Walk-about in Spain

May - June 2023
In which two intrepid travelers head to Spain to walk the Camino for three weeks and then head to a castle south of Barcelona to attend a wedding. Read more
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  • 30days
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  • 19.3kkilometers
  • 16.7kkilometers
  • Day 29

    Tarragona to Barcelona

    June 10, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We tidied up our Airbnb and caught the bus to the Tarragona train stopping for a quick look at Ŕoman ruins of an ancient Coleseum. We caught the train at Tarragona station then got out in the midst of Barcelona crowds. Liz navigated us to our hotel: Petite Palace Museum. Since we had only one day in Barcelona we had to choose which sites to see. I was keen to see the Aquarium and Ernie went off to see the La Rambla and do a little beer tasting. The Barcelona aquarium housed thousands of marine species from around the world. The giant tanks allowed visitors to walk through and view displays through glass from the sides or below. The tanks were divided into habitats starting with shallow rocky coast and leading to deep oceanic habitats. Sea horses were in smaller tanks while sharks swam overhead andRead more

  • Day 27

    The wedding of Alex and Emily

    June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    The big day was here and we had until 5pm until the wedding started so we had morning cafe au lait at a cafeteria on the beach at La Mora and walked west along the beach and along the cliffs. After this we needed to head back to our Airbnb to prepare for the wedding. The three of us showered and pressed our various outfits with a steamer which was handy for our linen dress and skirt. We didn't want to arrive sweaty at the wedding so took the bus up the hill and just walked the last bit to the Castile de Tamarit through the woods in our dainty shoes.

    A security guard might have been very unimpressed with our new outfits (and dusty shoes) and was not going to let us in the castle gate 'Privado, privado ' he said. Fortunately some other guests vouched for us.

    The wedding ceremony took place on a terrace just outside the castle walls. It had rained in the morning but the sky had cleared and it was now quite hot so the paper fans provided out to be quite useful. Alex's family sat on one side of the terrace while Emily's family sat on the other side. The bridesmaids came in their green dresses while the grooms aids all were in white shirts and suits. There were garlands of roses, statice and daisies and the grass walkway also had scattered rose petals for the entry of bride. An MC of sorts welcomed the guests. Alex came forward and all eyes awaited Emily's entrance. She came in a lovely dress of white lace and a long train. The ceremony itself was in Spanish and English and the bride and groom exchanged vows and rings in a moving ceremony.

    We then all moved up a level to some shade around the pool and the waiters served some unusual Spanish tapas including oysters, creamed vegetables wrapped in fish, something with beets. Liz and I were busily chatting with Joy and Paul when Liz noticed an itchy feeling on her arms. There was surely some sesame in one of the appetizers! She rushed to her bag and found some Benedryl and another anti-histamine. After she notices the allergic reaction she has 15 minutes to find if it is severe enough to go to hospital so to ere on the side of caution we asked if the wedding driver could take us to hospital in Tarragona. Habi spoke some English and could help translate so we rushed off to get Liz's passport from the bnb and off to the Tarragona hospital, Habi navigated while his mother (who was learning how to drive) drove. Once at the university hospital we saw a waiting room full of patients, which foretold a very long wait. Fortunately Habi spoke to the front desk and they said that the hospital was for public and we should go to the private hospital as we had private insurance so we got back in the car and drove to the private hospital in downtown Tarragona. Here, Liz was seen very quickly by a young doctor who said Liz had a non threatening reaction but should get an injection of a corticosteroid (Liz: in the butt!) and said to be sure to take more antihistamines in the morning.

    In the meantime everyone at the wedding was worried about Liz and the dinner had started. So the driver took us back to the party and we were able to hear many of the dinner speeches and have most of the dinner courses and desserts. The dinner was fabulous and luckily Liz hadn't lost her appetite, After dinner finished we moved up to the dance floor and partook in dancing and signed the guest book for Emily and Alex. It was close to 2 in the morning by the time the party was wrapping up so instead of waiting for a ride we decided to walk back. We navigated our way back along the streets and through the forest back to La Mora, Feeling a bit wired from all the events of the evening it was hard to go to sleep but eventually we all slept soundly.
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  • Day 26

    Tarragona

    June 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    My brother Ernie had met us by chance the day before on the bus from Tarragona to La Mora. We spent the evening getting settled in our shared apartment Airbnb. We all slept in after our days of travelling and woke up to have tea on the outside porch . The weather here in Tarragona seems to be warm but cloudy. After breakfast on the beach we set out to explore the trail to Castile de Tamarit where the wedding takes place.

