Our African Adventure

February - March 2022
Follow us as we embark on our most exciting adventure yet, driving and free camping through the African deserts and game reserves Read more
  • 27footprints
  • 3countries
  • 26days
  • 252photos
  • 10videos
  • 15.2kmiles
  • 11.2kmiles
  • Day 9

    The Thin Black Line Of The Kalahari

    March 3, 2022 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Waking up at 6am, while the kettle boiled I checked the camera traps. Unfortunately, even though they were pointed at the entrails of a wilderbeast there were no leopards or hyena, but I did manage to catch a giant bat and I’d also have to settle for filming a dung beetle. Which was quite fascinating.
    Val had promised us a flight in his 2 seater plane if the weather was good and not long after finishing our breakfast he came and got us to see if we were up for a flight.
    Of course we were, and on the way to the airstrip he showed us the porcupine den which was massive.
    At the small hanger we filled the little plane with fuel, Val done the flight checks and we picked a flight order. Ellie was first, and after a quick safety briefing we pushed the plane out out of the hanger, Ellie climbed in, Val started the engine and off they went. A 30 minute flight over the Kalahari.
    When they came back Ellie said she had cried because she was so happy and obviously this was a once in a lifetime experience.
    I was next and as soon as we left the runway Val said he wanted some altitude and he pulled the nose up straight away and as he did he did a hard bank to the right and all you could see in every direction is desert. No houses, No people lots of trees and bushes and desert to fill the gaps. As we climbed higher a black horizon line appeared which were the trees and bushes merging in to a blur in the distance. It was very much like the thin blue line of oxygen you see from spacecraft photos between earth and space, only this was the thin black line of the Kalahari.
    Becky went next, followed by Hilda and we all thoroughly enjoyed the flight, back on the ground we were all grinning from ear to ear and it was only 11 o clock in the morning.
    Back at the ranch we all sat and played with Caramel, the blind Caracol for a little while to wear her out, it was truly a privilege to be so close and cuddle a wild animal and then we just chilled around the camp for a while and Val told us how he came to be in South Africa.
    Val is German, and Sarah is Danish and they both met each other in South Africa while doing volunteer work with conservation and animals at various camps. Val’s original work started out with an animal resetting program and flew helicopters for a South African without a license until he ended up committing suicide, which then left Val Jobless until he was called upon to sort out a lion problem at a camp somewhere up north. Basically it turned out the lions were over breeding because males and females were in enclosures together so Val sorted out a sterilisation program and manage to rehome 16 of the lions in various facilities but somehow he ended up rescuing a small cub called Sergi and then started his own conservation camp which he was forced to close because he was a foreigner, so someone donated him 7000 hectares in Botswana and now he’s setup the Medisa Foundation.
    After him telling us this we went to see Sergi the lion who has a huge enclosure of 2000 hectares and his bond with is unbelievable, he not only plays with her, he walks her for 8 hours a day twice a week and even hunts with her so she can take down a wilderbeast and he has to make the kill because she was never taught how to kill from the pride. Sergi is very possessive over Val, and barely tolerates Sarah unless Sarah has food.
    After seeing Sergi, all of the girls took Caramel the Caracol for a walk and us boys went on a short game drive, saw nothing except a beautiful sunset, so opened a couple of beers at the new camp Val is building.and then headed back to the ranch where Val and Pieter cooked us Oryx for dinner in a stew with mashed potatoes while a huge electrical storm broke overhead and gave us a massive light show. It was another late dinner and a late night and at 11pm we all wandered back to our tents hoping to see predators, but didn’t.
    Read more

  • Day 10

    The Kalahari Rest

    March 4, 2022 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    At 8am this morning we said goodbye and thanked our hosts for putting up with us, Val is unbelievably passionate about the project he and Sarah are trying to build, and Sarah has put a professional career of dancing, and modelling as well as being an architect behind her to promote the social media aspect of modisa and I would love to believe that in a few years we could go back and see the fruit of there fruition.
    Today was to be another relatively long drive to ghanzi and after dropping Robert one of Vals workers off in the next village and filling up for much needed diesel with only 3 litres left in our tank we set off.
    The roads were exactly the same all the way through, small and medium trees, no houses just straight through the Kalahari.
    After 600km, Pieter had, had enough and called in at a camp spot he had visited before. The Kalahari rest which although it does have some chalets it’s basically a motel for campers.
    It is a beautiful place with large screened off camping areas, a swimming pool, restaurant and bar and even WiFi. The funniest thing is if we want hot water we have to tell reception and they will come and light a fire for the furnace that will heat the hot water.
    After making it look like our trailer had exploded and set up our gear and tents we first went for a lovely hot shower and then went for a lovely meal all together at the restaurant.
    We were all knackered after 2 long nights without a lot of sleep and by 9:30pm after catching up with some news and social media, we all went to bed.
    Read more

