• Simon and Blake
huhtik. 2017 – tammik. 2018

Around the World

282-päiväinen seikkaillu — Simon Lue lisää
  • Matkan aloitus
    3. huhtikuuta 2017

    London Heathrow

    3. huhtikuuta 2017, Englanti ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Our morning started at 2.30am following a luxurious stay in our windowless easyJet hotel room. We awoke to the good news that our Australian visas had been granted (talk about cutting it fine) and were feeling very positive about the adventure ahead of us! Our luck soon ended when the airline refused to let us check in as we didn't have a flight booked out of Brazil. Apparently a flight out of Peru isn't evidence enough that you are going to leave Brazil! By the time the supervisor came on duty and was able to help us the plane was overbooked. Our luck changed again when they offered us €600 each in compensation, a £20 food voucher (with which we treated ourselves to a Wetherspoons breakfast) and rebooked us on to a direct flight to
    Rio with British Airways at 12:30.

    After all that, we have finally made it to the departure lounge and are on our way...
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  • Rio de Janiero

    4. huhtikuuta 2017, Brasilia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Our first observation about Rio... they drive like maniacs! The journey from the airport felt like an Alton Towers ride!

    But we are here and checked in to our first hostel! I have no idea what the guy at the reception desk said to us but we both got a fist pump so I think we have made a good impression!

    Today we did 2 back to back walking tours around Downtown Rio and then Copacabana and Ipanema which were really good.

    Highlights of Downton Rio were the 215 Selaron Steps and the delicious brigadeiro from a beautiful historic bakery where the King of Brazil used to go to make all of his important decisions on Brazilian politics. If it's good enough for him it's good enough for us right!

    We have an amazing view of Sugarloaf at the end of the road from our hostel and we also caught our first glimpse of Christ the Redeemer from Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon (a stunning lake in the district of Lagoa.

    We are fully embracing eating on a budget with a $1.29 (34p) packet of chicken super noodles for lunch and some pasta and tomato sauce for dinner!
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  • Day 2 Rio - Christ the Redeemer

    5. huhtikuuta 2017, Brasilia ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Today we went to see the big man himself Christ the Redeemer. It was a perfect sunny day with not a cloud in the sky so the views over Rio were incredible. Unfortunately due to technical difficulties and a slight school boy error we have very few photos although we did manage to get a couple before it died.

    We finished the afternoon off with a trip to Ipanema beach, which is just next to Copacabana, to make a start on the tan (we were definitely the palest gringos on the entire beach!)
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  • Day 3 - Rio

    6. huhtikuuta 2017, Brasilia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Having fully mastered the metro in Rio we decided to give the bus a go to visit Jardim Botanico. Fortunately for us, we had the nicest bus driver ever who shouted down the bus when we tried to get off the bus a stop early and then when we did get off, kept beeping his horn and pointing us in the right direction towards the botanical gardens!

    Within the first five minutes we spotted a hummingbird and 2 toucans! We didn't spot anymore for the rest of the time we were there so we felt very lucky to see them!

    The gardens were absolutely beautiful!

    This afternoon we did a walking tour of the Rocinha favela. Our guide was a chap called Wellington who used to live in the favela. The locals travel up and down the favela on mototaxi's so in order for us to get a true taste of favela life we jumped on the back of a bike and were driven up to the top of the mountain, weaving in and out of traffic and pedestrians. Literally everyone in the favela travels this way, including little old ladies with their groceries! Crazy!

    From the top you had an amazing view over the city and could see the contrast between the favela and the city. From the top, we walked back down through narrow streets between the houses which are all built on top of each other. We learnt a lot about the history of the favela and the way of life there. The government provides the favelas with water and electricity but in order to connect a home to the grid the locals connect themselves to the main power lines. The result is a messy spider web of wires travelling in all directions. Whilst we were there we saw a man on a step ladder with a pair of pliers playing around with the wires - terrifying!

    Tomorrow we leave Rio and head to Ilha Grande. Our parting thoughts on Rio are that it is a much friendlier city than the horror stories portray. We haven't felt unsafe at all and have really enjoyed our time here.
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  • Ilha Grande

    8. huhtikuuta 2017, Brasilia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    After 3 hours on a minibus followed by 30 mins on a boat, we have landed in Ilha Grande. It looks a bit like Jurassic Park without the dinosaurs (think about he scene where they approach the island for the first time with the John Williams score).

    We are staying in the Biergarten Hostel which is really nice. The staff are friendly, it's nice and clean and in general has a much better vibe than the last hostel so we feel much more at home here.

    We arrived on the island late afternoon so didn't do much yesterday.

    Today we went on a 7km hike across the island through the jungle to Lopes Mendes beach. It took us around 3 hours (it was really steep and very muggy) but was very enjoyable (even Simon enjoyed it 😂). And the beach at the end was totally worth it! We have never been on a beach like it. It felt a bit like when Leonardo di Caprio finally discovered the beach!

    After an hour of sunbathing and a brief dip in the sea we opted to get the boat back to have some dinner. Dinner today was a very delicious home cooked meal of rice, carrot, onion and courgette (at least that's what we think it was) in a tomato sauce! Poor Simon misses meat!
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  • Day 2 and 3 - Ilha Grande

    10. huhtikuuta 2017, Brasilia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We didn't manage to write a post yesterday as we got ourselves into a rather long game of Phase 10 with an American guy called Kevin. I can proudly say I (Blake) won!

