Madagascar
Marsh

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    • Day 11

      Balancing Acts

      February 11, 2023 in Madagascar

      It would never occur to me to go for a stroll with beach bag on my head, but here in Africa people carry many things this way!

      This trio of young men, for instance, looked like guys you might see anywhere as they checked their cell phones, talking and laughing… except for the bundles of fabric they casually carried on their heads.

      At one point, I noticed a woman gracefully carrying a box of bread on her head, as well as a baby in a sling on her back.

      As I admired her balance, another woman waved her over. The bread lady casually weaved through traffic, then knelt in front of her.

      After this customer chose a loaf and money changed hands, the bread lady rose to her feet and continued on her way!
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    • Day 11

      Hellville Market

      February 11, 2023 in Madagascar

      According to Philippe, the difference between a town and a village in Madagascar is that a town has electricity and a village does not.

      We ended our tour of Nosy Be with a visit to the the town of Hellville.

      I noticed charcoal for sale in various places. Philippe says most people rely on it to cook food. “Our villages have no TV, of course, so that’s why we have so many children,” Philippe joked.

      “Before, every family in Madagascar wanted 14 children. That was the wish. But now, our government tells us that’s too many. So now we try to only have a few, maybe five or six. Not so many as before.”

      Philippe went on to explain that, “We have many problems here, but religion is not one of them.”

      Philippe told us that since the 18 tribes of Madagascar already have such a wide variety of different beliefs, “So no one cares if you have a different religion. People can worship what they like. We even have ‘Muslics’ here. These are people who observe Ramadan, celebrate Christmas, and whatever else they want.”

      As we contemplated his words, he added, “Everything’s ok here, you know? It’s Hakuna Matata, baby!”

      It was an entertaining ride to the Hellville Market. The spice section of the market smelled lovely. Larry and I bought some vanilla from the woman in the first photo.

      Madagascar is also known for its pepper corns. I love pepper, but wasn’t sure why they put them in old plastic water bottles.

      As I walked over to a basket of muddy crabs, I thought I saw a cat zip by out of my peripheral vision. I even felt a little whisper of air. According to Larry, however, it was a great big rat!
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    • Day 11

      Zebu

      February 11, 2023 in Madagascar

      Zebu are extremely important animals in Madagascar and we saw them everywhere we went.

      Zebu are a type of bovine, but unlike cows we have in the USA, these guys have a large hump between their shoulder blades. This special adaptation enables them to endure famine.

      Every guide we met emphasized the importance of zebu to their tribes, although the exact nature of this importance varied.

      In Nosy Be, Philippe told us that until recently, a man could not get married unless he could offer at least one zebu to his bride’s family in exchange. (Nowadays, money will do, as well.)

      In Toamasina, Lachaka told us that in the southwest part of Madagascar, a man must steal a zebu before he can marry. (This theft is a ritual to prove his courage, and the zebu is returned to its rightful owner afterwards.)

      Later, when Lachaka proudly told us that he owned two zebu, Larry teasingly asked if he had stolen them. Lachaka laughed and said, “No, no! Only in the southwest!”

      Zebu don’t produce much milk. They are mostly used for labor and meat. They are a part of every major event here, from weddings, births, religious rites, funerals, and holidays.

      I apologize that my zebu photos aren’t the best. As we passed them pulling carts on the roads, the windows of our rattletrap van were so cracked and dirty that photographing anything was a challenge.

      Even so, there were many intriguing sites whizzing by. Madagascar fascinates me!
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