• Miel Degang
  • Laura Debyser
  • Miel Degang
  • Laura Debyser

Around the Adriatic

Albania, Greece, and Italy Read more
  • Trip start
    July 22, 2025

    Housesit Leeuwarden

    Jul 22–Aug 8, 2025 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We didn't have to think long when we were invited back to this amazing place. Taking care of the 2 dogs 🐶, 5 cats 😺, and 12 chickens🐔 while making plans for the future at the swimming pool was hardly a punishment. Only a 4-hour drive away from our hometown, some friends came over for a visit.

    We also took the time to explore Friesland, strolling around beautiful Groningen, making a few coffee trips to Leeuwarden and cycling to Sneek.
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  • Vienna

    Aug 8–11, 2025 in Austria ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    As we’d never been here before and since it's right in the middle of our journey to Albania, we decided to make a stop in Vienna!

    With its rich cultural heritage and long history as a center of power in the former Holy Roman Empire, Vienna deserved more than just a quick visit. So, we spent our first three nights in Otto at a P+R spot close to the city 🚐.

    We were pretty amazed by the grandeur of the city. Beautiful old houses and palaces are literally everywhere 🏰. But because everything is so big and majestic, the city doesn’t exactly feel cosy.

    Our timing wasn’t perfect as we arrived in the middle of a heatwave 🥵. We found shelter in Vienna’s many beautiful parks and made it our mission to try an ice cream at every Veganista store in town 🍦 (and failed, but maybe that’s a good thing, considering there are ten of them).
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  • Durmitor NP

    Aug 11–16, 2025 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We visited Montenegro ten years ago (what ?! 😱), but skipped Durmitor National Park back then because of bad weather. This time, on our way to Albania, we made sure to stop to explore the area.

    We drove the famous Durmitor Ring, a thrilling 85km loop through the park where Laura had a few heart attacks squeezing past oncoming cars along the narrow, winding roads ⚠️. Faced with the choice between Bobotov Kuk (the park’s highest and most popular peak at 2523 m) and Prutaš (a strikingly shaped mountain), we decided not to choose at all and linked them together in one hike (a decision our legs loudly regretted the next day) ⛰️.

    While the area is pretty touristy, we managed to find some quieter spots (with the best views) to spend the night, although we had to flee a wildfire one evening 🔥.
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  • Peaks of The Balkan - Mini Edition

    Aug 16–20, 2025 in Albania ⋅ 🌩️ 25 °C

    The whole trail takes up to twelve days, but as we're not that eager to get fit in the Accursed Mountains, we made our own 3-day itinerary 🥾. After studying the weather forecast, we opted for guesthouses instead of wild camping.

    And it turned out we made the right choice!
    The mountains threw a storm at us every day ⛈️, and nothing beats a warm shower after getting soaked. Also, the skies usually cleared for some epic mountain views.

    We also got to know the Albanian kanun, and we're not referring to the blood feuds but the warm hospitality ❤️! The first guesthouse in Vusanje looked after Otto for 3 days, our host in Theth tried to get us drunk on free raki 🥃, and Lola spoiled us with homemade vegan food in Valbonë 🥗.
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  • Skhodër

    Aug 20–22, 2025 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    The road from Montenegro to Albania took us through Gusinje, a cute town where Miel finally got a much-needed haircut and we ended up spending hours (under the baking sun) with two stray puppies 🐕. Unfortunately, they were a bit too scared to join us on our roadtrip.

    The drive to Shkoder was stunning, with lots of switchbacks and mountain views ⤵️. We stayed at a beautiful camping by Lake Shkodër, partly for the scenery, mostly because we were in desperate need of laundry . We've actually visited the same lake 10 years ago, just on the Montenegrin side (where it’s called Lake Skadar) 🌅.

