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Camino del Norte - Sept 2017
  • Nuala Wanders
  • Nuala Wanders

Camino del Norte - Sept 2017

A 19-day adventure by Nuala Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 12, 2017
  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler

    San Sebastián

    September 12, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Super-easy journey today - a quick flight from Dublin to Bilbao and a bus from the airport to San Sebastián.

    We had a nice evening, wandering around the city and watching the huge waves. Quite mesmerising! Looking forward to walking tomorrow.Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler
    2

    And here we are again - San Sebastián

    September 13, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We got up nice and early this morning and took the 6.30am airport bus. Within 25 minutes we were hopping off just after Irun, ready to start walking. We met Heather from Canada who was hunting for the non-existent arrows and we all walked together for most of the day.

    As happened last time, I was determined to take the so-called Alpinista route, but we somehow ended up on the boring flatter one. We eventually decided to forge our own trail up the side of the hill, and ended up bushwhacking through some difficult terrain. It felt like a major achievement when we reached the top and saw the amazing views of the Bay of Biscay. Well worth the exertion and the badly scratched legs!

    We lad lunch in Pasai before taking the little boat across the river. After that, we took the GR alternatives to San Sebastián. A great day of walking, conversation and laughter. Time for a swim now!    Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler

    Appreciating the simple things

    September 13, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    The waves were huge this evening on La Concha beach. As I enjoyed the childish pleasure of swimming into each one and being thrown around as if in a washing machine, I realised how lucky I am to get such enjoyment from the simple things in life. Swimming in the sea, walking all day, laughing with new acquaintances .... and a hot cup of tea when it's most needed. Thank you @Laurie Reynolds for introducing me to this wonderful little gadget that boils a cup of water in no time at all. Truly life-enhancing!Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler

    Getaria

    September 14, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We had all kinds of weather and every type of terrain today. The rain was pounding as we left San Sebastián, donned in our wet weather gear. Although it gradually abated, the natural trails were very muddy and slippy. The asphalt sections were quite a relief

    Things picked up after Orio and we took the alternative route into Zarautz. I took the road route last time, but this one (following the GR markers at Camping Zarautz) is so much nicer. The sun was shining and it was great to take off our shoes to walk in the sea.

    We chatted with lots of very nice people today. My scratched legs from yesterday's bushwhacking were a source of great amusement, especially when one guy asked if I'd been attacked by an animal!

    Once again, a swim in the sea was a great way of easing the aches and pains. All in all, a tiring day with a very happy ending.    Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler

    Zumaia

    September 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    I love it when there's a breakfast stop about 5kms from our starting point. That first hour of walking has a clear purpose - coffee and tortilla con patata!

    Today's breakfast stop had an extra point of interest - it's the hometown of Antxon Gonzalez Gabarain (aka Bolitx), the famous Basque pilgrim who sadly passed away from ALS/MND. Before he died, he wrote El Gran Caminante, a book documenting his walk to Santiago from his front door in Zumaia. I recently read and thoroughly enjoyed the English translation of this book.

    Each morning, Antxon ordered both an espresso and a cafe con leche for his breakfast. It seemed only right to do the same in his home town this morning!    Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler

    About 22kms to Albergue Izarbide

    September 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    A tough day, with lots of hills, rain and mud. It felt like much more than 22kms. However, we stopped in a few places along the way and (mostly!) enjoyed the journey.

    This is my second time to stay in this 'middle of nowhere' albergue. It's in a converted cowshed and there's a mix of nationalities here tonight. Great to have a hot shower, a clean bed and hopefully a nice dinner.Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler
    22

    Markina - exhausted!

    September 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Another day of ups and downs, with muddy trails and scenic views. We were so glad to reach Markina at lunchtime. We considering walking a bit further, but decided that rest was more important today.

    We're in the donativo pilgrim hostel, along with many of the people we've met in the past few days. Nice place.    Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler

    Gernika

    September 17, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    I really like Gernika, especially on a Sunday when the shops are closed and the town is full of families. We had a touristy day here. Damian went to the peace museum, I did our laundry in the lavanderia and we enjoyed tapas and wine in the square.

    One of the great things about a hotel night is the freedom to empty our packs and make a huge mess on the floor. It was good to sort out our stuff and repack it all. Simple Camino pleasures.

    We had fun in the evening with two Irish guys who arrived in town at around 5pm and were on a quest to find a pizza. Needless to say, nowhere was serving food at that time so we wandered around and did a cafe crawl until dinner time. No pizza, but very good burgers and snacks in a bar near the youth hostel.    Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler

    About 31kms to Bilbao

    September 18, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    We left Gernika at about 7am, with no fixed plan other than to have coffee in Larrabetzu (16kms) and decide whether to walk to Lezama, or all the way to Bilbao.

