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Canadian Rockies
  • Martha Sleutel

Canadian Rockies

A 18-day adventure by Martha Read more
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  • Trip start
    July 21, 2024
    Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    This is 1/2 of the line, and it is 4 lines deep!

    Arriving Calgary - Good, Bad, Ugly

    July 21, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    The Good - Smooth, easy flight, arrived on time. Flew through Customs in less than 10 minutes!

    The Bad - The rental car line had at least 75 people in a long line in the warm, un-air conditioned room. (Photo doesn't show how the line snakes back and forth 4 times.) It took 2 and 1/2 hours to get a car. Yikes!

    The Ugly - This morning (0445), a confluence of events conspired to create chaos. I'd had a touchy tummy for a few days, and, of course, my GI system got rowdy just as our Uber driver arrived 15 minutes early! Despite early morning darkness, rain, and being rushed, I congratulated myself on having everything totally packed and organized the night before, and being perfectly on time to the airport. At our gate, I realized I'd left my tablet plugged in at my bedside at home! 😭

    Allow me to whine. Aghhh! I had books loaded to read and I need the bigger screen to edit photos. Now, instead of a keyboard, I am pecking letter by letter at a snail's pace! (A 1st world problem, I know!)

    The good news is we'll be in scenic mountains tomorrow!    Read more

  • Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    Bridge at Fenland Trail, crossing Forty Mile Creek
    Forty Mile Creek with mountain reflectionAnother view of the creek from the trailWild asters along the creekCharlie at our picnic lunch along the creekView of mountains from Marsh Loop TrailBow River along our trailKayakers on Bow RiverBanff Springs Hotel, now the Fairmont2Bow River Falls

    Banff Day 1

    July 22, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    Easy, quick drive to Banff, but we arrived WAY too early to check into our condo. Banff has a ski/tourist/mountain town vibe with lots of restaurants, shops, and LOTS of traffic. (And pedestrians and cyclists!)

    Charlie had a list of easy hikes for us, so we started on his list! The first one, Fenland trail, wound through forests and along the lovely 40 Mile Creek. Afterwards, picnic tables next to the stream beckoned, so we ate lunch there.

    The next hike, Marsh Lake, was a 2 mile loop along hot springs, forests, and the very green (glacial) Bow River. Unfortunately, much of the trail was also used by horses 😮‍💨 🐎 We trudged around piles of manure and endured voracious mosquitoes. Delightful 60-70 degrees this morning morphed into 90 + degrees in the afternoon. Our very next stop was to buy bug spray!

    Still killing time before check-in, we went to the historic Banff Springs Hotel (looks like a massive castle). Originally built by a railroad magnate in the 1880s, it was rebuilt in the 1920s and renovated in 2001.

    Now, we are in our wonderful condo! Time to relax!    Read more

  • Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    View of Lake Minnewanka from trail
    Charlie climbed up this rocky promontoryDrift logs and Charlie next to the lakeCascade River just before it enters the lakeView of river from cliffside trailRiver view from trail near the trail's end.End of trail. Charlie is below at the river's edgeView next to the riverLots of cascadesMe on the rocky river bank

    Banff, Day 2 - Part 1 (Hike #1)

    July 23, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Starting our first hike at 8 am, we had the trail to ourselves. We initially skirted the forested bank of Lake Minnewanka. The weather and views were glorious. After crossing a bridge, the now cliffside trail meandered through forests high above the Cascade River. At the end, the trail descended to the river, allowing us to explore the rocky bank.

    On our return, as we neared the lake where we started, we saw throngs of people, just headed out. And busses arriving to the parking lot! Glad we were leaving!    Read more

  • Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    Mount Rundle looms over kayakers on Lake Johnson.
    Drift logsKayakers on Johnson Lake with very smoky skies2Mountain and lake view with submerged logsIndian paintbrush and a kayaker near the bankLook closely! A dog in the kayak while the owner swims

    Banff, Day 2, Part 2 (Hike # 2)

    July 23, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    After a picnic lunch on the bank of Johnson Lake, we began the loop trail around the lake. Crowds of people were sunbathing and swimming at the beach area near the parking lot. Fortunately, few were on the loop trail around the lake. See pics below.

    Background - Our condo is part of a "resort" complex that seems a bit old and tired. (Our accommodations are perfect, tho). As part of this "resort", there is an indoor pool area with large hot tub area, kiddy pool, and 2 massive water slides (all indoors!).

    Returning from our hikes hot and tired, we thought we'd check out the pool area. NO ONE was there - yay! And, the C02 levels were very low - double yay! Bottom line, we had a refreshing fun time! What an unexpected perk!

