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- Día 1
- miércoles, 11 de septiembre de 2019
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Altitud: 39 m
AustraliaMount Ommaney27°32’29” S 152°55’53” E
Getting there. Part 1

We thought that the 2017 trip would be our last major overseas expedition, but here we are again, still healthy enough to travel and continuing (with their encouragement) to spend the kids’ inheritance. Yes, a SKI Holiday.
Aside from packing, the worst thing about these trips are the to/from flights. That said, the flights went according to plan. The Emirates flight took off at 2100hrs as scheduled, and we were lucky enough to score a spare seat alongside us for the first leg to Dubai. As we discovered last time, DBX is a soulless place. It was a brisk 20 minute walk between gates, but since we had three hours to kill, that wasn’t a problem.Leer más
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- Día 2
- jueves, 12 de septiembre de 2019
- ☀️ 24 °C
- Altitud: 507 m
EspañaGate of the Sun39°51’41” N 4°1’30” W
Getting there. Part 2

We landed at Madrid as scheduled, but then had to find our way to Toledo, some 50km away. According to Mr Google nothing could be simpler. Jump on a train from the airport to Madrid’s Atocha station then get a high-speed train from there to Toledo. That’s fine, except when you discover that a key tunnel is closed for six months due to a network upgrade and you have to change trains just to reach the city. Fortunately there were plenty of helpful railway staff around to get us (literally) on the right track. Aside from a 90-minute wait at Atocha for the Toledo train, it all went to plan. The Spanish trains are very modern, and are certainly the smoothest and quietest that we’ve ever experienced.
We’d seen advertising signs for Uber everywhere at the airport and the railway stations, but when we tried to call one up at Toledo station a message appeared saying that the service was unavailable in the area. Unfortunately, there didn’t seem to be too many taxis around either, so we decided we’d leg it. The area was flat and Google Maps told us that our hotel was only 1.4km away. The first 1km was easy, a nice flat run, but that’s when we discovered a serious shortcoming of Google Maps. It gives linear distances but provides no clue as to how far one has to move in the vertical plane. The weather was quite muggy, and that last 0.4km up a steep cobblestoned road wasn’t a heap of fun with our backpacks and suitcases, We were happy to finally reach our hotel. Later, on discovering that most of the hotels were some distance further up the hill, we realised that we’d been comparatively fortunate. By that stage we hadn’t seen a bed for about 48 hours and had managed just a few hours of not very deep sleep on the flights. We decided that overall we’d handled things pretty well.
After unpacking, showering and snoozing we headed out for dinner. Brian decided to try a couple of the local specialties, so had a soup-like entree contains beans and partridge followed by some venison. Mary’s choices were a little less successful, but both of us were more interested in hitting the sack and catching up on our sleep.Leer más
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- Día 3
- viernes, 13 de septiembre de 2019
- ☁️ 20 °C
- Altitud: 507 m
EspañaGate of the Sun39°51’41” N 4°1’30” W
Henry Higgins lied

By the morning of our first full day on terra firma we were ready for some serious sightseeing. The old city ofToledo is certainly picturesque, with many interesting and attractive historic buildings. According to the Henry Higgins character in Pygmalion (and My Fair Lady) the rain in Spain stays mainly in the plain. Well, it certainly didn’t for us. After the previous muggy day, the weather changed overnight to give us a grey, overcast showery day. Still, we weren’t going to let that slow us down so we headed up the hill - the hill that we’d largely avoided having to haul our luggage up - to explore the old walled town.
We couldn’t help comparing it with Carcassonne in Southern France which we’d stayed in two years ago. Both are ancient walled cities, each on the top of a steep hill, but there the similarity ends. Toledo has an incredible rat’s nest maze of really narrow streets, and is far less touristy than its French counterpart. The shops and restaurants cater more to the locals than they do to the tourists, which for us was a plus. One downside though is that few people speak more than just a smattering of English. We tried to rely on Google Maps for our navigation but it struggled to work reliably in the area so we found ourselves doing a bit of backtracking each time that we tried to walk between any two places. Nevertheless we found the place interesting and enjoyable. The lady at the local Tourist Bureau had given us a map showing many interesting places to visit and it was clear that we weren’t going to get round all of them in the time available.
We started with the Museum of the Visigoths Council and Culture, which covered a significant period of 12th century history which neither of us had known anything about, Evidently, Toledo had been the centre of the Visigoth movement, and we learnt a lot from the visit. We then visited the impressive Toledo Cathedral, built between 1226 and 1493. Even by normal cathedral standards it’s a huge building, especially in its width. Even though there were a lot of visitors at the time that we were there, the massive space didn’t seem at all crowded. We were each issued with an electronic tour guide, but after a very interesting 90 minutes or so we were both staring to flag, so we cut out the last 1/3 or so of the tour.
After a some rest back at the hotel we had recovered enough energy to face the world sgain. At about 8pm it was still light and we headed back up the hill on the 10 minute or so trek to the old town. The place was jam packed, with what appeared to be mainly local families doing their shopping and dining out. We found a friendly local restaurant where Mary had a paella entree and a local beef main course while Brian enjoyed an excellent Toledan salad containing local ham, orange and other assorted goodies followed by the house specialty, a pork and tomato dish. It was accompanied by an excellent local red. We’ve enjoyed all the local wines that we’ve tried, and have found food and drink prices to be very reasonable, about half of what we’d be paying at home.Leer más
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- Día 4
- sábado, 14 de septiembre de 2019
- 🌧 17 °C
- Altitud: 507 m
EspañaGate of the Sun39°51’41” N 4°1’30” W
Another marvellous day in Toledo

The weather seemed to have improved a bit, so we headed out towards the old Jewish quarter which contains a number of interesting places we’d been recommended to visit. Our starting point was the Synagogue of Santa Maria la Bianca, hardly a traditional name for a synagogue one might think. It was built in the 12th century but in the 15th century it became a church. One can imagine the turmoil which led to that change, but it does explain the name. The building itself is impressive with Moorish architectural influences, but the displays inside the building weren’t all that interesting. Furthermore, no English language translations were available, which made it hard for us to understand the history of the place.
A couple of hundred metres along the road was the Sephardic Museum, aka the Synagogue of El Transito, which we also visited. That was far more interesting and we were provided with sheets containing English language translations, which made the visit far more interesting and relevant.
Finally, we visited the El Greco Museum. The 16th century painter is a favourite son of Toledo. At first the building was thought to have been El Greco’s own house but more recent research suggests otherwise. Even though it is located in the same short stretch of street as the two synagogues, El Greco certainly wasn’t Jewish. Many of his paintings have religious themes centred around Christ and his disciples. For us it was a very interesting and worthwhile visit.
By this time, which was mid-afternoon, the wet weather had really set in. Fortunately we had brollies and other wet weather gear but it took us a good half hour to get back to the hotel where we could dry ourselves out. The cobblestones are really slippery when they’re wet, so we were walking very carefully on the steep streets.
With it being so wet we decided to eat dinner nearby rather than venture back up the hill in the pouring rain. The place we chose was pleasant enough though we got a bit of a laugh from the fact that all the dishes, no matter what else they contained, came with chips. Hardly a traditional Spanish style. We are deliberately avoiding tuning into any news from Australia or any mother part of the world, but purely by chance we discovered that there has been flooding in northern Spain. Clearly we were on the very edge of it, so can count ourselves lucky that what we experienced was fairly minor.Leer más
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- Día 5
- domingo, 15 de septiembre de 2019
- 🌧 20 °C
- Altitud: 507 m
EspañaGate of the Sun39°51’41” N 4°1’30” W
"We operate every day of the year"

