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Tanzania and Zanzibar

A 50th Anniversary Trip with Pat and Gail Lue lisää
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    🇹🇿 Malindi, Tanzania
    LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp

    Zanzibar’s Fun Night Market

    21. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    For the first time since we arrived inTanzania, only our breakfasts are part of our trip package. Pius, the man we worked with to plan the trip, said that we would enjoy eating out in Stone Town. There are street food kiosks set up in the park, lots of good restaurants and the food is good.

    So, at around 6 pm, we walked the short distance to the Forodhani Gardens and it had transformed. Everybody and their brother were at the park - in the water, playing beach soccer, dancing, singing and having fun. Even all the city’s cats were out!

    A parade of sorts passed us with young men dancing on a truck bed.

    A large group of young men brought smiles to our faces as they launched themselves off a seawall and did funny moves in the air before falling into the water. It was really fun to watch!

    The night market is a vibrant spot and was full of local Zanzibari street food, which is influenced by African, Arab, and Indian cuisines, including Zanzibar pizza, grilled seafood, and urojo soup. The market is lively and bustling with tourists and locals, especially around sunset, and is a popular place to get freshly squeezed sugar-cane juice.

    We all got a chicken shawarmas for dinner. The bits of meat that fell out of our wraps were quickly gobbled up by the cats.

    At another stand, we watched as a father and son made Nutella, banana and mango crepes. They were a delicious treat!

    Apparently the night food market is on every night. No home cooking needed in this heat!    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp
    The harbour
    A big tree in the park.The old fortOld carved doorIndianNarrow streets with shopsOld buildings crumblingIn the centre of the old town - meeting placeTribute in memory of the slaves. The chain is original.In a slave holding room. Up to 75 people held here!

    Zanzibar - Stonetown

    21. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Hot, hot, hot and humid!

    It didn’t take us long to exit the airport and there was Sulaimon with a sign saying Christopher Smith, ready to take us to our hotel, the Golden Tulip Stonetown Boutique Hotel in Stonetown.

    He made arrangements for us to go on a walking tour of Stonetown the next day at 9 a.m.

    We were pretty tired but went up to the rooftop on the 4rth floor, where there was a breeze and a great view over the port, and had dinner. Bed came shortly afterwards.

    The next morning, we went up on the rooftop and had an amazing buffet breakfast with a view of the comings and goings of the busy port. Sneaky crows would steal food off people’s plates when they weren’t looking.

    A guide met us and took us on a 3 hour tour of the old city of Stonetown. We are in a great location for exploring the city and the hotel has everything that we need or want including a big pool in a garden.

    Stonetown is so different from any place we saw on the mainland- bustling with friendly people. There was a multicultural feeling as tourists mingled with the local people.

    The people of Zanzibar are predominantly Muslim, with Islam being the dominant religion for about 98-99% of the population. Islam has a long history on the islands, dating back to at least the 10th century, and has deeply influenced the region's culture.

    Our first stop was at the Foradhani Gardens along the main seawalk of Stone Town, just in front of two famous buildings - the House of Wonders and the Old Fort.

    The House of Wonders was built in 1883 for the second Sultan of Zanzibar. It was intended as a ceremonial palace and official reception hall, celebrating modernity. It was named "House of Wonders" because it was the first building in Zanzibar to have electricity, and also the first building in East Africa to have an elevator.

    Close to the palace, is the Old Fort, one of the oldest buildings in Stonetown, built by the Portuguese in the 17th century. There is an amphitheatre that still holds theatrical a d musical concerts in it and old bullring within the walls. Now this area has several little touristy shops in it.

    The old town was a labyrinth of streets full of shops and living quarters.
    One of the buildings was Freddie Mercury’s house when he was a child.

    The old Zanzibar slave market was historically the largest slave trading center in East Africa, a key hub in the Indian Ocean slave trade that saw thousands of people trafficked from the African mainland. We did a little tour of where slaves were housed and sold. There was also an area that had several posters with information and photos from the times. Not pretty…

    The doors…

    Stonetown is most famous for its wooden doorways. Often they are the only thing left standing when the buildings they belong to collapse.

    The carved doorways, many of which do remain, blend African styles with Indian and Arabic designs and were brought to the island by traders and migrants over the centuries.

    The designs on the door are lovely. Chains are said to protect the building from evil spirits, but they also mark the mansions of wealthy Arab slave traders. Flowers at the top of the door tell how many families used to live inside, whereas vines refer to the spice trade. Geometric shapes, like squares, refer to accountants.

    It was an interesting tour but we were so hot and tired that we were happy to return to the hotel for a nap in our air conditioned room and a swim in the pool.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp
    Mount Kilimanjaro

    Chemka Hot Springs

    20. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    It was our last night on mainland Tanzania and we were in for several surprises.

    First, it was clear enough for us to see Mount Kilimanjaro with its snow covered top just before we had breakfast. Every other time that we were close enough to see it, the clouds around it hid it.

    Breakfast was filling and healthy as usual. The lady at La Parlour is a good cook.

    Our driver, Paul, picked us up at 9 a.m. and drove us to the Chemka or Kikuleta Hot Springs. We really didn’t know what to expect but were told to take our bathing suits.

    An hour later we arrived at what appeared to be a dry area but amazingly there was an oasis with two beautiful hidden ponds in the middle of a stand of palm and fig trees. The water was warm, crystal clear and a beautiful turquoise colour. We could hardly wait to get in.

    The hot springs are home to the unique Garra Rufa fish, famously known as “doctor fish.” These tiny fish are used in spa treatments worldwide for their natural ability to gently nibble away dead skin, providing a free, natural pedicure. Haha. We were surprised to feel a slight tickles/prickles on our legs and feet as we entered the water!

    They had picnic tables in the shade, a Tarzan rope swing that Chris tried out and a bamboo raft that some young men were poling down the river.

    So when we weren’t swimming we were sitting in the shade being entertained by the fun experiences people were having in the water.

    At lunch, Paul took us to a lunch bbq place where we had bbq chicken, lamb and goat cooked over a wood fire with french fries and salad.

    Then we headed back to the springs. What an idyllic way to end our time on the mainland.

    At 4 pm, Paul drove us to the Kilimanjaro airport so we could catch the plane to Zanzibar Island. One hour later, we landed. A driver was there to take us to our hotel, the Golden Tulip Stonetown Boutique Hotel.

