• LouisaJames
Jan – Feb 2017

Thailand

A 30-day adventure by LouisaJames Read more
  • Trip start
    January 7, 2017

    Ko Lipe

    January 7, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    After another day yesterday exploring Langkawi by moped. While we were in the sea we saw a big pod of dolphins swim along the bay. By evening, really heavy rains arrived as we are getting the tail end of a storm. Even the frog wanted to find refuge from it! The continuing storm today made for an adventurous boat journey on rough seas. The boat was meant to dock on the south of the island next to a floating pontoon about 200m off the coast and then we were meant to get a long boat to the shore (the island is too small for a pier) but after waiting for ages they decided it was far too rough. The boat made it round to the north and a quick transfer, without a pontoon, to a longboat in heavy rain and swell was not quite what we had in mind when arriving at a Thai island. Where is the sun? Immigration was the best yet, however, a kiosk on the beach! It's so good to be back in Thailand as their food is amazing, fresh fruits, red curry... With the weather set to continue for for a couple of days we will have to spend our time working through the menus! They have a unique style of taxi's on the island too - motorbike and pillion with a difference.Read more

  • It's raining again...

    January 8, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    In this very unseasonable weather we have got off very lightly with just over two days of rain as most of southern Thailand is under water, people have died and services cancelled. Did see an amazing sunset tonight as the sun returned.Read more

  • Life's a Beach

    January 10, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Spent a couple of days lounging around on this amazing beach that is at the end of 'Walking Street', where our hostel is. The water is incredibly clear and warm with coral at the edge of it. Enjoyed a sundowner then pad thai and chicken satay on the beach.Read more

  • Snorkelling Boat Trip

    January 11, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Took a snorkelling boat trip to visit the islands around this National Park and snorkel off some of the reefs that surround them. The water was crystal clear with the coral and fish not disappointing. Saw massive clams, a huge metre long eel, all sorts of tropical fish, a type of sea horse and nearly got overrun by hermit crabs at the lunch stop! The evening sunset improved on the previous night, enjoying sat on the beach with many others in a very chilled out vibe.Read more

  • Island Relaxation

    January 17, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We have enjoyed some relaxation time on this beautiful island. We were surprised to find a completely deserted beach on such a small island, have enjoyed some picnics and sundowners on the beach too. We also went on another snorkelling trip visiting these islands, Koh Hin Sorn, Koh Lugoi, Koh Dong (lunch), Koh Pung, Koh Bulu (our favourite), Koh Hin Ngam (black stones), Jabang (an underwater 16 meter pinnacle). The current at the last stop was fierce this time, so were thankful for our flippers and a rope to hang onto! The warm water, clear seas and beautiful coral and fish have kept us here longer than we thought we would stay but the snorkelling was great and the island quiet with not much development at all.Read more

  • Moving North to Chiang Mai

    January 18, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Finally pulled ourselves away from the island and have been moving on again using a longboat, speedboat, minibus, plane and taxi. It was more appealing than a 28 hour bus ride! 800 miles in a straight line, wee bit more with the route we took!Read more

  • Chiang Mai

    January 19, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    Wee wander round the old town of Chiang Mai. Chock full of Wats (Buddhist shrines) with lots of Monks, Buddhas, temples, paintings and peace & quiet. Despite being third largest city in Thailand, the large old quarter surround by moats has a low rise small city feel to it. It has changed massively in the 12 years since we were last here, more hostels of a decent standard, cafes and traveller amenities. Typically Thai, loads of small shops selling everything and plenty of street food sellers. Busy but relaxed vibe. Beautiful food in a tiny 'cafe' with Fawlty Towers levels of service by man/lady owner - mad but so funny (we'll be back). First tuk-tuk ride in Thailand, rapid and a bit mental.Read more

  • Chiang Mai - Day 2

    January 20, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Had some great street finger food for tea last night including steamed pork buns. Went to Wat Chedi Luang (Buddhist temple) early to beat the crowds and walked into some special police ceremony, followed by a school visiting. Good to know school children are the same world round, quite amusing to watch... On the bikes again! Rode around looking at the old city and wandering around a huge market. Highlight was the stall selling live animals (for food) including frogs in nets and buckets of cat fish and eel's. Spent a while looking for flip flops for James as his fell apart and it appears western feet are a lot longer and wider than Asian!Read more

