Our African Adventure

February - March 2022
Follow us as we embark on our most exciting adventure yet, driving and free camping through the African deserts and game reserves Read more
  • 27footprints
  • 3countries
  • 26days
  • 252photos
  • 10videos
  • 15.2kmiles
  • 11.2kmiles
  • Day 1

    Next stop Africa

    February 23, 2022 in England ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    We left home a little before midday, taking the slow and arduous journey back to Chelmsford. Our first stop was Ellies mum and dads house for a nice lunch and a car swap.
    We charged our electrical items one last time, tested the go pro and had a final check of our baggage and then Ellies dad drove us to Heathrow, traffic was heavy but it generally flowed quite well and we made good time.
    We dropped our bags at check in straight away, proved our covid tests and then proceeded through security. For some reason the scanners didn’t like Ellie this time and we got held up 10 minutes while they ran a handheld scanner over Ellie and then we had to have our bags searched. But eventually we got through.
    Next stop Africa!!
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  • Day 2

    Arriving in Johannesburg

    February 24, 2022 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After a ten and a half hour flight we touched down in Johannesburg airport at 8:30am South African time. Getting through security was super easy. Hand over our covid certificate, show our passports and walk straight through. It was our fastest security check ever.
    After collecting our bags we proceeded out of the airport to the taxi lot and once there we contacted our hotel via WhatsApp. Once again this was super easy and within 15 minutes our airport driver was there to collect us. He was a nice guy and gave us a short South African history lesson on the short 5 minute drive to the hotel.
    Our hotel is the Aero guest lodge in kempton park, it’s a very small place with only 6 small lodges but it’s clean, tidy and has a pool for us to relax by and the room is big enough that we don’t feel claustrophobic. We’re only going to be here for 24 hours so we just need a bed and a shower, anything else is a bonus.
    We were both really tired after the flight and although I did get a little sleep on the flight, Ellie didn’t get any atall so I had a quick dip in the swimming pool and had a cheeky beer, while Ellie had a tea and then we had a sleep for a couple of hours.
    We couldn’t go anywhere I’m even if we wanted to, Johannesburg is currently the murder capital and car jacking capital of the world and if those statistics didn’t put you off there was a local guy sentenced last week for nearly decapitating his girlfriend. On top of that, this particular hotel is in the heart of the red light district and they were advertising in the streets on the way in, but not to worry. Nobody can get to us because we are behind an 8 foot wall topped with an electric fence and huge electric security gates.
    Yes, it does feel like we are staying in Pablo Escobars prison but, it’s calm this of the wall and we’ve just got to stick it out for 24 hours.
    This evening we ordered a take out which of course was delivered and we had dinner with our airport driver and later we were joined by a German man and his 18 year old daughter, Lilly, who is trying to be a tour guide. The German man actually owns his own safari camp in Zambia so we spent a good couple of hours picking his brains on where to go and what to do.
    Tomorrow, all being well Pieter and Hilde will meet up with us a our African Adventure will really begin.
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  • Day 3

    Our first night wild camping

    February 25, 2022 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    After a very bad nights sleep I woke up at 6:30am and Ellie woke up at around 8am. The people in the chalet next door to us must have been deaf, because there TV was up so load we could clearly hear it in our room. To top it off our room just got hotter and hotter and by 1:30am I gave up trying to sleep and went an sat out by the swimming 25 meters from our room and I could still hear next doors TV. The planes landing and taking off also didn’t help and although they did stop big planes at 1am, at 6:30sm on the dot they were coming back in.
    At 8:30am we went for a cooked breakfast of Bacon, eggs and chips and then had a shower and sorted our stuff out for leaving.
    Pieter and Hilda were supposed to pick us up from our guest lodge between 11 and 12 but by 1pm they hadn’t arrived and slight panic set in, but at 2pm just before the heavens opened they arrived and we loaded up his Toyota Land Cruiser and trailer and off we went. Unbeknown to us another guest had booked to come on our trip 2 days ago an American girl called Becky. So off we went to a different airport to collect her.
    On the way there was a mega thunderstorm and it even blocked the sun out it was so dark and heavy with rain. It took us 2 hours to get to the airport and it should have taken us 30 minutes, but eventually we picked Becky up and we are now a group of 5. Pieter who is native South African, Hilda, from Norway, Becky from New York and us from the UK. All we have in common is adventure.
    Our first stop and first camp is Pilingsberg National Park, and after once again driving through mega thunderstorms we arrived at around 5pm. At the entrance we were greeted by hundreds of impala’s and after Pieter checked us in, he drove us straight to our first camp spot.
    It is a designated camping area and although there are other campers here we feel pretty isolated. There’s even 2 motorhomes just like Wanda. We all unloaded the trailer and Pieter gave us all our tents and camping gear and each of set to work putting the tents up and then putting in the bedding and lights, whoever was finished first went in to help the next person. While Pieter sorted out the fire and food and got the drinks flowing. Already we are becoming a little team. Pieter cooked a lovely meal of South African sausage, with corn on the cob and salad on an open fire and then we all sat around the fire talking talking before finally calling it a day and crawling into our tents at 9:30pm.
    This is it, Our first night wild camping in a tent in Africa!!
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  • Day 4