    Everything thing that Colours of Africa has arranged has been perfect. We are happy campers.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp

    Chagga Underground Houses

    19. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    During the summer, I read about an organization called Eekanubi Underground that are dedicated to preserving and sharing the history of ancient underground houses made by the Chagga people in Kibosho.

    The Chagga are an indigenous group that have lived on the slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro for centuries. They are known for their farming skills - growing crops like bananas, coffee, and corn. They have deep ties to their land and believe that their mountain holds great spiritual significance.

    Over 1000 years ago, they built underground tunnels/homed used as hiding places during tribal wars and resistance against Maasai raids. These caves, carved by hand centuries ago, symbolize the resilience and unity of the Chagga people.

    We were very impressed with the personal tour we had. The guide told us how they had discovered the underground houses and what was involved in the excavation process, as we sipped an herbal tea made with rosemary, mint, lemongrass and a few other herbs.

    Then we went underground and were amazed by the ingenuity of the people who lived in these manmade ‘caves’. Air vents, a fresh water system, bedrooms, kitchens, meeting rooms, storage areas, washroom area, an ‘intercom’ system and little shelves for lighting and cupboards were all discovered. A big bat flew past us as we explored the tunnels.

    There is still a lot of work to do to remove the earth that has filled in the tunnels over the years but this organization is passionate about preserving this amazing piece of Chagga history.

    On the way to our new accommodation, Le Parlour, we passed a little public elementary school. Kids were lined up outside with plastic bowls to get their lunches. We felt that it would be a good place to stop and leave the parachute at that school for group games. We met the principal and a few teachers and Paul, our driver, came with us and helped by translating.

    A teacher and her kids were invited to play some games and then the kids eating their lunches came running to see what was happening. They really participated cooperatively and had a ball. It felt like we had picked a good place to leave it!

    We ate lunch in a fancy shopping mall - a tasty and healthy buffet meal.

    Paul, drove us through the old and new town of Moshi. There are underground streams there, so it is a green town with lots of trees and a lot of gardens. An old friend of ours used to live in Moshi as a child so we were interested in seeing it.

    We drove through the big bustling market which was an interesting experience. People were also making and selling sandals and rope made from old tires.

    Then on to our 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom townhouse accommodation for the night.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp
    Our cabin and the volcano in the backgroundThe poolThe big volcano with volcanic ash on the top.

    Back to Arusha and Goodbye to Norton

    18. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    We have had a crazy busy but wonderful trip. We have visited all the major national parks and conservation areas in Northern Tanzania, seen a lot of wonderful birds and animals, visited several tribes, gave away puppets, toothbrushes and a parachute for games, and have enjoyed ourselves immensely. Now we are starting the homeward part of our trip and will be home on November 24rth. A little earlier than planned due to our unexpected start but actually, just perfect.

    The drive back to Arusha from Lake Natron took us about 6 hours. The road conditions varied all the way back. It was nice eventually to be back on a paved highway. We still had to stop for an assortment of animals but it was good.

    At one point at the side of the highway, we passed groups of teenage boys all dressed in black with black and white painted faces. We asked Norton who they were and why.

    He told us that every seven years, a circumcision ceremony, which is the most vital initiation of all rites of passages for men in the Maasai society, is performed shortly after puberty, leaving childhood And becoming an adult. After passing the ceremony, Maasai boys wear black clothes and get decorated with detailed accessories which marks the initiation of men into warrior hood for 3 months.They also paint symbols on their faces using white soil/chalk.

    Today is Norton’s last day with us after being with us for 2 weeks. We were very happy with him as he kept us on track, drove well and knew where to find and identify animals and birds. He explained life in this area and was always on time and respectful. We couldn’t have asked for a better driver and guide.

    Finally, we arrived at the Karibu Heritage House in Arusha where it didn’t take long for us to put on our bathing suits and jump into the pool.

    We met with Hamis from Colours of Africa Safaris and settled up money that we owed - our flights to Nairobi from Zanzibar, accommodation and a shuttle in Nairobi. The company had taken good care of us, for sure. Also we had to figure out how to get Zanzibar’s Mandatory $50 Medical Insurance before flying out on Thursday.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp

    Lake Natron

    17. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Lake Natron is a mineral-rich soda lake in northern Tanzania, at the border with Kenya. It's a breeding ground for hundreds of thousands of lesser flamingos, despite the highly alkaline state of the bright red lake water.

    The 4 hour drive to our accommodation, the Safari Comfort Bungalow, was once again on a bumpy and dusty road over volcanic rocks, around a big active volcano and avoiding wandering herds of cattle, goats, sheep and donkeys. It sits below Ol Doinyo Lengai, a soaring, active volcano in the Rift Valley.

    On the way, we stopped for a short break at a steep-sided mini volcanic crater, called God’s Hole, about 300m deep and 1km wide. There were great views of the surrounding areas from this site and of course, there were a few Maasai women under a tree selling their beaded jewellery.

    We continued on, crossing over old lava ‘river’ beds until we reached a town that had a significant river flowing through it. All the animals and people from the area gather at this spot to drink/get water.

    Finally, at the end of the world, no I mean at the end of the road, we arrived at the accommodation and it was lovely. A very large and fancy restaurant, a big swimming pool and several good-sized cabins spread out over a landscaped property overlooking Lake Natron.

    We had our lunch there and then Norton whisked us off to go on a hike to a waterfall.

    Right next door to Lake Natron is Ngare Sero gorge. It is a 600 metre-deep crack in the Great Rift Valley with a pretty waterfall that you can hike to by walking up the river. The waterfall is part of a beautiful, small oasis where we were told we could swim.

    The first hundred metres of the hike doesn't look like much. Pat even wondered why we needed a Maasai guide. But once we entered the gorge, we quickly realized that we were in for a real treat and a guide was a good idea.

    The hike first took us up and down some stone stairs at the side of the gorge but then we went down to the bottom. We spent a fair bit of time walking over the jumble of rocks alongside the river, but then had to crisscross the river. We had been told to wear our bathing suits and shoes.

    There was a section where we had to walk right in the river. At times, we would put our foot down on what we thought was solid ground and sink in the lava sand on the river bottom. The river current was somewhat strong and at times we were walking in water up to our waists. It was somewhat challenging.

    Finally we arrived at the beautiful waterfall.Standing under the waterfall and swimming in its pool was the perfect reward for hiking in the heat to get there.

    I read that all in all it was a 5.5 km hike. Not long but scrambling over hot slippery rocks and dealing with the running water made it a little challenging. Our shoes filled up with sand and we needed time to dump them before we could walk back. Thanks to our guide though, we all felt well taken care of.