    Noteworthy issue - Since arrival in Canada 3 days ago, we've noticed the skies are very hazy - from numerous wildfires West of us.

    Today, Jasper National Park and the town of Jasper are evacuated, with all reservations canceled until 8/6. BUMMER! We have reservations 7/28 -7/31. Charlie, the trip organizer, is scrambling to sort out alternatives!    Read more

  • Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    Charlie on the trail, surrounded by a blanket of yellow flowers
    At the mountain overlook. Top of the trail, but a steep tricky descent after this.Rocky cliff with mossA meadow of fireweed at the bottomView of Rock Isle Lake, Laryx Lake, Grizzly Lake and mountainsR.I. Lake and Grizzly LakeAnother view of R.I. LakeRock Isle Lake, carved by glaciersCharlie and me on the trailThese were like hot pink/red Indian PaintbrushesViewpoint narrated by New Zealander!

    Banff, Day 3

    July 24, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    For our last day in the Banff area, we embarked on Upper Stony Mountain Trail, a 2.7 mile loop up and up and up through lovely forests to a view of Cascade Mountain and the Bow Valley. This one did me in! (I don't deal well with a 1000 foot elevation gain and a 20-30% grade). So done. But it was only 1100!

    Next on Charlie's list was
    Sunshine Village, a ski area with gondolas and chair lifts up to alpine lakes and meadows. What a pleasant surprise! And my kinda hiking (riding uphill)!

    We took a long gondola up to the village, then a chair lift higher up, so we could stroll downhill back to the gondola and back down. 😀 Perfect! But, no one told us there was this "little" uphill section (a mile or so) where we crossed the continental divide at 7,200 feet. (Charlie commented that we hiked from Alberta to British Columbia and back by crossing the Continental Divide 🤣🤣🤣)!

    Regardless of my feet protesting, the alpine views were stunning. The photos and video are from The Rock Isle Lake viewpoint, and around part of the lake. For the video, a park worker from New Zealand narrated the view. I could have stayed here all day and come back for more.    Read more

  • Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    Smoky view of Banff
    Banff cave and hot springsBanff cave and hot springsMany small pools of hot springsOriginal exterior entrance to cave and hot springsAnother, shallower hot springs poolThe huge pool area, now covered, with the Bow River and mountains in the backgroundHot springs marsh with wildflowers2Scary (to me) part of trail to falls12View from road outside Lake Louise

    Leaving Banff, Arriving Lake Louise

    July 25, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    This morning, wildfire smoke hung in the air over Banff - first time we have smelled smoke, and strongly.

    Before leaving, we stopped at Banff Cave and Basin Historic site. At one time there was a hotel, bath house, and large swimming pool (thermal mineral water, now covered). The area smells strongly of sulfur, and the hot mineral water seeps from the entire hillside, making pools, marshes, and streams. There are several holes in the ground/caves with mineral pools. The photos show the biggest one, and the one that we could enter. The signs say the hot mineral water is (slightly) radioactive, and people drank it for their health!

    Enroute to Lake Louise, the sky became even smokier, then it began to rain. The rain slowed to a drizzle, then stopped, allowing us to hike the trail to Silverton Waterfall (up, up, and up). Part of the trail was perilous, just 12-18" wide with a steep slope. I was happy to be past that point!    Read more

  • Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    Moraine Lake with glacier on mountains
    Glacial stream into Moraine LakeLake Louise with glacier-covered mountainsUs at Lake LouiseCanoes on Lake Louise (lots of glaciers)Canoes at Lake Louise, fireweed in foregroundCanoes at far end of Lake LouiseGlacial stream inlet and beachGlacial stream from mountainGolden mantled ground squirrel

    Moraine Lake & Lake Louise

    July 26, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 37 °F

    Moraine Lake and Lake Louise (the Lake, not the city) are top destinations within the national park. Shuttles to both lakes are by advance reservation. Our reservation was for 07-08.

    When we packed for this trip, 14-day weather forecasts showed highs of 70-95. As a result, I did not pack a coat. The forecast was correct until today. As we waited for the shuttle, it was 40 degrees, windy, and drizzly. I wore many layers, and my raincoat, and stayed cold most of the day. Thankfully, the drizzle stopped and the temp "soared" to 51 by mid-day.

    We hiked along Moraine Lake first, and quickly returned to take refuge in a warm shuttle to Lake Louise. We strolled along that lake to the end, and continued up the forested canyon. We saw signs for the Plain of 5 Glaciers, and decided to keep on to see what views we might see (we knew we weren't going to the end - 9 miles). We stopped where we could see 3 glaciers and that was far enough.