    Our visit to Shkoder wasn’t the smoothest. We made the mistake of biking over 10 km into town in 33°C heat (on some of the worst bikes imaginable 🚲), only to spend most of our time hunting for an ATM that didn’t charge a crazy fee. Relaxing at the beach by the campsite afterwards made up for it 🏖️.
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  • Lake Koman

    Aug 22–26, 2025 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Most people cross Lake Koman by ferry to reach Valbonë in the Albanian Alps. Since we've already been there, we decided to try something different: take the boat to Shala River and paddleboard back, wildcamping along the way 🛶⛺.

    Shala River used to be a hidden gem with crystal-clear waters, but that has clearly changed! Maybe it was the weather 🌧️, maybe the crowds of chain-smoking tourists playing loud music 🚬, maybe the debris of a recent storm floating around … whatever the reason, we didn't like it there.

    Finding spots to camp didn't look doable either, so we admitted defeat and took the boat back. We found a nice spot along the lake and decided to go on some day-trip adventures instead. Exploring quieter corners of the lake on the other side of the dam turned out to be the perfect alternative!
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  • Ploshtan & Korab

    Aug 26–29, 2025 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We spent three nights at The Golden Goat in Ploshtan, a guesthouse where you can cuddle and hike with goats as much as you want. Obviously, we couldn’t resist🐐! Only about 12 families live in Ploshtan, so this was also the perfect way to experience the traditional Albanian village life 👩🏼‍🌾.

    We started with a dayhike in the mountains, accompanied by 7 adult goats who clearly knew the trails better than us. As they were continuing on a multi-day hike, we circled back on our own. The next day we took a chill day to recover and to play with the 3 baby goats who stayed behind (a very energetic 5-year-old in the guesthouse made chilling slightly impossible though).

    After spotting Mount Korab (Albania’s highest peak at 2,764 m) on our goat hike, we knew we had to climb it. This time sadly without goats, but with solitude, stunning views, and a peek into Macedonia 🇲🇰.

    Big thanks to Marjan for the tip 🙏🏼!
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  • Tirana & Lake Bovilla

    Aug 29–Sep 2, 2025 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    The capital greeted us with a dramatic thunderstorm ⛈️ — the perfect excuse to go underground into Bunk’Art 1, a massive five-floor bunker built during dictator Enver Hoxha’s communist rule. Albania is packed with bunkers (we spot them everywhere!), but it was fascinating to finally step inside a big one.

    Once the skies cleared, we got to enjoy Tirana properly. Cosy cafés, leafy parks, good food and believe it or not, clean streets 🌳. We're glad we decided not to skip Tirana after all, this was a refreshing change of scenery.

    We also ventured north to Lake Bovilla, which supplies Tirana with drinking water. Fun facts we learned the hard way: 1) the road there is basically one giant pothole, and 2) that doesn’t scare off the crowds. But once the daytrippers left, we basically had the place to ourselves. To get some extra thrilling views of the lake, we went rock climbing the next morning. 🧗🏼‍♀️
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  • Berat & Osumi Canyon

    Sep 3–6, 2025 in Albania ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    They don’t call Berat the City of a Thousand Windows for nothing 🪟. Split by the Osum River, the neighborhoods Mangalem and Gorica once housed different religions but now share the same charming narrow cobbled-stone streets with cosy cafes. Overlooking both of them is Berat Castle, a 13th-century fortress-village filled with hidden Byzantine churches and Ottoman mosques.

    To cool off, we continued south to Bogovë Waterfall (not exactly a secret spot anymore, but the icy water was exactly what we needed❄️). Osumi Canyon was next: famous for rafting, though in summer it’s more about scenic views than white-water fun.

    From there, we aimed for Përmet… until locals laughed at Otto’s chances on the 4x4 road 🚐💀. So, we turned around and headed for the coast instead. Turns out we will see the Albanian beaches after all! 🏖️
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  • The Albanian Riviera

    Sep 6–10, 2025 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We cruised the entire Albanian Riviera from Vlorë to Ksamil 🚐. Google promised “turquoise waters, dramatic mountains, unspoilt beaches, and charming villages.” The first two? Spot on. The last two? Not so much. Resorts are being built everywhere, turning villages into tourist towns and it's hard to find a stretch of beach without sunbeds and loud bars 🔊.