  • Chiang Mai - Day 3

    January 21, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    More temples.... Took a trip out of town to Doi Suthep temple complex, on a hill nearly 1,000m vertically above the town. Used the local bus which is essentially a taxi in that it takes you where you want to go, however it doesn't leave until 8 people have the same idea (cue a wait of over an hour to leave, or 12 people packed in if busy!). 306 steps led up to the temple, very busy with local people as it is the weekend and Chinese tourists wielding selfie sticks everywhere. Beautiful golden stupa plus lots of Buddha statues, prayer alcoves and amazing views over the city. Despite the crowds, it was easy to find a quiet spot to take it all in. There is a downhill mountain bike track from the top, we saw a couple of jeeps with locals and their dh bikes being shuttled to the top - so jealous! Had a wander round a couple of additional temples at the North gate of the old city. Despite the quantity of temples, each one is different in its own way. Also found a tiny streetside jazz club with people standing in the road to listen as it was packed full.Read more

  • Chiang Mai - Day 4

    January 22, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Mostly an admin day which is a reality when travelling for so long - booking flights for months away, arranging buses and getting info on how to get to/stay in and what to do in new locations. It's not all winging it!! Well not always anyway. Visited a couple of new temples close to the hostel, again so different to other places we've visited. Had lunch at 'Fawlty Towers' again, best Thai food anywhere despite the surly owner/chef/waitress/man/woman. Visited the night market which covering 3 square km is the largest in Asia. 5 hours and we'd only seen half of what was going on. A mix of locals and tourists after bargains, food, clothing and crafts. Purchased a few nic-nacs which are light and flat enough to fit into a rucksack. Absolutely packed but great fun and atmosphere.
    Following the death of the King 3 months ago, many buildings have a poster, photo or black/white silk hangings around the perimeter as a mark of respect. Many people wear a ribbon, armband or black clothing in remembrance for the next year. He was an incredibly respected person in Thailand.
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  • Chiang Mai - Day 5 and Louisa's 40th

    January 23, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    A few presents at breakfast (all pack flat or are light for easy transportation courtesy of the night market). A day round the city on bikes, more temples of course plus the local park which is a hang out for yoga and climbing community travellers. Fed some holy Catfish at a temple, they were huge and plentiful, hopefully loaded up with good karma now. Also are travelling with a third person for a few days until we manage to get rid of them...... somehow James has a burrowing worm thing in his foot, probably from a cat/dog deposit on a beach. Boots the chemists (really) sorted him out and should be rid soon - might even miss the critter! Thanks for all the messages and birthday wishes, raising a toast to all of you. Out to dinner, trying to find somewhere that can offer a glass of wine- not as easy as you might think! Persevered and tracked one down - success!!!Read more

  • Leaving Chiang Mai (slowly!)

    January 24, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Time to move on again by bus to Sukhothai. We were super organised and got our bus tickets the day before so were quite surprised when we turned up at lunchtime for our 5 and a half hour bus journey to be told, 'no bus / problem and given our money back! Not ideal when we had accommodation sorted for that night. Annoyance decreased once we found out there was a different one that evening. It meant 7 hours of hanging around near the bus station. So what did we do - hang out in McDonalds to borrow their Wifi and play cards in a disused cafe in a shopping centre! A comfy bus ride and we got here at 1am, poor guesthouse owners who insisted on collecting us from the bus stop in their pickup truck.Read more

  • Sukhothai - Historical Park

    January 25, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Back on the bikes (are we ever off them?) to look around the Sukhothai historical park central zone. There are over 90 major ruins and many minor ones, 70 of which are within the main central zone. This is where the old town is located and where we are staying, with the entire town surrounded by moats and walls - each side of the wall is around 1.5km long. The ruins are supposedly the first kingdom of Thailand in 1238. Some have had minor renovations to stop them collapsing, others are left as they were. The main area is a bit more tended to than the outlying ones and has a lovely peaceful atmosphere (the area isn't that well known and so not at all busy).Read more

