• Ladyandtramp
dec. 2018 – apr. 2019

Portugal and Islands - 2019

Een 96-daags avontuur van Ladyandtramp Meer informatie
  • Het begin van de reis
    27 december 2018

    A Dedication

    1 december 2018, Canada ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    This book is dedicated to our two daughters, Amy and Caitlin, their husbands, Tim and Matt, and our loving grandchildren, Audrey (6), Cal (5) and Nathan (2) who were able to join us for a week in Sao Miguel Island in the Azores, Portugal.

    “It is never too early to begin exploring the world.”
    Meer informatie

  • Writing this Blog

    11 december 2018, Canada ⋅ ☁️ -3 °C

    Welcome to our 2018/19 travel blog. No photos yet, but there will be, soon enough.

    During the next few months, Chris and I will try to post entries and photos on this NEWish blog site as we travel to Mainland Portugal, Madeira Island and the Azores. This is our second year using Finding Penguins as our travel writing template for blogs. We can write, post photos, show our location and at the end of our trip, we can order a hard-covered book of our blogs. Also we can work on the blog offline - a big bonus when we are in places with limited or no wifi. Last year, when we went to Uruguay and Mexico, we had our blogs made into a hard-covered book that was awesome. Yes, we had a bit of a learning curve when writing the blogs, but once we were used to it, all worked out very well.

    We have realized that writing a blog is a great way to provide ourselves with a record of our travels, a place to store some of our favourite photos, to give family and friends some information of where we are and what we are doing, and maybe to inspire a few 60+ year olds who want to try long term traveling with only a carry-on bag, a day pack, (and maybe a ukulele or puppets) while trying to keep to a budget. We do try to travel economically - shopping for and cooking most of our own food and staying in small local hotels/guesthouses that have been recommended to us by other travellers. In all of our adventures, we have always come home ahead of the game, in the financial area. It's a fact. It has been cheaper for us to travel than it is to stay home over the winter! And what wonderful places we have visited!

    Finding Penguins has some good little features. It has been designed as a place to record ‘Footprints’ or special moments. So we can write a little or a lot and each blog has room for 6 - 10 photos that can be viewed in a slide show. If you click on one photo, it enlarges and you can scroll through the others. Last year, we did not take a camera. We used our phone’s camera and at times the iPad’s camera and the photos turned out fine.

    You can choose to LISTEN TO OUR BLOGS! Highlight and copy the text, then paste it into the left pane of Google Translator at this address ...

    http://translate.google.ca/?hl=en&tab=wT#.,

    When you do this, it will automatically appear in the right pane (I.e., English to English translation). Then, just click on the little speaker icon at the bottom of the right pane and you'll hear it.

    We always love receiving short comments and we especially like the questions that some of you have asked about the countries we are in. If you click the "post a comment" button at the bottom of our entries, you can easily send a short message. Remember that the blog is available for anyone (in the world) to read, so be mindful of what you say. Over 30,000 people have read our past blogs. You can still send us an email at chronny80@gmail.com, if you want to.

    Before we head out on December 27th, we plan on relearning how to use this site by posting a few entries from home which will include our itinerary and our packing list. Then, we'll be ready to go!

    By the way, if you don't want to receive these pages, please ignore the notices from Ladyandtramp or take yourself off the list. We won't be offended!

    Have a wonderful holiday and keep in touch. Your little comments keep us connected with home. We love getting them.

    Connie and Chris
    a.k.a. Ladyandtramp 2018
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  • Background Info About our Winter Trips

    12 december 2018, Canada ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    Fergus, Ontario, Canada

    Each of our travel blogs have included an introduction similar to the one below with a new add-on at the bottom regarding new plans. This introduction has been growing and growing but I like to keep this going as a summary of our adventures. This year's winter trip is number 14.

    Here's how we caught the travel bug...

    In 1999, after taking a one year leave of absence from our teaching jobs, selling our house and purging most of what we owned, Chris and I packed our bags into a van and headed to Zamora, Michoacan, Mexico, to teach English to Mexican students. Our youngest daughter Caitlin had already left home to perform for a year with a traveling group called Up With People. Our other daughter, Amy had studied Spanish at school, so she traveled to Mexico with us, helping us navigate our way to Zamora. Shortly after we got to our destination, she flew home and started her 3rd year of university. She lived in a townhouse, with two other students, that we had purchased to store 1 roomful of our valuables and to have a place to 'come home to' when we returned. During that year that we taught in Mexico, we fell in love with its daily blue skies and sun, and the latino lifestyle. We promised ourselves, that in our retirement we would return.

    Four years later, after retiring from teaching, we went back to Mexico. We spent four months on the shores of Lake Chapala in Mexico, in a beautiful house where we made lots of wonderful friends. The second year we backpacked through Central America from Guatemala to Panama taking a puppet theatre and puppets with us. The third year we focused on learning more about the Mayan culture by spending a month in the Yucatan Peninsula, a month in Guatemala, a month backpacking from San Cristobal, in the Chiapas, up the Pacific coast of Mexico to Puerto Vallarta. Along the way, we had several visits with friends. Finally, we ended up once more in Ajijic on Lake Chapala, where we stayed for a month.

    The fifth year, we felt that we wanted to venture a little further south so we did something a little different. We headed to South America following a three week layover in Guatemala where we spent Christmas and New Year's eve with our daughters and one of our future son-in-laws. We took and distributed 300 pairs of reading glasses, continued to learn Spanish and volunteered for two organizations in needy communities in both Guatemala and Ecuador. We helped to paint a huge mural on the side of a coliseum with artist, Susan Shanley. The highlight of our trip was the creation of a Grand Circus of Puppets which was performed by all the children in a Biblioteca (library), as well as 25 volunteers, in Banos, Ecuador.

    Year Six was a favourite of ours. We spent a month in Peru, three months in Bolivia and then returned to Peru to see Machu Picchu. Because we had enjoyed volunteering in the Arte del Mundo library in Ecuador the previous year, we looked for another library to help out in Bolivia. We were able to find another wonderful, non-profit organization called Biblioworks, based in the capital city of Sucre.

    <a href="http://biblioworks.org/&quot; target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://biblioworks.org/</a&gt;

    The North Carolina group who runs this project provides disadvantaged Bolivian communities, in the vicinity of Sucre, with access to books and learning materials. Since 2005, they have been able to build 12 community libraries, support teachers and students, and put countless books in the hands of adults in both North and South America. The eighth library opened when we were there and we took part in an exciting inauguration with our amazing 'boss' from South Carolina, Matt Lynn. What a wonderful organization.

    Our very good friends, Pat and Gail, who we met in Mexico in 1999/2000, joined us in February and March. Due to the generosity of many of our good Ontario friends, we took down 6 puppets which were used in a puppet show, puppet-making workshop materials (so that 200 children can make simple rod puppets), an educational parachute for games, and 200 pairs of
    reading glasses. Four classes at Greensville Public School, near Dundas, Ontario, prepared artwork which we took to Bolivia as part of an art exchange. Fun!

    The next three years were spent back in Mexico. Year Seven was in Ajijic, helping at the Tepehua Community Centre. A fantastic lady, Moonyeen King, was trying to help out the extremely poor people in this part of Chapala by forming a centre where people could eat a hot meal and have a shower once a week, get medical aid and feel that they were part of a community. We helped out by distributing food, playing with the kids, performed a Xmas puppet show and organized the painting of a huge mural on the side of the building, once again led by artist, Susan Shanley. We also travelled to the beautiful Sierra Gorda where we met two very special people, Margarita and Juan, as well as a traveling group of puppeteers. Two hundred pairs of reading glasses were also distributed.

    Year Eight saw us in Queretaro, Mexico - a beautiful old city, just on the west side of Mexico City. There we studied more Spanish and helped out a young puppeteer, Diego Ugalde. Once again we traveled into the amazing Sierra Gorda and then went north to ride the El Chepe train in the Copper Canyon in Chihuahua.

