• Misadventures Of Wanda
feb. – mar. 2022

Our African Adventure

Follow us as we embark on our most exciting adventure yet, driving and free camping through the African deserts and game reserves Leer más
  • Inicio del viaje
    23 de febrero de 2022
  • Next stop Africa

    23 de febrero de 2022, Inglaterra ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    We left home a little before midday, taking the slow and arduous journey back to Chelmsford. Our first stop was Ellies mum and dads house for a nice lunch and a car swap.
    We charged our electrical items one last time, tested the go pro and had a final check of our baggage and then Ellies dad drove us to Heathrow, traffic was heavy but it generally flowed quite well and we made good time.
    We dropped our bags at check in straight away, proved our covid tests and then proceeded through security. For some reason the scanners didn’t like Ellie this time and we got held up 10 minutes while they ran a handheld scanner over Ellie and then we had to have our bags searched. But eventually we got through.
    Next stop Africa!!
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  • Arriving in Johannesburg

    24 de febrero de 2022, Sudáfrica ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After a ten and a half hour flight we touched down in Johannesburg airport at 8:30am South African time. Getting through security was super easy. Hand over our covid certificate, show our passports and walk straight through. It was our fastest security check ever.
    After collecting our bags we proceeded out of the airport to the taxi lot and once there we contacted our hotel via WhatsApp. Once again this was super easy and within 15 minutes our airport driver was there to collect us. He was a nice guy and gave us a short South African history lesson on the short 5 minute drive to the hotel.
    Our hotel is the Aero guest lodge in kempton park, it’s a very small place with only 6 small lodges but it’s clean, tidy and has a pool for us to relax by and the room is big enough that we don’t feel claustrophobic. We’re only going to be here for 24 hours so we just need a bed and a shower, anything else is a bonus.
    We were both really tired after the flight and although I did get a little sleep on the flight, Ellie didn’t get any atall so I had a quick dip in the swimming pool and had a cheeky beer, while Ellie had a tea and then we had a sleep for a couple of hours.
    We couldn’t go anywhere I’m even if we wanted to, Johannesburg is currently the murder capital and car jacking capital of the world and if those statistics didn’t put you off there was a local guy sentenced last week for nearly decapitating his girlfriend. On top of that, this particular hotel is in the heart of the red light district and they were advertising in the streets on the way in, but not to worry. Nobody can get to us because we are behind an 8 foot wall topped with an electric fence and huge electric security gates.
    Yes, it does feel like we are staying in Pablo Escobars prison but, it’s calm this of the wall and we’ve just got to stick it out for 24 hours.
    This evening we ordered a take out which of course was delivered and we had dinner with our airport driver and later we were joined by a German man and his 18 year old daughter, Lilly, who is trying to be a tour guide. The German man actually owns his own safari camp in Zambia so we spent a good couple of hours picking his brains on where to go and what to do.
    Tomorrow, all being well Pieter and Hilde will meet up with us a our African Adventure will really begin.
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  • Our first night wild camping

    25 de febrero de 2022, Sudáfrica ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    After a very bad nights sleep I woke up at 6:30am and Ellie woke up at around 8am. The people in the chalet next door to us must have been deaf, because there TV was up so load we could clearly hear it in our room. To top it off our room just got hotter and hotter and by 1:30am I gave up trying to sleep and went an sat out by the swimming 25 meters from our room and I could still hear next doors TV. The planes landing and taking off also didn’t help and although they did stop big planes at 1am, at 6:30sm on the dot they were coming back in.
    At 8:30am we went for a cooked breakfast of Bacon, eggs and chips and then had a shower and sorted our stuff out for leaving.
    Pieter and Hilda were supposed to pick us up from our guest lodge between 11 and 12 but by 1pm they hadn’t arrived and slight panic set in, but at 2pm just before the heavens opened they arrived and we loaded up his Toyota Land Cruiser and trailer and off we went. Unbeknown to us another guest had booked to come on our trip 2 days ago an American girl called Becky. So off we went to a different airport to collect her.
    On the way there was a mega thunderstorm and it even blocked the sun out it was so dark and heavy with rain. It took us 2 hours to get to the airport and it should have taken us 30 minutes, but eventually we picked Becky up and we are now a group of 5. Pieter who is native South African, Hilda, from Norway, Becky from New York and us from the UK. All we have in common is adventure.
    Our first stop and first camp is Pilingsberg National Park, and after once again driving through mega thunderstorms we arrived at around 5pm. At the entrance we were greeted by hundreds of impala’s and after Pieter checked us in, he drove us straight to our first camp spot.
    It is a designated camping area and although there are other campers here we feel pretty isolated. There’s even 2 motorhomes just like Wanda. We all unloaded the trailer and Pieter gave us all our tents and camping gear and each of set to work putting the tents up and then putting in the bedding and lights, whoever was finished first went in to help the next person. While Pieter sorted out the fire and food and got the drinks flowing. Already we are becoming a little team. Pieter cooked a lovely meal of South African sausage, with corn on the cob and salad on an open fire and then we all sat around the fire talking talking before finally calling it a day and crawling into our tents at 9:30pm.
    This is it, Our first night wild camping in a tent in Africa!!
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  • Pilansberg Game Reserve

    26 de febrero de 2022, Sudáfrica ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    This morning we were all up bright and early. Hilda was up first at 5:15am and I was a close second at 5:30am. While Hilda was doing yoga I was doing press ups waking ourselves up nicely. Ellie was next out of Bed and then Pieter who got fresh coffee and some breakfast cereals on the go and finally Becky was up at around 6:15am.
    By 7am we were all ready, and we set off for the gates and entered pilansberg National park. I had high hopes of seeing a leopard on entry and had 2 cameras and the go pro ready but unfortunately the universe had other ideas.
    Within 30 minutes it started raining, and came over very black and then thunder and lightning started. It wasn’t very heavy but with none of the animals want to get wet so everything except a few birds and a random Elephant miles in the distance was in hiding.
    Our first stop of the day was a watering hole and although there were no big animals we did see Pied Kingfishers close up and got some beautiful shots, then on leaving there we saw Hippos just surfacing from a lake.
    Our second stop was for a quick coffee at the guest lodge and we took that with us and got back on the hunt. Next on the list was a giraffe, then a few Zebra and the rain was now starting to clear so Pieter thought it would be a good idea to stop for lunch for an hour or so and then try again.
    We had a picnic, and the girls threw together a mixed bean salad with some ham and some rolls and we sat there for an hour hand feeding a small Guinea Fowl while the sun eventually came out and started to cook us.
    Within 15 minutes it went from 19°c to 33°c and we set back off exploring with the air con blasting.
    As we turned the first corner from our picnic spot, we saw wilder beasts with babies, Zebra with babies and warthog with babies. It was an amazing sight and Pieter turned the engine off and we sat there for 20 minutes with the animals right in front of us.
    From there we drove in and less than a kilometre later we ran into a heard of atleast 20 elephants and they had several babies with them too. We sat there for ages as 2 young males started to play fight and then they all crossed the road right in front of us. As we turned the next corner there were 2 White Rhino right in front of us. Today has been an incredible day.
    Our last stop of the day was another huge watering hole and this time we had hippos across the other side, we could only just see them but a big male kept on popping his head up and yawning and Ellie was determined to get a picture. Eventually she did get an amazing shot.
    Then at 6:30pm it was back to camp.
    No we hadn’t seen any big cats but I think the elephants and rhino made up for it and we still have a long way to travel yet.
    Back at camp, Pieter cooked us a wonderful meal of marinated pork, with steamed vegetables and cheesy mushrooms with herbs. It was a stunning meal cooked completely and perfectly on an open fire.
    We shared some drinks and some stories around the fire again before heading for bed at 10pm. Tomorrow we have a big drive ahead of us.
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  • The 800km Drive