  • Sukhothai - Western & Southern Zones

    January 26, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Came across a local weekday market on our way to the Eastern zone so stopped to stock up on essential items like shoes and a coconut peeler! While looking at all the forest temples we came across a huge scout camp (Baden Powel would have been impressed if it wasn't for their pink shirts). James's bike was straight out of the 1970's with huge chopper style handlebars and low frame - great fun! As this was out of the main area we had the whole place to ourselves, with a handful of other people around. In the afternoon we headed out into the countryside on random roads through villages and more ruins, some in very good condition. Their estimation of 20 odd temples outside the central zone is a bit off, they are everywhere- hidden away behind woods and copses. Great fun exploring and seeing the country beyond the 'touristy' areas. At night we gained a tree frog on our bedroom door, reluctant to move even when opening and closing the door! (As a foot note, James's parasitic pal is no more, just waiting for the 'track' to heal).Read more

  • Sukhothai - Northern Zone

    January 27, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Amongst others, Wat Si Chum was the main temple that we visited today which is also one of the most popular due to its grandeur and impact when you enter the inside from what is a very plain and dull exterior. That said, we only saw about 6 other people there!
    We decided to explore further afield on the bikes in the afternoon going for a ride along very quite roads and tracks through farmland and small villages. All the people we came across were very smiley and friendly, and quite surprised to see us. Wish we could say the same for some the dogs we met and the birds that swooped us as we must have got too close to their nest in the paddy fields! Not sure the bikes were really made for some of the tracks we found ourselves on but they are still in one piece so will do it all again tomorrow. They don't serve the best food in this town, which is a surprise and disappointing since Thai food is some of the best you can buy anywhere in the world. However, they have great fruit so have been enjoying their grapefruits which are huge and pineapple, both dipped in a salt/sugar/chilli mix. We also found a great selection of sweets at a small village shop to keep us going...
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  • Sukhothai - Bike Ride

    January 28, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We decided to take the trusty single speed bikes that have wobbly cranks and brakes that rub on a bit of a journey today. We think we rode at least 45km around the countryside through farms and fields again but this time to the south. Met more surprised people but it was too hot for dogs to be bothered! It was only possible to navigate the tiny dusty backroads using a brilliant free maps app that doesn't need the internet to work. Thank goodness for technology as it was a fantastic ride - never happier than when we are on a bike as it gives us a real sense of freedom.Read more

  • Ayutthaya

    January 29, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Left Sukhothai this morning on 7+ hour bus ride to Ayutthaya. Unesco Heritage site that used to be the capital of Siam (12th to 17th century). It promises many more, larger and better preserved temples and sites similar to Sukhothai - if so it should be amazing. Arrived to outskirts of city, then caught a locally made tuktuk into the town. These three wheelers are capable of scary speeds and are reminiscent of Reliant Robins - but in a pick-up format. They can be purchased new for around £400 (and 2nd hand for only a bit less), wish we knew that before we used buses..... Met Thierry, an interesting Canadian cyclist 6 months into year around the globe. Carrying a lot of kit including a big stick for the not so friendly country dogs! Great to have bike chat with someone who's interested!
    Arrived on the 2nd day of the Chinese New Year, so town was very busy with people, food stands, music stages, temporary temples and lots of noise, smoke and dragons! A lot of fun.
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  • Ayuthaya - temple ruins by bike

    January 30, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Once we got ourselves another set of wheels we went to look around some of the more popular ruins. Like with Sukhothai, the temples are free to visit till the end of the month, in memory of the King who passed away. Noticed the heat and humidity again, now that we have come further south so struggled a bit in it. Found a nice coffee shop and then a good place for pad thai to escape the midday heat. Took a bit of a ride out beyond the 'island' in the afternoon to the lovely, Wat Chai Wattanaram. It has a 35m-high Khmer-style central prang that tried to resemble the Cambodian Angkor Wat and is in quite good condition. We passed elephants on the way giving rides to tourists and while we have done this in the past we have learnt since that it may harm them so as much as we love the animals we refrained from doing this. We also came across a load of tourist police - how many policemen does it take to change an inner tube? We ended the day with a quite meal and beer until the dragon-lion dance came along the street and visited every business offering them a prosperous year (if they donated generously!). It was great to see it lit up and then dance through the pub complete with mobile band and generator.Read more