    There was groups of kids having a marvelous time on the beach. They were swimming, playing volleyball and generally having fun. It seems like kids in Spain have much more fun on school field trips than kids at home.
    The trail at the end of the beach took us up and down through pine forests. It was quite rocky in spots and we decided probably not suitable to negotiate in our wedding attire despite the trail being short.
    The Castile de Tamarit was a marvelous looking structure of stone. From our Tarragona side we could see an infinity swimming pool so it was only a short stretch of imagination to think what the castle was like inside. The castle was built on the point of land as a strategic site to ward off pirates on the Mediterranean. The castle was started in the 11th century and then in the 12th century a Romanesque tower was built. Thereafter it was taken over by Saracens and eventually abandoned due to a bout of malaria. It was bought and modernized with electricity and water. Nowadays it is only used for private functions such as weddings.
    Around the corner of the point there was a long beach. Walking along all of a sudden I heard "Trudy" and it was Michelle my sister-Iaws twin sister. We joined she, husband Craig and friends Listera and Doug at the cafe and had great chats about the Camino, metal detecting and the wedding.
    Then we went to a small pocket beach just off the castle. Ernie had a swim and we watched groups of kids in wet suits going off swimming and jumping off the rocks. Soon it was getting to be the time to get ready for the pre-wedding meet and greet so we wandered back, taking in views of the Mediterranean.
    At about 6:30 we caught a bus to Caladonia Campground. It appeared that we were the first people at the affair so checked out this very posh "camping" area which was nothing like campgrounds we have at home with cabins and a party venue complete with screen and sound system.
    Liz and I ended up sitting with Michell and Craig and Listra and Doug then there was Kathryn and Russ. There was lots of great Latin dance music and soon everybody was up dancing! Ernie snapped photos and we all partied until after 11pm. We met Alex's family and friends who were all fantastic dancers. Alex and Emily had a wonderful time as did Hugh and Giselle.
    We had decided to walk home and followed Google's suggested path. Big mistake as it followed a busy road with no lights and not much of a shoulder. We had to use our cell phone light to find our way and warn oncoming cars. Eventually we got off the highway and onto a quiet safe road and back to the Airbnb.
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  • Day 24

    Day 21 Leon

    June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    This was a day where we shopped for attire for the wedding and also visited the Cathedral. Liz had bandaged my foot so it didn't look so bad. Paula needed to buy some new shoes for walking the Camino. We walked to the el Ingles Cortes, a 6 story shopping mall near the stadium. Spanish women are so stylish there was sure to be something there. I am not accustomed to shopping so I found the mall somewhat overwhelming. We had two wedding events to attend so I needed two new outfits. I tried on a few clothes on the first floor and ended with a pair of green pants and matching shirt. Up we went to the sixth floor after Liz found a little blue dress and Liberty shirt. I became desperate as this was my last chance to shop before the wedding. What would be suitable for the wedding and for other events on Protection Island? Various dresses were not suitable but finally decided upon a long green linen skirt with buttons down the front. Next it was Paula's turn. She found some bright colored Hoka runners which made our runners look dull and dirty by comparison! Soon we were back at the hostel, and set off to view the Cathedral of Leon. Another beautiful structure with gilted alters and many stained glass windows.
    On the way back we stopped at grocery store and bought food to prepare in the hostel kitchen.
    Back at the hostel we showered, rested and bandaged up my foot. We prepared pizza and a sandwich for dinner and Paula shared her flan with us. We needed to get to bed early as we had an early train to catch in the morning so said goodbye to Paula and headed to our room for the night.
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  • Day 23

