Camino del Norte - Sept 2017

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12. september 2017
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Dag 1
tirsdag 12. september 2017 07:39
⛅ 9 °C
Høyde: 44 m
Nord-Irland Sprucefield 54.484954, -6.0679354°29’6” N 6°4’5” W
Setting off from home - we're on our way
12. september 2017, Nord-Irland ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C
ReisendeI leave from SJPdP in 24 September and also blog here. Would like to follow you
12.09.2017Svar
ReisendeBuen Camino!
12.09.2017Svar
ReisendeKinnear2017 - wishing you a Buen Camino! Wandering Aussie - thanks for the good wishes.
12.09.2017Svar
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Dag 1
tirsdag 12. september 2017 12:27
⛅ 14 °C
Høyde: 61 m
Irland Dublin Airport 53.424745, -6.24168753°25’29” N 6°14’30” W
Dublin Airport
12. september 2017, Irland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Laurie ReynoldsHi, Nuala, lucky lucky you. Can't wait to hear how it goes! Buen camino
12.09.2017Svar
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Dag 1
tirsdag 12. september 2017 19:56
⛅ 19 °C
Høyde: 25 m
Spania Urumea River 43.323082, -1.97753843°19’23” N 1°58’39” W
San Sebastián
12. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Super-easy journey today - a quick flight from Dublin to Bilbao and a bus from the airport to San Sebastián.

We had a nice evening, wandering around the city and watching the huge waves. Quite mesmerising! Looking forward to walking tomorrow.Les mer
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Laurie ReynoldsNuala, I stayed in the Pension Donostiarra, but I checked on google maps to see that it's not close to this bodega. Hope your walk tomorrow is super fun! Find the alpinista route, girl! And stay on the GR 121!
12.09.2017Svar
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Dag 2
onsdag 13. september 2017 18:52
☀️ 22 °C
Høyde: 19 m
Spania Galería de Arte Echevarría 43.317093, -1.98552443°19’2” N 1°59’8” W
2
And here we are again - San Sebastián
13. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
We got up nice and early this morning and took the 6.30am airport bus. Within 25 minutes we were hopping off just after Irun, ready to start walking. We met Heather from Canada who was hunting for the non-existent arrows and we all walked together for most of the day.

As happened last time, I was determined to take the so-called Alpinista route, but we somehow ended up on the boring flatter one. We eventually decided to forge our own trail up the side of the hill, and ended up bushwhacking through some difficult terrain. It felt like a major achievement when we reached the top and saw the amazing views of the Bay of Biscay. Well worth the exertion and the badly scratched legs!

We lad lunch in Pasai before taking the little boat across the river. After that, we took the GR alternatives to San Sebastián. A great day of walking, conversation and laughter. Time for a swim now!Les mer
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Claire Topping Love this photo, amazing views!
18.09.2017Svar
Reisende Thanks Claire, it was a very happy moment!
18.09.2017Svar
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Dag 2
onsdag 13. september 2017 22:41
⛅ 20 °C
Høyde: 20 m
Spania Galería de Arte Echevarría 43.317318, -1.98540243°19’2” N 1°59’7” W
Appreciating the simple things
13. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
The waves were huge this evening on La Concha beach. As I enjoyed the childish pleasure of swimming into each one and being thrown around as if in a washing machine, I realised how lucky I am to get such enjoyment from the simple things in life. Swimming in the sea, walking all day, laughing with new acquaintances .... and a hot cup of tea when it's most needed. Thank you @Laurie Reynolds for introducing me to this wonderful little gadget that boils a cup of water in no time at all. Truly life-enhancing!Les mer
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Elizabeth CuddyA cup of tea!, I forget what that looks like, what an addition to your supply list.
15.09.2017Svar
ReisendeIt's great, Elizabeth. I'll get you one for next year.
30.09.2017Svar
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Dag 3
torsdag 14. september 2017 19:39
⛅ 17 °C
Høyde: 53 m
Spania San Anton mendia / Cima San Anton 43.302036, -2.2054343°18’7” N 2°12’20” W
Getaria
14. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
We had all kinds of weather and every type of terrain today. The rain was pounding as we left San Sebastián, donned in our wet weather gear. Although it gradually abated, the natural trails were very muddy and slippy. The asphalt sections were quite a relief

Things picked up after Orio and we took the alternative route into Zarautz. I took the road route last time, but this one (following the GR markers at Camping Zarautz) is so much nicer. The sun was shining and it was great to take off our shoes to walk in the sea.