    Year Nine. Back to Mexico, but this time in a city south of Mexico City, Cuernavaca. We stayed in a lovely house with beautiful gardens, hidden behind high walls. We started this trip by flying to Manzanillo and spending a week on the ocean with our friends, Pat and Gail. Then off to Cuernavaca where they joined us for a week. We flew to Puerto Escondido for Chris' birthday and saw our friend from Panama, Scott, as well as cottage neighbours, Dale and Michelle. We helped out a young artist who was setting up a business in Cuernavaca. From him we learned how to make traditional Papel Piedra dolls. In March, we flew to Los Angeles and did something that we have never done before. We rented an ESCAPE campervan for a month and camped through South California, Arizona, Utah and Nevada. Fabulous!

    Year Ten had a big change... Where did we go, and why? Well, I happened to read a blog entry entitled, "Ten Reasons You Should visit Namibia" by fellow Canadian travelers, Kevin and Ruth, and I was hooked.

    http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog/ladyandtra…

    I easily convinced Chris, and without much effort, in the way of coaxing, enticed our friends, Pat and Gail, to join us in Windhoek, Namibia? We went off on a camping safari trip extraordinaire in Namibia and Botswana! Of course, we took puppets for a travelling puppet show, ukuleles and a parachute to give away to a needy community. Pat and Gail flew home in February and we had a few weeks to kill so flew to Capetown, South Africa, where we rented a car and drove a couple of thousand kilometers along the beautiful Indian Ocean coast staying in guesthouses along the way.

    After that amazing trip, we had to rethink where we would like to spend a winter and we came up with a crazy plan.

    When we were in Ecuador, we heard stories from travellers about the thrill of sailing through the San Blas Islands in Panama and the rugged beauty of Colombia.

    So Year Eleven in 2015, was the year that we saw for ourselves what others have been talking about. But Colombia wasn't the only place we visited. The Yucatan and Cuba were also in the picture!

    President Obama recently made the decision to allow Americans to legally visit Cuba and we know that major changes will take place. We wanted to see the real Cuba before those changes took place. It was an eye-opener.

    So, as we ask ourselves every summer, "Where will we spend our winter this year?".

    We are in good shape, physically, and are still up for some adventure so for Year Twelve in 2016, we decided to go back to Colombia and see some of the beautiful areas that we did not get a chance to see on last year's trip. The difference will be that we will meet up with our good friends Pat and Gail and do some parts of this trip together. Ahhh, more Colombian coffee, birds plus the Amazon and good times with our travelling friends.

    Year Thirteen, 2017. We have missed visiting Mexico but still want to continue heading south in South America. So this year, we will spend a month in Uruguay (and a few days in Buenos Aires) and then fly to Mexico City. We have rented a beautiful house for 3 months in Patzcuaro, Mexico. Dear Texan friends live there. We haven’t seen them for at least ten years. It will be a wonderful reunion. Pat and Gail may also come down for a visit and we hope our daughters will have the time to come down too. (These plans sadly didn’t happen.)

    Year Fourteen, 2018/19. A big change in plans this year. We are heading to Portugal! Not just the mainland, but also to the lovely islands of Madeira and several of the Azore Islands. In fact, our daughters and their families have already bought their plane tickets to Sao Miguel in the Azores and will be joining us during the March Break. What fun we will have!

    NOTE: The blog will be written and left in draft form. The way that you see it, is the way it was written.
    Meer informatie

  • Packing List for 3 Months

    13 december 2018, Canada ⋅ 🌫 0 °C

    Before we go on our longer trips, we have a routine that we follow. We always get our hair cut, get flu shots, then head to the dentist who checks for loose fillings or potential problems. Then a visit to the doctor to get prescriptions for antibiotics for stomach, ear or respiratory issues. Our long-time doctor retired last year and the new replacement doctor won’t do this for us ... hmm.

    It seems that we always pick up a cold about a week into our trip (the flight?) and we are never ready for it, so...I packed Benalyn tablets for day/night and Cepacol Ginger cough candies. We have found that a good night time decongestant or cough suppressant has been hard to find in some countries.

    This year, we want to try something a little different for our plane personal item. Chris will still take his back pack but I bought a packable tote bag. I usually take a small daypack that I rarely use as we already have a good daypack and we really only need one. And we take a packable duffle for laundry and a small foldable bag for groceries. I think that my tote bag can do everything - plane personal item, laundry, groceries, souvenirs, etc.

    From what we have read, the weather in Portugal is best described as “mild but unpredictable. A holiday during the winter could have glorious bright sun but equally it could be wet and grey. In the big cities and coastal resorts, the day time maximum is 10-15C and at night drops to a chilly 3-5C. Rarely does the temperature fall below freezing, the exception is the Serra da Estrela, where the exposed mountains are covered by snow and skiing is popular. The south of the country tends to be drier and warmer than the north. The Algarve will always offer the best weather of Portugal.”

    Conclusion: There is always the chance of poor weather of Portugal, but it will always be significantly much better than back at home.

    Because of the big range in temperatures, we will take clothes that can be layered.

    By the way, just for some interesting information, here is a basic starter list of clothing which just about covers everything:

    Clothes

    2 long sleeved shirts
    2 short sleeved shirts
    2 tank tops (shells) for layering
    1 lightweight sweater, preferably merino, or cashmere
    1 fleece or down vest
    1 pair jeans
    1 pair long pants
    1 pair capri/shorts
    1 pair leggings
    1 skirt/dress
    7 pairs underwear
    3 pairs light socks
    1 pair heavy socks
    3 bras
    pajamas
    bathing suit
    waterproof travel jacket and fleece

    -------Connie's Packing List-----

    Main Pack: eBag TLS Mother Lode Weekender Junior Convertible (3 lb 11 oz)
    Margaret Ann's red ‘Joy' purse #4 in a Travelon Packable Crossbody Tote

    Clothes

    Eagle Creek Pack-It 1/2 Cube #1 - Contents
    1 sleeveless top (green) (light-weight, loose-fitting, quick-dry)
    3 short-sleeved t-shirts (black, grey, green)
    Silk scarf

    Eagle Creek Pack-It 1/2 Cube #2 - Contents
    1 black long sleeved T-shirt
    1 blue thin cardigan sweater
    1 Eddie Bauer skirt

    Eagle Creek Pack-It Cube #3 - Contents
    7 pairs of underwear (Fruit of Loom mesh)
    2 bras (black and beige)
    1 pyjama bottom and long sleeved T-shirt
    2 pairs of light socks
    1 pair of Smartwool hiking socks

    Mesh Bag
    1 2 piece bathing suit - bottom works as short shorts
    Sunhat

    Bottom of Pack

    1 pair of quick-dry hiking pants
    1 pair of black lightweight pants
    1 pair Kuhl capris/shorts (grey)

    In the pack pockets

    Marmot Precip rainshell
    Skechers Gowalk sneakers
    Small gloves
    iPad Air 2 and keyboard
    Toiletries
    Led Flashlight (Mark’s)

    Toiletries in a Toiletry Bag or a Clear Bag

    3 oz of shampoo/conditioner
    Neutrogena moisturizer with SPF 30 sunscreen
    Toothpaste, toothbrush and cap, and floss
    Antiperspirant
    Small bar of soap/soap and container
    Razor and blades
    Finger nail clippers
    Hairbrush
    Tweezers
    Makeup (eye shadow, mascara, blush, eye liner, lipstick)
    Comb/hairbrush
    hair clips,elastics
    Safety Pins, 2 clothespins, rubber bands
    Laundry soap, line and flat stopper

    Wear on plane

    1 grey long-sleeved T-shirt
    1 pair of lightweight jeans
    1 blue Packable down vest (works as a pillow)
    1 light black fleece jacket
    1 pair of compression socks
    Trail shoes ON Cloudventure (new - waterproof)
    Passport pouch - Baggalini Bryant pouch

    Note: I didn’t wear the Skechers shoes but did buy slippers which I wore all the time. The ON shoes were fantastic!