    The first part of the walk involved more mud and hills, but we picked up our pace on the road sections. We felt pretty good after our Larrabetzu break and figured we could probably make it to Bilbao. We walked with Jim, who we'd met a few times over the past few days. The company and the chat definitely made things easier.

    On reaching Zamudio, we figured that it was time for some food. We spotted a bar/restaurant opposite the train station and with no particular expectations, looked inside. We were brought downstairs to a busy dining room, filled with workers on their lunch break, enjoying an €11 menu del dia. It was lovely and just what we needed.

    After lunch, Jim and I continued walking to Bilbao (8.4kms, according to Strava) and Damian took the train. This was a nicer walk than I expected, although the rain made the mud even sloppier than before. It was good to eventually arrive in the city and to walk through an area I haven't seen before.

    We've had so much rain and mud over the past few days. According to the weather forecast, things should improve tomorrow as we head back towards the coast. Yay!    Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler

    Bilbao to Portugalete

    September 19, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    A shortish walk today, so we got up a bit later than usual and had breakfast in Bilbao. We debated which route to take - the 'official' path seemed to be about 19kms, while the more industrial route on the RHS of the river is about 13kms. We decided on a 'middle' approach - the Buen Camino app showed a recently waymarked track on the LHS of the river, joining the original Camino arrows at Sestao.

    Our hotel was at the river, so we crossed the bridge and started walking, keeping the river to our right. This seemed more sensible, albeit longer, than going up and down city streets to find a theoretical starting point.

    All in all, an easy day with good weather and an interesting view of city life. 16.5kms, according to Strava.

    We're in Pension la Guia tonight. Clean and basic. €40 for 2. Cheaper if not con baño.    Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler
    Portugalete

    Portugalete, and a hop across the river

    September 19, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    When I walked some of the Norte in May, I met Xabier from Bilbao most days. He was a mine of useful information and I remember his advice about the route out of Bilbao. He suggested walking on the right hand side of the river, through the industrial areas. He added that he was amazed at how pilgrims always seem to go straight to the transporter bridge, rather that walking just a little bit further to the coast.

    We didn't take his advice on the route out of Bilbao, but when we arrived in Portugalete, I was curious to know what lay beyond the other side of the bridge. We decided to find out, so we paid the grand sum of 40 cents for a quick ride across the river. Xabier was right - Getxo is a very nice little place. We then returned to Portugalete by boat - just 35 cents a ride!    Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler

    Santoña

    September 21, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We set out this morning from Castro Urdiales, thinking about walking to Liendo or perhaps as far as Laredo. 38kms and about 10 hours later we arrived in Santoña.

    I should clarify that this wasn't quite as hardcore as it may seem. Firstly, the 38kms includes the little boat ride from Laredo to Santoña. And secondly, we took lots of breaks and ate nice food along the way. In fact, we blame the menu del dia in Laredo for our decision to keep walking. After a nice lunch and some wine, it seemed easier to walk along the beach to the boat, than to walk around a busy tourist town to find an albergue or pension. 😊

    Today's route had a number of options and everyone we met seemed to choose the road wherever possible. We took the road from Islares to Liendo, but followed the Camino arrows after that. I expect that it was longer than the road, but it was a really nice walk with some beautiful sea views.

    When we eventually arrived in Santoña, I looked at the Buen Camino app and phoned a place that offered a pilgrim discount. Thinking that it was a basic pension, I expressed surprise at the price of €65 for a double room. They agreed to include breakfast, so I went ahead and booked it. Imagine our surprise when a couple of kms later we checked into Juan de las Cosa, a very nice 4 star hotel on the beach! It even has a swimming pool and a jacuzzi. And a buffet breakfast tomorrow!    Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler

    Santoña to Guemes

    September 22, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    This was another nice walk, with no fixed plan for our final destination. We took the coastal option from the Santoña beach, which involved a short sharp climb on a narrow track. It certainly got the heart and lungs working! It felt a little precarious at times, but the views were worth it. I'd hate to try it in bad weather, though.

    We enjoyed the beach walk to Noja. After that, we followed the arrows to Castiillo and then to Meruelo and Güemes. I'll look at this on a map when I get home, but I suspect that the waymarked route to the albergue is not the most efficient one.

    There were 57 pilgrims from 20 countries in the Güemes albergue. It's an impressive operation and it was great to be away from the tourist trail and in a Camino environment. Surprisingly, I slept really well in spite of all the snoring!    Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler

    Güemes to Santander

    September 23, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Sometimes it's great to walk long and fast, but it can also be nice to ramble along with no sense of urgency. Today's walk definitely fell into the latter category.

    We had breakfast in the albergue and left at around 8am. When we reached Galizano, we turned right to take the coastal route to Santander. This is a wonderful walk, and only a few kms longer than the road. It was mostly on natural trails with sea views to the right and fields to the left. We chatted to people we'd met last night in Güemes and to a young German guy from one of the many camper vans along the coast. The walk along the beach to Somo was definitely a highlight and I even had time for a little swim!

