August - October 2017
  • Day30

    Pontedeume

    September 27, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Tough walk today from Ferrol to Pontedeume. There was a fair amount of climbing during the last part of the day and absolutely beautiful views but the most difficult part for me is how depressed I get on the walk from Ferrol to Neda. There is a lot of car traffic, then walking along the military base, then the industrial area, and finally the very smelly and garbage strewn area of the bay. But for some reason it seems much more than that. It just sucks the life out of me. I had the same reaction when I did it before and this is the only route I have walked twice. Fortunately Pontedeume has the opposite effect and I had a nice place to stay and WIFI so I could write this update. I had dinner with a Chemist (Dr Christian Richard's) from the UK who has lived and worked here for 15 years and shared the history of the region. I also had a wonderful fish dinner with a huge appetizer of cheeses, salami, cured ham, and churizo. I could only eat one of the two large fish filets and the total with tax was $9!Read more

  • Day29

    A Coruña

    September 26, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Took the bus to A Coruña this morning. It is a beautiful city and Port with a long history. I enjoyed walking on the path around the city and the Old City and port as well. It was nice to walk without a backpack for a change too.

  • Day27

    Santiago hospitality

    September 24, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Rainy day today in Santiago de Compostela. Johnnie Walker invited us to noon Mass at St. Agustín where he plays organ and Steve sings. He took us all out for breakfast afterwards. Johnnie, Steve, Sybille, Alex, Dave, myself, and Sister Kathleen from Cork who worked in the Pilgrim Office with Dave and whom I met after walking the Camino Francès in 2015. At 2:00 Alex, Dave and myself explored town and had some wonderful tapas at O Bispo while the rest of the group went to a Camino de Santiago meeting. My back has felt quite a bit better today. Tomorrow I will decide whether to continue walking or rest another day.Read more

  • Day27

    Santiago de Compostela

    September 24, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Pretty good day walking until I took a break as we were entering town. My back was a little sore and I stretched it out and heard it pop. I walked the hills into Santiago with no problem and sat down at Pilgrim House welcome center and a little while later I could hardly stand due to the pain in my lower back. I am so thankful I made it to Santiago with no problems. It felt a little better after some Ibuprofen and I slept well. It feels quite a bit better now. I found Sybille at an outdoor Cafe with Alex Walker from Norway whom I have talked with quite a few times over the last couple of years but had never met in person. Sybille called Johnnie Walker who has written a few books about the Camino and somehow manages the local Camino Association. Soon there were 8 of us from the Camino forum sitting together drinking coffee. What a great afternoon and end to walking the Portuguese and Sanabres Caminos.Read more

  • Day25

    Outeiro

    September 22, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Pretty long day today with some steep downhill then sharply uphill at the end. The albergue is 3 miles from any food or services and has no internet but it is warm outside and dry inside with showers. Tomorrow we will reach Santiago.

  • Day24

    Bandiera

    September 21, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Today was not particularly tough but after yesterday it sure felt tough and a couple of miles longer than the guide suggested. I had a nice conversation in Spanish with an older couple. They had walked quite a few different Caminos and wanted to know which ones we had walked, where we started, etc. The weather was mild and misty but it did not start raining until about 1/2 hour after we arrived which was a blessing. Dave feels better today too. I startled an Iberian Boar this morning and he squealed and grunted and ran a short distance. Seems he was content to eat acorns and grunt at me. I could see both tusks and they were not more than a few inches so maybe he was young. He sure looked well fed and I did not want to be part of his diet. Dave was a ways behind me so didn't see him. There were some beautiful Roman Bridges today too.Read more

  • Day24

    A Laxe

    September 21, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    Dave was sick last night and today so he could not walk. He thinks it was something he ate but who knows for sure. I got a late start then covered the first 10 miles in just over two hours. After waiting for Dave for a half hour without internet I walked the remaining 5 miles to the albergue where I still did not have internet. Internet is our only way of communicating. I finally found a place about a half hour away that had internet and got a message from Dave that he was still waiting for a taxi. By the time I messaged him back he was in the cab and had no internet. Finally about two hours later he found me. I knew he would get the message as soon as he had internet so I did not leave so he could contact me. He expects to walk tomorrow so we will see how it goes in the morning. It is a little shorter distance but I know there is a 70% chance of rain tomorrow. Lots of climbs today but pretty trails so it was nice and there was not any fog.Read more

  • Day22

    Camino Sanabres

    September 19, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Just to clarify things. After O Porriño Spain I left the Camino Portugues Central route and took the train to Ourense Spain to walk the Camino Sanabres. I walked the Portuguese Coastal Camino last year and it joins the central route at Redondela which is just above O Porriño so I have already walked into Santiago de Compostela from there.Read more

  • Day22

    Castro Dozón

    September 19, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    I am definitely back in Galicia. Cold foggy morning,still very foggy at noon then about 1:00 no fog and immediately very warm. Quite a few towns of 100 people or less today. Typical Albergue for this region with large stark rooms with many bunk beds and communal showers where you have to hold the button in for water to flow and it never really gets warm enough to make it enjoyable. There is the typical laundry tub for washing by hand then hang dry. I was showered and had laundry hanging by 3:30 so if the weather holds out it should be dry by bedtime. Still it is home and for 6 euros a night is a great value. They even have kitchens and sitting areas but no heat or blankets. You normally have to call the hospitalera in this region to have them come unlock the door and they come by around 6pm to collect your money and check your credential to see if you are really a Pilgrim and allowed to use the albergue. Fortunately it was open when we got here today as we have no phone service nor do we speak Gallegos. (Many of the people in Galicia speak Spanish as a second language)Read more

  • Day21

    Ourense to Cea

    September 18, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    It is good to be back in Galicia! Portugal is wonderful but I am tired of walking on cobblestones and the albergues are full. We took the train to Ourense this morning and started walking to Santiago. Light rain today but everything is pretty and green with soft trails and lots of shade. So far only 4 of us in the albergue and we only saw two other people on the trail. No internet again tonight.Read more