    Still, we loved it! We found some epic spots where we could roll out of Otto and into the sea. Sometimes, it felt a bit weird stepping out of Otto in swimwear while hotel guests enjoyed their coffees a few steps away 🌊.

    We paddled around to explore more remote beaches, sea caves, and little islands, snorkeling in between (and yes, Miel insisted on climbing and cliff-jumping at every possible opportunity 🙄).

    We also visited Butrint, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of Albania’s most important archaeological treasures. It’s a mix of ruins from different civilizations: Greek amphitheater, Roman baths, and Byzantine basilicas 🏛️.
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  • Gjirokastër

    Sep 10–11, 2025 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We made a quick stop in Gjirokastër, a UNESCO World Heritage city known for its stone houses and castle views 🏰. Before exploring though, we desperately needed to reorganize the chaos in our car 🚐🧺.

    Later in the afternoon, we strolled through the old bazaar and cobbled streets full of Ottoman-style houses. We ended the day with a local dinner with a view of the mosque 🌙.

    On our way back, we heard a kitten screaming from a ditch full of trash 😿. She’d been stuck there for three days, injured and all alone. We couldn’t leave her there, so we took her to the vet the next morning and decided to keep her as our temporary travel buddy.

    She’s still very vocal (seriously, she doesn’t stop meowing 🙉), but incredibly cute. Anyone in need of a small, noisy but adorable Albanian travel cat? 🐈
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  • Përmet

    Sep 11–14, 2025 in Albania ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Our last stop in Albania: Përmet. Greece just banned wild camping this year, so we made the most of our last days of Albanian camping freedom and found Otto some beautiful spots! 🚐

    We went climbing with a view on the Vjosa river, Europe's last wild river (it flows freely without any dams or power stations) 🌊. The river is famous for rafting, but as it didn't look that impressive (summer = low water levels), we decided to look for adventure elsewhere.

    We found it at the impressive nearby Langarica Canyon! We started early to have this dramatic gorge and its thermal pools to ourselves, waded about 5 km between walls that sometimes narrowed to just 3 meters 😮, scrambled out and hiked back via the northern ridge. 🏞️

    To wrap up our one month in Albania, we went for a last local lunch in one of Permet's farm-to-table restaurants 🥗.
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  • Pindos NP

    Sep 15–19, 2025 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Pindos National Park was our first stop in Greece, but we already feel it might be one of our favourites 🇬🇷. It’s the biggest park in the country, yet hardly on anyone's radar.

    We explored the Zagori Region, famous for its old stone villages once connected only by mountain paths and bridges. Now they’re linked by roads too, so we got creative: one driving, the other hiking (Laura 🚶‍♀️) or trail running (Miel 🏃‍♂️).

    We also walked a part of the Vikos Gorge. This canyon holds the Guinness World Record as the world's deepest gorge relative to its width (😂). It is carved by the Voidomatis River, but there was no water to be seen 💦.

    Unfortunately, we didn't see any of the park's predators (bears, wolves, lynx, wildcats), except for a sneaky fox that stole Laura’s Birkenstocks right from under our car at night🦊.
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  • Meteora

    Sep 19–23, 2025 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We thought Pindos would be hard to top, but Meteora easily joined our Greece highlights list 😍. It's quite touristy, but standing beneath those towering stone pillars with monasteries perched on top is simply jaw-dropping.

    A bit of history: hermits came here in the 11th century, and monks followed in the 14th century. They built high-up monasteries looking for contemplation, isolation and refuge from Ottoman attacks. Back then, the only way up was by ladder or being hoisted in a giant net🪢😨.

    Out of the 24 monasteries once built, only 6 remain active, and we spent two days hiking between them 🥾.

