Desert X

March 2019
Weekend in Palm Springs with Tamara and Cat to check out Desert X. Read more
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  • Day 1

    The LAB Anti-Mall

    March 2, 2019 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    We had planned to arrive in Palm Springs very early to make the most of the weekend. Unfortunately our Alaska flight got canceled and we had to get a later flight to Santa Ana and drive from there. The good thing about it is that we got to stop at the LAB Anti-Mall in Costa Mesa for lunch, a very cute spot with shops and coffee shops.

    We had lunch at Gypsy Den, a very cute coffee shop with quirky decor. My squash and avocado bowl wasn't that great though. It had more zucchini than squash, and not that much of either, and the romesco sauce was too hot. After lunch we got a donut at Good Town Doughnuts. Mine had nutella but they had a bunch of other fancier flavors.

    I wouldn't mind stopping here longer next time I'm around. There seemed to be a lot of cute stores to check out.
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  • Day 1

    Palm Springs

    March 2, 2019 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    We arrived in Palm Springs and had time to check out a couple of the Desert X art installations before going to our Airbnb.

    The first one was SPECTER, by Sterling Ruby. It's a big fluorescent orange block, bright and weird in the middle of the desert. It created a fascinating effect, like the monolith in 2001 A Space Odyssey, despite all the people taking pictures around it. It was really windy, so the experience wasn't as good as it could have been, but I still enjoyed seeing it and exploring all its angles.

    Just a few minutes away was Revolutions, by Nancy Baker Cahill, an AR experience set in the wind farms landscape that I liked less. This is what the website says:

    "The work at the northern windfarms, Revolutions, alludes to the capturing of energy to remedy a man-made crisis. But in doing so, the net effect is disruptive to the flora and fauna of the region. The artist thinks of the drawings as a call-and response of sorts."

    I feel AR tends to be disappointing and this wasn't an exception. The piece looked like colorful fireworks on the sky. Nice, but not that inspiring.

    After seeing these two pieces, we went to the Aqua Soleil Hotel to get the keys for our Airbnb. The Airbnb was a block of little apartments with a kitchen, bedroom and living room, called Chez Soleil, at 68235 Club Cir. Dr. I liked ours more than what I expected based on the website. We just rested for a bit and went to see a third installation, the screening of Dive In by Superflex. I didn't know what to expect but I liked it a lot. It was this big structure in the dark desert where images of what it looked like a pink aquarium with fish were projected. You could walk around it and the piece had a surrounding deep sound.

    We finished the night with a sushi dinner at Musashi, which was pretty good, and then went home. We were tired after the early start and went to sleep early.
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  • Day 2

    Salton Sea

    March 3, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We woke up very early and went for breakfast to The Cottage Too, a traditional diner with a quirky decoration. I got a ham and cheese omelet, which was good except for the American cheese (who uses American cheese and why?)

    After breakfast we head back to the Airbnb because I needed a shower - I had got up just in time for breakfast!

    We headed to the Salton Sea, where we wanted to see the first installation of our day: Terminal Lake Exploration Platform (TLEP), by artist Steve Badgett and architect Chris Taylor. The problem with a floating laboratory going around a huge lake and researching its ecosystem is that, well, you're unlikely to see it unless it happens to be right in front of you when you show up there. And that's what happened.

    In any case, the Salton Sea is a pretty interesting place with or without artworks. It was created at the beginning of the XX century when failed irrigation canals diverted the Colorado River into the basin. It took engineers more than half a year before they diverted the river again, and by then the lake had grown to its current size. It's not that the environmental implications were known right away. First, it became a fishery and later, in the 50s, it turned into a tourist spot with resorts and activities that attracted people like the Beach Boys. It also served as a repository of military testing at some point.

    The salinity and the agricultural runoff, among other factors, destroyed the ecosystem, and the water got polluted. Many of the animal species died and the resorts were abandoned. The water is slowly turning into a salty dust bowl and the area, mostly empty, carries a weird smell from the dead fish.