We chatted with lots of very nice people today. My scratched legs from yesterday's bushwhacking were a source of great amusement, especially when one guy asked if I'd been attacked by an animal!

Once again, a swim in the sea was a great way of easing the aches and pains. All in all, a tiring day with a very happy ending.Les mer
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Laurie ReynoldsLove the picture of Getaria. Are you in the albergue up out of town? I'll have to add your GR121 alternative from Zarautz to my list, I never found it!
14.09.2017Svar
Elizabeth CuddySounds like it is going well Nuala. Scratches are better than blisters!
15.09.2017Svar
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Dag 4
fredag 15. september 2017 08:57
🌧 12 °C
Høyde: 12 m
Spania Arridokietako Andre Maria / Nuestra Señora de Arridokieta 43.296545, -2.25733343°17’48” N 2°15’26” W
Zumaia
15. september 2017, Spania ⋅ 🌧 12 °C
I love it when there's a breakfast stop about 5kms from our starting point. That first hour of walking has a clear purpose - coffee and tortilla con patata!

Today's breakfast stop had an extra point of interest - it's the hometown of Antxon Gonzalez Gabarain (aka Bolitx), the famous Basque pilgrim who sadly passed away from ALS/MND. Before he died, he wrote El Gran Caminante, a book documenting his walk to Santiago from his front door in Zumaia. I recently read and thoroughly enjoyed the English translation of this book.

Each morning, Antxon ordered both an espresso and a cafe con leche for his breakfast. It seemed only right to do the same in his home town this morning!Les mer
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Dag 4
fredag 15. september 2017 16:28
⛅ 15 °C
Høyde: 260 m
Spania Kardalamutur 43.293583, -2.38636243°17’37” N 2°23’11” W
About 22kms to Albergue Izarbide
15. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
A tough day, with lots of hills, rain and mud. It felt like much more than 22kms. However, we stopped in a few places along the way and (mostly!) enjoyed the journey.

This is my second time to stay in this 'middle of nowhere' albergue. It's in a converted cowshed and there's a mix of nationalities here tonight. Great to have a hot shower, a clean bed and hopefully a nice dinner.Les mer
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Elizabeth CuddyThe cow shed was probably way better than the train station.
16.09.2017Svar
ReisendeIt's fine, but not as good as it was in May.
16.09.2017Svar
Elizabeth CuddyA Spanish fella was complaining about too many walkers., he ytook time of unworkable and why is everyone else not at work!
16.09.2017Svar
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Dag 4
fredag 15. september 2017 17:30
⛅ 17 °C
Høyde: 17 m
Spania Deba 43.295617, -2.35611743°17’44” N 2°21’22” W
Lunch in Deba
15. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
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Dag 5
lørdag 16. september 2017 18:23
⛅ 16 °C
Høyde: 86 m
Spania Markina 43.268833, -2.49962843°16’8” N 2°29’59” W
2 2
Markina - exhausted!
16. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Another day of ups and downs, with muddy trails and scenic views. We were so glad to reach Markina at lunchtime. We considering walking a bit further, but decided that rest was more important today.

We're in the donativo pilgrim hostel, along with many of the people we've met in the past few days. Nice place.Les mer
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Elizabeth Cuddy Nice and clean!
16.09.2017Svar
Elizabeth Cuddy Any way around it?
16.09.2017Svar
Reisende No, I just left him there 😊
16.09.2017Svar
Reisende Yes, and he didn't run away when I stopped for a chat!
16.09.2017Svar
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Dag 6
søndag 17. september 2017
⛅ 18 °C
Høyde: 20 m
Spania Urdaibai 43.316647, -2.67772243°18’60” N 2°40’40” W
Gernika
17. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
I really like Gernika, especially on a Sunday when the shops are closed and the town is full of families. We had a touristy day here. Damian went to the peace museum, I did our laundry in the lavanderia and we enjoyed tapas and wine in the square.

