65°41’5” W
Quebrada de las Conchas part 1
March 1, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
Stunning part of the north Argentina. We took a tour from the Cafayate to experience this beautiful part of the world. The guide stopped several times at different sculptures and took as for a short walk around one of the formations. The afternoon light was creating beautiful colours and we could have taken so many more pictures.Read more
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Day 113
Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 5:37 PM
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 1,780 m
Argentina Quebrada de las Conchas -25.95925, -65.7446925°57’33” S 65°44’41” W
Quebrada de las Conchas part 2
March 1, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
For a second part of the tour we took an hour an a half hike inside of the Quebrada. The guide definitely knew where he wants to take us and there wasn't anyone else.
The hike followed path between cactuses with colourful peaks at the distance. For yeast part we climbed on one of the peaks from where the most beautiful view opened ahead of us.
Mountains full of colours with a sunset created an image that will be very hard to forget. The vastness of the panoramic view was absolutely overwhelming.
Definitely one of the most beautiful places we have seen.Read more
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Day 114
Friday, March 2, 2018 at 11:40 AM
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 1,423 m
Argentina Cafayete -25.85516, -65.7013825°51’19” S 65°42’5” W
El Amfiteatro
March 2, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
One of the two main attractions in the Quebrada de las Conchas. Huge amfiteatro created by mother nature that hosts concerts thanks to its fantastic acoustics. For us it was a second visit as when we visited it day before, it was cloudy and too late.Read more
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Day 114
Friday, March 2, 2018 at 11:52 AM
🌙 4 °C
Altitude: 1,406 m
Argentina Departamento de Guachipas -25.84884, -65.7012425°50’56” S 65°42’4” W
Garganta del Diablo
March 2, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 4 °C
The main attraction in Quebrada de las Conchas. We braved to climb inside of the devil's throat to get some beautiful pictures of the area.
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Day 116
Sunday, March 4, 2018 at 11:56 AM
☀️ 15 °C
Altitude: 2,467 m
Argentina Villa Florida -23.57625, -65.398623°34’35” S 65°23’55” W
Tilcara
March 4, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
Little village north of Salvador de Jujuy in the middle of the Quebrada Humahuaca. It's quite touristy place full of hostels. We are visiting specially for the Pucará Temple close to the centre and Garganta del Diablo. It's ideal for a day trip to Purmamarca that is even smaller and excluding Quebrada, there isn't anything else.Read more
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Day 116
Sunday, March 4, 2018 at 1:13 PM
⛅ 23 °C
Altitude: 2,342 m
Argentina Purmamarca -23.74625, -65.5015423°44’47” S 65°30’6” W
Purmamarca
March 4, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
Tiny village dating back to 17th century that has only few streets. The square was full of stalls with colourful souvenirs and textiles from llama wool.
The biggest draw this days is a stunning Cerro de las siete colores that rises right above the village.
We went to a small mirrador at someone's house that cost AR$10 and took some beautiful pictures.
One just can't believe there can be so many colours on one single peak.Read more
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Day 116
Sunday, March 4, 2018 at 2:01 PM
⛅ 23 °C
Altitude: 2,424 m
Argentina Purmamarca -23.75446, -65.501423°45’16” S 65°30’5” W
Paseo de los Colorados
March 4, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
Very short walk from the Purmamarca village through a little paso between the hills we discovered even more colours. There was litteraly no-one around and we had it all to ourselves.
We hiked closer to the huge cactuses to take more pictures. Seems you can never have enough of them.
The mountains had so many colours and with the prefect weather we just couldn't get enough.
It really is a beautiful part of the world.Read more
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Day 117
Monday, March 5, 2018 at 11:45 AM
🌬 32 °C
Altitude: 2,514 m
Argentina Pucara de Tilcara -23.58641, -65.4026223°35’11” S 65°24’9” W
Pucará de Tilcara
March 5, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 32 °C
Archaeological site of a great importance from around 12th century. While part of the Inca empire, it has been capital of the Quebrada de Humahuaca. Within last 50 years it has been largely rebuilt and reflects it's former glory. We visited on Monday as we could take an advantage of the free entrance. With a storm approaching from the mountains, it had a very special atmosphere.Read more
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Day 120
Thursday, March 8, 2018 at 1:51 PM
⛅ 23 °C
Altitude: 1,175 m
Argentina Salta -24.79496, -65.4114924°47’42” S 65°24’41” W
Last day in Argentina
March 8, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
As our Argentinan adventure is coming to an end, we have decided to treat ourselves to a nice day around Salta.