    But the day wasn’t over! Norton drove us closer to the blood red lake. It is truly an unusual lake.

    Facts about Lake Natron:
    The area is 1.040 km²
    2,5 millions flamingos come there yearly to breed (75% of the world population)
    Lake Natron has the largest flamingo migration in the world
    Lake type: salt lake
    Size of the lake when it is full 57 km, by 22 km
    Water temperature: between 40-60°C

    What a day. We were all exhausted but it was nice place to stay before we head back to Arusha where we started this trip out.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp

    Lake Eyasi - a Visit with Datoga Tribe

    16. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    After visiting the Bushmen tribe, we drove a few miles further and had a visit with a Datoga family. Our guide said that it was his tribe.

    The Datoga are a semi-nomadic group that herd cattle, goats and sheep. They are known as fierce warriors as well as skilled blacksmiths with a deep connection to ancestral customs. The Bushmen told us that they get their metal arrow heads from this group.

    Once again, we were greeted warmly and were taken by the women into one of the mud and dung huts. We sat on simple wooden benches and they showed us how they ground corn on a lava stone that was similar to the metates in Mexico. Gourds, pots and leather clothes hung on the walls.

    The women were not shy and were encouraged by our guide to ask us questions.

    They asked Chris how many wives did he have? They are polygamous like the Maasai.

    Where were we from? How did we get there? We told them that we flew in a big plane and they wondered if we felt dizzy or sick. Were there windows that we could open so we could vomit outside while flying?

    Then a lady asked about Chris’ hearing aides. Were they air pods? Chris and Pat took out their hearing aides and fitted two women with them. The whole process was really funny. At first they were scared but then nodded their heads. Chris played Tim Armstrong’s ‘Into Action’ music for the younger lady who laughed when she heard it.

    Then we went outside to a men’s shop where they showed us how they metal objects from melting down scrap metal over a wood fire. The process was amazing using simple tools. They are renowned for making intricate metal ( copper, steel, bronze) weapons and beautiful jewellery. We couldn’t resist buying a few bracelets. They were beautiful.

    In the afternoon, we drove off to see nearby Lake Eyasi. So far, all the lakes that we have visited have been . The people who live here all have brown/yellow teeth due to the water.

    Fishing boats were stranded way back from the shoreline as they hadn’t had rain for a long time. Fishing huts were set up and a few poor people seemed to be living in them.

    We dipped our hands into the reddish brown water and within minutes our hands turned white - salt covered and a bit slimey for some reason.

    Life in this area must be pretty hard but the people seemed happy.    Lue lisää

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    Lake Eyasi - a Visit with the Bushmen

    16. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    After several days of birds and animals, we had a change of pace and went to Lake Eyasi where several tribes live including the Hudzabe or Bushmen tribe and the neighbouring Datoga tribe. The drive was rough again but in a different way- very dusty and dry with big potholes and a sand base. We went to the bottom of the Rift Valley near the Serengeti Plateau where it is hot and dry.

    We picked up a guide/translator who guided us to the village and explained how the Hadzabe bushmen live. They are one of the last remaining hunter-gatherers in Africa and live solely on the land in the Lake Eyasi area, just as people lived during the Stone Age for thousands of years.

    With less than 1000 Hadzabe people, very little has changed in their way of life. They spend their days hunting and foraging for food, setting up camp for a few weeks in one location and then moving on. Hadzabe live off the land – they have no livestock or a permanent site they call home.

    The Hadzabe don’t have a close connection to other Tanzanian tribes. They’ve been living in the same region for a few thousand years, surviving in an area that other tribes found to be infertile and inhabitable. Because they survive almost exclusively on the meat they hunt and kill, they are the only tribe that has permission to hunt game in the area where they live. They are however not allowed to hunt in any of the big game reserves or national parks.

    The world the Hadzabe live in is completely without any modern conveniences. They are a skilled people, who hunt and forage what they can from the land in the rainy and dry seasons and adjust their diet accordingly.

    The concept of counting is foreign to them and there are no numbers in their vocabulary. They have no written history, instead relying on their own words to pass stories and memories on from one generation to the next. Nor do they use a calendar or clock to track the passing of days or time.

    The language is unique, known as a “clicking” language.

    The group we visited had about 30 people in their group and they were very friendly, greeting us by fist bumping and wanting to show us their various arrows and beadwork. The men were around one fire when we came and the women were in another area with the kids.

    We went on a walk following the hunters with their bows and arrows and were impressed with their shooting skills. One guy shot a sunbird, the size of a hummingbird, that was up in a tree. It got caught in the branches and he threw a stone accurately to dislodge it. He showed us to us and put it in his pocket. Not sure how much meat was in it…

    As you will see, their homes are just simple stick houses that are easy to build and take down. They live a nomadic life so houses are not permanent.

    I had made 10 simple hand puppets that we gave to the kids, showing them how to manipulate them. They loved them and so did the adults, men as well as women.

    The toothbrushes were a hit too.

    The guide told us that they really don’t work, just hunt. But if they get any money, they buy local gin, cigarettes and marijuana. They hunt in the morning and then laze around all day.

    It would be interesting to learn more about how they live.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp
    The crater from the rim
    HippoFlamingoesThe cater wall is in the backgroundWarthogHipposMaribu Stork wanting some of our lunchBuffalo hornsThe highlight

    Ngorongoro Crater

    15. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We are staying in the Karatu Safari Camp Lodge in the bustling town of Karatu. The town is the largest settlement (20,000 people) between Arusha and the Serengeti and is 1,500m, close to a mile up, in altitude. A lot of tourist necessities can be found here - ATMs, grocery stores, hotels, gift shops, etc. It is a good place to use as a home base for seeing several interesting places so we are staying here for 3 nights.

    Our destination for today is down into the Ngorongoro crater - the world’s largest intact volcanic caldera. The wall is not broken anywhere. We actually passed it earlier on the way to the Serengeti. The floor of the crater (600m below the rim) is 260 square kilometers with a large lake in it.

    The road leading to the bottom is steep and cobblestoned and there are several switchbacks.
    The scenery and seeing large concentrations of wildlife was great. It is an excellent location to view the Big Five - elephants, lions and buffaloes, sometimes leopards and black rhinos. We have seen 4/5 of the Big Five and today we saw #5 - the Black Rhino! He was in the tall grass and we really couldn’t take a clear cellphone photo of him but we did see it.

