Time to Regroup

Pamplona, Spain
One of the unique features of the Camino are the pilgrim suppers, a simple but hearty meal served at an earlier time than traditional Spanish dinners. Pilgrims from all over gather and break bread together. You may start the meal as total strangers, but everyone finds common ground to connect. Dinner last night was like a session of the United Nations, with 3 pilgrims from Hungary, one Italian, a German, a Frenchman and us. The conversation was a lively affair with stories translated into 3 languages. Mike thought he was off the hook this trip, but he got to do the honors of translating conversation into German, as his German is much better than mine. We learned just how fortunate we were to get our sleeping accommodations. Two of our dinner companions were sleeping on the kitchen floor at the local municipal albergue and one didn't even have a sleeping bag. Fortunately other pilgrims loaned him a mat that they weren't using. He was happy to be sleeping inside rather than out in a field. Our French friend related how on a previous pilgrimage a man had taken care of her when all lodging was full. He didn't have much but opened his heart and gladly shared what little he had. The kindness of strangers, no matter how big or small, is priceless. We have been the recipients as well, when my neck injury flared up. Turns out Anise, a lady staying in our same room, is a reflexologist. She worked her magic on my feet/neck and showed Mike what needed to be done. Didn't know how I was going to manage my backpack today, but somehow I did. We made it to Pamplona, a 2 hour bus ride to St Jean Pied de Port was a 4 day walk to return. This time we were somewhat familiar with the city and able to make good progress. We've decided to take a rest day here and were able to get 2 nights lodging. We are hoping to treat ourselves and get our clothes washed at a laundromat... the simple pleasures in life! Have also decided that our original plan to find lodging as we go in traditional pilgrim mode was just not feasible and needed to be reworked. Even though lodging options have increased dramatically, the Camino has become so popular that pilgrims far outnumber accomodations. The younger pilgrims are much faster, so our likelihood of obtaining anything upon arrival in town is not good. Comparing notes with many of our peers, most made arrangements months ago. Once we settled in today and I had access to WiFi, I got to work. Armed with the new knowledge of how far we can reasonably walk in a day and my handy dandy spreadsheet, I booked accommodations for the next 5 nights. Oh, and by the way, many of the women I talked with from multiple countries also had spreadsheets. Mike thinks it's the double X chromosome 😉.Read more