    Day 20 - Leon

    June 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    At a glance:
    Cultural highlight: Casa Botines, A Goudy designed building now a Goudy Museum. And a tour of The Church of San Franscisco of Assidi by a Franciscan monk.
    Food highlights: Nougat Ice cream and Apple and Cheese ice cream.
    Kilometres walked: 14.37
    # of steps: 17,911
    We packed up, checked out of the EC hostel and walked into Lyon proper. As checkin to the Hostel Quartier León Jabalquinto was at 2pm we decided to have coffee and visit the Goudy museum.
    Casa de Botines was set on a large plaza on the outside it was characterized by round towers and 4 floors and a slate roof. It could easily be a castle. Goudy spent considerable time in the 1860's in Leon designing the structure ( one of only three buildings built outside of Barcelona) to accommodate the alluvial floodplain, align with the celestial sky and fulfill both a practical and spiritual function. The first floor was originally a fabric centre and a bank. The second, third and fourth floor were residences joined by spiral stairs. The third floor showed some of the furniture of the period including chairs tables and desks. I was also impressed by a reconstruction of a dental office with frightening looking drills. The fourth floor was mostly paintings of various eras from the 10th century, thtough to Picasso and up until modern impressionist work.
    One interesting display centered on a spiral with weights hanging from lengths of string. This was meant to show what building angles could work from the inside out. Back outside the museum was a sculpture of
    a lion (Leon's namesake) coming out what looked like an underground septic access drain.
    At a bit after 2pm we navigated to Hostal Quatier Leon and checked into a very nice room on the first floor with 3 white sheeted beds. My foot was dressed and chilled by a gel ice pack found in the kitchen fridge. We met Paula who wanted to meet at 4:30 so after a shower and foot rest we wandered over to the St. Francisco monastery for a tour. We joined a small group and a very kindly monk showed us the alters that had come from the Santa Maria Cathedral, the doorway with brightly coloured wooden pieces representing the different nationalities and a cross. Part of the monastery was used as a trade school for auto mechanics and engineers while other rooms were used for needy families. There was also a display of art from from persons with leukemia. The inner garden or cloister was quite peaceful and had a labyrinth of hedges, roses and fruit trees.
    After the tour finished one tourist was moved to a have a confession with the monk. Outside the church was a statue showing St. Francis the patron saint of animals. Although we didn't attend the later mass, I was moved by the gentle and kind spirit of the monk.
    Paula had had a late lunch so didn't want dinner but Liz and I were ever hungry so found a bar with dinner choices. We have come to realize that although the streets are full of people at 7:00 pm, nobody really eats until well after 8:00 pm. So we did some street wandering ourselves and finally landed upon the Green Corner restuarant and bar. Liz had an Ensalada Roussa ( Russian potato salad) and grilled chicken and eggs
    and I had an Ensalada Mixta and Pollo Milanese (Grilled chicken). The dinner was OK but nothing to write home about.
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  • Day 21