    Meteora is also a climbing hotspot! The rock towers are made of sandstone and conglomerate, ancient river sediments from a time when this whole area was underwater 🌊. Quite scary to climb!
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  • Delphi

    Sep 23–25, 2025 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    In ancient times, this place was considered the 'Navel of the Earth'. Legend says Zeus sent out two eagles to find the world’s center, and they met right here 🦅🌍.

    A little bit of history (again 🤓): Delphi was one of the most important sanctuaries in Greece. The Temple of Apollo stood at its heart, where the famous Pythia delivered cryptic oracles. Leaders from Athens to Sparta came here to ask for guidance before making big decisions: whether to start a war, build a colony, or plant crops🌾. Delphi also hosted the Pythian Games, the second most important games in ancient Greece🏃.

    Delphi’s setting is just as stunning as its history! Mountains behind, the sea in the distance, and endless olive trees 🌿⛰️🌊. After visiting the archeological site and the musuem, we enjoyed this view from a cozy taverna 🍠.

    On our way to the Peloponnese (and the farm where we’ll be volunteering), we made a quick stop at the charming fishing village Galaxeidi.
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  • Eumelia - WWOOF

    Sep 26–Oct 16, 2025 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We just spent three weeks volunteering at Eumelia, an organic agrotourism farm in the south of the Peloponnese 🇬🇷. The place is surrounded by endless olive trees for their fancy olive oil production and has a huge vegetable garden where they grow almost everything they serve for breakfast and dinner 🫒🍅.

    Our main tasks were getting the vegetable garden ready for winter planting, helping out in the kitchen, and assisting with the olive oil tastings and cooking classes. It was the perfect mix of work, learning new things, and delicious rewards (although we ate enough yemista to last us a lifetime) 👩‍🌾.

    It was surprisingly hard to leave. We really got along with Marilena and Frangiskos, who involved us in everything: from wine and olive oil tastings to Greek music nights and even a chakra dance session 🎶💃.

    We’ll miss them, the animals (Sumi made plenty of new friends), our cozy trailer with the best views, and our lovely fellow volunteer from France. Eumelia truly felt like home 💛.
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  • Eumelia - Day Trips

    Sep 26–Oct 16, 2025 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    During our stay at the farm, we squeezed in a few day trips 🚗. We visited the charming port town Gythio and went snorkeling twice; once around a shipwreck at a nearby beach, and once at the underwater ruins of a prehistoric city named Pavlopetri 🤿.

    We also joined Marilena for the farmers’ market in Sparti and explored the city. There’s not much left of ancient Sparta, and the modern one is not exactly picturesque. But it did inspire us to rewatch "300" that evening🎬. Madness?!

    On Miel’s birthday, we visited Monemvasia, a medieval fortress town hidden behind a huge rock off the coast 🏰. Once an important Byzantine trading port, it’s now a maze of stone alleys and cute cafés with sea views! Perfect place for a birthday cocktail🍹🎉.
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  • Housesit Crete

    Oct 15–29, 2025 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    After spending two weeks in Crete, we leave with mixed feelings 🤔. Even in the off-season, it was surprisingly busy, and the cruise-ship crowds made it feel different from what we’re used to. During our 3-day road trip before the housesit, we realized that many of the cultural sites are too crowded, and a lot of the offbeat nature highlights require a 4x4 to reach.

    Our housesit didn’t exactly live up to our previous experiences either. It was quite dirty and the facilities were basic (the 'kitchen' was basically a double burner with one pot, one pan and a few hairy kitchen utensils). Or maybe we've just been lucky in the past 😅.