    The final 5kms into a big Camino city usually involves a long hard slog on concrete. No so for the entry to Santander - those final kms are by boat from Somo. I love this Camino!

    We haven't yet decided on our route for tomorrow. I fancy the coastal route, but I need to see how it fits in with our bigger plan to fly home on 1st October. Just 7 more walking days this time.    Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler

    Leaving Santander by the coast

    September 24, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We took another coastal option today. Instead of following the arrows along concrete and asphalt, we walked along the promenade towards the beaches and the cliffs, passing through some very nice parts of Santander. I'm surprised that more pilgrims don't take this variant.Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler

    Santander to Sota de la Marina

    September 24, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We walked about 21kms today, along coastal roads and paths with beautiful views of the sea. As it was a Sunday, there were lots of people on the trails and at the beauty spots along the way. We expected this to be a quieter walk with no services, but there were a few cafes and even an ice cream van when we needed them!

    We got some strange looks in the seaside places today. Hikers with full packs are an oddity around here. The beaches are full of families and sun worshippers enjoying the good weather. We are an alien species among these beautiful people!

    We decided to stop in Soto de la Marina, rather than doing the thirty something kms to Boo de Pielagos.
    This is a nice little place and the Posada is very well located. I've just had what might be my favourite swim so far. Lovely little beach with big splashy waves.

    I'm not sure where we'll walk tomorrow. Boo is a bit too close, but Santillana del Mar may be too long a walk. As always, we'll figure it out as we go along.    Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler
    1

    Enjoying the coast

    September 25, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    We had dinner last night in the bar opposite the Posada de la Morena. It's right beside the beach and we listened to the waves crashing against the rocks. Although we could probably have walked this coastal option in one go, it was lovely to take a more leisurely approach and enjoy an overnight stop. The barman was very chatty and it turned out that he'd worked in Belfast for a few years! Small world.

    We left at around 8am this morning, just as the sun was rising. Another spectacularly beautiful walk.

    I'll have to edit these posts when I'm less tired - I'm probably using the same adjectives over and over again! Not to mention the inevitable typos 😊    Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler
    1

    About 31kms to Santillana del Mar

    September 25, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    We made it! This was a day of contrasts: mind-blowing coastal views, a calm forest trail and an awful lot of road-walking. It's good to have arrived. We've checked into a a cute little pension - Hospedaje Angelica. Nice double room for just €36.

    Looking forward to exploring the town and getting some dinner later.

    More details to follow.    Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler

    21.5kms to Comillas

    September 26, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    It was good to do a shorter walk and to arrive in Comillas in time for a menu del dia. This turned out to be a marathon lunch, as they somehow forgot about our order and brought us a plate of patatas bravas as an apology. We then had the other three courses, plus the complimentary green teas to apologise again! All of this was quite funny as we hadn't actually complained - we were too tired and relaxed to notice how long it was taking to bring the food.

    Our accommodation choice today was based entirely on its proximity to that menu del dia. We're in a pension. I'm not even sure of its name. We'll walk around the town later and I'll hopefully have a swim.

    This was a pretty straightforward walk today. Nothing difficult or spectacular. I called into the San Pedro church near Oreña and the man there seemed delighted that someone took the time to visit. There's a sello and a Camino information board.

    Over the past few days I've seen quite a few posters about the Camino Lebaniego and a pilgrim in a bar in Santander was singing it's praises. So many Caminos .....,,,,,    Read more

  • Nuala WandersCamino del Norte - Sept 2017Traveler

    Colombres - a long and hot 28kms

    September 27, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Today was a long day and the weather was hot, hot, hot! However, there were lots of pleasant distractions along the way.

    Reflecting on the past few days, the coastal alternatives were amazing and I'd do them again in a heartbeat However, taking a different path can lead to a disconnection from other pilgrims. And since we had already parted company with lots of folk in Bilbao, we've been getting to know a bunch of 'new' people over the past few days.

    As on the Primitivo last year, English speakers are in the minority on this Camino. We were delighted to meet J. from England this morning and to walk with him to San Vincente de la Barquera. He started in Santander and will cross onto the Camino Lebaniego today. He plans to continue on Vadiniense and if his money doesn't run out, he'll keep on walking - perhaps on the Salvador and Primitivo. What a wonderful plan!

    It was also a lovely surprise to see M. from Barcelona who we last saw in the albergue in Markina.

    We're in the Colombres albergue, along with almost everyone we met today. It's a forgettable kind of a place, but we were all much too tired to be fussy. There are about 20 of us here.

    Tomorrow we'll walk to Llanes or Poo. Our big priority will be to find a place with a washing machine!    Read more

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