• Penny Phillips
  • Penny Phillips

Windows on the world

Windows on the world - a sequel to our continuing adventures around the world, making memories and once again celebrating our fortunate lifestyle in places both familiar and new. Weiterlesen
  • A busy week, a new car

    7.–11. Sept. in Frankreich ☁️ 31 °C

    It was a busy week, as the electrician arrived so there was plenty of 'google translate' and sign language as we interpreted my lighting plans in conjunction with several panicked phone calls from the UK regarding changes in light fittings, reduction of downlights etc. My brain was fried! Then there was the delivery of the tiles, advised for Tuesday AM , but not eventuating till 3pm! It was a long day.

    Feeling optimistic that everything was in order, on Wednesday morning we headed to Bordeaux to drop of our current Peugeot 308 and replace it with a new 180 day lease Peugeot 2008. The former is a fire engine red, sporty 5-door just like we had in 2024. Unfortunately, despite all the bells and whistles, it’s very low to the ground and uncomfortable to get in and out of. Our new 2008 is still a 5-door but narrower and shorter and much higher off the ground. Bliss for us! But there is one drawback. It is ' battleship grey' - Roger's description and pretty accurate too!

    The delightful Irish lady, Diedra welcomed us like old friends and was up for a long chat. Their office was literally 200 metres from fire front at Bordeaux airport, and sadly this was where the two pompieres lost their lives. Diedra and her French husband, Brien continued to have clients arriving to collect lease cars throughout the fires, as the airport was not closed, so they spent hours taking the long route round the fires, negotiating with Hotels providing airport transfers, and staying 'undercover' - lights out etc to avoid being evacuated. She would be one of those staff members you wouldn't want to lose.

    We returned to our Bordeaux Cosy BnB for the night and enjoyed a tram ride into the old town, a couple of pre dinner drinks and dinner at Frida. Great tapas and nice wine. Next morning our BnB provided a cooked breakfast, then we slowly headed home. We took the tourist route out to the coast, stopping at Mescheurs-sur-Gironde, another 'star' on my google maps, where there are some very unique fishermen's cabins known as carralettes hanging from the side of the limestone cliffs. Sadly 90% of the cabins were destroyed in a wild storm in December 1999 and a further 70 % in storm Xanthia in February 2010. Our final stop was at Royan, a large seaside town at the mouth of the Gironde estuary, where we had oysters and a cold seafood platter. A very early night followed.

    By the end of the week, the doors are installed and the sidelight windows are in; plaster sheets are up on the ceiling and the scaffolding has been erected ready for the external rendering. We figure next week will be busy.
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  • Harvesting our backyard bounty

    12.–18. Sept. in Frankreich ☁️ 24 °C

    Courtesy chef Roger......... Our wild grapes that cover the laundry have deep purple berries and a plan is hatched to pick them, despite the wasps, hornets, bees and yellow jackets that buzz about. Four huge stock pots are filled to overflowing and the plan is to make grape and pear chutney and some grape juice that can be mixed with something alcoholic to make cocktails. Never a dull moment here at LPR.

    We collect pears from our pear tree, bay leaf from our bay tree and with a mix of spices, onion, garlic and ginger, the boiling, mashing, straining and reducing produces 700 mls of sticky sweet juice that make three jars of delicious black grape chutney.

    There is also about 1.5 litres of grape juice, ready for a slight reduction to cordial consistency and then it can be bottled and grace our little bar. It is delicious.

    I'm back on track now, all caught up. The weekend is generally relaxing, and a much enjoyed rest. It was a busy week. We stocked up with fresh fruit and veg eggs cheese, bread and delicious home made kibbeh from le marche. There was some incidental gardening to be done but not much else

    On Monday, as predicted, the building site was humming; the electrician, the plumber the carpenter and the renderer were all onsite. Most exciting was the removal of the old render from the back wall of the existing maison and as predicted, there is beautiful creamy coloured charente stonework. Suddenly we've stepped back 50 or more years. It is spectacular.