    From the Desert X website: "The artists read the Salton basin as reflector of present ecological and political conditions—at once dire, present and ignored. The TLEP invites us to look more closely at our environment and its problems through the fascinating lens of the Salton Sea’s history."

    On the same spot, on the beach, was the next piece we wanted to see: Margin of error, by Nancy Baker Cahill, an AR digital work that we good see through the phones. I liked it way more than the one we had seen the previous day. We spent a very long time there, also chatting with a couple who was visiting the exhibition, but it felt quite hot and after a while, I had to go to drink water and move to the shade. Note: don't forget to drink your water when you go to the desert.

    Our next stop was Cecilia Bengolea's Mosquito Net, also at the Salton Sea. This one was quite disappointing, featuring a cartoonish flat sculpture with dancers and mutant animals, but the installation was only half of the piece, according to the website:

    "Bengolea’s performance piece, Mosquito Net, is not a quest for the universal beauty of nature, but a display of social street dance to invoke the spirit of animals and nature. This piece is a consideration of how humans and animals observe each other, including both real and imaginary animal. Bengolea also includes actual dance poses from her established performances, where she and dancers from Jamaica express animals they feel connected to."

    Really close was "Halter", by Eric N. Mack, a textile piece at an abandoned gas station.. This is a description from the Desert X website:

    "Using the site of a defunct gas station at the edge of the Salton Sea, artist Eric Mack employs his distinctive language of material as gesture to create a living architecture. Silks and tulles have been stretched with rope tensioned to form a line in space, or to reframe the building’s relationship to itself and its surroundings."

    This installation wasn't that interesting and I enjoyed the surroundings better. Next to the gas station stood an abandoned store, somehow showing that you don't really need fabric to make these places look fascinating. On the other side of the road someone had sprayed "Send nudes" on a sign.
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  • Day 2

    Pieces in Mecca & Indio

    March 3, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    After the Salton Sea installations we headed to the desert. Our next stop was in Mecca, not too far from the previous one, but it took us some time to find the right way. In fact, one of the things we learned is that it's good to plan in advance and figure out exactly how toileting get to the pieces, because the Google Maps map on the site was not too accurate when giving directions.

    "A Point of View", a sculpture by artist Iván Argote, consisted of several blocks of stairs with no destination and inscriptions in both English and Spanish. I was not impressed by the messages themselves, but I did enjoy the effect of the structures as they stood there in the middle of nowhere.

    Before heading to lunch we made a stop at the Oasis Date Gardens. It's a dates farm with a big selection of dates and a small and quirky store with date products. It also has a little coffee shop where we had a delicious shake that was too big even when we split it between the three of us.

    We had lunch in Indio at a place called Heirloom Craft Kitchen. I had a delicious flatbread but there were a lot of options that sounded good, including some vegetarian ones.

    We stopped quickly in Coachella to check out one of the pieces by Cinthia Marcelle, called Wormhole. She set TV monitors in empty store windows, showing the facade of another shop. The idea was good, but we didn't love it and we didn't spend much time there either.

    Next we visited a piece called "Recapturing Memories of the Black Ark" by Gary Simmons. Its was an installation as well as a platform for music performances inspired by Lee "Scratch" Perry's Jamaican studio, Black Ark.

    It consisted of a series of speakers hand-built from vintage parts and wood scavenged from post-Katrina New Orleans and a screen with video documentation of the musicians’ performances.

    One of the coolest things about Desert X is how it takes you to places to see the artworks, but in the process you discover fascinating locations. This building, at 43143 Jackson St. in Indio was the California National Guard. Google tells me it hosts the organizations Veterans of Foreign Wars and Army Cadets of Indio. I have no clue what goes on there these days, but when we visited it we found a big, mostly empty space full of covered in motivational words.

