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Luck of the Irish
  • The Big Adventure

Luck of the Irish

A 30-day adventure by The Big Adventure Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 15, 2025
    The Big AdventureLuck of the IrishTraveler

    We finally made it!

    September 16 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    After a very long day of travel, we finally arrived in Dublin this morning. The gridlock from the airport to our hotel downtown rivaled NYC. We tried not to think about what’s in store for us when we’re in a rental car after the tour. Jet lag makes everything feel daunting. Check in isn’t until 3pm, so we have a bit of time to kill. Fortified by a strong cup of coffee, we managed to stumble around town and still find our way back. A long nap and hot shower later, we headed out for a simple dinner at a local pub. Bad Bob’s fit the bill with burgers, fries and a pint. The fries were absolutely amazing… crispy on the outside, positively creamy on the inside with the perfect amount of salt. We had a leisurely walk back along the river, admiring the sights of Dublin at night.Read more

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    Dublin ramblings

    September 17 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    When thinking of Ireland, emigration rather than immigration comes to mind with many folks of Irish ancestry found throughout the world. In our short time in Dublin we’ve encountered many folks from many different countries who have settled here. While flipping through tv channels to catch a bit of the news, we found channels in English, Gaelic, French and German. Toto, we’re definitely not in Kansas anymore! We spent the day exploring the streets of Dublin, taking in the sights. Breakfast at the Bank was quite the experience. Dating back to Viking times, a bank was in operation since the 1800’s. A major renovation in the early 1890’s brought a grandiose interior of Victorian splendor that exists to this day, though now a restaurant since 2003. The impressive vaults in the basement have been preserved and well worth a peak. We’ve learned that breakfast is taken seriously here, with a full Irish breakfast being a variety of meats to the point of overload. Whiskey is serious business as well. The whiskey menu was rather extensive, with one selection priced at 250 euros a shot! Porridge was one of the breakfast selections, with an optional shot of whiskey in it… quite the alternative to maple syrup 😉. We opted for eggs, which were equally delightful. The architecture of the city is fascinating, quite a mix of charming styles and plenty of character. We were rather surprised to stumble across a Camino marker near a cathedral, indicating the way to the St James gate. Dinner was at a place called Boxty’s, since our waitress at breakfast said we just had to try one. Turns out a boxty is like a potato pancake/ crepe, with a variety of fillings. We tried the chicken and the beef. Check plus star. We’ll have plenty of time for Irish stew and shepherds pie.Read more

  • The Big AdventureLuck of the IrishTraveler

    Has anyone seen Molly Malone?

    September 18 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    In Dublin’s fair city, where girls are so pretty, I’m still waiting to set eyes on sweet Molly Malone…. It’s a quiet day today, enjoying moving at a leisurely pace before the tour starts and we begin the drinking from a fire hydrant of facts and figures. Trying to be mindful of our waistlines, Irish porridge with rhubarb made an appearance for breakfast. We stopped off at an Aran sweater store, one of many throughout the city. These sweaters are famous for being hand knit and repelling the weather. They are absolutely lovely, featuring many different colors and patterns. Judging from the deep piles in all the stores, the islanders must knit day and night to be so prolific. We’ll see how long our “ no accumulation “ philosophy holds out 🤣. Dubliners take public transportation seriously, with a series of surface trains augmented by humongous double decker green buses crisscrossing the city. While we’ve just hoofed it so far, bet we could get just about anywhere on public transit. When you walk you tend to notice the little things like real estate signs advertising offices “to let” , “sale agreed”and property for sale by private treaty. The “to let” was fairly self explanatory, and sale agreed probably signifies under contract, but private treaty for 2 properties over 5,900 sq ft each most likely does not equate to for sale by owner. Inquiring minds will just have to try the listed phone number. We closed out the afternoon at the National Museum of Ireland, where the building was as much an exhibit as the artifacts within. A dainty golden boat complete with seats and tiny oars particularly caught our attention in addition to an exhibit of ancient manuscripts and the work being done to learn more about their origin proved fascinating. Of course the Vikings got included, as they certainly got around. We wandered back to the hotel for one last jet lag inspired nap before the games begin.Read more

  • The Big AdventureLuck of the IrishTraveler

    Found her!

    September 19 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    After a protein packed breakfast, we boarded the bus for a tour of Dublin. Now we find all about the sights we’ve been walking by and admiring. The Guinness brewery takes up over a city block and is older than the country itself. who knew? We located the bronze statue of sweet Molly Malone, also known to locals as “the tart with the cart” or “the trollop with the scallops “. The Irish do have a way with words😉. She gets touched on a regular basis for luck, unable to defend herself with her hands frozen to her cart. Cheeky tourists! We knew the Irish were not overly fond of the Brits, and today’s history lesson made it quite understandable. The potato famine in the 1800’s caused both mass starvation and emigration. What we didn’t learn in school was that Ireland is very fertile and there was no shortage of food. Seems the British controlled the farms and produce, exporting most of the food back to England and elsewhere. The population plummeted from 8 million and to this day still has only rebounded to 7 million. Signs of rebellion continue to be visible though sometimes subtle. In the Georgian section of the city, beautifully symmetrical brick buildings have the most colorful doors. When Queen Victoria lost her beloved Albert and went into deep mourning, she wanted them all painted black. The Irish responded by painting them all ABB (anything but black). We visited St Patrick’s Cathedral in all its splendor. Turns out Johnathan Swift of Gullivers Travels fame was the dean here. He was noted for lengthy sermons, upwards of 4 hours. To discourage checking eyelids for leaks while he waxed eloquent, he had the pulpit mounted on wheels to move it close to any offenders. So much for the safety of the back row in church. There were many military commemorative plaques throughout the cathedral, but one side chapel was designated as the area of reconciliation for those lost in conflict. In addition to plaques and carvings, there was a tree adorned with leaves on which anyone could inscribe the names of loved ones lost to conflict. The leaves are retained in perpetuity in addition to the regimental banners for those regiments that have been deactivated, in the tradition that old soldiers never die, they just fade away. On a lighter note, we enjoyed a yummy lunch in a restaurant called “The Pig’s Ear”. Of course we had to try the Guinness bread… very hearty, bitter Allen, beef croquettes of Dutch street vendor origin, pork and lamb chops. Best meal we’ve had so far.Read more