Oh no, you don’t, but more of that in a moment. Originally we were planning to forget about Madrid and concentrate our efforts on Toledo. Somehow though it seemed all wrong to have come all this way and to have seen nothing more of Madrid than the airport and a couple of railway stations. The Madrid weather forecast was for a possible thunderstorm but otherwise fine throughout the day. We decided to risk it by heading to the capital on the wonderful high-speed train then getting tickets on the hop-on, hop-off bright red double-decker buses which every attractive city in the world seems to have these days.
The helpful lady at the tourist information centre at Atocha Station (Madrid’s equivalent of Melbourne’s Spencer Street) told us exactly where the ticket kiosk was and gave us a brochure which included a map showing all the hop-on, hop-off bus stops. We emerged from the station only to find the main roads barricaded off and hundreds of police everywhere. The footpaths were crowded with happy Madrid citizens enjoying a Sunday afternoon in the city. So, what about the bus tours? Despite the first sentence of the brochure clearly stating that the tours operate every single day of the year, it’s clear that it wasn’t the case for Sunday 15 September 2019. Apparently there had been some big bike race around all of Spain, and it was finishing right there and then in the centre of Madrid.
Undaunted, we decided that we’d simply go to the Prado Museum instead. That was, until we saw the queue to get in. It was several hundred metres long and we weren’t going to be a part of that. Bike races aside, it seems that there are always big crowds in Madrid on a Sunday, made up mainly of family groups. While we were disappointed initially, the day certainly wasn’t a disaster. We wandered round, walking several kilometres admiring the interesting architecture and the interesting shops, The food shops especially grab Brian’s attention. There are shops specialising in ham of various types while others have amazing cakes, bread and sweets. By the end of the afternoon we were convinced that Madrid definitely requires a return visit. We can hardly wait.
As a footnote, we happened to see quite a few of the cyclists heading down one of the major avenues at very high speed. They were largely ignored by the general population who were more interested in the shopping, strolling and museum visiting. Clearly they had better things to do with their time too.Leer más
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- Día 6
- lunes, 16 de septiembre de 2019, 22:09
- ⛅ 21 °C
- Altitud: 808 m
EspañaCarmen de los Martires37°10’21” N 3°34’59” W
Toledo-Granada, a potentially hairy ride

Brian was always apprehensive about this part. A different car - a manual at that - a foreign country, the wrong side of the road and a long trip. What could possibly go wrong? The good thing was that we’d faced this challenge several times previously in France, Portugal and Israel so knew what to expect. We collected the Skoda Octavia from Europcar in Toledo mid-morning and headed off towards Granada, The major worry comes from Brian’s tendency to steer too close to the right-hand side of the road and risk either going into the dirt or having Mary remind Brian that we’re headed straight for a line of parked cars.
We were lucky this time as we were setting off on fairly quiet four-lane highways, which provided a good opportunity to get used to the aforementioned challenges. Something we commented on when we drove previously in Portugal was the excellent lane discipline shown by all motorists. Everyone sticks to the nearside lane unless overtaking slower traffic. They signal well before they pull out, and the moment they pass the slower vehicle they signal and then dive back into the nearside lane. Sometimes you almost feel as though they’re cutting you off, but it’s far less frustrating than having to contend with the poor lane discipline and stupidity of so many Australian drivers.
The first half of the 390km drive was through flat countryside, but as we headed further south it gave way to quite hilly terrain. We couldn’t believe how many olive trees there are. There were lengthy periods when all we could see nothing but olive trees stretching in all directions to the horizon.
Eventually we reached the Hotel Porcel Alixares, which we’d booked in for four nights. It’s a couple of kilometres outside the city centre but only a couple of hundred metres from the Alhambra Palace, which is why we chose it. Our room is a very generous size and the hotel itself is beautiful. It was just after we’d checked in that we were met with two unexpected challenges. The first was in the form of an email from Vuelling, the airline which was supposed to be taking us from Barcelona to Amsterdam on 24 September. They were informing us of a threatened strike of ground handling staff on 21 to 24 September and suggested that we might care to change our flight to another date while there was the opportunity. We therefore pushed it back by a day to the 25th, which means an extra day at the parador just outside Barcelona and one day fewer in Amsterdam. In the typical “heads you lose, tails we win” world of travel we have to pay quite a bit extra in Barcelona but don’t get a refund for the unused night in Amsterdam. Ah well.
Challenge number two arose when we tried to book tickets for the Alhambra. By government decree it seems, daily visitor numbers are restricted. That’s sensible enough, except that we didn’t know. The hotel staff were very understanding and tried hard to book us on an escorted tour, but they too are fully sold out There are no tickets of any sort available until early November...except for one thing. On the stroke of midnight each night any cancellations get released to the website for online bookings. It seems though that they get taken up literally within a few seconds. Brian set his alarm on the first night and tried to make a booking but was unsuccessful. All he achieved was a broken night’s sleep. The hotel staff have suggested that he come down to the foyer each night that we’re here at about 1145pm and they will try to make the bookings. Evidently this is a nightly routine for them, so watch this space.Leer más
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- Día 7
- martes, 17 de septiembre de 2019, 22:38
- ⛅ 21 °C
- Altitud: 808 m
EspañaCarmen de los Martires37°10’21” N 3°34’59” W
We explore Granada

We decided to do a bit of a wander on foot to get to know Granada but then came across a little hop-on, hop-off train which takes tourists round the key spots of the city. Most major cities offer either the little trains or the bright re double-decker buses. Quite on the spur of the moment, and since we definitely weren’t going to be seeing the palace, at least on this day, we decided it was a good way to get a feel for the city. As it turned out we hopped off after a couple of stops, wandered round for a bit then hopped on for a second short ride. After that, we did it all on foot including the long steep climb back to our hotel.
While there are a few interesting buildings to be seen and a lot of attractive small squares and parks, we weren’t as inspired by Granada as we had been by Toledo and Madrid. Alhambra Palace is the only show in town and we really hope that we can score tickets, though our chances appear quite slim.
That night we decided that, rather than eat at the hotel we’d try and scout out a restaurant somewhere nearby. There weren’t a lot of close by and we didn’t fancy the steep walk down towards the city and then the stagger home afterwards. Purely by chance we stumbled across Jardinas Albertos just a couple of hundred metres away, and it was outstanding! A great outdoor dining area, impeccable service and fantastic tasty food. They offer some traditional Nasrid dishes, and ordered the chicken and the lamb, both of which were outstanding. The chicken is described as: “Chicken Medallions Stuffed with Spinach Nuts, and Honey Sauce with Rice and Sauteed Vegetables.,” and very flavoursome it is too. Mary’s lamb dish is, “Oven Baken Sliced Lamb Leg with Fried Breadcrumbs Baby Green Peppers and Yogurt Sauce,” and is every bit as good as it sounds. It wasn’t the cheapest meal we’ve had since we’ve been away but it was definitely the best. We might even get back for a return visit before we leave.Leer más

Hopefully you'll win the lottery and get your tickets to the palace. Reminds me of when Julie and I tried to get tickets to Alcatraz. The only way was to buy tickets on a damn cycling tour as well. Good luck! Awaiting your next update
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- Día 8
- miércoles, 18 de septiembre de 2019, 21:46
- ☁️ 23 °C
- Altitud: 21 m
EspañaPlaza de la Catedral36°50’30” N 2°27’51” W
Further afield