    27 de febrero de 2022, Sudáfrica ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    This morning everyone was up at 5:30am, we had breakfast early with a couple of extra strong coffees and then packed up our tents. Today is moving day and we have a huge drive ahead of us.
    Pieter said ideally he’d like to be packed and ready to leave by 8am, but by 7:30am we were already on the road.
    We had a choice of driving a direct 800km drive to our next destination or stopping at 1 of 2 camping lodges Pieter already knew. We decided to go for the whole drive and every couple of hours Pieter would stop and check that we were ok and asked if we wanted to carry on.
    Apart from the towns we passed through there was absolutely nothing except a long straight road and I do mean long. Once we got away from all civilisation there was nothing but green fields and the odd small bush for about 300km. It was the most boring road, and drive ever. To top it off there is no radio in the car, and despite us checking before leaving the UK, there is also no real way of charging anything like phones or batteries. If we have electric we do have an extension lead but last night we had no power and Pieter said we could charge stuff in the car. However the car only has one working usb and there’s 5 of us. I’m beginning to realise that Pieter is a fly by the seat of his pants kind of guy, that likes to drink a lot and smoke dope, I wouldn’t say he’s disorganised but this is definitely his trip and we are just along for the ride.
    We drove and drove, through small towns stopping if we needed to stretch our legs or needed the toilet and then went on again and to make things worse the outside temperature reached a whopping 41°c .11 solid hours of driving, Pieter is a machine when it comes to the road, and eventually we ended up at our destination at 6:30pm.
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  • Augrabies Falls National Park

    27 de febrero de 2022, Sudáfrica ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    Augrabies falls national park. As we got there so late Pieter wanted to take us straight to the falls for sunset and we arrived just in time.
    There are 2 falls, one quite small and one is huge and absolutely raging but there are 3 different platforms to view them and just as we got there the sky turned pink and then purple and we all got some amazing shots.
    Then it was back to camp to pitch the tents while Pieter made dinner and just as it got dark a swarm of locusts infested the camp site.
    Dinner was chicken, deep filled cheesy mushrooms and spinach, it was an incredible meal once again cooked on an open fire and as we ate dinner we watched a storm blow in.
    By 10pm, the storm had broken overhead, there isn’t a lot of rain but there is a terrific amount of thunder and lightning and the outside temperature is still in the 30’s. And the locusts and trying to get in our tents, sleeping is going to a nightmare but there is something quite exciting about sleeping in tent with a huge electrical storm overhead.
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  • Sun dried Raisins in the Kalahari

    28 de febrero de 2022, Sudáfrica ⋅ ⛅ 36 °C

    This morning we got up super early at 5am and made our way back down to the viewpoint over the falls.
    We watched an amazing sunrise and on the way back to camp we saw Hyraxes, baboons and a yellow mongoose.
    After coffee and breakfast we packed up camp and made our way to the town of Upminster where we did the shopping for the next 4-5 days. We will be heading north in the next day or so and will be completely off grid wild camping.
    After shopping we had to go to another shop because the Spar we went to didn’t have everything and then we went to a restaurant called DROS for lunch, once there we all ordered off the breakfast menu but it took an hour to come out. Pieter was just about to tell them we were leaving and then the food appeared.
    That put us back by 2 hours but today was all about getting to the next camp spot, and if there was anything left in the day we would go looking for animals but tomorrow was going to be a full day.
    We have driven hundreds of miles across the Khalahari Desert but you wouldn’t know it because it has been the wet season and there are grasses on what would be desert, this is where there are thousands of grapevines used for making wine and drying the grapes to make raisins.
    2 hours later and at 4pm we arrived in Kgalagadi National Park. And it is right on the Botswana border. Infact we had to go through customs to go into the park because if you turn left you stay in South Africa but if you turn right your in Botswana.
    We found a beautiful camp spot, and I have to say I’m impressed by the standards of the facilities. There have been nice toilets and showers at every camp we have visited and Pilinsberg even had baths. It puts camp sights in the UK to shame.
    At camp we basically just ditched the trailer and went stray on a game drive before it was to late and we were thankful that we did.
    First off we saw Ibox, with 2 young. Then we saw ground squirrels, then we saw a Bat eared fox thanks to Ellies keen eyesight, and then a couple of mongoose, not to mention the huge weaver birds nests that we found.
    In the distance we saw a huge Supercell forming and slowly starting to turn in the sky, it was just as incredible as seeing the animals and as were leaving the park at sunset the Cell turned a pinky purple colour and we could see the rain falling from it’s base.
    Back at camp we sorted out the tents, made camp and had drinks. It got to 37°c today and the air conditioning in the car has been playing up so we decided to name the car Caren, with a C, because she is temperamental.
    Pieter cooked us Beef Patties with rice and vegetables for dinner and we were watched by an Eagle owl who decided to join the campground for a while, once again it was a great meal, cooked to perfection on an open fire.
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  • Random Strangers in the Kalahari

