Lesoto
Lesoto

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    • Día 18

      Country number 55

      24 de mayo de 2023, Lesoto ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Before we reached the border, we stopped to use the toilet and buy supplies. The border crossing was straightforward. We have another stamp in our passports and are now in country #55!

      We entered Lesotho, aka the Kingdom in the Sky, via the capital, Maseru. The difference between here and South Africa was immediately apparent. Lesotho is obviously much poorer than its neighbour and so much more ‘African’. It immediately reminded me of Ethiopia with countless roadside stalls made from old containers or corrugated panels cobbled together. The men were all wrapped in traditional blankets.Leer más

    • Día 18

      The road to Malealea

      24 de mayo de 2023, Lesoto ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      We drove for a couple of hours through a continuation of the Drakensburg Mountains. The scenery was stunning. We turned off the main road when we saw a sign that read Malealea Lodge (our home for the next two nights) 7km. We thought to ourselves ‘Oh, good – we’re nearly there!’ How wrong we were!! The 7km felt more like 70!! We were truly off-roading. We passed a sign that clearly warned us of the road conditions ahead (see the photo attached to this footprint!). Ernest did a sterling job of navigating the numerous potholes and tyre ruts, but it still took us over an hour to successfully cover the 7km.Leer más

    • Día 18

      Malealea Lodge

      24 de mayo de 2023, Lesoto ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      Once we arrived at the lodge, we were greeted by Bob, the manager, who explained everything to us and showed us around. Our accommodation was in traditionally furnished and decorated roundhouses. They were not as luxurious as the ones at our previous lodge, and they didn’t have any heating, but they had basic ensuite bathrooms and were comfortable enough.Leer más

    • Día 18

      First Lesothan beer!

      24 de mayo de 2023, Lesoto ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      We settled in and went to have a look around. Like the last place, there was plenty of unique artwork. They also had an interesting take on recycling, turning rubbish into tables, feature walls, and even a bottle labyrinth. It was all really good!

      We sat outside the bar with a drink and met the owner, Jackie, who asked us how we liked the place. Her parents were born in Lesotho, so she is 3rd generation Lesothan.
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    • Día 18

      A beautiful choir

      24 de mayo de 2023, Lesoto ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      At 5pm, a local youth choir came to sing for us. They perform every evening. Today, we were the lodge’s only guests so we were a very small audience! The choir sang superbly. We all tipped them generously.Leer más

    • Día 18

      Entertained by a band

      24 de mayo de 2023, Lesoto ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      The choir was followed by a band, Soto, who played homemade instruments, sang, and danced. Again, they were excellent. We gave them tips, but didn’t buy their CD as none of us have anything to play them on anymore!

      By the time the show had finished, it was 6pm, almost dark, and extremely cold! Mark was feeling it in his back and legs. We went straight to the kitchen/dining area where Ivan and Ernest had made a very welcome fire. We warmed ourselves around that until dinner was ready. Ivan had made a chicken and vegetable stew with rice, just the thing for such a cold evening.

      After dinner, we sat around the fire chatting until it was time to turn it in. Our room felt freezing after the warmth of the dining area! However, there were enough covers and blankets to make for a comfortable night’s sleep.
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    • Día 19

      A village walk

      25 de mayo de 2023, Lesoto ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

      This morning, the sun was up early and it didn’t feel as cold as yesterday. We had a free day today so it was an 8.30am breakfast. We were all up well before that, though and were grateful that Ivan had already got the kettle on! For breakfast, he prepared bacon, French toast, and baked beans with onions. It was delicious!

      After breakfast, Timo and Kristina did an optional hike with René and a guide, Dave, to see some San rock paintings in a local cave. It was a three-hour hike. Mark and I chose to stay at the lodge. When they got back, Kristina said it had been a tough walk and that the paintings were not as impressive as the ones we will see in Namibia, so we didn’t feel that we’d missed out on anything.

      We had lunch at the bar with Timo and Kristina. We all ordered toasted cheese and tomato sandwiches made with local flatbread called Sephaphata. They were very tasty!

      After lunch, we met up with Dave again for a walk through the local village. Mark gave it a miss as he was still in a lot of pain. Dave proved to be a very informative and entertaining guide. He explained all about traditional Basotho culture as we walked.

      Our first stop was at a local shop where we bought biscuits and sweets for the local children. These soon disappeared as we continued our walk around the village!