    Not to be outdone by all the tradesman, we decide its time to get the chainsaw out again and tackle the one remaining outdoor project, the removal of a cluster of regrowth trees, already 50 feet high, that will become large problem trees in a few years. Two hours later, the trees are felled with no loss of limbs and we are feeling very satisfied for a job well done. I secretly think the tradies were quite impressed, especially as I was trundling across the lawn with wheel barrow loads of 30cm logs, destined for the new woodshed.

    The renderers have now covered the 'orange blob' of construction bricks, with a soft grey undercoat render and suddenly the new extension looks like its always been there. Everyone is very happy

    I got the mower out and trimmed the parts of the lawn that were green and lush - notably the knee high wild mint growing on top of the fosse (septic tank). And we even managed a couple of swims as the daytime temperatures have been over 25 degrees.

    Today we celebrated our arrival in France, 6 months ago, with lunch at Emma Lou and Johnny's favourite restaurant in St Jean D'Angely. Tucked away in the old Abbey precinct, it was a delightful meal and we wondered why it had taken us so long (three years) to visit! Planning is underway for the next 6 months as we realise the building project will continue until at least November and we still haven't ticked off our Mediterranean Island list. We've made plans to meet Jo in Sicily for New Years Eve, so this should set the scene for early 2027.
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  • Just another 'out of the box', surprise!

    20. September in Frankreich ☀️ 24 °C

    Saturday is Market day. There's a change in the air as some of the market stalls are absent and one of the cafe's is closed. We're not sure why, but we will keep you posted.

    Sunday is a cool morning-single digits, 9 degrees but the sky is bright blue and it's a perfect washing day. Voila! A big breakfast follows and some reviewing of the autumn/winter wardrobe which has been 'in storage' - a big black bag, for the past 4 months. After all, we have a trip to Paris next weekend and 10 days in the UK the following weekend. By the time we return it will be well and truly autumnal.

    By midday, our jobs done, we are ready for a Sunday arvo soiree. The Australians Living in France (FB) group has alerted me to the France Patrionmoine weekend. A weekend of history and culture across France, where icons of history and local importance (over 28,000) are open to the public for free or reduced rates. I have researched our local area and 25 minutes drive away is Château Mornay, which mentions a reduced entry and a snacks on sale. It sounded like the perfect destination so that's where we head, with no particular expectations.

    So you can imagine our surprise, when we are greeted at the Imperial tower, just over the moat by a charming Frenchman, appropriately dressed in 18th century attire, with a large old dog, called Soeil (sun) who really looked more like a bear! He speaks no English, but easily convinces us to enjoy dejeuner (€15 each) before joining a tour around the Chateau and grounds. We are amazed. Here is a Château, built in the 17th century with a history going back to the medieval ages sitting in the middle of a paddock not 15 minutes away from our local Intermarche at St Jean D’Angeley. Just another moment for the memories.

    Lunch is simple, sweet potato soup, followed by jambon, ham and white beans, then some crepes. Wine was €3 a glass and there were some non alcoholic options for the driver. The Château was not huge, but the history was fascinating and there were two trees registered on the 'Remarkable Tree of France' list in 2019 that were 400 years old! There were more than a dozen locals who had donned their 'historical attire' to act as guides and they did an excellent and most passionate job.

    We soaked up the history, ambled around the beautiful old grounds and gardens before heading home across the paddocks on the backroads, because that's the way our 'new car' took us. Some pool cleaning, the last summer Aperol Spritz and a very pleasant relaxing evening in the garden before the sun set around 8pm.
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  • Technical challenges

    21.–23. Sept. in Frankreich ☁️ 15 °C

    Monday got off to a good start until I decided to try and 'heal the rift' between the laptop and the old Sony Bravia TV screen that we'd been using to watch some good SBS scandi noir series. After 2 hours of restarts, holding buttons in, flicking through non responsive buttons on a very old remote, I had to give up, and IYKYK, giving up is not in my vocabulary.

    I retreated to the hills and dales of the farmlands, past the milking cows and in an hour did not see another human, or a car or even a tractor, harvester, or similar! But I at least felt better for my 6kms of exercise.

    Then I was confronted by the next tech challenge - the WIFI gave up. Its been erratic for the past 6 weeks and all the modem lights had failed, but finally last night it died.