Our day started at midnight, well actually a few minutes before. As mentioned earlier, what happens is that on the stroke of midnight each night any cancelled tickets to Alhambra Palace get released online and there’s then a mad scramble for people to grab them. Knowing that he’d missed out the previous night, the reception staff recommended to Brian that he front up at the front desk at about 2345hrs with our passports and the hotel staff would do what they could to help us. Brian set the alarm for 2340hrs and woke from a beautiful deep sleep to head down to reception. The night manager told Brian that he was second in line and that a French gentleman had arrived there a few minutes previously. Anyway, from midnight on the manager kept refreshing the web page when suddenly a couple of minutes later some seats suddenly became available for 19 September. The manager ordered four tickets and then proceeded to fill in all the information - passport details and much more that the authorities require - for the four of us.
That’s when we hit a snag. Spain has dual verification for all internet credit card transactions. So, when someone tries to make a payment they receive a one-time code on their mobile phone. That code then has to be keyed into the merchant’s website before the transaction can be completed. The problem was that neither the Frenchman’s credit card nor Brian’s was set up for such a system. The night manager then very kindly offered to make the payment from his personal card and we would then give him the cash. All that was fine, he completed the payment details and received the code. He then tried to enter the code, whereupon the transaction bombed out. We think that he may have been a bit slow in typing all the details and that our tickets got snaffled by someone else. Brian was willing to try the same routine again the following night but wasn’t at all hopeful. There it may well have ended.
In the morning, headed back from breakfast, we were walking past the reception desk when Mary said,”Why don’t we talk to the staff and see if they can help.” Brian didn’t think much of the idea but agreed to give it a go. Amazingly, the website showed tickets available for every time slot on 19 September Again, it was necessary for the clerk to use his own personal credit card and Brian immediately repaid him the 40 euros in cash. We felt like we’d won the Lotto. Brian’s theory is that the various airline strikes in Europe have caused some groups to cancel, thus making places available to the likes of us. If so, thank you strikers and keep up the good work.
Feeling quite thrilled we decided to head off for the day in our rental car and explore the Spanish countryside. We decided to head for Almeria, a town 170km away on the Mediterranean coast which is described as well worth a visit. Heading south from Granada, the scenery is outstanding with spectacular outlines of rugged mountains for most of the trip. It is a really good four-lane highway, with some really steep climbs and descents. It skirts the Sierra Nevada national park, and if we’d had enough time we’d like to have explored the region a bit more. Despite all this, we didn’t manage to get any photos en route, though we certainly enjoyed the scenic drive very much. Firstly, the air was somewhat hazy, smoggy even, and secondly those wonderful roads don’t offer any lay-bys where one can safely pull over and take in the scenery.
Reaching Almeira, we managed to cause a minor traffic jam while Brian tried to parallel park our left-hand drive car in a steep narrow side street. Aside from that, Brian had managed to get beeped at only twice when trying to navigate complicated roundabouts, so he reckoned that he was well on the way to being able to drive like a local rather than like a tourist.
Almeira is a beautiful port town, with very attractive parks alongside the port and beach front. It was quite warm and there were a few people in swimming. If we’d thought to bring our togs we’d have happily joined them. Even so, it was great to relax there and just take in the atmosphere of the place. The waterfront park contains a large number of mature trees from all round the world, and we were admiring some especially spectacular specimens when we discovered that they were in fact fig trees from good old Australia!
After a few hours, we decided to head home, this time taking the longer Mediterranean coastal highway to complete a grand circuit back to Granada. We have to say, that route was a bit disappointing. Even though the sea was visible for much of the trip, the air was really smoggy, which greatly detracted from the views. We got back to the hotel in the late afternoon, more than ready for a couple of drinks, the hotel buffet, and all this followed by an early night. In the two days that we have used the rental car, we’ve covered 750km, which has given us a great chance to see the landscape of southern Spain.Leer más
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- Día 9
- jueves, 19 de septiembre de 2019, 16:31
- ⛅ 28 °C
- Altitud: 808 m
EspañaCarmen de los Martires37°10’21” N 3°34’59” W
Alhambra, the only show in town

We made it! Let it be recorded that at 1030 on Thursday 19 September we managed to visit the Alhambra. Was it worth it? Most certainly.
The grounds and out-buildings are open to the public any time and they are well worth a visit, but the royal palaces are the cream on the cake. As we hadn’t been able to score a guided tour we found an English-speaking guided group and tried nonchalantly to tune in to what their guide was saying. That was easier said than done because tour guides these days don’t have to speak loudly. They’re equiped with microphones and the bone fide tour group members all wear receivers with earpieces attached. It meant that we had to stand close to the guide while pretending that we weren’t listening to him.
Anyway, the three palaces are each in their own way absolutely stunning. They all date back to the 14th century Nasrid period. We then took a walk round the extensive and immaculately maintained grounds. The weather was fine and clear, and it was good to seek out a bit of shade and sit down from time to time. Travel hint: lemon granitas in Spain are really the best on a hot day. Even more refreshing than an icy cold beer, and that’s saying something.
After a bit of a break we visited the Alcazaba military area inside the Alhambra complex. Our hard-won tickets included entry to this area. It provides a great vantage point over the city, and Brian managed to get some good photos from there., By mid-afternoon we’d seen everything we wanted to, so headed back up the hill to our hotel. Another excellent day and our plans were to cap it off with a return visit to that treasure of a restaurant which has the Nasrid cuisine. However, it wasn’t to be since when we got there we found it was closed. We’re not sure why as their website indicated that it ought to be open. Not to worry, we discovered another excellent restaurant and had a great meal. Furthermore, they served great coffee, which is something that we have missed since arriving here. Spain is a wonderful, wonderful country, but a good coffee is very hard to find.Leer más
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- Día 10
- viernes, 20 de septiembre de 2019
- ⛅ 23 °C
- Altitud: 548 m
EspañaCardona41°54’51” N 1°41’9” E
Things go pear-shaped

We had an enjoyable seven hour train trip at speeds of up to 300km per hour and arrived in Barcelona on schedule at 10pm. Dramas followed when Avis told us that our debit cards were unacceptable and that they would only accept a credit card. Furthermore the only such card we had chosen to bring with us was in Mary's name, and that was unacceptable because it was Brian who was hiring the car. Eventually and reluctantly they relented knowing that we faced a difficult 70km drive to our hotel.
The car was on the third level of a parking building which was deserted at that late hour. We put our bags on the floor by the car while Brian was moving the car forward to make room and was flipping the back seats down. Two young men happened to stroll by and one of them seemed to be asking Mary for some directions. While she was distracted the other one must have grabbed the backpack containing the camera, new iPad, iPod, Kindle and other bits and pieces including a couple of our payment cards.
Fortunately Brian was carrying our passports, the phone and the two main debit cards that we use in his security vest (thanks Allan for nagging us to get one). We then spent the next couple of hours traipsing around central Barcelona, very angry, and trying to find some police who were even vaguely interested. Clearly the two characters had been watching us from a distance and had chosen the right moment to pounce.
The main losses are our photos taken so far plus the lack of flexibility to take more good photos and write the travel blog which we so much enjoy doing.
It was a long and tiring drive to the isolated but spectacular hotel, not that we saw much of it when we checked in after 3am.
Sadly, our blogs from now on are unlikely to be as comprehensive, but we'll try our best.Leer más

Brian and Mary, Allan a d I are so upset for this awful thing that has happened to you. We know it will be hard to get over and we are so glad that you had passports and important cards stored safely. Brian, maybe time to buy another camera anyway- some good mirrorless ones available and lighter for travel. Our thoughts are with you. Carol and Allan

Allan and Carol. Thanks for your thoughts. We'll certainly get over it and are determined that we won't let it spoil the holiday. The camera was a few years old and I will get another one. I miss the iPad and keyboard but a replacement will have to be delayed until we get home.

Like I said to you yesterday, the most important thing is that neither of you were hurt. It's a huge pain in the butt but don't let it ruin your trip. I know that's easier said than done but you have so many awesome adventures ahead of you. Grab yourself a small camera to see you through until you can buy what you really want when you get home. There's lots of neat little pocket cameras around. Maybe the hotel can recommend a shop? On a brighter note, we've been watering your new plant. It's still alive and thriving :) Tell Mum her frangipani is showing signs of life again too. Rain forecast for the next few days but I won't hold my breath. Talk to you later. HK xxx
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- Día 11
- sábado, 21 de septiembre de 2019
- 🌧 20 °C
- Altitud: 531 m
EspañaCardona41°54’54” N 1°41’6” E
Quite a place.

Feeling rather flat, we woke up at about 8am and headed off to the buffet breakfast an hour or so later. We were still somewhat shell-shocked but eventually took a bit of a wander round.
The place dates back about a thousand years and the salt mines first created by the Romans are a major feature of the landscape. The building itself is a big tourist attraction with guided tours running almost continuously.
Late morning we decided to drive the kilometre or so to the local village of Cardona. From a distance it doesn't look so exciting but when we got there it turned out to be quite a pleasant place. We sussed out a couple of potential restaurants for dinner.
As befits a place like Parador de Cardona it has a very classy restaurant. We decided to indulge ourselves and dine in. Lots of interesting dishes. We shared a cheese platter with all sorts of accompaniments as a starter and both chose the rare and thinly sliced duck breast with assorted fruit flavours for the main. Excellent desserts followed. All this with a bottle of excellent local red. We haven't had a bad wine here in Spain yet. We're living in a manner to which we'id like to become accustomed.Leer más
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- Día 12
- domingo, 22 de septiembre de 2019
- ⛅ 24 °C
- Altitud: 239 m
EspañaParc de puigterrà41°43’45” N 1°49’21” E
Laundromat-led tourism.