  • Day 11

    The Okavango Delta

    March 5, 2022 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    By 7:30am we were packed up and back on the road, I think everyone was awake early from the herd of impala crashing through our campsite at 4am. We have another 600km drive ahead of us today to match the 600km drive from yesterday, but after today the majority of our drives will be short.
    For the past 2000km the scenery hasn’t changed, short trees and bushes and grassland, to drive through it is utterly boring but as soon as you leave the road you are in wild animal territory and could see anything from a ground squirrel to a lion.
    300km into the drive we came across a dead cow at the side of the road with more than 100 vultures eating it, there were also storks and yellow backed kites it was quite a spectacular sight. Then another 100km in and Pieter saw a chameleon at the side of the road, so stopped and picked it up and gave it to Ellie to hold in the car which obviously she loved. The chameleon wanted to be up high so sat on her head for the next 10km until we found a safe place to stop and put him in the trees away from the road.
    Another 20km down the road and Pieter spotted a snake on the edge of the road, A Mamba, and one of the deadliest snakes in the world. It almost looked dead to us but Pieter said that’s what they do and if we got out to check it, it would probably get us.
    A little while after that we came into the town of Ghanzi and stopped at a hotel called the Kalahari Lodge, one of the first ever and oldest game lodges in Botswana, for a large buffet breakfast of bacon, eggs, sausages, hash browns and beans. It was well needed.
    Back on the road we carried on driving and came into the Ocavango Delta area of Botswana vans finally the scenery started to change and we came into a little town where Pieter and Hilda could get more supplies.Unfortunately they chose to do it in the heaviest rain and thunderstorms we had, had since we got here and got drenched.
    600km in and we finally came to our campsite, the island safari lodge and we’re the only ones here. We have use of a swimming pool, hot showers, a restaurant and they’ve opened the bar for us which has WiFi so upon arrival everybody went straight in there for a drink and there was silence while we entered the matrix.
    Back at camp Pieter made us a lovely stir fry cooked for the first time on the gas stove, and we all sat under a stretched tarpaulin ate our dinner before heading to our tents at 9:30pm.
    Read more

  • Day 12

    Moremi Wildlife Reserve

    March 6, 2022 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We packed our camp up early and hit the road by 8am. It was to be a much shorter drive today of just 80km but the last 20km was on dirt roads.
    We are heading deep into the Okavango Delta and because it is the end of the wet season, rather than a sandy dustbowl, it is a lush green paradise.
    At 11am, we reached our destination. Moremi Wildlife reserve. This is a community owned wildlife area with basic camp facilities and a huge hide and restaurant area all owned by the locals.
    This is a real wild camping area, elephants, lions, hyena, absolutely anything can walk through camp at anytime.
    After 9 enjoyable but hard travelling days we spent the rest of the day chilling in the restaurant area, everyone had a good 30 minute afternoon power nap while the wildlife slept, and then at around 4:30pm the elephants came. 1 huge bull and 4 smaller elephants followed by a baby, we sat there for a good hour watching them get closer and closer and just as we thought they were going to come right up to us they headed for the campsites and then disappeared into the undergrowth. It’s amazing how quiet the elephants can be, for such huge beasts it’s like they tip toe through the undergrowth silently.
    At 7pm we had dinner, and then talked for an hour around a big campfire while it got dark. Then armed with torches and head torches we all headed for the 2 toilets as a group, done our business in turn and then made our way back to our tents. I knew this was going to be a rough night because even Pieter and Hilda were scared and just as we were getting into our tents the Lions started roaring. They sounded miles away to start with but then 10 minutes later they roared again and sounded like they were behind the hedge.
    We had been given instructions on what, and what not to do. The tents were facing the car, the seats had been cleared ready for diving in and there was no turning back now. Like it or not, we were stuck here.
    Fortunately the lions didn’t come into camp and eventually we did drop off but at 3am we had the rude awaking of hyena’s whooping and laughing as they passed around the back of the camp. Everyone was up at the tent windows like meerkats but we still didn’t see them.
    Nobody really went back to sleep and for the next 3 hours we all lay in our tents listening to the Hyena chuckling down at the water hole.
    Read more