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    Heading north

    September 20 in Northern Ireland ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    We bid farewell to Dublin and boarded the bus bound for Belfast, Northern Ireland. The countryside was positively gorgeous , lush green fields bordered by hedgerows. We arrived in Belfast and headed straight to the Titanic Experience. Didn’t see that one coming. Turns out Belfast was quite the industrial city, with linen making and shipbuilding employing thousands of workers. The Titanic and her sister ship the Olympic were built here, side by side. Building the ship was quite a feat. Even though we’ve all seen the movie and we know how it ends, it didn’t make it any less moving. Many lessons were learned from that tragedy. The cafe was crowded so we ended up sharing a table with a British couple over on holiday. They clued us into checking out the nearby SS Nomadic, the last remaining White Star Line vessel that served as a tender for the Titanic to load passengers from the port of Cherbourg for Titanic’s maiden voyage. Afterwards we had a tour of Belfast, an industrial city still recovering from what our guide referred to as the “troubled times”. Peace Walls erected throughout the city, separating sections/factions and protecting vulnerable targets remain to this day, a sobering reminder of the violence that gripped this tiny nation through the late 90’s. Even though a peace deal was brokered, flags still fly in various sections to denote pro British strongholds versus pro united Ireland territory . It’s rather hard to wrap your mind around it. Lest we get too morbid, we ended the evening with our hotel’s Titanic Tasting Menu dinner. Hopefully there’s no icebergs on the horizon.Read more

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    Exploring the countryside

    September 21 in Northern Ireland ⋅ 🌙 48 °F

    Today we traveled the scenic route up the County Antrim Coast, gleaning tidbits of Irish life. The hedgerows that serve as fences for fields are highly encouraged by the government. They are a significant wildlife habitat, providing shelter and nesting areas for birds. Pruning is only permitted at certain times of year to avoid disturbing the birds. The Irish can also be a rather superstitious lot. When you see a bush/tree in a place that makes no sense, chances are it’s a fairy tree. Woe be to any mortal who dares to disturb it. We also learned that sheep are raised for meat rather than wool. The wool from the Irish sheep is very coarse and not really usable. All those lovely sweaters and woolen clothing is made in Ireland, but from imported wool. Interesting 🤨. As we drove along the coast we spotted multiple salmon and mussels farms in the water. Sustainability is important. We stopped off in Bushmills for a protein packed lunch. I feel guilty when I only eat about half of what they serve me, but the portions are so generous we couldn’t possibly eat it all. We had an opportunity to walk some of it off when we reached The Giant’s Causeway. Fascinating rock formations accompanied by legends of feuding giants made for an interesting hike. We also learned that Scotland is only 12 miles away as the crow flies. Fortunately the sun came out and skies were sufficiently clear that we could spot Scotland in the distance. While at a local restaurant for dinner, we had a nice chat with a young couple from Ohio who were Pittsburgh Steelers fans. Seems the NFL is invading Ireland, as the Steelers take on the Vikings next week in Dublin. That explains all the banners we saw. Knowing that Dublin was originally a Viking town, I wonder who they’ll be rooting for 🤣.Read more

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    On the subject of history

    September 22 in Ireland ⋅ 🌙 48 °F

    We departed Belfast and headed to Derry/Londonderry and in some ways it felt like jumping from the fat into the fire. Initially when founded, it was named Derry after the many oaks in its landscape. When Londoners came one in the 1640s to build the walls of the city, it was renamed Londonderry. Nowadays it’s Derry to the Catholics and Londonderry to the Protestants. Some road signs actually have the London part scratched out. History is not always pleasant and can be downright messy. What we always thought of as a failure of Catholics and Protestants to get along… rather silly when both are forms of Christianity, cuts so much deeper. Once King Henry broke away from the Catholic Church and established the Church of England, the Catholics got the short end of the stick and were subjected to all sorts of social discrimination from jobs to housing etc. From the sounds of it, land ownership was a pyramid scheme, with the Crown as the landlord. British nobility had long term leases for great parcels of land, which in turn they gave shorter leases of parcels to individuals of lower ranking, who in turn had tenant farmers. All along the way, everyone is paying rent and improvements would increase rent thereby reducing incentive. By the time all levels paid their rent, it didn’t leave much for those at the bottom who never stood a chance of bettering their lot. Potatoes were rather prolific, so that was what the folks at the bottom of the food chain relied upon until the blight hit and the potato famine either killed them or forced emigration. Ships carrying these starving folks were referred to as coffin ships as it was not uncommon for passengers to have a 60% mortality rate. To put it bluntly, life was pretty grim for Irish Catholics and it didn’t improve much when you fast forward to after the Republic of Ireland gained independence from the UK and Northern Ireland was created. Discrimination remained rampant and religious persuasion was fairly simple to discern based on name and address. Voting was tied to property ownership. If you owned 2 houses, you had 2 votes. If you didn’t own property, then you didn’t have a vote. The civil rights movements in the US fueled/coincided with civil unrest in Northern Ireland, with Belfast and Derry being epicenters for riots and violence. John Hume was a visionary leader and peace maker who finally succeeded in bringing about peace, earning the Nobel Peace Prize, Gandhi Peace Prize, and the Martin Luther King Jr Nonviolent Peace Prize. The mind boggling part is that the Peace Accords were just signed in 1998, and many vestiges of the “troubled times” remain. Peace walls protect high value targets, some of which are still monitored to this day. Our local guide ended with a plea to learn from the past so we don’t repeat it.Read more