Looking at the practicalities of holidaying we needed either to find a laundromat soon or pay ridiculous prices for the hotel to do our washing. According to our valued friend Mr Google the nearest laundromat was some 20km away at a town we'd never heard of called Manresa. We decided to head off, both to save some money and to see the countryside.
One thing which made us think twice though was the amazingly dense fog we saw when we looked out our window. No way were we willing to drive in that. Fortunately by the time we finished breakfast the fog was gone.
Retracing part of the road we'd driven in the wee small hours of the morning in an unfamiliar car to reach the hotel was quite scary. Some of the roads are steep and narrow, and there are a couple of hairpin bends which almost require a three point turn to navigate. The scenery which we were seeing in daylight for the first time is quite beautiful.
We reached Manresa, a historic town which now seems to have a large university, and eventually found a parking spot which Brian could drive into. He is still a long way from mastering parallel parking in a left-hand drive car. We've always found laundromats to be great places to get to know the locals, as invariably one has to seek help to master the peculiarities of the local machines. Laundromat protocol varies greatly from place to place but provided you don't tread on anyone's toes too hard it's possible to strike up some excellent short term friendships, as we did on this occasion. .
After the hour or so of domestic duties we set off on foot to explore the place. It wasn't the most spectacular town we've ever been to but it certainly offered interesting views and some beautiful old buildings.
One of its main claims to fame is the Cave of St Ignatius. We trudged up a couple of steep hills to visit it but everything was closed. The aforementioned Saint Ignatius of Loyola headed there in 1522 and spent eleven months meditating in a cave. For the devout, this is a pretty big deal which has put Manresa on the map. At least he had the benefit of a great view from his chosen spot.
After being spoilt the previous night with our dinner we decided this time to go more downmarket and look for something to eat at the local village of Cardona. Experience had shown us that Spanish people eat quite late with many places not opening up for meals until at least 8 o'clock. We set off just before 8pm for the five minute drive, found a tapas place and ordered our drinks and food. Just before 9 o'clock we tried to order a couple more tapas dishes only to be told by the surly waitress that they were about to close. Sure enough, they and all the other nearby restaurants simply shut up shop. It was a cheap night out for us but we didn't exactly feel that we'd overeaten.
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- Día 13
- lunes, 23 de septiembre de 2019
- ⛅ 23 °C
- Altitud: 21 m
EspañaPlaça de la Vila de Madrid41°23’6” N 2°10’24” E
We do Barcelona Part 1

Having got the basics out of the way we decided we'd devote the next two days to visiting Barcelona itself. Brian carefully mapped out a plan whereby we'd drive into the city, park at the Estacio de Nord (the northern bus station) then do the tourist thing by buying tickets on one of the hop-on, hop-off double decker buses.
Talking first about the drive, it can best be described as hair-raising, even if Brian doesn't have a great deal of hair to raise.
Our hotel was about 75km out of town, and given that about half the trip is on motorways with speed limits between 90 and 120 kph, it's clear that the bits at each end were dead slow. That's something we didn't realise when choosing where to stay. At one end are the narrow country roads and hairpin bends while the Barcelona end is jammed with traffic. Making things scarier, the speed limits are all about 20kph above what we Australians would regard as sensible, and the Spanish view anyway is that the posted speed limit is the absolute minimum at which one should drive. In our 1000km or so of driving we never once saw a police presence on the roads. There are many places where the traffic lanes are way too narrow which adds further to the challenge of driving a left-hand drive car.
The first part of the trip took us through the centre of Manresa, a place made famous by its laundrette and its misguided saint Ignatius who lived in a cave. We were to follow the road through Manresa a few times on this trip.
Anyway, back to the more interesting aspects of our holiday. Everything went to plan and we then caught the very efficient Metro from Arc de Triomf to Place de Catalayuns. We bought two-day passes and jumped on the first of our buses. The city is spectacularly beautiful, with so much interesting architecture, statues and promenades to see. So many of the old Spanish buildings have been beautifully restored, then there are the fascinating early 20th century buildings of Gaudi and his contemporaries. Finally, there are many modern buildings which are stunning in their unusual features.
One of the stops was the famous Sagrada Familia, the famous cathedral designed by Gaudi. The crowds milling round it were HUGE with hundreds of selfies per minute being snapped away. It was hard to get any sort of shot which wasn't like everyone else's and which didn't have lots of vehicles and fellow tourists dominating the foreground. Brian took what shots he could with the mobile phone.. Tickets to the cathedral were well and truly sold out so we never did get to see the interior.
Speaking of Gaudi, we'd been highly recommended to visit Parc Guell, a futuristic precinct initiated by Gaudi. It was one of the listed stops on the bus route, so we hopped off at the so-named stop. From there, it turned out that we had a 15 minute climb through narrow streets to reach the park entrance. That was fine and we handled it easily. What we weren't expecting when we got there were the very large crowds. Furthermore, as with the cathedral, tickets had sold out for the day. The very helpful information lady at the entrance told us how to get tickets online, warning us that there were plenty of dodgy websites claiming to sell tickets. Unfortunately by the time we got back to base, tickets for the following day were sold out too. Barcelona certainly beckons us to make a return visit, one which is better planned and more leisurely.
Having done a lot of walking and having seen a great deal we navigated our way back to the car followed by the long drive back. We must have hit the evening rush hour because the traffic in the city was exceptionally slow and challenging.
Rather than head straight to hotel we diverted into Cardona village where we enjoyed a cheap and cheerful meal. The place didn't have an English language version of the menu, but fortunately our waiter was able to drag the cook out of the kitchen and her English was good enough for us to be able to know what to order. After that it was back to the hotel to draw breath for Day 2.Leer más
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- Día 14
- martes, 24 de septiembre de 2019
- ⛅ 26 °C
- Altitud: 21 m
EspañaPlaça de la Vila de Madrid41°23’6” N 2°10’24” E
We do Barcelona Part 2

By this time we knew what to do, so once again we hopped into the rental car with all its high-tech features and headed to the parking building we'd used the previous day. This time we were catching buses on the so-called red route which was going on an entirely different circuit of Barcelona.
Again, it was great to view the beautiful architectural styles, admire the parks and squares as well as view some quite spectacular boulevards.
The bus route then took us outside the built up areas and into the hills overlooking the city. The public gardens there are really impressive as too are the views over the city. It was hot and we stopped for a cold drink at an outdoor bar which seemed to offer the best views of all. It had been part of the Olympics swimming centre, and what is now a public pool is still there.
A few hundred metres further on and we came across a museum dedicated to the works of the innovative artist Joan Miro. We were all set to buy entry tickets only to be told that they were free because the day was a public holiday. Not sure of the logic there but we were happy to accept their generosity.
The building itself is in a beautiful modern style and we thoroughly enjoyed the hour or so that we spent there. We then jumped back on one of the buses and completed the circuit back to the Arc de Triomf where we'd first got on.
Fortunately, due to the public holiday there was no rush hour traffic to contend with on the way home.
What about Barcelona? We have mixed feelings. Firstly we realise that it was a tactical error to stay in a hotel so far out of town. It would have been far cheaper, more efficient and less stressful to have stayed at a hotel in the city. We hadn't realised what a long hard drive it was between our magnificent hotel and the main attraction, which was Barcelona itself. Barcelona is a fascinating place and we barely got to scratch the surface. We'd love to have visited Park Guell and Sagrida Familia, not to mention some of the city's famous art galleries and museums.
There are some negatives. The level of petty crime is out of control, and we were among the many victims of it. It certainly put a dampener on our holiday. The other major negative is that the city is totally overrun with tourists, many of whom are young people who are out to party and have a good time. In some respects the place has turned itself into some kind of a giant theme park. That said, we are keen to return to both Madrid and Barcelona for more leisurely visits when we can get to know both places a lot better.Leer más
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- Día 15
- miércoles, 25 de septiembre de 2019
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitud: 9 m
Países BajosBioscoop Pathé Tuschinski52°22’0” N 4°53’40” E
On the move again