  • Day 13

    Another wild night in Moremi

    March 7, 2022 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Not having had much sleep and what with the hyenas waking us up at 4am and keeping us awake, everyone was up early and packing up by 6:30am.
    After a quick coffee we loaded up and hit the dirt roads driving deeper and deeper into the wilderness. We had already been warned by the lady at Moremi Camp that we would probably be the only ones there and it was a 40km private game drive all the way, first we saw a herd of Zebra, then impala, then elephants and then we saw giraffe elephants and zebra altogether, it was the best drive we had, had so far.
    At 10:30am we arrived at the south entrance of the Khansi game reserve and the lady at the last camp was right, we are the only ones here, and this is dangerous territory.
    The campsites are unbelievably overgrown because nobody has been here for 2 years so just getting to the site was a problem as the elephants and hippos have decided to make wallowing holes on the tracks leading in. 3 years ago a man was pulled from his tent by a leopard and a few months later a hyena tried to take a child.
    As soon as we pulled up the monkeys were on us, Pieter was trying to make lunch while the rest of us pitched our tents and the a monkey stole a packet of 6 rolls and an onion and when Pieter started shouting at the monkey who was now at the top of a tree the monkey through 2 rolls at him, it was hilarious watching a grown man screaming at a monkey and the monkey just sat in the tree tucking in to our lunch.
    After lunch we went on a drive, I don’t know how many times we nearly got stuck in deep water, at one point it came up as far as the windows and we all got covered in mud, but it was a serious adventure and I think Pieter was in his element driving through a real jungle looking at elephants, zebra, coodoo, tortoise, and hundreds of different birds.
    At 5pm we drove back to camp and thought we’d take a walk over a rickety old bridge and try and spot the hippos but before we got there, right behind our camp was a huge matriarch elephant, we were so close, well with 10 meters hiding behind a bush so we wouldn’t scare her, we stayed there for about 20 minutes until she turned around so we headed back to camp and the elephant came up from the embankment and into the camping areas and wandered off.
    Pieter cooked us a fillet steak for dinner and we think it was probably the best we’d ever had but there is something very unsettling about eating your dinner whilst keeping a lookout with torches for any predators, the only thing that came close was hippo’s because they’re in the river right behind us but once out of the water they scare easily and we shone the torch on them and they disappeared back into the river. At 8:30pm, after dinner and another group toilet break in the bushes, it was bedtime. The lions are already roaring in the distance, hippos are groaning behind us, hyena have just started whooping the other side of camp. This could be a long night.......
    Read more

  • Day 14

    Hyenas, Hippos & Elephants

    March 8, 2022 in Botswana ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Despite being up early this morning nobody was in a particular hurry to get going. Last night seemed pretty quiet in camp but on checking the camera traps it was revealed that a hippo and a hyena passed through. Fortunately I think we were all so tired that we just slept through it.
    At 8am we left camp and went on our final game drive here. Rather than take the wet boggy road we took yesterday we passed by the South Gate entrance and the roads were much better. Apart from the odd impala, and lots of different birds we didn’t actually see much this morning and I think it was probably all the rain we had last night.
    At lunch time after a lot of turning around and trying to avoid deep water we arrived at the Dumbo Hippo pools where there were lots of Hippos talking to each other and lots of waterfowl. We spent about 2 hours there and had a bite to eat and took lots of photos.
    Leaving the hippos in the early afternoon we came across a tower of giraffes. They are such gentle and inquisitive creatures, that while we watched them they moved closer to a nearer tree so they could watch us whilst eating.
    And then the rain broke and we headed back to camp only to find that we had been raided by monkeys. Mine and Ellies storage box had, had the lid removed and everything thrown across camp. Pieter and Hilda’s tent had actually been completely unzipped and they had been in and searched the place, but Becky came worst off as they broke through the zipper on her tent and then filled it with sand.
    It was annoying but funny.
    We strung a tarpaulin between 2 trees and Caren the car and while the rain was heavy we all sat around the table with beers and wine.
    After dinner at 6:30pm, when it was pitch black we heard lots of rustling in the bushes behind our tents and as we shone the torch through a huge tusked elephant came walking through the camp about 19 meters away from us, it was amazing but scary all at the same time.
    At 8:30pm, like the hardcore people we are we all headed for our tents. The camera traps are set, hippos and elephants are directly behind our tents and it’s now a waiting game to see if any predators come to camp.
    Read more

