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  • Day 18

    Dying from the Heat in the Isalo NP

    November 11, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    This morning we woke up early again, to start our tour around the Isalo National Park. It's 25km wide and 180km long, which makes it the second biggest National Park in Madagascar. It has a variety of endemic plants and Insects that can only be found in the park. We left the lodge at 7am and it was already quite warm with around 25°C. Solofo told us, it would get around 35-40°C today. Not very good news for me...
    Our first challenge was the river that we had to cross with our bus. After Ninny, our driver, took a quick glance at it, he said that he can do it, and he just drove into the river. Solofo said that our weight actually helps steer the bus, as he can touch the ground with us. That's the first time, my weight actually helped someone, so I'll take it.
    We arrived at the bottom of the mountain range and were introduced to our guides. We then had to decide who wants to be in the fast group (those wouldn't get so many explanations and rather walk quickly to the stops) and who wants to join the slower group. As I know my walking abilities, Seb and I decided to join the second one. We started walking and it was clear immediately, that it would be a very tough walk, because of the heat. I enjoyed the explanations of the plants and little animals around, but I was always looking for the next shade to hide under. We learned that the Malagasy people around Isalo bury their dead with some black and white clothes and put a cloth around the. They then put them in a little cave at the lower part of the Isalo mountains and leave them there for around 2 years. After these 2 years, they get the dead people's bones out of the cave again, celebrate with them for a week and put them back up in a very high cave in the mountains so that they can become ancestors. Babys under 6 months won't be exhumed, nor would boys who haven't been circumsized yet (which usually happens between 2-5 years old, in a very brutal, old fashioned way). Women who didn't give birth during their life would be buried somewhere else as they weren't "worthy". As you can see... These believes and traditions are very much set into their culture, they still live it and they still believe in this bullsh*t. No wonder the country gets nowhere... I'm sorry to be so judgy about it, but everything regarding religion and God makes me want to scream.
    We moved on, saw some cool animals and local plants and finally arrived at the first natural pool. It was a beautiful oasis that had nearly crystal clear water and was just the right way to cool us down after all the sunny heat. We enjoyed about half and hour, until we went on for the second part of the first 7km to arrive at the campsite where we'd have lunch. This part was even harder, as it must have been way over 30 degrees by now and there was literally no shade anymore. But at least we had 400 steps to go down. Yippie!
    But we finally made it and arrived at the campsite. I was so done for the day. But there were another 5km to go to get to the black and blue pools behind the canyon. I honestly couldn't care less about it, and as Seb couldn't either, we decided to just get back to the lodge after lunch.
    The fast group came back from the black and blue pools about 10min after we arrived from the first part of the 12km hike. So they were quick!
    They told us it was quite an enjoyable walk, mostly in the shade but you'd have to go up and down lots of steps in the narrow canyon. As my knees hurt already, I just called it a day, enjoyed my lunch and the walk back to the bus.
    Back at the lodge, we chilled a bit in our bungalow, cuddled with Grey and booked ourselves a massage.
    It was only 12€ p.p. for 45min, so we said "What the heck". However, at least for me, it was horrible. My masseur was so rough and was putting so much pressure especially on my joints that I nearly cried. And I couldn't really tell her to do it differently, as she couldn't speak English. So, I endured the pain and was just very happy when it was over. Looking to my right, I saw a totally relaxed Seb sitting next to me. Well, at least someone was enjoying it.
    Afterwards, I was just in pain and tried to move as little as possible. That I can do.
    But we had the possibility to look at a very well-preserved fossil that Jacob had found in the many clay stones around. Seb and Mike were extremely happy about it, so I was happy as well. At least a good end to a stressful day.
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