• Linda Kohl
octubre 2017

Iceland - 2017

Una breve pero excelente aventura de Linda Leer más
  • Inicio del viaje
    22 de octubre de 2017

    Day 1 Blue Lagoon, part 1

    22 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    After a particularly stressful immigration check in (too many people), I made it to the Blue Lagoon just after it opened at 8 am.
    The warm waters are rich in minerals like silica and sulfur and bathing in the Blue Lagoon is reputed to help some people suffering from skin diseases such as psoriasis. The water temperature averages 37–39 °C (99–102 °F). The rich mineral content is provided by the underground geological layers and pushed up to the surface by the hot water used by the plant. Because of its mineral concentration, water cannot be recycled and must be disposed of in the nearby landscape, a permeable lava field. It is renewed every 2 days. The silicate minerals are the primary cause of that water's milky blue shade.
    To avoid overcrowding, the Blue Lagoon sells only a set number of tickets for each hour, although you can stay as long as you want. The roads and sidewalks were frost covered. I had bought the cheapest package which covered entrance and a silica mask, and transportation from airport to BL to Reykjavik: $118 (without bus ride it was $80) I rented a towel (additional $7) and stored my stuff . It’s a beautiful setting out in the lava fields with steam rising. Yes,it was quite cold getting to the lagoon in your wet suit but then very nice. You walk around, can get drinks, get your mask, can get a massage and more. I watched the sunrise at about 8:50 and then 15 minutes later I was basically done. The silica in the Blue Lagoon does make you and your clothes sticky.
    Pictures: sunrise over BL, 2-5: Blue Lagoon, 6: Lava field at Blue Lagoon
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  • Day 1 - part 2 In Town

    22 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    By the time I left the Blue Lagoon, the sun was out and shining. It was an absolutely beautiful, calm day in town. The temperature was high 40’s. After getting dropped off at my hotel, I changed my clothes and helped myself to the leftover breakfast pastries on the bar for lunch. Then I set out to explore. Since it was Sunday and I knew some of the museums were closed on Monday, my main focus was those museums.

    I headed off to the Settlement Exhibition, following the excellent hotel instructions and my trusty map. I made it to City Hall right next to the Reykjavik City Pond to buy a Reykjavik Welcome Card. I bought a 2 day card and went off to the National Museum of Iceland. Then I headed back to the Settlement Exhibition and then the Culture House. After that I walked back to the hotel and took a little nap before my evening adventure.

    Some info on Iceland/Reyk: If it weren’t for the sunlight issue and the high prices, Iceland would be an awesome place to live. Crime is basically non-existent. While there is a police force in Reykj. I never saw one. They’ve had 1 murder in about 3 years. They are quite progressive, beating us to women’s voting and their legislature is almost 50% female.
    The water is totally drinkable throughout the country. It is underground springs. However, often the hot water source is different and sometimes tourists will complain about the smell of the hot water. Tipping is not typically done and there is absolutely no reason to convert money. I used my credit card the entire time, even out in the boonies.
    Reykjavik is an amazing capital city. About 2/3 of the 355,000 natives live in the area but the streets, particularly the main street, are like a small town. There is just 1 way traffic and 1 small lane with angle parking. Traffic was not heavy. There was only 1 stop light the full 3/4 mile I walked on the main street before turning. The buildings are pretty much the same style and, just like other countries, I’ve visited the streets change their names a lot. I think our guide told us that most learn English in grade school so that was great. Unemployment is near zero. Purchasing a Reykjavik Welcome Card is a great way to see the museums for “free” and save money (24 hour ticket: $27.; 48 hrs: $34).