    Personal Item - Packable Travelon Crossbody Tote (new)

    Joy Purse #4
    Small packs of kleenex and a change purse
    Alarm clock
    Luggage combination locks (no keys!) and a few plastic zip tie wraps
    Passport, ID Photocopies of front and back of all cards and page 4 of passport
    Health Insurance cards
    Sunglasses
    Eyeglass prescriptions
    Money (Euros)
    ATM card/VISA cards (Note: 4 digit ATM pin)
    Guidebook and a small map; trip information
    iPad mini


    Other
    Addresses and phone numbers on ipad
    Family and Ontario photos on the ipad
    Mini calendar and small pen
    2 Moleskin books
    Extra Pens/pencils
    Door stopper (for security)
    Ziplock freezer bags
    Airline Tickets
    Italian spices

    ----------------------Chris' Packing List ---------------------

    Main Pack: eBag TLS Mother Lode Weekender Junior Convertible (3 lb 11 oz)
    Day Pack: Onsight 15 L Daypack (1 lb 1oz)

    Clothes

    Eaglecreek Pack-It 1/2 Cube #1 - Contents
    4 short-sleeved Icebreaker Tech T light Tshirts (light weight, loose-fitting, quick-dry)

    Eaglecreek Pack-It 1/2 Cube #2 - Contents
    1 short-sleeved shirt - Columbia
    1 blue plaid long-sleeved shirt

    Eaglecreek Pack-It Cube #3 - Contents
    5 pairs underwear (Saxx)
    1 pair of pyjama bottoms
    4 pairs socks
    Buff
    Small gloves

    Mesh Bag
    Bathing trunks
    Ball cap

    1 pair of black, lightweight Arterex pants
    1 pair of green Arterex quick dry pants
    2 pairs of Kuhl shorts
    Marmot Precip rain jacket
    Haviannas flip flops

    Wear on plane
    1 pair of Levi 541 denim jeans
    1 Belt
    1 Icebreaker t-shirt
    1 black Packable down vest
    1 fleece full zip jacket with zippered pockets
    1 pair of Smartwool socks
    ON Cloudventure Waterproof trail shoes
    Watch
    Passport pouch
    Motorola G5 Plus phone

    Travel Necessities

    Wallet and Change purse
    Luggage combination locks (no keys)
    Passport, ID and Photocopies of fronts and backs of all cards and passport
    Health Insurance card
    Prescription for eyeglasses
    Money/ATM card/VISA card

    Toiletries
    3 oz containers of shampoo/conditioner
    Small packaged hotel soaps were put in Pack-It bags (keep clothes smelling nice)
    Toothpaste, toothbrush and cap, and softpicks
    Antiperspirant
    Razor/blades/tube of shaving creme
    Eye glasses prescription
    Comb/brush

    Other
    Gear organizer bag
    Flash Drive (2/4 gig), Memory Stick (16 gig)
    Mini Anker portable battery charger
    Sony mini bluetooth speaker (love it!)
    Cables
    Earphones

    Personal Backpack

    Small First Aid kit (with only a few of each of the following) - Tylenol, Ibuprofin, Aspirin, Peptobismol, Gravol (Dramadine), Imodium, Hydrocortizone, Bandaids, Chapstick, Alcohol Prep Pads, Polysporin, Eye drops, Ear drops, Vaseline, Benadryl night, Sudafed, Cepacol lozenges, allergy pills, Magnesium for sleep, Small Sewing kit and Eyeglasses screwdriver

    LED flashlight
    iPad mini
    Pen/pencil
    Snacks - Coconut chips, nuts, chocolate
    Meer informatie

  • Our Projected Itinerary

    14 december 2018, Canada ⋅ 🌧 1 °C

    This year, we are heading in a different direction - east to Portugal. The plan is to spend 9 weeks on the mainland and another 3 weeks visiting Portugal’s islands of Madeira and the Azores. Every week, we will be in a different town or city. Our friend, Donna, who lives in Elora will be joining us for a week in the Algarve and a little later for a week in Evora which is in central Portugal. We are hoping that another old friend of ours, Vaughan, will take time from his trip to Germany to visit us in Porto. The icing on the cake is that our daughters and their families will meet up with us during the March Break in Sao Miguel in the Azores.

    Why Portugal? Years ago when our youngest daughter was involved with a performing group called Up With People, she came home from a year’s worth of travelling and performing and told us that Portugal was her favourite country. Well, that was 20 years ago and we still remember how excited she became when talking about it. Her enthusiasm stuck with us and now we are going to find out what created all that excitement.

    We do know that there are lots of pluses to visiting Portugal. First of all the history, followed by the nature and the people and culture. We have read about whales and dolphins, caves, hot springs, beautiful beaches and the mountains. Fairytale palaces and old castles as well as the Harry Potter connection intrigue us. Then comes the wine and the food, especially the pastel de nata. How can we forget the Fado music in Lisbon and Porto. And finally, from what we have read, Portugal is a tranquil and peaceful country where it is still inexpensive to travel.

    Anyone who has already travelled to Portugal, loved it so ... that’s why we are going there.

    Here is our plan so far. We will fly from Toronto to Lisbon and then on to Faro on December 27 with TAP airlines. At the airport, we will rent a car from Luzcar for 2 out of our 3 weeks in the Algarve.

    December 28 - TAVIRA - Apartamento no Coracoa de Tavira (Rita) - Air Bnb

    January 4 - LAGOS - Lagos Uptown B & B (Fernando) - Booking.com
    - we will be meeting Donna who will spend one night in our Bnb and then move on to a beach resort for a week
    - at the end of our stay here, we will return the rental car.

    January 11 - FARO - Sunlight House (Telmo) - Booking.com

    January 18 - EVORA - Evora Inn (Diana) - Booking.com
    - we will be meeting up with Donna here and possibly renting a car with her.

    January 25 - T.B.A. TRAVEL WEEK - Evora to Douro Valley

    Jan. 25 - Jan 28 - in the area of CASTELO BRANCO
    Feb. 3 - Jan. 31 - in the area of GUARDA
    Jan. 31 - Feb 3 - in the area of VISEU

    February 3 - LAMEGO - Apartamento da Serra em Lamego (Manuela) Air Bnb

    February 10 - PORTO - Feel Porto Historical Flats (Ana)

    February 18 - T.B.A. TRAVEL WEEK - Porto to SIntra

    Feb. 18 - in the area of AVEIRO
    Feb. 20 - in the area of COIMBRA
    Feb. 22 - TOMAR - Tomar Story Hotel (. )- Booking.com

    February 25 - SINTRA - Cinco BnB (Carole and Stuart) - private booking
    - we may meet up with our friend,Vaughan, here


    March 1 - LISBON - LX4U Apartment’s - Expedia.ca
    - Carnival weekend

    March 3 - fly to FUNCHAL, MADEIRA ISLAND on Easy Jet

    March 3 - CANECO - Oceanic Apartment ( Dulce) - Air BnB
    - Carnival continues

    March 9 - fly to PONTA DELGADA, SAO MIGUEL, AZORES on Santa airlines

    March 9 - PONTA DELGADA - Hotel Alcedes - Booking.com
    - one night here and will meet Amy, Matt, Audrey, Nathan, Caitlin, Cal and possibly Tim on Mar. 10 (6:30 a.m.)

    March 10 - LAGOA - Atlantic House (Manuel) - Booking.com

    March 16 - T.B.A fly to FAIAL ISLAND (or stay on Sao Miguel)

    March 16 - T.B.A TRAVEL WEEK - Faial, Pico and Sao Jorge Islands

    Mar. 16 - Horta Faial Island
    Mar. 18 - Madalena, Pico Island
    Mar. 21 - Velas, Sao Jorge Island
    Mar. 23 - Horta, Faial

    March 24 - fly to LISBON

    March 24 - April 1 - LISBON - Belvedere Interdente Balcony Apartment - (. ) - Air BnB

    April 1 - fly to TORONTO
    Meer informatie

  • The Adventure Begins

    28 december 2018, Canada ⋅ 🌧 3 °C

    Well, here we are once again in the Toronto International Airport, ready to head to Europe.