    On our second day on the island we hiked to a waterfall Cachoeira da Feiticeira. The water was freezing but was very refreshing after the long hike up. It was so humid yesterday, I don't think we have ever sweated so much! It was like when you go into the tropical animals bit at the zoo or as Simon said his family trip to the Eden Project when he was 12!

    After our dip, we hiked to the nearest beach and spent a few hours there before hiking back to our hostel. On the way back we saw lots of little marmosets which were super cute!

    Today we opted for a much lazier day and instead of hiking, opted to take the boat back to Lopes Mendes for a relaxing day on the beach. I'm so glad we did as on the way there we saw lots of dolphins swimming near the boat! We were only discussing the other day how we have never seen dolphins in real life so it was amazing!
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  • Day 4 - Ilha Grande

    11. huhtikuuta 2017, Brasilia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Today we went with Blake's suggestion of hiking to some prison ruins. Apparently hiking to the highest peak on the island without a guide (after the last people that did it got lost and weren't found for 5 days) wasn't a sensible idea 😒

    The prison we visited used to house some of the most dangerous criminals in Brazil. The nearby beach was called Dois Rios which means two rivers. It gets its name from the two river that run down either side of the beach into the sea.

    Tonight we are adding frankfurters into the usual mix of courgette, carrot and tomato!

    Number of steps on the island:

    Day 1 - 15,651 (9.8km)
    Day 2 - 17,733 (10.4km)
    Day 3 - 7,733 (4.5km)
    Day 4 - 25,208 (16.4km)

    I think we may have overdone it on the hiking!

    Number of Spanish ladies we have annoyed due to being English and not speaking Spanish - 1

    Our new roommate was here for not more than 5 minutes! It was too cold so she cranked the temperature up on our air con. She was also annoyed with the lack of free bottled water so that she had to boil her own! She then checked out complaining that everyone spoke English! Ciao!
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  • Paraty

    14. huhtikuuta 2017, Brasilia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We picked the perfect time to leave Ilha Grande as it was torrential rain all day! We jumped back on the boat and caught a minibus to Paraty. Unfortunately Simons travel towel didn't make it with us as he left it in the previous hostel!

    Paraty is a historic town with cobbled streets and lots of donkeys! You have to concentrate when you walk around as the cobbles are ridiculously large and very uneven!

    We are staying at Leo's Clan Beach Hostel which is amazing! Leo has been looking after us and took us to a hostel party on our first night for a couple of caipirinhas which was fun!

    Yesterday it rained all day so we had a very lazy day as there isn't much in the way of rainy day activities in Paraty! Leo put on a movie and popcorn in the morning so we did that before venturing out for lunch. For lunch we had delicious dostadas which are like toasted flatbreads. We then went for dinner in the evening with a couple of people we met in the hostel (Ciaran from Ireland and Lisa from Germany) before coming back and having a huge game of Phase 10!
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  • Day 2 & 3 - Paraty

    15. huhtikuuta 2017, Brasilia ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    The sun decided to put its hat on for a little bit yesterday so we ventured to a nearby beach. As soon as we got there we realised we had forgotten a towel so wandered back to get one after half an hour and then went to a much closer beach for a few hours. It was pretty overcast but still a good temperature to have a nap. After a long deliberation as to whether you can get sunburnt through the cloud, Simon is proof that you can get REALLY sunburnt if you don't put suncream on!

    In the evening we did a walking tour and learnt a lot about the history of Paraty. As it's Easter weekend there are a lot of Easter related services happening around the town. There are approximately 5 alters depicting the various events of Christ hidden behind doors throughout the town. You wouldn't know they were there and they only open twice a year on Holy Tuesday and Good Friday. We were therefore very lucky to see them on Friday as they won't be open again until next year!

    Leo who owns the hostel we are staying in plays in a band and they were playing at a nearby hostel in the evening so we went to show our support which was fun!

    Today we went on a boat trip which was good. We stopped at various places and got to jump off the top of the boat and swim in the sea. We also spotted 2 turtles which was incredible!

    Leo cooked up a delicious BBQ for dinner with the most amazing steak and Brazilian sausage! We are now quite rapidly slipping into a food coma so are going to chill at the hostel this evening.
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  • Day 4 & 5 - Paraty

    18. huhtikuuta 2017, Brasilia ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    We spent our Easter Sunday visiting Toboga Falls, a waterfall with a natural slide! It was so much fun to slide down!

    We followed this by a trip to the Cachaca distillery. Cachaca is a drink made from palm sugar and famous in Paraty. For R$5 (around £1.30) we had a tour around the distillery where they showed us how they made the different types of cachaca. We then got to taste them all and after about 8 shots we headed back to our hostel.

    On Monday we jumped on the bus to Trinidade which has some gorgeous beaches. Unfortunately we didn't get to witness any of these as the moment we stepped off the bus there was a torrential downpour. After hiding under a shop canopy for an hour and the rain showing no signs of stopping, we hopped back on the bus back to Paraty. All in all a very unsuccessful day! On the plus side though, we got some laundry done and now smell fresh and clean again.

