Une, dos, three

Last night, when we thought we were going to Roncesvalles today, we decided to treat ourselves to luggage transfer today as it's going to be quite hot, the Napoleon pass is quite steep, and eight euros each feels like a number we could incredulously celebrate investing approximately once every three metres.

Lest our bags end up more seasoned pilgrims than us, I planted myself outside the luggage office in the dark to be first in line when they opened at 7, and because cancellation wouldn't get us a refund, changed the destination to Valcarlos. I put up such a fight, you'll simply have to believe me.

FORCED to travel without packs, we set about adding weight by virtue of getting our money's worth at breakfast - at which we were seated opposite Kate from Tranmere, a suburb of Hobart. Honestly.

At 7:45, offeth we setteth, savouring the cool morning.Read more