    1 de marzo de 2022, Sudáfrica ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    Today was an amazing day. We were up first thing at 5am brewing coffee and sorting breakfast. I actually thought we were leaving camp really early but it turned out to be a little later than expected, but by 7:30am we were back through the park gates and game hunting across the kalahari.
    Within the first 5 minutes of driving we saw the back end of a caracol disappearing into the long grass, then we saw wilderbeast, orax and springbock by a shallow watering hole.
    From there we headed to a picnic area where your actually allowed out of your car, and we had some snacks and used the toilets before moving on.
    Moving up we saw numerous falcons and got a chance to photograph the social weaver birds nests, and then we saw a secretary bird killing something on the ground. Mongoose, and ground squirrel were next followed by more birds, and then an American lady passed us and stopped us and asked if we had seen the cheetah and the lions back the way we had come. Obviously we hadn’t so we spun Caren around and headed back for camp.
    Sure enough 20 minutes later we found 2 Cheetah sleeping under a tree and although they were a little way off, we could see them with the camera’s.
    From there we headed straight back to camp, the temperature was now 38°c and the animals were starting to find shade and lay down. When we got back we all got changed into our swimming gear and Pieter and Hilda went up to the pool while the rest of sorted our clothes out to follow shortly. Ellie went to get changed in the toilets and I sat down talking to Becky, then when Ellie returned Becky said for us to go on because she might be a while and I thought she went to her tent.
    Just as Ellie and I were about to leave a huge gust of wind picked up Becky’s tent and blew it through the campsite. We both took off after it and every time we got close the wind would take it further and as it rolled upside down I saw a lump bouncing around which I presumed was Becky.
    Fortunately Becky was actually in the toilets getting changed and she couldn’t believe we had, had a mini tornado in the the 2 minutes she had been away.
    The pool water was seriously refreshing in the 40°c heat and as we were talking about lunch the American lady who had told us about the Cheetah cam to find us.
    Apparently her husband had to work at 2pm so would we like to split up, and some of us drive her car and take her on a game drive later, I said yes straight away but when she left we decided Pieter would drive her car and I would drive Caren, but in the end I let Becky drive.
    At 4pm, we went to chalet 4 where we picked Jennifer up and she had provided a cooler box of champagne, wine and beer with cheese and biscuits it was quite something, and with beer in hand we took off across the Kalahari. Becky drove, and from the outset the three of us were having a serious laugh and exchanging funny stories. At 5:30pm we stopped at a different picnic area where we all had a beer except for Becky, who as designated driver got a half bottle of opened champagne to swig from the bottle on our return journey. On the return journey we saw Meerkats.
    Back at Jennifer’s chalet we were reintroduced to her husband David, and then spent 2 hours with them talking and exchanging stories. Jennifer is a real character, from Colorado and has stories to turn your hair white.
    Back at camp at 8pm Pieter cooked us dinner of tomato and mushroom pasta and we finished the half bottle of champagne that Becky didn’t want.
    This was the most random day ever, but we’ve made a new, if not eccentric friend and I can honestly say this was one of the best road trip days ever.
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  • Botswana Here We Come

    2 de marzo de 2022, Botsuana ⋅ 🌙 32 °C

    This morning we were all up bright and early at 6am. First we had a coffee and just after 7am we jumped into the car and headed off on a game drive.
    This mornings sighting’s were amazing, first we saw 2 black back Jackal sleeping on the plain and one got up and walked off, then we saw 2 more walking down the road and we were right next to them in the car to get pictures, then we saw a pack of 5 walking across the plains hunting.
    From there we saw a male and female ostrich with 5 babies, and to top it off we saw 4 cheetah’s on a ridge sunbathing and then they took off hunting.
    From there we turned Caren around, who had now developed a squeak, and headed back for camp for a small breakfast of scrambled eggs and fruit, before packing up camp.
    Today is moving day and we’re not just moving camp we’re moving country, this will be our first ever land border crossing and all fruit and fresh produce has to be used or disposed of.
    Finally at 12pm we set off heading for Botswana. We passed through tiny little villages while the sun got up to it’s full strength of 37°c today and then Caren the car through a wobbly and decided to stop the air conditioning, luckily just as it became swelteringly hot the air con would kick back in and that happened for the rest of the journey, hot for a while, cold for a while.
    Just after 2 we arrived at the Botswana Border, and after completing our covid checks with a dyslexic nurse we were on our way, out of South Africa and into Botswana.
    Almost immediately you could see the difference in the countries driving down the road that on the border separating the 2 countries. South Africa was Lush and green after a good wet season and in the other side was orange sand and hardly any vegetation, just like someone had turned the tap off when they got to the border.
    We were heading for a small wild encampment owned by friends of Hilda, it’s not yet open to the public and is a conservation project but there’s hundreds of animals all roaming free.
    At 4:30pm we came to a turn off on the tarmac road that took us down a dirt sandy track, went straight across the Kalahari for 45 mins and then came to a fence and turned left and then right for another hour, it was a really crazy track. Eventually we came to some huge steel gates with an animal skull on and let ourselves in. Then we drove for another 25 minutes until eventually we came to house. We were greeted be a female lion called Sergei in a huge 20,000 acre enclose and a black man cutting a wilderbeast in half with a saw, and the owner of the ranch and his wife named Val and Sue.
    We were shown where to park the car and pitch camp and then given the rules. Don’t leave the tent at night, don’t go anywhere on our own, don’t go to see the lion on our own, leopards and hyenas will be outside our tents tonight so when we get in then stay in them.
    Then we went up to the ranch house and we’re greeted by a Caracol, Sue & Val had rescued. This was turning into a stranger day than yesterday.
    We had a very late dinner with Val and Sue and got to know more about them and there conservation projects, I was told I could set up a camera trap where the wilderbeast had just been cut up and that’s what I’ve done and then we all sat around a fire pit and had dinner of Pork and vegetables cooked on an open fire, then as were leaving a porcupine came in to the ranch garden. A truly amazing sight.
    We were there until 11:30pm and then in the pitch black, myself, Ellie and Becky all walked back to our tents which are now out in the open, next to the long grass where the predators are roaming free. We are all nervous about sleeping but excited at the same time.
    Hopefully in the morning the camera traps will show how close we came to an encounter.
    If we survive the encounter in the first place.
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  • The Thin Black Line Of The Kalahari

    3 de marzo de 2022, Botsuana ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Waking up at 6am, while the kettle boiled I checked the camera traps. Unfortunately, even though they were pointed at the entrails of a wilderbeast there were no leopards or hyena, but I did manage to catch a giant bat and I’d also have to settle for filming a dung beetle. Which was quite fascinating.
    Val had promised us a flight in his 2 seater plane if the weather was good and not long after finishing our breakfast he came and got us to see if we were up for a flight.
    Of course we were, and on the way to the airstrip he showed us the porcupine den which was massive.
    At the small hanger we filled the little plane with fuel, Val done the flight checks and we picked a flight order. Ellie was first, and after a quick safety briefing we pushed the plane out out of the hanger, Ellie climbed in, Val started the engine and off they went. A 30 minute flight over the Kalahari.
    When they came back Ellie said she had cried because she was so happy and obviously this was a once in a lifetime experience.
    I was next and as soon as we left the runway Val said he wanted some altitude and he pulled the nose up straight away and as he did he did a hard bank to the right and all you could see in every direction is desert. No houses, No people lots of trees and bushes and desert to fill the gaps. As we climbed higher a black horizon line appeared which were the trees and bushes merging in to a blur in the distance. It was very much like the thin blue line of oxygen you see from spacecraft photos between earth and space, only this was the thin black line of the Kalahari.
    Becky went next, followed by Hilda and we all thoroughly enjoyed the flight, back on the ground we were all grinning from ear to ear and it was only 11 o clock in the morning.
    Back at the ranch we all sat and played with Caramel, the blind Caracol for a little while to wear her out, it was truly a privilege to be so close and cuddle a wild animal and then we just chilled around the camp for a while and Val told us how he came to be in South Africa.
    Val is German, and Sarah is Danish and they both met each other in South Africa while doing volunteer work with conservation and animals at various camps. Val’s original work started out with an animal resetting program and flew helicopters for a South African without a license until he ended up committing suicide, which then left Val Jobless until he was called upon to sort out a lion problem at a camp somewhere up north. Basically it turned out the lions were over breeding because males and females were in enclosures together so Val sorted out a sterilisation program and manage to rehome 16 of the lions in various facilities but somehow he ended up rescuing a small cub called Sergi and then started his own conservation camp which he was forced to close because he was a foreigner, so someone donated him 7000 hectares in Botswana and now he’s setup the Medisa Foundation.
    After him telling us this we went to see Sergi the lion who has a huge enclosure of 2000 hectares and his bond with is unbelievable, he not only plays with her, he walks her for 8 hours a day twice a week and even hunts with her so she can take down a wilderbeast and he has to make the kill because she was never taught how to kill from the pride. Sergi is very possessive over Val, and barely tolerates Sarah unless Sarah has food.
    After seeing Sergi, all of the girls took Caramel the Caracol for a walk and us boys went on a short game drive, saw nothing except a beautiful sunset, so opened a couple of beers at the new camp Val is building.and then headed back to the ranch where Val and Pieter cooked us Oryx for dinner in a stew with mashed potatoes while a huge electrical storm broke overhead and gave us a massive light show. It was another late dinner and a late night and at 11pm we all wandered back to our tents hoping to see predators, but didn’t.
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  • The Kalahari Rest

