Monsaraz - Suspended in Time

We left Evora on a clear, sunny day and drove to the medieval village of Monsaraz. We drove through farms and fields of huge boulders piled on top of each other (how?) usually with a lone tree in the middle of the pile. As we neared Monsaraz, we saw the castle in the distance, and then we didn’t and then we did. It just kept disappearing on us. Magical.

Then we were in a dense fog and saw nothing. The fog cleared and there she was in all her glory.

Located on top of a hill with a superb view over the immense Alentejo plains and lake Alqueva, the village fortress is protected by its walls. It looks like it has stopped in time, with its white lime walls, schist narrow streets, and gorgeous little nooks.

Suspended in time, the historic village, one of the oldest in Portugal, is a must to visit. We have never seen anything like it. In 2017, it won the category “Monument Villages” in the competition “7 Maravilhas de Portugal – Aldeias” (7 Wonders of Portugal – Villages).

Monsaraz shows signs of having been a fortified settlement during prehistoric times. It has always had strong military and religious influences, preserving time until these days.

As we walked through the pristine, medieval village, it felt like we were walking in a movie set. This couldn’t be real, but it was. It was missing people dressed in medieval clothing and possibly donkeys carrying produce but it was magical!

It’s fantastic location, located on the top of the hill and then with a view over the river Guadiana and the frontier with Spain, made it highly coveted by the people who fought over it. Once called Saris or Sarish, Monsaraz was taken from the Muslims by Geraldo Sem Pavor (Fearless Geraldo), in 1167, who came from Evora.

After a later defeat which occurred in Badajoz, Spain, King Afonso Henriques again lost control of Monsaraz to the Moors. However, in 1232, King Sancho II recovered it once and for all with the help and support of the Templars. The marks left by the Templar Order, later Order of Christ, still exist among the castle walls.

We came upon an amphitheater that looked like it was still being used. Peeking into a restaurant called Cisterna, we saw a large photo of a rodeo/bullfight being held in the amphitheater. So our guesses were right on!

We ate lunch in another restaurant called Templarios (Templars) with fantastic views from the side of the fort overlooking the bigger dammed lake.

Nothing seemed real here - all part of an old nightd and castles fairytale...Read more