    Pictures: 1-main square, 2-founder of Reyk, 3-city hall, 4-5-city pond, 6-Culture House museum
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  • Day 1 part 3: Northern Lights Extra tour

    22 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    In an effort to make sure that I did see the Northern Lights, I book my own bus tour for 9 pm – midnight my first night in town. There are many many bus tours offering this effort. My choice was $55 (about the same as others), had ipads in 12 languages to explain phenomena, extra coats to rent and free tripods. Also, if we didn’t see the lights, we could reschedule anytime in next 2 years. We stopped 3 different places and saw some minimal NL. [3 pictures of myself wouldn't be downloaded here. They are posted on the tour's website https://www.facebook.com/reykjaviksightseeing/ . Scroll down to the photos, click see all, and search for the album for Oct. 22nd (I’m in a black hooded coat, maybe glasses).] At all the stops, it was quite cold and windy. As opposed to the daytime, the nighttime weather out in the boonies was chilly.
    Part 1 of NL explanation; (see Day 2 for more): Created by strange storms on the sun, the Northern Lights need clear winter skies to appear. Great storms on the sun (i.e., solar winds) send gusts of charged solar particles hurtling across space. If Earth is in the path of the particle stream, our planet’s magnetic field and atmosphere react. When the charged particles from the sun strike atoms and molecules in Earth’s atmosphere, they excite those atoms, causing them to light up or move to a higher-energy state (similar to what happens in the neon lights). When the electrons drop back to a lower energy state, they release a photon: light.
    The otherworldly colors of the Northern Lights and Southern Lights have fueled folklore for millennia. In Norse mythology, the aurora was a fire bridge to the sky built by the gods. Actually, colors are made when charged particles from Sun excite/ionize oxygen or nitrogen. Red is oxygen at 200km or nitrogen below 90 km. Green is oxygen at 90-200 km. Purple and blue: nitrogen under 90 km. Pink and yellow: mix of red and green or blue.

    Pictures: 1-3: city from my hotel room, 4: Northern Lights and me
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  • Day 2, part 1 - City Tour

    23 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    Until 6 pm that night, I was still on my own so I chose a 10 am free walking tour (CItyWalk, the #1 Tripadvisor thing to do in Rey.). I had a quick breakfast and scooted out to find the meeting point for the free walking tour. I did have to ask a few times to make sure I was going in the right direction but eventually found the little park in front of Parliament. The group was limited to 20 and run by college history majors who take a donation at the end.
    The tour focuses on the history of Iceland, the evolution of Reykjavík as a town and Icelandic culture in general. Here is some history I learned. The Vikings were criminals who plundered, raped, etc. other lands. They found Iceland and then went to Ireland and Scotland to plunder and bring back women and others to be slaves/servants. So, when exploring Icelandic roots, scientists find Norse and Irish/Scotch backgrounds. This background does help to explain the accent that Icelanders have. Also of note is the factoid that the Viking helmet did not have horns. It is believed that a priest referred to the plundering Vikings as devils and someone then drew them with horns.
    Politically, Iceland is quite progressive. Almost half of Parliament (one of the oldest in the world) is female and they got the right to vote before we did. The day after I left there was a big election because of a scandal with the prime minister who was tied to the Panama Papers and something about a pedophile. As a result, coalitions with different parties fell apart so that a majority voting block was not happening. On top of Parliament are the 4 symbols for the coat of arms (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coat_of_arms_of_I…) The supporters are the four protectors of Iceland (landvættir) standing on a pahoehoe lava block, representing north, south, east and west. The protectors are bull, rock giant or eagle, a dragon, and a giant. Some believe that the four Evangelists, Luke (bull), Marc (lion, became dragon), John (eagle) and Matthew (man became giant).
    Pictures: 1-Parliament;
    2- Jon Sigurdsson statue: led the campaign for independence;
    3-govt. building (yes, you can just walk right in);
    4-Harpa concert hall (described later)
    5-harbor
    6: Statue of Viking Ingolfur ArnarsonViking who settled Iceland in 874.
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  • Day 2-Part 2, City Tour (more)

