Overlanding Through Africa

May - September 2023
This is the big one - the trip we have been planning since before the pandemic! We will be overlanding from South Africa 🇿🇦 to Kenya 🇰🇪 passing through 9 other countries and taking four months. Read more
  • 397footprints
  • 12countries
  • 125days
  • 5.3kphotos
  • 172videos
  • 21.9kmiles
  • 11.2kmiles
  • Day 1

    The big adventure begins!

    May 7, 2023 on the Seychelles ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Today, we are leaving Mahe after almost three weeks of sun, sand, and relaxation. It's been amazing, but we are ready to move on to the next part of the adventure.

    And this is the big one!! I can't believe the day is finally here! We started planning our Africa overlanding trip years ago and first booked it in autumn 2019 with a departure date set for September 2020. For well-known reasons I don't need to go into 😂, it didn't happen! We kept our booking and made the best of our unexpected time in the UK by managing a campsite near York for a couple of seasons. Eighteen months ago, Dragoman, the company we had originally booked with, contacted us to say that they were mothballing the company for the foreseeable future. They refunded us the money we had already paid. Disappointed but undeterred, we looked around for a trip which would be as close as possible to what we had planned. We settled on three Intrepid tours, with stops in between. Later, we added the cheeky three weeks in the Seychelles before our overlanding adventure begins.

    And, finally, today is the day!!

    Our itinerary for the next few months looks something like this:

    - 1 week in Johannesburg.
    - 3 weeks on the Kruger, Coast, and Cape Tour, visiting South Africa, Eswatini, and Lesotho.
    - 3 weeks in Cape Town.
    - 6 weeks on the Cape Town to Zanzibar tour, visiting South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Malawi, and Tanzania.
    - 2 weeks in Zanzibar.
    10 days on the Stone Town to Nairobi tour, visiting Kenya 🇰🇪 and Tanzania 🇹🇿.
    2 weeks in Kenya, including a safari to the Masai Mara.

    19 weeks, 10 countries, 6 capital cities, 24 national parks, and one natural wonder of the world in total! To say we're excited is an understatement. So long in the planning, let the adventure begin!!

    Our five-hour flight ✈️ from the Seychelles to Johannesburg with Air Seychelles was smooth and uneventful. Fortunately, unlike our inbound flight, we had a window seat so I was able to take some photos 📸 as we left Mahe. The island 🏝 looked stunning in the glorious sunshine 🌞.
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  • Day 1

    Arriving at OR Tambo International

    May 7, 2023 in South Africa

    We were served lunch on our flight ✈️. I had fish with rice, and Mark had chicken with potatoes. Both were surprisingly good. We both had South African wine to accompany the meal - it would have been rude not to!

    We landed in a rather cloudy Johannesburg a little later than scheduled. We had left Mahe in 32° and sunshine and arrived in South Africa 🇿🇦 in 18° and cloud ☁️. At least the forecast rain didn't materialise.
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  • Day 1

    Transfer to our hotel

    May 7, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We had organised a taxi transfer to our hotel. Our driver, Norman, started messaging me while we were still on the plane! We liaised while we were going through security and baggage reclaim (all very painless), and, as we emerged from the terminal, he pulled up, ready to drive us to our hotel in Rosebank. Perfect timing!

    Norman was very friendly, and the journey passed quickly. Everywhere looked very familiar - drive on the left, all the signs in English, etc.

    We were a little early for check-in when we arrived at Park Central Hotel and Residence, but the staff were all very friendly and helpful while we were waiting.

    Once our room was ready, we made our way to the 15th floor! Our accommodation is a studio apartment with a Smeg kitchen and plenty of space. The views over the city are incredible!!

    Norman had warned us not to be out after dark, so we just dumped our bags and made our way to the nearest supermarket, which he had helpfully pointed out to us 😀. It's in the Rosebank shopping mall, about a 10-minute walk from here. It was really well stocked, and the prices were very reasonable (especially when compared to Seychelles!). We bought breakfast basics and a roast chicken for dinner.