    4 de marzo de 2022, Botsuana ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    At 8am this morning we said goodbye and thanked our hosts for putting up with us, Val is unbelievably passionate about the project he and Sarah are trying to build, and Sarah has put a professional career of dancing, and modelling as well as being an architect behind her to promote the social media aspect of modisa and I would love to believe that in a few years we could go back and see the fruit of there fruition.
    Today was to be another relatively long drive to ghanzi and after dropping Robert one of Vals workers off in the next village and filling up for much needed diesel with only 3 litres left in our tank we set off.
    The roads were exactly the same all the way through, small and medium trees, no houses just straight through the Kalahari.
    After 600km, Pieter had, had enough and called in at a camp spot he had visited before. The Kalahari rest which although it does have some chalets it’s basically a motel for campers.
    It is a beautiful place with large screened off camping areas, a swimming pool, restaurant and bar and even WiFi. The funniest thing is if we want hot water we have to tell reception and they will come and light a fire for the furnace that will heat the hot water.
    After making it look like our trailer had exploded and set up our gear and tents we first went for a lovely hot shower and then went for a lovely meal all together at the restaurant.
    We were all knackered after 2 long nights without a lot of sleep and by 9:30pm after catching up with some news and social media, we all went to bed.
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  • The Okavango Delta

    5 de marzo de 2022, Botsuana ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    By 7:30am we were packed up and back on the road, I think everyone was awake early from the herd of impala crashing through our campsite at 4am. We have another 600km drive ahead of us today to match the 600km drive from yesterday, but after today the majority of our drives will be short.
    For the past 2000km the scenery hasn’t changed, short trees and bushes and grassland, to drive through it is utterly boring but as soon as you leave the road you are in wild animal territory and could see anything from a ground squirrel to a lion.
    300km into the drive we came across a dead cow at the side of the road with more than 100 vultures eating it, there were also storks and yellow backed kites it was quite a spectacular sight. Then another 100km in and Pieter saw a chameleon at the side of the road, so stopped and picked it up and gave it to Ellie to hold in the car which obviously she loved. The chameleon wanted to be up high so sat on her head for the next 10km until we found a safe place to stop and put him in the trees away from the road.
    Another 20km down the road and Pieter spotted a snake on the edge of the road, A Mamba, and one of the deadliest snakes in the world. It almost looked dead to us but Pieter said that’s what they do and if we got out to check it, it would probably get us.
    A little while after that we came into the town of Ghanzi and stopped at a hotel called the Kalahari Lodge, one of the first ever and oldest game lodges in Botswana, for a large buffet breakfast of bacon, eggs, sausages, hash browns and beans. It was well needed.
    Back on the road we carried on driving and came into the Ocavango Delta area of Botswana vans finally the scenery started to change and we came into a little town where Pieter and Hilda could get more supplies.Unfortunately they chose to do it in the heaviest rain and thunderstorms we had, had since we got here and got drenched.
    600km in and we finally came to our campsite, the island safari lodge and we’re the only ones here. We have use of a swimming pool, hot showers, a restaurant and they’ve opened the bar for us which has WiFi so upon arrival everybody went straight in there for a drink and there was silence while we entered the matrix.
    Back at camp Pieter made us a lovely stir fry cooked for the first time on the gas stove, and we all sat under a stretched tarpaulin ate our dinner before heading to our tents at 9:30pm.
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  • Moremi Wildlife Reserve

    6 de marzo de 2022, Botsuana ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We packed our camp up early and hit the road by 8am. It was to be a much shorter drive today of just 80km but the last 20km was on dirt roads.
    We are heading deep into the Okavango Delta and because it is the end of the wet season, rather than a sandy dustbowl, it is a lush green paradise.
    At 11am, we reached our destination. Moremi Wildlife reserve. This is a community owned wildlife area with basic camp facilities and a huge hide and restaurant area all owned by the locals.
    This is a real wild camping area, elephants, lions, hyena, absolutely anything can walk through camp at anytime.
    After 9 enjoyable but hard travelling days we spent the rest of the day chilling in the restaurant area, everyone had a good 30 minute afternoon power nap while the wildlife slept, and then at around 4:30pm the elephants came. 1 huge bull and 4 smaller elephants followed by a baby, we sat there for a good hour watching them get closer and closer and just as we thought they were going to come right up to us they headed for the campsites and then disappeared into the undergrowth. It’s amazing how quiet the elephants can be, for such huge beasts it’s like they tip toe through the undergrowth silently.
    At 7pm we had dinner, and then talked for an hour around a big campfire while it got dark. Then armed with torches and head torches we all headed for the 2 toilets as a group, done our business in turn and then made our way back to our tents. I knew this was going to be a rough night because even Pieter and Hilda were scared and just as we were getting into our tents the Lions started roaring. They sounded miles away to start with but then 10 minutes later they roared again and sounded like they were behind the hedge.
    We had been given instructions on what, and what not to do. The tents were facing the car, the seats had been cleared ready for diving in and there was no turning back now. Like it or not, we were stuck here.
    Fortunately the lions didn’t come into camp and eventually we did drop off but at 3am we had the rude awaking of hyena’s whooping and laughing as they passed around the back of the camp. Everyone was up at the tent windows like meerkats but we still didn’t see them.
    Nobody really went back to sleep and for the next 3 hours we all lay in our tents listening to the Hyena chuckling down at the water hole.
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  • Another wild night in Moremi