One of the great things about a hotel night is the freedom to empty our packs and make a huge mess on the floor. It was good to sort out our stuff and repack it all. Simple Camino pleasures.

We had fun in the evening with two Irish guys who arrived in town at around 5pm and were on a quest to find a pizza. Needless to say, nowhere was serving food at that time so we wandered around and did a cafe crawl until dinner time. No pizza, but very good burgers and snacks in a bar near the youth hostel.Les mer
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Dag 7
mandag 18. september 2017 18:39
🌧 16 °C
Høyde: 22 m
Spania Albia Garden 43.264671, -2.92388843°15’53” N 2°55’26” W
About 31kms to Bilbao
18. september 2017, Spania ⋅ 🌧 16 °C
We left Gernika at about 7am, with no fixed plan other than to have coffee in Larrabetzu (16kms) and decide whether to walk to Lezama, or all the way to Bilbao.

The first part of the walk involved more mud and hills, but we picked up our pace on the road sections. We felt pretty good after our Larrabetzu break and figured we could probably make it to Bilbao. We walked with Jim, who we'd met a few times over the past few days. The company and the chat definitely made things easier.

On reaching Zamudio, we figured that it was time for some food. We spotted a bar/restaurant opposite the train station and with no particular expectations, looked inside. We were brought downstairs to a busy dining room, filled with workers on their lunch break, enjoying an €11 menu del dia. It was lovely and just what we needed.

After lunch, Jim and I continued walking to Bilbao (8.4kms, according to Strava) and Damian took the train. This was a nicer walk than I expected, although the rain made the mud even sloppier than before. It was good to eventually arrive in the city and to walk through an area I haven't seen before.

We've had so much rain and mud over the past few days. According to the weather forecast, things should improve tomorrow as we head back towards the coast. Yay!Les mer
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Laurie ReynoldsYou are a real trooper, Nuala! Fingers crossed for you that the weather really improves.
18.09.2017Svar
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Dag 7
mandag 18. september 2017 21:33
⛅ 15 °C
Høyde: 30 m
Spania Bilbao 43.258062, -2.92216743°15’29” N 2°55’20” W
Rainy evening in Bilbao
18. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
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Dag 8
tirsdag 19. september 2017 17:54
⛅ 20 °C
Høyde: 75 m
Spania Plaza dario Regoyos Enparantza 43.316624, -3.02045543°18’60” N 3°1’14” W
Bilbao to Portugalete
19. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
A shortish walk today, so we got up a bit later than usual and had breakfast in Bilbao. We debated which route to take - the 'official' path seemed to be about 19kms, while the more industrial route on the RHS of the river is about 13kms. We decided on a 'middle' approach - the Buen Camino app showed a recently waymarked track on the LHS of the river, joining the original Camino arrows at Sestao.

Our hotel was at the river, so we crossed the bridge and started walking, keeping the river to our right. This seemed more sensible, albeit longer, than going up and down city streets to find a theoretical starting point.

All in all, an easy day with good weather and an interesting view of city life. 16.5kms, according to Strava.

We're in Pension la Guia tonight. Clean and basic. €40 for 2. Cheaper if not con baño.Les mer
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Dag 8
tirsdag 19. september 2017 22:05
⛅ 12 °C
Høyde: 75 m
Spania Plaza dario Regoyos Enparantza 43.316631, -3.0204743°18’60” N 3°1’14” W
Portugalete, and a hop across the river
19. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
When I walked some of the Norte in May, I met Xabier from Bilbao most days. He was a mine of useful information and I remember his advice about the route out of Bilbao. He suggested walking on the right hand side of the river, through the industrial areas. He added that he was amazed at how pilgrims always seem to go straight to the transporter bridge, rather that walking just a little bit further to the coast.