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    1

    Belleek anyone?

    September 23 in Ireland ⋅ 🌙 52 °F

    For years my mother treasured her piece of Belleek, a delicate, translucent piece of Irish china. Today we had the opportunity to take a tour of the Belleek Pottery Centre, where it’s been produced since 1857. The process was fascinating, starting in most cases with Plaster of Paris molds. The thin and delicate pieces are made by pouring a liquid mixture of clay into the mold and allowing it to dry a closely timed interval. The artist then carefully smooths out the edges and applies trim and ornamentation prior to the initial firing. The piece is dipped in a substance to give it a translucent look and fired again. Colored glaze is next, followed by a third firing. The pieces are thoroughly inspected for quality and any found lacking are destroyed. The are no seconds where Belleek is concerned. We watched an artisan carefully construct a woven basket. She said her apprenticeship was 4 years and she’s now been working here for 24 years. Time and skill are of the essence, as she’s paid by the piece, not the hour. Oh, and did I mention that the guy who started it all was named Caldwell, and Castle Caldwell was just up the road a piece. Perhaps if I’d known that in advance I could have done the Chevy Chase National Lampoon European Vacation routine and been invited to tea! Instead we settled for scones and tea in the cafe. Afterwords we headed into Donegal to explore the town. We found the perfect Irish tweed cap for Mike at Hanna’s Hats, a small shop where they make their own hats on the outskirts of town. We celebrated our purchase in a pub with the locals watching the steeplechase. Back on the grounds of our hotel we learned that the international Appalachian Trail went by the grounds. Of course we had to head down and check it out, hiking a small section sans backpacks of course 😉.Read more

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    Poetry and perspective

    September 24 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    We got an early start to head to the land of hearts desire. Our first stop was in Drumcliff at St Columba’s Church where WB Yeats, the famous Irish poet is buried. You can’t just say Yeats, as a Yeats Sr (father or grandfather) was the pastor there. Kind of feel sorry for the guy as the young lady he fell in love with turned him down. He waited for years until her daughter was eligible, but she also turned him down. Like mother like daughter 😉. He finally married one of the daughter’s friends. Hmmm. This seems to be a recurrent theme in romantic Irish history, as we heard a similar story back at the Ulster American Folk Park. We made a mid morning stop for tea and scones at the Yeats Country Inn. Scones will be the downfall of my waistline, but they just taste so good here. We pushed on to the Kylemore Abbey in Connemara and headed straight for lunch… eating again??? We’ll walk it off exploring I hope. The abbey was originally built as a private residence. Over the years it changed hands until finally being acquired by the Benedictine nuns who turned it into a school for young ladies. Evidently Angelica Huston had the pleasure of attending.. In addition to a great cafe with legendary apple pie among other delectables , the nuns also make a liquor similar to Baileys, only using wine instead of whisky. Party in our room tonight! The walled garden on the hillside is spectacular. In addition to touring the house, church and garden, you can signup to help feed the pigs. Those nuns never miss a trick! We finally made it to our hotel, Ashford Castle in Cong, County Mayo. We got off the bus and were greeted by a bagpiper, who led us across the moat to the castle where the staff stood lined up to welcome us Downton Abbey style. We could easily get used to this, but it’ll be a rude awakening once the tour is over and we’re on our own.Read more

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    Life of leisure

    September 25 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 63 °F

    After 7 days of touring nonstop, we opted to take a more leisurely pace today and slept in past 7:30. There’s nothing on the official schedule, just multiple options for boating, fishing, spa treatments and the usual stuff associated with a castle 🤣. We had the opportunity to accompany the groundskeeper at 8:15 as he walked the dogs, but sleeping in won out. Our plan is to move at our own pace, explore a little on our own, and soak up the ambiance. The porridge at breakfast was absolutely yummy, especially with the splash of whisky in it. Just had to try it though the fruit compote was what really made it tasty. We walked in to the small town of Cong… no King Kong but evidently The Quiet Man movie with John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara are its claim to fame. John Wayne certainly got around. Years ago I was surprised to see him in a painting at the Alamo. Here he’s immortalized by a sculpture of him sweeping Maureen O’Hara up in his arms. Just might have to watch that movie when we get home. We got a closeup look at the stone walls common to this area referred to as dry walls since they are composed of stones fitted together carefully without the use of mortar. Now that took some talent. After doing the town we walked back to Ashford Castle through the woods along the river. We’ve heard repeatedly about a huge storm (along the lines of Hurricane Helene) that devastated parts of Ireland in January. Cong did not escape and walking back through the woods reminded us of back home in NC with many downed and uprooted trees. It was a glorious day to be outside roaming the countryside, followed by tea (in Mikes case a Guinness) in one of the many drawing rooms. We’re scheduled for dinner in the Dungeon tonight so after yesterday we’re trying to do a better job of pacing ourselves.Read more