    23 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    More on the free tour: Hey, did you know that trolls aren’t real but elves are? Elves are not short but look like normal humans. They are happy, have great jobs, and great homes. You can only see them if you believe in them. Iceland actually has 1 full-time elf specialist who is consulted for certain decisions. For example, road construction was halted on one project because campaigners warned that the homes of elves and a chapel would be disrupted if the road continued on its present course. A local elf talker talked to the elves who agreed to the project as long as the chapel was moved intact, which it was. Btw, there is an elf school that one can attend in Reykjavik.
    Of particular interest to tourists is the very tall and looming: Hallgrímskirkja Church. The Icelanders took 40 years to complete the building. They began in 1944 when they declared independence from Denmark which was Nazi occupied at the time and Iceland knew they couldn’t do anything about the declaration. Anyway, determined to show that Iceland could function on their own, they did not seek any help in building the church so it took a while.
    The women’s right to vote began in 1913 and earned in 1915, about 5 years before ours. They weren’t allowed to join any political party so they formed their own. Picture 3 depicts their symbol which was knitted and given to some of the activists. In addition, they have absolutely no armed forces (NATO protects them) but they do have 3 Coast Guard ships for fishing/water issues.
    **** Picture 4 is the Blockhead statue, a representation of a bureaucrat (I hope you get the joke)
    Pictures: 1-grey coast guard ship; 2- Hallgrímskirkja Church; 3-symbol of women’s lib
    4-our guide; 5-blockhead; 6- Hallgrímskirkja Church
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  • Day 2-Part 3 Sightseeing on my own

    23 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    On my way back to the hotel, I went into the Hallgrímskirkja Church and took some pictures. After moving to the second hotel, I decided to walk to some more sites along the coast line.
    Pictures: 1-3 leif Ericson statue and Hallgrímskirkja Church
    4-6: ocean walk, some architecture, lava rock
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  • Day 2-Part 4 More sightseeing

    23 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    On the walk along the coast line I saw Solfar or Sun Voyager sculpture, the Harpa concert hall. Note on Harpa concert hall: the windows are meant to look like fish scales. They are also individually computerized to display different colors and present signs. When a terrorist attack happens, the building will display in lights the flag of that country. It is quite beautiful inside and out.
    Pictures: 1 Sun Voyager statue (Solfar) 2-6 Harpa concert hall outside and in
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  • Day 2-Pt 5 I'm too tired to walk anymore

    23 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    Then I had to go in the completely other direction to go to the zoo. With time expiring and my legs getting tired, I opted to stop just short of the zoo (not really enough time to enjoy it) and go to a very nearby Ásmundur Sveinsson Museum and visit the thermal pools of Laugardalur. The next several shots are from indoor and outdoor sculptures at the house-turned-museum of well-known sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson. I don’t have all the titles but I do have some:
    Pictures: 1-6 some sculptures, 4 is “Trollwoman” and 5 is “David and Goliath”
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  • Day 2-Part 6 Meeting the group

    23 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    Exhausted I made it back around 4 pm and just laid on my bed to rest my legs. My roommate, Beryl, showed up about 30 minutes later. She does some kind of health insurance underwriting. It turns out she also spent the previous night at Skuggi Hotel and had seen me a few times. At 6 we went to the lobby to meet the group There were 14 us, mostly women traveling solo. There was 1 couple celebrating the Lisa’s 40th birthday and 2 friends who do pediatric prosthetics. There was 1 other male, Chris, a photographer from Toronto. Jonas, our CEO (i.e., guide) went over some information and said he had 2 o 3 rules, one of which was that we had to sit in a different seat each day in the van so we’d get to know everyone. He suggested we all go out to dinner just around the corner. All of us but 1 (??) didn’t go. We went to a bar type restaurant with 30 different types of hamburgers (and some other fare). I had a hamburger and fries for $25. Prices are expensive and VAT is high. It was interesting how we paid. Maybe all the restaurants do that for tour groups. We go up to the cashier, tell her what table we were at and what we ate. Then you pay that amount right there. There is no expectation of tipping and most of us didn’t (you couldn’t add it to the charge slip anyway).
    Pictures 1-4: more sculptures 5: a muffin (yes, a muffin) at the hamburger restaurant
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  • Day 3-part 1 Lava Caving