    That concludes our time here in Paraty! It's been a lot of fun! Now to pack our bags again and start our 18 hours of coach journeys (overnight) to Florianopolis via São Paulo.
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  • Florianopolis

    20. huhtikuuta 2017, Brasilia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Having now experienced long distance, overnight bus travel in Brazil we have learnt the following:

    1. All buses come with at least one crazy old Portuguese lady.

    2. There is a reason why the seats behind the reserved over 60's seats are free (refer to point 1).

    3. Sleeping on overnight sleeper buses is difficult (for me, Simon will sleep anywhere).

    But we survived the 6 hour bus journey to São Paulo and then the 12 hour bus journey to Florianopolis where we will stay for the next few days. Another beach town however there are some nice hikes and city spots to visit.

    The forecast for today was rain so we did what any Brit would do and put on jeans and a rain coat and headed to the bus station. Typically when we got off the bus in town the sun came out and we looked like the daft overdressed tourists sweating profusely!

    We carried on though and pottered around the centre, visiting the historic market (Mercado Publico) and a very pretty museum, Museu Historico de Santa Catarina, which was formerly the colonial governor's palace.

    We then headed to the iconic bridge of Florianopolis which is undergoing some serious repairs so didn't quite live up to our expectations.

    Fingers crossed the sun will be out again tomorrow so we can find a nearby beach where Simon can give surfing a go!
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  • Day 2 & 3 - Florianopolis

    22. huhtikuuta 2017, Brasilia ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Our second day in Florianopolis was dry but still pretty overcast so we took the ferry boat across the lake to a little fishing village. We visited a little waterfall and then mooched around the village before hopping back on the boat. There are lots of small villages along the lake, some of which have no access by road, so the boat acts as a taxi for the locals.

    The day before we had spotted this pretty yummy looking coffee bar so we decided to treat ourselves. They were a treat as these coffees were like no coffees you have ever had before. Simon chose a latte, but it was no ordinary latte. For starters it came in a giant wine glass on which Nutella was thickly spread around the glass. It also came with a side of another giant blob of Nutella on the end of a long spoon! I opted for the coffee milkshake which was made up of coffee, milk, ice cream and chocolate sauce. They were both a taste sensation! And needless to say we felt a bit sick afterwards but they were totally worth it.

    Then just as we thought our day couldn't get any better we made another amazing discovery. Let me set the scene a little bit for you first. Supermarkets in Brazil are rubbish! They are quite small, don't really have much in them and the limited fruit and veg they do have is a bit manky. And don't even get Simon started on the meat. It looks disgusting, smells worse and more often than not can be found accompanied by flies. You can therefore imagine our delight when we stumbled upon a decent supermarket that actually half resembled a supermarket back home. The shelves were full of things you would actually want to buy and there was a plethora of fresh fruit and vegetables. There was also mince and fresh chicken breasts (not frozen like every other supermarket). We actually felt like kids at Christmas discovering a stocking full of presents at the end of our beds!

    Today we awoke to sunshine streaming through the windows and Simon waking me up for a change, excited to go to the beach. We went to a beach called Mole beach (pronounced in the Austin Powers way). What Brazil lacks in supermarkets, it sure makes up for in beaches.
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  • Day 4 - Florianopolis

    24. huhtikuuta 2017, Brasilia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We decided to stay an extra night in Florianopolis so that we didn't waste a beautifully sunny day travelling. We visited Joaquina beach which is famous for sand boarding. After a day of sunbathing we headed to the dunes to rent boards and give sand boarding a go. We hired a board which you sit down on and then another one which is more like a snowboard. It was really fun but climbing back up the dunes afterwards was exhausting so we were pooped after an hour. We missed the last bus back from the beach so we decided to walk back to our hostel. The walk was flat and it's nice and cool when the sun goes down so it was a really nice walk and only about 4km.

    In the evening we decided to treat ourselves to dinner out. We went to a very yummy Greek place which was very reasonably priced and had Greek salad and souvlaki which was delicious!

    Today we are making our way to Iguazu Falls which will be our final stop in Brazil before we cross over into Argentina.
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  • Foz do Iguaçu

    26. huhtikuuta 2017, Brasilia ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    What was meant to be a 14 1/2 hour coach journey, turned into 17 hours and a bus swap due to technical difficulties. However with 2 very numb bottoms we made it to Foz do Iguacu.

    After staying in 6 bed dorms for the last 2 weeks we decided to treat ourselves to a private room with an en-suite. Our room comes with a pool view (it's literally outside the door). And who said hosteling wasn't glamorous?!

    Around 4pm we decided to head to the Tres Fronteiras (Three Borders) where you can see the rivers that separate Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil. Each of the three borders have erected an obelisk painted in the national colours of their country. The lady at the hostel advised us that it was great to see at sunset however just as the sun was setting some big grey clouds decided to move in and spoil the show. By staying for the underwhelming sunset, we also missed the last bus home and as the alternative of, in Simon's words, "walking through the ghetto for an hour" wasn't very appealing, we had to pay for a taxi which was a bit annoying.

    In the evening we ventured out to the supermarket to pick up some bits for dinner. We didn't think it was possible but we found an even better supermarket than the last one! Unfortunately, despite access to a vast variety of exotic goods, we still managed to cook ourselves a very tasteless dinner of rice, vegetables and eggs. To quote Simon again, "I could have vomited on my plate and eaten it and it would have tasted better".

    We then spent the rest of the evening watching a huge storm unfold. Quite possibly the loudest thunder we have ever heard right on top of us with flashes of lightening that lit up the entire sky.

