Mexico & New Zealand - 2019/20

december 2019 - marts 2020
From the known to the unknown. Læs mere
  • 128fodaftryk
  • 3Lande
  • 111dage
  • 1,0kfotos
  • 36videoer
  • 35,1kkilometer
  • 31,2kkilometer
  • Dag 26

    Lazy days...

    5. januar 2020, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Believe it or not, Chris and I have never stayed for an extended time in a beach town. This was going to be a new experience for us.

    Pat and Gail have been here before and since Pat grew up in a beach town in California, he loves the ocean, surfing, swimming and snorkelling. Chacala is the perfect place for this. Gail loves the calm areas of the beach for swimming and Chacala has that too. We are fortunate that they found this wonderful little place and we can share it with them.

    There are lots of Americans and Canadians here, mostly from the west coast. They know each other so there is always someone who will arrange pickle ball games in the early morning, ukulele group meets in the late morning, dinner parties or meetups at restaurants, little group driving or hiking trips, seeing the sunsets while drinking margaritas at a nearby restaurant, etc. Always something going on, if you want to be busy.

    Pat and Gail know us well enough, so we don’t always have to do things together but it is fun to
    have options.

    On Sundays, a terrific brunch is offered in a little shaded and secluded area at the end of the
    beach. We all went there for the first time and loved it! Gourmet food and mimosas on the beach. Ahhhh. As added entertainment we watched a whale breaching in the distance. Pretty exciting!

    A group decision was made. We have all agreed to go there every Sunday.
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  • Dag 28

    Up the Volcano for Beautiful Views

    7. januar 2020, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We are in ‘relax mode’. What can I say? So what have we been doing?

    The day before yesterday we just did relaxing things. Nothing strenuous.

    Pat and Gail have returned to their pickle ball games on a rough basketball court with several other gringos. It gets hot here during the day so 7 a.m. is a good time to play. I watched a few games and everyone was having fun. A few falls though...as mentioned, the court is rough.

    Chris went with PnG to a ukulele practice with about 8 people. That was fun.

    We have gone swimming on this beautiful beach several times. The sand is lovely and the town prides itself in keeping the beach clean. Yesterday was the last day of Christmas holidays, so today the beach was very quiet.

    Oh, we have eaten several times in the beachfront palapas. Inexpensive and delicious, especially the vegetarian omelets and green smoothies.

    This morning, we decided to walk to the rim of a nearby ancient volcano. We set out at around 7 a.m., after watching a beautiful sunrise, and drinking a coffee on our rooftop patio.

    It was a pleasant walk with lots of birds to look at. At the top, we discovered a tiny ‘offering’ on the trail.

    Once we left the shade of the jungly trail, it started to get pretty hot and we were hungry. So, we stopped at a beachside palapa restaurant and ordered their famous vegetarian omelet with beans, a coffee and a green juice. Delicious and the added bonus of watching the waves in the ocean. We enjoyed the slow service. Nothing moves very fast here!

    The walk through the jungle to the top of the rim of the volcano was very pleasant. We saw lots of birds and interesting plants. The views at the top were lovely. At times, the crater fills up with water and a lake appears.
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  • Dag 30

    Market Day in La Peñita

    9. januar 2020, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Visiting a Tianguis in Mexico is a must. And it just happens that every Thursday an open-air tianguis market is held in a town not far from Chacala called La Peñita. People come from miles around to attend this weekly market and the four of us were there too.

    We caught a taxi at 8 a.m. and within a half an hour, we were walking the streets of La Peñita. The market was at the bottom of the Main Street near the ocean and it was big.

    And what were they selling? A little bit of everything. From local artists displaying silver and handmade jewelry, glassware, pottery, Oaxacan wool rugs and the famous Huichol Indian beaded artwork – to vendors with carts of nuts and berries, homemakers selling fresh pastries and linens, tshirts and beach wear, and pickup trucks with poblano peppers and watermelons – you name it, they’ve got it. I have read that this market is one of the largest and most well-known markets in the area.

    We wandered around, bought a few things, went to the beach to watch the entertaining pelicans and frigate birds and then had a pleasant lunch on a breezy second floor patio.

    On the way to the taxi stand, we stopped and picked up a roast chicken for dinner.

    We negotiated with a taxi driver to take us directly to Chacala. Usually the trip would include a change in taxis in Las Varas, but we were dropped off right in our town. It was a good thing as it is a hot day and the sooner we could get into the ocean for a swim, the better.