    Day 18- Boadilla to Carrion de los Conde

    June 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    At a glance:
    Cultural highlight:
    Food highlights: lunch picnic: croissants with cheese and peach jam (Liz) and dinner of a tasty stew (Trudy)
    Kilometres walked: 32k!
    # of steps: 41,785!
    Elevation gain: nothing to speak of until kilometer 27 when we were tired and a 29m rise looked like a mountain.
    We walked along a long canal where fishermen threw baskets to catch crayfish, The canal was noisy with frogs and bird song. We dodged mudpuddles on the track and aired our feet often. We stopped for our picnic lunch and changed our socks to prevent worsening of my (Trudy) blisters After about 12 km the canal trail joined the Pilgrim track and we were away from any shade. There were the usual cereal crops (wheat and barley as well as as fallow) along the side of the track. The last kilometers were coming up and there was only the highway, a hill and hot sun. However soon to çome was the sound of thunder. Dark clouds and intermittent breaks of sun highlighting the fields made a beautiful pattern in the distance. We walked on and soon saw the church towers of Carrion de los Condes in the distance. Hostal Santiago was in the middle of town on the plaza near a church with stork nests and we could hear their guttural chatter from the open skylight. Liz insisted we head to the medical clinic for them to look at my blisters as my ankle was getting a bit swollen. I was a bit reluctant to go because I was worried that the orders might mean to rest. Anyhow the clinic was closed as it was 2:00 pm so we went back to the hostal to shower and wash clothes. Liz had lost her shade umbrella on the trail. She was hoping that a pilgrim would pick it up and bring it forward to Carrion. A very beautiful athletic (always doing stretches when not walking) woman had reported seeing it and had left it on the side of the track, thinking it belonged to a local, at least an hour and half back from our coffee break spot. So we went shopping in hardware, shoe and outdoor stores in this very small village. I was surprised that we eventually found a pretty good folding umbrella in an outdoor store.
    We had dinner by chance with Paula and Sue again.
    The Centro de Salud opened at 6pm so we went and joined a line up of other pilgrims with foot issues and some locals. A woman came out after 6pm and let some folks in but blisters were not urgent so I waited. Liz returned the hostal to bring in the laundry as the rain had started. We also tried phoning the medical insurance company. Many phone calls later I just reached the company as I was escorted into the clinic. Luckily Liz persisted with the calls (note from Liz: I impersonated Trudy while she was getting treated...you have to start a claim BEFORE getting treatment. Fo not pass this on the any Medoc company people).
    There were so many questions I would have given up. The technician also had many questions and reams of forms to sign etc. I estimate that it was a good 20 (note from Liz: 5 ) minutes inside before a doctor came in to look at the worst blister. I had about 5 blisters but they only looked at the one on my right heel as we pointed to it. That blister had opened earlier and a wad of pus had come out. However when they took off the Compede dressing off only a relatively small amount of murky fluid came out (note from Liz: a lot more than small amount!). The doctor declared it was more like a sprained ankle and prescribed Ibuprofen, rest, icing, physiotherapy and some sort of ankle brace (Liz: and change blister coverings ightly for 2 more nights a d keep an eye on it). I couldn't see how we could accommodate all this (Liz: easy).
    Liz: And NO more walking for a few days.
    When we came out of the clinic there was Paula who also was suffering from foot blisters. I told her what the doctor had said and she decided not to go into the clinic and just treat them herself with her foot care kit and rest.
    Given our timing we decided to go to Sahagun together, see the town and go from there.
    So our walk had ended two days before we had planned.
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  • Day 20

    Day 17 - Castrojerez to Boardillo

    June 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    At a glance:
    Food highlights: Communal dinner of lentil soup, chicken stew and ice cream
    Kilometres walked 20.54k
    # of steps: 25,133
    Elevation gain: 249m in 1k!
    I recognized the hill. Last time I did it in the heat of the day and it was awful. I don't do well in heat and I don't do well going uphill. So I was thankful that it was not even 7:30 a.m. Trudy, the ever ready bunny however, just keeps on going. We ran into San Juan Islander Larry again near 10 a.m.. He doesn't do well in the sun so tries to be out the door before six am. Our alarm doesn't go off until six but still we caught up to him and chatted for a few minutes.
    We also ran I to....or I should say Peta ran I to us on her Brompton bike. She had to push it up the 12% grade hill for 1k and walk it down the 18% grade for .5k. Luckily she ran into James who helped push on the uphill.
    The remainder of the hike is gental pathways and wildflowers and fields of wheat and barley. We have been resting our feet regularly as Trudy's feet have blisters.
    We made it to EnEl Camino. The family runs a traditional albergue on one side of the street and on the other a fancier Casa Rural. We didn't know which we were booked in and I happily paid the €45 for the fancy modern room with 2 beds and shiny tiled floors and a skylight that opens and a bathroom window looking out at the church roof with stork nests with the young working out. Once again the beds have real sheets!
    I recognize the man at the reception. He has more grey in his hair than in 2018 and he still flirts. I seem to recall he worked in Toronto for a year or so on his youth
    At 7:00 pm we join Paula, Sue and Larry (and others) at the long communal dinner table. We are served a delicious meal of soup, second course of stew and salad as well as ice cream for dessert . The conversation flows and we find out that
    Sue, Paula and Larry all worked at social assistance type of professions. We guess the Camino attacks them.
    Not sure where we got in.
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  • Day 18

    Day 15 - Burgos to Hornillos

    May 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    At a glance:
    Cultural highlight: having a nun bless us and put a medallion of the virgin Mary around our necks.
    Food highlights: a neopolitano or is it a neapoleano for breakfast....pastry stuffed with chocolate. Paella for 30 for dinner.
    Kilometres walked: 19.53k oh heck, call it 20k
    # of steps: 29,966
    Elevation gain:103
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  • Day 17

