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avril 2017 - janvier 2018
  • Simon and Blake
Une aventure de 282 jours par Simon En savoir plus
  • Simon and Blake

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  • Day 2 - Arequipa

    17 juin 2017, Pérou ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Our walking tour yesterday started outside of a chocolate shop / workshop so we decided to book ourselves on to a chocolate making class. As you can imagine, we (mainly me) were very excited!

    It was just me and Si in the class so we had a private lesson with our teacher Adrian. Adrian was a patisserie chef by trade and there wasn't anything he didn't know about cacao! The class was called from bean to bar so we started off by picking out some 'good' beans from an enormous box of beans he threw all over the counter, which we would later be roasting. For a bean to qualify as a good bean, the shell could not be cracked in any way. This ensures that the cacao doesn't get burnt during the roasting stage. Once we had a good amount of beans, Adrian popped them in a special oven to cook. In the meantime we had a bit of a history lesson on cacao. As part of this we learnt about the first ways chocolate was consumed. As you can imagine, back in the day, chocolate was reserved for only the richest Peruvians such as the King. Back then it was consumed in the form of a hot drink called chocolatl.

    After 20 minutes, Adrian took the beans out of the oven so that we could proceed to the next stage in the process, peeling. Once we had peeled the shells off some of the cacao beans, we popped them in a pestle and mortar and ground them up until they turned into a paste. And there we had our chocolate! Adrian then made some chocolatl for us to taste. Adrian added the chocolate paste to some hot water along with a small amount of chilli powder and some sugar. It looked like muddy water and didn't taste very chocolatey. The chilli left an after burn in your throat though! Think I'll stick to the real stuff.

    We then moved down to their chocolate workshop to make our own chocolates to take home. Now the stage we missed was the stage where they separate the cacao butter from the cacao mass. All chocolate is made from 3 or 4 ingredients. For dark chocolate, you need cacao butter, cacao mass and sugar. For milk chocolate you need the same but also milk powder. It always has to be milk powder as if you used real milk it would never set!

    Downstairs they had some 70% chocolate ready for us to make our chocolates. We were given our mould and a selection of ingredients that we could mix and match to create our own flavours. There were almonds, Brazil nuts, quinoa, coca powder, chilli powder, sea salt and lots more. So Si and I set about making our concoctions and when we were ready Adrian gave us some chocolate to pour over the top of the moulds. We had to shake them to remove the air bubbles and then top the moulds up to the top where required.

    Whilst we waited for our chocolate to set we went back upstairs to do some chocolate tasting. We tried 5 chocolates in total which we had to guess if they were real or fake chocolate as well as what percentage of cacao they contained. Needless to say, me and Si smashed it and got 5 out of 5. The scary thing was that the fake chocolates really didn't smell of chocolate at all. One smelt of absolutely nothing and the smelt strongly of vanilla. The vanilla one was made by Nestle. This is also where Adrian proceeded to tell us that Cadburys isn't real chocolate. Sorry Kevin!

    At this point our chocolates were set so we popped them out of their moulds and packaged them up to take away with us. We both really enjoyed the workshop. It was really interesting and Adrian was an amazing and knowledgable teacher. I think I want to make my own chocolate when we get home!

    After our chocolate workshop we headed over to the market to get some bits for lunch and dinner and then headed back to the hostel for a lazy afternoon, but not before trying some of the cheese ice cream. The ice cream was delicious and it turns out that the lady who makes it is famous. There were loads of newspaper clippings in her shop as she had won awards for her cheese ice cream!
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  • Colca Canyon Tour

    18 juin 2017, Pérou ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We opted for the conventional tour by bus which was 2 days 1 night as we were still tired from our Machu Picchu trip. We were collected at 8.30am from our hostel with a few others from USA and Thailand, as well a Peruvian family and were on our way.