  • More of Ayutthaya

    January 31, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    More mileage on the bikes around the hundreds of sites in the town, varying from virtual ruins to newly (and still being) renovated. First stop was a 42m long reclining Buddha at Wat Lokayasutharam, wrapped in a huge orange robe. As the town is just over 1.5 hours from Bangkok, the more popular sites get swathes of tours turning up, take a photo then disappear, leaving the site quiet again. At Wat Na Phra Men the largest (one piece) stone Buddha can be found. It's been moved between Thailand and Myanmar several times during wars - surprising as it's huge!! As it is the Chinese New Year there was a parade for over two hours of bands, religious floats and plenty of dancing dragons. In the evening a massive market/food market/fair/light show marked a 100 years of something?! No one really seems to know, but it was packed with people and interesting food options including fried insects which seem to be popular in this region. Highlight was the Wall of Death! Super noisy, full of fumes, a wee bit scary and very rickety as the wall moved everytime the car or bike passed by. The man riding the bike side saddle with hands outstretched wins for craziest person.Read more

  • Ayutthaya - Further Afield

    February 1, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Was given a good route to follow today by the lady who we hired the bikes from. First stop was at Wat Phanan Choeng, which has the largest ancient Buddha in Thailand and it was massive. Turned up in time to see something that is done here daily but at other temples is only done on special occasions. People buy the orange robes and after a blessing they get handed over to be tied together. This then gets passed back to the people to place over their heads before it gets pulled over the Buddha's shoulder. Quite a fascinating ritual to see. Another temple, where we had our picnic lunch in the shade by a reclining Buddha, was quite pristinely kept. James is in for some good luck as he managed to get his coin to 'stick' onto the food of a Buddha! We also popped into other sights of interest on the way, like the Dutch settlement, Japanese village a floating village and other temples.Read more

  • Bangkok - how times change!

    February 2, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Arrived in Bangkok by train (a rushed last minute decision) and spent the day sorting kit for New Zealand. Went to the Banglampugh area of Bankok for dinner. After relaxed dinner sat by the side of the street in Rambuttri Road, we wandered through the area including the infamous Khao San Road. It's amazing the changes that somewhere can experience in a relatively short time. 13 years ago this area was a fairly small and chilled out place, even 4 years ago the vibe had changed and the amount of venues to eat and drink had increased. I must state that it's not an age thing, but Khao San Road is now unbearable - too long to describe but it's now seedy and full of folk high or incredibly drunk. Not a pleasant place at all, but there's obviously a market for it.
    The rest of the area is catching up quickly to this market, but for the time being it is possible to find relaxed and characterful places to eat & drink.
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  • Daily life in Asia - Penguins special

