Hiya

I'm out of shape (physically and mentally) but - we're back baby! I've come to Japan to become a dual pilgrim.
The Kumano Kodo is linked with Camino de Santiago as UNESCO recognised ways to fartRead more
Steep innit

A measly four kilometres of walking today, which I've spent the last few months quietly writing off without ever having looked at the map. Quite a bit of elevation in the first kilometre it turns out.Read more
Vapes only

Outside Takahara

With not much left to go we came out of the woods into rural back roads, sweetly adorned and with incredible views of the valley. At the edge of our destination town, a lovely shrine.
Rest stop

Made it! This is the rest stop in Takahara, it has a vending machine, toilet, pay phone, little stall shop, and most critically, cat. Also has views out the wazoo. We got a cold drink and relaxed inRead more
Full board

Dinner, breakfast and lunch included, Guest House Noko Noko is topping off a pretty unbelievable day. I'm so knackered I might just have a little kip on my keyboard. More as it happens my loves, rollRead more
Ohayo gozaimasu

Clocked a cat within three metres of the door on our morning walk, VERY good start, you can see him there crouching in the garden - didn't want a bar of us but then maybe he'd just got up and who canRead more
Takahara to Chikatsuyu

We had to do a bit of planning before this trip, but I'd emphasise that it focused on logistics rather than experience, leaving lots of room for surprise and delight.
Amongst the logistics was anRead more
Pocari sweat time

We got into town at 1.30, and couldn't check in until 3 but mooched happily down to the little shop zone and river, which the woman running Noko Noko said was beautiful and she's right.
The river

Absolutely lousy with dragonflies! We sat on the rocks with our feet in the water and read their Wikipedia page. They're territorial apparently, but they weren't bothered by us.
Happiness Annex #3

We carved up the dates and booked half each, so the first few nights are a complete surprise to James and I'll get that joy later on. I'm starting off WELL, just quietly. We soaked ourselves in aRead more
Breakfast and some paper

Included in our accommodation was a voucher for breakfast and a lunchbox at a nearby cafe, the latter particularly useful when you're walking through the forest. It was charming and cluttered and weRead more
Chikatsuyu to Hongu pt.1

Big'un today, so we got cracking after only one (1) nervous wee each. Started with three kilometres to T-oji that we would have walked yesterday had there been any accommodation available, andRead more
Chikatsuyu to Hongu pt.2

The plod continued.
Mountain crab et. al.

Snake. Monkey. Hornet. Frog. Dog. Spider. Snail. All seen today, all photographed at extremely close range by the 8 year old boy I'm travelling with (except monkey). Yet nothing prepared us - nothingRead more
Bear based friendship

A few hours into the day we pulled over to yield to a tiny woman motoring up behind us at alarming pace, bear bell tinkling at her hip. We'd seen her earlier at a shrine, and were on smiling terms.Read more
Chikatsuyu to Hongu pt.3

After crab shrine (this trip might turn into BC and AC) it was rural roads then very sandy trails until reaching Hongu. Some clever people had set out the very roadside stalls selling drinks etc I'dRead more
Hongu Taisha

This is the first of the three major shrines that make up the Kumano Kodo, it's very impressive. Please google it. Coming into town a man pulled his Audi over (unusual to see European cars here, muchRead more
Blue Sky Guest House

More goals kicked by L. Magill. She's looking good for the Brownlow. Stool in the shower got a workout, we were cooked.
Dual pilgrim

The Camino in Spain and the Kumano Kodo in Japan are really chummy. That relationship is way more pronounced on this end, where the opportunity to be a dual pilgrim is made clear from the outset. DualRead more
Hongu to Yunomine Onsen

To allow for a sleep in, breakfast, dual pilgrimage registration, looking properly at the main shrine, and a bit of recovery, today's walk was a mere 2.5km to nearby spa town Yunomine Onsen. Turns outRead more
First noodles of trip

Today is the first day we're on our own for lunch and haven't we done well here. Two bowls of udon, mine with an egg and fish cakes, James' with ume (salted plum) which just about blew his ears off.
Onsen tamago

There's a little hut in the middle of the hot spring river here, and it houses the Tsubo-yu, the only UNESCO listed bathhouse in the world. It fits one or two people, the water is up to 91 degrees andRead more
Yunomine Onsen

Rest of the town absolutely fuggo, isn't it. It absolutely has a scent though. Worryingly, we can't notice it as much as before, which must mean we have taken it on and reek of egg.
Traveler
Chuckle 🤭
TravelerCan't wait to follow this pilgrimage, love your writing Lexie 😍
TravelerOkay I am starting here at the beginning and am definitely not viewing on work-time! Prepare for many notifications!
Traveler🥰🥰🥰🥰