    So today, armed with a letter of authorisation from Emma Lou, we set off for Saintes, 30 mins down the A10 with the goal to come home with a new modem. We arrived at the 'Orange' (telecom equivalent), shop at 10.05am, along with all the other pensioners and were relieved when the 'greeter', a mature woman at the door spoke excellent english. She arranged for a modem test and we watched as all the green ticks appeared, but we had evidence of the failed lights on the front so without too much hesitation, she offered us a new modem! Finally a win. It did take a while to connect so there were a few tense moments but as of tonight, we are looking pretty set.

    And in a complete contrast to modern day technology, I am sitting out on la terasse when I hear the sound of gunshots. Hunting season has opened and low and behold I look up to the hill behind us and see a large deer leaping across the top paddock. The French don't cook alot of venison, so we think the deer was safe, but we've seen pheasant and foxes around on many occasions so this may be the target. I'll be keeping to the laneways on my walks - no shortcuts across the paddocks for a while.
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  • A long weekend in Paris

    24.–25. Sept. in Frankreich ☀️ 26 °C

    The day started with some panicked phone calls about the kitchen hot water service location. No one had mentioned it to me before as there is already a large HWS in the back pantry which serves the current kitchen so I guess I just assumed the water would be tracked abit further along the line and into the new kitchen. But that was not to be, so there were some Franglais conversations between me and the electrician, then some three way French chats with Emma Lou and the carpenter before it was finally decided the petite chauderie should be mounted above the Frigo (fridge). Not ideal but I think we'll be able to build a frigo alcove with a cupboard above that will enclose the HWS.

    We still managed to lock up la maison, shutters et al and escape the building site with plenty of time to catch our 11.10 am TGV to Paris. Flying along at 293kms we were pulling into Montparnesse just 2 ½ hours later. We checked in to our delightful Home Exchange apartment in the 14th arrondisement - using the last of our HE guest points. It was simply perfect. You walked through a beautiful green oasis of several large trees and small sitting areas, to our apartment which was on the first floor, up a beautiful original dark timber staircase. It was compact and meticulous, but had everything we needed including beautiful full length windows that looked straight into the tops of the trees, and let so much natural light in. It was also totally serene, even with a fairly busy road out the front, skirting the Montparnesse cemetry.

    I had a date with my Parisian beautician on the right bank of Paris so I hot footed onto the metro, marched past Gare de Lyon and was happy to be indulged for 1 ½ hours with a beautifully soothing facial. Came back to the apartment and picked up Roger and then headed out to out local restaurant and bar street, just around the corner for a GnT and some Thai beef - we were craving something 'fresh and tangy'. It hit the spot and we meandered home, some of us with over 18,000 steps under our belts.
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  • The Pope arrives in Paris

    25.–26. Sept. in Frankreich ☁️ 23 °C

    It was a slow start on Friday, Roger picked up croissants from the nearby boulangerie and we opened the windows at 10am to listen to the 7 minutes of church bells ringing to welcome the Pope. Yes, we were in good company this weekend but the expected crowd of 100,000 followers, and the Popemobile route was passing just south of our apartment so instead we headed north towards the 15th arrondisement, and an old disused railway track I had read about. It was a glorious day, and whilst the track itself was in need of some garden maintenance, the extreme hot summer we'd experienced was probably contributing factor. There was a delightful old restored station cafe, Voie 15, where we had beautiful salmon tartare and a GnT for lunch and then we continued on to Parc Andre Citroên the only Paris park that actually abutts the Seine. It was quite stunning with lovely water gardens, clipped hedges and a striking memorial to the French soldiers on a multi level park at the entry.

    Our stamina was waning, so we walked down the Seine to Javel station, where we met crowds of the faithful heading to welcome the Pope. A brief crowded metro ride before we were safely back in our idyllic apartment in the 14th arrondisement.

