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Camino Frances

August - October 2019
A 46-day adventure by The Big Adventure Read more
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  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 1

    Camino Countdown

    August 30, 2019 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 88 °F

    Palm Harbor, Florida
    After almost 2 years of anticipation and planning, we are on the glide path to the Camino. Why? Who in their right mind would walk 500 miles across Spain? Since first hearing about the Camino, it kept popping up over the years as if calling to me. Feeling the need to do this while we can, I can’t help but wonder what it will be like. Many say it’s a life changing experience, but I just can’t grasp that. What if it doesn’t? What are we meant to get out of this? Our backpacks are ready to go, with the bare minimum to ensure they are as light as possible. The house and finances are in order. Forgot to send the weather memo, and sure as shooting Hurricane Dorian is heading our way. We’ve battened down the hatches and are “evacuating” to Spain with contingency plans in place. Nothing like a challenge on 2 fronts.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 2

    Old Habits Die Hard

    August 31, 2019 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 88 °F

    In Flight
    We made it out of Florida ahead of the hurricane and should be touching down in Madrid early Sunday morning. We’ll need to find our way to Pamplona before doing the jet lag crash and burn routine. Hopefully we will be able to take the train, provided the rumored strike is resolved. “The Camino will provide“ is my mantra. Letting everything unfold in due time doesn’t come easy. I will admit that about a week ago, I broke down and threw together a color-coded spreadsheet to sketch out a travel plan. My sister Joan would be proud 😉. Using 20 km a day as a goal, I was reassured to know that I’d allotted ample time for the journey with 7 days of wiggle room for rest/sightseeing days. It may seem a tad backwards to just be getting around to that, but I’d followed recommendations when making plane reservations eons ago. This was a matter of hammering out the details. We have reservations for lodging Monday in St Jean-Pied-De-Port, and the first 2 nights in Orisson and Roncesvalles as recommended. After that, well, the Camino will provide.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 3

    Let the Games Begin!

    September 1, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Pamplona, Spain
    We arrived in Madrid in the wee hours of the morning and set about finding our way to the train. A small office near the airport exit was happy to sell us a tarjeta dorada (as in senior pass) as well as tickets for the train to Pamplona. Hopping the connector to the appropriate train station was fairly simple, though it’ll be a 4 hour wait for our train due to the slowdown imposed by the strike. Hey, we’re just glad they are running and it gives us the perfect location and plenty of time for people watching. Summer vacation is coming to an end and folks are toting an incredible amount of luggage, appearing to travel with all their worldly possessions. By comparison we look like we are just out for a Sunday stroll. The high-speed train carried us through the countryside. Harvest is in progress with big fields of straw cut, baled, and awaiting storage. Not sure of all the other crops, though I did recognize orange trees loaded with fruit and fields of sunflower heads ready for the plucking. We finally made it to Pamplona around 3 pm, after being in transit over 24 hours. We splurged and got a hotel room so we can get a good night’s sleep before officially starting the Camino.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 4

    We’re Official!

    September 2, 2019 in France ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Saint Jean Pied de Port, France
    After checking into the hotel and grabbing a quick bite, we collapsed into bed and slept like the dead. At checkout we inquired about a taxi to the bus station, only to find out that it's a 5 minute walk from the hotel if we are up to it. Ha ha good one. We found the station and our bus to St Jean Pied de Port no problem. However, when the bus driver came down the aisle with barf bags before even starting out, it was not a good sign. Sure enough, we got quite a core workout between all the traffic circles in town and the hairpin curves coming through the Pyrenees. Spotting gaggles of pilgrims along the way, Mike leaned over and said "good heavens, what did you get me into?" How quickly he forgets that he volunteered. The bus mercifully stopped and let us out at a little market in the center of town with our breakfast still intact. St Jean Pied de Port is a quaint little Basque town dating back to the Middle Ages, full of narrow cobblestone streets and charming shops, cafes and lodging. We checked in at the local pilgrims office for guidance and weather forecast. Looks good for tomorrow. We got our first stamp in our pilgrims passports or credencial, making us officially pilgrims! We shared lunch with Marcia, another pilgrim from Australia. She's quite adventurous and has completed multiple hikes to include Mt Everest base camp, but this is her first Camino. She's waiting for a friend to join her here who she will be helping to walk across the Pyrenees. At the appointed time we checked into Beilari, our lodging for the night. Josef gave us a brief orientation and showed us to our room. We're sharing a room with 2 other women. Good way to break in easy to the "sharing a room with 100 of my new best friends" routine.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 5