    7 de marzo de 2022, Botsuana ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Not having had much sleep and what with the hyenas waking us up at 4am and keeping us awake, everyone was up early and packing up by 6:30am.
    After a quick coffee we loaded up and hit the dirt roads driving deeper and deeper into the wilderness. We had already been warned by the lady at Moremi Camp that we would probably be the only ones there and it was a 40km private game drive all the way, first we saw a herd of Zebra, then impala, then elephants and then we saw giraffe elephants and zebra altogether, it was the best drive we had, had so far.
    At 10:30am we arrived at the south entrance of the Khansi game reserve and the lady at the last camp was right, we are the only ones here, and this is dangerous territory.
    The campsites are unbelievably overgrown because nobody has been here for 2 years so just getting to the site was a problem as the elephants and hippos have decided to make wallowing holes on the tracks leading in. 3 years ago a man was pulled from his tent by a leopard and a few months later a hyena tried to take a child.
    As soon as we pulled up the monkeys were on us, Pieter was trying to make lunch while the rest of us pitched our tents and the a monkey stole a packet of 6 rolls and an onion and when Pieter started shouting at the monkey who was now at the top of a tree the monkey through 2 rolls at him, it was hilarious watching a grown man screaming at a monkey and the monkey just sat in the tree tucking in to our lunch.
    After lunch we went on a drive, I don’t know how many times we nearly got stuck in deep water, at one point it came up as far as the windows and we all got covered in mud, but it was a serious adventure and I think Pieter was in his element driving through a real jungle looking at elephants, zebra, coodoo, tortoise, and hundreds of different birds.
    At 5pm we drove back to camp and thought we’d take a walk over a rickety old bridge and try and spot the hippos but before we got there, right behind our camp was a huge matriarch elephant, we were so close, well with 10 meters hiding behind a bush so we wouldn’t scare her, we stayed there for about 20 minutes until she turned around so we headed back to camp and the elephant came up from the embankment and into the camping areas and wandered off.
    Pieter cooked us a fillet steak for dinner and we think it was probably the best we’d ever had but there is something very unsettling about eating your dinner whilst keeping a lookout with torches for any predators, the only thing that came close was hippo’s because they’re in the river right behind us but once out of the water they scare easily and we shone the torch on them and they disappeared back into the river. At 8:30pm, after dinner and another group toilet break in the bushes, it was bedtime. The lions are already roaring in the distance, hippos are groaning behind us, hyena have just started whooping the other side of camp. This could be a long night.......
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  • Hyenas, Hippos & Elephants

    8 de marzo de 2022, Botsuana ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Despite being up early this morning nobody was in a particular hurry to get going. Last night seemed pretty quiet in camp but on checking the camera traps it was revealed that a hippo and a hyena passed through. Fortunately I think we were all so tired that we just slept through it.
    At 8am we left camp and went on our final game drive here. Rather than take the wet boggy road we took yesterday we passed by the South Gate entrance and the roads were much better. Apart from the odd impala, and lots of different birds we didn’t actually see much this morning and I think it was probably all the rain we had last night.
    At lunch time after a lot of turning around and trying to avoid deep water we arrived at the Dumbo Hippo pools where there were lots of Hippos talking to each other and lots of waterfowl. We spent about 2 hours there and had a bite to eat and took lots of photos.
    Leaving the hippos in the early afternoon we came across a tower of giraffes. They are such gentle and inquisitive creatures, that while we watched them they moved closer to a nearer tree so they could watch us whilst eating.
    And then the rain broke and we headed back to camp only to find that we had been raided by monkeys. Mine and Ellies storage box had, had the lid removed and everything thrown across camp. Pieter and Hilda’s tent had actually been completely unzipped and they had been in and searched the place, but Becky came worst off as they broke through the zipper on her tent and then filled it with sand.
    It was annoying but funny.
    We strung a tarpaulin between 2 trees and Caren the car and while the rain was heavy we all sat around the table with beers and wine.
    After dinner at 6:30pm, when it was pitch black we heard lots of rustling in the bushes behind our tents and as we shone the torch through a huge tusked elephant came walking through the camp about 19 meters away from us, it was amazing but scary all at the same time.
    At 8:30pm, like the hardcore people we are we all headed for our tents. The camera traps are set, hippos and elephants are directly behind our tents and it’s now a waiting game to see if any predators come to camp.
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  • Khansi to Planet Baobab

    9 de marzo de 2022, Botsuana ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    We were all awake by 5am with the birds. As usual I was first up and really wish Pieter would show me where the stuff was to boil the kettle and make coffee so I could just get in with it rather than wait 2 hours for everyone else.
    As everyone else was still in bed I grabbed my camera and took some pictures of the woodpecker that visited our camp every day, Then I checked the camera traps and to everyone’s surprise we had been visited by an elephant and a hyena in the middle of the night, and nobody had seen or heard anything.
    After coffee we all packed up and then hit the road heading for Maun.It would be an 80km drive on nothing but dirt roads doing a game safari outside of a national park.
    We set off around 9am and the first 40km were pretty quiet as we expected but also slow with a top speed of 30kph then at 1pm we stopped for breakfast/lunch and as we ate a huge black cloud started forming. By the end of lunch at around 1:30pm, the rain had started and it got heavier and heavier, the roads turned from sand and clay into a boggy mess and then into a river. It was quiet scary and we lost sight of the road several times as Caren the car sunk up to the windscreen.
    About 90 minutes down the road as the rain eased a little the car started to make a scraping sound so Pieter and I jumped out and realised that the fuel tank protector had been pulled away from it’s mountings by the water.
    To fix it we needed to get under the car, and it was still raining and the road was also 2 inches deep in running water. To get underneath I decided to strip down to just my boxers leaving my dry clothes in the car and then dived under the car in the freezing, gravel soaked water.
    We managed to push the protective cover back up but we knew it wouldn’t hold without a bolt, which we didn’t have, and there was nothing to cable tie it to. So we made the best of a bad job and then I stripped completely naked before jumping in the car and putting my dry clothes back on.
    The rain continued for hours. We found a baby terrapin in one of the puddles it was so bad, then we saw a tower of giraffes with 3 babies and finally, with the rain still coming down we got to the campsite of Planet Baobab.
    4 days ago we all had the chance to do laundry but we checked to see if we should and Pieter said no, we’ll be able to do it here, there will also be electric WiFi and food served.
    It had rained all day so you can image how pissed off we were when we realised we had to sleep on flooded campgrounds. There was no argument in that, we certainly didn’t have a choice and if there had been one, Ellie, Myself and Becky would have chosen somewhere else, but being good sports we just went along with it. Then, on opening the trailer with all our bags and clothes in we realised it had Been flooded and all our clothes were soaked and so was Becky’s mattress. And then we found out we had no electric at the site we had paid for, and there was no WiFi.
    I was really annoyed, and what was Pieter going to do about it? Have a shower......,
    Now I was more annoyed, but we set up the 2 tents under a bbq shelter so hopefully they won’t get any wetter, and fortunately Ellie had her blow up mattress so Becky borrowed that.
    We had dinner in the restaurant, which somehow Ellie and I ended up paying for so now Ellie is annoyed aswell but on the way back from dinner we found an African Pygmy Hedgehog and that cheered everyone up. I’m really hoping the sun is going to be shining tomorrow and everyone will be in a better mood. Now you can see why people in the UK are so miserable all the time.
    At 10pm we all went to bed, it’s still thundering and raining.
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  • Planet Baobab to Elephant Sands