After breakfast we have gone for a walk to barrio we haven't visited the first time around and grabbed a delicious cupcake from a lovely bakery.
After that we have wondered around the streets as the weather got really nice and took few more pictures of this beautiful colonial city.
In the afternoon we took a lunch at a super touristic spot right on the square. The menu del día cost AR$140 what is rather bargain. We had a delicious starter and even better main. It was great for people watching. Guys who would polish your shoes while having lunch, few kids who begged for a piece of bread even though they were rather big or a strange lady who stopped at the table for waiters and finished all drinks around.
The evening will be dedicated to more planning and waiting around for our bus at midnight that will take us to the Bolivian border.Read more
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Day 121
Friday, March 9, 2018 at 9:15 AM
⛅ 15 °C
Altitude: 3,425 m
Bolivia Villazón -22.09654, -65.5961422°5’48” S 65°35’46” W
Border crossing Argentina -> Bolivia
March 9, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
After absolutely dreadful night bus ride from Salta to La Quinca we have finally reached the border.
Sick as dogs we dragged ourselves to the immigration to leave Argentina for the last time and enter our new adventure in Bolivia.
Thankfully the air wasn't that bad and we were talking to the immigration officer within 15 minutes.
Unfortunately he wasn't aware of Czechoslovakia splitting up 25 years ago and couldn't find separate Slovakia and Czech republic.
They took Petr's passport and went somewhere to find out what kind of country is it.
After very painful half an hour he finally found the right information and let's us through.Read more
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Day 122
Saturday, March 10, 2018 at 11:29 AM
⛅ 15 °C
Altitude: 2,994 m
Bolivia Tupiza -21.44397, -65.7231421°26’38” S 65°43’23” W
Tupiza
March 10, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
After horror border crossing to Bolivia and very confused town of Villazón, Tupiza was our first proper encounter with Bolivian culture.
We have arrived to busy bus terminal full of shouting women selling anything from tickets for next bus to coca-cola, ice-cream and orange juice.
We headed straight to our accommodation that was thankfully only couple of blocks.
We got settled with upset stomachs and after shower went pretty much straight to bed.
After lovely 18 hours off sleep we have woken up fresh and ready for the adventure.
We have walked the lovely square lined with palm trees, experienced army gathering not sure why and enjoyed view from a mirrador.
The first afternoon we managed a guided tour to the countryside.
Second day we headed for walk to Quebrada nearby, enjoyed Petr's first tuk-tuk tide and tried local oce-cream.
We finished the afternoon relaxing by the pool and enjoying swim.Read more
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Day 122
Saturday, March 10, 2018 at 2:47 PM
☁️ 21 °C
Altitude: 2,907 m
Bolivia Palquiza -21.52429, -65.754321°31’27” S 65°45’15” W
Cañon del Duende
March 10, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
First stop on our unexpected tour was Cañon del Duende. Absolutely beautiful and out of this world nature with rock formations in so many different ways. Our driver and guide in one person gave us 40 minutes to walk around and enjoy the beautiful site.Read more
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Day 122
Saturday, March 10, 2018 at 3:06 PM
⛅ 15 °C
Altitude: 3,198 m
Bolivia San Joaquín -21.32374, -65.8623221°19’25” S 65°51’44” W
Mirrador Toroyoj
March 10, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
Second stop was a view point where most of the trips to Salar de Uyuni start. Our driver drove very carefully as to get there we had to drive up and down many curves and few looked rather dangerous. Thankfully he is very skilful and even stopped along the way for us to take more pictures.Read more
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Day 122
Saturday, March 10, 2018 at 4:18 PM
⛅ 24 °C
Altitude: 3,707 m
Bolivia Uspacuano -21.45051, -65.8163121°27’2” S 65°48’59” W
El Sillar
March 10, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Driving right to the highest point for today's trip got us to the altitude of 3900 masl. There is only few view that would beat this one. It looked out of this world or as something you would see in Star Wars movie. We stood there and simply enjoyed the most amazing views.Read more
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Day 122
Saturday, March 10, 2018 at 5:25 PM
⛅ -1 °C
Altitude: 3,000 m
Bolivia Quebrada de Palala -21.42522, -65.7386821°25’31” S 65°44’19” W
Quebrada Palala
March 10, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ -1 °C
Final stop on our tour was a quebrada with very interesting formations. With the sunset the red rocks got even better and created spectacular display.