    Lake Magali was full of all sorts of water birds and hippos. Open grassland covers most of the crater floor and is full of zebras, hyenas, warthogs, wildebeest, gazelle, elephants with big tusks and buffalos. There weren’t any impala or giraffes though.

    The birding was great. All manner of water birds - storks, ducks, cranes, herons, flamingoes, pelicans and many, many more. On the grasslands we saw Kori bustards (world’s heaviest flying bird), ostriches, crowned cranes and a long-crested eagle. I’m naming just a few of the many kinds of birds that we saw that live in this area.

    Tourists have to follow strict rules. It opened at 7 a.m. and it closed at 6 pm. The picnic and washrooms are the only areas you can get out of the vehicle you are in. We read that is costs $250 U.S. plus tax per vehicle to enter the crater. Yeah I just I just read that. It cost $250 plus tax US per vehicle to enter that crater 250 bucks.

    The highlight of our visit happened at the end of our visit in a swampy area that was loaded with waterfowl.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp
    Sunrise from bed
    Mating lionsHippo pool and lots of poo!HippoDikdikBaboons2Secretary birdHyenaRain

    Leaving the Serengeti

    14. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Today … an African massage on the bumpy and dusty road back to Karatu.

    Once again, we woke up to a beautiful sunrise. Last night, we could hear bat-eared foxes, zebras, hyenas and a lion that was very close by, we were told.

    Just after breakfast, around 8, we started the four hour trip back out of the park. The morning was spent looking for animals and we saw all the animals we had seen before as well as a jackal. There are so many animals!

    But every time that we spot a new animal, it is doing something different. Two lions were mating beside a river, A hippo came out of its stagnant pool and went into the grasses. A hyena was wallowing in a big mud puddle. Skittish zebras were trying to take a drink in the hippo pool but were frightened by something nearby. Maybe a crocodile?

    By 1 pm, we were back at a picnic area and had our lunch. There seemed to be a lot of people there. Norton has told us that it is low season and there aren’t many tourists compared to the high season. Still there are a lot.

    The afternoon was spent driving back to Karatu, just outside of the Ngorongoro Conservation area. We stayed there when we came. The road was under construction and extremely dusty. We appreciated that we were not driving! Then it started to rain. Now the dust was mud and the road had to be slippery. Norton did a great job.

    We arrived at the hotel at around 4 p.m., were greeted with a passion fruit juice and jumped into the shower.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp

    Serengeti National Park (West Side)

    13. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Today Pat and Gail wanted a real day of leisure so only Chris and I went with Norton to the west side of the park. Our birding skills are nowhere near as expert as theirs but with Norton’s help and a bird book we saw at least 20 different birds.

    Seeing so many animals migrating in an orderly fashion was awesome. I mean there were thousands of wildebeasts and zebras running across the road, jumping over the river banks and moving in one huge group.

    There is no way that this view can be captured using a cellphone. From the air, there may be a hope of getting a photo of this sight. We were offered the choice of going in a hot air balloon over the Serengeti but for $500 U.S. each for a one hour flight, we quickly shut that down. It was pretty spectacular on the ground.

    We stopped at a hippo pool and saw a cluster of hippos in the water and on the rock was a light green crocodile. About 7’ long.

    Once again we spotted a couple of well-fed groups of lions sleeping in the shade of trees. Near one of the lion groups, we saw a Maribu crane, tawny eagle and vultures gorging on a dead zebra carcass.

    Another group of sleeping lions had giraffes on the lookout. They could smell the lions but couldn’t see them and they were standing as still as trees.

    Another wonderful day in the Serengeti.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp
    The only big flowers we have seen.

    Serengeti National Park (East Side)

    12. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    We woke up to a beautiful African sunrise across the endless plain. Red, orange, and yellow on the horizon.

    Being in the tent was awesome. The sounds of the winds blowing over the Serengeti as well as zebras barking and hyenas making odd sounds made the night exciting. We may hear lions tonight! We cannot leave the tent without an escort before 6:30 a.m. and after 7:30 p.m. as this place doesn’t have a fence around it and animals could be anywhere.

    Our game drive today took us to the east side of the park. This park is huge ( 14,763 square kilometers) and you could spend days exploring it. We have three full days, more than most people spend here.

    Today was supposed to be a ‘leisure day’, Norton informed us. We started the game drive at 8 a.m., after breakfast, and ended at 3:30 pm. A short day but so full of exciting moments.

    Some of the highlights included seeing up close:
    - 3 lion cubs with no mother in sight
    - a crocodile in the river
    - a leopard lying in the rocks
    - 2 beautiful cheetahs
    - a very large group of 3 types of vultures feeding on a carcass
    - elephants, giraffes, warthogs, all different types of deer-like
    animals

    The Great Migration of wildebeasts and zebras is in full swing. Hundreds of animals in single file travelling to greener pastures. The animals often passed by us across the road and we had to wait, like waiting for a long freight train to go by. We couldn’t see the end or the beginning of the line.

    Our list of animals and birds just keeps getting longer and longer!

    There are at least 4 million wildebeasts that can travel 1,000 unimpeded km in their annual migration.

    Much of the Serengeti is flat grassland plains with fertile volcanic soil. There are little pockets with rivers and palm trees. Birds and animals, especially hippos, like to come to these spots to cool down or get a drink.

    There are numerous clusters of rocky hills known as koppies. This is where we have seen a small deerlike animals called a klipspringer, dassies, leopards, and various raptors.

    We have seen 4/5 of the Big Five animals - elephants, lions, leopards, cape buffaloes. We haven’t seen a rhino here yet.

    We are so fortunate that we chose to do this trip in November, low season. The weather has been great and we have been able to drive around without the huge crowds of tourists. Yes, we see other Land Rovers carrying visitors looking for animals, but it hasn’t been annoying.

    In the camp we are in now, there was only one other group of Dutch psychiatrists for a night. Now we are here by ourselves. Quiet and peaceful at this stage of the trip.

    When we returned from a day of game driving, I happened to glance up while outside of our tent and 30’ away from me was a very big elephant looking at me. Chris was closing the tent door because of the bugs (there aren’t any) and I was out on the porch looking at this big animal and wanting to hide. Yikes!

    Note: we really haven’t had to have many bush pees as Norton has good timing and knows where all the rest areas are. Washrooms for women usually have 2 kinds of toilets - sit down and stand up.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp

    Serengeti South National Park

    11. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    The morning started out cool and Norton advised us to wear warmer clothes as it could be quite cold where we were going.