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    Tales and tunes of Ireland

    September 26 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    Mike pried me out of Ashford Castle, kicking and screaming the whole way. It’s so lovely here, do we really have to go? We headed to Galway, cultural capital of Ireland on the west coast. Connor, our local guide filled our heads with tales of Irish chieftains, Vikings and Normans who came and assimilated into Ireland until they were more Irish than the Irish. Of course there’s multiple versions of stories and as Connor put it, never let the truth get in the way of a good story 😉. The west of Ireland was the poorest area, and when the potato famine hit, Galway was the major port of emigration for those who left. The way to the pier was dubbed the longest walk as those were the last steps in Ireland before boarding a boat. We learned the secret to making Irish coffee, followed by a practical exercise of making and drinking (of course) our own. We explored the streets and harbor before settling for ice cream in a small shop. Wouldn’t you know that we sat next to a lady from a small town in Pennsylvania I used to go to many years ago and we knew the same people. Small world. We drove through the area called the Burren… which was pretty barren, and headed to the Cliffs of Moher. Talk about massive cliffs, crashing seas, and pretty stiff winds. We could see the Aran Islands in the distance, our first stop after the tour ends. So glad we booked the ferry out of Rosaveel and not Doolin. Let’s hope the sea settles down or it’ll be a long ride. We ended up in Ennis, a small town a bit off the usual tourist track. After a sumptuous dinner of lamb we were treated to a performance by a local musical group with dancers. There were 2 harps, a fiddle, accordion, concertina and pipe. Beautiful music and when the soloist sang, it was a Capela with the most haunting yet lilting melodies. 2 young folks danced with much tapping and kicks. They started learning at age 4 and the young man was only 14. Amazing. In closing, here’s an Irish toast: Here’s to cheating, fighting, stealing and drinking. If you cheat, cheat death. If you fight, fight for each other. If you must steal, may you steal the heart of a lover. And if you’re drinking, drink with me.Read more

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    Got milk?

    September 27 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    After a leisurely stroll through the little town of Ennis this morning we boarded the bus and headed to Kilmallock to visit Molanna Dairy Farm. Heading south we are passing through the area known as the golden vale as the land is very fertile and dotted with many small family dairy farms. Margaret and Paddy welcomed us to the farm that has been in their family for generations and is currently run by their son Patrick. We learned that Irish milk has a higher nutritional content than most of Europe. The dairy farms can earn a bonus for their milk, based on the fat and protein content. Fat and protein content are a factor of breeding and diet. These cows are primarily grass fed, specifically perennial rye grass with a touch of clover. Nice leafy grass with minimal stems is the key. The cows graze in rotating pastures all summer long. They are brought in to the barns November to March, depending on the weather. No point in risking having wet fields torn up by grazing livestock. When in the barn the cows are fed silage. Silage is different than hay. It’s grass that’s mowed and allowed to dry for a day or two depending on the weather. Then it is rolled and hermetically sealed into plastic where it ferments but does not spoil. Patrick has done an amazing job of expanding the family dairy from 50 to over 200 cows, planning for the future and successive generations. After a tour of the dairy we headed back to the farmhouse for a light lunch of turkey, potato salad, the creamiest and most wonderful coleslaw I’ve ever had, and a variety of breads. As we finished, their grandson poked his head in on his way to a hurling match and did his best to explain that Irish national sport. Not sure we got the gist but we’d just celebrated our tour company’s 100th anniversary with a potent shot of mead . Poor fella didn’t stand a chance. We had to fight to stay awake on the bus to Killarney. Where we took a horse drawn surry with the fringe on top ride through the national park. Our driver was quite the character with a never ending patter of jokes , stories, and snappy commentary. Through in a fancy dinner at a local restaurant and we’ll call it a day.Read more

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    Coastal driving

    September 28 in Ireland ⋅ 🌙 52 °F

    A scenic drive along the Ring of Kerry was on tap for today and Mother Nature cooperated with beautiful sunshine. We stopped off at one scenic overlook where a gentleman by the name of Paddy demonstrated the art of making a St Bridgette’s Cross from rushes. Our tour director bought one for each of us as they supposedly will not allow any harm or evil spirit to pass her protective charm. That will be put to the test when we strike out on our own after the tour in a rental car, driving on the left side of the road ! Our next stop included a working sheepdog demonstration. It takes about 2 years to train a dog who shows an aptitude for herding. Patrick and his dog Claire were amazing to watch. Verbal commands become whistles when at a distance, for go left, right, get close to the sheep, and stop. The goal is to move the sheep calmly. Claire never uttered a sound as she positioned herself strategically and stared down the sheep. She was extremely efficient and effective at moving the sheep down the steep rocky hillside, doing the work of 10 men. Impressive! We continued on along the Ring of Kerry with breathtaking coastline. Even though we’re bundled up in our puffy jackets, we actually saw a guy in swimming trunks taking a dip and the local bicycling club was out in full force making the circuit. The little town of Sneem was our jumping off point as the ring goes on for over 100 kilometers of twisty winding roads sufficiently narrow that buses and only permitted to travel in one direction on the route. We headed back to Killarney to explore the town before calling it a day.Read more