    OMG

    September 3, 2019 in France ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Orisson, France
    A big part of the Camino is the people you meet. Josef, who runs our hostel, is assisted by his son Matthew. At dinner last night he gathered us all around the table and used an imaginary ball to toss among us for introductions followed by brief (4 words) descriptions of our Camino. We have a group from Sweden, as well as Brazil, Germany, Spain, Canada and the USA. Gabriela is from the USA and recently graduated high school. She’s taking a gap year to decide what comes next. Brenda is Canadian and recently lost her husband of almost 50 years. Hers is a journey of grief, though not alone. She’ll be walking with her new friends and fellow pilgrims. Chavie, from Spain is finishing his Camino. He does 30 days every year. The rest of us are starting our first Camino. After a sumptuous 3 course dinner, we all turn in for the night. We were awoken by the angels, or Joseph’s rendition complete with soft music. He sent us off after breakfast with sandwiches like the ones his father used to make for him years ago. Orisson is our destination, a mere 5 miles… all of it UPHILL with a 45+ degree incline. Thank heavens we are only going to Orisson and not all the way to Roncesvalles. We took the Napoleon route, high up into the mountains. Quite a departure from the flat sea level of Florida. Walking is mandatory, breathing optional 😂. It was kind of like being in labor, with your coach whispering “just one more contraction” or in this case “hill” in your ear for hours. We took our time and finally made it. The view is spectacular and hard to believe we climbed up here with our backpacks. I thought Orisson was a village, but it’s only a hostel and restaurant with a magnificent deck overlooking the valley. Tomorrow is more of the same. Nothing like a challenge!Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 6

    It’s a Long Way to Tipperary!

    September 4, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Espinal, Spain
    We watched a gorgeous sunrise as we chowed down on a quick breakfast of toasted baguette and bowls of coffee before hitting the trail for Roncesvalles. It's also mostly uphill, but a gentler incline. The scenery is spectacular from the top, especially when you remember to turn around and catch the mist rising up the valley. Profuse fields of heather lined the trail interspersed with nettles. The livestock was out in full force, with multiple herds of sheep, cattle and horses. The hills were alive with music as multiple animals were sporting bells. At one point our path was blocked by a couple of horses, but fortunately French and Spanish horses respond to the same cues as American ones and we were able to easily move them along. From the mountains, across streams, and through forests, we made it to Roncesvalles around 1:30, passing an imposing church and monastery with strains of singing emanating. Congratulating ourselves on making it thus far, we grabbed a seat at a bar and set about locating our lodging for the evening. Turns out that even though it's named Casa Rural Roncesvalles, it's another 4 miles down the road in Espinal. Shouldering our packs, we set out again. We were thrilled to finally reach our destination, having covered 15 miles on day 2 of our Camino. I can tell, it's going to be an ibuprofen night.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 7

    It’s all about the Terrain

    September 5, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Larrasoana, Spain
    According to the book, we're in for a downhill day to Zubiri. Thank goodness for the downhill lacing techniques I discovered a while back on the internet. We headed out at dawn and stopped a few kilometers down the road for a quick breakfast. We're hoping to stay at an albergue in Larrasoana that comes highly recommended. We made pretty good time on the trail, now that we're into a rhythm with our poles. We are very cognizant of the terrain, aware of how blessed we have been with sunny weather. The hard packed clay path would be very treacherous in the rain. Then there's rocks and gravel with with shaky footing, giving us a definite appreciation for our poles. The spongy path through the forest, compliments of years of composting leaves is absolutely divine. Then throw in uphill and downhill... You get the gist. The Camino is also known as The Way, and it's funny how the path mimics life. We all go through rocky periods at some point, know the uphill stuff well, and enjoy coasting downhill as well as cushy times. When you put in 14 miles, it gives you plenty of time to think. When we got to Larrasoana there was only 1bed left at the albergue. The hospitalero (manager) had no sense of humor and didn't even crack a smile when I told him that Mike and I liked each other and could share it. We went door to door, working through all types of lodging. Finally nabbed the last 2 top bunks at the 5th place, a private home that takes in pilgrims. There are 6 of us in our room, a couple of bathrooms, plus a common area and small yard. Our hosts Vanessa and Alex are absolute angels. A shower and refreshments go a long way.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 8