    The next piece we saw was "Visit us in the shape of clouds" by Armando Lerma, one of my favorites at Desert X. It was a mural that featured various images from the American Southwest and beyond such as snakes, birds, parrots, fish, monkeys, seashells, plants, flowers, and rock art. "He selected these images to illustrate a story of migration and the transitory," says the website.

    It was painted on a deposit and I took a couple of pictures getting my hands through the fence. I loved the setup and the magic of seeing such a beautiful artwork in such an inaccessible place.
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  • Day 2

    Melissa Morgan Fine Art

    March 3, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We made a quick stop at Melissa Morgan Fine Art in Palm Desert, one of the so-called "Desert X Hubs." They had some information about Desert X and a couple of cool exhibits. It also featured this text by writer and curator Neville Wakefield that I liked and that I took a photo of, because it resonated so much with what we were experiencing during the weekend, "a refraction of much that we look for and some that we find within the diverse landscape of the Coachella Valley." .

    "It would be a mistake to think that there is nothing here."

    Well, exactly. I would have got a t-shirt with that sentence. Maybe.
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  • Day 2

    Sunset

    March 3, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Sunset was approaching and we didn't have much time anymore.

    We really wanted to see "Lover's rainbow", by Mexican artist Pia Camil. It was an identical set of two rainbows set at the border, one in Baja (Mexico) and the other one in the Coachella Valley, in the US. We only visited this side, obviously.

    This was fun and playful. You wouldn't be able to tell from far but the installation was made of rebar. This is what the website said:

    "Exposed rebar usually signals development, but too often in the Mexican landscape we see those dreams thwarted and abandoned. Historically, rainbows have symbolized rain and fertility. Located in desert territory, the act of bending the rebar into the ground is a way to re-insert hope into the land."

    After visiting the rainbow we went to Palm Springs and looked for Mary Kelly's installation "Peace is the Only Shelter," a set of fake bus stops that evoked Cold War antinuclear activism and its significance amid today's tensions worldwide. It had several bits of information on it and I really liked it.

    We run out of time and the last piece we got to see was Western Flag (Spindletop, Texas) 2017, by John Gerrard, which depicted the site of the 'Lucas Gusher' - the world's first major oil find, in 1901, now exhausted. The site was recreated on a screen, as a digital simulation (obviously, because it wouldn't make any sense otherwise.)
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  • Day 2

    Palm Springs

    March 3, 2019 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    After the last Desert X installation we decided we were too tired and lazy to go to the party we had planned to attend at the Ace Hotel and went to have a cocktail at a tiki bar instead, Bootlegger. I love tiki bars and this place was cute and friendly. Then we headed to Trio Restaurant for dinner, where I had a delicious pasta with mushrooms.

    We were really tired afterwards and hat to wake up quite early the morning after to catch our flight, so we just went back to sleep at the Airbnb.
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  • Day 3

    What I wish I had known - Desert X

    March 4, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    - There is a lot to see and it's good to plan ahead, decide what you want to see and how you'll structure the visit, download any relevant information, and check out how to arrive to the places instead of just relying on Google Maps.
    - Do not forget to drink a lot of water and reapply sun screen. This is the desert.
    - It's best to fly to Palm Springs but the Santa Ana airport was not too far either.
    - There are tours and other side activities that may be interesting to check out.

    Highlights:
    - The installations, obviously. Some of them were better than others, but they took us to interesting places.
    - Oasis Date Gardens. There's not that much to it. but the date shake was delicious.
    - Dinner at Trio Restaurant was great.
    - I actually enjoyed the LAB Anti-Mall in Costa Mesa quite a lot. I was not part of our original plan but it was a quite cool place to check if you're around.

    Could have been better:
    - We should have checked in advance that one Salton Sea was not gonna be visible. In general, it would have been good to plan ahead even more (although Cat and Tamara had done a pretty good job.)
    - I got a headache because I didn't drink enough water.
    - Some roads were closed when we went back to the airport and we were close to missing our flight. I guess it can happen. Maybe we should have stayed closer to Palm Springs itself.
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