Son-Kol

The rain from the previous evening had dissolved into a sunny morning and with that, our trek to the beautiful Sun-Kol lake was confirmed. At 3013m altitude, the potential risks from snow and ice on the long windy road are real. One of the largest lakes in Kyrgyzstan, this remote location is also the go-to place for herders bringing their flocks to graze on the lush pastures between June and August.

After stocking up on fresh lepyoshka (a wonderful tandori-baked bread), we set out on our long journey into the mountains. As we began our ascent, the snow line edged closer and before we knew it, we were right amongst it. So glad we'd packed those winter woolies! It was also hard to believe we'd been in 35 degrees only a week before!

As we began our descent to the lake the valley opened out, with yurts scattered across the grassy steppe. Horses, sheep, goats and donkeys grazed and frolicked happily in the cool sunshine.

Finally arriving at our yurt camp we spent time settling in to our accommodation, before a slightly wet lunch in a somewhat leaky yurt. As expected, the unpredictability of mountain weather meant we were treated to stunning clear skies and sunshine, interspersed with dark clouds and thunderstorms.

The yurts proved to be highly civilised - we even had proper beds and enough bedding for us to snuggle under as the temperature dipped to zero (or lower).

An invigorating walk to the site of several petroglyphs (rock drawings) also provided sweeping views of the lake and surrounding mountains. Snow melt no doubt generates significant flow along gravelly streams but the site of an aluminum boat part way up a dry stream bed still seemed a bit odd!

It's hard to imagine how this experience could have been more perfect, but next morning's snow really was the icing on the cake (literally). It didn't deter Richard from his morning shave however! This was definitely a highlight of our Kyrgyzstan visit.Read more