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    Turning water into whisky

    September 29 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Our Irish immersion continues as we head towards Kilkenny. The Irish have make a concerted effort to preserve their culture. In addition to an athletic league of national sports such as hurling, many families ensure their children are exposed and learn to speak Irish. Kids are sent to areas that speak primarily Irish for 3 weeks during the summer. Sometimes staying in dorms or with an Irish speaking family, they have a great experience learning the language, culture, and making new friends. Guess that’s the Irish version of summer camp. Ireland was primarily an agricultural nation until the 1960’s, when they encouraged foreign investment and industry. Pharmaceutical companies such as Abbott and Pfizer established plants here, among others. Today we’re heading to Middleton where Jameson whisky and a few others are made. The distillery was established in 1825, but nearly done in by Prohibition in the US. Today it’s a thriving business and we learned all about whiskey making. Basic ingredients are barley, malt, corn and water. To get malt, barley is steeped in water 2 days, then spread out on a floor for 4 days to germinate. Once sprouted, it’s taken to the kiln floor and dried with gentle heat from a smokeless anthracite coal (in Scotland they use peat, thus the smokey flavor) . Malted barley is ground to flour, mixed with more barley and soaked in water. The liquid is drained for use while the grain is recycled as cattle feed. The liquid starts at 10% alcohol, rising to 30% after the first distilling, 70% the second, and 84% the third. Irish whiskey is triple distilled in copper pots. Corn is mixed with malted barley to make 94 proof grain alcohol in a column still. Both are blended to make the cherished brew that has to be aged 3 years before it can be called whiskey. Oak barrels from the US and Spain are used for aging, with the supply of barrels kept constant since in the US a barrel can only be used once to age bourbon and something similar for Spain. The oak plus former contents of each barrel impart specific characteristics to the liquid. Water is added to the third distillate to bring the liquid to 60% alcohol when it goes into the barrels. As it sits and ages, evaporation takes place, referred to as the angel’s share. Judging from the smell in the warehouse, those must be some pretty happy angels. We finished our tour with a whiskey tasting: a Jameson 5-6 years old, a Green spot whiskey 7-10 years old, and a Redbreast matured in 4 different types of barrels and blended after 10 years. The smoothness of the Jameson got my vote, though Mike preferred the complexity of the Redbreast. After lunch we toured Jerpoint Abbey to explore the life of a 12th century monk. They arose at 2 am, had prayers 8 times a day, worked all day in the fields with only one meal a day primarily vegetarian with some fish, and allowed to enjoy the warmth of a heated room 10 minutes out of each day. Think I’d rather stick with the whiskey 😉Read more

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    Perspective

    September 30 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Global inner connections come up repeatedly as we hear of prominent Americans with Irish connections and vice versa. One of the leaders of an Irish uprising was born in NY. When all the other leaders were put to death, he was spared to avoid backlash from the US. Many a successful Irish immigrant has returned home and shared the wealth. An unexpected story, though, is that the Choctaw nation sent money to Ireland during the potato famine. To commemorate their generosity there’s a feather sculpture in Middleton. On a tour of Kilkenny our guide pointed out the impact of Christianity on modern civilization, transforming us from a survival of the fittest and might makes right society to one of rules, order and structure. Permanent structure and cities were built on law and order. Irish cities mostly were built castle to cathedral, with the important places up on the hill and not so important stuff down by the river. This penal laws imposed by King Henry when he broke away from the Catholic Church (keeping their assets of course) were in effect over 340 years, making life difficult for Catholics. Obviously they persisted, but Irish Catholic Churches built in the 19th century are of 3 basic designs for economy’s sake since seized assets were long gone. One church, though built by the Dominicans, is rather opulent with many stained glass windows designed to uplift the masses. Evidently the Dominicans were considered rock stars of their day, making use of black robes to market all their wonderful accomplishments during the black plague. Kilkenny was quite a prosperous city back in the day and the original capital of Ireland. Unfortunately being on a river couldn’t compete with a seaport, so the capital moved to Dublin. Interesting factoids, baking and brewing were big business in Kilkenny. The city walls provided safety from marauders like the Vikings, and great military ceremony went into closing the city gates at night , a practice called dusking. We noticed windows in ancient stone buildings that were filled in by stone. Evidently Queen Elizabeth I was in need of funds for military campaigns, so she imposed a tax on windows. Let’s just say that tax evasion is nothing new. After a morning of exploring Kilkenny, we headed back to the hotel where Andi opted for a mini facial (yesssss) while Mike went for falconry. He said the birds were amazing hunters and even had the opportunity to have one land on him. Hopefully all our little song birds back home will forgive him!Read more

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    Into every life a little rain must fal…

