Mongolia
Hanghy Uul

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    • Day 28

      Nomad stay - day 1

      May 29, 2023 in Mongolia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Today we left the Gobi behind completely and entered the Mongolian Steppes. Hills of green carpet greeted as as we journeyed deeper into the land. Horses, sheep and cow grazed on the hillsides and valleys.

      We finally hit an asphalt road as we made our lunch stop, a restaurant set into former shipping containers which was quite cool. The nomad family we’d be staying with is close by and we went off road again to find them.

      Nomads typically move their flock where the grass grows so it took some time to locate them. They were still in the winter home but will eventually move to their summer home. The humble abode consists of a ger, two basic stables and a wooden storage shed, so we set up tents nearby for our group. We ended up getting our own tents since we were a small group.

      In the afternoon, our drivers slayed a sheep for our Mongolian barbecue tomorrow. There’s a specific way it’s done so that the process is clean and what we hoped was quick and relatively painless. They hold each pair of legs together than make a cut, through the abdomen I believe (I had to look away for this part), then they reach in arm deep to locate a spot on the artery along the spine that would kill the sheep. Not a single drop of blood spilled (instead the blood collects the bottom of the now upside down body.

      Next they skin the sheep before cutting open it’s chest to remove the internal organs. Our host lady would clean these parts out and boil them later to make a ‘sheep salad’. As there weren’t many of us, we were concerned about food wastage but were told the leftover meat and parts would be shared with nearby families.

      Later in the afternoon, we gathered in the family’s ger for the sheep salad. Essentially it is the organs that have been boiled and put on a platter. A hunting of knife of sorts was on the tray so we could cut and sample what we wanted. It all the group was super keen but my favourite was the tongue and the tail. The tail was a little like crispy pork belly. I also had some of the liver (they they say it’s the lung, I’m pretty sure it tasted like liver) as well as the kidney. Perhaps it’s because of what we grew up on, it was not as foreign and strange to me.
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    • Day 29

      Nomad stay - day 2

      May 30, 2023 in Mongolia ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Quite the eventful night last night, I sum it up to 3 naps. The first before a windstorm, the next u til the rain and finally the deep sleep after the rain. I actually had it pretty easy. One of the girls ended up pitching a new tent by herself in the middle of the night while two other people’s tents were whacking them in the face from the force of the wind.

      It was a beautiful morning though after all was said and done. We watched our host milk cows after breakfast. They separate the mothers and their calves, only reuniting each pair when it was that mom’s turn to be milked. The calf would start, I think to get the flow going before the lady milked most the cow before releasing the cow to continue feeding the calf.

      Next we went on a hike around the valley, climbing various peaks. The scenery is just gorgeous and really photos didn’t do it justice. It was like slight mountains covered in green carpet all around.

      After the hike, we returned to help milk the goats. It’s not quite as easy as it looks but we got good instruction so did seem to help a little. The process with mothers and lambs are similar to the cows and calves this morning.

      Lunch was quite the affair as our drivers prepared a Mongolian barbecue for us using the sheep from last night. Yesterday was a more auspicious day and I think it worked out perfectly since it would be a lot of work if done on the same day. This is a special occasion meal and definitely different from what we had imagined. For one, I thought the entire sheep would be hung by it’s legs over a fire. Very wrong.

      As we waited for the meal to be ready, we also ended up playing some 3 on 3 soccer. One of the drivers even put on some Mongolian music. It feels like an event all together and lots of fun. But back to lunch preparations :)

      First they built a fire and heated some stones. On top of the stove they boiled a little water. Once the stones are ready, the meat is placed in a large pot and layered with potatoes, carrots and cabbage. Salt is sprinkled throughout and the stones are also added into the mix as well. The whole process probably took nearly 3 hours.

      The meal was delicious though some of the meat was a bit tough. Vegetarians and vegans beware.

      The weather here is as temperamental as a woman’s behaviour apparently. Bright blue skies alternate with grey storm clouds in the distance. A few drops began to fall after lunch and we made haste to the family ger to wait it out.

      The rain would stop and start again. In fact, as I’m writing this in my tent, raindrops patter steadily on my tent. I hope this is as waterproof as I’m led to believe. We did say if it got really bad, we’d all take shelter in the second ger which normally holds all the camping gear and camping chairs. So we shall see. I’m hoping this will be it for the rain but it’s only 6pm.
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    Hanghy Uul, Q27704480

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