    Pilansberg Game Reserve

    February 26, 2022 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    This morning we were all up bright and early. Hilda was up first at 5:15am and I was a close second at 5:30am. While Hilda was doing yoga I was doing press ups waking ourselves up nicely. Ellie was next out of Bed and then Pieter who got fresh coffee and some breakfast cereals on the go and finally Becky was up at around 6:15am.
    By 7am we were all ready, and we set off for the gates and entered pilansberg National park. I had high hopes of seeing a leopard on entry and had 2 cameras and the go pro ready but unfortunately the universe had other ideas.
    Within 30 minutes it started raining, and came over very black and then thunder and lightning started. It wasn’t very heavy but with none of the animals want to get wet so everything except a few birds and a random Elephant miles in the distance was in hiding.
    Our first stop of the day was a watering hole and although there were no big animals we did see Pied Kingfishers close up and got some beautiful shots, then on leaving there we saw Hippos just surfacing from a lake.
    Our second stop was for a quick coffee at the guest lodge and we took that with us and got back on the hunt. Next on the list was a giraffe, then a few Zebra and the rain was now starting to clear so Pieter thought it would be a good idea to stop for lunch for an hour or so and then try again.
    We had a picnic, and the girls threw together a mixed bean salad with some ham and some rolls and we sat there for an hour hand feeding a small Guinea Fowl while the sun eventually came out and started to cook us.
    Within 15 minutes it went from 19°c to 33°c and we set back off exploring with the air con blasting.
    As we turned the first corner from our picnic spot, we saw wilder beasts with babies, Zebra with babies and warthog with babies. It was an amazing sight and Pieter turned the engine off and we sat there for 20 minutes with the animals right in front of us.
    From there we drove in and less than a kilometre later we ran into a heard of atleast 20 elephants and they had several babies with them too. We sat there for ages as 2 young males started to play fight and then they all crossed the road right in front of us. As we turned the next corner there were 2 White Rhino right in front of us. Today has been an incredible day.
    Our last stop of the day was another huge watering hole and this time we had hippos across the other side, we could only just see them but a big male kept on popping his head up and yawning and Ellie was determined to get a picture. Eventually she did get an amazing shot.
    Then at 6:30pm it was back to camp.
    No we hadn’t seen any big cats but I think the elephants and rhino made up for it and we still have a long way to travel yet.
    Back at camp, Pieter cooked us a wonderful meal of marinated pork, with steamed vegetables and cheesy mushrooms with herbs. It was a stunning meal cooked completely and perfectly on an open fire.
    We shared some drinks and some stories around the fire again before heading for bed at 10pm. Tomorrow we have a big drive ahead of us.
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  • Day 5

    The 800km Drive

    February 27, 2022 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    This morning everyone was up at 5:30am, we had breakfast early with a couple of extra strong coffees and then packed up our tents. Today is moving day and we have a huge drive ahead of us.
    Pieter said ideally he’d like to be packed and ready to leave by 8am, but by 7:30am we were already on the road.
    We had a choice of driving a direct 800km drive to our next destination or stopping at 1 of 2 camping lodges Pieter already knew. We decided to go for the whole drive and every couple of hours Pieter would stop and check that we were ok and asked if we wanted to carry on.
    Apart from the towns we passed through there was absolutely nothing except a long straight road and I do mean long. Once we got away from all civilisation there was nothing but green fields and the odd small bush for about 300km. It was the most boring road, and drive ever. To top it off there is no radio in the car, and despite us checking before leaving the UK, there is also no real way of charging anything like phones or batteries. If we have electric we do have an extension lead but last night we had no power and Pieter said we could charge stuff in the car. However the car only has one working usb and there’s 5 of us. I’m beginning to realise that Pieter is a fly by the seat of his pants kind of guy, that likes to drink a lot and smoke dope, I wouldn’t say he’s disorganised but this is definitely his trip and we are just along for the ride.
    We drove and drove, through small towns stopping if we needed to stretch our legs or needed the toilet and then went on again and to make things worse the outside temperature reached a whopping 41°c .11 solid hours of driving, Pieter is a machine when it comes to the road, and eventually we ended up at our destination at 6:30pm.
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  • Day 5