      Dave explained his story to us, how he had left the village after primary school to go to a boarding school in the capital, Maseru. This was paid for by his Dad (his Mum had died when he was only three). After school, he attended university but was unable to complete his degree as his Dad died when he was halfway through! So, he returned to the village and has worked as a guide for the lodge ever since.
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    • Día 19

      Tasting the local brew

      25 de mayo de 2023, Lesoto ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

      We went to see one of the village brewers. These are all ladies. They brew a local beer using hops grown in South Africa. They add sogum and allow the brew to ferment for between one and three days, depending on how hot the weather is. They make batches of 25 litres at a time. When a batch is ready, the lady displays a yellow flag to indicate to everyone in the village that she has beer available to buy. People (both men and women) come to her brewhouse to drink. She charges 5 rand (about 30p) for a mug. The lady we met explained that she only learned how to brew when her husband died in 2003, and she needed to find a way to pay her bills and raise her children. We all tasted her brew. I have to say it’s an acquired taste! I did buy some to take back for Mark to try – I didn’t want him to miss out!!

      As well as the yellow flags, there are other flags flown in the village. White indicates that someone has corn 🌽 beer ready, green denotes vegetables for sale, and red means that the house has meat available.
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    • Día 19

      Meeting the village chief

      25 de mayo de 2023, Lesoto ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

      Our next stop was at the chief’s house. Ben (his anglicised name) explained what his duties are. As chief, he has to settle any neighbour disputes. His word is final. He can also allocate land for anyone born in Lesotho to build a house in the village. There is no charge for the land and, if someone decides to leave the village, they can sell the house for a profit! However, there is no running water in the village, so residents have to live with hardships.

      Ben declined to have his picture 📸 taken, so I only have a photo of his house! 😀
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    • Día 19

      Funeral customs, Lesothan style

      25 de mayo de 2023, Lesoto ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

      We then paused at the village cemetery. Dave explained to us what happens when someone dies. A funeral and burial is very expensive, so to allow the family time to organise the finances, the deceased is taken to a mortuary where he or she is kept for 30 days. After this time, the body is brought home. This only happens on a Friday. Over the weekend, a cow and a sheep are slaughtered, and everyone in the village feasts. A grave is dug, and the men known to the deceased, accompanied by the village chief and a priest, perform a ceremony before the burial. The following day, any women related to the dead person attend the grave. If a widow survives her husband, she dresses in black for a period of six months from the day she visits the grave. When the six month period is over, another cow and another sheep are killed, and the period of mourning is officially over. This is the custom for all those who die, apart from children who die in infancy.

      At the end of the walk, we should have visited the local handicraft centre, but it was closed. However, after we had returned to the lodge, and I had gone for a shower, Bob came to tell me that the guy with the key had been found and we could go and have a look at the crafts. So we did. I bought a couple of pot stands made from covered bottle tops, similar to the one I bought in the Gambia, and later copied for Sharon in Tobago. They are really nice and didn’t cost much money. I also bought some multi-purpose cream made locally from blue agave plants and some lemongrass-scented soap. It’s nice to be able to support local enterprise, albeit in a very small way.

      Later, the choir came to sing for us again. We were still the only guests staying at the lodge, so at first, we didn’t go to listen to the performance, but then we felt guilty and went anyway! It was very cold, so they didn’t sing for long. The band didn’t turn up tonight, so we tipped the choir and went indoors to the fire!
      Ivan had cooked roast beef tonight. He served it with roast potatoes, vegetables, and spicy chakkalakka. We certainly don’t go hungry on this trip!

      After dinner, Timo and Kristina went to the bar with Ivan to watch the Man United/Chelsea game (Ivan is a huge Chelsea fan!). We stayed in the dining room until the fire had died down and then went back to our room to listen to a couple of podcasts before bed.
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    También podrías conocer este lugar por los siguientes nombres:

    Kingdom of Lesotho, Lesotho, Lɛsutu, ሌሶቶ, Lesoto, ليسوتو, Lesothu, Лесота, Лесото, লেসোথো, ལེ་སོ་ཐོ།, Lɛsoto nutome, Λεσότο, لسوتو, Lesothô, Leosóta, Leasoto, લેસોથો, לסוטו, लेसोथो, Լեսոտո, Lesótó, レソト王国, ლესოტო, លើសូតូ, ಲೆಥೋಸೊ, 레소토, لەسۆتۆ, Lesothum, Lesoso, ເລໂຊໂທ, Lesotas, Лешото, ലെസോത്തോ, ଲେସୋଥୋ, Lesòto, Lesôtho, Losooto, லெசோதோ, లెసోతో, เลโซโท, لېسوتو, لیسوتھو, Lê-xô-thô (Lesotho), Sutuvän, Orílẹ́ède Lesoto, 莱索托, i-Lesotho

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