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Colombia

February - March 2024
A 13-day adventure by Mary Kieran Gap Year Read more
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  • TravelerColombia
    Day 1

    Day 42: Nueva Villa de Aburrá

    February 21 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    While we were very excited for all countries in South America, we were ecstatic to visit Colombia and see amigos Pacho (Francisco) and Zady (Zagudelo).

    We met Pacho and Zady 2 years ago in a Philadelphia hostel and spent 4 hours in an ally talking about metal, swimming, and movies. Pacho is a somewhat celebrity in Medellín because he translates for famous rock bands that play in Colombia. He also has an extensive collection of rock CDs and tshirts (https://youtu.be/XvnhzL2r8Ac?si=FSJ4S8d1s1lGf6l7). His family is hosting us at their home so we were able to see the collection in person.

    Pacho and Zady didn’t disappoint the first Medellín night and took us to a delicious panadería for snacks as well as a neighborhood in Colombia where metal heads come to drink in a park surrounded by rock bars. He introduced us to his friends and we got to meet a metal band from Colombia as well.

    Restaurant: Panadería Dulce Paladar Bakery Santa Teresita

    Food:
    Arepa de chocolo con chorizo
    Buñuelos
    Empanadas de Iglesia
    Tamarindo Smoothie

    Spots:
    Nueva Villa de Aburrá    Read more

  • TravelerColombia
    Day 2

    Day 43: Downtown Medellín

    February 22 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Pacho’s family is absolutely lovely. His mother made us breakfast and lunch, and we were able to wash our clothes and hang them dry.

    We then ventured into downtown to meet up with Zady to see beautiful architecture and statues, as well as a cable care up to Tres de Noviembre.

    Once again, Pacho is famous so we ran into many friends, Colombian musicians, and bar owners downtown. Icing on the cake is that he obtained us free tickets and press passes to see the most famous band from Venezuela Los Amigos Invisibles. It was the first time Kieran and I were ever backstage for a show and got to meet artists.

    Pacho explained we were from the US and it was our first time seeing the band, and the artists were very gracious as we said hello.

    Restaurant:
    Shalom
    La Jaus

    Food:
    Papá criollas
    Super Arepa
    Ceviche de Chicarrón

    Spots:
    Plaza Botero
    Tres de Noviembre
    Teatro Pablo Tobón Uribe
    Buenos Aires Neighborhood    Read more

  • TravelerColombia
    Day 3

    Day 44: Parque Arvi

    February 23 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    We gave Pacho a break from hosting and metro’d out of the city for some hiking and nature in Park Arvi. The Colombia metro system is integrated so if you start using a bus or metro, you have 1.5 hours to take all the connections you need to get around (bus, cables, trains). We road all three to get to the park.

    We came back and Pacho had us try some Colombia ants, which is an aphrodisiac. We then headed to a brewery for more music and friendship time, meeting new folks like Claudia, Lina, and Adwin. The band was Laura Azul and she is an actress in the Colombian version of The Boys

    Restaurant:
    20 Mission Cervesaria
    Mercado del Río

    Food:
    Tigre de Leche
    Chimichurri Pollo
    Bandeja Paisa    Read more

  • TravelerColombia
    2
    Day 4

    Day 45: Comuna 13 & New Family

    February 24 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    Today we visited the beautiful Comuna 13, which is a neighborhood with graffiti, food, and street performance. Historically, Comuna 13 suffered from Narcos, military operations, guerrillas, and paramilitaries. Pablo Escobar had control of the neighborhood in the 80s. We loved it and it was such a magical resilient place.

    After we prepared for an evening out which meant 90s grunge, street food, and partying till 5am. We started in La Villa de Aburrá again for a pregame, headed to the mall for a beautiful shot of the city, and then Barnaby for amazing 90s covers. At 2am, we were bullied by the 40 year olds to keep partying at Fresh bar which was 80s and 90s retro disco.

    It was an amazing night and we are so grateful for our new friends and family.    Read more

  • TravelerColombia
    2
    Day 6

    Day 46/47: Goodbye Medellín, Hello Ocean

    February 26 in Colombia ⋅ 🌬 90 °F

    After waking up from a 4am night out, it was time to say goodbye to our lovely hosts. We bought Pacho’s mom a Swiss cheese monstera to add to her hanging plant collection.

    She made us the National dish of Colombia Bandeja Paisa from scratch and it was the best home cooked meal. We then set out on a 14 hour bus ride to Cartagena de Indias, a beautiful beach town off the Caribbean.

    We took a big nap when we arrived at 6:30, and then enjoyed the afternoon walking around Bocagrande and watching the sunset.