    Side note: At the stream end of the lake, as I was taking a lake picture, I felt something crawling up my pant leg. I squawked and jumped, disturbing a ground squirrel that was wanting me to feed him!    Read more

  • Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    Bow Lake with glacier
    2Another view of Bow Lake with glacierCharlie at Bow Lake. Glaciers in mountainsPeyto Lake - actual color (not altered)Peyto Glacier in mountains, Peyto River flowing into lakeWaterfowl Lake with ReflectionMistaya River plunges into narrow canyonMistaya River, from Peyto Glacier and RiverNorth Saskatchewan RiverWild Columbine

    Icefields Parkway

    July 27, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Today started like yesterday - drizzly and cold. We had a leisurely, unscheduled day to just drive up the highway toward the road closure due to fires at Jasper (45 miles). The rain stopped and the skies cleared by afternoon - yay!

    This road is (aptly) called Icefields Parkway due to the many glaciers on the towering mountains.

    We stopped at several glacier lakes, some the color of pool water. Glacial silt refracting light causes the almost unnatural blue-green color.

    This area reminds me of Alaska - weather, glaciers, mountains - but also how wild and remote this wilderness is. Outside of our tiny town, there are no stores, restaurants, gas stations, or CP service.    Read more

  • Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    Takakkaw Falls
    Takakkaw Falls and riverCharlie on a rock at the riverConfluence of 2 rivers - one brownish (Yoho), and one whiter (Kicking Horse)Charlie on a rock at the confluence2Kicking Horse River merging with Yoho River2Ross LakeRoss LakeShasta Daisy amidst feathery-looking flowersAster and Indian Paintbrush beside the trail

    Yoho National Park

    Jul 28–Aug 1, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Our first stop this morning was Takakkaw Falls, the 2nd tallest waterfall in Canada. After that, we explored some sights in the Yoho River Valley, including the confluence of 2 rivers, the Yoho and the Kicking Horse. You can see the color difference between them. The more rock flour from glaciers, the muddier the water looks.

    After a picnic lunch, we embarked on our last hike, to Ross Lake. I had run out of steam before we started, and considering how gorgeous previous lakes had been, this lake was "meh". Charlie said that it wasn't worth the effort to get there. At the lake, we met 3 lively teachers from CA, and really enjoyed chatting with them.    Read more

  • Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    Lake Louise
    Lake Louise, mountains, and glaciers through the treesAnother view of Lake Louise, mountains, and glaciers

    Lake Louise and Laundry

    July 29, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    We were supposed to be in Jasper today (and for 3 more days), but wildfires canceled that. We designated today a day to relax. We took the shuttle to Lake Louise again, and just strolled around. There is smoke in the air that we can smell, and views are hazy.

    Back at the hotel, we did laundry and some organizing. A steady afternoon drizzle kept us lazy. Charlie walked the trail along the river outside our hotel in the gray late afternoon mist. I was happy to skip another walk. My feet and joints were thrilled at the reprieve today!!!!    Read more

  • Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    Beginning of Rock Garden Trail through a rainforest
    Lichen and moss on rocksMe on the Rockgarden Trail in the drizzleTwo trestles in the forestThree trestles in the forest. Can you see the one on the far right?Another set of trestles glistening in the rainTrestles crossing riverAn avalanche knocked over this trestle (and presumably the tracks)Confluence of Asulkan Brook and Illecillewaet RiverMe and Charlie next to the two riversConfluence

    Glacier Nat'l Park (not the U.S. one!)

    July 30, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Today's drive was from Lake Louise to the mountain town of Revelstoke (traversing Canada's Glacier NP). The town was named after a British bank investor in the Canada Pacific Railway.

    Fun fact! Driving West, we crossed the Continental Divide and rivers now drain to the Pacific and not East to the Hudson Bay!

    We stopped at several trails despite a gray drizzly day. The Loop Brook Trail is historic, where the forest has overtaken the 1800s train trestles. Ar this spot, the Canadian Pacific Railway had a figure 8 pattern to climb Rogers Pass and you can see those trestles.

    Another historic area was the Illecillewaet Valley - (Sinixt word means "Big Water"), home of one of the earliest Canadian mountain resorts. From 1880-1925, mountaineers and tourists flocked here, brought by the railroad. The resort closed as the glacier receded and after repeated avalanches prompted the railroad change their route.