    At 3 p.m., I downloaded our boarding passes.

    We left our condo in Fergus at 4:30 p.m.

    At 5 p.m.,we were eating pizza at Amy’s house in Guelph and watching the kids opening their gifts to each other.

    At 7 p.m., Red Car promptly pulled up and whisked the two of us to the airport. We were the only passengers.

    Shortly after 8 p.m., we arrived at the airport, went through the inspection and by 8:30 p.m. we were settled and waiting in E70 for our 10:20 p.m. boarding on TAP airlines.

    How easy was that?

    Now I have a little bit of time to play with this blog site.
    I can write this blog offline but Wifi in the airport is free so I am writing online.

    No photos. Airports are all the same... or are they?

    A Spanish newspaper had this to say about the airport:

    “Desperate queues and shambolic scenes at Lisbon airport over the festive season have prompted Spanish daily paper El País to say the capital’s overworked airport should be renamed “chaos”.”

    And it was!
    Meer informatie

  • To Tavira

    28 december 2018, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We landed in Lisbon at around 10:30 a.m. The flight was okay, but sleeping on the plane wasn’t that great. It was cold! The air blowing down from the ceiling was bothersome. We took the blanket that was given to us and draped it over our heads for the night. Brrr. A warm scarf or hat would have helped.

    A meal was served at midnight but few people ate it. In the morning, we were served ham sandwiches but it was too early for us to eat so we passed on that. In hindsight, I should have brought some egg salad sandwiches and fruit.

    Going through the Lisbon immigration line was something else. There were hundreds of people and we moved in a Disneyland style line to get to the front. I think that took us about an hour. Back and forth. Back and forth in a moving line.

    Now we had to wait for the connecting flight. It was fairly warm and the sun was shining through the windows so it wasn’t all that bad.

    At 3 we caught the flight to Faro and arrived by 4 p.m. it is a tiny airport so it was easy to find our way out.

    We had heard that we could get a Vodophone chip for our phone a the airport and we easily found their kiosk. The girl was helpful and we paid €20 for 5 mg data and local and long distance calls. A good deal.

    Walking out into the sun and 18C weather was great. Ahhhh. Almost to our destination.

    We picked up our 2 week rental car at the Luzcar kiosk. It was all pretty easy and straightforward as everyone spoke English. They gave us a toll monitor which tracks any road tolls that we may encounter. We set it up with €15 to start.

    Then we filled up at a local gas station. The tank was empty. Why they do this, we will never know.

    Our 31 km drive from the Faro airport to Tavira was an easy one. Not like the 401 in Toronto at all. It was a little country road with careful drivers that wandered through fields of carob and almond trees. Our google maps app brought right to our apartment in less than 1/2 hour. It was great.

    Tavira is a small town of 26,100 people. Our apartment is perfectly located in the historical area close to a seven-arched Roman bridge that crosses a river with two names (Gilao and Segua) depending on which side of the bridge the river is on. Why two names? We read a legend about two lovers, one Roman and one Muslim, who would meet secretly. One night, they were caught on the bridge by members of their armies and knowing that the consequences of their tryst would not be good, they decided to jump into the river to their deaths. He jumped on one side and she jumped on the other. Thus the two names of the river.

    During the Moorish era (10-12th century) Tavira was an important defensive and fortified town, and the castle and ancient city walls date from this period. Later, in the 17th century Tavira was the largest port of the Algarve and the grand mansions, funded by the trade wealth, were constructed close to the river. Along with all of the historic buildings, there are over 36 churches, a series of scenic viewpoints and a lively daily market. Tavira may be relatively small, but it is full of character and is a pleasure to walk around.

    Our apartment is very sweet - a one bedroom apartment on the second floor of a row of houses. It has everything that we need including a t.v., microwave, washing machine and an expresso maker. The sun pours into the apartment all day and when we open the doors to the bougainvillea covered balcony, we can watch the daily happenings on the walking street below. It is very peaceful and relaxed here. What a great find in a wonderful location.

    The building is very traditional - whited-washed walls with a tile roof. We have two decorative wrought-iron balconies which are topped with pine cone finials. The doors on the street are all different colours and are adorned with fretwork. Our door is green.

    Once we settled in a bit, we walked across the street to a small restaurant called Tonel and had a lovely dinner of an bread, olives and tuna appetizer, green salads, main courses of sea bass and steak, and big glasses of wine. That was the best way to end our travelling day.

    We were thrilled with the comfort of our bed and enjoyed a great sleep on our first night in Portugal.
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  • Praia do Barril Trail

    30 december 2018, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    On Saturday, our first day in Tavira, Chris woke up with a nasty cold. We also were somewhat jet-lagged so we just took it easy and tried to get used to our surroundings. As I mentioned it is a lovely little town.

    We did walk across the Roman Bridge though and had a coffee and pastry in a little cafe. Then walked around the square and through a pretty park. We bought some roasted chestnuts from a street vendor and then walked back over another bridge. We found a Pingo Doce grocery store and enjoyed trying to figure out what we wanted to stock the fridge with at the apartment. We are in Tavira for a week. Roast chicken, cheese, salami, salad stuff, wine, granola, milk, yogurt, eggs and coffee were good starters.

    The rest of the day was low key as Chris struggled a bit with his cold.

    But on Sunday, we were ready for a walk. We had heard about a nice trail though a salt marsh in the neighbouring town of Santa Lucia. We drove the car to the trail head and joined several others who were out walking their dogs or jogging.

    The trail starts on a beach, then crosses a bridge and passes through an extensive salt marsh area to sand dunes and former fishermen’s huts, now converted into beach facilities and a restaurant/tuna museum.

    Anyone who didn’t want to walk on the trail could take a little train to the beach and back. The kids really seemed to like the ride. We walked beside the tracks.

    This is an interesting trail for observing water birds such as flamingoes, egrets, terns, herons, cormorants and plovers in the salt marsh and watching the fiddler crabs, particularly at low tide.

    When were there, the area was really like a giant mudflat. There were areas of sea rushes and apparently the curry plant grows here.

    On arriving at the huge beach, the trail divides into two: to the right, there is a protected area and to the left, there is an “anchor cemetery”.

    No one knows who placed the first of the hundreds of rusted anchors along the sand dunes on this beach. But locals continued adding the gnarled weights to honor the small tuna fishing community that once flourished in the area.

    The anchors were used to weigh down the nets for catching tuna. They’re lined up in rows and exist without any real pomp or officiality. Fishing in the area was a dangerous and difficult profession, but these waters, where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean, were filled with bluefin tuna. The technique for catching them was unique to the area, and was probably invented by the ancient Romans who lived in the area.

    The Algarve thrived on tuna fishing for centuries, but local fisherman had to give up their occupation in the 1960s when the numbers of fish declined. Their anchors were just left on the beach to rust—until someone came up with the artistic idea of creating a cemetery for anchors.

    The beach is huge. We imagine that in the summer it is packed with sun bathers but when we were there, only a few brave souls found chairs to lounge on and were soaking up the sun in the cold wind. We spent some time on the beach watching the fishermen and the big waves and then had a coffee in the old housing. We also looked at all the old photographs in the restaurant showing how the fishermen caught the tuna using a labyrinth of nets. It was fascinating.

    Then the walk back to the car and home we went.
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  • Tavira - Preparing for New Year's Eve

    31 december 2018, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Chris spent the night coughing so we are taking it easy and only doing a little bit of exploring in the morning.