    24 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    We got up early to pack the van and trailer (for our luggage and the food for our country-side stay) and headed to the Golden Circle, the top touristy thing people do in Iceland. It has waterfalls, glaciers, hot springs, and more and takes probably 1-2 days to drive around the circle and see the main attractions. None of our rides lasted more than an hour at a time. The weather was absolutely beautiful and sunny and warm (upper 40’s).
    Lava Caving by the Blue(Bláfjöll) Mountains Þingvellir
    Our first stop was Lava Caving found in the middle of a barren lava field. There was a steep rocky climb down into the cave that Janet did not really want to do. She was encouraged to make her way down and then decide. She did stick it out. We walked and crawled through the Leiðarendi cave that was carved out by flowing volcanic lava, & marvel at multi-colored rock formations left in its path. At one point a goat’s skeleton had been found deep inside the cave, causing years of speculation on how that could have happened. Compared to the caving Rachel and I did in Costa Rica, this was very pleasant but hard. There was no water or guana to walk through and absolutely no live creatures to deal with.
    Pictures: 1-Blue Mountains; 2/3- cave ; 4-lava field where cave is located; 5-6-map of Þingvellir National Park and scenery
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  • Day 3-part 2, Þingvellir National Park

    24 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    Most of the next 3 days were spent in the Golden Circle and Thingvellir National Park, a UNESCO world heritage site. We stopped to see the faults created by North American and Eurasian tectonic plates shifting apart. The Oxara river cuts through the largest rift in the valley, Almannagja, and leads to the Oxarafoss waterfall. Iceland’s parliament was also established in the area in 930, the park was later created to protect the remains of the open-air assembly grounds.
    Pictures: 1-2 Tectonic plates 3: I walked from spot to upper right hand corner
    4-6: some history about punishments and the waterfall and me.
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  • Day 3-part 3 Geysir

    24 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    Our next stop in the National Park was Geysir Hot Springs. There were numerous (and smelly) geothermal pools and the erupting hot spring Strokkur which erupts frequently and not really on schedule (between 3 to 10 minutes each time). The Great Geysir is one of the oldest geysers recorded in the world, but is most often dormant. Strokkur erupts a spray of boiling hot water straight into the air about every ten minutes. (Hey, did you know that the word geyser is taken from the Icelandic Geysir?) It was interesting in that we’d see the same tourists at each sight. Also, we stopped to see some Icelandic horses which are much shorter than our horses.
    Pictures: 1-3 Great geyser and comparison 4: cute fake house built on some hot springs/geysirs 5: Icelandic horse 6: a glacier
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  • Day 3-part 4 Gullfoss Waterfall

    24 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    Next we climbed to one of the most impressive waterfalls in Iceland, Gullfoss. This massive waterfall cascades over three “steps” before spilling into a large crevice. Fed by a glacier lake, the water passing through the falls can be a dark grey depending on how much sediment gets pushed through the river.
    Pictures: 1-5 Gullfoss Waterfall – note the path people are on and see how far we walked to the waterfall/ me. 6: sunset
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  • Day 3-part 5 Farmhouse

    24 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    We then went to our farmhouse lodging at Alftrod Guesthouse to have dinner prepared by Jonas and try to catch the Northern Lights. The farmhouse was sorta like a dorm: 1 living area with kitchen and entertainment sides; then through a door was 10 rooms with twin beds/bath. Someone had worn her fitbit and announced she did 17,000 steps today – WOW! Jonas made a fish stew for dinner and tonight was a great N.L. show with many different types of lights. (More explanation below)
    The aurora often appears as curtains of lights, but they can also be arcs or spirals, often following lines of force in Earth’s magnetic field. Most are green in color but sometimes you’ll see a hint of pink, and strong displays might also have red, violet and white colors. The lights typically are seen in the far north. Of course, the lights have a counterpart at Earth’s south polar regions. Sometimes it’s possible to hear Aurora noise, similar to a hissing, or crackling noise, It is caused by charged particles in an inversion layer of the atmosphere formed during a cold night.
    There are some different types of NL that can be seen. The most distinctive and brightest are the curtain-like auroral arcs. Each curtain consists of many parallel rays, each lined up with the local direction of the magnetic field, consistent with auroras being shaped by Earth's magnetic field. The similarity of an auroral display to curtains is often enhanced by folds within the arcs. Arcs can fragment or 'break-up' into separate, at times rapidly changing, often rayed features that may fill the whole sky. These are the 'discrete' auroras, which are at times bright enough to read a newspaper by at night and can display rapid sub-second variations in intensity. The 'diffuse' aurora, on the other hand, is a relatively featureless glow sometimes close to the limit of visibility. It can be distinguished from moonlit clouds by the fact that stars can be seen undiminished through the glow. Diffuse auroras are often composed of patches whose brightness exhibits regular or near-regular pulsations. The pulsation period can be typically many seconds, so is not always obvious. Often there black aurora i.e. narrow regions in diffuse aurora with reduced luminosity. A typical auroral display consists of these forms appearing in the above order throughout the night.