    It was a sunny afternoon 😎. Everyone we spoke to was very friendly. We felt very safe. Our first impressions of Johannesburg are all positive!
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  • Day 2

    Hop-on, hop-off bus

    May 8, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    The forecast today was for 90 - 95% chance of heavy rain 🌧 all day! It was unfortunate, but we had pre-booked two-day tickets for the hop-on, hop-off bus 🚌, so we had to go for it!

    We headed out after breakfast and followed Google Maps to the starting point for the bus. It was only an 11-minute walk from our hotel. It wasn't raining, and the sun was trying to poke through 😀. Several people wished us a good morning as we walked. Once Google Maps told us we had arrived, it wasn't clear where the bus stop was, so I asked someone. He could have just told us, but instead, he took us there! While we were standing there checking our phones📱for bus times, a lady came out of the nearby Holiday Inn to warn us about keeping our phones hidden in public so as not to attract opportunistic thieves. She advised us that the bus office was just around the corner and directed us there. Despite the warnings about our safety, everyone we have met so far has been so helpful. No wonder they call Johannesburg the friendly city!!

    At the bus office, we collected our tickets and arranged to do the included Soweto tour tomorrow when the weather forecast is better. When the bus was due, a member of staff actually escorted us to the stop and made sure we were safely on board!

    Because of the expected rain 🌧, we decided that today we would just stay on the bus 🚌 and do both the green and red routes. That way, we could get our bearings and plan the rest of our week in the city.

    So, that's what we did. The rain held off for the first part of the route, so we took some photos 📸. The audio commentary was excellent. We learned a lot about the city.

    Johannesburg is a relatively new city. It was founded in 1886 when gold ✨️ was discovered here. The settlement was named after two officials of the Zuid-Afrikaansche Republiek (ZAR), Christian Johannes Joubert and Johannes Rissik, who both worked in land surveying and mapping. The two men combined the name they shared, adding 'burg', the archaic Afrikaans word for 'fortified city'. The city is also known by its Zulu name, eGoli, meaning 'city of gold'. Colloquially, the city is also known as Joburg or Jozi.

    When gold was first discovered, Johannesburg began as a tented ⛺️ shanty town. It has come a long way since then. The city is now the richest in South Africa with higher salaries than anywhere else in the country. As it has throughout its history, it still attracts entrepreneurs and those seeking a better life. Today, Johannesburg is the financial powerhouse of Africa.

    The city's success is surprising. On paper, its location is not ideal for a town, never mind a huge metropolis. There is no reliable water supply nearby. Water has to be pumped 360 kilometres from Lesotho 🇱🇸! Johannesburg is also located at an altitude of 1700 metres, making it uncomfortable for some people to be here. Despite the difficulties, it is now the largest city in the world 🌎 not built on a lake, river, or coast and boasts one of the best climates on earth.

    Johannesburg is an extremely green city. 10 million trees 🌳 were planted, making it the largest man-made forest in the world 🌎. One of the trees the city is famous for is the jacaranda. When it flowers in October and November, there is a carpet of purple flowers over swathes of the city. This phenomenon won't exist in 50 years' time. The jacaranda is a non-native species that was introduced from South America. It uses far too much water to be sustainable in Johannesburg. As the trees die off naturally, they won't be replaced.

    Halfway through our tour, the heavens opened. We were sitting upstairs on the bus 🚌 under the cover at the front, so we stayed dry, but the rain put paid to our photography 📸!

    We arrived back at Rosebank at around 12.30pm and went for lunch at Yalla, a Middle-Eastern café. The food was excellent, but the portions were huge - we couldn't finish it!

    By the time we'd had lunch, the rain had stopped, so we were able to get back to the apartment without getting wet.

    We spent the rest of the afternoon and evening writing posts (I've finally been released from Facebook jail!), catching up with the Coronation concert from yesterday, and watching Netflix. We've never had Netflix before, but it's included in the apartment 😀).