    Today is New Year’s eve and the town is busy preparing for the night’s festivities. Fireworks are being set up on the bridge and along the river’s edge, restaurants are busy preparing meals and a huge stage is being set up on the other side of the river in the main square. It is a glorious, sunny day and people are wandering around enjoying the day. So were we for a few hours.

    We went up to see the old remains of the Tavira castle and fortress and to see the view from the top of the towers. The castle dates from the Moorish rule of Portugal in the 11th century. Tavira was conquered by the Christian crusaders in 1242 and the castle was at the forefront of the fighting. The remaining part of the castle is a the partially ruined fortress that once guarded the fishing town from North African raiders and pirates. It is right in the historic centre of the town and is located at the highest point of the region and from the battlements there are wonderful views over the town and the surrounding national park. We were able to climb up and down all sorts of steeps stairs and wander through its well kept gardens. It was a peaceful place to visit.

    We spent the afternoon sitting in the sun on our apartment’s balcony, people watching. Tonight will be a big night for us, out on the town.
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  • New Years Eve - Tavira's Transformation

    1 januari 2019, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Up until now, we have thought that a Tavira was a sleepy little town. It may be sleepy but on New Year’s Eve, it transforms into a wonderland of sparkly lights, music, fireworks and families ready to celebrate the beginning of a new year on the banks of the river. Magical!

    During the day, Chris and I wandered the streets and watched as a giant stage was put up in the Centro and fireworks were set up on the bridge. Restaurants prepared for a busy night.

    We thought that we would pass on staying up until midnight (party poopers) and went to bed after drinking some wine and eating a Portuguese Bbq chicken, salad and pastel da nata.

    But ... at 11 p.m., we were awakened by 10 seconds of booming fireworks! The town, including us, was being summoned to the midnight activities. Great idea.

    We dressed up warmly and headed the one block down an alley to the river where we saw our first view of the town’s transformation.

    Thousands of people with their kids lined the river’s edge which was lit with Christmas lights. So pretty. Across the river, a band played and colourful lights flashed. It was pretty civil, no silly drunks running around. Just people holding their champagne glasses and bottles waiting for midnight and chatting with friends a family - a really nice atmosphere.

    A countdown started on the screen on the big stage and then ... the amazing fireworks set to music started and champagne drunk. Wow!

    We walked the sort distance home and as we were unlocking our door, we wished the family next door, in our best Portuguese, Feliz Ano Novo (Happy New Year). They laughed and invited us into their house for a midnight traditional meal. They all spoke some English and several family members were teachers. They were happy to answer our many questions about life in Portugal and give us suggestions about what to see and do.

    We ended up having a wonderful time, eating chorizo, giant shrimp, sausage, olives, cheese, etc. followed by mango and pineapple slices and Portuguese pastries (sonhos, sugared orange peel, empanadas). All traditional Portuguese foods and red wine. Lucky us.

    We were so happy that we didn’t stay in. It was a special night and a great start to 2019!
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  • Cacela Velha Fortress

    1 januari 2019, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The morning after the big night... We briefly saw our first clouds today and as it promised to be a warm and sunny day, we decided to jump into the car and go to an old village called Cacela Velha.

    As we drove on the road towards Spain, we were pleasantly surprised by the changes in the countryside. Low rolling hills with pine trees. Then orchards of orange trees full of ripening fruit. As we got closer to the village, we saw fields of flowers and flowering trees.

    During the 10th century, a castle and Islamic town were built on the site of Cacela Velha. Archeologists figure that it was an agricultural centre that was also used as a stopover for Greek and Phoenician navigators.

    The current structure, that consists of a church, priest’s house and a few other buildings within a fortress was built between 1770 and 1794.

    The views from the village were lovely. We walked down a set of stairs to the beach and just enjoyed being in the sun by the sea while watching the sea birds do what seabirds do.

    The beach on the sandspit below the village has been rated as one of the best in the world. To get to it, you have to take a little ferry from a place called Fabrica, which we didn’t do.

    I included a photo of an Algarve fly screen. A series of ribbons hang down in doorways to repel flies. We will have to try that on our little trailer doorway. I wonder if it works for mosquitoes...
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  • Walk to the Market

    2 januari 2019, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We started out a little late. Fish markets open early here and by the time that we sauntered into the market, most of the stalls were covered up and closed. But we had a lovely walk in the sun and were able to buy two avocados there.

    As you probably have noticed, the river goes through the centre of town and people gather on both banks, sit in tiny outdoor cafes and drink coffee while eating their breakfast pastries in the early sun. We joined them and had Galaos ( 1/2 coffee and 1/2 milk) while people watching. We really like the quietness and calmness here. It’s like drinking chamomile tea. Quiet and calming. We noticed that Portuguese drivers don’t honk their horns impatiently or drive fast and always stop for pedestrians who are crossing the road.

    Today the teachers go back to school (not the kids) and we saw several teachers heading to work carrying their books and dressed for work.

    We have been on the lookout for nesting storks. We haven’t seen any yet but we are checking the tops of buildings.

    We did see a large dredging boat working today, pulling up silt from the river. It is a clean river that goes up and down with the tides as it flows to the ocean.

    Most of the houses here are white, or tiled in white and blue, and they stand out against the brilliant blue skies. It seems like there is a lot of renovation going on in the town. Our apartment was in a very old building that had been renovated and divided into four apartments.

    We are starting to see stores that are selling articles made from cork. The shoes and purses look amazing. When we head into the cork forests, I am sure that I will be motivated to write a blog about cork harvesting. Haha.

    Right now, we are going to sit in the sun for a bit and make plans for the afternoon.
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  • Cabanas

    2 januari 2019, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Just outside of Tavira, is a town called Cabanas, which once was a fishing village made up of cabanas or cabins where the fishermen kept their tackle and gear. Now it is a tourist area with condos, hotels and restaurants. We kept seeing signs to it so we decided to see why it was so popular.

    I ‘borrowed’ an aerial photo of the area to gave it some perspective. From the ground, it doesn’t look very impressive. You can see the 7 km sand-spit/island that has an amazing beach. To get to the island, you have to take a water taxi.

    Also, you can see an old star- shaped fort that has been made into a hotel. What you can’t see are all the condos to the right of the photo. It is winter now so the town is fairly empty and seafood restaurants are mostly closed, but we can imagine that in the summer it is a hopping place with the beach so close by.

    We drove to Cabanas on some very narrow lanes through orange orchards and farm fields. When we got to the fort, we parked and got out and walked on a long boardwalk beside the waterway. The sun was shining and it was very peaceful and quiet.

    We drive home and walked to a well-spoken-of tapas restaurant that is close by called No de Gosto. Delicious food, a homey atmosphere and wonderful service! Our friend Donna will have to go there when she goes to Tavira!

    We met a Swedish couple there who have a holiday home in Cabanas and we ended up having a wonderful conversation about Portugal with them. It was an interesting night.

    A little note...the lady next door to us heard Chris coughing and brought him a jar of honey to add to his tea. So far, Portuguese people have been living up to their reputation as kind and caring people!
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  • Last Full Day in Tavira

    3 januari 2019, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Across the river from where we are staying, is the location of the old walled city. A few days ago, we went to the remains of the castle through old city walls, but we didn’t realized that there was a lot more to see on that Santa Maria Hill. We headed out today to visit the old water tower that houses a camera obscura (pin hole camera) with a revolving lens that projects telescopic images of the town below onto a large concave screen. Unfortunately, it was not open but ...

    We decided to explore the old town further and we discovered a fair bit in a small area.

    From river level, we could see a very large building with a gallery or covered veranda running all around it. Well, that 16th century building is called The Palace of Galleries and now houses the Municipal Museum of Tavira. The museum has revolving art exhibitions, but it also houses a permanent collection of regional artifacts, including pieces from Phoenician origin, Islamic sacred art, and medieval implements form the Algarve. Under the building archaeologists have discovered circular wells which were dug by the phoenicians between 800 and 600 B.C. We could stand on a glass floor and see the wells and tunnels. Very cool.