    Day 14- Atapuerca to Burgos

    May 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    At a glance
    Cultural highlight: the Cathedral Santa Maria in Burgos
    Food highlights: Tortilla (potato & egg pie) topped with a local sausage Mocella which looks like blood sausage and a grain and tastes like haggis.
    Kilometres walked: 20.6k
    # of steps: 27,541
    Elevation gain: +126 for the 1st k then -247m
    A quiet easy walk to Burgos. We opted for the less known river route which was noisy with birds and very pleasant.
    We arrived at the municipal albergue (€10 ea ) just before it opened and waited in line meeting Larry a senior from Friday Harbour. Trudy's seniors rail card fell out when the man was registering us and he waved his proudly too. I think it was the seniors card which got us a semi private room with only one bunk bed.
    Also in the line was Lorenzo once again. He had connected with Dorio and was expecting to be reunited with his Apple Air Bud tonight.
    We did our wash and hung it up to dry under darkening clouds and headed out in a downpour to tour Santa Maria Catedral. Amazing cathedral. By coincidence, Cathy and I had been there for medival days when the catedral was filled with lords and ladies.
    We got back and decided to splurge €3 to use the dryer with a fellow who was having dinner with Lorenzo. We made a deal. We would pay for the dryer and he was in charge if getting it out in 35 mins.
    Now the big news. Lorenzo had a big smile and opened his Apple Air Pod case happily showing me a complete pair.
    We ate at a restaurant that had menus in English, with junked honey or tree chocolate cake on the menu, along with Hake goes in the oven. Trudy had a very boney sea bass with salad and decided to stick with other options in future.
    As we head back in the rain to the alburgue we spot someone in bright rescue red foul weather gear. There could only be one person carrying that. Yes, Michael. He is planning a short day tomorrow as he wants to go from donativo to donativo and a short day will put him onto a convenient donitivo schedule.
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  • Day 16

    Day 13 - Villafranca to Atapueca

    May 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    At a glance:
    Cultural highlight: The museum at Atapuerca
    Food highlights: our foraged croissants
    Kilometres walked: 17.22
    # of steps: 24,623
    Elevation gain: 205m
    Breakfast was included with our very expensive accommodations ($112 for 2) so we made good use of it and snuck out a croissant stuffed with ham and cheese each for lunch.
    It was a 1 or 2k slog right off the bat up 200 m before going downhill for 50 and back up. Good to get it over and done with first thing in the morning.
    We passed through a beautiful oak forest and a fit looking man in his 30s who had his backpack on a 2wheeled shopping cart. Maybe he had a bad back . He was obviously struggling.
    Once at the top the forest turned into a pine forest.
    6 k on Michael passes us. He is only carrying a little canvas bag. His first day sending his heavy 20+lb. bag ahead. He was so thankful not to have worn it up the hill.
    He had a 30k day and was feeling it wouldn't be a problem without the weight of his pack. He flew on ahead of us.
    Another 5K and at a cafe we run into Lorenzo and the woman from the Netherlands with very short hair. He hasn't found his ear bud yet nor the fellow who has it. I should have kept the ear bud as this is the second time I could have returned it.
    He too saw Michael and Michael told him the name of his sous chef Dorio. Dorio has, the now trail famous, ear bud.
    There are 2 young women chatting. One is wearing bright red lipstick and the other is admiring it and her determination to wear it on the Camino. Red lipstick!
    We run into a man, who said he was Ukrainian and a translator but he lost his job and can't find work. He had with him two dogs and a huge backpack going the opposite way. He is broke and out of food for his dogs so we give him some change.
    We stop early for our picnic near a fountain in the entrance to town of Agés.
    Lorenzo stopped to get water and tells us the lipstick wearing woman gave him Dorios cell number. Hopefully they will now connect.
    We race the last 1k into Atapuerca trying and succeeding to beat the black stormy clouds that are thundering close by.
    Atapuerca is famous for being the one place in the world where they have found bones from many hominid species and from many different time periods from as far back as 1.2mill years ago.
    We spent almost an hour in the small museum in town where the eager woman there shows us just about everything they have. I notice they have the 3 volume set of Malaspina's voyages and mention I worked for Malaspina University. After some chitchat about Malaspina I mention I am interested in finding out if he collected textiles from the PNW and if so where would they be? She knows a Malaspina expert and will ask.
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