    We left at 8 a.m. and drove to the Ngorongoro Conservation area. It is a UNESCO Heritage Site with a huge volcanic crater in it. It is one of the largest craters in the world.

    We drove to a viewing point 600 m above the crater floor and were amazed by the sheer size of the caldera. There were lots of little black dots below that turned out to be herds of wildebeest, zebra and buffalo.

    For the next hour, we drove on very rough and dusty roads to the entrance of the Serengeti. Men were working on the road and graders were creating a lot of dust.

    We stopped at a small information centre that explained how the Ngorongoro crater was formed. It also had info about Mary Leakey who discovered a fossilized skull in the nearby Olduvai Gorge in 1959. She nicknamed it the “Nutcracker Man" because of its massive teeth, a strong jaw and a ridge on its head. It was a groundbreaking discovery that demonstrated early human ancestors lived in Africa and showed the use of tools.

    We entered the Serengeti Park through the South Gate and spent the next 6 hours being awed by the abundance of animals and birds that we saw.

    Our photos, using our phones, are not able to show the real beauty of this park. Even though we spent 10 hours in all driving a very rough and dusty roads, we loved every minute of our day.

    At around 6 pm, we arrived at our home for the next three nights, in the Killima Valley Tented Camp. Can you imagine sleeping in a big tent (15x30?) in the Serengeti? Awesome!    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp
    1
    The view from Karatu Lodge12

    Lake Manyara National Park

    10. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We are staying in a village called Mto wa Mbu. Just on the outskirts of the town is a national park called Lake Manyara N.P. After breakfast, around 7:45 a.m., Norton drove us to the park.

    The shallow alkaline lake, 240 square kilometres, takes up about 2/3 of the park and is surrounded by a rich diversity of habitats. The park is known for its dense elephant population, tree climbing lions (that we didn’t see) and troops of baboons.

    At the entrance to the park, there is a canopy or tree top walk with a guide. We were booked to have this experience.

    The guide, Musa, started by taking us on a short boardwalk that gradually rises from ground level up through the canopy of the forest. He told us about the trees we saw in the forest and their uses.

    Then we walk over a series of swinging suspension bridges with thick netting on the sides, until we reached a height of 18m (60’) off the ground.
    We were reminded to go ‘ Pole Pole’ or slowly slowly.

    Each of the bridges ended on a viewing deck situated around tree trunks. These treetop platforms allowed us to stop and are perfect places to stop and observe life in the canopy. There were 10 bridges and 9 platforms.

    During this walk the guide did a great job pointing out interesting facts about the Lake Manyara flora and fauna,. He told us that he helped build this walk. By the way, this is Tanzania's first Treetop Walkway and one of the longest in Africa. We really enjoyed it.

    For the rest of the day, we drove through the park looking for new birds and spotting animals. A slightly tense moment happened when a male elephant that was intent on chasing a female, spotted us and was not happy with us interrupting his design on her. Norton quickly backed up the truck to give him space.

    We saw hippos in the lake. Actually several pods.

    And a Ground Hornbill bird who had caught a bat and ate it. It took a few attempts to get that big bat down his throat but he did it!

    There were a lot of birds near the lake as well as lizards. Chris pointed out a big Monitor Lizard that was walking along the shore.

    The giraffes in the park seemed to be a darker colour than others were had seen before.

    Baboons were everywhere! There were huge family groupings and they are fun to watch. They are not at all afraid of the vehicles and walk right beside the truck.

    Our drive to the Karatu Lodge took about an hour and we went steadily upwards. It is much cooler and greener here. Every lodge we have been to has been exceptionally clean with a small restaurant that serves us a lot of food that is presented with pride. Not eating it would be insulting, I think. We all feel that we have put on weight!    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp

    Visiting a Maasai Village p.m.

    9. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    We were worried that we’d get a song and dance tour of the Maasai village but what we experienced showed respect for their culture and it was a real learning experience for us. And a little bit of a welcoming song and dance. Haha.

    We have seen Maasai men, dressed in toga-like red blankets with long wooden poles, with their herds of cattle, goats or sheep by the side of the road almost the whole time we have been in Tanzania. We now understand why they are there after seeing the desert that they live in. They leave their compounds and take their animals long distances to find food.

    Norton drove us to a compound and we were greeted by a young man named Danny. It isn’t his Maasai name but easy for us to say. A traditional greeting song was sung and we were welcomed into the family compound.

    The Maasai measure a man’s wealth by the number of cattle (herd of 50 is good) and the number of children he has. They have several wives and first get married when they are about 24 or 25 years old. Originally they qualified for a wife once they killed a lion. The dad chooses a good wife for his son from another family grouping. Each wife gets their own small stick and mud/cow dung hut that has been built by the women in the family.

    Danny told me that there is no jealousy or anger between family members. They live peacefully and work together with no fights. It is what they believe in. Women do whatever the men ask them to do without questioning.

    The compound is surrounded by a round fence made of sticks and brush. In the centre there is a corral for their cows. Around the corral, there are huts for wives and little children, one hut for teen girls and another for teen boys. Two huts were for baby cattle. The hut had one room with two sleeping areas and a tiny fire pit.

    Traditionally, they do not hunt or eat vegetables or fish but feed exclusively off their cattle plus cows’ milk and blood.

    Boys are circumsized in a ceremony when they are between 12-25 years old. No anaesthetic or crying out. Then he is accepted as a warrior..

    There are no outhouses or toilets. Danny told us that they just go outside of the compound in the desert. We were able to ask him many questions that he was happy to answer.

    Then it started to rain - a welcome rain in that dry spot. We went into a hunt and sat on bags of animal feed until the rain stopped. It wasn’t long. After that the ladies showed us their colourful bead work while the kids played in the puddles. We bought a couple of bracelets.

    At the end of the time we were with them, we pulled out the parachute and played a few simple games with all the kids and the men. They had a lot of fun flipping an empty water bottle into the air.

    Following the Maasai visit we went to a centre called the Tanzanite Experience. We watched a film about this gemstone, went into a simulated mine and looked at the beautiful jewelry made from this stone.

    It was a really full day! And it was hot. As soon as we got back to the hotel, we jumped into the pool. We were the only ones using it.

    There was no power at the hotel until almost dinner time. How the cooks were able to put together a full dinner was amazing. The generator kicked in and the lights came on. Dinner was ready magically.