    The photos 📸 attached to this footprint are of the bus, some sculptures in Rosebank Mall, and the view of the approaching storm from our apartment window when we got back this afternoon!
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  • Day 3

    Another day, another bus ride

    May 9, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    The weather promised to be much better today with 0% rain forecast, so we were up early to catch the first tourist bus 🚌 of the day, which was due to leave Rosebank Mall at 9am.

    The first stop on the route was at Melrose Arch, a newly built district in Johannesburg. The area was developed as an example of modern city living with accommodation, shops, fitness, and entertainment venues linked by walkways decorated with interesting sculptures. We didn't get off the bus, but we did take a few photos.

    Next, we stopped at the Munro Drive viewpoint for panoramic views over the city.
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  • Day 3

    Gold Reef City and the Calabash

    May 9, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    At the Gold Reef City stop, we transferred to a smaller bus for our tour of Soweto.

    The first stop was at the FNB soccer ⚽️ stadium, where the 2010 FIFA World Cup opening and closing ceremonies were held. Nelson Mandela's memorial service was also held here.

    The stadium 🏟 is known locally as 'The Calabash' as it resembles the clay pot used to brew and serve the local beer given to guests when they visit.
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  • Day 3

    Soweto tour

    May 9, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    I was really looking forward to our tour of Soweto. The place has been in my consciousness since I was a teenager and first became aware of the struggle against apartheid. I had an idea in my mind of what Soweto would be like. I was interested to see how the reality compared.

    Our guide, DT, was from the Orlando East District of Soweto. On the way to the township, he told us about the city and his experience of growing up, living, and working there.

    Soweto (South West Townships) was created in the 1930s when the white government started separating blacks from whites. Blacks were moved away from Johannesburg to an area separated from white suburbs by a so-called cordon sanitaire or sanitary corridor made up of undeveloped fields and wasteland. This was carried out using the infamous Urban Areas Act of 1923.

    There was already a settlement on the site of present-day Soweto. It was a legacy of Johannesburg's gold-mining and brick manufacturing history when 100,000 people had descended on the area seeking their fortunes. A huge number of ramshackle homes had been built. The city developed randomly with no infrastructure and little organisation.

    Over time, Soweto became the largest black city in South Africa, but until 1976, its population could only have status as temporary residents, serving as a workforce for Johannesburg. The city experienced civil unrest during the Apartheid regime. There were serious riots in 1976, sparked by a ruling that Afrikaans be used in African schools there. The riots were violently suppressed, with 176 striking students killed and more than 1,000 injured. Reforms followed, but riots flared up again in 1985 and continued until the first non-racial elections were held in April 1994.

    Today, Soweto covers an area of over 200 square kilometres and is home to over 1.5 million people. The population is still predominantly black (98.5%), and the first language of the township is Zulu. The city has 200 schools and is beginning to break its reliance on Johannesburg as its main source of employment. Businesses are growing within the township.

    Having said this, many of Soweto's residents are amongst the poorest in South Africa, earning on average a quarter of their compatriots living in Johannesburg. There are, however, many wealthier Sowetans, as shown in the number of larger, newly-built houses.

    Soweto is mostly composed of old "matchbox" houses, four-room houses built by the government to provide cheap accommodation for black workers during apartheid. Many people who still live in matchbox houses have improved and expanded their homes, and the City Council has enabled the planting of more trees and the improving of parks and green spaces in the area.

    Hostels are another prominent feature of Soweto. Originally built to house male migrant workers, many have been improved as dwellings for couples and families.

    The result of all of this is that our first impressions of Soweto are that it is much more gentrified than we expected. Look below the surface, and you will see the poverty and catch sight of those who still live in makeshift accommodation. DT told us that these people are mostly illegals or drug addicts. He suggested that the problems Soweto has today are the same as any large city anywhere in the world. For him, it is home, and the strong sense of community he has with his neighbours means that he would never want to live anywhere else.
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