    Augrabies Falls National Park

    February 27, 2022 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    Augrabies falls national park. As we got there so late Pieter wanted to take us straight to the falls for sunset and we arrived just in time.
    There are 2 falls, one quite small and one is huge and absolutely raging but there are 3 different platforms to view them and just as we got there the sky turned pink and then purple and we all got some amazing shots.
    Then it was back to camp to pitch the tents while Pieter made dinner and just as it got dark a swarm of locusts infested the camp site.
    Dinner was chicken, deep filled cheesy mushrooms and spinach, it was an incredible meal once again cooked on an open fire and as we ate dinner we watched a storm blow in.
    By 10pm, the storm had broken overhead, there isn’t a lot of rain but there is a terrific amount of thunder and lightning and the outside temperature is still in the 30’s. And the locusts and trying to get in our tents, sleeping is going to a nightmare but there is something quite exciting about sleeping in tent with a huge electrical storm overhead.
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  • Day 6

    Sun dried Raisins in the Kalahari

    February 28, 2022 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 36 °C

    This morning we got up super early at 5am and made our way back down to the viewpoint over the falls.
    We watched an amazing sunrise and on the way back to camp we saw Hyraxes, baboons and a yellow mongoose.
    After coffee and breakfast we packed up camp and made our way to the town of Upminster where we did the shopping for the next 4-5 days. We will be heading north in the next day or so and will be completely off grid wild camping.
    After shopping we had to go to another shop because the Spar we went to didn’t have everything and then we went to a restaurant called DROS for lunch, once there we all ordered off the breakfast menu but it took an hour to come out. Pieter was just about to tell them we were leaving and then the food appeared.
    That put us back by 2 hours but today was all about getting to the next camp spot, and if there was anything left in the day we would go looking for animals but tomorrow was going to be a full day.
    We have driven hundreds of miles across the Khalahari Desert but you wouldn’t know it because it has been the wet season and there are grasses on what would be desert, this is where there are thousands of grapevines used for making wine and drying the grapes to make raisins.
    2 hours later and at 4pm we arrived in Kgalagadi National Park. And it is right on the Botswana border. Infact we had to go through customs to go into the park because if you turn left you stay in South Africa but if you turn right your in Botswana.
    We found a beautiful camp spot, and I have to say I’m impressed by the standards of the facilities. There have been nice toilets and showers at every camp we have visited and Pilinsberg even had baths. It puts camp sights in the UK to shame.
    At camp we basically just ditched the trailer and went stray on a game drive before it was to late and we were thankful that we did.
    First off we saw Ibox, with 2 young. Then we saw ground squirrels, then we saw a Bat eared fox thanks to Ellies keen eyesight, and then a couple of mongoose, not to mention the huge weaver birds nests that we found.
    In the distance we saw a huge Supercell forming and slowly starting to turn in the sky, it was just as incredible as seeing the animals and as were leaving the park at sunset the Cell turned a pinky purple colour and we could see the rain falling from it’s base.
    Back at camp we sorted out the tents, made camp and had drinks. It got to 37°c today and the air conditioning in the car has been playing up so we decided to name the car Caren, with a C, because she is temperamental.
    Pieter cooked us Beef Patties with rice and vegetables for dinner and we were watched by an Eagle owl who decided to join the campground for a while, once again it was a great meal, cooked to perfection on an open fire.
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  • Day 7

    Random Strangers in the Kalahari

    March 1, 2022 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    Today was an amazing day. We were up first thing at 5am brewing coffee and sorting breakfast. I actually thought we were leaving camp really early but it turned out to be a little later than expected, but by 7:30am we were back through the park gates and game hunting across the kalahari.
    Within the first 5 minutes of driving we saw the back end of a caracol disappearing into the long grass, then we saw wilderbeast, orax and springbock by a shallow watering hole.
    From there we headed to a picnic area where your actually allowed out of your car, and we had some snacks and used the toilets before moving on.
    Moving up we saw numerous falcons and got a chance to photograph the social weaver birds nests, and then we saw a secretary bird killing something on the ground. Mongoose, and ground squirrel were next followed by more birds, and then an American lady passed us and stopped us and asked if we had seen the cheetah and the lions back the way we had come. Obviously we hadn’t so we spun Caren around and headed back for camp.
    Sure enough 20 minutes later we found 2 Cheetah sleeping under a tree and although they were a little way off, we could see them with the camera’s.
    From there we headed straight back to camp, the temperature was now 38°c and the animals were starting to find shade and lay down. When we got back we all got changed into our swimming gear and Pieter and Hilda went up to the pool while the rest of sorted our clothes out to follow shortly. Ellie went to get changed in the toilets and I sat down talking to Becky, then when Ellie returned Becky said for us to go on because she might be a while and I thought she went to her tent.
    Just as Ellie and I were about to leave a huge gust of wind picked up Becky’s tent and blew it through the campsite. We both took off after it and every time we got close the wind would take it further and as it rolled upside down I saw a lump bouncing around which I presumed was Becky.
    Fortunately Becky was actually in the toilets getting changed and she couldn’t believe we had, had a mini tornado in the the 2 minutes she had been away.
    The pool water was seriously refreshing in the 40°c heat and as we were talking about lunch the American lady who had told us about the Cheetah cam to find us.
    Apparently her husband had to work at 2pm so would we like to split up, and some of us drive her car and take her on a game drive later, I said yes straight away but when she left we decided Pieter would drive her car and I would drive Caren, but in the end I let Becky drive.
    At 4pm, we went to chalet 4 where we picked Jennifer up and she had provided a cooler box of champagne, wine and beer with cheese and biscuits it was quite something, and with beer in hand we took off across the Kalahari. Becky drove, and from the outset the three of us were having a serious laugh and exchanging funny stories. At 5:30pm we stopped at a different picnic area where we all had a beer except for Becky, who as designated driver got a half bottle of opened champagne to swig from the bottle on our return journey. On the return journey we saw Meerkats.
    Back at Jennifer’s chalet we were reintroduced to her husband David, and then spent 2 hours with them talking and exchanging stories. Jennifer is a real character, from Colorado and has stories to turn your hair white.
    Back at camp at 8pm Pieter cooked us dinner of tomato and mushroom pasta and we finished the half bottle of champagne that Becky didn’t want.
    This was the most random day ever, but we’ve made a new, if not eccentric friend and I can honestly say this was one of the best road trip days ever.
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  • Day 8