A leisurely pack and checkout, and we were off to the airport. We got there with plenty of time to spare so Brian decided this was a good opportunity to look for a replacement camera. While so many people are happy to use their phones for taking holiday snaps Brian isn't. There is insufficient control over the camera settings and, more importantly, it is very hard to see the screen in bright sunlight.
Barcelona Terminal 1 is huge and very modern, and once we'd passed through all the immigration and security checks we were confronted with a large array of shops selling all sorts of luxury goods. In that regard it was similar to any number of large international airports. Up till now we hadn't spotted any camera stores, but surely this would be the place to get a camera - or so we thought.
After walking for what seemed like many kilometres in the departures hall all we were able to spot were two smallish shops, both part of the same group, which had a handful of camera models for sale, but were mostly concentrating on other electronic devices. In fact they had a total of five camera models in stock, all of them from Canon. So, without any chance for product or price research we bought a Canon. When we commented to the salesperson that there was such a poor selection of models his comment was that this was the first camera he'd sold there in over a year. Amazing! Unfortunately, as we were flying within the European Union we couldn't even claim the gst.
The Vuelling flight was uneventful, though typically for a bare-bones airline they even slugged us for a bit of warmish orange juice. On arrival, after lining up with lots of other people in the wet weather for our hotel's courtesy bus it finally arrived, though it required about an hour's wait. (Every other hotel's buses seem to have been and gone a couple of times during our wait).
The 17 story hotel turned out to be extremely busy, but our room was generously large and very comfortable. It's one of those ultra-trendy ultra-chic places where everything is brilliant except for the lighting which puts important areas such as the wardrobe in almost complete darkness. We had a late night beautiful overpriced ($27) hamburger each, unpacked then hit the sack. At this stage all we'd seen of Amsterdam was rain and darkness, so we were looking forward to exploring the city the next day.Leer más

BW. Amsterdam is interesting. Anne Frank's house? Rijksmuseum I think? Look out for the 'Nightwatch.
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- Día 16
- jueves, 26 de septiembre de 2019, 13:37
- 🌧 15 °C
- Altitud: 9 m
Países BajosBioscoop Pathé Tuschinski52°22’0” N 4°53’40” E
Amsterdam, Day 2

We reckon that have just discovered the most unhelpful and incompetent organisation in Australia
The first hour after breakfast, when we should have been enjoying the sights of Amsterdam consisted instead of Brian bellowing down the phone to the people at Virgin Global Wallet and Virgin Frequent Flyer. This saga had been going on for three days without resolution. It could be the subject of its own blog, but the upshot was that we needed to transfer the funds from Mary's stolen Global Wallet card to Brian's, which was running low. It should be a routine online transaction, but it required the Virgin people to update Mary's mobile number before that could take place. Numerous lengthy phone calls to Australia followed by repeated assurances from the Virgin people that the problem was fixed instead resulted in zero progress.
Having made as much progress as we could with the useless clowns at Virgin we set out to explore another area of Amsterdam, this time the Museum district. What better place to start than the world-famous Rijkmuseum? It's housed in one of Amsterdam's most spectacular buildings, and that's saying something. We finished up spending quite a few hours there, all of it on the second floor, which is given over to art and other creations of the 17th century.
Of course this very much includes Rembrandt, many of whose original paintings are housed there. It was interesting to see his most famous work, the Night Watch. It is held within a large glass enclosure, which keeps visitors a good five metres away from it At any one time there would have been several dozen people standing in front of the enclosure, which we took to be a big crowd. However one of the attendants who started chatting with us told us that it was exceptionally quiet that day . She said that at the height of the tourist season the crowds viewing that famous painting were many times bigger than that. We certainly wouldn't have enjoyed it nearly as much under such conditions.
Something which particularly interested Brian was the large machine positioned in front of the painting, but obscuring only one small part of it. Millimetre by millimetre it is scanning the very large canvas, using Xrays, we think to analyse the paints and pigments . This is all in preparation for some restoration work.
We spent the next few hours up to the 5pm closing time admiring many of the wonderful works on display in the museum . And that was only one of the three floors of this great institution . Afterwards we wandered around the museum precinct, thinking about all the other museums which we'd really like to see. Top of the list would have to be the Van Gogh museum. That will have to wait until our next visit.Leer más
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- Día 16
- jueves, 26 de septiembre de 2019
- 🌧 16 °C
- Altitud: 9 m
Países BajosBioscoop Pathé Tuschinski52°22’0” N 4°53’40” E
Initial challenges, before it comes good

After we'd had breakfast and got ourselves organised we decided to head downtown to explore Amsterdam . The no. 13 tram stop was just a couple of hundred metres from the hotel, and from there it was an easy 20 minute run to the centre of town.
The weather was lousy, with rain and Intermittent heavy showers. The wind was blowing strongly enough to turn our brollies inside out, and destroy Brian's, so it wasn't all that pleasant. Nevertheless we could see so many interesting views of canals and historic buildings and Brian was determined to try and get some good shots with the brand new camera.
This camera has so many features and menu settings that il requires a lot of time, which we didn't have, to become familiar with them all. So there we were, all rugged up against the wind and rain, wrestling with brollies and trying to use an unfamiliar camera while trying to keep it from getting wet. That was certainly a low point and the closest, so far at least, to Brian having a dummy spit. Fortunately Mary was there to help calm him down.
Things actually started looking up from then on, with the showers becoming less frequent. Also, Brian found that he was able to get a few half decent camera shots.
For a while we just wandered, enjoying the views, but then headed for the old Jewish district, which is part of the Old Town. As the rain was still hanging round we decided we'd concentrate at least initially on visiting the insides of buildings and avoiding the worst of the weather. The Portuguese Synagogue was quite interesting, evidently one of the biggest synagogues in Europe. Our entry tickets also entitled us to visit the Jewish Museum and that was really great , with the displays and exhibits beautifully set up. We spent quite a bit of time there, by which stage the weather had improved marginally.
We then headed headed towards the red light district, nowadays more of a tourist attraction than anything else. There was still plenty of interesting and unusual merchandise on offer from many of the shops but nothing that would appeal greatly to a couple who have been married for 52 years. Still we did thoroughly enjoy our introduction to Amsterdam.
It is a very picturesque city and pedestrian friendly, more or less. That qualification refers to the fact that, while there are plenty of pedestrian crossings and pedestrian traffic lights, they are completely ignored by the huge number of bike riders who clearly take the view that they have priority over everyone else. Quite a few times we found ourselves having to leap out of their way or get run down. .
One of the very pleasant features of Amsterdam is the friendliness and helpfulness of the locals. You only have to be looking slightly puzzled or be staring at a map and almost immediately someone will be asking if you'd like some help. On crowded trams, younger people would immediately leap to their feet to offer us a seat and were most insistant that we accept their offer.
By late afternoon we were pretty exhausted, so headed back to the hotel for a refresh before dinner.
Rather than eat at the hotel we then headed back on the tram towards town and stumbled across a really great, friendly and authentic Italian restaurant. The day had started out a bit shakily but got significantly better as it progressed. Amsterdam is an easy city to like.Leer más

Glad that you managed to buy a camera and canon is a good brand. You certainly are busy looking at architecture and galleries and will be pleased to relax on the boat. Carol and allan

Pleased to hear that you lashed out and bought yourself a new camera. Despite the lack of choices, I am sure you'll be pleased with your purchase. Dad having a dummy spit?? That's not like you. Despite the rain, Amsterdam looks like a great city. I will try not to think about my parents cruising the streets of the red light district haha Nice to hear that the people are helpful and not trying to steal from you. We do quite a lot of business there and I have always found the hotel staff to be very friendly. Looking forward to hearing about your next big adventure.....the river cruise :) xx H