We didn't take his advice on the route out of Bilbao, but when we arrived in Portugalete, I was curious to know what lay beyond the other side of the bridge. We decided to find out, so we paid the grand sum of 40 cents for a quick ride across the river. Xabier was right - Getxo is a very nice little place. We then returned to Portugalete by boat - just 35 cents a ride!Les mer
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Dag 9
onsdag 20. september 2017 20:25
🌙 18 °C
Høyde: 20 m
Spania Puerto de Castro Urdiales 43.384462, -3.21768443°23’4” N 3°13’4” W
Castro Urdiales
20. september 2017, Spania ⋅ 🌙 18 °C
Nice walk today, but with a little too much asphalt. Great to see the sea again and to have an afternoon swim. More comments too follow when I'm less tired!
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Elizabeth CuddyA swim is such a treat. Watch it for jellyfish.
21.09.2017Svar
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Dag 10
torsdag 21. september 2017 21:44
⛅ 18 °C
Høyde: 16 m
Spania Playa de Berria 43.46368, -3.47129943°27’49” N 3°28’17” W
Santoña
21. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
We set out this morning from Castro Urdiales, thinking about walking to Liendo or perhaps as far as Laredo. 38kms and about 10 hours later we arrived in Santoña.

I should clarify that this wasn't quite as hardcore as it may seem. Firstly, the 38kms includes the little boat ride from Laredo to Santoña. And secondly, we took lots of breaks and ate nice food along the way. In fact, we blame the menu del dia in Laredo for our decision to keep walking. After a nice lunch and some wine, it seemed easier to walk along the beach to the boat, than to walk around a busy tourist town to find an albergue or pension. 😊

Today's route had a number of options and everyone we met seemed to choose the road wherever possible. We took the road from Islares to Liendo, but followed the Camino arrows after that. I expect that it was longer than the road, but it was a really nice walk with some beautiful sea views.

When we eventually arrived in Santoña, I looked at the Buen Camino app and phoned a place that offered a pilgrim discount. Thinking that it was a basic pension, I expressed surprise at the price of €65 for a double room. They agreed to include breakfast, so I went ahead and booked it. Imagine our surprise when a couple of kms later we checked into Juan de las Cosa, a very nice 4 star hotel on the beach! It even has a swimming pool and a jacuzzi. And a buffet breakfast tomorrow!Les mer
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Elizabeth CuddyA well deserved stop after that long walk. Well done!
21.09.2017Svar
Elizabeth CuddyAnd, stand on your head. It feels great and your feet will love it most of all.
21.09.2017Svar
Laurie ReynoldsLook at that empty boat! I think that was a brilliant idea, to head to Santoña. Enjoy the luxury.
21.09.2017Svar
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Dag 11
fredag 22. september 2017 17:46
⛅ 18 °C
Høyde: 84 m
Spania Güemes 43.448025, -3.6456643°26’53” N 3°38’44” W
Santoña to Guemes
22. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
This was another nice walk, with no fixed plan for our final destination. We took the coastal option from the Santoña beach, which involved a short sharp climb on a narrow track. It certainly got the heart and lungs working! It felt a little precarious at times, but the views were worth it. I'd hate to try it in bad weather, though.

We enjoyed the beach walk to Noja. After that, we followed the arrows to Castiillo and then to Meruelo and Güemes. I'll look at this on a map when I get home, but I suspect that the waymarked route to the albergue is not the most efficient one.

There were 57 pilgrims from 20 countries in the Güemes albergue. It's an impressive operation and it was great to be away from the tourist trail and in a Camino environment. Surprisingly, I slept really well in spite of all the snoring!Les mer
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Laurie ReynoldsAhhh, Guemes, I missed it this year. Tomorrow Santander? How much longer do you have, Nuala?
22.09.2017Svar
Elizabeth CuddyHow was it? There was a lot of chat about that being a good stop.
23.09.2017Svar
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Dag 12
lørdag 23. september 2017 13:32
☀️ 23 °C
Høyde: Sjønivå
Spania Palacete del Embarcadero 43.461563, -3.80137543°27’42” N 3°48’5” W
Güemes to Santander
23. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Sometimes it's great to walk long and fast, but it can also be nice to ramble along with no sense of urgency. Today's walk definitely fell into the latter category.

We had breakfast in the albergue and left at around 8am. When we reached Galizano, we turned right to take the coastal route to Santander. This is a wonderful walk, and only a few kms longer than the road. It was mostly on natural trails with sea views to the right and fields to the left. We chatted to people we'd met last night in Güemes and to a young German guy from one of the many camper vans along the coast. The walk along the beach to Somo was definitely a highlight and I even had time for a little swim!