    Today was the day we were really looking forward to and the reason why we came here, Iguazu Falls. It was pretty overcast in the morning but the sun was due to come out in the afternoon, so to kill some time we decided to visit a Buddhist Temple which has 120 giant statues, It was a bit random but free so we decided to give it a go. At the very least we enjoyed imitating the statues.

    As promised, the sun came out and we headed to the falls. There is a scenic 1.5 km walk that you take to towards whats they call the Devils Throat. From the moment we stepped onto the walkway the views were breathtaking. At 80m high (not quite the 60km wide like i tried to tell my Dad) and the largest in the world, they really are incredible and like nothing we have ever seen before. The closer we got to the Devils Throat the wetter we became and after putting on our raincoats we ventured across the walkways, right into the middle of the falls. We were soaked!

    Only around 20% of the falls sit on the Brazilian side so tomorrow we are crossing the border to Argentina to view the falls from the other side.
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  • Puerto Iguazú

    29. huhtikuuta 2017, Argentiina ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Chau Brazil, Ola Argentina!

    Our first border crossing went much smoother than we expected. We had to get a bus to the border and stop with Brazilian customs to get our passport and visa stamped. We then had to wait for the next bus to take us across to Argentina who amazingly stopped and waited for us while we went through customs there!

    After the last 3 months of working with Brazilian reals we now have to get our head around Argentine pesos. My mental arithmetic is certainly improving.

    We arrived at our hostel around 1:30pm which was too late to do the falls so we popped out to grab some lunch and had a quiet afternoon at the hostel trying to work out our route through Argentina. In the evening we went to this cute little cafe called Lemongrass for some dinner which was super cheap and pretty delicious.

    We then got up early the next day and headed to the falls again. The Argentinian side of the falls is a lot bigger than the Brazilian side. There are 3 main trails that we walked around. The first one took us to a spot where you can look down on the Devils Throat (where we had been in Brazil) and then we walked around another trail which took you along the top of the main falls before stopping for a bit of lunch. We decided to eat inside as the park is full of coaties, which are the fluffier, misleadingly cute equivalent of British seagulls. Their main goal in life is to steal your food by any means possible. They can also carry rabies so we wanted to stay as far away from them as possible!

    After lunch we walked along a lower trail around the falls as we booked ourselves into the boat trip that takes you right into the waterfall. The boat trip was amazing! We got completely soaked but it was so much fun! Simon has some cracking go pro footage.

    All in all another fantastic day out seeing the spellbinding falls. The sheer size, power and noise the water makes is hard to put into words. There are also rainbows at every turn which is lush!

    After the long day at the falls we popped to the supermarket to get some quick and easy food for dinner and discovered cheap Argentinian wine! We were joined by a number of other people staying in the hostel and before we knew it, one bottle turned into 3! I am feeling very smug as by some miracle I am feeling fresh. Simon Thatcher however is struggling today and has put himself back to bed in a hammock as we had to check out of our room. As you can imagine, he is also particularly excited about our 16 hour coach journey to Buenos Aires later. The words "I don't think we should go to Mendoza as I am never drinking wine again" have crossed his lips on a couple of occasions this morning already.
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  • Buenos Aires

    1. toukokuuta 2017, Argentiina ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Our coach to Buenos Aires was luxurious in comparison to our Brazilian coach travel. The seats are double the size, you get given a pillow and a blanket, as well as a hot (well warm) dinner, breakfast and snacks. You can also watch movies, the majority are in Spanish but you can watch them all the same.

    After arriving in Buenos Aires we grabbed an uber to our airbnb apartment. It's nice to have some space to ourselves after spending the last month in hostels.

    Like England, Argentina also have a bank holiday on the first Monday in May, National Worker Day. This holiday is taken very seriously and therefore pretty much everywhere shuts for the day, even many restaurants and cafes. Because of this, Buenos Aires was a ghost town! It was very strange.

    On the Monday we did a free walking tour of the Recoleta area. Our guide Juan Cruz was very knowledgeable and we learnt a lot about the city. When walking around the city it is hard not to notice the varied architecture. You can find Parisian style mansions next to ugly 70's tower blocks, next to neo-gothic buildings. Our tour finished outside the Recoleta cemetery. This is where famous Argentinians are laid to rest in large, ornate mausoleums. It is like a small city for the dead with rows and rows of little churches. It was fascinating and eerie all at the same time and nothing like we have ever experienced before.

    In the evening we went to see La Bomba de Tiempo, a 17 piece improvisational drum group which were amazing! In addition to the drums they have shakers, maracas and at one point a trumpet.
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  • Day 2 & 3 - Buenos Aires

    2. toukokuuta 2017, Argentiina ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    In an attempt to make it a little easier for us to communicate with the locals we booked ourselves on to a 3 hour Spanish crash course. Our lesson didn't start until 2:30pm so we had a lazy morning before heading to our lesson. Our Spanish teacher Macarena (like the song) was lovely. Simon left the class with some basic Spanish however all I left with was a headache. It was definitely worth it, if only for the numbers as now we have a rough idea of how much money we need to hand over without just handing over notes until they tell us to stop!