    Just before leaving Arequipa we stopped at a shop for people to use the bathroom, buy water or buy some coca leaf products to help with the altitude. Me and Blake haven't really suffered from the altitude so we didn't bother with the latter however the guide bought a big bag of leaves and demonstrated how you can chew them. It involves taking 5 or 6 leaves and wrapping them around a small sweet ash stone that comes with them. This acts as a catalyst and is supposed to help with the taste of the leaves. She then handed around a clump for us all to try. Apart from making your gum slightly numb and providing a rancid taste in your mouth neither of us could see the long term appeal and spat them out shortly after!

    Our first stop was at the entrance to the Reserve National de Aguada Blanca where we could see vicuña, alpacas and llamas. I don't know if you've seen our previous posts or Blakes phone but I think we have more than enough pictures of those!

    We had another short pit stop for the loo and a taste of Inka té. We have had coca tea which is similar to green tea just a bit stronger but Inka tea was coca leaves and 3 other plant based things. It was like growing a bush from a mug but drinking from it! I took a few mouthfuls and handed the rest to Blake.

    Our next stop was at Patapampa which was our highest point of the trip (and South America so far) at 4,910 meters. Here we could see the apachetas which are the stone piles you often see at the beach. There were hundreds of the things! This place was also the volcano look out point where you could see 8 volcanoes including Misti, Ubinas and Chachani. One of them was also smoking from the top which we were told had started 2 years ago.

    Next we drove to Chivay, the little town we would stay in before the canyon the next day. We were shown to our hostel and had some down time before heading to the hot springs.

    The springs were a nice treat but nothing in comparison to the ones we visited in our Machu Picchu trip. We hopped into the hottest pool and stayed there for the next hour or so.

    In the evening we went to a restaurant for dinner which also had a folklore show. There was a four piece band on stage and a couple dancing four traditional dances. On the first dance they pulled people from the crowd so when our food arrived we ate very slowly so as not to be dragged up. On one of the dances they even got people from the crowd to lie on the floor and whipped them. The girl was definitely eyeing me up for this but I grabbed my fork and started eating cold green beans I had left on the side of my plate. Unfortunately we didn't escape the entire performance as we were eventually pulled up into a conga type dance around the restaurant for the last dance.
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  • Day 2 - Colca Canyon Tour

    19 juin 2017, Pérou ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    The alarm went off at 5:30am and after discovering the shower was ice cold I decided that yesterday's time in the hot springs would suffice. After a wholesome breakfast of bread, coca tea and some unknown juice, we were picked up in the mini bus and headed to Colca Canyon.

    There were a couple of stops first though, in a couple of towns on route. It was very early and very cold and these towns are like every other small town in Peru so Si and I weren't particularly into it. In the first one there were some people doing some traditional dancing (it was only 7am) and some ladies offering the opportunity for a photo with more llamas, alpacas and domestic eagles. The eagles were pretty impressive but we decided against a photo. In the next town we did an obligatory walk down the short street and waited for the rest of our group to finish perusing the stalls. Before we left, our guide Lorena gave us some of the local cactus fruit to try. It's similar to a kiwi but really sour.

    We were now finally on our way to the Cruz del Condor to see the canyon. The canyon was pretty but the condors definitely stole the show. They were incredible! With a 3 meter wingspan they are huge and we could see them really close when they flew past. We could have sat and watched them for hours.

    After around an hour and a half we headed back to Chivay to grab some lunch before heading back to Arequipa. On the way back we stopped at a couple of lookouts to see the pre-Inka and Inka terraces. In Peru they create the terraces as its impossible to farm the hill otherwise. It also prevents the nutrients and minerals from being washed down the mountain side. These result in a gorgeous landscape and may even steal the show from the canyon (but not the condors).

    All in all the tour was probably the least enjoyable tour we had done. We really should have done the trekking instead but we couldn't face more walking so soon after Machu Picchu. We didn't feel like we got the true 'experience' just being ferried around from place to place in a mini bus. These kind of tours also attract a different demographic of people (yes I am being very diplomatic) so it just wasn't as fun. Karma for us being so lazy!