    That said, Crete isn’t without its charms! We explored hidden gorges 🌄, pitch black caves 🦇, picturesque mountain villages ⛪ and quiet coves 🏖️ and Miel climbed a mountain to get a glimpse of Lefka Ori's lunar landscape ⛰️. Plus, our house’s location near Chania was perfect for coffee shop hopping and trying out vegan restaurants ☕ 🍴!
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  • Mani

    Oct 29–Nov 2, 2025 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    The Mani Peninsula is a wild, mountainous region in the south of the Peloponnese ⛰️. Its people have always been known for their independence: Mani was the only part of Greece never fully conquered by the Ottomans and later played a crucial role in the Greek War of Independence 🇬🇷.

    You can clearly feel that history of resistance while driving around. Villages are dotted with stone tower houses, once built as defensive structures. Many are abandoned now, but their silhouettes against the rugged hills are still beautiful 🏰.

    At the very tip of Mani lies Cape Tenaro, the southernmost point of mainland Europe and famous in Greek mythology as the gateway to the underworld.

    Sadly, we couldn’t explore as much of the peninsula as we’d hoped. Laura came down with a bad case of food poisoning so we swapped Otto for a cozy seaside apartment to recover in 🤒.
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  • Eumelia part 2

    Nov 1–6, 2025 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    A second stop at Eumelia! 🌿 We returned to help with the olive harvest, but unfortunately the picking hadn’t started yet as the crew was still busy at another farm.

    We might have missed the experience of the olive harvest, but we were very happy with another one: Marilena and Frangiskos let us stay in one of the lovely, cosy guesthouses. We enjoyed it to the fullest!

    We filled our days caring for the animals, helping in the kitchen, and planting the winter veggies in the garden 🐓🥕.

    Eumelia really is a special place and we hope to be back someday 💚!
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  • Leonidio

    Nov 7–8, 2025 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Leonidio lies tucked between the sea and the end of a dramatic red-walled gorge 🌊🏔️. With over 1,000 climbing routes, it’s a true paradise for climbers, so of course, Miel couldn’t just drive past this spot! 🧗‍♂️

    While he teamed up with someone climbing on (and above) his level, Laura set out on her own kind of challenge: sampling something from every cozy café in Leonidio’s charming old town ☕😄.
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  • Athens

    Nov 8–11, 2025 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We spent two days exploring Athens, mostly wandering through its different neighbourhoods, sipping coffees and trying vegan versions of classic Greek dishes ☕🥙. We even made some ourselves during a vegan cooking class. That’s where we met with Maarten and Laura, who we’ll now be travelling with, yippee! 🎉

    Of course, we couldn’t skip the Acropolis. Even though we just missed the one month when the Parthenon was scaffold-free, it was still very impressive 🏛️.

    Getting out of Athens came with some drama when Otto didn’t want to start, but luckily a fresh battery brought him back to life 🚐🔋.
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  • Evia

    Nov 11–16, 2025 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    First stop on our roadtrip with Maarten and Laura: the relatively unknown island of Evia! It’s the second largest Greek island after Crete, and many Athenians escape here for weekends because it’s connected to the mainland by a bridge 🌉.

    We started in the south, hoping to explore a canyon, but the fog had other plans and turned it into a mystical autumn walk 🍁.
    Driving up north felt like entering a different country: olive trees disappeared and lush green forests took over 🌲.

    We stayed in beautiful houses with sea views, had sunny breakfasts every morning and played a LOT of games 🎲.
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  • Corinth

    Nov 18–20, 2025 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The first day we did some offbeat exploring in the area. We first visited the archaeological Site of Heraion, a sanctuary dedicated to the goddess Hera where the ruins lie right next to the sea 🌊🏛️. A nearby lighthouse treated us to gorgeous views over the Gulf of Corinth, and we even spotted dolphins from our picnic spot 🐬! In the afternoon, the nearby Cave of the Seals proved the perfect place for some water fun.

    The next day: Ancient Corinth. It once was a powerful Greek city, famous for its strategic location between two seas and its busy trading ports. Later, it became an important Roman city. Unfortunately it was closed when we arrived, but we still enjoyed the view from an overlooking terrace and admired the Acrocorinth towering above the site 🏰 .
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