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Simon & Tracey’s 2019 CaminoSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
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  • TravelerSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Day 11

    The real Camino day 10

    June 10, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Well, the path conditions and the pace we have set in the last two days have caught up with me. I too have a couple of blisters, am I a true modern pilgrim now? Any case, Tracey wins the good foot contest.
    Today is shorter, around 28km into Burgos but still the horrible rocky paths that rip through your boots and pull your feet in every direction. Care is taken to not get any more blisters.
    It’s damp in the air first thing, cold and overcast. Th heat for now has gone, and we start walking in 7 or 8oC... We are on a mission to catch up with the Boys in Burgos (hopefully blisters are healing well). Head down and a short 4km later we stop for a lovely breakfast in Agés. We ask for 2 eggs on toast with our coffees (off the menu, but we know the bars are happy to do them). Unfortunately for the lady serving this starts a run on them from other pilgrims behind us. Fuelled up we set uff, we have a steep two and a bit climb to navigate - and the rocky path!!! Rocky.
    We make it down the other side and start the long walk around the air field (why we can’t just walk straight across, I don’t know - we are pilgrims after all!), over the railway and then the overly long 8km walk from the industrial outskirts into the old town.
    We make it for 1pm, see the boys just before the Albergue and hug - it’s great to all be back together.
    After sweet talking the lady on reception she lets us all in (your not meant to stay more than one night, and the boys were here 2 nights ago). Usual routine of shower, washing (little nap for Tracey) and lunch.
    A wonder around the town to see the magnificent cathedral, the castle and many other churches and riverside walk.
    Another rest, blog and now out for dinner. Energy for tomorrow, lol.    Read more

  • TravelerSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Day 12

    Day 11 Camino

    June 11, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Leaving Burgos this morning was cold... At 7am it was only 4oC!!! We fuelled up with a coffee and croissant ☕️ 🥐 at the strategically place cafe - opposite the municipal Albergue entrance. Then walked out the city, past the magnificent cathedral, the university and homes into the countryside. All four of us, back together, were in good spirits. The boys said they would see how the first 11 km went (after resting up their feet for th last few days). That came and went in a flash, both happy to continue. The Meseta begins outside Burgos - a large flat plane area in Spain, where distances can be deceptive. The track though is not flat, usually distort and fine gravel, but at other times stoned and quite painful to the feet; ripping the skin and causing blisters. Sure enough, 5km later I had to perform field meds to one of the boys on a newly formed blister. (Later, after the walk having to deal with both their feet again - draining and bandaging them up). Rain clouds were low but blown quickly past in the chilly wind; only to burn off in the afternoon to warming temperatures of 16/18oC. One ‘spike’ in th walk today rested the pain thresholds of the boys - rough stone gravel steeply up and down slowed the reasonable pace we had been keeping. We stopped soon after to rest and lunch in Hornillos del Camino. 11 more km to go... more painful, but with AirPods in the boys persevered and we kept at least a 4km pace along the flat dust track between corn and maze fields. We hit a 2km sign, a 0.5km one too - but no village insight. It wasn’t until we were virtually on top of Hontanas that is revealed itself from a low valley. (The usual shower and sleep for some, I wandered the village -investigating the church and sorting out dinner for the evening). Food cooked with love, G&T for Tracey and a large sangria to share we enjoyed dinner to the sounds of Spanish singing and guitar playing.
    Late to bed now - another blister clinic (coverings i the morning) and the blog to do.    Read more

  • TravelerSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Day 13

    Day 12 on the Camino

    June 12, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Another tough day all round today. We have a team talk over breakfast and agree it best to send the boys forward by transport. Their feet, and other aches & pains, are not letting them enjoy or complete a days walking. We part again as Tracey ad I set off around 9am - late for pilgrims hitting the path. We are aiming for the same place the boys are off to, so we will see them in just over 7 hours.
    Most of today is flat, with a ‘blip’ at around 13km in. We first follow a path out of the village and into fields. Soon dropping onto the road we come across the ruins of a monastery straddling it. Again much of the fields are corn or barley ( rarely any grape vines). The road is long and straight, and the swallows are weaving themselves in and out of the trees lining it. They are swooping over th field crop catching the insects, but looking like they are having fun doing it.
    The ‘blip’ soon appears on us. As we round a coupled villages at the bace of a steep hill another looms towards us. The path would be too sensible to go around it; instead it climbs at around a 1:8 gradient - constantly up. At the top)some 200m climb) the views are spectacular. It’s surprisingly flat for a while, with fields. But, what goes up must go down, and we are met with a steeper decent of 1:4 - knee breaking!
    We keep the pace up on the gravelly track, even when it turns rocky at times. Not great for the feet as it’s not long that I get a hot spot on my right foot and what runs out to be as 3 deep small heel blisters. We push on, stopping 20 mins for lunch before more of the same. We are getting tired and fed up, drained from starting late and walking later into the afternoon. Each of us take time to drag the others along the way.
    Skirting around the penultimate village the road enters the countryside and soon along s canal; a welcome change. By now the chilling wind that had cooled us all day had gone and the Spanish sun was warming the afternoon up. Growing weary the sight of Fromista was welcome, though it took another kilometre to walk into the centre to find the boys by the fountain, at around 5pm. The pace today took its tol on me (Simon) picking up three small deep heel blisters. Tracey again is fine!!! How so?
    Albergue- double washing (by hand) and out for dinner. The time goes by so quickly and soon it’s past 9. Lights out just before 10, and we have it all to do again tomorrow.
    At breakfast (6:30) we will all devise the plan for the next few days.    Read more

  • TravelerSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Day 14

    Day 13 Camino

    June 13, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We started this morning with breakfast in the Albergue at 6:30. As a group we came together to see what the plans were going to be for the next few days. Here, the boys made the tough and mature decision to pull out and go home. Both had injuries that were impacting on their wellbeing and was leaving them in constant pain; not getting better.
    We packed up and moved to a coffee bar to get sorted. A couple of hours later, trains were organised, Madrid hotel booked and flights home the next morning bought.
    It was so hard and emotional to do, leaving them as Tracey and I walked out onto the Camino once more. It seemed something was missing all day as we walked. And we both I’m sure had to wipe our eyes as we walked.
    Obviously we checked in, all the time with them - as parents do (too much in their eyes I bet). “Don’t miss this”... “Have you got everything?”... “Do you know where you are going?”. I’m sure they were happy to make the hotel in the afternoon (via Burger King) for the constant checking.
    With a late start today we had the option of 20km or 37km. We opted for the shorter to rest and recuperate. Saving the 17km with no cover or water for first thing tomorrow morning; in the cool rather the heat of the day today.
    Our 20km today was simple. Straight, east to west, along a gravel reach parallel to the main road; with a slight incline towards the end. There may have been a sculpture somewhere along the way for a selfie, but that was it for excitement.

    We are 18km from 1/2 way.

    And with one day in hand from the last time we walking it, we are looking to make up another day in the last 7 days or so.

    (Missing you two Blister Boys, Oli and Wes xx)    Read more

  • TravelerSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Day 15

    Camino Day 14

    June 14, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    5:50am alarm call, but rolled over. Out by 7am and into the first café for a coffee and a super chocolate croissant. It’s good to have breakfast , and full water bottles. Next town is 17.5km along an old dusty gravel Roman road. The only deviation is an up at the end of the first stage to a town hidden again in the dip. It was good doing this stretch first thing in the day, whilst it was overcast and cool - though the sun burnt the clouds away within a couple of hours and the temperature was rising as we went. To start with there was no cover, maybe a tree or two on one side but nothing to cast s shadow. Further on there were bushes either side of the path - but these brought their own perils in the many flying bees and bugs. In the fields swallows swooped and chased around after the bugs, many different versions of finches and sparrows littered the path. From time to time you would see a mouse scuttle across the path into the corn fields. We even saw agreed lizard!!
    At the end of the 17,5 km was a welcome break and orange juice. Half way there... the stage and also to Santiago. Yup, we have made the half way stage 😀.
    We pushed on through another 3 or 4 villages, stopping for water or just to rest our feet. The path wasn’t climbing too much today, so we were able to have a quick pace (offset by the breaks). Saint Nicolás was a welcome sight around 2:30... we checked in, showers the dust off and set on doing the washing.
    A communal dinner with Dutch,Belgians and the Germans topped off the day.
    It was a weird day, one of those days where you were missing something badly. We were checking in with the boy to make sure they left the hotel and got through security at Madrid airport. Had they got on the plane? What arrangements were waiting for them in Manchester. They were with us in spirit walking today.    Read more

  • TravelerSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Day 16

    Day 15 on the Camino

    June 15, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We had breakfast at the Albergue before we set off, a little later than though originally - 07:40. We hit the straight gravel track again, by the side of the road. But this time trees and bushes lined it offering shade and perfume to the walk. Alongside the loud bird song you would hear old leaves rustling in the ditch beside the road and path. Mice, would scurry across the path as you would be about to pass them. One even bumped into Tracey’s boot! They evenly lined the path for acre kilometres.
    We pressed on, through Sahagun, where railings lined the streets to the bull ring - festival time; and some revellers were still going home from the night before. We passed the old monastery and pilgrim hospital (now a hotel) on the way out of town and back onto the long straight paths.
    The fields were still agricultural, and through one we saw a deer walking by.
    The weather was perfect for walking, a cooling breeze kept the rising temperature of the sun at bay, and the clouds were as you use to draw as a child in the sky (flat bottomed and curly on top).
    Our legs felt fresh and in no time we had walked half of today, without stopping. The second half had a couple of water stops and a break for a lunch (bought from the Bercianos village shop as we passed through). There was an option of routes too, but we kept to the real Camino.
    Leaves rustled too along the path, but this time not just mice; but green lizards too.
    The final stretch was 13km between villages - the straightness was becoming monotonous and with little variation to see these kilometres seemed to take longer to complete. But the music from our speaker got us there, lol.
    We made up half of the four in the “vegetarian” Albergue. Showers and rested we then all ate together. Getting tired we went to the dorm and planed the next few days out, evening the kilometres.    Read more

  • TravelerSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Day 17

    Day 16 on the Camino

    June 16, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Saint Nicolás to La Virgen (a hot old day).
    So we decided to walk through León. Two reasons mainly, we had stayed there the time before (four years ago), the Parador hotel was closed for refurbishment (so no posh pilgrims dinner) - oh, and also to smooth out the next few days before the mountains.
    We set off just after 7am and it was around 7km until coffee. (And it was well worth the walk... we fell into a real ‘local’ bar, the noise you could hear across the square. Beautiful coffee and toast, and the biggest pastries 🥮 you have ever seen.) Set up for the next 18km to León we strode our into the countryside, along our friend the gravel/duty track - accompanied by our friend the mice and the birds. This time we came across four stalks wandering up and down an field of early growing corn. Obviously out for the worms etc, it was such a bizarre view.
    The walk to León was easier for the fact it was broke up every 5 or 6km with villages or things to see. Still long and staring, alongside the road - but the time went quickly. Until the drag into León. Through the industrial, rundown areas and then the expanding residential areas. The last 3km took forever, not helped by the full sun and increasing temperatures.
    León old town was buzzing with people dressed up to go out on a Sunday. There was some sort of festival season going on, with little stages set up in every square. The cathedral is magnificent and takes centre stage - we passed when people were coming out from a service.
    Following the yellow arrows we started to leave the city, over the old bridge (J R Hartley and his son were fly fishing in the river), along side the railway and out in a similar manner as we entered. The idea of walking an extra 7.5km seemed sensible earlier in the day; but after a beer in Leon, and the heat of the day pouring all over us it was hard going along road and unravel cambers on the paths.
    We finally made the only Albergue in La Virgen, ready to stop. Only to be treated by two donkeys. It turns out you can hire donkeys from France‼️ Thy will deliver them to the start of the walk and pick them up at the end - just wow... One for next time...    Read more

  • TravelerSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Day 18

    Day 17 on the Camino

    June 17, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Well, not the most interesting of days as it felt like Ground Hog Day all over. Dusty track, straight mostly and along side (or on) the road.
    Leaving at 7am we set off for the first 6km before breakfast. Passing the modern church in La Virgen first thing, where Jesus and his 12 apostles are shown pointing the way to Santiago.
    Rabbits replaced the mice this morning, running for cover in every direction as us pilgrims trod the path. Not the best Monday morning travel to work I’ve had, as most of the traffic was heading towards us and into the city of Leon we had left yesterday.
    We made good time in the morning, pounding outrage 25km to Hospital de Orbigo by mid day. We crossed the 100m cobbled bridge into the town with 20+ cyclists from Brazil. I thought the cobbles were bad for just walkers, some cyclists got off and pushed their bikes across!
    Lunch was had, and the big decision of the day was to be made. Do we do the north route or the southern one? Southern meant we would have a 13km leg in the sun with no village break, to a place that had no Albergues so a further 4km would need to be walked to Astorga. Or north meant over a hill for 5.5km and rest. The latter won, and we were all done by just gone 2pm. A quiet village, and small Albergue with the towns only bar meant a peaceful afternoon. Maybe the third and fourth to arrive here mean we got good bunks (bottoms each) and a shower before a group of 6 others turned up soon after. An afternoon siesta, early dinner (consisting of leftover lunch, biscuits, crisps and the Rioja from the fountain ⛲️ at Irache) and a walk around the village gets us ready for bed. Bed seems to come earlier and earlier, it’s 9pm for goodness sakes!
    Tomorrow we start climbing again )not literally with ropes) but a steady 300m gain over the 33km; in preparation for the day after and the highest point (Cruz de Ferro).
    Blister watch - well Tracey is a machine, but showing her human side with one small one on the top of her big toe!! How? Me, well it seems I’m growing oblivious of them and the standard low key throbbing foot pain. I didn’t know I had three more, all on the ends of my toes until Tracey mentioned them, lol. I wonder what bliss it will be standing, volunteering at Glastonbury, for 6 hours at a time in just under 2 weeks time - in these same old boots 🥾.
    But for now... we are having a Bien Camino.    Read more

  • TravelerSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Day 19

    Day 18 on the Camino

    June 18, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Santibanez to Rabanal dal Camino. 33ish kilometres.
    7am breakfast and then 7 hours on the road... Well, we do walk most of the time, but for a quick water break here and there and a lunch around 20km in.
    These recent days have been similar and different,but very much into the routine of pounding out the first 15 or 20kms - it seems to be the last 10 to 15 that take as long and are the harder.
    It was 12km to Astorga this morning, along a gravel track next to the road (sound similar?) A steep climb up into the town, past the ‘Spa Hotel’ and then where? It was market day, all the stalls were set up on both side of the street (you know the markets from 30 years ago back home, and the noise was wonderful). However this proved a problem to us pilgrims. We couldn’t see the way, the shells on the floor or yellow arrows were covered by stalls. Other pilgrims in front were as equally confused. So, we looked up towards the cathedral spire and went in that sort of direction. And what a site when we got there... Gaudi’s Palace and the cathedral side by side. We resisted and looked, thought and carried on.
    Out of the town we had wide tracks, white tracks, road and rocky paths. We had every sort of path that would cause blisters either by rubbing or just ripping the feet. The road was the best, a little spongy under foot too, but then you had to deal with the Spanish drivers.
    Corn fields are giving way to pine plantations and cows. We gradually went 300m as we headed to our abode for the night. The last 7km between villages was tough, but with some BP 109 music we made it. A real rural retreat, a courtyard and collection of connecting buildings. The bedroom feels like a large barn, and we have top bunks pushed together tonight.
    We had a washing scare, as showers have been falling this evening - spoiling the clear skies.
    Bed seems to be coming earlier too...    Read more

  • TravelerSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Day 20

    Day 19 on the Camino

    June 19, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    So today was Rabanal to Ponferrada, via the Cruz de Ferro; a 33km stage.
    We set off after breakfast, climbing just under 400m in 8km. The scenery quickly changed to trees, brush and green pastures with milking cows. The air was so clean, with an abundance of lichen on the bark. It had showered over night and the morning was cloud covered. Some of the hills around us were enveloped by the clouds. The path was well trodden and good up.
    At Cruz de Ferro, the highest point on the Camino, we left stones we had been carrying for loved ones. A time to think, pray and reflect.
    The top plateaued out for 5km and we continued walking the slate path with purple, green, browns and yellow alongside us.
    We then started the treacherous 12km part road/ mainly stone rubble path down. At points the loose rocks and steepness put a lot of stress on your feet and tops of your legs.
    Nearly there, 300m to the road leading into Melinaseca the unthinkable happened. Tracey tripped on a protruding rock and went flying forward, down onto her face. Others around us came and helped. Tracey’s strapping Italian angels helped her off the mountain to a place where she could rest; I called 112.
    An ambulance was dispatched from Ponferrada and made good speed. Taking us the remaining 8km to where we were aiming for to stop in the afternoon. After overcoming the language barrier, as Bering treated, Tracey left with a broken nose and 3 stitches to a cut above her left eye. (I’m so relieved that we have not left Europe yet!!)
    Told to rest and cool down, we find out hostel and mange to get a double scoop ice cream (doctor’s orders). A trip to the pharmacy and an early night. She is adamant to walk tomorrow... I’ve said let’s review in the morning (but I already know what the answer will be...).
    Night and God bless    Read more

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