    Then a little miracle happened. Prista, our morning guide,went back to the area where Gail figured she lot her hearing aid. She offered a reward to any kid that found it and a pile of kids went through the area with a fine tooth comb. They found it!!!! It was a good ending to a wonderful day.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp
    The chef making breakfast in his kitchenLadies doing our laundryA dam on the Mosquito River in the rice fieldsOur guide and Chris in the rice fieldThe narrow path through the paddiesInside a worker's houseIn the banana plantationWood carvingsCutting hard ebonyArtworkAfter a banana beer tasting, Connie models Broadbands tshirt in Tanzania.Women making our lunch in a banana plantation

    Lake Manyara Cultural Tour a.m.

    9. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    So much happened today that it’s hard to know where to start. Maybe at the beginning…

    The Ngedere Lodge and Camp in Mto wa Mbu is an attractive place with comfortable rooms, internet, a good restaurant and a welcoming pool. Monkeys, sheep and rabbits wander around the nicely landscaped, large property. Our laundry could be done here also. The only negative was that we didn’t have reliable power.

    At breakfast, Norton came to the hotel and then drove us to a nearby gas station where Prista, a local guide met us. She took us on a three hour walk about showing us the various activities in the village.

    We started out in a rice field, then into a big banana plantation, past vegetable gardens with tomatoes, corn, pumpkins, carrots and cabbage. The valley, the bottom of the Great Rift valley, is very fertile due to the volcanic nature of the soil and has a lot of water.

    It’s Sunday today, so churches were full of singing parishioners. Houses are huts, mainly made of sticks and mud. There are herds of cattle, goats and sheep walking along the sides of the road. People are very friendly and always acknowledging us by saying, Welcome, with a smile

    This village is made up of 120 tribes, each with their own language. It’s a perfect location for jobs so people have come here from all over.

    On our walk, we stopped into a woodworking shop where they carved intricate animals and figurines from ebony, rosewood or white mahogany - labour intensive.

    An artist showed us the three types of paintings the people did here - Tinga Tinga cartoon animals, paintings done with a palette knife and more modern animal paintings.

    We stopped in a little shelter to learn about how banana beer is made and to sample it. It was all right. Made from mashed bananas, water and millet.

    At the end of the walk, a tuktuk picked us up to take us to a ‘traditional restaurant’ in the banana plantation. The ladies cooked outdoors using large pots over a fire using local fresh produce. As tourists, we have eaten amazingly healthy foods here. Always a feast!

    While enjoying lunch, Gail realized that she had lost one of her hearing aids somewhere in the banana plantation. The guide was very concerned but knowing where we had been Gail was resigned to the fact that there was no way it would be found. One less thing to worry about…    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp
    Part of our dinner!

    Tarangire National Park Safari - Day 2

    8. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Breakfast was at the same little restaurant that we ate in last night, in the park. The little vervet monkeys entertained us as we drank a wonderful cup of coffee that was not instant, and ate our chapati, omelet and watermelon.

    Yesterday’s game drive was on the west side of the park and today’s was on the east side. People spend up to 5 days in this park, bird and animal sighting. It is so full of animals and the landscape changes as you drive around. One area is known as the Little Serengeti.

    Gail continued writing a bird and animal sighting list.

    Lunch was another hot picnic. We notice that other travellers get boxed lunches with sandwiches, bananas, cookies and drink. Our meals are actually quite amazing,

    After lunch, we drove 2 hours north to Lake Manyara. We are staying in the
    Ngedere Lodge and Camp for the next two nights. It has a big and refreshing pool that we all immediately jumped into. It is hot here!

    In our room, the bed was covered in red and pink flowers that spelled out Welcome.

    The Vervet (black-faced monkeys) are everywhere - moms carrying babies, males with blue balls and teenagers. And I mean everywhere. Beside the swimming pool, outside of our rooms, in the trees, on the walls. Everywhere.

    Dinner at the hotel was at 7:30 pm and what a dinner it was. First a creamed vegetable soup with rolls. Then several large pots were brought in - roasted potatoes in one, tomato pizza, fish in a tomato sauce, mixed steamed vegetables and salad. A banana dessert with chocolate sauce ended the meal. The chef came and spoke to us and asked if we would share the remains of the meal with the staff. There was sooo much food that it was a no brainer to say yes.

    But dessert wasn’t the end of the evening. A soccer game was on T.V. and a song, dance and amazing acrobatic group came on to perform. They were amazing! What those young men could do in a small space was incredible.

    After this, they got the diners up to dance and we all had fun trying to imitate these young and very flexible African dancers. Monkey see, monkey try to do. Haha.

    And the favourite soccer team won so everyone had a good time that night.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp
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    Tarangire National Park Safari Day 1

    7.–8. marrask., Tansania ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    More than 300 species of mammals have been recorded in Tanzania, including 80 so called big mammals. Tarangire Park is full of them and we were awed by every sighting.

    Gail kept a list of what birds and animals we saw and that included 2 sleeping lions, a mother cheetah and two cubs, lots of elephants and an assortment of zebras, buffalos, giraffes, wildebeest, warthogs, elands, impalas, antelopes, two types of mongoose on the tops of termite hills and more.

    There are more than 500 species if birds here. It is not hard to spot them as they are so plentiful - hornbills, woodpeckers, starlings, swallows, and weavers. We saw at least 20 different types of birds. Beside a watering hole, we saw a fish eagle as well as storks, herons, ducks, geese, a pelican and more. Vultures were up in the trees and Guinea fowl on the ground.

    Anyways, we spent the afternoon driving around, oohing and aweing. None of the animals are afraid of the trucks and the drivers drove carefully as the some of the animals, including elephants, would walk right up to the trucks and sniff around.

    Our jeep has a pop up roof so we can stand up to see things easier. There is a cooler in the truck filled with water, juices and even beer. Extra cushions on the seats for those bumpy parts of the roads and chargers for our cellphones in the truck.

    We stayed in a hostel in the park, the Tarangire Rest House, and were the only ones there. We had to laugh. Pat and Gail only had cold water in their room and we only had hot. The air conditioner worked but dripped all night. We had to put a towel in a garbage can to catch the drips.

    Dinner was in a park restaurant. We ate a good buffet dinner outside on a picnic table in the dark. Our light for the table was a full water bottle on top of a cellphone flashlight. Haha. It worked but not the brightest.

    When we got back to our room, we decided to put on a little uke and puppet show for our driver/guide Norton. He loved it!

