Sihanoukville

After a welcomed leisurely rise from bed and a slow breakfast of the best poached eggs since Australia (when Kim cooked them) we chose to spend our day down at Ochheuteal Beach.

By mid-morning the temperature was already over 30 degrees as we walked through the streets and along the promenade, where the sunlight exposed the tired grimy interiors and beachside seating of bars and restaurants that the dark, electric lighting and alcohol disguised in the evenings. We strolled straight past what looked like one long hangover, declining the repetitive offers to 'come in, sit down, drink, eat, yes?'. Eventually we found what we thought was one of the better establishments, a bar run by a Cambodian/Swedish family since 2009, and settled in for the day under parasoled sun beds.

From our shaded retreat we were able to people-watch to our heart's content. Our skin crawled as old fat white haired tattooed men flirted and groped young Cambodian girls. Whilst it was Cambodia and not Thailand we could not help but keep thinking 'Gary-bloody-Glitter'.

Looking out across the narrow beach to the incoming tide we could see the detritus of many nights' leftovers. Empty cans and styrofoam takeaway boxes were lifted into the surf and even babies nappies were amongst the litter. Had we been staying longer in Sihanoukville then we would have stayed at the quieter and cleaner Otres Beach but after arriving late yesterday and with only day before travelling again we chose to stick it out. Although we risk sounding overly negative and even ungrateful for the luck and success we have enjoyed on our adventure so far, we want to be honest in our description.

On a much lighter note, one very good thing, both there and across Cambodia's coast is the availability of cheap tasty seafood. Alex and Keo sampled barbecued baby squid and we enjoyed large tasty tuna steaks off the bone for a fraction of the price you would pay at home.Read more