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Kyoto Trail and Koyo

11 days in Kyoto during peak autumn foliage, hiking the Kyoto Trail.
Koyo (紅葉) is a Japanese word that refers to the vibrant, changing autumn leaves, encompassing the entire experience of admiring the seasonal colors.
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  • Trip start
    November 28, 2025
  • To-ji Temple

    November 30, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    When I arrived at Kyoto Station via Airport Bus, it was too early to check into my hotel, so I took a short walk south to visit To-ji Temple.

  • Hotel Hokke Club Kyoto

    November 30, 2025 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 52 °F

    Located next to Kyoto Tower, this hotel proved to be a great location. The room was tiny and had no view window, but...
    It was located across the street from the bus and train station.
    Had an izakaya, breakfast buffet and an Ogawa Coffee shop.
    A lot of close dinner options, food court in the Kyoto Tower basement, Porta restaurants, Yodobashi restaurants.
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  • Fushimi Inari Shrine

    December 1, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    Kyoto Trail Higashiyama Route 1 starts at Fushimi Inari Shrine and ends at Keage Station, going through residential areas and a few mountain trails.
    It was early enough so the shrine wasn't too crowded. Once I reached the Kyoto viewpoint, the Kyoto Trail veered north and exited the shrine on a lonely side trail.Read more

  • Kiyomizu-dera Temple

    December 1, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    The Kyoto Trail passed by Kiyomizu-dera and a back entrance allowed easy entry. As usual, the temple was crazy busy so I stayed away from the balcony but the momiji below the balcony was stunning.

  • Nijo-jo Castle

    December 1, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    After finishing up the hike at Keage Subway Station, it was a quick subway trip to Nijo-jo. The beautiful Karamon Gate, singing nightingale floors of the Ninomaru Palace, and the Ninomaru Garden were highlights.Read more

  • Nanzen-ji Temple / Aqueduct

    December 2, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    The second day of the Kyoto Trail Higashiyama Route is a climb from Nanzen-ji Temple to the peak of Daimonjiyama, then a descent to the "大" bonfire pit, then to Ginkaku-ju Temple.
    From Keage Subway Station I followed a herd of students to Nanzen-ji. The climb up wasn't too steep, but it was definitely taxing.Read more

  • Cable car ride to Hieizan

    December 3, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    The previous days of hiking left me sore and tired. The third day of the Higashiyama Route was the hardest with a long, totally uphill climb to the top of Hieizan. So I decided to skip the hike and do it like a normal tourist, using the two cable car systems serving Hieizan.
    At the top it was windy and cold as I explored the grounds of Enrakyu-ji Temple. The tourist spots on Hieizan had already shut down for the season.
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  • TeamLab Biovortex

    December 3, 2025 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 43 °F

    A short walk east from my hotel was the warehouse of the newest TeamLab installation, Biovortex. It was in a residential area and unmarked by any lights or signs so I had to walk around the huge building to find a line to get in.
    The Biovortex was the clear highlight, if you didn't mind getting pummeled by thousands of small balloons. The Borderless installation in Tokyo was better.
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  • Winter hike

    December 4, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 36 °F

    Recovered after a rest day, I committed to hiking Kitayama East Route 1 even though weather reports indicated snow in the morning.
    Since the trail followed the mountain ridge and I would be taking the cable car up to Hieizan to the start, I assumed it wouldn't be physically difficult. There were two peaks with short but very steep (scrambling required) ascents and the final descent was marked "boy scouts trail" and had very steep sections. The most physically punishing hike on this trip and I was relieved when I reached Todera.Read more

  • Kurama-dera Temple

    December 5, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 41 °F

    I decided to skip the first part of the Kitayama East Route 2 as it followed a road and adjacent towns and just went directly to the end with the Kurama-dera and Kifune Shrine.
    With clear skies, Kurama-dera was amazing, surrounded by low mountains. Sadly, autumn foliage was well past peak in the mountains.
    The mountain trail to Kifune Shrine was more crowded than in 2019 but still felt magical.
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  • Kifune Shrine

    December 5, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    Kifune Shrine was very crowded due to its small size, but still interesting. And the walk down the road to the train station was beautiful, following the river with its many waterfalls.

  • Kodai-ji Temple

    December 5, 2025 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 45 °F

    The Kodai-ji illumination event included a special effect on its gate, typically stunning momiji light up with reflecting pond, and a light up of its bamboo forest. All together an amazing event.

  • Day trip to Nara

    December 6, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 37 °F

    Got to Nara early, to both avoid the crowds and to catch the morning light on a beautiful day. My primary goal was to visit Kasuga Taisha Shrine, one of my favorite shrines. After this I hiked up the hill behind Nara Park for the view. The huge Todai-ji with its Great Buddha was visible, but I had no interest in visiting as the bus tour groups would be swamping the grounds.
    I took a stroll through the shopping areas near the train station before departing, enjoying a peaceful and low-stress visit to this horribly over-touristed location.
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  • Kitayama West / Nishiyama Route

    December 7, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 43 °F

    Back to hiking the Kyoto Trail. This was a combo of the end of the Kitayama West Route and the Nishiyama Route 1 and followed the Kiyotaki River. It was the most scenic part of the trail with crystal clear river, waterfalls, cedar forests and colorful mountainsides. I encountered several trail runners and hikers.Read more

  • Temple Crawl

    December 7, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    At the end of the Nishiyama Route 1 was Saga Arashiyama and a series of smaller temples to visit. I decided to visit Otagi Nenbutsu-ji, Gio-ji, and Jojakko-ji as I walked towards the train station.

  • Nishiyama Route 2

    December 8, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    The final section of the Kyoto Trail. This was a strange hike as it started in the most touristy part of Arashiyama, then took an abrupt turn up the mountain where no one was. The trail was forgettable with a nice city view at the top. It did continue on to a quiet road next to Saiho-ji (Kokedera) Temple where I had made a reservation for an 11 am visit.Read more

  • Saiho-ji (Kokedera) Temple

    December 8, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Several interesting practices for this temple. To protect its garden, it requires reservations to control the number of visitors. To make you appreciate its garden, it requires you to copy sutras, to clear your mind. This also spreads out the guests. And the garden was worth the effort. Although summer is the best time to visit, the fallen leaves on the moss were amazingly beautiful.Read more

  • Kyoto Station at night

    December 8, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Very modern and vibrant train station. I spent most of my time ground level or lower (Porta shopping, subway and train access) but for dinner I ventured to the heights of Kyoto Station.

  • Day trip to Hikone Castle

    December 9, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    I have a stamp rally book of the 24 best Japanese Castles. I find these castles, especially the original structures, fascinating. It's also a prompt to visit more regions of Japan.
    Hikone Castle was great, one of the original 12, and with Lake Biwa next to it, very picturesque.Read more