    The next morning we joined a tour of La Boca. La Boca is a bright and colourful neighbourhood and one of the first areas that housed the huge number of immigrants that entered Argentina via its port between 1880 and 1930. These immigrants arrived with nothing so to make money they got jobs in the busy port and on the railroads. They then built their homes from discarded materials from the shipyard and railway and painted them in this mismatch of colours using leftover paint. The tour taught us a lot about the history of the area and Argentina. The most harrowing story was of the disappeared which was still happening only a couple of years before we were born. The military government at the time kidnapped anyone that was thought to be a socialist / left wing / intellectuals and tortured them using electricity. When deemed of no further use they gave them large doses of sedatives and threw them out the back of military planes over the river. Because the bodies were never found, the government managed to get away with this for a very long time.

    When in Argentina do as the Argentines do and something they do with passion is the tango. We opted for a lesson, dinner and show at The Ventana Tango Show in San Telmo. My inability to move my arms and legs independently meant that my attempt to tango was a cross between a thunderbird and a baby giraffe learning to walk. Si said it was like dragging around a scarecrow. I think Lord of the Dance here is just being mean for adding that into the blog post. Even our tango instructor laughed hysterically at my inability to relax and let Simon lead me! Needless to say I won't be giving up the day job. It was however one of the funniest hours of my life. Simon, despite dreading doing the lesson also really enjoyed himself although his joyous cries of "perfecto" were met by more laughs from our instructor.

    Our tango lesson was followed by a yummy three course dinner. To start I had a tomato and mozzarella salad, followed by steak and ice cream. Simon opted for the empanadas, steak and a traditional Argentine custard dish. The steak was divine! This was accompanied of course by some Argentinian malbec.

    The show was a mixture of tango, singing, a crazy man on a ukulele type instrument that had 10 strings and another crazy man that danced whilst spinning ropes at a ridiculous speed that hit the floor at precise times interacting with his tap like dancing. It was a lot of fun and we both thoroughly enjoyed it.
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  • Day 4 - Buenos Aires

    4. toukokuuta 2017, Argentiina ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Our last day in Buenos Aires before catching an overnight bus to Mendoza.

    The people who own the airbnb apartment that we have been staying in kindly let us stay until the evening so that we didn't have to carry our bags around with us all day. This was great and meant that we gained an extra day of sightseeing.

    We packed our bags in the morning and despite neither of us having very much stuff it's amazing how much we had managed to spread around the entire apartment!

    We then went to visit a beautiful Bookshop called La Ateneo that is inside a former theatre. It has been voted one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world and I can certainly vouch for that.

    In the afternoon we joined another free walking tour of the Retiro district of the city. Here we saw the congress building, the presidential pink house, the obelisk and many more examples of the city's mixed architecture. We also learnt about Eva Peron, a former First Lady who died of cancer at the age of 33. Despite dying so young she achieved a lot, including championing women's suffrage. The famous song Don't Cry for me Argentina is written about her and the speech she gave to the city before she died. Her grave is also in the Recoleta cemetery which we fortunately managed to stumble across during our visit. At the end of our tour which finished outside of the pink house, our tour guide Fernando said that if we liked military ceremony's we should stick around as at 6pm every day they take down the Argentinian flag which flys outside the presidential palace. As it was only 10 minutes away we decided to wait. Now being British and having seen the changing of the guards at Buckingham Palace I was expecting something exciting. What we got instead was a guy in militarily uniform who causally walked across to the flag pole and attempted to lower the flag. He couldn't get it to work so he wondered back to the palace and returned 5 minutes later with his mate. The two of them tugged on the ropes a bit and hit the side of the pole but with no success gave up and left. We also decided to give up at this point and caught the subte (the subway) back to our apartment.

    One thing I would also like to comment on about our stay in Buenos Aires is the Mosquitos. The Mosquitos here are on steroids! The were all over the news as Buenos Aires has had an invasion of the evil critters (that still bite you through your clothes) from Patagonia as the city is still unusually warm for this time of year. We will definitely be leaving with more than our fair share of bites!
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  • Mendoza

    5. toukokuuta 2017, Argentiina ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    When buying our coach ticket to Mendoza we managed to get ourselves a suite for less money than than the semi cama or cama. A suite is a bit like business class on a plane so we actually got to sleep horizontally which was a real treat. They also served wine which is always a bonus. We could certainly get used to travelling in a suite!

    The journey to Mendoza took around 13 hours, arriving around 10:30am. We opted for another Airbnb, this time staying with a lovely lady called Val and her 2 cats Buffy and Mancini. There was also another lady called Lisa from Denmark staying as well as Ursula from Canada.

    After a quick shower we headed out for a wander and to find some lunch (a must do when arriving in any new place before someone gets the hanger). We walked around the Plaza Independecia which is a pretty park in the middle of the city centre before settling on a lunch of empanadas and calzone. This was washed down with some delicious gelato. I opted for white chocolate and pistachio and Simon had dulce de leche (a delicious caramel sauce that South Americans are obsessed with) and cookies and cream.

    As you don't get the best nights sleep on buses, we were pretty shattered so had a lazy evening and watched some of The Fall (our newest Netflix addiction).
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  • Day 2 - Mendoza

    6. toukokuuta 2017, Argentiina ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Waheey I finally get to write on 'our' blog. Today is (was) Blake's birthday. The big ole 31 or trinta y uno as we are now slowly starting to learn our numbers. We had no alarm set which was nice and were in no rush to get up.