Sorry to hear about having your bag and electronix flogged folks - but truly puzzled (as was the camera shop guy) as to why you need a fancy camera with "settings" ! I understand the desire to have a separate camera and do not understand how folks can be satisfied by a cellphone camera - but complex?? Nah - I have had a succession of mini-cameras and the current Panasonic Lumix is superb small and dust proof and powerful. Bruce C. Oamaru
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- Día 18
- sábado, 28 de septiembre de 2019
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Altitud: 9 m
Países BajosBioscoop Pathé Tuschinski52°22’0” N 4°53’40” E
Welcome aboard

A pleasant buffet breakfast and Brian was once again doing battle with the incompetents at Virgin Global Wallet. After them insisting that they couldn't do anything to help us until we had sent them proof by means of a screen shot from our phone proving that another part of their own organisation had done what was asked of them by updating Mary's mobile number in their own system, they finally demonstrated that their stupidity knows no bounds. We received an email telling us that the mobile number we had nominated as belonging to Mary and the number shown in the requested screen shot were different. The difference? One of them showed the +61 international dialling code while the other one didn't. So, email number 20 or thereabouts, pointing out their stupidity was duly sent. Surely that lot exists in some sort of Kafkaesque world.
Anyway, we duly checked out late morning and Ubered to the Amaverde, our mobile home for the next 15 days. Quite a few fellow travellers had arrived already, all of them Aussies or Kiwis, and we too were welcomed aboard. Ample sandwiches, cakes and drinks were available, and we were happy to make ourselves at home out of the wet weather in the large and comfortable lounge. At the 3pm check-in time we were shown to our cabin, where our luggage was waiting for us.
The cabin and bathroom proved to be surprisingly large with plenty of storage space. Heading back upstairs to the lounge we all received a detailed briefing about what was happening and what in turn was required of us.
One thing became apparent early on. With unlimited quantities of drinks and excellent food it would be easy to turn into a 120kg alcoholic very quickly. Dinner and drinks were excellent.
The tour leader had suggested that if anyone wanted to go for a wander, the Red Light district was only a few hundred metres away and was well worth a visit. We had seen it in broad daylight hours a couple of days previously, but thought it would be worth a look after dark. As we were passing the reception desk we overheard a fellow passenger, Caroline, asking for directions, so the three of us decided to join forces to explore the Red Light district.
It was a pleasant leisurely walk of about a kilometre to get there, and what a surprise when we arrived . It was so different from our previous daytime visit. For a start, the streets of the area were jam-packed with pedestrians., and clearly not all of them were looking for girls. There were so many restaurants of all styles, and all of them seemed to be doing a roaring trade.
Then, of course, there were the girls. There were dozens of them to be seen, but rather than standing in shop doorways each of the very scantily clad girls was standing inside what was almost like their own individual shop window. The moment a client opened the door and walked inside a blind would immediately be pulled down, and the rest was up to ones imagination.
Brian was carrying his camera on a strap round his neck, and the instant he looked like picking it up to get a photo there would be loud vigorous banging on the glass window and wild gesturing from whatever girl was the likely photographic subject. Fearing either a riot or a beating Brian had to abandon any notion of photographing the girls.
It was an interesting visit. Unlike Sydney's Kings Cross it wasn't at all seedy, and there wasn't the yobbo element that one might expect to find in Australia. We got back to the boat at around 11pm having had another full and interesting day.Leer más

I don’t blame them for freaking out when you tried to take a photo. Why my father wants a picture of some semi clad woman in a shop window, I’d rather not think about. Sounds like your boat and the service is fantastic. Enjoy! Relax!! Looking forward to the next update. HK xx
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- Día 19
- domingo, 29 de septiembre de 2019
- 🌧 13 °C
- Altitud: 13 m
Países BajosMaartensbrug52°5’27” N 5°7’17” E
Amsterdam to Utrecht and beyond

There's no point in trying to put a positive spin on it. The weather when we woke up was absolutely foul, with heavy rain and strong winds. It was far from ideal for sightseeing, but it was a matter of taking whatever opportunity one can to see whatever sights one can.
We had the choice of either going on an Amsterdam canal cruise on an enclosed glass-topped boat or of visiting a touristy Dutch village. We chose the former. It was a great way to see this interesting and beautiful city, even though what we mainly got were tantalising glimpses of highly photogenic scenes. After the hour long boat trip we were dropped off in the museum district and told that we had an hour of free time before we'd be picked up and taken back to the Amaverde. We'd like to have visited the Van Gogh museum but our guide told us that tickets are hard to come by at short notice and that they're available always only for specific time slots. Besides, we decided that a one hour time slot really wasn't enough for a visit to that or any other museum. Instead, we headed back to the Rijkmuseum and spent the time in the gift shop and foyer area.
During the Spanish leg of our trip we got into the habit of having a large buffet breakfast and then skipping lunch. Generally we'd then have a nice big dinner. With so much food and wine on our boat one would require far more self-discipline than we have in order to stick to such a routine. However, we did stick to having salad and fruit for lunch. At least that was the case until we discovered the raspberry ice cream dessert...
APT are evaluating a new system whereby every cabin gets issued with a mobile phone which is pre-loaded with their software. Aside from the phones having GPS and touring guides they also offer unlimited messaging and phone calls to anywhere in the world. Were it not for the fact that we had already bought a European SIM card for use throughout Europe we would have found this to be an excellent arrangement. In the afternoon there was a briefing and help session given by the company supplying the special phones. We chose to attend, though Brian couldn't help himself. With his Brisbane Seniors Online hat on, he found himself helping several of our fellow passengers. The system is excellent, but given the age demographic, it may prove too challenging for many people.
The rest of the afternoon was free, after which we attended the Captain's Welcome Cocktail and Gala Dinner. Given that there were 140 passengers on board it was a bit of a ritualised occasion. We joined a couple for dinner who are former dairy farmers from Canterbury, now living in Christchurch. They were good company and we spent a very pleasant evening.Leer más
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- Día 20
- lunes, 30 de septiembre de 2019
- ⛅ 15 °C
- Altitud: 73 m
AlemaniaAndernach50°25’34” N 7°24’31” E
No eau in Cologne

While we were all tucked up in bed the ship was sailing from Utrecht to Cologne, arriving about the time that we were waking up. The really good news was that for the first time since we'd left Spain the weather was dry.
The ship berthed practically in the centre of the city, so our guide collected us directly from the ship for the leisurely walk through historical Cologne. Its most famous landmark of course is the cathedral, and we headed off in that direction.
To put it bluntly, we were somwhat disappointed by Cologne. It had had to be totally rebuilt after the war, but it wasn't done very well, particularly when compared to other cities which were rebuilt in ways which were far more sympathetic to their history. Certainly there are some attractive old buildings but they are generally surrounded by other buildings which are more modern and totally unattractive. Even the cathedral itself is hemmed in by an ugly museum of Roman history and various other nondescript structures.
True, it is a world heritage listed building with a history going back to the 13th century. It's also huge, being the tallest twin spire cathedral and the third tallest cathedral of any type in the world. However the building looked rather grey and dirty over most of its stone walls, giving the impression that it needed a good pressure clean. In reality it isn't that simple, and there is quite a bit of major restoration work being done continuously to the exterior.
We then went inside, and that was impressive. That's where we could gain an appreciation of the size of the building and admire its many stained glass windows. From there we wandered through the old town square and on to a brewery where we were treated to an "authentic " German experience. There were some light snacks laid out and, as part of the deal, those of us who wanted them were served two glasses of beer. Unlike the famous steins of Munich and elsewhere these glasses were only 200ml. Not much chance of anyone getting drunk. While we were onshore, our ship was sailing from Cologne to Bonn, so we were shepherded onto buses for the 30 minute drive to the ship.
Throughout the trip so far we have been highly impressed by the smooth organisation and by the precision with which everything takes place. Our buses arrived in Bonn exactly as the ship was berthing.
As mentioned, we felt that Cologne wasn't an especially attractive place, particularly when compared with other cities such as Amsterdam, Barcelona, Toledo and Madrid which we have visited recently.
However, the day was to look up considerably. Back on the ship and after lunch the wind dropped and the sun began to shine. Furthermore we were just entering the most interesting stretch of the Rhine, so it was a great opportunity to get out on to the deck and start taking photos of the passing scenery of castles, churches and very attractive small towns.
Dinner this night wasn't on board ship but instead was at a real live castle and hosted by a real live princess. Not that we were too overawed by the latter, since Europe is filled with faded royalty. Nonetheless, the grandly titled Princess Luise Dorothea von Hohenzollern-Namedy turned out to be a very charming lady and she welcomed us all in a long and gracious speech. We then had a free run of the grounds and most of the rooms of Schloss Burg Namedy . To pay for what must be the very expensive upkeep of the castle and grounds it is now run as a reception centre. We had exclusive use of it for a very pleasant dinner in the large reception hall.
The Princess and her late husband's family are great sponsors of classical music and opera, and the evening concluded with a short recital on the grand piano given by an up and coming expatriate Australian pianist Robbin Reza.
After that, it was all aboard the buses for the 15 minute drive back to our ship.Leer más
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- Día 21
- martes, 1 de octubre de 2019
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Altitud: 118 m
AlemaniaRüdesheimer Aue49°58’56” N 7°55’48” E
Having ones cake and eating it too