    A nana nap was in order before we were back on the metro to head across to the right bank, near Sacre Couer to meet up with Linda and Julie, two of my NZ Karitane friends from the 1970's. We headed up to Bar À Bulles, a rooftop bar on top of the Moulin Rouge, where we could watch the red sails rotating, while the audience crowds were shuffling out of the buses on the street below. There were lots of people spilling onto streets, and plenty of the bars and restaurants were pumping but I'd booked Cloch D'or, where we had seats on the pavement and could watch the atmosphere but still catchup on all the news.
    We walked back with the girls to their hotel and then jumped on the metro, line 12 which must be the next in line for a reno. It was like riding a roller coaster with no suspension. The Pope's followers had all dispersed by now so we had a quick trip back to our abode.
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  • I ❤️ Paris

    26.–27. Sept. in Frankreich ☀️ 27 °C

    We had a lazy morning after another 18,000 steps yesterday. After donning our glad rags, we caught the metro to meet up with Anne Pleash, current Balli of the Cairns Chaine des Rottiseurs, for lunch at the 3 Michellan starred, Guy Savoy. Some of you will remember we celebrated our 20th wedding anniversary there back in 2009, with an amazing dinner experience at his original restaurant near the Champs Elysée. It was a memorable occasion and Roger had been angling for a repeat visit to his 'new' venue in the historic Monnaie du Paris, on the top-floor overlooking the Seine. He's been there for just over 10 years now so the pressure was on and it seemed a fitting location to meet up with Anne, another lover of good food and wine.

    Not much has changed in 17 years, except the red carpet all the way up the stairs is considerably longer than the original restaurant's 3 metre red carpet, just across the pavement! The greeters were there to meet us, as was, Chef, Guy Savoy as well at the top of the stairs. Little did we know what lay ahead as we were seated at a window seat overlooking the Seine with just one other table of three young men, dressed appropriately in their black jackets. Anne's enquiries established that two of the guys were chefs in training, and they brought their mate along for the ride. I later discover he's an Armanien student, studying International Law.

    But back to the food and wine. We chose the simple menu, six courses with matching wines and several amuse bouche to provide the surprises. I'll let the menu and pictures tell the story, suffice to say it was all beautiful but for me the lobster was the absolute standout. The service was impeccable, the wines superb, but as it was a lunch service there was not quite as much pomp and ceremony as we'd experienced originally. However, we had seen Guy Savoy pop in to speak to the table of young men behind us on numerous occasions, and concluded that they may have been angling for an apprenticeship. When he came over to chat with us, he proudly announced that one of the boys was his grandson, which enhanced the whole experience as we felt privileged to have shared our lunch in such special family circumstances.

    After coffee, with the tiny madeline popped under the specially designed coffee cup, petit fours and one more glass of Guy Savoy champagne, we finally departed around 5pm. The staff had the vacuum cleaners out in the other dining spaces! A quick metro home for a refreshing GnT at our local bar with a bowl of salty peanuts which constituted dinner, and it was not long till we were crawling into bed.
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  • Au bientot Paris

    27.–28. Sept. in Frankreich ☁️ 21 °C

    Sunday was a slow moving day, which started with coffee, naturally. Our local restaurant street, Rue Daguerre, was absolutely bustling as it was the monthly Vide Greniere - flea market, but unlike other flea markets I've visited, this one was much more 'upmarket' - probably more like an upper class garage sale in Australia. Which probably aligns, as Parisians in general don't have garages so they just bring their unwanted goods onto the streets and book a space at the vide greniere. There would have been over 200 stalls with all sorts of goods and things were generally very fairly priced. There were model planes, musical instruments, funky lights and even a rocking horse, as well as plenty of once loved clothing, winter jackets and boots.

    After a quick perusal, we headed north to another green space, Parc Montsouris, apparently created by Napoleon lll, inspired by the London Parks of that time. It was on a slight rise and abutts the Citè Universtitie so is popular with students. As Paris had delivered yet another beautiful sunny autumn day, the park was a hive of activity with different groups of fitness activities from tai chi to group fitness and personal training scattered all over the stunning green grass. A trendy artists area was nearby with some some interesting architectural houses, and naturally a bar on the corner where we rehydrated. Having skipped dinner last night, we sucummbed to a delicious burger and chips as well, which provided the sustenance for the walk back to our apartment.