    10 de marzo de 2022, Botsuana ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After a rainy day yesterday, we managed to sleep dry under the bbq shelters of our campsite. We were all up early, had hot showers and when we came out of the bathrooms the sun was shining and our bags and clothes took no time to dry hanging outside. Luckily we were in no hurry to leave as we only had a short 200km drive to our next camp.
    We left around 10am, stopped en route at the choppies supermarket where I spoke to the military guys about where we had been in our Toyota Fortuner and they were impressed about how far and where we had been and still not needed the winch.
    Then it was back in the road in the 30°c heat to our resting place for the next couple of days.Elephant Sands.
    This camp was going to be one of the highlights of the trip and as soon as we got there we could see why. Elephants were everywhere drinking from a huge watering hole and we pitched our tents right in front and had a panoramic ringside view. It is an amazing place and the only thing separating us from the elephants is a line of small stones.
    Once pitched we all threw on our swimming gear and went over to the pool, bar and restaurant area, grabbed a cool beer and went for a swim with the elephants right in front of us, it’s an unbelievable feeling being so close.
    The funny thing is elephants make absolutely no noise. They can walk past you silently, like they are on tip toe’s and until they are on top of you you’d never know they were there.
    After a long cooling swim we went back to camp, had a few more drinks and Pieter made us his fillet steak with mashed potatoes and truffles for dinner and it was amazing. Just after dinner we saw impala racing across the campsite the other side of the watering hole and just as they went out of sight some campers at the other end of the field started shouting “Wilddogs,Wilddogs!!”and there they were, a whole pack of 10-15 Wilddogs chasing down the impala looking for a meal, but then they saw us. And for all us onlookers the Wilddogs stopped 50 meters away and stared at us and everyone with a camera, including me got the best photos of Wilddogs. We couldn’t believe how lucky we were.
    The rest of the evening we sat around the fire watching huge elephants walk in and out of camp and as it got darker the huge looming shadows of elephants stopped right in front of us, lifting there trunks to sniff and check us out, at one point there were 2 that looked like they might charge at us but then a big older male came over and stood in front of them protecting us and telling the younger males that we were no threat. It was the most amazing evening, and as we all climbed in our tents we could hear elephants walking past until the early hours of the morning.
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  • One Last day at Elephant Sands

    11 de marzo de 2022, Botsuana ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Waking up at 5am the sky was a blazing orange and as we unzipped our tent to watch the sunrise, we realised everyone else was up at there tent doors aswell. It was a spectacular display of nature first thing in the morning and once the sun had risen above the safari cabins we all headed down to the restaurant for our buffet breakfast. Most of us chose the full English, Atleast England is good for something.
    For the rest of the day we just chilled out. There were charging stations by the bar and free WiFi so at some point during the rest of the morning we all sat there and caught up with our social media and emails.
    After a tuna salad which Hilda made for lunch we soaked in the pool, Ellie went to catch up on some sleep and the rest of us had gin and tonics and some beers whilst watching the elephants come to the watering hole. At one point we had 14 animals all making a semi circle around the outside of the watering hole, and then the lodge owners came to the bar area with 3 baby mongoose they had rescued and we all got to play with them and give them a cuddle. They are remarkably like ferrets.
    At 5pm Pieter went off to make the camp fire and start dinner and an hour later the rest of us joined him, all the vegetables were prepped and in a crockpot and he put the vegetable curry in the fire and 2 hours later it was ready.
    While we ate our curry and rice 2 big male elephants were fighting with each other not 50 meters in front of us, it was amazing and possibly a once in a lifetime experience.
    After dinner we all went back to the restaurant and sat around the open fire pit with elephants right in front of us and I positioned everyone around the fire and set my camera up and got an awesome shot of the campfire with everyone looking across the waterhole and a huge elephant staring back at us in the dark.
    Then it was back to camp and into our tents for bed, whilst yet more elephants passed by the fronts of our tents.
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  • Chobe

    12 de marzo de 2022, Botsuana ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    This morning we watched a blazing orange sunrise again whilst the impala’s ducked and dived under the safari tents eating the grass and keeping a lookout for predators. We skipped breakfast, had a quick coffee and by 8am we had all our camping gear stowed away and we were in the road.
    It was just a short 280km drive today and there are only 2 roads. Besides there official A numbers, the first road is called the elephants highway and the second road is call the wildlife corridor, and we found out why.
    Driving down the Elephants highway we saw numerous elephants at the side and crossing the road, then we saw a black mamba snake and a tortoise on then road.
    Just as we joined the road called the wildlife corridor, Pieter with his unbelievable eyesight spotted a chameleon in the road so we stopped to rescue it from being run over. Ellie named it Pascal, and Pieter said it would be better off coming with us as it’s a protected area and he joined our road trip for the next leg of our journey.
    We stopped at the Spar supermarket just before reaching our destination and got food for the night and lunch, luckily Pascal stayed in the car as we found a wild warthog drinking water from a dog bowl in the main square and Pieter said that this time last year a pack of Lions caught an impala outside the Spar and the police had to cordon off the town while they ate it.
    From there it was a short 10 minute drive to our final destination, Chobe Safari lodge.
    After checking in at reception, we found a camping spot deep in the woods about 50 yards away from the crocodile infested river.As we set up camp a young bushbuck and her baby came over and it happened to be one that Pieter had rescued from a snare a couple of years ago. She didn’t recognise him at first but once he sparked up a joint the smell of cannabis seemed to do the trick and she came right up to us and Ellie even got a kiss.
    Then we listed all our clothes and put them in bin bags ready to hand them in to the laundry girls tomorrow, everyone is down to there last pieces of clothing, and I think underwear has already been used atleast twice. So we spent the rest of the day in our swimwear around the pool with some drinks before coming back to camp and watching an amazing sunset over the river. Then it was dinner time and Pieter cooked us all rump steaks, which isn’t as good as the fillet but it was still amazing and I got most of it with the cheesy mushrooms. Then after a couple of beers it was time to try and sleep with all the animals cawing, and screeching around us.
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  • Chobe National Park Game Drive