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Day 123
Sunday, March 11, 2018 at 10:33 AM
⛅ 24 °C
Altitude: 3,010 m
Bolivia Santa Elena -21.4634, -65.736121°27’48” S 65°44’10” W
Puerta del Diablo
March 11, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
First formation on our walk to the Inca Cañon was the Devil's gate.
We have almost missed it as we walked slightly more to the left and spotted it last minute.
Very strange formation created by nature did looked like a huge gate. Even though not sure why devil's. Seems to be quite popular theme in South America.Read more
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Day 123
Sunday, March 11, 2018 at 10:53 AM
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 3,043 m
Bolivia Santa Elena -21.46311, -65.7425321°27’47” S 65°44’33” W
Los Machos
March 11, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Next stop right after the Devil's gate were very interesting rock formations.
It looked rather intriguing and we must have admitted that mother nature has a great sense of humour.
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Day 123
Sunday, March 11, 2018 at 11:27 AM
⛅ 24 °C
Altitude: 2,919 m
Bolivia Quebrada de Huichuyo -21.52806, -65.741321°31’41” S 65°44’29” W
Cañon del Inca
March 11, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Our final stop has been Cañon del Inca located at 3 268 m.a.s.l.
With midday approaching and sun very high on sky, the cañon was full of colour and we could stop taking pictures.
Petr had to off course drag me all the way inside of the cañon until we reached a small waterfall and shrine up on the rocks.
We sat down and enjoyed the beautiful scenery.
On the way back we have met our tour guide from the day before and had a little chat. Apparently it's possible to walk 6 hours further into the cañon.
Thankfully he told us so on a way back and we could head back to Tupiza and straight towards the pool.Read more
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Day 124
Monday, March 12, 2018 at 12:14 PM
⛅ 24 °C
Altitude: 3,663 m
Bolivia Saltocasa -21.23261, -65.8198721°13’57” S 65°49’12” W
Tupiza -> Uyuni
March 12, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Well....to start off, we have almost missed the bus that did not exist and started our journey with an hour delay as Bolivian attitude towards travelling is very different to one back home.
We bought tickets from one company but then been told to travel with a different one with changing the bus in Apocha. Thankfully we have been saved by fellow backpacker who helped us change bus for a direct one with few last seats available.
Once we finally settled on the bus after changing the seats twice, we could start the journey that would provide one of the most spectacular views and scariest turns and twists.
Our off-road bus sounded few times like it will be it's last moments but still kept on going.
For 40 BOB it was an adventure worth the stress.Read more
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Day 125
Tuesday, March 13, 2018 at 11:05 AM
⛅ 0 °C
Altitude: 3,669 m
Bolivia Cuadrilla Once -20.47874, -66.8339820°28’43” S 66°50’2” W
Train cemetery
March 13, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C
Only few kilometres from Uyuni itself is located a very strange cemetery. Abandoned 25 trains that connected the West coast with the inland Bolivia.
The vastness of this place is incredible and it really plays with your mind.
We have spent about half an hour climbing on the trains and taking lots of pictures.Read more
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Day 125
Tuesday, March 13, 2018 at 11:38 AM
⛅ 24 °C
Altitude: 3,658 m
Bolivia Colchani -20.30176, -66.9406920°18’6” S 66°56’26” W
Museo de llama y la sal
March 13, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
One of the stops after visiting the Salar was a small village that lives of the salt flats.
We have visited a little crafts market and museum dedicated to llamas and salt. For 5 BOB you can have a look around. Not the best museum we have visited but we absolutely loved the salt llama standing in front of it.Read more
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