    Pictures 1-6 are my photos taken with just a hand-held 10 sec. exposure (needed 25-30 and tripod)
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  • Day 3-part 6 More Northern Lights

    24 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    As far as seeing the NL with the naked eye, it can be somewhat difficult. It was a bit hard for me to see the different colors. A time lapse picture shows the variations and colors. This night was our best viewing with 3 different types of lights: arcs, streaking, curtains. I’m expecting those who took tripod pictures to send them so stay tuned.
    Picture our guide took of NL and me and some more of my blurry pictures.
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  • Day 4 part 1, Hot Springs Hike

    25 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    Hot Springs Hike (Reykjadalur) Apart from a few stops to see some sights, our only activity today was to take a “short” upward hike (maybe 30-40 minutes) along the scenic Reykjadalur trail. We walked along the rolling hills and pools of bright blue water. Follow the steaming pools that line the footpath until you come to the hot springs - natural pools heated by geothermal activity. This was not smelly at all. Most of us did get into the geothermally-heated springs and vegged out for about an hour. We had each made our own sack lunch so we could eat whenever we wanted. As with the day before on our ride back home we stopped at a grocery to buy goodies. It was again a beautiful, sunny day.
    Pictures: 1- map to bath 2-backward looking on trail, starting point middle left, 3-some of our group, 4-5: backward look, start point in distance 6: crossing over some hot stuff
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  • Day 4 part 2, More Hot Springs

    25 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    The stream was not smelly at all. Most of us did get into the geothermally-heated springs and vegged out for about an hour. Changing booths (lol) consisted of 2 tall walls crossed in the middle; you can see one in the right side of photo 3. We had each made our own sack lunch so we could eat whenever we wanted. Photo 1 has some of the group: (L-R) Katie, Jennifer (Denver), Beryl, Linda, Jennifer (Ireland), Janet
    Picture 2: (L-R) Katie, Jennifer (Denver), Beryl, Linda, Jennifer (Ireland), Janet, to the R: Virginia, Emma
    Pictures: 1-3: the hot springs; 4-6 the trail back down, last photo shows the parking area.
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  • Day 4 part 3, Back to Farmhouse

    25 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    As with the day before on our ride back home we stopped at a grocery to buy goodies. It was again a beautiful, sunny day. We then headed back to our farmhouse midafternoon. Jonas made 3 legs of lamb in a pit that he had dug at the farmhouse. There was not much NL activity tonight except around 12:30 when Jonas rang a bell for us to come see. The streaking was overhead and quite astonishing but not as good as last night. I may not have mentioned this before but it is often hard to see the colors with naked eye. Often it looked like clouds to me but a time lapse photo does show the colors.
    Pictures: 1- the active volcano Eyjafjallajökull which stopped air travel in 2010; 2-3 some of countryside 4: Jonas preparing pit for 3 legs of lamb, 5-another sunset 6-some Northern lights
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  • Day 5, part 1 Seljalandsfoss Waterfall