    We collected our bags, and duly wandered off to Gare Montparnasse in plenty of time to catch our 6.30pm train back to Surgeres. By 9.30pm, we were safely home and mot much later sound asleep. Paris you've excelled again. We shall return.
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  • A momentous week at Les Petites Rivieres

    28. Sept. – 3. Okt. in Frankreich ☁️ 26 °C

    After our late arrival back from Paris, it was a reluctant early start this morning ready for the builders at 8am. But I must have had a hunch, as Willy announced in sign language that today was the day they were cutting through the opening from the new kitchen to the living room. In a flash I had raided the linen cupboard for sheets and towels to shroud the living room furniture, as the boys prepared the protective plastic shield from floor to ceiling to reduce the spread of the dust and propped the beams ready for the stone wall removal.

    Then they pulled out the large drill and made the breakthrough. It went without a hitch and by lunchtime all the large white Charente stonework in the opening had been removed- voila, we have a doorway. On Tuesday the formwork went up for the manual concrete pour to level the sides of the opening and prepare it for the plaque (plasterboard) to be fitted.

    No sign of the builders for the rest of the week except briefly to remove the formwork late one afternoon. But we were busy on a mission to replace the cracked timber toilet seat in the downstairs bathroom. We'd brought the replacement seat and in theory it was a 10 minute job.....except there was a problem which turned 10 minutes into 48hrs as we struggled to release/hacksaw and drill out the second wing nut and bolt holding the old seat on. Finally with additional bigger tooth hacksaw blades and sharper metal drill bits there was victory, but not without a lot of swearing and cursing.

    We ventured into the market on Wednesday and experienced the 'school strike' at St Jean D’Angeley, which has made the international news for several days now with some fairly dramatic outcomes, burning buses, injured children and the like. Our local protest was well overseen by a large contingent of gendarmes, blue flashing lights and senior school children marching with placards backwards and forwards across the pedestrian crossing. The strikes were driven by the students seeking better classroom conditions, more teachers, and better resources. News reports describe a severe lack of teachers for some grades, and those on sick leave not being replaced. In France the right to strike is a French tradition, learned from a young age.

    And speaking of traditions, I'm sure I've mentioned the hunting notices on most of the fields and woodlands around us. Well it turns out that mid September is the start of the hunting season so we are frequently alerted to gun fire at various times of the day and its not too far from home. We're still not sure what the target is, pigeons, foxes, quail or perhaps deer, but a large deer was leaping across the top paddock one Sunday morning and looked quite spectacular.
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  • Another weekend, another adventure

    3.–10. Okt. in England ☁️ 19 °C

    Our Saturday was spent cleaning up to the best of our ability, packing some warm weather gear and preparing for an early departure to La Rochelle Aeroport. It's about an hour from Les Petites Rivieres and in typical Phillips style, we arrived in plenty of time, dropped our car into the long term carpark and waited patiently for the coffee shop to open. La Rochelle is a tiny airport, reminiscent of some of those very basic airports in NZ back in the late '60's. It serves the budget airlines, Ryanair and Easyjet, our carrier for the day. Nevertheless it is very friendly and efficient. There was one 'moment' as we passed through the departure immigration booth when the pleasant lady officer asked me when I had arrived in France. I confidently replied, 18th March and her face went white (accord to Roger standing behind me). You see most tourists are only allowed to stay 90 days in 180 days, and I'd already been over 180 days. But when I pointed out my 12 month visa, she visibly relaxed, stamped my passport and smiled. I got the feeling they don't see many long stay visas at La Rochelle Airport.

    We're flying to London Gatwick for some catchups with family. Our flight arrives early! - can you believe it, so we're out the door and through customs in no time, to cross the road to the Sofital where our car hire awaits. More efficient service from Drivallia and before we know it, we're heading along the M25 and down the M3 towards Winchester. Stockbridge is a beautiful village en route, and our home for the first 6 days of our stay to look after Laura Jane's little dogs while she heads to the Scilly Isles to celebrate a friends 80th birthday. We had originally committed to two of the four pups, but plans changed when another dog minder, Bessie, who lives just across the road had to have a fence replaced so now we have three pups. Laura Jane took the fourth pup with her on holiday.

    We had a lovely catchup with Laura Jane over a couple of nights and mastered the art of dog management in no time, before being left to our own devices on Tuesday morning. A quick wander down the High Street refreshed our memory from a previous visit. Five pubs, two gourmet groceries, numerous pretty cafes beside the Test River plus an Italian, French and recent Indian restaurant all combine to make it a very popular destination. Theres also the Grosvenor Hotel, home of the local Test Fishing Society and frequented by notables, including the King and Malcom Fraser in days gone by.