    The tour dropped us back in Arequipa so we headed back to our hostel as we had left our big bags there and got ourselves ready for our last overnight bus of our South American adventure.
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  • Huacachina

    20 juin 2017, Pérou ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Huacachina is a random oasis in the middle of the desert. I was disappointed to discover that despite originally being a natural oasis, they now top it up! We're staying at the Upcycled Hostel which is awesome. Everything is upcycled and the owner Lorenzo is lovely. It also has a pool, not that we've gotten in it as it's freezing! It's the perfect place to chill in the sunshine, although being in the desert it gets mighty chilly in the evenings.

    The hostel does good cheap food so we decided to grab lunch there so we could spend more time topping up our fading tans. The hostel is slightly outside of Huacachina so after lunch we wandered in to check out the oasis. It's so strange that there is a beautiful lake in the middle of absolutely nowhere! It was only a 10 minute walk from the hostel but for 3 soles you could get a tuk tuk back which we did as we really wanted to go in the tuk tuk!

    Later in the afternoon we headed out for a couple of hours of sand buggying and sand boarding. We were picked up in a 10 person sand buggy from our hostel and headed out into the desert. The guy drove us round like a maniac for a bit which was really fun before we stopped to do some sand boarding. This sand boarding was very different to what we had done in Florianopolis. To start with it was way steeper! You also didn't go down standing up. Instead you lay face first on the board before you were pushed over the edge. It was scary! We did this 3 times in 3 different places (well Simon did, I decided I'd had enough excitement after the second one). We then sat on the ridge and watched the sun go down which was pretty magical.

    In the evening we decided to eat at the hostel again as the food is so yummy. We then huddled around the fire pit chatting to a few other people that were also staying in the hostel whilst listening to music. The hostel has the most amazing playlist ever!
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  • Day 2 - Huacachina

    21 juin 2017, Pérou ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    This hostel is so very chilled that there isn't a set time for breakfast, you can just eat whenever you wake up so we didn't set an alarm. For breakfast we had a nice cup of coffee (it was actually tasty) along with some fresh juice, scrambled eggs and some really nice fresh bread rolls (this is a novelty for us as everywhere else we have stayed in Peru they are usually dry).

    After lining our stomachs we headed out on a wine and pisco tour with 4 others we met in the hostel, Adam and Amy from the UK and Alexa and Devyn from the US. The first winery we visited was called Tacama and is apparently the oldest winery in South America. We arrived just after an English speaking tour stared so we had to wait an hour for the next one. This didn't bother us though as there were 2 trampolines in the garden that we could have a bounce on. This amused our taxi driver so much that he filmed us. You may now be able to find us on YouTube under #crazygringos.

    The place was huge and far larger than any of the wineries we visited in Mendoza. It was quite the whistle stop tour however we did get to see lots of the old machinery they used back in the day which was really interesting. The building used to be a monastery so it's also really pretty. After our tour we got to try a red, white and semi sparkling wine as well as some pisco.

    Our next stop was a much smaller winery called El Catador. This involved a very quick tour before we headed to the tasting area. Here we got to try a rose and a red wine which were incredibly sweet and not good at all. We then got to try some pisco, a tangerine pisco and two pisco cremes. Now pisco is pretty disgusting but the tangerine and cremes were delicious (probably because they didn't taste like alcohol).

    We were then meant to visit a third winery but because we had to wait at the first one we ran out of time. We therefore headed back to the hostel for some lunch and sunbathing by the pool.

    In the evening we headed into Ica for some dinner. We were going to head into Huacachina however Lorenzo had warned us that the food wasn't good there and a few people had gotten food poisoning which didn't sound that fun. Lorenzo therefore recommended that we visit a Chinese / Peruvian fusion restaurant which sounded pretty interesting so we decided to give it a try. Alexa and Devyn decided to join us too which was nice. It was good Chinese food but I didn't get any Peruvian fusion which was a shame. Simon also managed to order enough rice to feed a large family.
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  • Paracas

    22 juin 2017, Pérou ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Today was moving day with our bus leaving at 12:10pm so we were in no rush to do anything. We went for breakfast which again was made fresh when we sat up to the bar and it was great scrambled egg, coffee and juice.