    26 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    After packing up our trailer, we headed to our first waterfall of the day. Seljalandsfoss is a 60m (196 ft) tall waterfall located along the popular ring road. Behind the flow of water is a path, allowing visitors to peek behind the curtain of water cascading over the rocks above. Some of the group did take the 400 steps to the top of the falls but I didn’t think I had time (but I woulda) so instead I walked behind the falls.
    Pictures: 1-distant shot; 2-getting closer; 3-from behind the falls; 4-5-me and falls; 6-far off glacier
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  • Day 5, part 2 Skógafoss Waterfall

    26 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    We next stopped at Skógafoss, one of the largest and most recognizable waterfalls in Iceland. The 60m (200 ft) high falls forms a constant mist that floats in the air, if viewed in the sunlight the mist can create rainbows. The sound and view of the thundering water cutting through the green hills make the falls a must-see on any trip to Iceland. Did you know that rainbows aren’t really just an arc? They are full circles.
    Pictures: 1-4: waterfall and rainbows, 5-6 the glacier and the melting of the glacier
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  • Day 5, pt 3 Sólheimajökull Glacier Hike

    26 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    Next, we headed to the Sólheimajökull Glacier where all but 2 of us signed up for the glacier hike (3 hours). This is nothing like the glaciers Rachel and I did in Canadian Rockies. We were outfitted with crampons, ice pick, helmet, and harness. We were taught how to walk widelegged with the crampons. We not only ascended fairly steep formations but had to descend as well. My group of 12 included the 4 older women and Jillian (with the artificial leg) – she was given poles. Janet complained a bit about when was it going to get easy. And, both she and I were the only ones to fall. I only fell because while walking through a narrow ravine my crampon came down on my other pant leg, causing me to fall. It was again a beautiful, sunny day. BTW, one reason their words are so long is because they concatenate words together.
    Pictures: 1-6 the glacier hike, me, some melting, the guide and in picture 4, way off to the left and back is where we started.
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  • Day 5, pt 4 Glacier/Black Sand Beach

    26 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    Heading back to Reykjavik. We drove the scenic southern coast of the Golden Circle. We enjoyed the panoramic views of the surrounding mountains, glaciers and the Eyjafjallajökull volcano. Not really on the itinerary, we got a Jonas Bonus for minimizing our time at 2 waterfalls: we got to go to the black sand beach. By the time we got there it was very cold and windy – must be a function of being on the ocean (and I’m assuming it’s the ocean).
    Pictures: 1-2 the glacier hike, 3-6 dangerous black sand beach
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  • Day 5, part 5 Reykjavik

    26 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    Back in Reykjavik:The entire group met up for dinner at a bar/restaurant about 30 minute walk from the hotel. I had a chicken sandwich and fries for $20. I had gathered everyone’s email address so I passed it around so we could take pictures of it. We paid the same way as we did the 1st night. I did leave early (along with roomie Beryl) because I had to get up at 4 am to catch mini-bus to airport for 8:30 am flight. The hotel did prepare me a sandwich in lieu of my free breakfast.
    Picture 3 from L-R: Jennifer (Denver), Jonas, Ireland Jennifer(on phone), Chris, Ruth, Katie, Virginia, Janet
    Picture 4: Lizz and Jillian, 2 pediatric prosthetic experts
    Picture 5: me and Jennifer and Jonas
    Picture 6: L-R back row: Chris, Virgina, Janet, Ruth, Jennifer (Ireland), Katie, Jennifer (Denver)
    L-R front: Mike, Lisa, Linda, Beryl, Jillian, Emma, Lizz
    Pictures: 1-2 more of black sand beach, 3-5 some people shots
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  • Day 6, Going Home

    27 de octubre de 2017, Islandia ⋅ 🌬 4 °C

    It was very balmy at 4:30 am but by the time we had to walk out to the plane to board it had turned cold, rainy and windy. It was fun to see Mike and Lisa in the seats directly behind me. They hadn’t made a big deal about getting up early and, in fact, I think they took a later transport. All my flights/connections were early. The Michigan Flyer was only 30 minutes late due to rush hour traffic and an accident on I-94.Leer más

    Fin del viaje
    27 de octubre de 2017