    We're on the main street in a 17th century house with old timbers, low ceilings and plenty of character since the landlords renovations a couple of years ago. There's also a large garden which Laura Jane tends with her very green fingers. It's a very pleasant place to stay and our four legged friends couldn't be easier to look after.

    We spend our days relaxing, walking the pups on the marshes and browsing the very trendy upmarket gift shops and country clothing stores on the High Street. The world's best butcher is just across the road and has a cabinet full of beautiful meat, including venison, garlic and honey sausages, paper thin veal slices for escalopes and one of my old home favourites, oxtail - beautifully trimmed, full of meat, so of course I had to have some. We also picked up a little half a lamb roast to take to London.

    We only moved the car once, to visit the reccomended Peat Spade Pub for dinner.It was the quintessential country pub with friendly staff and delicious olde English food, think crunchy fish and chips with mushy peas and a beef hot pot with a crusty potato top. They had rooms at the pub as well, and sitting right behind us was a couple on their honeymoon. How did we know? She had a spangled hand bag with 'Mrs' on it, and a furry white cardigan with 'Just married' on the back. They looked about 18!

    Laura Jane's daughter, Charlotte, arrived from London late on Friday night to take over the dog minding duties so we were on our way to London on Saturday morning.
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  • The Aussie and Kiwi family in London

    10.–11. Okt. in England ⛅ 15 °C

    We crept out of the house early Saturday morning, and in no time at all were back at Gatwick airport, had dropped of our rental car and were on the train into Victoria Station.

    This is where the plans went a little awry. The quickest route to Alyssa's new London apartment was on the circle line train, but whichever way I entered the directions into Google maps, I was directed to an alternative tube line and a bus. Finally, the truth emerged - the circle and district lines were both closed for engineering works. I was too tired to negotiate the alternatives so we opted for option 2, a taxi - that was until we saw the queue! Option 3 was a bus so we walked across the road to the no 52 bus stop and not long after, the bus came along, but once more the journey was thwarted as the bus was full so the driver just waved at us and kept going. There was only one option left, shanks' pony so we set off on foot and walked to Hyde Park corner. Here we were able to catch the no 9 bus along Kensington High Street to Alyssa's. Her apartment is at the far end of a delightful cobbled mews just off Kensington High Street and we were finally inside and making ourselves at home. Alyssa and her flatmate, Saum, were up in Oxford at a careers fair for law students, so we had a relaxing afternoon and Roger put together a nice roast lamb for us all for dinner that night.

    Alyssa has recently been offered a permanent residency as a barrister at Essex Chambers after a year of pupeledge, so she now has her own office and is officially working on her own cases, predominately in International Law. Her flatmate, Saum, whom she has known since high school, is completing the final 6 months placement of her degree as a Hand Surgeon at the Chelsea and Westminster Hospital, so it was a fascinating insight into the world of young professionals living their best life in London.

    Sunday dawned a beautiful day and Alyssa was keen to catch up on some work, so Roger and I headed off on an adventure. First stop was Kensington Palace gardens, where we bumped into some of the 17000 + runners competing in the London half marathon. Not feeling quite energetic enough to join in, we opted instead to walk up the Portobello Road into Notting Hill. It was busy with tourists seeking trinkets and snapshots outside the infamous apartment block that featured in the movie Nottinghill, but we managed to find an all day bar with a table in the sun, so we could enjoy a GnT and a beer to keep up our fluids, and do some people watching.

    On our walk home we wandered through the little local market and discovered a delightful mother and daughter duo from Turkey making gozlemes on a large cast iron plate. Later in the afternoon, after a quick reconnoitre at Alyssa's, we all headed down Earl's Court Road, home of the original 'Kangaroo Valley' back in the mid seventies, and jumped on the tube out to Islington where we met up with my neice Mikayla, another long term London resident from NZ. She's working for an Interior Design firm and has just accepted a sponsorship from them, which allows her another 3 years on a working holiday visa. It was a fun night - Roger was the token 'father figure' with his table of five young women, and the conversation over dinner was lively and loud.
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