    Arriving at Revelstoke, we explored the quaint town and enjoyed gelato!    Read more

  • Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    Pretty little Lake on trail
    Wider view of lakeView from top of Upper Summit TrailRed Indian Paintbrush (?) flowers along trailMountains at Rogers Pass approaching Golden

    Mount Revelstoke Nat'l Park and Golden

    July 31, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Another Canadian National Park! The weather was perfect as we strolled along Upper Summit Trail. Neither of us has much energy, so we headed on to our next stop, the town of Golden.

  • Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    I'm not a Novid anymore 😷😥

    Covid

    July 31, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Well, we got complacent. We think we were exposed either on the Lake Louise shuttle (even though we were masked), or when we switched rooms at Lake Louise.

    Normally, in a new hotel room, we stay masked for 30 minutes while we open windows, turn on AC, and ventilate the room. We were familiar with the hotel and didn't do our usual routine. Or possibly, it was at the breakfast room. Normally, we take our breakfasts back to our room, but it was a separate building and removing plates or food wasn't allowed. We just weren't as careful as usual. (After 4 years of travel all over the world, covid finally got us!)

    We always bring 2 Covid tests and Paxlovid, so we both tested. Charlie is -, and I am +. Charlie wanted to re-test this afternoon, but our new (small) town of Golden has no covid tests or testing at either of the 2 pharmacies and 2 health clinics!

    I started Paxlovid this am. They are NOT joking when they say Paxlovid gives you a metallic taste! Fortunately, symptoms are mild. Fingers crossed it stays that way!    Read more

  • Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    Wapta Falls
    Bridge across stream at Emerald LakeEmerald LakeMountains reflecting in lakeKayakers and canoes in lake

    Golden

    August 1, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Yesterday morning, we strolled through forests to Wapta Falls. Neither of us feels great, so that was it for us.

    Today, right on schedule, exactly 48 hours after my first dose of Paxlovid, I feel MUCH better. YAY! (Still coughing and my voice is gone, but still better!). Charlie's symptoms were milder, and he also feels better.

    We had another easy day, driving up the road to Emerald Lake for a slow amble along the shore.    Read more

  • Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    Dense wildfire smoke obscures the tall mountains outside Golden in the Columbia River Valley
    Smoke near Radium Hot SpringsSinclair Canyon - widened by pickaxe for original one-lane road in 1911Wider view of Sinclair Canyon and road1Sinclair Creek (mosquitoes not pictured)Forest along Sinclair CreekDistant waterfall at creek

    Radium Hot Springs

    August 3, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    Wildfire smoke was hanging over Golden this morning. We explored the river walk and shops in Golden before driving to Radium Hot Springs and Kootenay National Park. We drove past distant active fires and some old burn sites, including destroyed homes. We saw a stream of helicopters carrying big buckets of flame retardant across the mountains. Skies were alternately denser, then more diffusely smoky all along the drive.

    Along the way, we saw two huge nests with immature osprey and stopped at one to watch the hatchlings. Very neat.

    Radium Hot Springs is a village and is also a nearby hot springs of 2 large pools. Radium - sounds wholesome and healthy, right? Apparently, the levels of radon from radium is harmless (so they say).

    We hiked in scenic Sinclair Canyon, encountering the most tenacious and vicious clouds of mosquitoes we have ever encountered! Despite dousing with bug spray!!! It was a really quick hike!

    Our Covid symptoms are considerably better. I've invested in Jolly Ranchers and other hard candies to try to offset the horrid Paxlovid taste. Small price to pay, tho    Read more

  • Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    Olive Lake with very smoky sky
    An area re-growing after a forest fire2Verdant Creek (great name, right?)Marble Canyon (actually limestone and not marble!)Me at Numa Falls at top of Marble CanyonNuma FallsWider view of Numa FallsMe at rock outcrop at Tokumm CreekVermilion River with fireweed

    Kootenay National Park

    August 4, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Another very smoky day as we explored more of Kootenai National Park.

  • Martha SleutelCanadian RockiesMartha Sleutel
    Famous Peace Bridge on Prince's Island
    Closer view of Peace BridgeLots of flowers on Prince's IslandMore flowers along the water

    Last day in Calgary

    August 6, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    We visited the Inglewood Bird Sanctuary, a large expanse of land along the Bow River in the city of Calgary. We browsed along trails, spotting a lot of waterfowl and an egret, among others. Very scenic.

    Yesterday, we strolled along Calgary's historic district downtown. Today, we went to Prince's Island Park, nestled next to downtown in a crook of the Bow River. We liked the many pedestrian bridges connecting downtown to the island, and connecting the island to the residential neighborhoods across the river. Another beautiful area!

    Such wonderful foresight and historic conservation of both extensive lands - the Bird Sanctuary and Prince's Island.    Read more

    Trip end
    August 7, 2024
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