We'd been told by the excellent Cheri, our Tour Director, that we'd be getting into the main part of the Rhine gorge overnight and that we'd be in an area of castles from about 4.30am. No castle is worth getting up that early for, but in a heroic act we set the alarm for 6.30am. Looking out the cabin window everything was still pitch black, so whatever we missed, we would have missed anyway.
We headed up to the top deck at about 7.30 and joined a few hardy souls who were already there and madly taking photos. No question, there was plenty to see, with many photogenic little riverside towns, impressive church towers and, yes, quite a number of castles. Our GPS-driven audio guide would tell us what was coming up, which was very helpful. Brian managed to get quite a few (hopefully) good photos. We shall see.
The only slight downside was the weather. There was a cold wind blowing, and even though we were well rugged up it was a bit of an act of endurance. After a couple of hours, having viewed the famous Lorelei, we retreated to the lounge to watch the changing view from there. Every so often, when there was an interesting sounding alert on his audio guide, Brian would head upstairs to get some more pictures..
We were headed for the town of Rudesheim, where we'd been given the choice of two alternative shore activities. We could visit the museum of mechanical musical instruments or we could take a ride in a semi-enclosed gondola to the summit of the hill overlooking Rudesheim.
As the weather was so unpredictable we had opted for the former, even though Brian was cynically expecting it to be little more than a rather kitsch tourist trap. How wrong he was! It was absolutely amazing and we'd love to have spent a lot longer than the allocated 40 minutes there.
The museum has been in the hands of the one family for three generations and they have a true passion for collecting and restoring these ingenious machines. Most of them date back to the early years of last century and many are in good working order. Some of the more elaborate ones are up to 2.5 metres tall by about 2m wide and incorporate various instruments - piano, multiple violins, pipe organ, drums and so on. They contain the most ingenious mechanisms which are governed by perforated paper rolls similar to pianola rolls. The working models were able to play instantly recognisable versions of very well-known musical pieces.
We'd been told that we would have enough time if we so wished to buy our own tickets and take the gondola ride. At that stage the weather had cleared a bit so we strolled the 50 metres or so and bought our tickets. It really is a highly scenic and enjoyable ride to the top. We travelled the whole way above vineyards, the Rhine Valley being famous for its wines. The views on the way up and from the summit are really great. One looks over the very picturesque town and beyond it to the river. There is also a giant memorial at the top, built in 1877 to commemorate Germany's victory in the Franco-Prussian war of 1870.
Rudesheim is a beautiful town. While it is undoubtedly busy during the tourist season, we were fortunate enough to be there when it was very quiet. While doubtful at first we were pleased to have enjoyed both of the available tour options and so, to have had our cake and eaten it too.
Having dined in a palace with a real live princess the previous night it would have been too much of a shock for us to go straight back to dining with the hoi polloi in the main restaurant the following night. Fortunately we had a way out of that difficult situation. The ship also has a gourmet restaurant, named Chef's Table , seating up to 24 guests. Anyone can book it at no extra cost, the only stipulation being that one can book it no more than twice on a voyage. We'd already booked it a couple of days previously for 1st October, so that worked out rather well. Our table of nine had some real characters and was rather riotous, particularly after a few glasses of the free-flowing wine had been consumed. As one might expect, the six-course meal was superb.
As we were leaving the restaurant a quiz night was just starting in the main lounge, so we decided to join them. We won, the prize being a box of chocolates which none of us really needed. On the strength of our quiz success and of having got on so well together we made a block booking for the Chef's Table for 6 October. A great day all round.Leer más
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- Día 22
- miércoles, 2 de octubre de 2019
- ☁️ 10 °C
- Altitud: 132 m
AlemaniaGrau-Berg49°42’7” N 9°15’21” E
Precision driving

We travelled through the night, and from what we could gather, there was a great deal happening while we were sleeping off the effects of our over-indulging. All told our trip takes us through 66 locks, each one requiring some very tight manoevering of our 130 metre long ship.
After breakfast Brian ventured up to the top deck and was chatting with our very friendly captain while he was manoevering us into one of the locks. His aim was to place the ship within a couple of centimetres of the side of the lock, and he demonstrated some real precision tweaking of the controls in order to do it. As he pointed out, a one centimetre movement at the bow can result in ten times that movement at the stern. Once we were correctly positioned within the lock a couple of the crewmen were running around frantically operating winches and securing the ship tightly within the lock. Of course it had to be done in a way which still allowed the ship to rise as water entered the lock. This detailed procedure had to be repeated for every one of those 66 locks. As a further complication there are a few locks, referred to as banana locks, which are slightly curved. Evidently they are even more challenging, and probably explain the occasional thumps that we felt as our ship travelled through the night.
Then there were the low bridges. We got to experience one of them. As we approached it the wheelhouse was lowered hydraulically until its roof was the same level as the upper deck. The captain meanwhile opened a hatch in the ceiling so that he could steer. At the same time we were told very strictly that we had to remain seated while we passed under the bridge, but were reassured by the captain that, provided we followed his instructions, we would be OK. As we got within a few metres of the bridge we became less confident of this and felt as though we were playing chicken with a runaway train. It was a great relief when we did pass under the bridge with no more than 30 cm between the tops of our heads and the underside of the stone bridge.
We spent the morning alternating between admiring the scenery, taking photos and freezing on the top deck then going down to the lounge and thawing out. By lunchtime we had reached Miltenberg a quaint old town with a history going back to Roman times. Our guide there, dressed in traditional lederhosen, introduced himself to us as Jim - hardly a traditional German name. The fact that he spoke with a broad Glaswegian accent added further to the incongruity. It turns out that he met and married a local German girl and was a long term resident of the town. He was very knowledgeable, and that, combined with a typical Scottish sense of humour made our walking tour of the town both pleasant and informative. We found Milternberg to be a well preserved and interesting place. Like so many of the towns visited so far it was moderately busy, but we can imagine that in the height of the tourist season it would be a place best avoided.
Following our excellent dinner on the ship we drifted up to the lounge where the onboard entertainers, a husband and wife team, were just beginning a Tribute to the Beatles performance. Having had a glass or two of the freely flowing wine we happily sang along, as did many others. Then Mary really entered into the spirits of things and had an enjoyable time reliving her days as a mad Beatles fan and dancing to the music.Leer más
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- Día 23
- jueves, 3 de octubre de 2019
- ⛅ 10 °C
- Altitud: 227 m
AlemaniaGalgenberg49°47’29” N 9°57’12” E
The German word for kitsch is kitsch

