Roncesvalles

Branna told me when we were walking today the photo I posted of the Roncesvalles albergue covered in snow on my initial approach was the first time she thought wow, that's really cool. There's a self depreciating joke to be made about her referring to anything I've ever done, but if I make it she'll get the hump so I shan't. For the second day in a row, the approach was different so I'm starting to suspect I took a few cute little liberties in round one, but I plead snow obscuring signs your honour.

After our mandatory and delicious conks, we checked in at 1pm, navigating the QR code process they have introduced presumably to streamline the process but from what we can see is doing anything but. Bizarrely access to the sleeping area and bathrooms was restricted until 2pm, so I perched downstairs in an armchair directing every second asshole - something about me really screams How Can I Help You.

Some wonderful downtime in our quad with Marianne and Robert, French friends in their 60s or so, that paid us the perfect amount of attention i.e. quite little, but warm. Branna wrote her update about today's walk and I napped. On waking, she brought me up to speed on the Americans in the next quad (insufferable) and I did everything possible to avoid eye contact with Robert's untethered testicles as he rubbed cream after heavily scented cream into his legs and feet.

Pilgrim dinner at 7pm, where we both went with pasta and trout in lieu of salad and chicken. There was also v nice bread, wine, and an icecream thing. I didn't take a photo as I was preoccupied trying to work out which one the irate waitress had poisoned.

Choofed straight into mass at 8pm, handshakey bit still fabulous, but this time rivalled by a special pilgrim blessing. Peace be with you!

Tomorrow it's a top of 13 degrees, can't tell you how excited we are. Thanks JC, looking out already.Read more