    And that’s what we did!
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  • Dag 32

    The Muelle (Dock) and Making Ceviche

    11. januar 2020, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    In 1524, 32 years after Columbus’ trip, Hernán Cortés' nephew Spaniard Francisco Cortés de Buena Ventura arrived in the Chacala bay. A long time before that, it was inhabitated by the Tecoxquin (sometimes referred to as the Throat cutters) from approximately 2000 to 2300 BC. They left petroglyphs in nearby places.

    The indigenous who lived here when Cortés came, were mainly fishermen and farmers . They also traded salt and cotton and coaco.

    Chacala was a small commercial port in the 1800s (coffee) but didn’t become a big port like San Blas or Puerto Vallarta did. The old port is still used by local fisherman who go out early in the morning to catch shrimp and all sorts of other fish.

    The muelle is at the end of the street and so we went down in the morning to see what was being brought in. The shrimp boats had come in because we had heard the vendors over loud speakers announcing that we could buy shrimp off the truck going around town.

    The whole area is very picturesque with boats bobbing in the water, pelicans and other seabirds flying from one perch to another and fisherman doing their thing.

    A big table is set up in the shade where fishermen can clean their catch. They throw the carcasses back into the water for the other fish and the pelicans to eat. I asked what kind of fish they were cleaning and was told Toro (Bullfish) and Truche del Arrife (Reef Trout). I asked what kind of fish is good for making ceviche and was told that a fish called Cochito Bota (Triggerfish) was the one to use.

    They didn’t have a fresh fish but they did have a kilogram frozen package. It was the perfect size so we bought it, thawed it in cold water and made a delicious ceviche.

    Basic Ceviche Recipe

    1 pound whitefish, cut into bite-size pieces
    6-8 squeezed limes
    Couple of tomatoes, seeded and diced
    1 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped
    1/3 cup diced green or red bell pepper (optional)
    chopped onion
    1 jalapeno pepper, chopped, or to taste
    4 cloves garlic, minced
    salt and ground black pepper to taste
    Directions
    Place fish into a flat dish; cover with lime juice. Chill fish in refrigerator until tender and opaque, at least 3 hours. Drain lime juice.
    Mix tomato, cilantro, green bell pepper, onion, jalapeno pepper, garlic, salt, and pepper in a bowl; add fish and stir. Chill in refrigerator until flavors blend, about 1 hour.
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  • Dag 32

    Friday Brewery & Saturday Organic Market

    11. januar 2020, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We have been in Chacala for a week, and one month in Mexico. How the time has flown!

    Every Friday and Saturday evenings , a little craft brew pub called Onda Brewing opens at 6 p.m. It is family friendly and features a changing list of brews from local and sourced ingredients. The brewers and staff live in Chacala and made our a visit feel like we were dropping in to a gathering of friends and family. The group were mostly, if not all gringos.

    Besides beer, they also made a wonderful ginger/rum drink called the Gengiberator. (Gengibre is ginger).
    Delicious. We shared a meat and cheese platter and then moved on to Las Brisas restaurant for a tasty shrimp taco dinner before returning home.

    Chacala is a tiny town and everything is so close by. The laundromat lady, Mary, is steps away. Today she washed and folded our clothes for 40 pesos, or $2.78 Cdn. The vegetable stand is a 5 minute walk away.

    The beach is also only 5 minutes away. Very good beach restaurants and taco stands are just a few minutes away too. What makes things interesting are the little places that just open on certain days, like the pub, a Sunday brunch place, the Pozole soup stands, and weekend roast chicken stands. Always something special to look forward too.

    This morning, we all did our own thing for an hour or two early in the day when it was cool. Chris hiked up the volcano, Pat boogie boarded as the waves were high, Gail played pickle ball and I walked to the muelle (dock) where the fishermen were.

    On Saturdays, an organic market comes to town. We fill our fridge with the fresh veggies that we get there - lettuce, bok choy, spinach, kale, mushrooms, radishes, and our freezer with homemade buns. Other stands set up too with jewellery, clothes, sarongs, rugs and art, but it is on a small scale.

    The photos show Gail as she shops for veggies and bread at the organic market.
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  • Dag 34

    Las Varas

    13. januar 2020, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    As I have mentioned before, Chacala is a tiny beach town. If we need to use the bank or a pharmacy, or want to buy something more than basic, we need to go into the bigger town of Las Varas. Chris and I decided to take a combi, van, into Las Varas to see what it had to offer.

    The town is less than 12 km from Chacala. Las Varas was originally a hacienda (estate) and only formally became a pueblo in 1935. Sometime, we would like to find the hacienda house, if it still exists.

    Las Varas is located on the main highway between Puerto Vallarta and Mazatlan and where many different roads that lead to the various beaches of Riviera Nayarit meet. So it is a pretty busy place.