    October 2 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    The party’s over and the tour completed. Farewell posh hotels, 3 course meals, and someone holding our hand (and schleping our luggage). We’re now on our own for better or worse. We picked up a rental car and headed for the west side of the island to get to the Aran Islands. Driving in Ireland is quite the adventure. Roads are narrow with no shoulder but curbs or rock walls just dying to make your acquaintance. If that weren’t challenging enough, throw in driving on the left. Mike drives while Andi navigates, prays, and leans towards the right, willing us off the roadside obstacles. We may not have gotten many steps in, but it was definitely aerobic exercise. Fortunately Mike had been checking out our phone navigation apps while still on the tour bus, encountered issues with the ones we usually use, and got a new one that is working just fine over here. We made it as far as the little town of Barna, where we stopped for a light lunch and hit the grocery store to pick up a few items to tide us over for dinner and breakfast until we get the lay of the land. That grocery stop turned out to be quite fortuitous. We made it to the ferry terminal in Rossaveal in plenty of time. Our ferry leaves at 6 pm, so mostly locals returning home from the mainland. Not much to explore in Rossaveal, though we did manage to walk past the marina and check out the boats ( old habits die hard) before heading to a pub a mile down the road. Our ferry to Inis Mor, the largest of the Aran Islands was fairly uneventful. The challenge came when we arrived. The locals quickly got into cars and left. We ended up on a deserted pier, not a taxi in sight. The sole remaining crew member took pity on us and pointed out the pub up the hill where we might be able to get help, as he got on his bicycle and took off. We trudged up the hill and found someone to call a taxi. He knew just where to go with only Clare in Kilmurvey to go on. He sped down the narrow roads lickety split as he wanted to get back to his dinner before it got cold. We’re just glad we made it to our lodging before the rain set in. To say our lodging is remote is putting it mildly. The vending machine in the entryway was a clue. At least it was stocked with Guinness, so Mike had a brew in place of a hot dinner. We slept through the night, listening to the howling of the wind and rain. According to the forecast, it’s set in for the duration of our stay. Good sleeping weather, but not conducive to hiking and exploring. Fortunately the little apartment has a washer and dryer, so we’ll make the most of it.Read more

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    Just chilling

    October 2 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 59 °F

    We had a quiet day of doing laundry and just chilling waiting for a break in the weather. The wind and rain waxed and waned. We finished laundry and decided to brave the elements. Hiking was out, though we did see a couple on bikes riding in the rain in just jeans and sweaters. We called the island taxi and headed for town. On the way he pointed out a pub and a few shops down the way and within walking distance of where we were staying. Would have been nice if our host had clued us in. We tucked into a crowded pub in town and chowed down on a late, protein packed hot lunch. Then we cruised the sweater shops. My suspicions regarding the plentiful supply of Aran Islands sweaters were confirmed. First clue was during the tour, when we were told that the Irish wool was too coarse and not usable. At the shop in town were the display tables piled high with sweaters of many designs and colors. Then there was a discrete sign pointing out a back room labeled hand knit sweaters. The price tags were double the standard fare. Suspect the designs are from the islands and the sweaters are made in Ireland just not hand knit on the islands. No matter, they are lovely just the same. When our favorite taxi returned us to our lodging, we arranged to have him pick us up early in the morning to catch the 8:15 ferry back. It’s good that we had booked the morning ferry as we heard that the late day ferry has been cancelled due to the storm that’s coming. Looks like we will have the Dramamine and ondanzetron in the ready position.Read more

  • The Big AdventureLuck of the IrishTraveler

    Soggy r us

    October 3 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 54 °F

    Never been so happy to see a taxi as when our taxi buddy Mike showed up right on time this morning. I dreaded getting out of the taxi and waiting on the pier as the wind and rain was nonstop. Fortunately they let us get right on, so we headed below and midship to the most stable place on the boat. We settled in, popped Dramamine ginger chews in our mouths prophylactically, and away we went. Looking back at Inis Mor, I’m sorry the weather didn’t cooperate for us to explore the island. The landscape is so severe, with fields more rock than soil. The stone walls that partition the fields look like lace made of stone, as you can see light through the holes in them. Suspect it helps decrease windage, but truth be told the walls are built as a way to clear the stones from the fields. The passage back to Rossaveal was rather uneventful and a lot smoother due to following seas. Did notice that this morning they gave us a safety briefing as we got underway, unlike the passage over with a conspicuous lack of the standard briefing we’ve come to expect. Once the passengers were unloaded, the ferry turned around and hightailed it for home port on Inis Mor to beat the storm. We got in our rental car and headed for Limerick. The drive wasn’t too bad despite the rain and we made it in time for lunch at a local pub. We roamed some of the streets of Limerick before trying to locate our lodging that doesn’t quite seem to have an address or show up in our navigation app. We are staying at the Shannon River House and Estate, a place steeped in Irish history and built by the son of the young Ireland leader William Smith O’Brien and passed down through the generations. Its restoration is a work in progress. The place is pretty secluded and it took several passes before we located the hidden drive with an iron gate offset down the lane. We finally arrived and were greeted by our host Mark, who along with his 2 dalmations, showed us around the place. It’s a fascinating old home and we’re looking forward to exploring the grounds tomorrow.Read more