    13 de marzo de 2022, Botsuana ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This morning we were all up before sunrise. It was one of our final game drive days so today we were all hoping to see one of the big cats up close.
    We dropped our washing off off at the reception of the lodge at 7am, then headed about 1km down the road to Chobe National Park and after checking all our details with the security lodge we hit the dirt tracks and started exploring.
    Within 500 meters we came across a group of atleast 100 impala’s, we had to drive so slowly because they were on the dirt road and just gently moved to the side as we edged our way through, then we came across warthog with babies and then fish eagles just resting on branches.
    We came to a junction and took the right hand turning which took us along the edges of the River Chobe, almost straight away we saw hippos. Hundreds of them and these ones were very active and we all got great photos. We passed through groups of thousand’s of impala, and then we came to elephants. There were also hundreds of all sizes and ages including 2 really small babies.
    We stopped for a late breakfast, and made some rolls and rice crackers and the monkeys came to us straight away and Pieter spent most of the time chasing them with a rubber snake which was hilarious. The monkeys ended up looking very sad.
    Then it was back to the dirt roads and we found a black backed Jackel eating a fresh kill of warthog, infact only the head was left so we knew the jackel hadn’t killed it and he looked very nervous and kept looking up ready to run, the only thing that could have killed that warthog was lions. The hunt began.
    After an hour of driving around in the blazing hot sun with all the windows open, we were all cooking up and were about to give up when we came across another car and they told us if some lions down on the river road where we had been this morning.
    Back we went, passing giraffes, huge elephants, hippos and thousands more impalas. We drove and drove and finally we found a huge male lion resting under a tree. At first he was just sitting there, panting hard and looking hot. We edged closer and closer and when we were within 15 feet of him, the lion relaxed and fell asleep with us right next to him. We could actually hear him breathing and see the grass blades moving as he breathed out, every now and then his tail would swish. We sat with him for an hour completely alone.
    Finally we had done it, we had found a big cat. And he was a really big cat, our trip was complete but not over because of course when we get home and people ask where did you go? And we say Africa, they will ask “Did you see any lions?”.
    It was now 3pm in the afternoon and we were miles into the national park and it was time to head back. Once again we drove through thousands of impala’s, passed the hippos, saw a few dozen giraffes and passed some angry elephants and even found a heard of Sable, which are super rare and just after 6pm we finally drove out of the gates.
    It had been an amazing day for animal sightings.
    We collected our washing from reception and couldn’t believe the price. Mine,Ellies and Becky’s washing came to £7.50. Finally we had clean clothes and after watching the sunset with a beer in hand we all showered and put in clean clothes and headed out to an Indian restaurant Pieter had recommended and we had an amazing meal and a few more drinks reminiscing about the animals we had seen today.
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  • A Day Of Relaxation

    14 de marzo de 2022, Botsuana ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    There was no need for an early start this morning but I was still up before everyone else making a pot of coffee. Today should have been our visit to Victoria falls but the covid tests were $75 each then there was the border crossing money plus the $30 to get in to the falls so we all decided that was to pricey and now we had a spare day.
    We chilled for a few hours in the morning, went to the reception and caught up on our emails and social media and then at 11am we went back to camp for a breakfast of steak, sausage, beans and eggs all cooked on an open fire.
    After breakfast we headed out if the lodge and down the main road to visit some of the small market stalls. There were lots with hand carved wood objects and after much deliberation and haggling Ellie and I bought a carved figure of a man holding a shoe in one hand and a bottle of wine in the other, he really looks like he’s down on his luck but he has a beautiful face. I dread to think how we’re going to get him home, he weighs a tonne.
    At 2pm Pieter, myself and Hilda went on a game drive again while Ellie and Becky went on a boat safari.
    Today we clipped the go pro on the front of the bonnet which was a bonus because we first got charged by a buffalo and then we got charged by an elephant and we also got 2 trumpets from them.
    We stayed in the park until sunset and left around 6:45pm it had been an eventful afternoon, hundreds of elephants and impala’s, nothing new today but I definitely wouldn’t take this view for granted.
    From the game drive we headed straight for camp, it was now dark and Ellie and Becky were already there waiting for us so we decided to skip the cooking and head back to the Indian restaurant we ate at last night. Once again it was a great meal all the better for being washed down with ice cold beer. We headed back to camp. It was a warm sticky evening with 85% humidity, I had a cold shower but that didn’t really help. We were all going to struggle to sleep tonight.
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  • The Wildest Night On Hunters Road

    15 de marzo de 2022, Botsuana ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    At 5:30am after a very hot and sticky night, we gave up trying to sleep. I made the coffee and gradually everyone came to the table to get breakfast.
    By 8am all the tents and camping gear had been packed away and just before we left the Bushbuck, Snookiepoo, came to say goodbye with her baby and we all got a cuddle.
    In the car we done a final shop at the Spar to get extra water and meat for dinner and then we hit the road, it’s not far to our next destination but we’re not sure if we can even get there.
    Hunters Road is one of our final completely wild camping spots. This place is so remote it’s not labelled on any maps and takes you deep into the Botswana wilderness thousands of kilometres away from civilisation.
    90 minutes of driving bought us to a very overgrown and muddy dirt track, we turned off the tarmac, engaged four wheel drive and pushed on. The grass must have been six foot high in places and there was no way of telling if we were on a track or not, then as we came to the Zambian border a huge tree had come down and the road got wet and muddy. This was the point of no return and rather than risk getting stranded out here for days we turned around and headed back for the road.
    All was not lost however as Pieter said he knew of a sand road that cuts into this road and after another 20 mins of driving we found it.
    Again we engaged four wheel drive and 10 mins into the track the girls decided to get in the roof and we pushed on. Kilometre after kilometre we went, driving further and further away from humans. We drove passed warthog, impala and steenbucks and saw elephants ahead of but still we pushed on.
    It took us nearly 2 hours to do the 36 kilometres to get there, but finally we found a camping spot next to a huge watering hole in the most remote part of Botswana there is.
    We pitched up, found firewood on the ground that the elephants had broken off, made a fire to keep away the buffalo and predators and set our camera traps around the watering hole. Then as the fire got bigger and the sun started to set, Pieter started cooking steamed vegetables and fillet steak on the open fire. It was an amazing meal.
    By 8pm we were all tired from watching the Botswanian television, also known as the fire and we turned into our tents for the night.
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  • The Road To Hell - Kutu Island