    Hotel: Rosary Galaxy Hotel

    Restaurant:
    Paisa Parrilla

    Food:
    Mojarra Frita
    Sopa de Pescado
    Chicharrón

    Spots:
    Cartagena Bocagrande
    Tranquillo Beach    Read more

  • TravelerColombia
    Day 7

    Day 48: Isla Grande

    February 27 in Colombia ⋅ 🌬 84 °F

    Because Cartagena is on the Caribbean Sea, we have access to beautiful white sand beaches like Grand Cayman, St. Martin, and other islands.

    However, not too many visit Colombia so the Islas del Rosario are not well known and protected as a national park. We paid $90 for boat transportation to Isla Grande and spent a wonderful day on a free public beach. In February, the winds are crazy in the afternoon so we had a wild boat ride back with waves blasting us with water. We couldn’t complain, it was beautiful and warm.

    Restaurant: La Ranchería

    Food:
    Ceviche
    Sopa Racheria
    Cazuela de Mariscos

    Spot:
    Isla Grande
    Playa Libre    Read more

  • TravelerColombia
    Day 8

    Day 49: Centro & Getsemani

    February 28 in Colombia ⋅ 🌬 81 °F

    Today we took a free walking tour to learn more about Cartagena history. Originally a successful Spanish port, it was attacked several times by the English, Portuguese, and French. Tired of the attacks, the Spanish purchased slaves from Africa and had them build a wall around the city.

    As a result, majority of the population in Cartagena is African or a mix between Spanish, Indigenous, and African. The architecture, statues, street art, and culture is reflective of this troubled past, which is a mix of beautiful Spanish style homes with statues and paintings dedicated to slaves and African heritage.

    We ended the evening eating street food and drinks from the Getsemani neighborhood which is in the process of being gentrified and converted into hostels, hotels, and Airb&b.

    Food:
    Michelada
    Limonada de Coco
    Lulo Margaritas
    Pinchas
    Arepas

    Spots:
    Centro Cartagena
    Getsemani Neighborhood    Read more

  • TravelerColombia
    Day 10

    Day 50/51: Bogotá Street Art

    March 1 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    We flew from Cartagena to Bogotá Thursday afternoon, excited for our last city in South America. Some restaurants and cafes in South America have “menus of the day” which are cheaper lunches made up of whatever food staff had on hand. We ate a fabulous early dinner, but we’re promptly locked out of our hostel room because the previous tenants threw away the keys.

    The next day, we woke up for a graffiti walking tour to see the beautiful street art downtown. Due to the Palestinian genocide, much of the artwork is dedicated to their liberation. When we didn’t see political pieces, there was much anime and cultural references.

    We ended the evening by locating a rock bar where Kieran mistakenly ordered a pitcher of beer for himself. After listening to some metal bops, we found a game bar and promptly ordered 6 more beers. We regretted it immediately and were able to pocket three of them for tomorrow.

    Hostel: Hotel San Luis

    Restaurants:
    Pollo Broaster
    Voluntad Café
    Dos Gatos Taqueria
    Kraken Rock Bar and Cafe
    Game Pub

    Food:
    Ajiaco Sopa
    Carne de Res
    Pizza

    Spots:
    Chapinero Sur Occidental
    Chapinero
    La Candelaria
    Journalists' Park Gabriel García Márquez
    Calle Del Embudo
    Sendero a Monserrate    Read more

  • TravelerColombia
    Day 11

    Day 52: Millonarios for a Day

    March 2 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Teachers are our greatest influences in life, and one high school teacher left an impression on Mary when they showed ESPN 30 for 30 fútbol documentary The Two Escobars in her geography class. This documentary not only inspired her to visit Colombia at some point, but also attend a Colombian soccer game. Another bucket list item checked off, we attended a local fútbol match between the Millonarios and La Equidad.

    We attended with a few Americans, Canadians, British, and French, and were able to pregame with beer, shots, and empanadas. Throughout the match, the crowd was singing, cheering, and yelling Puta at every opportunity against the opposing team.

    The game didn’t disappoint, and we got to see three yellow cards, two red cards, and a huge fight in the end. Mary couldn’t have been happier.

    We ended the night with some delicious soup and tacos, and watched the documentary since Kieran had never seen it.    Read more

  • TravelerColombia
    Day 12

    Day 53: Bogotá Blues

    March 3 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Today was our last full day in South America. We visited the Bogotá Museo del Oro which is dedicated to gold and metallurgy. We have never seen much gold in our life, and the mastery behind several pieces is unmatched.

    We walked through the Sunday street market and then visited Chapinero neighborhood for some final ceviche. The restaurants were all closed sadly so last meal was some incredible pizza.

    We ended the night with wine and watching Dune Part 1 on our surface to prepare for Part 2. Shai Hulud!

    Restaurant:
    #Pollos
    Brunetta Pizzería Trattoria Chapinero

    Spots:
    Museo del Oro    Read more

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