    Botswana Here We Come

    March 2, 2022 in Botswana ⋅ 🌙 32 °C

    This morning we were all up bright and early at 6am. First we had a coffee and just after 7am we jumped into the car and headed off on a game drive.
    This mornings sighting’s were amazing, first we saw 2 black back Jackal sleeping on the plain and one got up and walked off, then we saw 2 more walking down the road and we were right next to them in the car to get pictures, then we saw a pack of 5 walking across the plains hunting.
    From there we saw a male and female ostrich with 5 babies, and to top it off we saw 4 cheetah’s on a ridge sunbathing and then they took off hunting.
    From there we turned Caren around, who had now developed a squeak, and headed back for camp for a small breakfast of scrambled eggs and fruit, before packing up camp.
    Today is moving day and we’re not just moving camp we’re moving country, this will be our first ever land border crossing and all fruit and fresh produce has to be used or disposed of.
    Finally at 12pm we set off heading for Botswana. We passed through tiny little villages while the sun got up to it’s full strength of 37°c today and then Caren the car through a wobbly and decided to stop the air conditioning, luckily just as it became swelteringly hot the air con would kick back in and that happened for the rest of the journey, hot for a while, cold for a while.
    Just after 2 we arrived at the Botswana Border, and after completing our covid checks with a dyslexic nurse we were on our way, out of South Africa and into Botswana.
    Almost immediately you could see the difference in the countries driving down the road that on the border separating the 2 countries. South Africa was Lush and green after a good wet season and in the other side was orange sand and hardly any vegetation, just like someone had turned the tap off when they got to the border.
    We were heading for a small wild encampment owned by friends of Hilda, it’s not yet open to the public and is a conservation project but there’s hundreds of animals all roaming free.
    At 4:30pm we came to a turn off on the tarmac road that took us down a dirt sandy track, went straight across the Kalahari for 45 mins and then came to a fence and turned left and then right for another hour, it was a really crazy track. Eventually we came to some huge steel gates with an animal skull on and let ourselves in. Then we drove for another 25 minutes until eventually we came to house. We were greeted be a female lion called Sergei in a huge 20,000 acre enclose and a black man cutting a wilderbeast in half with a saw, and the owner of the ranch and his wife named Val and Sue.
    We were shown where to park the car and pitch camp and then given the rules. Don’t leave the tent at night, don’t go anywhere on our own, don’t go to see the lion on our own, leopards and hyenas will be outside our tents tonight so when we get in then stay in them.
    Then we went up to the ranch house and we’re greeted by a Caracol, Sue & Val had rescued. This was turning into a stranger day than yesterday.
    We had a very late dinner with Val and Sue and got to know more about them and there conservation projects, I was told I could set up a camera trap where the wilderbeast had just been cut up and that’s what I’ve done and then we all sat around a fire pit and had dinner of Pork and vegetables cooked on an open fire, then as were leaving a porcupine came in to the ranch garden. A truly amazing sight.
    We were there until 11:30pm and then in the pitch black, myself, Ellie and Becky all walked back to our tents which are now out in the open, next to the long grass where the predators are roaming free. We are all nervous about sleeping but excited at the same time.
    Hopefully in the morning the camera traps will show how close we came to an encounter.
    If we survive the encounter in the first place.
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