  • The Big AdventureLuck of the IrishTraveler

    There once was a man from Nantucket

    October 4 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    Last night the wind howled as it rained, so we slept in snug as a bug in a rug. After a leisurely breakfast of scones and tea, we discovered that the wind had blown down a tree that was now blocking the drive to the house. Mark, our host, and Mike headed out with a handy dandy chainsaw to clear the road. Meanwhile I had a lovely chat with 2 young ladies from Germany who are touring Ireland for 2 weeks. They highly recommended we visit Scotland as well, so put that on the list for next time. Also had a nice chat with an older lady from Australia. We compared travel notes. She did a day trip to Inis Mor a day before we and the rain arrived. She took a horse cart tour around the island and said it was very beautiful in a rugged sort of way. We’ll take her word for it. We headed into Limerick to explore again with a new set of eyes. In search of the Milk Market, we wandered up and down streets in the vicinity. Settled into a little restaurant for a brunch of bacon and eggs plus our first cup of coffee in 2 days. We were the only tourists in the place, and to add to the authenticity an older gentleman started up a conversation in Irish with me. All I could do was smile and nod. We still had time left on our parking space so decided to explore a bit more. When we finally decided we should head back to the car, we were so turned around we weren’t sure where it was. In the process we stumbled on the Milk Market, an open air market with all sorts of goodies: produce, baked goods, meat, honeys and jams, plus a variety of arts and crafts. We had a delightful time wandering the aisles, then somehow managed to find ourselves back at the car. It’s a beautiful sunny day with just an occasional stray shower, perfect for exploring the grounds of our lodging. There’s an old stone church, enticing but locked up tight and in a sad state of repair. The gardens and lush green meadows lead down to a river where one can fish for salmon. The apple and pear trees are loaded with fruit and raspberries are abundant on the canes. Wisteria vines and ivy cover the house, and it’s all picturesque and quaint. Hard to imagine growing up here as our host did before leaving to serve 35 years in the army. We were amazed to learn he’d done a tour at Ft Bragg. He’s now retired and doing his best to restore his childhood home that’s been in the family for 5 generations. We wish him well as it’ll be a never ending task.Read more

  • The Big AdventureLuck of the IrishTraveler

    Getting into the local scene

    October 5 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    We bid a fond farewell to Mark, our gracious host in Limerick, wishing him much success in restoring his family home. Onto Dingle we drove taking in beautiful scenery of vibrant green fields resembling a patchwork quilt with the hedgerow borders. It’s amazing how much the landscape has changed from the stone fields of the west coast to the lush and fertile countryside of the southwest. We stopped off for lunch in a sweet little town called Tralee. Suspect we’ve entered one of the primarily Irish speaking areas as signs are predominantly in Irish. The murals and wall art in Tralee were very creative and attention grabbing, clearly communicating their message. We pressed on to Dingle where much to our delight, the Dingle Food Festival was in full swing. Our delight soon turned into horror as streets were blocked off and cars parked everywhere. At one point we had serious doubts about having enough space to pass through the parked cars on both sides. Fortunately a guy in the group of pedestrians noted our predicament, and quickly stepped in as a ground guide. We sucked in our breath as the car’s proximity sensors went wild and squeezed through the very narrow space. Fortunately we didn’t have much further to go. We parked the car at our lodging and headed back into town on foot to explore. Everybody and his brother were out in the streets lined with all sorts of food vendors. It all smelled great, but we were still full from lunch. After cruising the streets we discovered the grocery store and stopped in to pick up breakfast fixins. Then we headed to a pub for some liquid libations. Two Irish fellows who were in for the festival joined us at our table. Between the noise and the accents, I think I got most of what they said. They were brothers, coming from a family of 13 children. Their father was from Belfast, and when he died, their mother took all 13 kids and moved back to Belfast. It was back during the Troubled Times, and even though Gavin was only 5, he remembers the tension and not being allowed to go out in the street to play. The family only lasted a few months before moving out of the city. Even though it’s been over 27 years since the Peace Accords, he vehemently told us what murderous thugs the British were. He also explained how the IRA came to be, but didn’t condone their actions either. He was profoundly grateful to the USA, Clinton administration and George Mitchell for helping to broker peace through the Good Friday Agreement. Funny how we so easily forget the good things accomplished through diplomacy. We had a lively conversation until it was time for them to catch the bus home. These encounters, away from all the touristy stuff is the experience we were hoping for.Read more

  • The Big AdventureLuck of the IrishTraveler

    Few sticks but plenty of stones

    October 6 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    After a hike into town for a latte at the only place we could find open and serving, it became clear why most of the lodgings are Bed and Breakfasts. Good thing we know our way around grocery stores 😉. We decided to drive around the Dingle Peninsula, a scenic coastal drive similar to the Ring of Kerry only on a much smaller scale. IMHO it was better, with much less traffic and plenty of places to pull over to admire the spectacular view. Fortunately Dermot, our host, told us to drive the loop clockwise, as the road was not very wide and frequently down to one lane. We’ve learned to laugh at the posted speed limits, as they seem to be a challenge for those with a death wish. We are usually way below as is much of the traffic. There’s no shame in pulling over and letting someone go by who is on a mission. We passed up opportunities to pet lambs, watch working sheep dogs or tour potato famine cottages. How depressing would that be??? We did stop to check out the ring forts called Beehive Huts dating back to 2000BC and occupied through 1200AD. These circular huts are architectural marvels resembling beehives made of stone. The craftsmanship was incredible as they are constructed of circular layers of flat stones without any mortar in a method called corbeling . Each successive layer of stone is slightly closer to the center as they are built upwards until just a small stone is required to close the top. Long flat stones strategically placed form doorways. On the exterior the stones have a down and outward tilt to shed rain. The huts even had a niche in a wall for a fire I suspect. No wonder they have stood the test of time. Can’t imagine what life must have been like, but you’d have to be pretty darn tough to survive in that environment. We’re happy to return back to our comfortable lodging, hot showers, and delicious seafood dinners.Read more

  • The Big AdventureLuck of the IrishTraveler

    On the road again

    October 7 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    This morning we headed to Kinsale, a small town on the southwestern coast. We had intended to stop along the way for an early lunch, but it was all back roads through 2 cow villages at best. We’re in what’s known as Gaeltacht, the primarily Irish speaking area of Ireland. Although Mike was driving, navigating is quite the challenge, trying to go back and forth between the gps and actual narrow road with hairpin turns, connecting roads, and signs in Gaelic with fine print English. I was exhausted by the time we arrived . Kinsale is a quaint little town and very proud of their Tidy Town designation… which means exactly what it says. Kinsale also has significant history in the struggles between the British and Spanish with their Irish chieftains allies. Hopefully we’ll learn more about that when we explore tomorrow.Read more

  • The Big AdventureLuck of the IrishTraveler

    Sunshine!