After sailing through the night we arrived at the large town of Würzburg at around 9am. We'd been given a number of choices of activity for the morning, among them a trip to what our information sheet told us was the most famous and perhaps one of the most picturesque villages in all of Germany, Rothenberg ob der Tauber. That was the option we chose. It took us about an hour to get there, which was great as it gave us a good opportunity to see more of the German countryside, which was very scenic. Much of the land was planted out as vineyards, particularly on the steep hillsides, while the flatter areas were growing crops such as sugar beet and winter wheat. This time we had a German guide, an art historian, who spoke excellent English and who was very knowledgeable. As we all know though, Germans don't do humour very well and she shouldn't have tried. Our Scottish guide from the previous day had been way better.
This day was a national holiday celebrating Germany's reunification, so about half the shops in the town were closed, not that that bothered us at all. Despite the closures and the cold dry weather in what should be the tourist off-season the place was quite busy. One wouldn't want to be there at the height of the season.
The mediaeval town dates back to 1274, and it is beautifully preserved. The buildings are interesting to see, though Brian found it quite challenging to take good photos which didn't have tourists or parked cars in the way. We were given a couple of hours to browse through the town, and this was more than adequate. There were plenty of little cafes and bars to choose from, but as we get generously fed and watered on board our ship we had adopted the Nil by Mouth approach while out and about.
What we couldn't get over was how unbelievably kitsch so much of the merchandise in the shop windows was. It gave a somewhat touristy tacky feel to the place even though it is a very nice town in all other respects.
There is a chain of Christmas shops called Käthe Wolfahrt, which occupy prominent positions, at least in every German town we have visited so far. They do overpriced kitsch like nobody else, though they had several competitors in terms of sucking in tourists' euros.
After spending every bit as much time as we'd wanted in Rothenberg we jumped on the buses and headed back.
The real surprise came after lunch when Brian and a couple of fellow passengers decided to borrow bikes and go off to explore Würzburg. Mary declined to join us, having decided some time ago that she and a bicycle are not a good combination.
Brian quickly realised that Würzburg was where we should have spent the whole day. It is a really appealing town with a lot of interesting architectural styles, beautifully restored buildings and wonderful parkland surrounding it all on three sides. It was the first time Brian had ridden a bike since our last overseas holiday two years ago, and he was quite wobbly. This being a public holiday the footpaths were filled with pedestrians none of whom realised how lucky they were not to have been mowed down by an out of control bicycle. Unfortunately we were pressed for time as the ship was due to set sail at 4pm, so it was a bit of a rushed trip . The town offers so many terrific sights and photo opportunities, and Brian would have liked to have lingered a whole lot longer. Nevertheless Mary was quite relieved to see him get back on board still in one piece.Leer más
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- Día 24
- viernes, 4 de octubre de 2019
- ☁️ 11 °C
- Altitud: 226 m
AlemaniaPfisterberg49°53’40” N 10°53’46” E
Destination Bamberg

We'd got used to the pattern of sightseeing in the morning and then having free time in the afternoon. This time we had a leisurely morning on board while we continued on to our destination of Bamberg.
We were warned that, unlike all the other places that we had visited, Bamberg's port area is totally unattractive. As we saw when we arrived just after lunch, that was certainly the case. Fortunately we had buses to pick us up and take us to the centre of town.
Bamberg is certainly a very attractive town and we began by walking alongside the river from where we could admire all the old houses along the water's edge on the opposite bank. With good reason the area is known as Little Venice. We then walked quickly through the old town and up the hill to the cathedral. It and the surrounding buildings are quite spectacular, though our guide unfortunately was in a bit of a rush which limited the opportunity for photographs. Opportunities were further limited by the large amount of road and foot traffic in the area and by the fact that many of the buildings were undergoing repairs and restoration work. Nevertheless, what we did see was quite impressive.
Our guide then took us back down the hill to the old town, leaving us to our own devices for a couple of hours. That was fine, except for the fact that round about then it started to rain. This was unfortunate because up until then the weather had at least been dry, though overcast and cold.
Bamberg contains many shops and restaurants, and would have provided many photo opportunities also if the weather had been kinder. We were tempted to try the smoked beer, a local specialty, but as we had been eating and drinking so much on board the ship we decided to give it a miss. At the appointed time we were happy enough to get back on the bus and return to the comfort of our ship. We were certainly pleased to have visited Bamberg, though a little disappointed that the weather had prevented us from getting a lot more out of the visit.Leer más

I have been following your trip every day it sounds very enticing. The photos are great too. Marijke

SpydahThanks Marijke. Pleased you're enjoying it. I'm having fun writing it, and it's a good way of keeping friends and family up to date with what we are doing. After we get home I'll do some editing of the photos. We'll then get it printed as a book for us to keep as a memory and souvenir of the holiday.

Another place we enjoyed - just for a day - and stumbled across a choir practicing in the cathedral - free listening for an hour - not sure if it was "the" Bamberg Choir but great. Became intrigued with the smoked beer and pork fat with salt !! Bruce C
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- Día 25
- sábado, 5 de octubre de 2019
- ⛅ 9 °C
- Altitud: 299 m
AlemaniaHauptmarkt49°27’8” N 11°4’36” E
Notorious Nuremberg

Nuremberg's recent history is rather notorious, but the good thing is that the city doesn't shy away from its role in the period up to and including World War II.
No leisurely lie-in this particular morning as we were due to head off at 8.15am for a tour of Nuremberg. We had another Scottish - born guide who was very pleasant, knowledgeable and informative. She is at least the third such guide we have encountered - Scottish born, long-term German resident and married with family to a local spouse. Is it a form of Scottish emigration that we were hitherto unaware of? Could it be that the Scots are always able to find better quality partners overseas? At least that's Brian's line and he is sticking to it.
It was about a 15 minute drive to our first stop, the ruins of the giant and infamous Zeppelinfeld parade ground which was the scene of Hitler's Nazi rallies. One has to be there to really appreciate the extent of Hitler's megalomania and the scale of the buildings that he commissioned and his architect Albert Speer designed. To give an idea of size, some 700000 Nazi Party supporters attended the 6th party congress in 1934. Sufficient of the structures, including the grand platform from which Hitler harangued the party faithful, remain. One can get some idea of his megalomania by visiting this and other nearby structures, including an overscale copy of the Roman Colliseum which was never fully completed. Sheer madness.
From there, we drove past the courthouse building where the famous Nazi war trials took place.
We then headed to the other side of Nuremberg where our guide took us for a walk around part of the old city. It is certainly very attractive and boasts the biggest enclosed area of any walled city anywhere.
We were then free to wander round and explore for a couple of hours. Nuremberg has a lot of interesting old buildings as well as some excellent shops. We lost a bit of time while Brian searched out a camera shop where he could get a replacement lens cap for the new camera. Camera shops are few and far between these days so we were very pleased to have found one. We could have happily spent a lot longer in Nuremberg, but unfortunately time was limited as we had to move on. One good thing was that even though it was cold the rain held off for the entire day.
We were leaving the Main river and setting off on the Main-Danube canal which links the North Sea to the Black Sea. It is a major engineering feat, being 171 kilometres long, and has 16 giant locks. Many of the passengers, us included, spent a couple of freezing but fascinating hours on the top deck as the ship manoeuvred its way through some of these locks, which are impressive engineering structures. Three of them each have lifts of 24.7 metres, and most of them are at least 15 metres. They are 12 metres wide,. making it a tricky feat to steer our 11.5 metre long ship in there without hitting the concrete sides. We calculated that the largest of the locks required over 50000 cubic metres of water each time to fill it, equivalent to more than 1000 times the volume of our pool back home. Each lock took over half an hour to navigate. We were very lucky though because we got green lights all the way. If there are other ships either ahead of us or coming towards us then we could get delayed for a long time.
In the afternoon a guest lecturer came on board and gave us an excellent half hour illustrated presentation about the canal and its history, which really put things in perspective.
It seems the original canal dates back to Roman times when, obviously, it would have been dug entirely by hand. Nowadays the locks are all controlled remotely from three control rooms.
Early in the day we were told that we'd be meeting the sister ship to the Amaverde heading in the opposite direction. Then, later, we learned that it wouldn't be happening because the other ship had had to abandon its voyage due to the low water levels in the river system. In other words we were very lucky to have made it through without us having to be offloaded and put on buses.
After dinner we relaxed in the lounge with a couple of drinks while the on-board entertainers played and sang songs from our era. Mary made a name for herself and received many compliments for her enthusiastic singing and dancing.Leer más
El started at Day One - G on his pc