    We went to bed early as we were pretty tired from all the excitement of the day.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp
    Cultural Market Arusha
    Big ArtChristmas TreeLittle girl selling a rooster by the side of the highwayElephant bonesHornbillStained glass and painted artWeaver bird nestsVervet monkey and the blue anti tsetse fly bannerBaobab tree

    On the way to Tarangire National Park

    7. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    So far we have had perfect weather, cool at night and very pleasant during the day. In altitude, Arusha is located at 1,400 meters (4,600 feet above sea level). Tarangire’s altitude ranges from approximately 900 to 1,528 meters (3,232 to 5,013 feet).

    We left our peaceful heritage house in Arusha at 9:30 a.m. to head south to Tarangere N.P. In the Central Rift Valley. This park is a world-class wildlife viewing destination best known for elephants, birds and Baobob trees.

    But first, we stopped at the Arts and Cultural Centre in Arusha to look around. It is a lovely and colourful building filled with very expensive crafts and art. We just browsed and were not pressured.

    An interesting shop displayed lovely jewelry made with blue tanzanite discovered near Arusha. Apparently, tanzanite stones are 1000 times rarer than diamonds, thus the jewelry was expensive.

    Our 2 1/2 hour drive to the park was on a good paved road. A respite from the bumpy roads we were on in the park yesterday!

    But, the land is dry and very desert-like at this time of the year, the end of the dry season. The rivers were absolutely dry. The Masai live a hard life in this area in very small huts. Men are seen walking by the side of the road with their walking sticks and watching over their very thin herds of cattle, goats and donkeys as the animals search for food amongst the cast-aside plastic water bottles and garbage.

    Gail brought 100 toothbrushes to hand out to kids. Five children trying to sell a rooster to passing motorists were the first kids to get toothbrushes.

    In towns, we saw large trees with bright red flowers on the upper branches.
    Norton told us they were called Christmas Trees.

    By the time, we got to the park, it was lunchtime so once again Norton produced a very filling hot meal. The food that we didn’t eat was given to some workers sitting at another table. They accepted it graciously.

    While we ate, we spotted a lot of birds that were new to us. Norton supplied us with names. A little Vervet mother monkey came close and we noticed that a tiny baby was clinging to her. An older baby was close by. It was interesting to watch the interactions between them.

    At the base of several trees, we have noticed small cloth banners fluttering about. Norton told us that the fabric contains a poison that kills tsetse flies. We haven’t seen any of these flies so maybe it’s working…

    There are huge Baobab trees in the picnic area. We saw a structure with stairs that let visitors check out one of these trees but it was closed off. Elephants come to baobab trees during the dry season because Baobabs store water in their trunks and bark, and elephants eat the bark and chew the woody tissue to access this stored moisture.

    At around 1 pm, we entered the park and were awestruck by the number of African birds and animals we saw! See the next blog.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp
    Flamingoes and Giraffes
    Zebras and EgretsColobus MonkeyColobus MonkeySky Blue MonkeyStrangler FigCape Buffalo skullThe four of us at the waterfall1Picnic beside the lake

    Arusha National Park

    6. marraskuuta, Tansania ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Karibu Heritage House is a wonderfully quiet and comfortable house in busy Arusha. It has a restaurant so we don’t have to look for a good place to eat. One hour before meals, we let them know what we want to eat and when and the food is ready by the set time. The choice of food has been good and it has been tasty. All of our meals are included in our trip.

    This morning we had a vegetable omelet with sausages, toast, juice and coffee at 6:30 a.m. At 7:30, Norton our new driver and guide picked us up in his Toyota Land Cruiser and we went on our first safari to Arusha National Park. Just a 45 minute drive away and in the foothills of Mt. Meru, Tanzania’s 2nd largest mountain (old volcano) after Mt. Kilimanjaro.

    Arusha National Park was established in 1960 and covers a total of 542 square kilometers. Not big but big enough for a full day for hunting for animals and birds. We drove on rough roads through a variety of habitats including a moist savannah, an evergreen rainforest and a lake area.

    It is home to the world's largest population of giraffes as well as lots of other wildlife like zebras, sky blue monkeys, baboons, black-and-white colobus monkeys, Cape buffaloes, warthogs, bushbucks, etc. There are birds galore, a birdwatcher’s paradise, with over 400 species including large groups of pink flamingoes.

    We drove around for a couple of hours, easily spotting lots of animals, and then stopped to do a 2 hour walking safari to a waterfall. For this, a park ranger with a rifle had to guide us. The trail led us past a huge herd of Cape Buffalos that enjoyed staring at us as much as we enjoyed staring at them. We passed ancient Strangler fig trees. The trees begin their life as a tiny seed, often deposited high in the branches of another tree by a bird or monkey. From there, it grows downward, sending roots toward the ground while also climbing upward to reach the sunlight. Over time, these roots envelop the host tree, eventually “strangling” it and taking its place in the forest canopy.

    After the hike we had a picnic beside one of the seven shallow, alkaline Momella Lakes. Norton brought out a huge insulated bag with 5 pots in it. They contained a hot chicken stew, rice, baked beans, fried bananas and watermelon slices. Quite a picnic.

    We continued driving around the lakes looking for interesting waterfowl and then wound our way through the forest and headed back to the hotel, close to 10 hours after we had left.

    A quick swim in the pool cooled us off before we ate a tasty dinner and made plans for the following day.

    P.S. It was only a week ago that the election protests had taken place but everything seems to back to normal.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp
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    1

    To Arusha

    5.–7. marrask., Tansania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    A hot breakfast was offered to us at 6 a.m. and Victor was there to pick us up at 6:30 a.m. Everyone has been so punctual. The only ‘African Time’ so far has been with getting meals.

    Anyways, we were happy to leave the hotel as it was in the heart of the big city and we were anxious to get out into the country.

    The 5 hour drive was easy and city views changed to views of Maasai people walking on the side of the road with their herds of cattle, goats or sheep. High rise apartments disappeared and rolling grassy hills and low mountains were on the horizon.

    After 3 hours we arrived at the border of Kenya and Tanzania and were stamped in following paying $50 each for visas. It was a simple process. A new driver, Calvin, picked us up.

    Two hours later we were in our hotel, the Karibu Heritage House, in Arusha. It is a lovely green place with a swimming pool and gardens. The power was out but it wasn’t due to protests, it was because a big maribu stork got electrocuted near the hotel and caused a failure. Poor thing.