    October 8 in Ireland ⋅ 🌙 57 °F

    Amazing what a difference a good night’s sleep and sunshine can make! We were a tad miserable as we wandered around the town of Kinsale yesterday in the grey damp drizzle. Today the heavens took pity on us and bestowed a beautifully clear day complete with sunshine. After scarfing down tea and doughnuts in our room, we headed out to hike the Scilly Way, heading for Charles Fort. On our way through town we just happened to stumble upon the Wednesday market with a variety of vendors hawking their wares. The baker had a couple of raisin marzipan buns that literally screamed our names, even though it meant carrying them with us on our hike. Good thing Mike has big pockets 😉. We continued on, but only made it as far as the Spaniard pub, when we couldn’t go a step further without caffeine. While we sat outside nursing our lattes, the locals made short work of pints. Guess it’s 5 o’clock somewhere. Walking along the bay we couldn’t help noticing the fairly significant tidal variation. Tide was out and sailboats sat on their keels in the mud. Some were actually lashed to the sea wall and standing upright on their keels. Wow. As we walked the Scilly Way, we came across a race in progress, 3 small sailboats accompanied by a chase boat. A great addition to the scenery. As we hiked on, I couldn’t help but notice the rock walls lining the way, with flat rocks standing on edge, carefully fitted together. No idea how old they are, but suspect they have stood the test of time based on how weathered they were plus the labor alone would be cost prohibitive nowadays. When the path headed downward again, which meant a climb upwards on return, we made the command decision that we didn’t need to go all the way to the fort. Good call. Looks like we were in the mini Camino mode as we put in over 21,000 steps and 7.5+ miles before the day was over. We stopped off in town for a delicious lunch of scallops before heading around the bay in the other direction. Stumbled across another Tauck tour group though different tour director and bus driver. A little nostalgia there. While we miss the 5 star accommodations and having someone else take care of all the arrangements, it is good to be on our own and moving at our own pace. We dined al fresco on the front porch of our lodging watching the sun set. Perfect ending to a wonderful day.Read more

  • The Big AdventureLuck of the IrishTraveler

    Not such a long way to Tipperary

    October 9 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Every now and then you get an itch you just have to scratch. When we were in Maine, it was Caribou, Maine. Turned out to be the middle of nowhere except for NOAA, and no visitors were allowed 😔. In Ireland that itch was Tipperary. How many times over the years has the phrase “it’s a long way to Tipperary “ fallen casually from our lips? We looked at the map, saw it was within reasonable driving distance, and it was a sunny day… so why not? The first clue should have been when I consulted Fodor’s Guide to Ireland and it was listed nowhere. Undeterred, I picked up a brochure from the Kinsale tourist bureau. Most of the stuff listed was for Tipperary County, not the city/town. Surely there must be some hidden gems. We arrived around lunchtime and had a look around. Let’s just say that the WWII tune “It’s a long way to Tipperary “ may have put Tipperary on the map but it has taken to falling off ever since. After lunch at one of only 3 places open for service, we stumbled upon the Maid of Erin, a statue commemorating the execution of 3 Irish Nationals in 1867 and currently standing on the site where in 1920 the British burned down the homes of 2 prominent IRA leaders of one of the most active IRA units during the war of independence. The cold, somber vibe around town was reminiscent of Northern Ireland. The shopkeeper where we bought a bottle of water for the return trip was very congenial, but you could tell that they don’t get many strangers or tourists around here. Curiosity satisfied, we beat feet back to Kinsale to enjoy the remainder of our time there.Read more

  • The Big AdventureLuck of the IrishTraveler

    Crystal if you please

    October 10 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Remember back in the 70’s and 80’s when we just had to have Waterford Crystal to go with our china??? Ireland has been known for Waterford Crystal since forever. It began back in 1783 until 1851. Attempts to restart the business finally came to fruition in 1947 and carried on until 2009, when workers fought hard to keep the factory open. The Waterford brand is currently owned by a Finnish group and most of the crystal is produced in Eastern Europe. But we all still associate Waterford Crystal with Ireland. Since we were passing by Waterford on our way to Wexford, of course we had to stop. Couldn’t be this close and miss out on the opportunity. As we wandered around town, wracking up the step count trying to find the Waterford Crystal Center, we encountered an older gentleman about our age who pointed us in the right direction after sharing that his 94 year old mother still won’t let him anywhere near her Waterford Crystal. To think that I just gladly gave all mine to my son and daughter in law before we moved. How motherhood has changed! We wandered around the showroom and admired all the lovely crystal pieces without the slightest desire to take any home. I did get my question answered about lead in the crystal. Their recommendation is not to leave liquid in decanters for any prolonged length of time. Good to know. Waterford is actually Ireland’s oldest city, founded by the Vikings in the 9th century and later taken over by the Norman Strong Bow until eventually falling to Cromwell. It languished until the advent of crystal making, and the rest is history.Read more

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