    Now before we left we had a lovely dinner round Danny's and Libby gave me a birthday card from them which she asked me to smuggle in my bag until the big day. Luckily I some how managed to do just that. And even better, Libs left it open with no name on the back so if found it would look less suspicious. It also allowed me to scribble my name in nice and fresh whilst Blake had jumped in the shower. I don't think that this was noticed...

    We had bought some food the day before to make a picnic and headed off to the park Portones del Parque General San Martín for lunch. We arrived at the park and headed to the information centre to grab a map, we then chose to head towards the big lake in the middle for the feast. By feast I mean some posher bread than we were used to and some pâté with some cheap and cheerful crisps on the side. I know what you're all thinking, this guy knows how to treat a lady!! After we let the food go down we continued to walk around the park until we got to Eva Perons house. If you remember Eva featured in a previous post and was a pretty big deal in Argentina. We headed back to our Airbnb from the park as that afternoon we had booked to do a sunset horse ride with an Argentinian BBQ and Wine after.

    We were picked up in a mini bus and driven out in to the desert like area before entering a winery where the horses were kept. We scribbled down our details for the 'insurance' and were led outside to meet our new friends. These four legged friends seemed very tame and well behaved but we were told one important rule! Don't let your horse eat!! As soon as you do this he will take advantage of you by stopping when he wants to eat, the frequency of which will increase until your horse just won't move anymore! With this in mind we were helped onto our steed and off we went. Out the winery gate, across the road and onto the path leading up the foothills. I was about third in the line and between Blake and I was the slowest horse ever with a pretty terrified English lad on. He was told to hit his horse with the stick every 30 seconds so he would keep up but I'm pretty sure he was happy with that pace so Blake was about 200m behind most of the way up. As we got higher and the sun got lower the views started to get more and more breath taking. We finally made it to the highest peak of 1100m where we all lined up for a group shot.

    On the way down we were reordered so that the horses wouldn't kick each other on the way down. One horse in particular liked to kick most of the others but apparently mine was safe so we got lumbered behind him. It didn't matter for too long as the English lad from before whose hose was fast asleep before had woken up and decided to run down half the hill over taking most and plonking himself near the front much to the dismay of its rider who I'm sure was almost screaming as he ploughed passed us (another important rule, do not let the horses overtake at all costs as they may start fighting). The way back down was even more beautiful than the way up as we were facing in the direction that the sun was going down. With the cloud there were a lush mixture of reds and purples all over the horizon.

    Now on the way down Blake was behind me and I heard a loud 'oh no' and some laughing. If you remember the number one rule from earlier you can imagine my entertainment when I turned round to see Blakes horse tucking into some yummy grass with her yanking the reigns with one hand and tapping him on the arse with the other. I'm pretty sure he took no notice and only carried on when he wanted to! From then on it was a constant hilarious battle to make it to the end!

    We did finally make it to the end where we were greeted by some wonderful smelling MEAT on the BBQ!! I had been looking forward to this meal ever since we booked it. We had a mixture of sausages and about a quarter of a cow in various cuts and sizes accompanied by some delicious potato things and some salad which I obviously didn't touch. We also had help yourself red wine to wash it all down with :)

    After we finished eating our guide grabbed a guitar and played some songs which we all got involved in. The red wine by this point was helping us all ;) my particular favourite was hit me baby one more time by our Britney! After we had consumed as much as we could and sang all we could we headed home.
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  • Day 3 - Mendoza

    7. toukokuuta 2017, Argentiina ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Following our evening on horseback and anticipating sore bottoms we opted for a spa day at Termas Cacheuta.

    To get to the Termas Cacheuta, it's around an hours drive through the middle of the beautiful Andes mountains. The spa is 100% natural thermal water and there are a number of different pools both inside and outside that you can lounge around in. It was a beautifully sunny day but the temperature has dropped a bit so it was easy to lounge around in the bath like pools. A couple of the pools were boiling though and we only managed a few minutes in them! One of the best bits of the spa however were the incredible views!

    A perfect, relaxing day!
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  • Day 4 - Mendoza

    8. toukokuuta 2017, Argentiina ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Today was the day we had both been looking forward to the most, the wine tour (well second for Simon after the BBQ).

    It was an early start with the guide picking us up at 8:30am. After driving around the city picking up everyone else from their various hotels we arrived at our first winery, Don Manuel Villafane just before 10am.

    Don Manual is a relatively small boutique winery but despite this it seemed like there were miles and miles of vines. The grapes are not grown on a canopy like we originally expected and the way my Grandad used to grow them in his greenhouse. Instead they are grown VSP or vertical standing position. This enables them to control the quality a lot more but means you get a much smaller harvest. When we were driving into the winery we noticed there was a rose at the end of every other row of grapes which they explained to us was an alarm system to protect the harvest from bugs. The bugs would always go for the red roses first so they would know if there was a problem before they started attacking the grapes.

    We were then taken into the winery to see the next step in the wine making process. Once the grapes are picked they are crushed and put into steel tanks with yeast. We each got to try some of the Chardonnay they were making in the steel tanks (yes it was only around 10:30am at this point). The wine wasn't finished yet so it was cloudy and tasted a bit strange but it was interesting to try it. The wine stays in the tanks for around 12 months before it is either filtered and bottled or put into French oak barrels to age, depending on what kind of wine they are planning on making. We were shown the cellar with all the oak barrels as well as the bottling and labelling machine. The lady on the bottling machine was sticking the labels on my hand as the machine had broken but this also gives you an idea of how small the winery actually is.