    16 de marzo de 2022, Botsuana ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    By 8am we were all packed and ready to go. Nothing was caught on the camera traps except ellie’s butt when she went to the toilet, and except for what we passed on the way up hunters road we didn’t see anything, I was gutted as this was the perfect spot.
    The plan for today was to head to Nata, do our final shopping trip and then head to Nata Bird Sanctuary campsite, and see the birds on the salt flats.
    We reached Nata about midday which was pretty good going and we filled up with fuel, did the shopping and we were supposed to eat at a little restaurant but it was closed and that’s when the day went pear shaped.
    There was no back up plan for eating and we started driving again, leaving Nata and heading north before finally turning onto a dirt road and heading out towards the salt pans. I was desperate to see water on the pans because it creates a mirror but we were all also hungry and now didn’t have a clue where we were going.
    Another hour went past, and then the trees and bushes got slightly more scarce and Pieter said that it looks like the salt pans are covered in grass. I’m not sure how that happened because nothing grows in salt but we still didn’t say anything. Another hour went past and then it became apparent that Pieter and Hilda were actually looking for the roof of there Land Rover they had to leave behind when they got stuck out on the salt pans 4 years ago. Another 30 mins went by and then they saw the roof about 2 kilometres off to the distance with binoculars on our left and they seemed amused it was still there. Still we carried on driving, at a steady speed of 15kph.We were going nowhere fast but we in the back still didn’t know where we were going anyway. In the end, Ellie piped up and asked and Pieter said we were going to try and get to Kutu island. This was new news to us in the rear seats, so what’s going to be there?
    An amazing view, a campsite, and a spectacular view of the salt flats which are apparently covered in grass.
    Still we kept on driving. Passing small settlements, tiny farmsteads and another hour in we stopped at a farm to check that we could carry on and to our amazement we could carry on but we also picked up 2 passengers from the farm. One in the front seat and one on the roof, so Hilda squeezed in the back with me and Ellie and off we went with our new passenger giving us directions. We drove on the track, then off the track through long grass and scrubland and onto another track, then left that track cut through some more scrubland and found another track and then we dropped our 2 passengers off with the directions of “when you get to the boabab tree, just go straight “.
    Still we kept driving. 90km into the dirt tracks, through gates, passed more tiny houses and finally after 8 hours we arrived at Kutu island.
    The campsite is completely abandoned, looking around the disheveled guest lodge it looks like nobody has been here since 2017 but Pieter was super pleased we have the place to ourselves and the campsites are still in place albeit they are on a rocky outcropping, and finally we were at the salt flats which don’t have grass in them because nothing grows in salt but there isn’t any water so no reflections.
    It was now 5pm in the afternoon, it had been a very long day of driving for not a lot of gain. We did some exploring and the vastness of the area is impressive but there is nothing here to see, infact from horizon to horizon there is absolutely nothing. I was really disappointed, and a little annoyed that we hadn’t stopped back in Nata.
    We lit a fire, the wind started picking up and as we had dinner a storm system developed all around us encircling the rocky outcropping we were camped on and at 9pm just as we went to bed, the wind and the rain started, if there is a hell it can’t be far off this baron landscape.
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  • The Road From Hell

    17 de marzo de 2022, Botsuana ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    It rained and rained, the wind got up and all night the tents were flapping around letting water in and I just gave up trying to sleep at 3am and sat in the tent on my wet pillow with the soggy tent side smacking me in the head every time the wind gusted. It was a horrendous night, but the saving grace was, that everyone else had, had a bad night to.
    At 5:30am with daylight now forming through the dreary grey skies I was up in shorts and a T-shirt in the rain trying to make coffee and looking for a dry place to drink it but there wasn’t one. Fortunately, by 7am with everyone soaked through except for Becky who seems to live with her raincoat the rain slowed to a drizzle. All Ellie and I wanted to do was pack up and go and get to our next campsite early so we could set up and dry things out but Pieter had other ideas, because due to the all the rain we had, had getting off the Island was going to be a problem because now the sand and salt we drove over to get here was super soft. So soft we couldn’t even walk on it without sinking, and Pieter wanted to wait a few hours for it to dry out but obviously it was never going to dry out with it still drizzling but then he decided to fix the puncture con the trailer we had, had for the last four days.
    By 9am I said let’s make a plan to get off of this hell hole, so we looked at the map. With Pieter and I discussing it the plan was to head south back across the 100 meters of pan we had crossed to get here and then head west to Francistown to get our covid tests done to cross the border tomorrow back into South Africa.
    An hour later we set off. Pieter set the Sat Nav for Francistown and then we proceeded to drive on various tracks trying to get off the island, I kept saying what was wrong with going back across the small strip of pan we had crossed and Pieter said this was the way but I knew it wasn’t because when we arrived the island was con our right, and now we were leaving and the island was on our right again.
    There was no convincing him to turn back and before we knew it the four wheel drive was engaged as we left solid ground and hit the salt flats. This was the point of no return. We would have to keep going flat out for as long as the salt flat lasted and that was way over the horizon.
    Almost straight away the car started to lose traction sliding sideways with the trailer on the back and Becky was now screaming in the back, Pieter changed gear, engaged the differential and ploughed on deeper and deeper into the wet soggy mud with the car snaking all the way and there were so many beeps and lights flashing the car thought it was Christmas. Becky threw herself over the back car seat to sit between me and ellie who held her hand to comfort her but she was having no comfort and was completely hysterical, asking us to stop or slow down because we were going to crash. Into what? I don’t know because there’s here. Deep water approached and Pieter ploughed on, you could feel the car getting bogged down as the water covered the windscreen and the roof. The trailer was completely submerged. The snorkel earn’t it’s money today and still we pushed on. Kilometre after kilometre with no end in sight and the car slid and snaked all the way and Becky cried all the way.
    In the end it was 14km of wet and sloppy clay and salt with us disappearing under water multiple times and although the rest of us thought it was fun, although slightly worried we might get stuck. Becky was shaking because she was terrified and it took her hours to calm down
    We finally got to more solid ground at 12pm and then Caren the car started making noises and stopped turning left. I jumped out and walked backwards in front of the car to identify problem and as I did there was a loud bang as the left front CV joint completely sheared away from the gearbox.
    Pieter looked at it and said we’d be fine but now we were down to 2 wheel drive and we were definitely going to have to drive a lot slower if we wanted the front wheel to stay on.
    Another hour later we hit the tarmac roads and Caren the car was limping along at a maximum of 80kph and we had 250 kilometres to go, once again we were in for a long day in the car. I gave Pieter the directions to Francistown but that went completely out the window once again as he said he would rather head to Serowe to get the covid tests as it would be easier. We stopped on route in a little town but Pieter suggested we should push on to the next town as we can eat there. Little did we know, the next town was Serowe which was 150km away and at 5pm we arrived. I was now starving as I hadn’t eaten all day but luckily so was Pieter and after waiting for 45 minutes for a covid test we finally sat down in the hungry lion for a chicken burger and chips and then Pieter said he was going to cook dinner at the campsite.
    At 6:30pm we arrived at the Khama Rhino Sanctuary, it was dusk we were all tired and the day stopped being fun hours ago. We were all dreading our rucksacks being drenched but the trailer was remarkably dry and so were the tents which was something were all grateful for. We had no electric but when I searched for the toilets I found hot showers and two plug outlets and took over the power banks to charge things up. This camp wasn’t to bad after all.
    At 8pm we were sitting around the fire having drinks and the reason for our trip became apparent when Hilda and Pieter were friendly arguing about getting to the island and driving completely across the pans without getting stuck and Pieter thought it was Wednesday not Thursday.
    We had lost 2 days driving to the middle of nowhere to see nothing. Broken the car, missed the bird sanctuary and tomorrow we would still have to drive for 7 hours at a pace we’re not sure the car will cope with to get across the border and back to Pilanesberg national park for hour final nights sleep and it was all completely unnecessary. The last 2 days had left a bad vibe in the car but myself, Ellie and Becky were trying hard not to let it spoil the last couple of days.
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