    We packed our bags and vacated the room around 10 to sit out and wait to get a taxi.

    Our bus was only an hour or so to Paracas but they still fed us. We had Chinese style rice and chicken (similar vibe to the night before) and chocolate cake for desert. We barely had time to finish lunch and an Inka Cola before we arrived in Paracas. It was a 10 minute walk to the hostel so we didn't bother with a taxi but that didn't stop about 10 beeping their horns at us whilst walking and screaming out the window 'taxi taxi'.

    The hostel was only a stones throw away from the beach so once we had set our bags down in the room we changed into our beach attire and headed out for some sunbathing. It still gets pretty chilly on the coast when the sun goes down so we headed back for a shower before dinner.

    I was craving a nice burger and chips for dinner and luckily the number two restaurant on trip advisor was a burger joint! We ordered food and smoothies which came out in a giant goblet along with giant straw to go with it. It was like a meal on its own!!

    We headed back to the hostel after for some Suits on Netflix and an early night.
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  • Day 2 - Paracas

    23 juin 2017, Pérou ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Just off the coast of Paracas you will find the Islas Ballestas. They are also known as the poor mans Galapagos and as we we couldn't afford it on this trip we were hoping to get our wildlife fix!

    We were picked up from our hostel at 7:45am and headed to the harbour to catch the boat. After around 30 minutes we reached the islands. En route we passed Paracas Candelabra. It is a prehistoric geoglyph and is of mysterious origin. Call me a skeptic but there were some suspicious looking lines surrounding the candelabra that may have explained how it never disappeared! You can't get off the boat as the island is protected but the driver slowly took us around the edges and into the coves whilst the guide explained a bit about the birds and animals. There was also a pretty cool rock formation in one of the coves that looked like a face!

    We saw blue footed boobies, Peruvian terns, sea lions, bright red starfish and 32 legged starfish (I didn't even know there was such a thing!). It was amazing! I can't get over the sheer number of birds there actually were. They were boobies everywhere!

    Because there are so many birds, there's a distinct aroma of guano (more commonly known as bird poop). Apparently researchers clean the island of guano every 8 years as it's a seriously good fertiliser! That must be quite the task as in 2011 they collected 40,000 tons.

    We were also incredibly lucky to see 4 Humboldt penguins. These penguins are pretty small at 45cm and also sadly endangered. Along the coast of Paracas you can also find lots of Pelicans which are fun to watch.

    As the boat trip was only a couple of hours long we had the rest of the day to lounge on the beach which was nice. As the sun started to go down we decided to have a couple of beers on the seafront and watch the sun go down. It's also starting to hit us now that the South American instalment of our adventure is coming to an end which is a little sad.
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  • Lima

    24 juin 2017, Pérou ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today we left Paracas and headed to our final stop on our South American adventure, Lima. It's only around a 3 and a half hour bus journey so another easy one! Our bus wasn't until 1pm so we had a lazy morning and went out for a very naughty breakfast of pancakes and eggs.

    Despite only being a short journey, Cruz del Sur did not fail us and made sure we were fed. The food was even really tasty and for the first time actually hot!

    Now Lima has a bit of a reputation for not being the safest, especially in the Downtown area where all of the bus stations are so we got an uber to our Airbnb apartment. The apartment is in a great location in the Miraflores district which is one of the safest areas in Lima. We are staying with a lovely couple called Corin and Sally.

    Corin recommended that we go to a restaurant called Mangos for dinner which sat on the coast so you got a great view out to sea and of the city. It was beautiful. Unfortunately we couldn't get a table outside but we managed to get one on the cusp so it was good enough. The food was incredible albeit a little on the pricey side but it's our last few days in South America so we thought why not! I had a delicious salmon curry and Simon had mango tuna.