  • Day 15

    Khansi to Planet Baobab

    March 9, 2022 in Botswana ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    We were all awake by 5am with the birds. As usual I was first up and really wish Pieter would show me where the stuff was to boil the kettle and make coffee so I could just get in with it rather than wait 2 hours for everyone else.
    As everyone else was still in bed I grabbed my camera and took some pictures of the woodpecker that visited our camp every day, Then I checked the camera traps and to everyone’s surprise we had been visited by an elephant and a hyena in the middle of the night, and nobody had seen or heard anything.
    After coffee we all packed up and then hit the road heading for Maun.It would be an 80km drive on nothing but dirt roads doing a game safari outside of a national park.
    We set off around 9am and the first 40km were pretty quiet as we expected but also slow with a top speed of 30kph then at 1pm we stopped for breakfast/lunch and as we ate a huge black cloud started forming. By the end of lunch at around 1:30pm, the rain had started and it got heavier and heavier, the roads turned from sand and clay into a boggy mess and then into a river. It was quiet scary and we lost sight of the road several times as Caren the car sunk up to the windscreen.
    About 90 minutes down the road as the rain eased a little the car started to make a scraping sound so Pieter and I jumped out and realised that the fuel tank protector had been pulled away from it’s mountings by the water.
    To fix it we needed to get under the car, and it was still raining and the road was also 2 inches deep in running water. To get underneath I decided to strip down to just my boxers leaving my dry clothes in the car and then dived under the car in the freezing, gravel soaked water.
    We managed to push the protective cover back up but we knew it wouldn’t hold without a bolt, which we didn’t have, and there was nothing to cable tie it to. So we made the best of a bad job and then I stripped completely naked before jumping in the car and putting my dry clothes back on.
    The rain continued for hours. We found a baby terrapin in one of the puddles it was so bad, then we saw a tower of giraffes with 3 babies and finally, with the rain still coming down we got to the campsite of Planet Baobab.
    4 days ago we all had the chance to do laundry but we checked to see if we should and Pieter said no, we’ll be able to do it here, there will also be electric WiFi and food served.
    It had rained all day so you can image how pissed off we were when we realised we had to sleep on flooded campgrounds. There was no argument in that, we certainly didn’t have a choice and if there had been one, Ellie, Myself and Becky would have chosen somewhere else, but being good sports we just went along with it. Then, on opening the trailer with all our bags and clothes in we realised it had Been flooded and all our clothes were soaked and so was Becky’s mattress. And then we found out we had no electric at the site we had paid for, and there was no WiFi.
    I was really annoyed, and what was Pieter going to do about it? Have a shower......,
    Now I was more annoyed, but we set up the 2 tents under a bbq shelter so hopefully they won’t get any wetter, and fortunately Ellie had her blow up mattress so Becky borrowed that.
    We had dinner in the restaurant, which somehow Ellie and I ended up paying for so now Ellie is annoyed aswell but on the way back from dinner we found an African Pygmy Hedgehog and that cheered everyone up. I’m really hoping the sun is going to be shining tomorrow and everyone will be in a better mood. Now you can see why people in the UK are so miserable all the time.
    At 10pm we all went to bed, it’s still thundering and raining.
    Read more

  • Day 16

    Planet Baobab to Elephant Sands

    March 10, 2022 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After a rainy day yesterday, we managed to sleep dry under the bbq shelters of our campsite. We were all up early, had hot showers and when we came out of the bathrooms the sun was shining and our bags and clothes took no time to dry hanging outside. Luckily we were in no hurry to leave as we only had a short 200km drive to our next camp.
    We left around 10am, stopped en route at the choppies supermarket where I spoke to the military guys about where we had been in our Toyota Fortuner and they were impressed about how far and where we had been and still not needed the winch.
    Then it was back in the road in the 30°c heat to our resting place for the next couple of days.Elephant Sands.
    This camp was going to be one of the highlights of the trip and as soon as we got there we could see why. Elephants were everywhere drinking from a huge watering hole and we pitched our tents right in front and had a panoramic ringside view. It is an amazing place and the only thing separating us from the elephants is a line of small stones.
    Once pitched we all threw on our swimming gear and went over to the pool, bar and restaurant area, grabbed a cool beer and went for a swim with the elephants right in front of us, it’s an unbelievable feeling being so close.
    The funny thing is elephants make absolutely no noise. They can walk past you silently, like they are on tip toe’s and until they are on top of you you’d never know they were there.
    After a long cooling swim we went back to camp, had a few more drinks and Pieter made us his fillet steak with mashed potatoes and truffles for dinner and it was amazing. Just after dinner we saw impala racing across the campsite the other side of the watering hole and just as they went out of sight some campers at the other end of the field started shouting “Wilddogs,Wilddogs!!”and there they were, a whole pack of 10-15 Wilddogs chasing down the impala looking for a meal, but then they saw us. And for all us onlookers the Wilddogs stopped 50 meters away and stared at us and everyone with a camera, including me got the best photos of Wilddogs. We couldn’t believe how lucky we were.
    The rest of the evening we sat around the fire watching huge elephants walk in and out of camp and as it got darker the huge looming shadows of elephants stopped right in front of us, lifting there trunks to sniff and check us out, at one point there were 2 that looked like they might charge at us but then a big older male came over and stood in front of them protecting us and telling the younger males that we were no threat. It was the most amazing evening, and as we all climbed in our tents we could hear elephants walking past until the early hours of the morning.
    Read more