The final 5kms into a big Camino city usually involves a long hard slog on concrete. No so for the entry to Santander - those final kms are by boat from Somo. I love this Camino!

We haven't yet decided on our route for tomorrow. I fancy the coastal route, but I need to see how it fits in with our bigger plan to fly home on 1st October. Just 7 more walking days this time.Les mer
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Dag 13
søndag 24. september 2017 17:25
⛅ 20 °C
Høyde: 33 m
Spania Fondeadero de la Osa 43.463649, -3.78715643°27’49” N 3°47’14” W
Leaving Santander by the coast
24. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
We took another coastal option today. Instead of following the arrows along concrete and asphalt, we walked along the promenade towards the beaches and the cliffs, passing through some very nice parts of Santander. I'm surprised that more pilgrims don't take this variant.Les mer
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Laurie ReynoldsI so agree with you about the lack of pilgrim interest. We'll have to drum up business on the forum!!
24.09.2017Svar
Elizabeth CuddyHow do you find out about the options. I just followed the arrows everyday.
24.09.2017Svar
ReisendeElizabeth - you need to join the Camino forum! I'll send you links when I get home. Laurie - 8 people took the coastal route out of Santander a day after us, using your GPS tracks! The word is spreading, but most pilgrims we met were Spanish (using Gronze) or German (using the red or yellow German guides).
30.09.2017Svar
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Dag 13
søndag 24. september 2017 17:42
⛅ 20 °C
Høyde: 24 m
Spania Punta de San Juan de la Canal 43.474181, -3.89531743°28’27” N 3°53’43” W
Santander to Sota de la Marina
24. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
We walked about 21kms today, along coastal roads and paths with beautiful views of the sea. As it was a Sunday, there were lots of people on the trails and at the beauty spots along the way. We expected this to be a quieter walk with no services, but there were a few cafes and even an ice cream van when we needed them!

We got some strange looks in the seaside places today. Hikers with full packs are an oddity around here. The beaches are full of families and sun worshippers enjoying the good weather. We are an alien species among these beautiful people!

We decided to stop in Soto de la Marina, rather than doing the thirty something kms to Boo de Pielagos.
This is a nice little place and the Posada is very well located. I've just had what might be my favourite swim so far. Lovely little beach with big splashy waves.

I'm not sure where we'll walk tomorrow. Boo is a bit too close, but Santillana del Mar may be too long a walk. As always, we'll figure it out as we go along.Les mer
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Laurie ReynoldsSo glad you are having such beautiful weather!
24.09.2017Svar
Laurie ReynoldsNuala, you've probably already seen this, but gronze lists some private alternatives after Boo but before Santillana. https://www.gronze.com/etapa/santander/santilla…. Buen camino, peregrina!!!!
24.09.2017Svar
Claire ToppingLoving all these sea and beach photos. Will have to see if I can inspire Mr T to get his walking shoes on! Definitely looks like my type of walk.
24.09.2017Svar
Elizabeth CuddyLovely Nuala.
24.09.2017Svar
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Dag 14
mandag 25. september 2017 18:05
🌧 19 °C
Høyde: 7 m
Spania Punta de San Juan de la Canal 43.47385, -3.89328543°28’26” N 3°53’36” W
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Enjoying the coast
25. september 2017, Spania ⋅ 🌧 19 °C
We had dinner last night in the bar opposite the Posada de la Morena. It's right beside the beach and we listened to the waves crashing against the rocks. Although we could probably have walked this coastal option in one go, it was lovely to take a more leisurely approach and enjoy an overnight stop. The barman was very chatty and it turned out that he'd worked in Belfast for a few years! Small world.

We left at around 8am this morning, just as the sun was rising. Another spectacularly beautiful walk.