    February 3, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We've been asked about daily life in Asia, how we travel, where we eat and stay. To be honest much of it is a bit humdrum but here we go! It's a bit long winded but if it can be of assistance to someone then great. Unlike 13 years ago when we first travelled through Asia, it's a bit more organised and hi-tech these days. It is hard to arrive in a town and wander the streets looking for a place to stay, most are now listed on hotel booking sites (even the smallest ones) which has the advantage of information on the property, photos and traveller feedback. As many of the popular locations can be very busy at this time of the year it makes sense to book ahead and certainly saves time and legwork. Years ago it was a case of looking in a guidebook (or bible as it is known!) and just turning up. However in places where it is busy, these are the first to fill up and quite often more expensive than they should be due to their 'guidebook listed' status. Usually book 1 night then arrange extra directly with the hotel. It's often cheaper this way - you can negotiate price or leave after one night if not right. It also gives you a base to look for other accom in the area.
    Food intake has varied greatly from roadside food stands to restaurants of all grades including convenience stores for cereal, milk and yoghurt (plus the odd trip to Mcdonalds!). We've certainly eaten a lot more fruit of all sorys from street sellers. A few beers and gin has also been consumed...... The inevitable question of hygiene comes up; yes we are a wee bit selective where we eat, however the street food has been great, cheap and very tasty. So far we have escaped dicky stomachs in 4.5 months and hopefully this will continue to be the case. More often than not it's a case of personal hygiene (clean hands) or just plain bad luck. We were very conscious of avoiding using bottled water for a year due to the amount of plastic bottles used. On the whole we've used a Steripen which is a UV pen about the size of a small coke bottle. Simply stir the 'torch' part of the pen in 1 litre of water and 90 seconds later safe water. It's been used on water from taps and sources from dubious to mountain stream. It has been really useful and again so far hasn't let us down.
    With the exception of the two week Sri Lanka and the Nepal trek, the majority of travel has been by public transport. Either train, bus, boat, jeep or tuktuk with a couple of cheap internal flights, mostly cheap and cheerful options as it's the way locals travel and is very cost effective (Thai train journey of two hours, around £0.35). On the whole it's been fine and a great way to meet people, however packed with people it is! It does however take time, which is great if you have that luxury.
    For money we've used a Revolut currency card. It's a MasterCard based card, used as a standard debit and atm card. This converts £ to the local currency at Bank of England rates and no commission. Can heartily recommend this card after using several others. We also have another two currency cards and a credit card for security and in case one stops working. Also carry a quantity of £ and US$ for emergencies and just in case.
    Despite going travelling to get some relaxation and down time, it's been a pretty busy time on the whole. We are generally out after breakfast, touring all day before grabbing a quick shower and out for dinner or evening sightseeing, mostly by walking or cycling. It doesn't actually give a lot of down time as we imagined, but that's our choice! Music and Podcasts have been a bit of a saviour on the long journeys and a way to wind down at the end of the day. Mostly BBC comedy, travel and cycling podcasts but we do however follow the Archers religiously!
    People we've encountered have mostly been genuinely helpful and have been great when we have needed help. Whilst keeping your wits about you, you also have to trust people or you'd always keep a distance between you.
    Well there we go, a bit dull but that's our lot!!
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  • Bangkok - Sightseeing

    February 4, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Took the really packed river buses down to Chinatown for a wander around the area. The streets are so congested, it's a maze of lanes and passages selling an incredible range of items, most of it imported from China. It was packed with people and the shops were interspersed with food stands & trolleys making a great atmosphere. Each street specialised in one particular thing, how they select one shop from another baffles us. One highlight was in the flower wholesale market, where each stall was crammed full of yellow flower heads being threaded ready for temple offerings. Also, was the ginger stall where the ladies spend all day finely chopping ginger for food stalls to buy off them. On our shopping list were bowls, mugs, a spatula and a cooking pot for New Zealand- we found plenty of options to choose from.
    The next day we went by boat bus again to Wat Arun where a mix of Chinese and Thai Buddhism made for interesting temples and structures. All the designs on the Stupa were made from pieces of broken plates, jugs and cups from several hundred years ago.
    It was great in the evening to meet up with a friend called Dina who we went rafting with in Nepal, 3 months ago. She was passing through the city at the same time as us so shared a meal and a couple of beers and chatted about what we've been up to.
    Tomorrow we have an 8am bus to commence over 36 hours of travel..... The joy of it!
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  • Taiwan Airport

    February 5, 2017 in Taiwan ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We have had an 8 hour transit here in Taipei and our grand plans of having a free shower and nap on their comfy chairs and loungers didn't happen as there's far too much to see and do! Having been through quite a few airports it's safe to say that one is very much like another, except for here - it's amazing. Each gate has its own themed area which anyone can access, ranging from Hello Kitty to dim sum. The free facilities that we did manage to use included the massage chairs, iPad magazines, x box, car games... We weren't in the gym long enough to build up a sweat though!Read more

    Trip end
    February 5, 2017