  • Day 17

    One Last day at Elephant Sands

    March 11, 2022 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Waking up at 5am the sky was a blazing orange and as we unzipped our tent to watch the sunrise, we realised everyone else was up at there tent doors aswell. It was a spectacular display of nature first thing in the morning and once the sun had risen above the safari cabins we all headed down to the restaurant for our buffet breakfast. Most of us chose the full English, Atleast England is good for something.
    For the rest of the day we just chilled out. There were charging stations by the bar and free WiFi so at some point during the rest of the morning we all sat there and caught up with our social media and emails.
    After a tuna salad which Hilda made for lunch we soaked in the pool, Ellie went to catch up on some sleep and the rest of us had gin and tonics and some beers whilst watching the elephants come to the watering hole. At one point we had 14 animals all making a semi circle around the outside of the watering hole, and then the lodge owners came to the bar area with 3 baby mongoose they had rescued and we all got to play with them and give them a cuddle. They are remarkably like ferrets.
    At 5pm Pieter went off to make the camp fire and start dinner and an hour later the rest of us joined him, all the vegetables were prepped and in a crockpot and he put the vegetable curry in the fire and 2 hours later it was ready.
    While we ate our curry and rice 2 big male elephants were fighting with each other not 50 meters in front of us, it was amazing and possibly a once in a lifetime experience.
    After dinner we all went back to the restaurant and sat around the open fire pit with elephants right in front of us and I positioned everyone around the fire and set my camera up and got an awesome shot of the campfire with everyone looking across the waterhole and a huge elephant staring back at us in the dark.
    Then it was back to camp and into our tents for bed, whilst yet more elephants passed by the fronts of our tents.
    Read more

  • Day 18

    Chobe

    March 12, 2022 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    This morning we watched a blazing orange sunrise again whilst the impala’s ducked and dived under the safari tents eating the grass and keeping a lookout for predators. We skipped breakfast, had a quick coffee and by 8am we had all our camping gear stowed away and we were in the road.
    It was just a short 280km drive today and there are only 2 roads. Besides there official A numbers, the first road is called the elephants highway and the second road is call the wildlife corridor, and we found out why.
    Driving down the Elephants highway we saw numerous elephants at the side and crossing the road, then we saw a black mamba snake and a tortoise on then road.
    Just as we joined the road called the wildlife corridor, Pieter with his unbelievable eyesight spotted a chameleon in the road so we stopped to rescue it from being run over. Ellie named it Pascal, and Pieter said it would be better off coming with us as it’s a protected area and he joined our road trip for the next leg of our journey.
    We stopped at the Spar supermarket just before reaching our destination and got food for the night and lunch, luckily Pascal stayed in the car as we found a wild warthog drinking water from a dog bowl in the main square and Pieter said that this time last year a pack of Lions caught an impala outside the Spar and the police had to cordon off the town while they ate it.
    From there it was a short 10 minute drive to our final destination, Chobe Safari lodge.
    After checking in at reception, we found a camping spot deep in the woods about 50 yards away from the crocodile infested river.As we set up camp a young bushbuck and her baby came over and it happened to be one that Pieter had rescued from a snare a couple of years ago. She didn’t recognise him at first but once he sparked up a joint the smell of cannabis seemed to do the trick and she came right up to us and Ellie even got a kiss.
    Then we listed all our clothes and put them in bin bags ready to hand them in to the laundry girls tomorrow, everyone is down to there last pieces of clothing, and I think underwear has already been used atleast twice. So we spent the rest of the day in our swimwear around the pool with some drinks before coming back to camp and watching an amazing sunset over the river. Then it was dinner time and Pieter cooked us all rump steaks, which isn’t as good as the fillet but it was still amazing and I got most of it with the cheesy mushrooms. Then after a couple of beers it was time to try and sleep with all the animals cawing, and screeching around us.
    Read more