    Primarily dedicated to agriculture, the town is surrounded by fields of beans and tobacco as well as fruit orchards - banana, guayabana, avocado, pineapple, lime, orange, noni, papaya, star fruit.

    We really didn’t do a lot in town but enjoyed walking around. The town square is nice but there isn’t really any shade which is too bad. In more towns, the town square is a great place to people watch under big old trees. The palm trees here were pretty small so the square was hot.

    I had read about a museum, but no one knew about it. Finally we asked at the library and we were told that they used to have one but a museum in Tepic had taken all of their artifacts and put them on display there.

    Someone has recommended a good, clean restaurant called Angelita’s so we headed there for lunch. It lived up to its reputation. We had a delicious beef taco lunch with giant limonadas.

    Roast chicken bbqed over charcoal was being cooked so we bought a chicken, rice, onions, hot peppers and salsa to take home for dinner with Pat and Gail. We couldn’t resist, it smelled so good. (It tasted good too.)

    Then, we visited an ATM and went back to the corner to pick up a combi home.

    Even though Las Varas is a busy economic centre, it has a nice Mexican feel with very few gringos. Many of the people we talked to were missing teeth and were genuinely curious about us and interested in talking to us or helping us out. It was a pleasant outing.

    Note: more photos of Las Varas to come later...
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  • Dag 35

    Altavista Petroglyphs Pt. 1 - The Hike

    14. januar 2020, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    How could we be in an area known for its petroglyphs and not visit a site filled with ancient engravings, that was only a 30 minute drive away?

    We decided to hire a guide, Chuy, who also knows a lot about birds, to drive us to the area and explain what we were seeing. The area is well-known but not a very touristy site. In fact, we only saw one other little group when we were there. People who aren’t willing or able to scramble over big rocks shouldn’t go.

    Chuy picked us up at 7 a.m., when it is cooler, and off we went. The road to the site from the highway is not marked so I am not sure we would have found it on our own. The road and trail to the stones was very picturesque so I made one footprint for the walk and one for the petroglyphs that we saw.

    Now a little history, taken from signs posted along the way ...

    The Tecoxquines, (Throat Cutters), who were the forefathers of the Aztecs, engraved images in volcanic stone over two thousand years ago. These petroglyphs may have been symbolic elements of everyday life, as far as health, fertility, rains, and crops. The rock carvings might have been meant as prayers or offerings to the gods responsible for these things.

    After the Spanish conquest, the Tecoxquines were completely annihilated by epidemics and forced labor. Today native people of the region still talk about "white Indians," ghosts appearing from the mountains to honor their ancient gods.

    The 200 acre archaeological site is located along the sides of a creek on the side of the Copo volcano. Chuy parked the car and we walked through fruit tree orchards on farm roads to the river. There were lots of birds to see and identify with Chuy’s help.

    Once we got to the river, we had to negotiate the big boulders that were strewn along the sides of the river. Chuy would stop, point out the carvings and explain the meanings of the designs that were on the top and the sides of the big rocks.

    Spirals, wavy lines, and other symbols carved in the rocks were probably a ritual prayer language for the gods. As an agricultural culture, the Tocoxquines would have been concerned with rain, fertility of the land and the timing of the seasons that they relied on.

    While the exact meaning of symbols will never be known, spirals have been interpreted as the Sun, a storm, the wind, the spiral snake, or as a symbol of the natural cycle of rainy and dry days.
    Chuy showed us a large rock filled with engravings, that was a possible map of the area.

    So many petroglyphs. I think that there are over 2,000!

    Eventually, we came to the Pila del Rey, or King’s Fountain, and what a beautiful place that was. But you can see the photos. An amazingly lovely grotto of basalt rocks. It is still used by the Huichol people during the solstices. We saw offerings and ribbons in the trees. No wonder the area was picked as a ceremonial centre. As our daughter said, it looks like a movie set.
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  • Dag 36

    A Weekly ‘Hole in the Wall’ Restaurant

    15. januar 2020, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Chabela, a lady who lives across the street from us, opens up her home every Wednesday to serve a Mexican meal for 10 - 20 people. She posts the time and the menu and puts a sign-up sheet on her door.

    Last week, we ate a chicken mole dish and this week, we had either a shrimp or beef Chile Relleno dish with beans, rice and salad. Jugs of guayabana juice are set on the table, and serviettes and cutlery handed out. Then we get real Mexican home-cooked food that she prepares in her kitchen. The grill is on for warming up tortillas.

    Three long tables with chairs are set up in her patio. Her dog and a cat walk under the tables freely. And everyone talks. It’s like a big family gathering.

    This week, we took a few photos of the experience.
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