    Then on to the fun bit, the wine tasting which we learned is a lot more in depth than we imagined.

    Step 1 - You tip the glass slightly and hold it over a white piece of paper to see the true colour of the wine. What we noticed is that the longer the wine has aged in the barrels, the deeper the colour.

    Step 2 - Take a sniff and try and find the various scents that the lady was explaining to us.

    Step 3 - Swirl the wine around in the glass and smell it again. This should release further flavours (although it pretty much just smelt of red wine).

    Step 4 - Check the legs. For those uneducated wine folk like ourselves, you swirl the wine in the glass again and watch to see how long the drops of wine take to fall down the side of the glass. The slower they fall the higher the percentage of alcohol in the wine.

    Step 5 - We finally got to actually taste the wine however you had to swill the first mouthful around your mouth to wake up your taste buds, whilst sucking in air (we didn't do that bit for fear of spitting out very expensive wine).

    Step 5 - Take a normal sip of wine and try and work out the various flavours.

    We tried two different wines during the tasting, a Cabernet Frank which was a reserve and a Merlot which was a grand reserve (what kind of reserve it is depends on how long it has been aged for in the barrel and then the bottle afterwards).

    Our second stop was an olive oil farm and factory called Pasrai, where we were shown how they make extra virgin olive oil. After showing us the process we got to taste a number of the olive oils they make:

    - Extra virgin olive oil drizzled on bread

    - Olive oil infused with orange in bread (this was incredible, we are going to have to try and hunt some down when we get home)

    - Olive oil infused with garlic drizzled on bread

    - White bread with green olive paste drizzled with basil olive oil

    - White bread with tomato paste drizzled with oregano olive oil

    - White bread with a sun dried tomato on top (even Si thought this was delicious however he has been suffering from a cold / feather duvet allergy so perhaps he couldn't actually taste it)

    - White bread with black bean paste

    Pasrai also made dried fruits so for dessert we had some delicious sultanas, raisins and chocolate covered raisins (we ate a lot of these).

    We then headed off to our second winery, Luigi Bosca, a second and third generation, family run business. This is considered a medium sized winery so was a lot bigger than Don Manuel Villafane. It's also considered a DOC for Malbec. To put this into context only 4 out of roughly 1000 wineries in Mendoza have this title. It is to do with the way the entire process is controlled to a very high specification.

    We had another tour of the winery and learnt a bit about their history before moving on to some more tasting. We got to try:

    - La Linda, which was a young Chardonnay which smelt very sweet like passion fruit but was incredibly dry. They call this wine 'the liar' (it sounded a lot better in Spanish) because of this.

    - One of their Signature wines which was a Cab Sav mixed with Malbec. Each barrel is used for around 4/5 years before it is sold. It is therefore used around 3/4 times. This wine was made in a French oak barrel that was in its second use. It was then aged for 1 year. They used a 50/50 mix of 2 different types of grapes from different places. The grapes are aged separately and then they make the blend before maturing in the bottle for 6 months.

    - Gala no 1 (a celebration wine that was 85% Malbec and 15% something I can't remember) aged for 14 months in French oak and in the bottle for one year.

    - Our last wine was an incredibly sweet dessert wine. It is so sweet as it is made from a late harvest of grapes. The grapes are German but grown in Mendoza. The wine literally tasted of apple juice.

    Our third and last winery was Alta Vista which is run by two French brothers. The winery was gorgeous and we were shown to tables in the garden where we would have a picnic style lunch which of course was accompanied by more wine.

    We had drunk a lot of wine by this point so we have no idea what any of the wines were called but we do know that they were delicious and our glasses (we had three lined up at one point) were never empty.

    We do however remember the food which was amazing. To start we had 3 delicious empanadas, one vegetable in some yummy spices, a beef and chilli and a blue cheese and leek. This was followed by a really tasty beef and vegetable stew, in which the beef fell apart in your mouth and was cooked in wine of course. For dessert we had a selection of mini puddings: a forest fruits mousse on a shortbread type biscuit, a passion fruit mousse on a shortbread type biscuit, two different chocolates and a very lemony macaroon. It was lovely to eat in the garden in the sunshine.

    After lunch they gave us a tour of the winery which was very interesting. Apparently you can buy their wine in Sainsbury's in the U.K. so next time you're shopping have a look out for a bottle of Alta Vista, you won't be disappointed.

    That brings us to our end of our stay in Mendoza however Val (our Airbnb host) had one job for us, we had to take a selfie with Buffy and Mancini. Whilst the cats were very friendly, they apparently weren't a great fan of selfies as you will see from our picture.
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  • Santiago

    9. toukokuuta 2017, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Our bus to Santiago was at 9am so we awoke to an early alarm. It's not actually that far from Mendoza so we didn't need an overnight bus. By not far I mean it was only 7 hours which seems like nothing to us now.

    We had been told that the journey to Santiago would be really nice as it takes you through the mountains however we didn't expect it to be as beautiful as it was. For hours all we could see were snow capped mountains, it was amazing. The roads were narrow and wound themselves through the mountains. On some of the downhill bits, we had to take a few deep breaths though as the bus got very close to the edge!