    The hotel has a restaurant so we had a pleasant lunch. We were told that we would be met by Pius, our original contact from the tour company, later in the afternoon.

    We were offered a tour of Arusha - the city, local markets, Maasai market, Cultural Heritage Centre, etc. but we were tired of sitting while driving around. We felt that we just wanted to go for a swim in the hotel pool and chill, so that’s what we did.

    So Pius and Hamis met us and we discussed the Tanzania plan. All is in place except for getting back to Nairobi to catch the plane back home. We have a few alternatives. Drive back or fly to Nairobi from either Arusha or Zanzibar. TurkishAir wants too much to change our flights again.

    Anyways, we are happy here and start on a safari early tomorrow morning with our guide Norton.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp

    Nairobi - Day 2 Another Change in Plans

    4. marraskuuta, Kenia

    A new day and in an unexpected place - Nairobi. The new plan included doing safaris in Kenya, not Tanzania because of the political unrest.

    Today, the plan was to meet with our driver/guide, Victor, after breakfast and he would take us to the Nairobi National Museum. There we met with a museum guide that took us through five halls with some very interesting exhibits.
    1. Hall of Kenya with photos showing Kenya’s rich history and culture
    2. Cradle of Humankind exhibit with the Turkana Boy fossil.
    3. Bee Exhibition
    4. Hall of Kenyan Mammals with life-sized animal models
    5. Hall with hundreds of stuffed Birds of Kenya

    Right beside the museum was a Snake and Reptile Park. We wandered around this park looking at the live fish, snakes (mambas, vipers, boa constrictors, puff adders, cobras) as well as tortoises, and crocodiles of Kenya. The snake pit was really fascinating and full of all kinds of snakes and lizards. Somewhat creepy…

    We drove through the Nairobi’s slum area called Kibera. It’s the largest slum in Nairobi and one of the largest in Africa, with a population estimated to be well over 170,000 people based on the 2009 census, though some estimates range up to over one million people. It faces issues like poor sanitation and extreme poverty. So sad that people have to live like this.

    The highlight of the day for all of us was a visit to the Nairobi Giraffe Centre, where we could interact with several endangered Rothschild giraffes, by hand feeding them from a raised viewing deck. They are such gentle animals and it was a joy to watch them in this caring place. Warthogs with two very small babies wandered around under the giraffe’s feet. (Pumbaa and Timon).

    We had a late lunch under a new and attractive palapa restaurant next to the Centre. We have learned that meals take a long time to make as the food here is made from scratch. Usual waiting time is 1 hour but the food is tasty and healthy.

    We met Paul at the hotel after our tour and wouldn’t you know it, our plans have changed again. Since Tanzania has gained its power and internet back, things are back to normal again. Stores and banks have opened and our tour planners feel confident that we will be safe so we are heading back to Tanzania to continue with our original tour. The tour in Kenya has been put on the back burner.

    So, Victor will drive us to the border and someone else will be there to meet us to take us to Arusha. About a 5 hour journey by car.

    We are going with the flow and are truly taken care of. What an amazing company we chose!    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp

    Day 1 in Nairobi

    3. marraskuuta, Kenia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Last night ended up by being a travel night for us, not to Kilimanjaro airport that is still unsafe due to the unrest in Tanzania, but to Nairobi where we will make new safari plans.

    Turkish Airlines provided a shuttle from the Hampton Hotel, where they paid for accommodation and all of our meals, right to the airport (normally $50 U.S).

    On the way, we were in a mild accident so had to stop while the driver of both vehicles and the police talked and did some paperwork. We still got to the airport in time though.

    As we were getting ready to board, we were asked for our E Visas for Kenya. Hmmmn. We didn’t have visas. Or know that we were supposed to have them before boarding. It was too short of time to apply for a visa so the officer let us on the plane and wished us luck in Kenya.

    The flight was cramped and noisy, but overall good and we arrived in Nairobi at 3 a.m.

    We explained why we didn’t have an EVisa (ETA) and the officer was very understanding. We paid him directly and he stamped us in. It was a pretty easy process. I think we paid him $5 U.S. more each for doing it this way, but we didn’t have the hassle of doing it online. Our total was $140 for the four of us.

    A car was waiting for us to take us to the Kije hotel. By 5 a.m., we were in bed fast asleep! The hotel is not a Hampton or Movenpick but a clean 16 story building with great views of Nairobi. Our contact, Paul, was in contact with us via WhatsApp, all the way.

    After 3 hours of sleep, we met and had a good breakfast in the hotel restaurant. We didn’t have to pay for it. Breakfast is included.

    Paul is meeting with us at 4 pm to replan the itinerary. In the meantime, we found an ATM for some Kenyan shillings, organized for laundry to be done, had lunch, rested a bit and spent a little time in the top floor lounge before meeting with Paul.

    It has been a productive and positive day and we look forward to seeing the possibilities of a new trip that Paul will be suggesting.    Lue lisää

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  • LadyandtrampTanzania and ZanzibarLadyandtramp

    A Change in Plans

    2. marraskuuta, Turkki ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Tanzania has just had an election and the country revolted! The consulates are posting messages like the following -

    “Protests

    General elections took place in Tanzania on 29 October and have not yet concluded.

    Following protests and unrest in some parts of the country, the Tanzanian police announced a curfew effective from 6pm-6am local time on 29 October which remains in place in on the mainland. Protests are ongoing in parts of the country with some turning violent, including live fire.

    There are widespread road blockades and closures nationwide, although the situation remains fluid. Many international flights have been cancelled to and from Nyerere International Airport, Dar es Salaam.

    Arusha International Airport and Kilimanjaro International Airport appear to be partially operational. Some international and domestic flights to and from Zanzibar airport have been cancelled. There are no ferries running from Dar es Salaam to Zanzibar. The SGR rail service is also not running. Check with your airline or travel provider for the latest information before travelling to airports or other transport hubs.”

    The internet is down and our travel company advised us not to go to Arusha. They suggested meeting us in Nairobi, Kenya.

    Turkish Airlines didn’t send us notification of flight cancellations (even though protesters stormed the airport and vehicles and buildings were on fire. Of course we were not going into that mess!

    We went back to the airport and were issued new tickets for Nairobi with a return to Toronto on November 24. Turkish Airlines gave us a free night in the Hampton by Hilton close to the fancy hotel we stayed in (so we could pick up our luggage easily) as well as three meals and a shuttle to and from the hotel.

    So one more day in Istanbul and a new trip to be planned starting in Nairobi.    Lue lisää

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