Castelo de Vide

On a lovely Friday afternoon, we drove north from Evora to Castelo de Vide though a rich agricultural area full of vineyards, olives trees, fruits and grains and fields of cattle and sheep. It took us about 2 hours and we ended up in a completely different world. We are in the Serra de São Mamede mountain range in the Portalegre District. This range is named after Saint Mammes. Together with the Serra de Arraiolos, the Serra de São Mamede is one of the few places in the Alentejo region where there might be snow in the winter. We didn’t see any, thank heavens, and the weather was probably the warmest that we have had so far.

Castelo de Vide is lovely. Our favourite place so far. We are staying in a large house (Casa de Maria BnB) on the edge of town and the hostess is amazing. She treats us like royalty! On our first night, we went to the local Pingo Doce grocery store and bought a delicious roasted chicken, a baguette and ingredients for a salad to eat at her house. Luisa then set the dining room table for us and added cheeses and even a bottle of red wine and offered us a vegetable soup. We had a feast!

In the morning, we had another feast. Juices and a huge mug of coffee and hot milk started things off. Then toast and a choice of 8 different jams that she had made from plants in her large yard was only a small part of what we were offered. Serrano ham and local cheeses followed. And then to top it off, about 6 cakes were presented to us. And of course the Nata custard tarts. No lunch for us!

Today was a walking day. We walked all over this lovely town - the square, the old Jewish quarter and of course the castle. The parks are kept impeccably. The mineral water here is so pure that it is said that drinking it will cure all manner of ailments from high blood pressure to diabetes! There are beautiful little fountains all over the town and lavender lines the sidewalks.

Towards the end of the 15th century Castelo de Vide had attracted a significant Jewish community. They fled here as the result of persecution by the Catholic church's Inquisition in Spain and settled in a part of the town now known as the Judiaria or Jewish Quarter. While Portugal was somewhat more tolerant, the area in which Jews could live was restricted and many were pressured into converting to Christianity.

The castle was amazing. By now, we have seen a lot of castles but this one was in such good shape. Within its walls, there are many whitewashed houses with pots of flowers decorating them, and people still living in the old houses. The streets are narrow and can really only be walked on. Some walls are scraped at side view mirror height so cars have attempted driving through the town.

Chris has been itching to walk in the hills across from us, so while I write, he is walking.もっと詳しく