I'll have to edit these posts when I'm less tired - I'm probably using the same adjectives over and over again! Not to mention the inevitable typos 😊Les mer
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ReisendeWonderful video - a meditation!
26.09.2017Svar
So beautiful
26.09.2017Svar
ReisendeIndeed! I could watch it over and over.
30.09.2017Svar
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Dag 14
mandag 25. september 2017 18:17
🌧 18 °C
Høyde: 92 m
Spania Santillana 43.390984, -4.10842943°23’28” N 4°6’30” W
1
About 31kms to Santillana del Mar
25. september 2017, Spania ⋅ 🌧 18 °C
We made it! This was a day of contrasts: mind-blowing coastal views, a calm forest trail and an awful lot of road-walking. It's good to have arrived. We've checked into a a cute little pension - Hospedaje Angelica. Nice double room for just €36.

Looking forward to exploring the town and getting some dinner later.

More details to follow.Les mer
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Elizabeth CuddyWell done there Nuala. Isn't that a lovely place, I hope there are less tour busses there in the morning. It was mobbed when I was there, plus it was raining.
25.09.2017Svar
ReisendeHi Elizabeth, it's very pretty indeed. Full of tourists tonight! There are a few walking tours making their way around the town.
25.09.2017Svar
Laurie ReynoldsSo happy to see you are there safe and sound. Though I am not a big fan of all the ticky tacky souvenir shops, I do very much LOVE the romanesque cloister, as you might have guessed! That picture of the pine forest was very evocative -- just like I remember it!
25.09.2017Svar
Reisende Beautiful woodland 🌳🌿
26.09.2017Svar
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Camino del Norte - Sept 2017 Reisende
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Dag 15
tirsdag 26. september 2017 17:30
⛅ 19 °C
Høyde: 38 m
Spania Comillas 43.384716, -4.28938743°23’5” N 4°17’22” W
21.5kms to Comillas
26. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
It was good to do a shorter walk and to arrive in Comillas in time for a menu del dia. This turned out to be a marathon lunch, as they somehow forgot about our order and brought us a plate of patatas bravas as an apology. We then had the other three courses, plus the complimentary green teas to apologise again! All of this was quite funny as we hadn't actually complained - we were too tired and relaxed to notice how long it was taking to bring the food.

Our accommodation choice today was based entirely on its proximity to that menu del dia. We're in a pension. I'm not even sure of its name. We'll walk around the town later and I'll hopefully have a swim.

This was a pretty straightforward walk today. Nothing difficult or spectacular. I called into the San Pedro church near Oreña and the man there seemed delighted that someone took the time to visit. There's a sello and a Camino information board.

Over the past few days I've seen quite a few posters about the Camino Lebaniego and a pilgrim in a bar in Santander was singing it's praises. So many Caminos .....,,,,,Les mer
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ReisendePatatas bravas as an apology works every time! 🙂
26.09.2017Svar
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Camino del Norte - Sept 2017 Reisende
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Dag 16
onsdag 27. september 2017 18:43
☀️ 19 °C
Høyde: 104 m
Spania Colombres 43.375248, -4.53759143°22’31” N 4°32’15” W
Colombres - a long and hot 28kms
27. september 2017, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Today was a long day and the weather was hot, hot, hot! However, there were lots of pleasant distractions along the way.

Reflecting on the past few days, the coastal alternatives were amazing and I'd do them again in a heartbeat However, taking a different path can lead to a disconnection from other pilgrims. And since we had already parted company with lots of folk in Bilbao, we've been getting to know a bunch of 'new' people over the past few days.

As on the Primitivo last year, English speakers are in the minority on this Camino. We were delighted to meet J. from England this morning and to walk with him to San Vincente de la Barquera. He started in Santander and will cross onto the Camino Lebaniego today. He plans to continue on Vadiniense and if his money doesn't run out, he'll keep on walking - perhaps on the Salvador and Primitivo. What a wonderful plan!

It was also a lovely surprise to see M. from Barcelona who we last saw in the albergue in Markina.

We're in the Colombres albergue, along with almost everyone we met today. It's a forgettable kind of a place, but we were all much too tired to be fussy. There are about 20 of us here.

Tomorrow we'll walk to Llanes or Poo. Our big priority will be to find a place with a washing machine!Les mer
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ReisendeGorgeous pics - glad you're relaxing now!
27.09.2017Svar
ReisendeThanks Willa! x
30.09.2017Svar
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