    We continued to wander the streets and came upon the white Church of Misericordia. We weren’t sure what that meant but went in.

    We paid a couple of euros for a ticket to visit the small museum which houses some paintings of the Holy family as well as informative panels explaining the history of the building and the importance of its role in the history of the city. Then the curator whisked us to the base of the bell tower where we climbed the steep circular steps to the belfry. We hoping that the bells weren’t going to ring when we were there! The views were great!

    As soon as we got to the base, the curator found us again and led us into the church. Nothing quite prepared us for the stunning interior of the church. It’s not very big but the blue tile (azulejos) frescos were amazing and the carved gold high altar was magnificent.

    Apparently the church was built between 1541 and 1561 for aiding the poor and sick people following the Black Plague. I think that the frescoes on the walls illustrate the 18 physical and emotional ‘works of mercy’ people can do to aid the poor people.

    Lots of hidden gems in Tavira! It is a old town with a long history.
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  • On to Lagos with a Stop in Loule

    4 januari 2019, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We have made the move to Lagos, still in the Algarve, but on the west side. Tavira was on the east side near the border with Spain.

    When we first arrived in Faro, we rented a car at the airport through a small company called Luzcar and it has been very handy. We packed it up and drove the hilly 115 km to Lagos, on the toll highway, with a stop in Loule for lunch.

    After reading about this little town, we were motivated to visit it. We read that it is “a likeable town that offers fascinating tourist attractions, a traditional Portuguese Saturday market, and a delightful historic centre. It is one of the few destinations in the Algarve whose primary focus is not tourism; it is a town full of ordinary Portuguese going about their daily lives.” That sounded nice.

    Today is Friday so the market was not in full force but we were able to visit it and have a coffee and a piece of Dutch apple pie with whipping cream in a tiny cafe.

    Then on to Lagos. Another 50 minutes.

    Our google maps app took us right to our hotel. The app has been great as many of the streets here are one way, narrow and the street names often are nowhere to be seen.

    Our hotel, Lagos Uptown BnB, is in a good location just outside the old city walls. Everywhere we would want to go in town is no farther than a 10 - 15 minute walk. On the top of the building there is a wonderful common room and outside terrace that overlooks the old town and the ocean. It is heated in the evenings with a pellet stove. Really cozy.

    Our friend Donna from Elora was due to arrive by train from Lisbon at 9 p.m. we had arranged to pick her up but she arrived on an earlier train and took a taxi to our hotel. We were pleasantly surprised to see her. What fun! We walked to a local pizzeria, ate a delicious French pizza and drank sangria, while getting caught up on trip details.

    Then off to bed after making a few plans for the next day.
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  • Lagos and Donna

    5 januari 2019, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    So, after 4 months of our talks of travel to Europe, Donna and the two of us have hooked up in Portugal. She is an experienced traveller so we know that we will have an easy and fun time with her.

    Chris is still suffering from a bad cough, especially at night, and decided that the over-the-counter cough syrups and lozenges just weren’t doing enough. He needed to see a doctor to get a prescription for an antibiotic.

    After a good breakfast in the upstairs lounge overlooking the ocean and the old town, Chris walked to the nearby hospital and Donna and I walked to the Saturday fruit, vegetable and fish market down by the marina. It was great - lots of organic foods, grown in the surrounding countryside, as well as honeys, baked goods and homemade jams and jellies. Just look at the giant tomato I am holding!

    We returned back to the BnB and saw that Chris had just returned. He had ampicillin for bronchitis and something to relax his throat while sleeping. We are looking forward to our first good night’s sleep in Portugal, without any coughing.

    Donna needed to pick up her rental car before heading to her time share at the Belmar Resort so we drove her the short distance down to Luzcar. Once all was settled, we all drove out to see the resort. What a place! Pretty posh. Lovely. She will have a great week.

    We had packed a picnic lunch with white wine so we sat on her patio, enjoying the sun and the food.

    We spent the late afternoon resting and just let the medicine get established. Later we were able to watch a Jack Reacher movie. Haha.
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  • Ponta de Piedade - Our Walk on the Cliff

    6 januari 2019, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Chris finally is on the mend and we had a decent sleep. Yay!

    Fernando, our host, suggested a great walk on a boardwalk on top of the seaside cliffs just to the west of Lagos. The boardwalk was fairly new and led to a group of rock formations forming yellow-golden cliffs around 20 meters high. Almost every Portugal brochure has a photo of these beautiful caves, grottos and sea arches and we were excited to see them.

    We drove to the Belmar resort, picked up Donna, then on to a little parking spot where the boardwalk started. It was a glorious day and the views of the ocean and the cliffs were something else. As we walked, we found it easy to step off the boardwalk onto old trails that went close to the edge of the cliffs. There were several danger signs that mentioned the instability of the sand cliffs and we had to be careful that we didn’t go too close. It was a steep drop to the ocean!

    After walking about 2 km, we got to the little Lagos lighthouse and saw a set of stairs with 192 steps that would take us to the sea level. Down, down, down we went, into an amazing eroded ‘hole’, Ponte de Piedade. The rock formation and the water rushing in and out of smaller holes on the sides of the hole made for an exciting and noisy walk.

    Hundreds of birds live in little holes on the sides of the cliffs and it looked like they were preparing their nests - flying in and out. When we got close enough to identify the birds, we realized that they were pigeons, maybe rock pigeons?

    We had heard that the best way to appreciate the beauty of Ponta de Piedade is from the sea. We couldn’t imagine that anything could more beautiful than the walk on the cliffs. But now that we were at sea level, we were curious and an opportunity (that I will talk about in the next footprint) presented itself.
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  • The View from Below

    6 januari 2019, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We made it to the bottom of the 192 stairs, while oohing and ahhing all the way down and we saw that a little fisherman’s boat was attempting to dock beside a rock ledge. The waves kept pushing it in and out. A couple, who were smiling from ear to ear, jumped out and raved about their experience going with the fishermen into the caves and grottos. They told us that we would love it.

    We decided to grab the opportunity, and quickly and carefully jumped into the rocking boat. That was the beginning of our mini adventure.

    There are numerous boats trips available from Lagos that will take you around the rock pillars, through the natural tunnels and into the grottoes around Ponta da Piedade, but most of the boats are fairly big and can’t fit in the caves. We were in a small boat, and by bending our heads, were able to fit under the arches of the sea caves. How cool!

    The water is wonderfully clear and the bright sunshine filtered through the holes and fissures in the rocks and reflected off the water. It was beautiful.

    The fisherman showed us his catch of fish and octopus and told us the names of many of the formations - the camel, the gorilla, the Titanic, the Sphinx, etc.

    He said that he loved his job and we could tell.
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  • To the End of the World ...

    7 januari 2019, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Yesterday, after our walk to the Ponta da Piedade, we went back to Donna’s hotel for a charcuterie board lunch consisting of a variety of Portuguese meats, cheeses, fruit and nuts. Then a refreshing cup of tea. Yum!

    We talked about our plans for the next day and decided it was time for us to go to Sagres and Cabo Sao Vicente, which before the 15th Century was known as ‘the end of the world’. It was believed that sea monsters lived just out of sight, a little beyond the horizon, before the earth dropped off into a terrible black hole.

    Of course, our wonderful host, Fernando, gave us lots of tips and suggestions. He has a wealth of information

    From Lagos to the Cape through Sagres was about 30 km. Not far and on a good road.

    We stopped for a few minutes and watched surfers on a beach way down below. It would be quite the trek for them going down and then back up all the stairs from the top of the cliffs to the sea with a surfboard. But I guess, they felt it was worth it.

    The land on the cape was rocky and barren. We were lucky that we went there on a day with little wind. We had taken jackets anticipating a strong wind but we didn’t need them. Before we left, the three of us bought ON Cloudventure trail shoes. We have loved wearing them. They were the perfect shoes for the rough and rocky ground at the cape! We took photos of our shoes that travelled to ‘the end of the world’ and sent it to the store in Fergus where we bought them, as requested. Haha.