    It's wasn't far to walk back from Mangoes so we decided to walk back stopping off for a heavenly Nutella and pecan crepe on the way. Our walk took us past the El Parque del Amor or Love Park which sits on the cliffs overlooking the ocean where there are some cool statues which are lit up at night.
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  • Day 2 - Lima

    25 juin 2017, Pérou ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We had a lazy morning before venturing to the supermarket (they have real ones in Lima!) to grab some bits for breakfast. The plan was to do a walking tour of Downtown Lima in the morning however it wasn't until we got to the meeting place that we (ok maybe that was my fault) realised they don't go on Sundays - school boy!

    We were right by Kennedy Park which is the famous cat park so we had a mooch around there. The cats are street cats however they are fed and watered and even have there own vet. They are also meant to be incredibly friendly so for those blessed without allergies they are up for cuddles.

    We then headed off in the direction of Huaca Pucllana, some pre Inca ruins. It's very bizarre to find some ruins smack bang in the middle of the city. Before they realised that perhaps they should protect their heritage, the ruins were covered in mud and locals clambered all over them. The city has therefore literally been built up around them. Huaca Pucllana is a pyramid made of adobe but not a pyramid in the Egyptian sense as Huaca Pucllana is not hollow. It served as a ceremonial and administrative centre between the years of 200 and 700 AD. They know it was a ceremonial centre as they found considerable numbers of women's bodies as they were the lucky ones to be sacrificed. They also found a few tombs in which they found mummified remains.

    For lunch we headed to La Lucha, a sandwich place recommended by Sally and Corin. I have never seen Simon Thatcher as happy as when he was tucking into his delicious sandwich. I'd like to say we have a photo but there wasn't any time for that as we devoured it so quickly.

    In the afternoon we went to Museo Larco, a pre Columbia art museum. It was really interesting and it's absolutely amazing how well preserved all of the ceramics are. In the museum there is also a storage room where they keep everything that isn't on display and there are just cabinets on cabinets of the various pottery.

    In the evening the plan was to go and see the nearby fountains which have a light show in the evening which is apparently very impressive however we got chatting to Corin and lost track of the time.
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  • Day 3 - Lima

    26 juin 2017, Pérou ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Sally is Peruvian and runs tours to the local market. We love a market so headed there in the morning. In the market you can get fruits from the 3 main areas of Peru, the mountains, the jungle and the coast. We got to try heaps of different types of fruits which were nice (for me, maybe not so much Simon). They have so many different types of banana here so we got to try the apple banana and a really tiny sweet banana. There was also another fruit which looked like an enormous green bean but inside there was this cotton candy type fruit, delicious. We also visited a herbalist which was quite interesting. In Peru, they use a lot of natural remedies for all of their ailments. You just go to the market, tell them what the problem is and then they give you a bunch of herbs which you take home and make a tea with. Sally and Corin swear by them. We also got to try some local snack of two different corn and a jungle snack made from yukka.

    After our tour we headed back to La Lucha for round two. I seriously need to start eating better when we get to New Zealand (there is no way that will happen in LA). After lunch we did a walking tour of the Barranco district. It's around 15 minutes drive from Miraflores so the tour guide met us in Miraflores and then we had to get a collectivo (mini bus) to Barranco. What an experience that was! The traffic in Lima is bananas! You have 2 lanes but the cars are 4 deep! Fortunately we made it to Barranco without a serious accident and set off on our tour.

    Barranco is the bohemian district of Lima so there is loads of graffiti which is cool. There were great views out over the ocean and lots of pretty buildings. We walked over the bridge of sights on which apparently you have to hold your breath the first time you ever walk over it and make a wish. That's all well and good but the bridge is quite long so I had to do a little jog past some other people towards the end!

    After the tour we braved the bus back to Miraflores. There were no free seats this time so we had to stand which is a challenge in itself. For dinner Sally cooked us some traditional Peruvian food, ... It was similar to a chicken korma but served over potatoes with rice on the side. It was delicious! It was also great to have real home cooked Peruvian food. The recipe was apparently her grandmothers.

    Very full from dinner we selt about packing our bags as our flight to LA is early in the morning.
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