    I mentioned earlier that the journey was only meant to be 7 hours however that does not factor in the ridiculous amount of time it takes you to get across the border. Whilst the border crossing from Brazil to Argentina consisted of a quick stamp in the passport and putting your bags through a scanner that no one was monitoring, took less than 5 minutes, the Chilean border was a whole different kettle of fish.

    First you have to queue up to get your passport stamped and then you have to wait for them to get all the bags off the bus so they can be scanned. There were 2 coaches in front of us and they only do one coach at a time so this took forever. After the luggage in the hold had gone through we were all lined up like cattle with our hand luggage which then also had to go through the scanners. After what felt like an eternity we were allowed back on the bus and sent on our merry way.

    When we eventually arrived in Santiago, and after Simon got called a gringo (followed by something in Spanish which I have a suspicion wasn't very nice) by the luggage man for not tipping (apparently you have to tip the guy who passes you your luggage from the bus, which seems absolutely ludicrous as he literally passes you your bag and therefore no different they getting your shopping out of the boot of your car) we navigated our way to the subway and headed towards our hostel. We are staying in an 8 bed dorm here however the place is huge and the dorm is split into 2 parts so it's really not that bad at all.
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  • Day 2 - Santiago

    10. toukokuuta 2017, Chile ⋅ 🌫 11 °C

    Whenever we get to a new place, we always try to do a free walking tour. You learn so much about the area from a local perspective and you only have to tip them at the end so it's a really cheap way to see the city. They are also a great way to find your feet and find out about the various things the city has to offer. In light of this we decided to spend our first full day in the city doing the tour.

    It was a 4 hour tour which covered many of the main sights. Our guide Franco was amazing! He knew so much about the city and Chilean history. I feel like I now know way more about the history of Chile than of the UK.

    The tour started at Santiago's main square, Plaza de Armas on which we saw the Cathedral and City Hall. The tour also took us to the Old Congress Building, The Government House, Santiago Stock Exchange, the Opera House, the Bellavista neighbourhood and the Pablo Neruda museum.

    We were also introduced to Santiago's 'cafe con piernas' which means 'coffee with legs'. Now Chile has never been famous for coffee and nobody used to drink the stuff as it tasted terrible. That was until someone opened a coffee with legs. You still get a lousy cup of coffee however it's served to you by a beautiful lady wearing a very short skirt. Some of the cafe's have blacked out windows so they look more like a place you'd find in Amsterdam than a coffee shop! Apparently they tried something similar for women called coffee with three legs but it only lasted a couple of weeks.

    There are a lot of stray dogs in Santiago and South America in general. A local community in Santiago have come together to help these dogs and built them some kennels in the middle of one of the parks so they have somewhere dry to sleep when it rains. They also provide them with food and pay for them to be done to stop them having puppies and increasing the number of dogs on the street. In Santiago people also love to dress their dogs up so pretty much every dog you see has an outfit. We saw a minion in the park as well as a bumble bee outfit on a chihuahua. When they don't want the outfits anymore they donate them to the street dogs. On our tour we met Gary who waits for Franco at a particular place every day when he does his tours. Apparently the day before Gary was wearing a cape!

    After the tour we headed back to our hotel, popping into a few shops Franco had pointed out during the tour on a street called Merced. We also stopped off to grab some bits for dinner and discovered frozen veg which has revolutionised our meals. Pasta and sauce tastes so much better with added onion, peppers, carrot and garlic which comes chopped in a perfect sized frozen bag. It also tastes better and fresher than some of the fresh vegetables we have eaten elsewhere.
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  • Day 3 - Santiago

    11. toukokuuta 2017, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Today we decided to have a cultural day and visit some of the museums that Franco showed us on the walking tour.

    We started at the Pre-Columbia Art Museum and ended up staying there for hours. Simon and I (especially Simon) sometimes get a bit bored when looking round museums but this one was really interesting. The exhibits were great and we learnt a lot about the Mapuche culture and other indigenous people of Chile.

    After the museum, we grabbed ourselves some rolls and cream cheese (staple traveller lunch) before heading out again for some more sightseeing.

    We strolled over to the Bellavista district which is the hipster area of Santiago that we had briefly visited on our tour, and had a wander around Santa Lucia Hill. At the top there is a castle and when the weather is good it's a great viewpoint to see the city and the surrounding mountains. Unfortunately the weather hasn't been great so we didn't get the picturesque views we had hoped for. There were some pretty sketchy steps up to the look out though (very steep, narrow and slippery). Miraculous I managed to get down in one piece. Simon however slipped down a number of steps on his bottom!

    After the park we headed to the poet, Pablo Neruda's house, La Chascona. Pablo built the house for his secret love Matilde Urrita back in 1953. Pablo named the house after Matilde's crazy red hair (chascona means wild mane of hair in Chilean Spanish).

    When entering his home we were given audio guides which told us about the different rooms as we walked around. Pablo had a very quirky style so the house was fascinating to walk around. He was a great collector so there are loads of random bits and pieces all over the house. Pablo loved the sea, but being unable to swim and therefore never going in it, he based his house on a ship. There is a bar in the house which was from an old French ship as well as a long galley like dining room. Unfortunately we weren't allowed to take pictures inside. I think I am going to have to read some of his poetry now!

    After a very busy day of sightseeing and cultural stuff, we grabbed some bits for dinner and headed back to the hostel. Today's culinary delight was spaghetti bolognese accompanied by a £2 bottle of Chilean wine (we love that it is so cheap over here).
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