    The Romans called Cape St Vincent ‘Promontorium Sacrum’ (or Holy Promontory) and believed the sun sank here. They would come to listen to it hissing into the ocean as it was extinguished and watch it bleeding into the water. They considered it a magical place where the sunset was much larger than anywhere else.

    There is just so much history in this area. The present lighthouse that is at the tip of the cape is 24 metres (79 ft) high and was built over the ruins of a 16th-century Franciscan convent in 1846. It has a powerful light that can be seen 60 km away. The cliffs all around are 60 m. high. The Portuguese don’t put guards or rails around dangerous areas as they expect people to be smart. The drop off to the ocean is something else, as you can see from the photos. Awesome!

    We were a little disappointed that we couldn’t see the little museum in the lighthouse. Apparently it is only open on Wednesdays.
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  • And Back ...

    7 januari 2019, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Upon leaving the San Vicente Cape, we drove the 6 km to Sagres to see the big fort that was there. On the way, we passed another small fort called Beliche that has been around since at least the 1500, if not longer. In 1578, Francis Drake attacked the fort and caused serious damage to it. It had a lot of reconstruction work done to it and was not completed until 1632. Then, it was significantly damaged by the big 1755 earthquake in Portugal. Now it is sitting precariously on a crumbling cliff and has been closed to the public for safety reasons. We were just able to wander on part of the grounds surrounding the fortress.

    Now the Sagres fortress was completely different. It was huge and imposing, with a very rocky, harsh landscape. The views over the sheer cliffs were breath-taking, and we could see all along the coast to Cabo de São Vicente. Fishermen with long poles, stood on little ledges, leaned over the cliffs and cast their lines way down into the ocean. Pretty scary. They fish for a small fish called sardos, breem, and haul the fish up in a basket.

    According to legend, this is where Prince Henry the Navigator established his navigation school and prepared the early Portuguese explorers for trips out to sea.

    Inside the gate there is a huge, curious stone pattern that measures 43m in diameter. A sign said that it is called the Rosa Dos Ventos. This strange configuration is believed to be a mariner’s compass or a sundial of sorts. It was excavated in 1921 and no one really knows what it was used for.

    We peeked into a small, whitewashed, 16th-century Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Graça. Inside there was a gilded 17th-century altarpiece. I especially liked the tiled altar panels which feature elephants and antelopes. I wonder why they were put on a church altar...

    No museum here either, just a few plaques with information in several languages.

    By now, we were hungry. Fernando had recommended a good fish restaurant in Carrapateira but it was closed for holidays. Darn. We actually drove around looking for a restaurant but without luck so we stopped in a little place that served tapa-type food, outside, and we were able to share big plates of octopus salad, barnacles and fried prawns with Portuguese bread and beer for a reasonable price. We even got lessons in how to eat the barnacles and shrimp. Everything was tasty!

    Then, home again, home again, jig a jig jig.
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  • Walking Within Lagos' Old City Walls

    8 januari 2019, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Last Fall, we booked a room at the Lagos Uptown BnB after reading some good reviews about its good location, cleanliness, wifi, a great breakfast on a rooftop terrace, a reasonable price and its wonderful smiling host, Fernando. Well, we have enjoyed our stay here so much, that we have extended it by 3 days. Donna is only a 4 minute drive away. Perfect!

    Due to renting a car from a Lagos company, Luzcar, we have been able to explore several lovely places with ease, and Google Maps has been very helpful. We had picked it up from the airport in Faro and will return it here in Lagos before our short stay in Faro.

    Today, we decided to walk through the historic centre of Lagos. The walls and churches can be seen from our terrace at the BnB, but the winding narrow streets are hidden from our view.

    Lagos’ history is strongly linked to Henry the Navigator who lived from 1394-1460. The town was an important naval center, a boatbuilding hub that supplied the caravels that started Portugal's ‘golden Age of Discovery’ in the 15th century. We visited Henry's fabled school of navigation a few days ago, that was based at Sagres, 40 kilometers west of here.

    Disaster struck on November 1, 1755, with a huge earthquake whose epicentre was reported to have been 200km southwest of the country and registered 9 on the Richter Scale. The coastal areas of the Algarve were devastated by the earthquake and subsequent tsunami. Fernando told us that it wasn’t the earthquake that did all the damage. It was the tsunami. Many people ran from the city when the earthquake struck and were killed on the beach when the wave came just a short time afterwards.

    The old city of Lagos is surrounded by a historic stone wall that is about 1.5 km long. Donna drove here and we entered, from the back of town, through an arched entry hole in the wall. From there we wandered around the winding narrow back streets while checking out the old architecture and entering some very nice little shops.

    In the Gil Eannes Plaza, we were able to get a little information about Lagos in the tourist office. The lady mentioned that there was a free exhibit next door outlining the history of the thousands of Christians who were taken hostage by privateers (pirates protected by the government) who made a profit from the ransoms. The exhibit explained the role that a religious group, The Order of the Most Holy Trinity, had, in going on expeditions to negotiate a fair price, depending on social status and jobs, to free the captives.

    In the plaza, there is a very unusual statue of King Sebastian, the 16th-century boy-king (he became king at the age of three). A very misguided attack on Morocco in 1578 resulted in the 24-year-old king’s death, along with 8000 of his troops, including most of the male line of the Portuguese royal family. This ultimately resulted in Portugal losing its independence to Spain for 60 years. A myth developed around Sebastian based on an idea that he wasn’t really dead and would one day return to rule Portugal. The statue sculpted in the early 1970s, looks like a cross between a spaceman and a tartar. Very odd.

    In the old town, there is the site of Europe's first slave market opened in 1444, selling slaves that were captured in, and transported from Africa. The white building with arches that houses a museum was built in 1691 and served as a customs office. Abandoned for many years, the small gallery now hosts a permanent exhibition explaining Portugal's shameful trade in human cargo, and the role that Lagos played. Displays included confiscated personal possessions and a skeleton of one of the poor individuals, unearthed nearby.

    We went into two very old churches. The second church, Santo Antonio, blew us away! We were not allowed to take pictured of its amazing interior but we found a postcard of the inside and took a photo of that. This small church is a National Monument. There is not a spot in that church that hasn’t been carved, painted, or tiled. Lots of oohs and aaahs here! There were several interesting stories of the ministry of St. Anthony in plaques around the inside, often accompanying paintings of the story. All the carvings were gilded so gold was everywhere. What a place!
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  • Algarve's highest point, Foia, Monchique

    9 januari 2019, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Today started out as a cloudless day, so Fernando suggested that it would be a great day to plan a day trip to the highest mountain in the Algarve, Foia. It is 902 m high and part of the Serra de Monchique range. The views from the top are supposed to be spectacular. Supposedly on a clear day you can see Cape St. Vincent and the Atlantic Ocean in the west, Faro in the east, and the Serra da Arrabida, near Lisbon, to the north.

    We picked up a Donna at 10 and within a few minutes, we were out of Lagos and into the rolling countryside filled with orange trees and farms.

    Soon we saw forests of eucalyptus and pine trees. Eucalyptus was brought to Portugal from Australia in the 1800s. It is a fast growing and invasive tree that has replaced many of the oak trees that originally dominated this area. The Portuguese use eucalyptus to produce pulp and paper as the trees can be harvested in a short period of time.

    Forest fires love this tree. The oil produced by the trees, combined with the litter created by the falling bark makes eucalyptus forests a serious fire hazard. In August of last year, a huge fire started in the mountains and couldn’t be controlled. We saw evidence of its path almost everywhere we went on this trip, as well as new eucalyptus trees starting to grow from the base of their parent trees.

    We continued on a road past a picturesque dam to the small village of Marmelite. Marmelete is a main supplier of cork, as well as a producer of Black pork. We noticed that there were many beehives in the hills around the town and little stores sold jars of honey and wax.