    Time to Regroup

    September 6, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Pamplona, Spain
    One of the unique features of the Camino are the pilgrim suppers, a simple but hearty meal served at an earlier time than traditional Spanish dinners. Pilgrims from all over gather and break bread together. You may start the meal as total strangers, but everyone finds common ground to connect. Dinner last night was like a session of the United Nations, with 3 pilgrims from Hungary, one Italian, a German, a Frenchman and us. The conversation was a lively affair with stories translated into 3 languages. Mike thought he was off the hook this trip, but he got to do the honors of translating conversation into German, as his German is much better than mine. We learned just how fortunate we were to get our sleeping accommodations. Two of our dinner companions were sleeping on the kitchen floor at the local municipal albergue and one didn't even have a sleeping bag. Fortunately other pilgrims loaned him a mat that they weren't using. He was happy to be sleeping inside rather than out in a field. Our French friend related how on a previous pilgrimage a man had taken care of her when all lodging was full. He didn't have much but opened his heart and gladly shared what little he had. The kindness of strangers, no matter how big or small, is priceless. We have been the recipients as well, when my neck injury flared up. Turns out Anise, a lady staying in our same room, is a reflexologist. She worked her magic on my feet/neck and showed Mike what needed to be done. Didn't know how I was going to manage my backpack today, but somehow I did. We made it to Pamplona, a 2 hour bus ride to St Jean Pied de Port was a 4 day walk to return. This time we were somewhat familiar with the city and able to make good progress. We've decided to take a rest day here and were able to get 2 nights lodging. We are hoping to treat ourselves and get our clothes washed at a laundromat... the simple pleasures in life! Have also decided that our original plan to find lodging as we go in traditional pilgrim mode was just not feasible and needed to be reworked. Even though lodging options have increased dramatically, the Camino has become so popular that pilgrims far outnumber accomodations. The younger pilgrims are much faster, so our likelihood of obtaining anything upon arrival in town is not good. Comparing notes with many of our peers, most made arrangements months ago. Once we settled in today and I had access to WiFi, I got to work. Armed with the new knowledge of how far we can reasonably walk in a day and my handy dandy spreadsheet, I booked accommodations for the next 5 nights. Oh, and by the way, many of the women I talked with from multiple countries also had spreadsheets. Mike thinks it's the double X chromosome 😉.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 9

    Now You Tell Me

    September 7, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Pamplona, Spain
    We decided to treat ourselves and take a rest day in Pamplona. Sleeping in was such a luxury! Then it was off to run errands, like being on the doorstep of the laundry for an honest to goodness washing machine after doing the honors by hand since arrival. There's a medieval festival in town and the streets are filled with venders of all sorts and performers. Stalls of beautiful produce, baked goods to include loaves of bread the size of flat watermelons, spices and herbs for every ailment, candles and soaps, and the list goes on. People are everywhere, shopping, greeting their friends, and enjoying the action. We found a sporting goods store to pick up a few items and had a delightful conversation with the proprietor. He complimented me on my Spanish but said I had a Venezuelan accent. No big surprise, as that's where I learned Spanish. We got into a discussion on accents, and just like the USA, people from different parts of Spain speak differently. Evidently a British couple who live in Andalusia (Southern Spain) and frequent the store provide quite a bit of amusement from a linguistic perspective. The proprietor also asked where we started the Camino. When we told him St Jean Pied de Port, he laughed and asked how we enjoyed the climb over the Pyrenees. Seems most Spaniards avoid that part and start in Roncesvalles. Good to know! Once our errands were complete, we soaked up the local scene over coffee in an outdoor café on the plaza, right outside Hemingway's Hotel Perla. Great place to observe the running of the bulls, but a little pricey for our blood. We explored the ancient part of the city, tracing the path of the running of the bulls to the finish at Plaza del Toros. We went to a restaurant with a reputation for terrific pinxtos (think hors d'oeuvres on steroids) and ended up with a 3 course feast. We essentially spent our "rest" day walking around Pamplona, putting in a mere 5 miles on the feet.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 10

    On the Road Again

    September 8, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Puente la Reina, Spain
    Yesterday's rest day took its toll on our rhythm. It took us forever to get our act together and get back on the Camino this morning. We even missed a few signs and headed off in the wrong direction. The beauty of being easily identifiable as a pilgrim and the kindness of the Spanish people saved our bacon. Both times we hadn't strayed far before locals called to us and motioned us back on the right path. One of the greetings used by pilgrims, other than" Buen Camino!", is "Ultreia!" Couldn't find it in my Spanish dictionary, so I asked around. Finally got somewhat of an answer from the lady at the Camino center. It's an ancient greeting based on Latin, used by pilgrims to greet and encourage each other. There doesn't seem to be a direct translation, but I think it is akin to the "Hooah!" greeting used by Army folks, with a variety of meanings depending on the context. We find all sorts of encouragement along the way, anywhere from signs to acts of kindness such as the gentleman offering us figs who just completed his own Camino 8 days ago. Our destination is Puente la Reina, a mere 16.6 miles down the road and over the hills. We are getting better at hills. Today's Alto de Perdon, a mere 2,526 ft, combined old with new as wind turbines stretched out to the right of the Camino along the ridge. What goes up, must come down, and the steep descent was a killer with a tricky rock filled path of shaky footing. Thank heavens for poles.Read more

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