    We drove along a valley, where old-looking agricultural terraces could be seen, and animals were grazing. We passed a huge marble quarry with giant blocks of rock and arrived in the town of Monchique.

    To get to the top of Mount Foia, we had to follow a curvy road with several scenic lookouts. Chestnut trees, maritime pines and cork oak trees lined the road as we continued our way up to the top.

    Finally, we reached the summit and what a view we had. A 360 degree beautiful vista, and clean air. There are various military communication installations making some of the area around the summit of Fóia 'out of bounds' but the area is quite large and we were able to explore the summit a bit. Chris and I just had to climb a big rock pile there, while Donna took a few photos.

    A womens’ handicraft co-op was open and it was full of beautiful Portuguese treasures. It is too bad that packing light doesn’t allow for any big purchases. The crafts were lovely.

    Once we had our fill of being at the top we headed back down to a cliff side restaurant that Fernando had recommended, Luar da Foia, where we ate a house specialty of homemade grilled black pork and mashed potatoes with Super Bock beer while admiring the fantastic views over the mountains.

    Once we ate, we decided to head to the fortress town of Silves but a good opportunity presented itself in the form of a surprise park just outside of Monchique - Parque da Mina.
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  • Parque da Mina, Mine Park

    9 januari 2019, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I am grumbling somewhat as I write this, as I have already written and published a footprint about the lovely mine park and after pushing the wrong button, lost everything that I had written! Oh well, I won’t be pushing any new bottoms on the screen this time!

    After driving to the top of Mount Foia and having a lovely lunch in Monchique, we felt that we still had time to drive the short distance to the former capital of the Algarve called Silves, but ... on the way, in the Valley of the Bull, we saw a sign for Parque da Mina inviting us in. It piqued our curiosity so we turned in and followed the road a short distance to a parking lot. We had been tempted. Needless to say, we never made it to Silves!

    We weren’t sure what lay ahead but at the end of a long path under an arbor, we were pleasantly surprised to see a lovely stone mansion, that turned out to be 300 years old. It felt a little like we had travelled back in time and could see how a well-to-do, land-owning family had lived in this area of Portugal so many years ago.

    As we rounded a corner of the careful maintained house, we saw that the front door of the house was open (yay), and we walked in. What a treasure!

    The house was packed full of practical and not so practical artifacts used in daily life. There were some extensive and eclectic collections of clocks, plates and even smoking pipes that reflected the family’s interests. Each room was a wonder.

    The first room we went into was an office filled with old writing tools. We noticed a colorful painting that, upon closer inspection turned out to be a grisly little scene of hunting dogs bringing down a wild boar. The master was there with his knife at the ready, lunging in for the kill. Quite a painting for an office!

    The next room was probably our favourite. There was just so much to see in it! This must have been a living room where the family spent most of their time. We saw musical instruments and games and an old Vitrola near the fireplace. But this is where we also saw several stuffed animals and mounted animal heads on the walls. Two polar bear pelts were on the floor and a stuffed two headed goat was standing nearby. There were two large turtle shells that were wonderfully carved and the backbones of something. Obviously the family had enjoyed the good life and someone had travelled a lot.

    Going down a few winding stairs, we went into a big and dark ‘cellar’. There were several exhibits showcasing the different industries that would have been necessary to support the household - agricultural tools, woodworking tools, a distillery for making ‘moonshine’, tools for making shoes and boots, horse bridles and saddles, a little general store, and so on. We also saw old photos showing how the local liqueur/brandy, medronho, was made from the fermented berries of the strawberry tree which grows on the property. The place was really full of old items.

    I guess as one of the wealthiest and largest properties in the Monchique region, Parque da Mina had to have everything to make themselves. self sufficient. The house was surrounded by agricultural fields, forests and a working mine that produced iron-ore and copper so they needed a lot of specialized things.

    Going upstairs, we peeked into a room where the sewing machines and flat irons stood at the ready and read on a plaque that all families of means employed their own personal seamstresses.

    We passed by the sitting room where the descendants may have sipped some tea and learned the news of the day from a vintage radio perched upon the side table. The bedrooms were tastefully decorated and, since Portugal is a traditional Catholic country, the saints protected and watched over the family while they slumbered.

    There was even more but I won’t go into everything. It was an amazing house and well kept up. Apparently, there are still some family members living in the town.

    We went outside and a gentleman approached us and invited us to try some of the estate’s medrohno (moonshine) with an alcohol content of 48%! We slipped our samples of that fire water and he generously offered us more. (Hic)

    From there, we followed a trail to the mine and through an aviary and a petting zoo. We had an enjoyable afternoon trying to imagine how people had lived so long ago in such isolation.

    Sometimes it’s more fun to take a detour to explore a place you’ve never heard of rather than stick to the original plan and, for us, this turned out to be one of those times. It’s rare to see a historic home so meticulously maintained and to find so many authentic and vintage collections displayed in each room.

    Silves will have to be on another day, but we have time.
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  • Medronho, Firewater of the Algarve

    9 januari 2019, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    It seems that every country that we have visited, has their own brand of homemade moonshine, or firewater.

    Portugal has Aguardente de Medronhos, or simply Medronho.

    In the mountains around Monchique, there grows a wild tree, Arbutus Unedo or the Strawberry tree, that produces a small fruit that looks more than a small lychee fruit than a strawberry. Local farmers pick the innocent-looking berries of the trees growing on their land and distil their own brandy at home. Producing up to 30 litres for their own use is allowed.

    From October to December, people pick 7 - 10 kilos of ripe, red-orange berries to make one litre of brandy. The berries are put into a barrel and stays there to ferment for 2 to 3 months.

    Distillation is best done in the traditional way - over a low fire and by using a copper alambique as a distillation device. Afterwards, the liquid is tested by rubbing some of it on your hands. It’s a good Medronho if you can smell the fruit after the alcohol has evaporated.


    The people call this strong spirit, ‘firewater’. This makes sense: ‘água ardente’ is Portuguese for ‘burning water’ and the liquid, with an alcohol content which varies between 40 and 50%, burns like heck when we swallowed it.

    Medronho is Portugal’s best-known fruit brandy. Traditionally, farmers in rural Portuguese areas would start the day with a shot of Medronho in order to ‘wake their spirits’.

    Because of their high pectine content, Medronho berries are also used to make jams and preserves. Rich in antioxidants, they’re viewed as good for your health. In folk medicine, the leaves are used as well; it’s believed that kidney and bladder problems could be treated by drinking tea made of Medronho leaves.
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  • A Walk Towards Luz & A Traditional Meal

    10 januari 2019, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    More walking uphill? Sure, if it means a beautiful view from the top of the cliffs between Donna’s resort and a town called Luz.

    We met around 10:30 a.m. and leisurely walked up a steep hill overlooking the ocean, to see what was on the other side of that big hill. Well, all the views of the ocean and surrounding countryside were lovely and on the other side of the hill, there were lots of white condos on a pretty beach, close to the small fishing village of Luz. Retired and vacationing Brits have moved into this area, we were told.

    We walked back down, hopped into the car and went to dine in an authentic Portuguese restaurant that Fernando had recommended that we try out, called Prato Cheio. On Thursdays, a typical Portuguese meal called Cozido a Portuguesa is served as a specialty. The meal includes a variety of meats (pork, beef, chicken), sausages ( chorizo, blood sausage), and vegetables ( collard greens, carrots, potatoes, turnips, rice, beans, cabbage) that are slow cooked for around 4 hours. Each region in Portugal has their own version of this meal. The restaurant was full of locals. After more than 1/2 hour of waiting for our food to come, we were finally served 2 giant plates of these boiled food to share. So much food. A little bit of everything. Not my favourite meal but definitely filling!

    We waddled out of the restaurant and went to the riverside promenade in Lagos where we wanted to check out a small fort on the water.
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